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Uh, what time zone at 11:15AM?

Interesting

Great video very impressed. Im starting my new layout soon and you have been a great help thanks.

No Tortoises for me❗

Hi Phil. From what I can see you have a really nice house in a nice area (may I be rude and ask if you have bought or rented?). Only my opinion, of course, but I think a container would be rather unsightly at your current property. Some good stuff is going on with your new track plan. You used your longest loco for the track spacing - I assume you did the same for your coaches. Did you allow for possibly longer coaches in the future?

In the new room you should change the wall color from white to a sky blue. You could start the blue at deck height and go to the ceiling if you think you would need to repaint later. At this point you have an opportunity to create what is called "coved" corners. Cut some plywood corner brackets that are curved facing into the room. Fasten those into the corner from deck height to the ceiling. 3 or 4 in each corner should do. Using hardboard, you soak it in Windex with ammonia D. Then push the hardboard into those corner brackets. Fasten the hardboard to the brackets. Then blend the board to the wall, sand and paint. You just got rid of the harsh corners and the background now blends well with the layout. Just an idea.

Great experiment with the two curves! I think people often forget that steam locos can overhang significantly more than coaches because of where the pony truck is located! I've gone for streamline distances on the straights, but have eased the curves to be slightly further away from each other to more like setrack distances as I'll be running Mk3 coaches, which obviously have a bigger overhang! All the best, Ian.

If you are worried about clearance on curves, simply increase the radius of the outer curve. Regarding the area that used to be taken up by a chimney breast, don't change your track alignment -- simply add in scenery.

I alway wonder who uses to clean the windows from the inside and how he/she is supposed to do that while the layout is in front of the windows.

Are you ever going to use mk4 or 5 rolling stock? Personally, I would just fill the space in for scenery and not alter the track work.

Rather than move the chimney breast track, I would fill in with baseboard and use it for scenery. I have similar restrictions on space and have committed myself to a station layout with platform 1 backing against the wall because I set my minimum radius to 300 mm. I wish I could have left room for the gas works and gas holder! Good to see you back on line again.

With the cost of these loco's and the fact that you will be ever noticing the running issues (or remembering them) I would have returned it. Particularly the fact that the wheels were so dirty and paint missing from one of the loco nuts shows its not new. The massive adjustment on the speed CVs also indicates (to me) that it is a bad runner. Give it back! 🙂

I've the same loco and exactly the same problems with it. I'll try the grease. Worse I've also a Bachman Collector 2MT running like the 4F. A shame that brand new locomotives are running like this out of the box :( . Last but not least I've also bought a new Five MT that has pickup problems. All of these locos have the same current pickup system. I think it's an engineering problem. I apologise for my poor English Thanks for all your reviews

I have the older version of the f4 as well as some std 5 and 4 locos all with this type of tender connections and the have all been a pain. I ended up hard wiring the the tender to the loco a bit like Dapol do and it works great now

Thank you for the video. I have four, maybe five of these turnouts on my layout to modify soon. Big help!

the best unboxing I've ever seen ,keep up the good work mr naive

Nice vid. Congrats! Imho 3rd planit is the best track planning software I ever encountered, especially when it comes to flex drawing and transition curves... Anyhow. Do you know whether Randy from Eldoradosoft is active? No answers on support requests for weeks...

I wonder if a metallic sequin glued on to the underside of the Loco would provide a simpler and more consistant reflective surface ... I'm greatly enjoying the series as I'm considering an N guage layout ... ny very first foray into railway modelling. I have very limited space ... I may not be able to avoid 1st radius curves.

OK, as ever I comment before the video has finished! BTW: Sorry, forgot to wish you a Merry Xmas and a Happy New Year.

Hi Phil. Why didn't you order a replacement for the part on which the bogie pivots when you ordered the motor drives? It would have saved you time and trouble and (probably) would have been inexpensive and you could put it/them in your spares box?

