Boat build part 6 - Lower hull, installing components
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- This is the sixth video in a series on how to build a bait boat.
The process of adding the components in the bottom hull goes fairly fast. Provided you have a clear idea of where to put all components. I highly recommend to tape the components to the hull where you THINK you will mount them. And then put the boat into a tray filled with water. And focus on getting your boat looking good, ie: Floating fairly straight seen from behind and seen from the side. Move those components around until you are satisfied. Then take a picture. And then just work your way thorugh. On larger boats this is usually easier. My boat is tiny (44 cm long), and some atttention to detail is needed. Sideways: It is OK if the nose is a bit lower than the behind. When you drive the boat it will dig down behind and compensate for it. Also that depends on the hull, and even the angle of the propeller shanks. In this small hull I do not have a lot of playroom.
As you will see in this video I am a big fan of attaching a lot of components using 3M DualLock velcro. Provided you clean parts and hull before attaching this velcro, it's ablity to hold parts fixed is truly amazing. And, compared to using glue, it is actually possible to remove the velcro if you placed a part in a bad place. For us hobby builders, not really knowing the good positions of all of these parts, this is really helpful. This velcro is also hook-to-hook (not hook to pillow): When you click in (that's right, fixing makes a click), the parts can be regarded as semi-permanent fixed. I totally adore it. It is far more expensive than using that tube og glue, obviously. So the choice is up to you.
The process to mount all of these parts is, as said, fairly fast. And i also fast forward on most of the process. I have tried to focus on some of the details to get right. And hope that I did not miss out on anything important.
When the process shown is completed, then not only are your bottom hull completed. You have also tested the radio and all of the functions we implement. The bottom hull is then totally finished. Although I will stress some of the finer details in the video when we glue it together (like shortening that servo steel pullrod under the baittray) and some other minor detail in a later video. Anyway: Follow this advice and all in all, the upper and the bottom hull is now more or less ready to be glued together.
Videos planned to follow up after this introduction:
Part 1: Introduction and overview
Part 2: Preparing a pixhawk before we put it into the boat
Part 3: Walkthrough of the additional components bought and printed
Part 4: Building the upper hull (from parts to complete)
Part 5: Preparng the lower hull
Part 6: [ this video ]
Part 7: Finalizing boat configuration
Part 8: Combining upper and lower hulls and gluing
Part 9: Settings in Carp Pilot Pro to fully support all boat features
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Another good comprehensive video. Well done
great video 👌 I imagine the hours spent to make a video. A lot of patience 👏👏👏
I spend more time making the video than building the boat... 😅This mounting of parts is actually a fairly fast job, far less demanding than fitting in the transducer and the motors. And besides the placement of the hole for the servo pullrod, the level of precision is far less important as well (millimeters are not really important when you glue in that battery holder, as an example)
Very nice job and vidéo, your boat is so beautifull
Nice job .
Extremely well build with great attention to the detail, congratulations. I want to ask why in this build you give up Deeper sonar and disaided to use different brand?
I have previously built this model 3 times using a Deeper. Wanted to standardize on Raymarine now as I have that also in my larger boats. Also never got the Deeper 100 % right: Could not build out the battery and power it separately without seeing that 1% remaining warning after a while. And hate to remember to charge it should I leave the battery inside. So Raymarine was chosen 🙂
Hi, excellent video, there was just one bit i was looking forward to seeing, which was how you shortened the Raymarine transducer cable, could you possibly explain how you did that?
Either cut off the mid section. And then splice the ends together. When doing so great care to recreate the various shielding is needed (peeling back various metal and plastic shielding, then solder each wire, finally put shielding back). I found it useful to practice a bit on the mid section I had cut off.
Or, desolder the socket from the board. Cut transducer cable and solder wires directly. Fairly straightforward if you know how to desolder. But note that some wires are thin and makes the job a bit more difficult (in particular the red and black power wire for the transducer). There is a drawing showing how the different wire colors match the pin holes on the board available in the Facebook user group for Carp Pilot Pro.
Good afternoon. Can you show a detailed diagram of connecting the T10 receiver to the pixhok 4 mini. And connecting all the elements to the pixhok 4 mini. You connected the GPS to the telemetry port, and where is the Wi-Fi adapter? And how did you connect the usb. Sorry for the many questions, this is the first boat assembly, I'm just learning everything.
Boat is glued. But I can explain using this 2xcellent guide. Just after header "pinout" there are pictures with numbers. That's rather precice also:
Servos: Connected to the area #11 according to my channel selection.
