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@@rimmersbryggeri Thanks for your comment 🙂. I'm pretty sure you'd need to take the caliper off to get the disk off. Good luck changing your sensor!

@@GrubbyRabbitRepairs Not the bracket though.

Hi, you have to take the rocker cover off I'm afraid. There's 2 awkward bolts hidden on the back of the engine I think but other than that it's ok. Just follow one of the injector replacement videos here on TH-cam. Good luck 🙂

Hi, I've checked on my XTool D7 and it has Citroen DS4 listed in the Citroen menu so should work fine

It's great to hear that these engines are capable of those mileages 😃. They're worth fixing then and investing in new injectors when they go wrong. Cheap and cheerful motoring really if you can get 200k+ miles out of one, plus only £40 tax and good MPG 🙂

Yes great mpg, I get around 70mpg out of mine. As you say, great little cheap run arounds. It’s a shame the injectors are so expensive. Like you I got myself second hand ones. Touch wood they’ve been ok so far!

Hi, yes I've had 4 VWs because I like them. But I enjoy tinkering with any car really if a friend needs a hand. It's just a hobby.

@@GrubbyRabbitRepairs Great, Are you located in the USA? We need someone to test a VW scanner.

@@eriksony6398 Sorry, I'm in the UK. Good luck finding someone though 🙂

Thanks very much for your comment 🙂. Weird how number 4 injector seems to be more prone to failing. Maybe it's just coincidence. Good luck getting it sorted anyway!

Hi, I'm no expert but I'm wondering if it could be that injector number 4 is not working correctly and is letting too much/too little fuel into the engine and making the car also think that it's got a electronic accelerator control (EAC) fault because it can't control engine fuelling properly. Or there is a chance it is two separate faults. A bit of googling shows EAC faults can be caused by a few things including the accelerator pedal sensor or wiring. Personally I'd go after the injector fault first and see if that gets rid of the EAC issue. You could always just unplug injector number 4 like in this video and see if the EAC fault disappears and you're just left with an injector fault. Where are you located?

@GrubbyRabbitRepairs evening thank you for your reply back to me iam in burnley lands UK 🇬🇧 the car as been like this for 2to3 weeks but I will try that with the wire on the injector were are you please

Hi, I'm pretty far away in south Lincolnshire near Bourne. Look at some other videos on how to take the air box off. It's pretty straightforward but there might be 2 bolts on the back of the air box that you can't really see. You have to undo them by feel really. I can't remember if they were for the air box or the rocker cover underneath. Sorry it's been a while since I did this. Not sure if it's something you fancy doing yourself but I got a used injector off eBay for £60ish and a full set of seals (injectors/rocker cover/leak off pipes) for £15ish off eBay. Buying a used injector is a bit of a gamble I guess, but you can buy reconditioned ones for £130ish. New ones are ridiculous and are £200+ each when I checked! I got a great tip for cleaning the injector seat from another video - get a length of 15mm diameter round wooden rod (dowel I think it's called) from a DIY store, then you can wrap a rag round the end to clean the injector seat, then superglue a round piece of fine wet and dry sandpaper to the end to take off any burrs and smooth the seat. When removing the little clips for the leak off pipes, hold them with pliers because they ping off and get lost! Also make sure you cover the top of the engine with rags once you've taken the rocker cover off because you really don't want to be dropping anything down the oil passage ways! Same with the injector ports once you've taken out an injector.

hi mate i know it says Charlotte but iam the husband please can you let us know what number 4 injector is please from the timing belt or gear box thank you ​@GrubbyRabbitRepairs

@@GrubbyRabbitRepairs sorry about this and being a nuisance thank you stu

Hi, try emailing them with your query at supporting@xtooltech.com. They have good customer service in my experience. When I noticed an issue with the cylinder power balance data reading incorrectly on the car in this video, they issued a software update within a week to fix it.

I added a new key and also had to add the original key. When you start the programming process you need to add all the keys you have for the car as any previous keys will be forgotten I believe.

Hi, glad it helped! Thanks for your comment 🙂

😂 thanks! She scrubbed up ok in the end and passed the annual MOT test 😊

My scan tool didn't have the option to do injector coding on that car. But it runs fine so I'm happy 🙂

@@GrubbyRabbitRepairs the knocking you have at the end I'm trying to figure out where it's coming from for what I have is twice as loud

I'll have to have another listen next time I start her up. I didn't really notice a knocking sound. Let me know if you find out what's causing yours 👍

😁 great! I'm going to stock up on those CR2032 batteries for next time. Luckily I had one in a drawer. Thanks for your comment 🙂

Great tip, thanks for adding this!

No need to remove the fuel filter on this model. I plan to replace it at some point soon though in case that's what caused the injector problem. I'm not sure when it was last done.

