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The sound on the last part got terrible, microphone problems. So I had to re-generate the voice using AI. And sadly it picked up the app speaking as well and changed it. The app indeed speaks, but in another (Google style) voice like heard in the first part of the video.

Sure you can. But how to reach the mavlink data by internal UDP connection (within the H12 when the Carp Pilot Pro runs on the H12) is kind of a secret that Skydroid never revealed. Two known workarounds: There is a Chinese app developed by HEQ who uses the H12 for their drone. If you install this and run it, then Carp Pilot Pro can do UDP internally. But only for 30 minutes (which probably is the maximum flying time for that HEQ drone, my best guess). The second workaround is to install another bluetooth connection. I personally built in a HC06 internally in the H12. I found 3.3V and GND, and as it turns out the mini jack has the mavlink data available as serial data. Such a modification is not without risk. The way I did it was published in the Carp Pilot Pro User Group on facebook with pictures and description. The H12 screen is bright and clear. The screen size is a bit small to my taste. So I prefer to use the Skydroid T10 and a tablet on a tripod. I also have quite a collection of Android compatible game controllers and just released a video on how to use it and set it up. Especially one of the controllers (Ipega PG-9083s is high quality and can take large tablets - i managed to squeeze in my Galaxy tab 7+ which seems to be the limit).

@@neilgrant706 using wifi GPS offers a way to drive a boat using the radio transmitter but still utilize Carp Pilot Pro abilities for waypoints, depth map creation and so on. The Carp Pilot pro receives data for boat position and direction of travel. But it is no autopilot solution. To use the full autopilot capabilities you need a flight controller (most users select a pixhawk 2.4.8, like the Radiolink Pixhawk, but more than 50 models that work are available). And then you must install the Rover version of the ardupilot firmware on it. As explained in video #2 in the video series for how to build a bait boat. Other autopilot software than ardupilot is not supported.

@@TheCarpPilot thx buddy so can the pixhawk replace the motherboard to do all jobs like power motors open doors lights etc ?

@@neilgrant706 Of course it can. As demoed in the build bait boat video series. I have 5 bait boats using ardupilot. Full autopilot. Controlling hook releases, bait tray trap doors, light with/without dimmer, turning cameras on/off and so on. In the video series, episode 1 explains some basic power principles. In episode 2 the pixhawk is set up. In episode 3 some additional (optional) equipment is talked about. Like I personally prefer to have an easy to access USB socket to be able to upgrade the autopilot in the future. Then some episodes focusing on boat building, config of ESCs and so on. Finalizing the setup in the later episodes and my first test drive for the boat in France (first time ever using it - even got some nice carp).

@@TheCarpPilot thank you again very helpful

@@crappyfpv9980 if another GCS can use it (say Mission Planner or QGC) then yes.

@@crappyfpv9980 make sure to set the serial port you physically connect to to use protocol mavlink1 (if you use the telem1 port then set SERIAL1_PROTOCOL to value 1). If thereafter you can connect with say mission planner then the Carp pilot pro will also be able to connect. Using Bluetooth in your case. Carp pilot pro will ask you to choose an already paired Bluetooth connection. And remember afterwards. If you selected the wrong Bluetooth then I settings select to forget the default device and then you can try again.

Not really sure what settings you are asking for. And anyway it is better to join the Carp Pilot Pro user group on Facebook for detailed questions, TH-cam comments section is not very well fit for such purposes

The motors I built and the ESC I used in the video about building a bait boat: See video 1. In that video I used a spitzt motor. The ESC you can use, but the motor should e of a slightly bigger size. If I remember correctly you need a motor with a 5 mm shank. Maybe join the Carp Pilot Pro user group on Facebook instead. Well above 1000 members with the same interests, they likely have more thoughts on this than I (also a collection of RT4 users there).

Send email to thecarppilot@gmail.com.

