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Mine have lasted about that long. So far I haven’t run across better options. IMO, long term we need a change to have the lock on the wall side so you could run power to it. Or sole other option to run power through the door. Batteries don’t cut it.

Yes. The key point was that the lock would not lock or unlock. The fact that it “auto-unlocked” validated that it wasn’t mechanically broken, it was an electronic problem.

Yes. A number of times.

I never did. I suspect the air is sourced from and area that happens to be hot.

50 hrs in and basically no issues. I need to start getting my attachments installed…

@@MikeNSX Awesome! Love to hear this!

IMO, if the car is running ok, I would wait on changing the plugs. If it's not running ok, change the plugs but try to get to the seal as soon as you can. I don't think the oil creates too much of a problem to the plugs or ignition unless it's a lot getting up to the wire height. So frankly, if you are really on a budget (be that time or money...) you can probably just suck the oil out and see how long it takes for it to come back. It could be a very slow leak and make it a year between cleaning it out.

Glad it seems to work for you. I need to get my 3D printer going to have a real kit. Been busy though. Good luck.

Do you have a specific product to recommend? Maybe a link?

I don’t even use the WiFi so it’s more than that.

I think I lost about 2 MPG but I had the factory rails on since new which also had an impact. I run about 22 MPG highway which isn’t great but fine for me. I live very close to work now, less than 10miles per year.

@@MikeNSX Appreciate your quick feedback! Not bad at all

What was booked in the order was the cost so free shipping from that perspective. I had a small issue honestly and I can stated that they have been very responsive in every instance. I’m very pleased with the purchase. I jumped a track in the past few days and they helped me solve. Good company coming up on 1 year of ownership.

I have them both working now. I think the new/updated App helped. It seems more robust than the first version.

@@MikeNSX Did it update the locks firmware or what? If code didn't work also then it wasn't the app.

This takes a bit of effort to install but combined with the factory roof rack (or any roof rack) it would easily handled your 16 foot inflatable boat. That said, not sure how hard it would be to lift it up there... I have been moving 16' trex boards myself. I forget what I had in the video but I ended up making the tops of the bed rails level with the truck rack so it's super easy to put most things up there. I've grown to love the whole setup (and although I obviously don't care....it makes my wussy truck a bit more macho...)

I think it was 130k at the time. I gave my records to the next owner so I can’t confirm.

I don’t know unfortunately. There are more than one version of this kit also. Kind of a level 1 level 2 option. My car is only lowere about 1.25” and it was almost an over correct. I think I had the lower level one as well. The good news. Haven’t had an issue since and tires wear great. Mechanics direct out of Lowell Mass was able to correct the front also so I’m full “street alignment” now. Racing alignment will be another day for me (and likely a different car).

Not yet (but soon). I have to get the thumb and also the auger in the next month or so. I’ll add when I get it going.

You can get the John deere 1025r with a backhoe attachment. Would have saved you some money, plus easier on the yard. But cool machine anyway.

@@josephbenge8707I don’t feel that is entirely accurate and certainly not on cost. I actually started with the plan for the 1025R. The quote new with attachments was over $30k (I think $20k+ base). This X machine by itself was $7500 new. With attachments just shy of $10k into it. My buddy who has a 1025R is the one that convinced me to get the excavator due to the specific tasks I need to do initially (long trenches close to the house). He felt the 1025R was not as easy to manage for this task (it will do it but harder to maneuver and you need more space due to its size). All that said, I agree that the 1025R has many other uses and its frankly a great machine. I fully plan to get one but even used the are $15k+ 3:41 base if 2019 or newer with low ish hours. Being super money conscious I would have bought this without attachments, run all these trenches and then sold it to then buy the 1025R. I still have more trenches to do but when done that may be my plan. I bought a Gorilla cart for my Lawn tractor to move dirt because that is one place the X isn’t good. I can load it but it brutal to drive any distance. The 1025R would be like a Cadillac in comparison (I really can’t wait to get…)

@MikeNSX Sorry, I was referring to buying a used 1025r with a backhoe attachment. Rather than the mini excavator and a 1025r. The one machine doing multiple tasks, including treaching. Yes, you are correct. Its dimensions are different and may not work for all situations. But any one of them looks like a fun way to get the job done. Good luck with all of your endeavors.

@@josephbenge8707Fair. I could have saved a lot on money… I have a terrible mental process of justifying tools. I’m tracking hours and usage vs rental cost. I’m just about break even now so I’m feeling ok about it. That said, there are many things the X can’t do so at some point I’ll be on a 1025R…

I have a separate video on the general machine. Overall all I am pretty happy with it. Not real major issues. Frankly greasing has been the most challenging item but I bought new tools and fittings to make that easier. I have 35 hrs on it now. It's just about paid itself off in work so it was a good deal for me. The company I will add is very responsive. Issue mentioned in this video was not due to a weld it was just due to a bad grease fitting.

I wish I could replicate what exactly made it work. After I got mine working I tried to video how I did it but couldn't repeat the process so I couldn't make the video. It's some kind of intermittent issue. We put a manual key box next to the door with the emergency key for the lock. I've only needed it that one time but getting locked out would be a problem. Good luck. If you figure out show how let us know.

Good luck!

I’m trying to understand how exactly you are trying to execute your task. This video shows how the unit installs. I think you could do it upside down but the lock would then be upside down also (I don’t think you can install one side up and one side down). Not sure this answers your question. Sounds like you may need to purchase locally, see if you can do what you’re saying and if not return in damaged.

