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I’m not sure what you’re saying exactly. If this isn’t what you want, I hope it steered you away from spending money on it. For my needs I’m still pretty happy with it but it very much depends on what you are trying to accomplish vs how you want it to look and then of course what you want to pay…. Good luck.

The noise and shake was the issue. Mostly noise.

After using for a year, I like it even more. Would like a better spring option. At sole point I’ll upgrade it.

I can’t remember. I went to AutoZone and said give me what I need…

Fair point on the bolts. Wasn't much option there unless I bought different ones. The top rails are actually perfectly level across all 4 rails which may not be apparent but the 'non-level' sides of the trucks bed does throw off the visual for the rears. In person I don't find it that bad but frankly, this is my daily work horse so I'm less concerned than say my weekend sports cars. Functionally, it works great but I certainly understand your perspective. The truck in an of itself is 'unique'. A Ford Maverick would be a bit more standard.

@@MikeNSX I wonder if there are t-bolts that might fit better. It just seems like not enough to grab onto with those button heads.

@@SkylerinAmarilloI’m sure there are options. I was a bit annoyed getting this to work but I was also executing on the cheap…

I’m using without the bridge so unable to comment.

I still haven’t put a single one on. I need to get to that…

No response as to the fault just that it needed to be replaced.

Mine have lasted about that long. So far I haven’t run across better options. IMO, long term we need a change to have the lock on the wall side so you could run power to it. Or sole other option to run power through the door. Batteries don’t cut it.

Yes. The key point was that the lock would not lock or unlock. The fact that it “auto-unlocked” validated that it wasn’t mechanically broken, it was an electronic problem.

Yes. A number of times.

I never did. I suspect the air is sourced from and area that happens to be hot.

50 hrs in and basically no issues. I need to start getting my attachments installed…

@@MikeNSX Awesome! Love to hear this!

IMO, if the car is running ok, I would wait on changing the plugs. If it's not running ok, change the plugs but try to get to the seal as soon as you can. I don't think the oil creates too much of a problem to the plugs or ignition unless it's a lot getting up to the wire height. So frankly, if you are really on a budget (be that time or money...) you can probably just suck the oil out and see how long it takes for it to come back. It could be a very slow leak and make it a year between cleaning it out.

Glad it seems to work for you. I need to get my 3D printer going to have a real kit. Been busy though. Good luck.

Do you have a specific product to recommend? Maybe a link?

I don’t even use the WiFi so it’s more than that.

I think I lost about 2 MPG but I had the factory rails on since new which also had an impact. I run about 22 MPG highway which isn’t great but fine for me. I live very close to work now, less than 10miles per year.

@@MikeNSX Appreciate your quick feedback! Not bad at all

What was booked in the order was the cost so free shipping from that perspective. I had a small issue honestly and I can stated that they have been very responsive in every instance. I’m very pleased with the purchase. I jumped a track in the past few days and they helped me solve. Good company coming up on 1 year of ownership.

I have them both working now. I think the new/updated App helped. It seems more robust than the first version.

@@MikeNSX Did it update the locks firmware or what? If code didn't work also then it wasn't the app.

This takes a bit of effort to install but combined with the factory roof rack (or any roof rack) it would easily handled your 16 foot inflatable boat. That said, not sure how hard it would be to lift it up there... I have been moving 16' trex boards myself. I forget what I had in the video but I ended up making the tops of the bed rails level with the truck rack so it's super easy to put most things up there. I've grown to love the whole setup (and although I obviously don't care....it makes my wussy truck a bit more macho...)

I think it was 130k at the time. I gave my records to the next owner so I can’t confirm.

I don’t know unfortunately. There are more than one version of this kit also. Kind of a level 1 level 2 option. My car is only lowere about 1.25” and it was almost an over correct. I think I had the lower level one as well. The good news. Haven’t had an issue since and tires wear great. Mechanics direct out of Lowell Mass was able to correct the front also so I’m full “street alignment” now. Racing alignment will be another day for me (and likely a different car).

Not yet (but soon). I have to get the thumb and also the auger in the next month or so. I’ll add when I get it going.

You can get the John deere 1025r with a backhoe attachment. Would have saved you some money, plus easier on the yard. But cool machine anyway.

@@josephbenge8707I don’t feel that is entirely accurate and certainly not on cost. I actually started with the plan for the 1025R. The quote new with attachments was over $30k (I think $20k+ base). This X machine by itself was $7500 new. With attachments just shy of $10k into it. My buddy who has a 1025R is the one that convinced me to get the excavator due to the specific tasks I need to do initially (long trenches close to the house). He felt the 1025R was not as easy to manage for this task (it will do it but harder to maneuver and you need more space due to its size). All that said, I agree that the 1025R has many other uses and its frankly a great machine. I fully plan to get one but even used the are $15k+ 3:41 base if 2019 or newer with low ish hours. Being super money conscious I would have bought this without attachments, run all these trenches and then sold it to then buy the 1025R. I still have more trenches to do but when done that may be my plan. I bought a Gorilla cart for my Lawn tractor to move dirt because that is one place the X isn’t good. I can load it but it brutal to drive any distance. The 1025R would be like a Cadillac in comparison (I really can’t wait to get…)

@MikeNSX Sorry, I was referring to buying a used 1025r with a backhoe attachment. Rather than the mini excavator and a 1025r. The one machine doing multiple tasks, including treaching. Yes, you are correct. Its dimensions are different and may not work for all situations. But any one of them looks like a fun way to get the job done. Good luck with all of your endeavors.