Just changed 1 of mine now car won't start. Thought it would if fuel filter was not removed

@@thehutx You've given it lots of squeezes of the priming bulb? It's a pain having no lift pump in the tank 😬

If you're still struggling maybe loosen the fuel pipes to the injectors and squeeze priming bulb until fuel flows from the unions then tighten back up?

No left pipes on it

Hi, my neighbour got the key cut at a local key cutting shop. I think she had to try a couple of shops as some don't cut keys they haven't supplied. I think that's just in case the key is made of harder metal and blunts their cutting bit.

www.transpondery.com/help_guides_instructions.html Also, this website is very helpful for finding out immobiliser chip type and remote frequency etc. One thing that confused me for a while is that some remotes are listed as 433MHz and others are 434MHz but they are actually both the same. I think the frequency is 433.92MHz or something but it's either rounded up or down.

Hi, thanks for this great info! I'll take a look at my door wiring sometime and see if I have the same issues you've had. Everything still works as it should at the moment but nice to know in case locks/windows stop working. I think I'll be running this one as long as I can. My last Golf did 235,000 miles so that's my target. Thanks for your comment 🙂

I think cheap aftermarket keys, the lower price of these capable DIY level scan tools, and TH-cam has made key programming more accessible. I had never thought of doing it before I bought my D7 for DIY car maintenance. Now I'm itching to do more 😁. I've even been looking at cheap DEFU key cutting/duplicating machines for £150ish that are supposed to be pretty good. It's an interesting field. Although I think to be a proper auto locksmith you'd need to spend thousands on equipment, plus the training and getting experience first. I guess dealers have expensive showrooms and all the latest equipment to pay for. Not sure about plumbers though, luckily i haven't needed one yet. I'm sure they're not all bad 🙂. Thanks for your comment!

Thanks! I'm in Lincolnshire, UK. Do you have a code reader to read any fault codes?

@@GrubbyRabbitRepairs am in Shropshire.. a layman in this field of yours.. had it checked was told Injectors and suspected turbo.. so the garage would not repair 🧑‍🔧 and I am trying, looking and learning from people like you so as to learn more and see way forward.. I can’t just scrap it yet.. I strongly feel and believe there’s still life in it with the right diagnosis and eventually getting it fixed.. fingers crossed 🤞.. if Lincolnshire was close I could definitely have made my way.. keep up the good stuff..

@@kondaniphiri1278 Oh yes I think a Toyota could have lots of life left in it. Is it a diesel? If your turbo is accessible you could disconnect the air pipe to the turbo with the engine switched off, then you should be able to put a finger in and see if there is lots of play in the turbo spindle. As for the injectors, read any codes with a code reader. If that doesn't help, as well as the method in this video you could also try a leak off test to see if one injector isn't opening as much as the others. It's a helpful test especially if the engine doesn't fire up so you can't do the 'unplugging' test in this video. You can buy a test kit for £20ish off eBay. Lots of videos on TH-cam how to do it. Good luck!

Thanks! I had it booked in for MOT the other day but I found a hole in the exhaust. So I've patched that with a bit of dodgy welding. Hopefully getting it MOT'd next week. I'll check out the Car Cleaning Guru, thanks! 👍

Hi, yes it worked great! See this video to see it working th-cam.com/video/anQFWPNndhU/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared

Thank you so much, got a Golf GTDi, same corner, same fault, same mechanics, same problem. I'll update when and if I fix it...👍

Ok, well I hope yours comes out easier! Good luck!

Also, mine is an estate/wagon/variant version of the golf mk5. I'm not sure if it is the same on a hatchback

Did mine today, the sensor almost came out using your technique but in the end decided to remove the brake calipers and disc. Turned out the magnetic ring was badly damaged, scored and broken, probably from stray debris. So fitted new sensor and bearing and now all sorted. Thanks again for your video, so helpful👍

It's an XTool D7. I recommend it for the price/capability

Both the original key and the new key started the car after the first programming. The original key remote buttons also also worked fine. It was just the new key remote didn't work because the battery was flat. I ran through the whole process again off camera after changing the battery and both keys worked perfectly for starting the engine and the remote after that. Sorry if the video didn't show it very well. I'd seen a similar video on a different Citroen model beforehand so that gave me the confidence to try it. I don't think I'd have tried otherwise as it wasn't my car and I would have been too scared in case I messed it up! Thanks for your comment 🙂

😂 yes it was a great feeling to hear it running so nice! Victories like that make tinkering with cars so much fun! Makes up for all the frustrations of rusty and broken bolts etc! It was great to save it from the scrap heap 🙂. Thanks very much for your comment and sub!

Thanks very much!