My track gets so bad, I've considered fitting pickups not only to the tender, but to all the carriages as well, with tiny plugs + sockets to connect the rolling stock together.

alu tape works best , do you get troubled with sunlight ? next to it all , do you get the same behavior with a very different (make) train ?

Just got back from work, I think the title for the stream should have been "How to let the magic smoke out!" 🤣🤣🤣. On a serious note sometimes it's just a case of learning from your mistakes. Interesting to see the tortoise pulling 18ma in a stall state but as you intend using an Arduino I suspect you could tell it to send the signal for 4 seconds that way the motor will only get power when it is activated. Not sure what happened to the smaller H-Bridge, like you said it seemed to related to the signal input! maybe it was looking for 3v instead of 5v you will have to try and find the spec sheet for it or the spec sheet for the driver chip to see what info that gives. all the best Tony.

green to black

❣️ Promo_SM

Well done! its quite exciting when that first loop is ready and you can sit back and watch the locos go round and round.

Hi have trying anyrail I find it lot better

Admired your patience. Wish I could have interupted you every now and then on the chat. 😉 Must work out how you put a notification of your next one into the ether.

Missed you live, but enjoyed watching it later

It makes a lot of sense to create the Fiddle Yard first - at least that's the plan for N Quay Harbour. The harbour will be the last thing to be built. It's so good to see you back again. Keep moving forward!

Reservation blocks ahead of a train are set in the Train Route editor. There is an Options tab where the number of reserved blocks is set.

Hi there, Just decided to Subscribe to your channel as I am sure we can help one another. I have N Gauge running iTrain and it is always good to get help from a mate. You remove a loco from the Switchboard display by Shift Clicking on the relevant Block symbol. You remove a loco from a train by entering the Train editor, selecting Composition, highlight the loco and click Remove. You remove a loco from service by entering the Locomotive editor and removing the Tick against the loco. Hope those options answer your question. Kite

Did you find the cork east to bend around those curves.

It's a shame the video doesn't show how/where to attach the wire to the loco? I see the instructions says "between the top brush and the TV suppressor" but would have been good to show this.

To remove a train from the Switchboard, SHIFT-Click on it.

Hi Phil. Nice instructional video. Would you please remind us what the gradient of your incline is?

Good running session.

Great to see your progress

Did you solder the circuit breakers into the fuse poles?

Interesting video, I’ve actually taken my layout apart because the steam engines struggled on a couple of gradients and would only haul up to 4 carriages or a short rake of freight wagons. None of my steam loco’s have traction tyres so I used DCC Concepts power base, which uses magnets to give more grip but this wasn’t really successful either. Hence in the end I took the layout apart so that when I rebuild it without gradients I should be able to run a full rake of coaches and freight wagons. Ian’s N gauge channel recently done some interesting tests with gradients. Interesting video and a good guide to change traction tyres and oh so fiddly in N Gauge!!! Cheers for now, John

I have learnt, from experience, that the harder a locomotive works on layouts with inclines, the quicker performance degrades. Once a year or so I find myself running the speed measurement test again on locomotives that were once working just fine but now tend to be running a lot slower and with less oomph than they used to!

Interesting, had similar issues with a jubilee tender drive and replaced the tyres, I would also check the track is grease free as sometimes loco oil can cause this. Cheers

I think we should start a Graham Farish 8F drag racing with the extra traction! 😂😂😂😎🥶🥶🥶😎

Great video. I found it very interesting but your method can be improved. I hate telling people the obvious, but rather than buy round cable, buy flat. It has the internal wires in the correct order and can be used in the stripping and crimping tool that you have. You can also buy a tester that will work.

Yes

Hi, Its good your getting the main running lines started will be interesting to see how it progresses but I have done this comment because I was on your live stream last night but you have deleted it so will say here on my thoughts do you get better more accurate running when you are not filming or doing live streams if you do it may be that with a lot of your stuff wireless you may be getting inteference from them all which is making iTrains not run well just a thought. Cheers Robert.

Great progress, and some of the finest weights I have seen used!