GPS: This was non standard connected to #5 (can) as my M10 L4 3100 GPS is a CAN GPS. If you buy let's say the very good M9n from holybro (made for this auropilot) it instead goes into #6 (GPS)
T10 Radio: Connected to #8 (ppm). You would think it should go into RC IN, intuitively. Almost made a cable for it as well. But that's incorrect, as you understand by reading everything.
T10 telemetry: Connected to #3 (telem1)
UDP wifi adapter: Connected to #2 (telem2)
USB: this was connected to #13 (usb)
Matching power module goes into #1 (power)
Please note that I only used this pixhawk4 mini because I already had it. It was more expensive than a regular 2.4.8 pixhawk, and honestly I do not think it is much better. But I had it. It was small. And the boat was small...
The guide i refer to you find here, read it and get the shoulders down 😉
ardupilot.org/copter/docs/common-holybro-ph4mini.html
hello, great build, what glue do you use please?
A combination of glues. I have built many boats using Tec7. But it dries a bit slow, and does not hold well until dried. And some more to be aware of as well (see below).
Say the vertical attachment of a battery holder to the side of the boat. Using Tec7 it would slowly slide down and thus needs support until glue dries. At the same time it stays formable for longer. And is more forgiving (allows more time) to make a nice looking seal around the edge when gluing upper/lower hull together. And I used Tec7 for that purpose only.
One more con with Tec7: I make some thick seals to firmly hold the propeller tube at the hole of the hull. If you use Tec7 for this then you should add the glue in multiple layers. I have found that a thick, one time layer will result in the inner core around the tube never really gets solid. When I rebuilt a boat after a month, and also removed the tubes, the glue around parts of the tube was still soft and sticky.
To make stuff stick more instantly (even before drying) and ease the build process there are better glues. Like Bostik Superstick. Name describes its abilities well I think.
Very good work. The video is informative. I just didn't understand where the WIFI module and USB are connected. In your video posted 8 months ago, you connected the GPS and the compass with each other with a signal. Is the principle the same here?
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You can check out the video part 2 about preparing the autopilot. Around 6:30 I connect the GPS/compass into a regular Pixhawk 2.4.8. In part 6 I instead installed a Pixhawk4 mini and used a GPS/compass unit that communicates by CAN protocol (simplifying the cabling with a 4-wire connection only). As most of you use the 2.4.8 model I "skipped over" these details here, trying not to make things to complicated. If you do buy a Matesys M10 L4 3100 then the CAN cable comes with. I can tell you how to connect it to a regular 2.4.8 pixhawk if needed.
For the USB module this is explained in part 3 around 1:00 out. As the USB module has two cables, one goes to the USB socket and the second in I2C. I use a small 5 port I2C parallel board as the GPS module already occupies the I2C socket.
And the additional wifi adapter is also explained there (in this video part I use dual telemetry adapters, one for Skydroid radio receiver and one UDP wifi adapter in TELEM1 and TELEM2 respectively).
Do you turn the boat using engines (right, left)? How to organize a turn (steering wheel) if I have one motor and a servo on the steering wheel? Thanks for the answer?
If the boat had 2 motors and no rudder then it drives exactly like a tank: More power on one motor turns it. This is called "skid steering", while motor and rudder is exactly that.
When you set up the ArduRover (the software we install in the pixhawk) then the default settings are:
- Motor and rudder
- Channel 1 is steering (aka rudder on ch 1)
- Channel 3 is throttle (aka motor on ch 3)
If however you have two motors then you set:
- motor left to ch 1 and
- motor right to ch 3.
And, please note, that ch 1 is still regarded as "steering" and ch 3 is still regarded as "throttle" when ArduRover mixes the challens for you.
If I understood you correctly then you have 1 motor, 1 rudder and a "car remote" with a wheel. Then plug that servo for the rudder in autopilot servo ch 1 and motor in autopilot servo ch 3. And use the default setup for the autopilot (no changes for these two channels, this is the default setup)
Hello. Is it worth switching from pixhawk 2.4.8 to pixhawk 4. Is there any difference between them?
Generally speaking: Not that much. But the regular pixhawk (2.4.8) is slowly moving in the end-of-life direction. One sample is the quick tune script that became available in the 4.4 release of ardurover recently. The good old pixhawk does not have capability to run it. No autopilot with the similar CPU can. But newer and more expensive with H7 CPU handles it perfectly. If you want to add Lua scripts to the autopilot then the good old pixhawk is limited wrt how much storage for scripts it can handle.
But: If you are happy with your boat now then I really cannot see the value with such an upgrade.