The video 1 description says a lot about the parts. For the autopilot and which is the critical purchase you will not go wrong if you buy the Pixhawk and the SE100 GPS from Radiolink. They also have a good documentation for the pixhawk available for download from their website. Visit: radiolink.com.cn/doce/pixdistributors.html For more such questions, TH-cam comments are not very efficient. The Facebook Group "Carp Pilot Pro user group" is better.

Never tested max range. According to spec it is around 5 km. But that is only relevant for drones, boats over water cannot get the same distances. I believe I heard around 800 meters in real life.

@@TheCarpPilot cheers buddy

USB is neither serial1 or serial2 (at least on a regular pixhawk they are labeled TELEM1 and TELEM2), while the USB connection is serial0. Change SERIAL0_PROTOCOL to 1 and try again. If you have a bluetooth adapter connected (not sure which as you do not say anything about it) then there should be no problem if you connect it to the matching sockets for serial1 or serial2. Perhaps check the mateksys documentation to ensure that you have the correct port selected. One tip: At least using Skydroid T10 - if you have already connected using say the PC, make sure to disconnect the originally connected device first. On T10 I have experienced I also needed to restart the transmitter before it accepted another device to connect. TH-cam comments are no good for support. You should consider joining the "Carp Pilot Pro user group" on Facebook (around 1000 members there already, some of which are also very competent on bait boats and autopilots).

The parameters i have uploaded for another video in the series are made for 4.2.3. And I also do 4.2.3 in this video. The settings I add generally should still be correct in the newer versions. But for 4.5.1, the tuning of driving and turning has changed significantly (baptised "SCurve"). Meaning that using my parameters for 4.2.3 (directly from a file) will not work as the tuning performed is no longer a valid tuning. As long as you find the same parameters when you try to set them then they are still valid. As for tuning in 4.5.1 there is a luascript called autotune. This you can upload to the pixhawk and get great help in the tuning efforts (prior to version 4.4, tuning was always a manual task and could be a bit challenging). That is the great news for anyone installing this recent 4.5.1 version.

@@TheCarpPilot this is great, tell me where to find this Luascript Autotune? How to download and configure it?

@@TheCarpPilot Do you have a video on setting up 4.5.1?

@@fishingforfun3294 i never tried 4.5.1, so there is no video made by me. It is more or less the same though. I made a typo. The script is not called autotune, it is called quicktune. I never tried it as the boats are already tuned manually. But if you look here, in the overview of tuning, and scroll a little down you will find a section about quicktune: ardupilot.org/rover/docs/rover-tuning-process.html Follow the documentation. The script must be uploaded to your pixhawk. And then you need to know how to use it. Instructions and downloads are all linked from the page I referred to.

Two options, tried both. No favorite: 1. By cutting out a middle section and keeping the connector: Here you should practice using the cut-off middle section before soldering your result. You must make sure to carefully peel back metal film and plastic film on each end. Then remove protection and solder one wire at a time. And finally reapply the metal and plastic wrapping. I also added a shrink tube with glue outside to protect from moisture. By reapplying all protection in the same order you should keep the shielding and avoid to get a spot in the cable vulnerable for EMI from other electronics in the boat. 2. Here you need some guide. Colors and pins are described in a picture on the facebook Carp Pilot Pro user group. What you do is to desolder the socket from the main board. Then you cut the cable to the desired lenght (allow some extra length so you can correct a mistake by starting over). Remove protection for 4-5 cm of the outer cable, then remove isolation of 0.5 cm and then solder the wires into their respective holes where the socket once was placed. Here you must take great care not to break the red and black wire for the transducer as these are very thin and brittle.

Either cut off the mid section. And then splice the ends together. When doing so great care to recreate the various shielding is needed (peeling back various metal and plastic shielding, then solder each wire, finally put shielding back). I found it useful to practice a bit on the mid section I had cut off. Or, desolder the socket from the board. Cut transducer cable and solder wires directly. Fairly straightforward if you know how to desolder. But note that some wires are thin and makes the job a bit more difficult (in particular the red and black power wire for the transducer). There is a drawing showing how the different wire colors match the pin holes on the board available in the Facebook user group for Carp Pilot Pro.