@@josephbenge8707Fair. I could have saved a lot on money… I have a terrible mental process of justifying tools. I’m tracking hours and usage vs rental cost. I’m just about break even now so I’m feeling ok about it. That said, there are many things the X can’t do so at some point I’ll be on a 1025R…

I have a separate video on the general machine. Overall all I am pretty happy with it. Not real major issues. Frankly greasing has been the most challenging item but I bought new tools and fittings to make that easier. I have 35 hrs on it now. It's just about paid itself off in work so it was a good deal for me. The company I will add is very responsive. Issue mentioned in this video was not due to a weld it was just due to a bad grease fitting.

I wish I could replicate what exactly made it work. After I got mine working I tried to video how I did it but couldn't repeat the process so I couldn't make the video. It's some kind of intermittent issue. We put a manual key box next to the door with the emergency key for the lock. I've only needed it that one time but getting locked out would be a problem. Good luck. If you figure out show how let us know.

Good luck!

I’m trying to understand how exactly you are trying to execute your task. This video shows how the unit installs. I think you could do it upside down but the lock would then be upside down also (I don’t think you can install one side up and one side down). Not sure this answers your question. Sounds like you may need to purchase locally, see if you can do what you’re saying and if not return in damaged.

If I follow you, you are saying the treads are in the boom vs the “boss” as I called it? If I have grease coming out of them is this correct? I follow your thought, basically you are stating the ring is just there to keep the fitting from getting smashed. Makes sense but I’m confused as to how the grease is coming out as the fitting is seated well in that location. I’ll disassemble and look closer. I’m also working with the company so we will see where it goes. They do respond quickly which is great. So far I’m happy with them.

@@MikeNSX Yes, threads on the boom itself, not the ring which is just a protector. Like @VTKingdomsawing stated, there maybe an issue with the grease channel. You can remove the pin and see if grease goes through. Good luck with the seller. I have an EM15 and love it!

@@MichelClavette I understand now. Typhon stated the same thing. So, I am incorrect about the weld. The issue must have something to do with fitting not seating. I’ll back that out in the next few days and take a look.

@@MikeNSX Just for containment and or aesthetics you might try a little JB Weld or the like and force/fill those gaps, sand and paint, would be an easy fix. Even Bondo should do the trick and be faster. Nice little machine, keep up with your vides, thanks!

@@massachusettsrestorationte3826 Yes. That was an education for me. It's just to protect the fitting not actually part of the process. Only issue I have really had has been getting to grease fitting. Still super pleased with it. Plan to do a year in review.

Yes

The rails are rated for 500 lbs.

Time will tell. I don’t have any grandiose plans to off road it. I did get the extended warranty.

It odd. Feel like the interface struggled to communicate initially. Interesting that once you get it setup, it holds forever. Very odd. I did a follow on video that shows a bench test process. It was hit or miss but once it worked, it was money.

Meaning the bolts I shaved in the “T” channel? I didn’t murder them down, just snug. The rails feel very sturdy.

Thanks for giving it a shot. Will be interesting to see where this goes….

@@MikeNSX btw, I couldn't find your (or any) ghost files there. I'm not sure if I'm looking in the wrong place or what. I am very new to this.

I forgot I posted this on my ‘channel of sorts”. It’s really more to share DIY stuff. In any case. My understanding is that you can pull up from the “Showcase”. Go there and search the criteria I mentioned. I’ll have to ask someone else I know with the game to make sure visible. My buddy got it but we are friends so it’s a bit different process. -Mike

I try anyway. I always get nervous starting these "20 minute car tasks" that turn out to be 12 hours needed two trips to Autozone and one to Home Depot...

@@MikeNSX Could be worse. Could've went to O'Reilly's 😅

Thanks. I'll add a bunch more this summer. Many many projects and plans for this sucker.

"Mi español es peor que mi ruso, pero ChatGPT me ayudó. Espero que el camión llegue a Brasil."

I do have the car anymore. What’s in the video is all I know at this point.

Are you referring to the rubber on the bottom of the stantion? You might be able to but cutting rubber flat direction would be tricky. Or am I missing what you are asking?

​@@MikeNSX The metal piece that you could not use that didn't fit properly flat at 5:56

Oh, Ok. I’m with you. The Metal piece. I could have cut that but it was pretty beefy. I’m not sure my light band saw would have got that done cleanly.

Glad it helped. It’s kinda a pain to get them out as I recall but more or less doable. Good luck, keep the shiny side up…