Do tell. Have a link you can share? Never heard of those. Past tense of course but I would be interested in what you are saying.

If I follow you, you are saying the treads are in the boom vs the “boss” as I called it? If I have grease coming out of them is this correct? I follow your thought, basically you are stating the ring is just there to keep the fitting from getting smashed. Makes sense but I’m confused as to how the grease is coming out as the fitting is seated well in that location. I’ll disassemble and look closer. I’m also working with the company so we will see where it goes. They do respond quickly which is great. So far I’m happy with them.

@@MikeNSX Yes, threads on the boom itself, not the ring which is just a protector. Like @VTKingdomsawing stated, there maybe an issue with the grease channel. You can remove the pin and see if grease goes through. Good luck with the seller. I have an EM15 and love it!

@@MichelClavette I understand now. Typhon stated the same thing. So, I am incorrect about the weld. The issue must have something to do with fitting not seating. I’ll back that out in the next few days and take a look.

The rails are rated for 500 lbs.

Time will tell. I don’t have any grandiose plans to off road it. I did get the extended warranty.

It odd. Feel like the interface struggled to communicate initially. Interesting that once you get it setup, it holds forever. Very odd. I did a follow on video that shows a bench test process. It was hit or miss but once it worked, it was money.

Meaning the bolts I shaved in the “T” channel? I didn’t murder them down, just snug. The rails feel very sturdy.

Thanks for giving it a shot. Will be interesting to see where this goes….

@@MikeNSX btw, I couldn't find your (or any) ghost files there. I'm not sure if I'm looking in the wrong place or what. I am very new to this.

I forgot I posted this on my ‘channel of sorts”. It’s really more to share DIY stuff. In any case. My understanding is that you can pull up from the “Showcase”. Go there and search the criteria I mentioned. I’ll have to ask someone else I know with the game to make sure visible. My buddy got it but we are friends so it’s a bit different process. -Mike

I try anyway. I always get nervous starting these "20 minute car tasks" that turn out to be 12 hours needed two trips to Autozone and one to Home Depot...

@@MikeNSX Could be worse. Could've went to O'Reilly's 😅

Thanks. I'll add a bunch more this summer. Many many projects and plans for this sucker.

"Mi español es peor que mi ruso, pero ChatGPT me ayudó. Espero que el camión llegue a Brasil."

I do have the car anymore. What’s in the video is all I know at this point.

Are you referring to the rubber on the bottom of the stantion? You might be able to but cutting rubber flat direction would be tricky. Or am I missing what you are asking?

​@@MikeNSX The metal piece that you could not use that didn't fit properly flat at 5:56

Oh, Ok. I’m with you. The Metal piece. I could have cut that but it was pretty beefy. I’m not sure my light band saw would have got that done cleanly.

Glad it helped. It’s kinda a pain to get them out as I recall but more or less doable. Good luck, keep the shiny side up…

Glad it helped. I video taped the trouble shooting but it was long so I didn’t post. The summary comments IMO are what’s important but I never found a definitive root cause. I simply know if it works on the bench test, you’re good and no point installing prior. It kinda odd but has been fine since.

You mean the filter in the 'toolbox' I wasn't sure about I presume? Makes sense. I haven't gotten into the manual yet as it got cold in New England so not work currently. Thanks.

That filter is a screening filter that goes inside the hydraulic tank. I added a return line filter to mine. It filters down to 10 microns. Cost ya about a $100 to add.

@@tomd864Got it. Spring time project…. Thanks

I just added to the description. Here is is directly: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ROYO40?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Glad you have it working. I have the one with the wifi bridge . I just installed it and it worked fine the first time. Really neat product if you dont have trouble but I can see where it would be frustrating if you do.

@@chrisb9028 It frankly been fine. Which I could figure out the root cause. Once the bench test worked, it’s been perfect since. Odd…

The one without the Bridge so no WiFi. My 2nd replacement one (3rd in total) did the same thing that makes me believe the setup has a gap. I’m going to pull all the locks out, place on the floor with no latch hardware and walk though piece by piece. I just wish the company knew had an answered. I’ve become there tech support.

Not following on the band saw and cutting drop edge on pieces I didn’t use unless you mean the cross rails. In that case, yes, I could have made it work. Mileage I’m like 50% highway and I average like 19 MPG which isn’t great but between the city driving and then the rails on the top and back, it a good amount of drag. Most I’ve hit with all that on is about 23 MPG. Problems. Just one but it was significant. I mention in my review at the very end. One day a bunch of warning lights came on. To make a long story short they had the car a month and changed 2 engine harnesses and a sensor. Was under warranty but off warranty I suspect 4-8k repair. No issue since. That was at like 8k miles. I know I’m not the only one but appears a limited issue.

@@MikeNSX I was relating to the 4 bases you didn't use. Cut them to make flat. The rubber gaskets you cut the alignment pins off would then work, covering about 2/3 of the bottom. That's sorta what I expected as to mileage drop. I know racks really affect aerodynamics. Sorry to hear about your issue. I've mostly heard about Dual Clutch Transmission problems. I understand the non-turbo uses a regular automatic. Thanks for your reply.

@@judih.8754 Ah, got it. I could have but those bottom pieces are real metal as opposed the the aluminum extrusions. Would probably not have been able to cut them. I’m concerned about the DCT in general but no issue currently. I wish it was Torque converter. Bought the extended warranty for that reason actually.