For the video, a radiolink pixhawk was used. The similar model you usually find (on let's say Ali express) is named as model 2.4.8. This model was great back in 2014-ish. Nowadays regarded entry level. And with the recent ardupilot 4.4 release we saw the first evidence that it has become dated. In 4.4 version you can run a lua script that helps you tune the autopilot. A task that is fairly straight forward to do manually if you carefully follow guides, but still not considered an easy task. Anyway: The pixhawk 2.4.8 does not get this script. It simply does not have the power to run it. So it is a clear indication that it's days are numbered. But seen aside from the tuning help it is a great piece of hardware for bait boats and likely will stay this way for many years to come.

Thank you so much for the fast response. I had one other question, I have a dual motor esc 40x2 40A per motor so to say. With this esc I can drive and steer with just one of the stick. Is a dual esc also fit for autopilot or do I need 2 separate esc’s? Kind regards!

@@benjaminmans4360 i believe you will need two individual ESC. Ardupilot controls one per channel (default ch 1 for left and ch 3 for tight motor). The mixing needed to make one stick control both throttle and steering is handled automatically.

A combination of glues. I have built many boats using Tec7. But it dries a bit slow, and does not hold well until dried. And some more to be aware of as well (see below). Say the vertical attachment of a battery holder to the side of the boat. Using Tec7 it would slowly slide down and thus needs support until glue dries. At the same time it stays formable for longer. And is more forgiving (allows more time) to make a nice looking seal around the edge when gluing upper/lower hull together. And I used Tec7 for that purpose only. One more con with Tec7: I make some thick seals to firmly hold the propeller tube at the hole of the hull. If you use Tec7 for this then you should add the glue in multiple layers. I have found that a thick, one time layer will result in the inner core around the tube never really gets solid. When I rebuilt a boat after a month, and also removed the tubes, the glue around parts of the tube was still soft and sticky. To make stuff stick more instantly (even before drying) and ease the build process there are better glues. Like Bostik Superstick. Name describes its abilities well I think.

If you have a wifi booster on your dragonfly you make yourself a wifi GPS like described in this video. Use the image that fits boats with a wifi echosounder (which your Raymarine Pro5 indeed is): th-cam.com/video/qUOBjbGH55k/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xLk5Qsx-zTdMFA_c The difference with wifi GPS compared to a pixhawk: The pixhawk is an autopilot and thus more convenient as the boat can do more for you, your hands are free to care for rod and reel. That said, implementing a wifi GPS only is way easier, faster and less expensive to implement. But you do need to use the remote transmitter. Like in this video: th-cam.com/video/Cw0Qb1wEThE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9sEzTXenE938RYUO In the last video I demonstrate using a boat with a Raymarine Pro 5 built in. So this is exactly what to expect.

Did you activate the premium ability to use wifi echosounder and also select Raymarine as option among echosounder choices? You should really join the Carp Pilot Pro user group on Facebook, TH-cam Video comments is not a good way to ask for support...

@@TheCarpPilot yes, I have the premium version and can choose Raymarine at fish finders, but it doesn't work. I will join the Facebook group

Yes you can

The video is a bit dated. Since then the app is updated, start boat and remote and connect the app. Then, when you select a button and go into settings then move your stick or your switch to max on and max off. And then the app will recognize the channel and it's max/min values. When I developed this part it was with the RT4 in mind as this was also the boat I had at that time. Carplounge uses small micro controllers with their own branded sticker, but the controllers are regular PS4AT. Short up or down then on and off. Long hold (more than 0.8 sec) the other function. Also these controllers, or rather what they control, do not tolerate to long in their on position. In particular, letting the hook releases be on for a prolonged time (like 30+ sec) and the item tends to get destroyed along with the micro controller. Afterwards everything tends to be total disaster (items must be replaced). There should be no problem to use rc1 as long as this channel is not used for either steering or throttle. The app does not use rc16 so I cannot say why this should be an issue. Make sure the setting for servo1_function is not 0. I personally set them to 1 in order to let the rc pass thru. This is also a good setting for servo buttons. To support short vs long press then make multiple buttons and make them momentary. Set short momentary hold period, like 0.5 sec max for short press and 1.5 sec for long press to match. All answers above assume you do not have a boat with an APM autopilot. This is old and outdated hardware and cannot support dual use of transmitter and app (and a lot of other stuff APM also does not support). You should join the Carp pilot pro user group on Facebook. Much better place to get help than in TH-cam comments.