Hello, I cannot connect the Raymarine 7 Pro to the Carp Pilot Pro app? I connect my boat via Bluetooth from the T10 controller and the Raymarine via WiFi to my tablet. I can make them work side by side, but to make 3D maps I have to get the depth of the Raymarine in the Carp Pilot Pro app. what settings do I need to adjust to make it work?
Did you activate the premium ability to use wifi echosounder and also select Raymarine as option among echosounder choices? You should really join the Carp Pilot Pro user group on Facebook, TH-cam Video comments is not a good way to ask for support...
@@TheCarpPilot yes, I have the premium version and can choose Raymarine at fish finders, but it doesn't work. I will join the Facebook group
Hi. Apologies for keep on asking questions, but, If I fit a deeper chirp+, will I get interference from the Skydriod, or would it be easier to use Flysky 5.8ghz receiver and transmitter.
The Deeper you cannot really configure, so it is locked in 2.4 GHz wifi channel 1. One boat where I used Deeper in combo with a booster I noticed that the range was great, but when I turned the boat at around 200m distance then somehow the connection was lost. Might be caused by the two 2.4 GHz transmissions crossing each other during the turn. I also had to drive back to around 160 meters before I regained the Deeper's wifi connection. Which did not make a lot of sense since the Deeper's antenna was anyway placed in the front. I cannot really say why it happened. But generally, if you have an option to use different wifi bands so they do not have to compete then in theory that is always better. Using other fishfinders that offers a way to alter the channel will make it possible to reduce the problem, obviously.
@@TheCarpPilot ☝☝ Thanks for your input.
Hi Again. Do you have a diagram for the wiring of Skydriod telemetry cable to Pixhawk ?? and what size JST plug ?
If you use the regular pixhawk 2.4.8 (like the ones I showed in video # 2) then you do not need to worry. The T10 comes with the needed wire in the box.
About this 4 wire cable: On the radio receiver end this wire has two dupont 3-port plugs (regular servo cable plugs): The one with 3 wires you plug in all to the right with the white wire facing down, and the second plug only has the 5V red wire (in the middle as always) that you usually plug in next to it. On the other end of that wire there is already a standard 6 port DF13 connector in place that snaps directly into that pixhawk telemetry port - exactly as I showed it in video #2. Then it works straight away.
If you however need to replace that DF13 connector with some other connector, like I had to since my pixhawk4 mini uses JST-GH connectors, then:
1: RED-5V, 2: TX, 3: RX, 4:none, 5: none, 6:GND.
The pinout is by the way exactly the same on the DF13 connector. You will find all that needed information (how the different ports are pinned) on the ArduPilot wiki, at least for the most popular autopilots. And if not then the company making them usually has good documentation, like Mateksys that offers a lot of pictures and drawings for all of their ArduPilot compatible autopilots.
@@TheCarpPilot Hi. Thanks for replying, The T10 receiver I have has 1x6 pin DuPont plug with cable coming out of receiver, labelled from the top: Gnd=black: 5v=red: RX2=white: Tx2=yellow: Gnd=black; Sbus=yellow. going to 2x 3 port DuPont plugs. 1 plug has Gnd; RX2; Tx2. the other has:5v; Gnd; Sbus. The package I have, does not have any DF13 plugs.I will try to upload photo of receiver and cabling. I shall have a look on the wiki as you suggest. Many thanks.
@@stuartgriffiths4299 Ah, OK. Then likely you got the more high end Rx model (Multilink v1.0, I have one that came with a Skydroid H12). When I tested it myself I made a pixhawk serial cable (I have a kit with pre-crimped wires and Df13 in all sizes) and a servo connector like this: On the Rx end the 6-pin DuPont you mentioned. Then I made two connectors for the pixhawk like this:
Pixhawk serial: 1: none, 2: white, 3: yellow, 4: none, 5: none, 6: GND (aka: A serial missing the red 5V, using GND, RX2 and TX2)
Servo connector: Using 5V, GND and SBUS (and here the SBUS goes to Pixhawk signal side, the other two are GND and 5V)
Note that this way the Skydroid receiver's Rx goes to the Pixhawk Tx, and Pixhawk Rx to the receiver's Tx. As it should be!
Then the serial plug goes into (usually) TELEM1 and the servo cable into RC IN on the pixhawk.
Such questions are far more easier to answer in the Carp Pilot Pro facebook user group (sharing pictures and so on is so much easier). Search it up and apply for membership :-)
Is the case for Raymarine 3D printed? share the stl file. Thank you!
You can find it on thingiverse...
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5576294
@@TheCarpPilot Thank you !!!