I think I worried too much. I think even if the car didn't like the eBay key then I still would have been fine because I programmed the original key first. It was fun to do and it saved my neighbour some money. Thanks for your comment 🙂

Hi, glad it helped! They are nice seats! Have fun messing around with them 🙂

@@GrubbyRabbitRepairs thank you, i needed to get the back off to disable the airbags so i can try and make the seats work. do you know which wires are the powers wires by any chance? 😅

@@PresidentCamacho2024 Sorry, it wasn't my car so I don't have any info or wiring diagrams for it, and I can't go and look at the car. Maybe post your question on a Range Rover forum? Someone might know 🤞

@@GrubbyRabbitRepairs i'll try that, thanks!

Hi, I can't remember for certain but I think the lights on the button still lit up even when the seat didn't heat up. Good luck getting yours working. Let me know if it's the same fault. Thanks for your comment 🙂

Yes, sorry what I said was unfair to VCDS. No, the D7 can only code limited modules on only a couple of makes of car I believe. I really meant the D7 feels much more user friendly for the DIY mechanic who is unlikely to need to do module programming. For advanced stuff like programming then VCDS for VAG cars would be far superior. Although I have recently used my D7 to program a new key remote and immobiliser chip for a Toyota so was very pleased with that! Thanks very much for your comment 🙂

The universal one was about £50 and the car specific one was about £85. For an old car I didn't really want to spend much on it as it'll be off to the scrap heap soon I think. I quite enjoyed the fuss anyway 😁. Thanks for your comment and the tip about the possible exhaust manifold leak 👍

Thanks very much! Glad you found it helpful 🙂

Hi, i bought this in April 2023 so I assume it's a 2023 model. It's updated online so I don't think it matters what year it was made. I downloaded and installed all the available online updates when I made this video. There is an option for ECU Programming in the Special Functions menu. I think it only works on limited cars though. Check on the XTool website or email their support for details of what cars ECU Programming works on. Thanks for your comment 🙂

Thanks! Good tip! Sorry, I didn't mention that in the video. I had already used that method successfully on a few occasions before this happened. Despite using loads of WD40 each time to try to keep it free it eventually seized up. Hope yours stays loose 🙂

A useful tip for removing the broken sensor!

I know the accelerator pedal position wiring on a TDI runs through that conduit so you definitely could have the same problem of chafed wires. The needle lift sensor is on one of the injectors on a TDI. Not sure where the wiring goes for that

@@GrubbyRabbitRepairs thank u Man but Service shop tell me its Fault of Injection pump Idk What to do Honestly

@@adolg4049 I had the needle lift sensor on my T4 go bad and it caused a hesitation while accelerating. Are they mistaking that for a lack of fuel pressure? Have they read the fault codes? They may have used a fuel pressure gauge and found that the high pressure fuel pump is weak but I'm not sure how it would cause those fault codes. I'm not a mechanic though, it's just a hobby for me.

When I say the accelerator pedal wiring goes through that conduit I mean for a right hand drive van. I'm not sure of the routing on a left hand drive van.

Codes shows only Needle lift sensor implausible signal acelerator pedal position sensor implausible signal I Have A engine like AlH With no throtle body At all but My gas pedal has Sensor and Cable Idk Really WHEN I PRESS FAST ACELERATOR CAR GOES RPM ITSELF 10+ AND STAYS LIKE THAT and no response acelerator after that i turn of i press slow and sometimes Work nice

Hi, on my VW Golf you could see voltage at about 9:21 on the video in the engine module live data. With engine off it should read battery voltage, with engine on it will read alternator voltage. More modern cars would probably have more in depth data showing in one of the modules. I know there is a special function for resetting battery monitor after battery replacement for some cars. Within that battery special function menu there would be a live data button with battery specific data if applicable to your car.

Thanks for your comment! I really enjoy the tinkering and learning. There's lots of great info here on TH-cam. My eyebrows survived intact too so that's a bonus! 😁

Always appreciated, thanks Boyce. :D

Thanks, just received reimbursement of the £95 paid for recalibration of the steering from the MOT garage. Wish I had a D7 scan tool!

Great news! Glad they paid up with no hassle. Would be interesting to plug into a Yaris sometime and see if the D7 could have done what the MOT garage couldn't. I'm betting it could. 🙂

@@GrubbyRabbitRepairs I bet it could do what the MOT garage couldn't. (part of national chain). They told me they had tried and failed to sort out the steering fault with 2 different diagnostic machines. Out of interest do you know if the D7 would be able to programme a new key for a 2015 Yaris? I read somewhere that it can't do some Toyota keys.

@@montyludwig Hi, I'm not sure about the key programming on the 2015 Yaris. I will do some research and let you know 👍

Hi, sorry about the delay. I can confirm that the D7 can definitely do the remote and immobiliser programming on a Toyota Yaris 2013 key. Hope that helps 🙂