I bought it together with the hull as a kit. It came tith all the right lengths and connectors to fit the boat. Not easy to build something like that for any boat...

At the moment this zoom runs at app start to home you in where you most likely sit down to enjoy the hobby: Where you are, or where the mission/boat is when connected. And right now there is no setting made available to disable that. Such a setting can obviously be made. To quickly find another area you may of course already now use two-fingers on map to zoom in/out. Use the map search function to find whatever you want. Or select any depth map you made and instantly have the app zoom in on that. If I should make such an option to disable map zoom - what should Google Maps then look at? Europe at a given altitude, some km up in the air? Google maps actualy needs to look at "something"... If you have ideas for improvement you are welcome to joint the Carp Pilot Pro suppport group on Facebook. TH-cam video comments are not a good "forum" to discuss ideas for app changes.

The app is designed to use autopilot. But in 2022 we also extended it so you can get by with just using a GPS. And this video shows how to make such a wifi GPS in order to use the app. You should look at the 2023 video as it includes more detailed information, including how to properly clean the ESP in case it came with some software when you bought it or if you made a mistake and need to flash it again. The Carp Pilot Pro app is low cost (approx 5 Euro), this you need to pay to use this app. Obviously. Considering what you get to support your bait boat use it is a steal.

In the video series I used this (and also used the same some years back with a Deeper): www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006292467945.html

The depth map is formatted as a KMZ and can be used directly in Google Earh (as an example). Just use the built in file manager and share the file by (as an example) email to use it other places than within the app

Ardurover only. Just flash the pixhawk with rover and you are good to go. See video about setting up the autopilot in the build bait boat series.

@@TheCarpPilot I heard on the forums that the application is compatible, but the posts on the forums are from several years ago. Could something have changed? In my boat I have an APM arducopter operated from a remote control and I am looking for an application to operate the boat from a tablet. Tower Beta was used in the past and after problems with the application, some people switched to carppilot and wrote that the application is more efficient. Is there a possibility that the app is unknowingly still compatible?

@@Myskiii the remake from Tower was the app "Carp pilot" that got discontinued years back. The Carp Pilot app is a totally different app, you cannot compare anything (really, nothing is the same). And it is Rover only. And there is only one relevant forum, found in the Facebook private user group for Carp Pilot Pro users. I can guarantee you that copter firmware is useless in the Carp Pilot Pro app. It also does not belong in a boat, a boat is a rover. If you ever consider to use Carp Pilot Pro you must first install the rover firmware on your pixhawk. If not the Carp Pilot Pro is not for you.

These are custom made by DH Concepts ((even include ball bearings) and are typically supplied with the hull if you buy a hull from them.

The problem you face is a limitation in the APM. While the APM is good at general purpose navigation, it is a very old autopilot hardware and is also no longer regarded as supported by ArduPilot. In most cases it works, but the APM abilities are limited. APM uses a software from 2015. And the problem you experience was fixed in a version the year after. If you look at the "manual" available to dowmload from the menu in Carp Pilot Pro you will find a chapter with additional features the APM is not able to support.

Thank you for your answer. I just wanted to confirm this@@TheCarpPilot

Sorry, that is sadly not my STL file to share.

Not my design, I am not allowed to share it. Sorry.

You either cut the cable in the middle and remove the mid section. Taking great care when putting it together that ALL isolation (plastic and metal films) are intact after soldering. Or you cut the cable short, desolder the socket from the raymarine board and then solder in the ends of the cable straight in.

@TheCarpPilot brilliant thanks for the Reply , I've managed to get hold of the Raymarine dragonfly pro 5 I'm going fit it to a basic RT7 I won on a competition and your video has been brilliant

You can find it on thingiverse... www.thingiverse.com/thing:5576294

@@TheCarpPilot Thank you !!!

No PDB. The ESC get the raw power from the batteries (you need to chose an ESC that is compatible with the battery voltage). And for the servo side, the power is provided by a BEC from one of the ESC. I think the description in the video and in the drawing is pretty accurate.

How would you do it?

It is a spitz motor (brushless). The specs are visible in the table in the first video (around 1 minute in). Spitz C3242-06 (5mm shank, 1000 pwm, 50 A). For this small bait thrower the motor is totally overkill (it is small but very powerful). I tuned it down to reach max 1650 PWM. And when running it from the app (servo button) I set it to "momentary" with only 1 sec running time. The basket is empty before that second has passed.

@@TheCarpPilot Here, we have some modules for the bait thrower motors, to start slow and then rev, not full power from the start. I liked your motor because of it's dimmensions, I think I will try to find one similar. Thanks for the info.

Generally speaking: Not that much. But the regular pixhawk (2.4.8) is slowly moving in the end-of-life direction. One sample is the quick tune script that became available in the 4.4 release of ardurover recently. The good old pixhawk does not have capability to run it. No autopilot with the similar CPU can. But newer and more expensive with H7 CPU handles it perfectly. If you want to add Lua scripts to the autopilot then the good old pixhawk is limited wrt how much storage for scripts it can handle. But: If you are happy with your boat now then I really cannot see the value with such an upgrade.

I normally use Tec7. Especially for sealing the boat as it dries slower and makes it possible to use Tec7 cleaner and make the seal look pretty. For mounting stuff inside the slow drying of Tec7 is however no advantage. Bostic Supergrip is then a better alternative as components stick to where glued (does not glide away) even before the glue dries.

Thanks for the quick reply, just jumping on to eBay now to order some, many thanks and I loved the videos. Dan @@TheCarpPilot

You connect the other way around: By adding in a serial to wifi (UDP) adapter you can link the telemetry of the pixhawk with the Raymarine sonar wifi. Then, when you connect your Android device to the Raymarine wifi you simply start Carp Pilot Pro and select UDP as connection option. And that is it. In the build bait boat series episode 3 such an adapter was used by me for backup telemetry solution. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004552935510.html Select a variant for PIX, with UDP and without external antenna (you do not need that as the adapter is inside the boat close to the raymarine). When you plug it into say telem1 or telem2 port of the pixhawk it gets powered on. Use mobile, connect to the access point and enter address 192.168.4.1 in a browser. Then configure wifi to "station mode". With the raymarine powered on you can select that as the adapters access point. Save and reboot. Note: The image delivered with this adapter cannot handle SSID of wifi longer than 16 characters. If you did not alter the SSID of your raymarine you will need an updated image and upgrade it. Info in the user forum linked below. More info among posts for users in the facebook forum for Carp Pilot Pro: facebook.com/groups/1190394528531465

The Raymarine (WI-FISH) has enough wi-fi range or do I need some kind of wi-fi amplifier, if an amplifier is needed, can you recommend one? Thanks and HAPPY NEW YEAR, @@TheCarpPilot!

Adding a wifi AP in the boat also require you to add some kind of booster or add in wifi router in boat and on shore as the regular serial to wifi adapter does not have signal strength to reach very far. If you are pleased with the performance of your 433 radios then stick with them. Now, some don't like to have to plug the 433 radio in by cable. And build a box on shore which holds the radio, a hc05 or hc06 Bluetooth serial adapter and a rechargeable battery. Maybe even a tablet holder attached to the box as well and fix the box to a camera tripod. A fairly clean setup doing exactly what it should.

@@TheCarpPilot Can I use your app with the 433mhz telemetry sistem? I really like your app and I purchased it, but I don't know how to connect my boat to the app, that is why I asked about the Wi-Fi telemetry wich I saw you used in your videos.

@@CosminFrinculescu Bluetooth, USB and wifi UDP/TCP are supported. 433mhz radios is usually connected using USB cable and works well.

@@TheCarpPilot Thanks. I will give it a try with 433 mhz and then I will see.

To put in a GPS only then the 2023 Video about Wifi GPS should bring you from A to O. This is really straightforward. Being simple it also comes with the limitation of still having to use the remote transmitter to drive the boat. While the video you reference is video 8 out of 9 in a series to bring you A to O by adding an autopilot instead. There is no "programming" involved. But you do need to install the proper firmware and to set some values. And this is all covered in video number 2. Now, obviously, adding an autopilot into a boat already built is a slightly other project than building it from scratch. But the autopilot part is still the same. Challenge is to figure out what wires to use once the boat is opened. But in your case, the Viper is likely straightforward to convert as it does not come with another autopilot onboard. It may come with a proprietary circuit board instead of standard components you need to figure out. Nice project to start now in the winter (our waters now covered with 50+ cm thick ice). And yes, there is a Facebook support forum with a fair number of participants. Some highly skilled. Just search Facebook for Carp pilot pro and request to join and we will let you in 🙂

That's fantastic thanks for getting back to me. Just a couple of questions regarding programming the ESP8266. In another video it says download the following:- 1) ESP8266 flasher 2) NodeMCU downloader 3) Desired image to download Have you got a couple of links to the website so I can download the correct files. I've erase flashed the new ESP8266 just incase it had some programming on there so I'm ready to program it now.

The boat has two motors, no rudder. It steers like a tank (the term is called "skid steering"): More thrust on one side makes the boat turn. The remote transmitter I chose to buy for this boat build (Skydroid T10) does not have a built in mixer. But that does not matter when used with the autopilot. I cabled left motor to ch 1, right motor to ch 3 on the pixhawk. And then, in the pixhawk setup (check out video number 2) I set ch 1 as throttle left and ch 3 as throttle right. On my remote transmitter, ch 1 and ch 3 I set up for the right stick (I prefer to have it on the right side, some would prefer to have gas and steering on the left side and then needs to adjust that accordingly). And that's all there is to it. Ardupilot (the autopilot) will, when I drive manually, mix the channels and everything works and I can drive and steer using a single stick.

I have previously built this model 3 times using a Deeper. Wanted to standardize on Raymarine now as I have that also in my larger boats. Also never got the Deeper 100 % right: Could not build out the battery and power it separately without seeing that 1% remaining warning after a while. And hate to remember to charge it should I leave the battery inside. So Raymarine was chosen 🙂

Per wifi likely not (assume it does not have it). Per cable I am not sure, do not expect it to. Some more recent models for sure. The HDS I think by wifi. But also for other models like Elite TI and Hook they have an optional power cable that has cabled NMEA-0183. With NMEA data per cable and some efforts (and maybe a R4122 to TTL adapter) it MAY be possible. If you have a pixhawk then the ArduPilot wiki has descriptions on how to pass the NMEA data (limited to depth and temperature) into a serial port, and Carp Pilot Pro is prepared to get and use the depth communicated as part of the mavlink data for mapping. Here I found such a cable, I notice there are blue and red variants of the plug, for people with more knowledge than me these colors probably makes perfect sense. Anyway, a sure way to get the data using Pixhawk: www.sailrace.com/lowrance-power/nmea-0183-cable-hds/ti/elite/hook/

Not an easy question to answer. But the TH-cam boat is small (44 cm, 4.5 kg with batteries and thrower). I just mounted motors in a bigger boat (60 cm and more heavy) and put in Propdrive V2 3536 910 KV into it. The KV value is a bit high for boats. Better to find one with like 500 KV, better for boats. The thrower motor is insane. I had to tune it down to 1650 max PWM output and do it momentary for only 1 second. It ran so fast that the basket widened on the top and I was afraid it may cut my antenna in half.

In this case the remote transmitter (that carries the telemetry) and the Raymarine wifi both 2.4 GHz. And they will then interfere. In addition, the water will limit the possible distance you can hope to achieve (the distances possible for a drone up in the air cannot be compared to a boat with its antenna heights measured only in a few centimeters above water level). Some transmitters are nototious in this regard. Like the trusty old Flysky I6X (although this has no telemetry support, for comparison this is transmitter is known to significantly interfere and limit the achievable distance for the Raymarine). Now, it is possible to play around with the channel used by the Raymarine wifi before altering it (the screen head unit must be used) as not all channels will be impacted equally). Not all transmitters are equal, so such testing may pay off before gluing the Raymarine in. Then, for reference, I did some range testing with this boat. And for safety reasons I activated the failsafe for GCS, and made sure the failsafe action was RTL (if the Carp Pilot Pro lost communication with the autopilot, the boats returns back home - I did not want to swim out to rescue it). I put out a marker 600 meters away. Then touched it to trigger the boat to drive to it an stop. And then watched what happened with Carp Pilot Pro and Raymarine's wifish app in split screen. Making several tests: I found that, using Skydroid radio for telemetry, the Raymarine app lost the echo sounder at approx 430 meters. For this testing I then drowe back home until the Wifish app once again worked. After being satisfied with this test I tested my secondary telemetry, the wifi UDP adapter that sends its data through the Raymarine wifi. Powered off my SKydroid, and connected using UDP. And retested. This time I typically got until 390 meters (397 being the best result), and then the GCS failsafe kicked in and returned my boat before the wifish app would freeze up. To summarize: For me, distances of around 400 meters is fully satisfying. I never fish further away. I never really tested the max telemetry distance with Skydroid. But what I hear from others is that at least 600 m is achievable in combo with the Raymarine. Now, would the Raymarine distance be better if I have also removed the Skydroing receiver in the boat? Probably. At least such effects I have personally witnessed with an older boat I have with the said Flysky. And could you get a similar effect if you use transmitter with say 868MHz instead of 2.4 GHz? Most likely.

@@TheCarpPilot Thank you for the comprehensive reply , best regards

@@TheCarpPilot Hi , I have the Raymarine installed as you have in the hull combined with the Skydroid controller and Carp pilot pro app/Raymarine Wi-Fish installed . I have a Wi-Fi booster in the boat same as yours but it is NOT connected via a sma cable to the circuit board. I am losing readings at about 80metres from the Raymarine , does this mean I definitely have to connect the Wi-Fi via a cable to the Raymarine unit ? I know how to do it by moving the resistor on the Wi-Fi board and soldering a mini sma connector in but is it totally necessary as I only need 180 metres ? The Raymarine is also running very slow on the scroll screen , Many thanks in advance

@@Blupa. That Booster takes an input signal and enhances it. The only way it can do that is by sitting between the "router" (in our case that is the Raymarine) and the antenna. It has two antenna connectors. One for the router (your Raymarine) and one for the antenna. And it only works with those physical connections. To use this booster there is no way you cannot first modify that Raymarine. Not explained in the video... This is Kot the ONLY way to increase the raymarine distance. You can also implement a router inside the boat. In bridge (not Extender) mode. One router that works is the Vonets VAP11S. Please do not als me how to. Because I never did. But there are Videos out there showing how to. I believe with a Deeper. But the principle is the same. And... You can have another router (also Vonets) on shore. And link everything up with two routers. And likely see 500 meters as a result. Still want to use that booster then do that soldering. Don't know how to, find someone that can help. Soldering too difficult (yes, you can damage that Raymarine for sure) the try the router way. Best of luck.

You should look up the Carp Pilot Pro User group on Facebook. It is private, but just ask to join. The community is growing and there are many who have insight and can help.

Linked into description of video 7