I used these instructions for my 2.5 GJ 2013 mazda 6. Worked perfectly. Really loosen the under tray. At least 10 to 15 recoveries of 12mm spanner. Also ratchet spanner is a must. 17mm flare nut spanner works well for compressing the unit, quite secure when you get it on. Thanks for the video, extremely helpful. Saved me over 400 dollars from a dealer. Took me about bang on 2 hours with lots of faffing around
appreciate the video. been driving my 3 for almost a year with that terrible squealing. I think it's time to replace the tensioner before I run out of luck and end up stranded. thanks
Your video was very helpful. Thank you for making and posting it. My daughter's Mazda 3 pulled into the driveway today making this very same noise. I looked in the engine bay while it was idling and the noise was coming right from the tensioner pulley. In fact the bottom of the tensioner piston that pivots on the the adjusting lever was rubbing the tension pulley.
Great video Michael , very helpful. I removed the front wheel and lower plastic wheel arch to gain access from the side and this was much easier than just accessing from the top. I replaced the water pump belt while the tensioner was off which was the hardest part of the job, but all up from start to finish only took an hour and 15 minutes. Its worth getting a 12mm ratchet spanner to remove the tensioner as its hard to get a socket in the space. I used a normal ring and open ended spanner but a ratchet spanner would have been easier and quicker.
Hi, thanks for video , the second bolt which is holding the tensioner is broken , it’s part of the engine what can i do?? Will my car work if i replace it with a small belt and don’t use tensioner?
Oh boy…. I don’t think smaller belt will last without the tensioner. And you need some way to adjust tension regardless if it’s active or passive. They also stretch a little over time to my understanding. I think you may need a good shop to see what then can do. I can’t recall that second location but I suspect it could be tapped and reset. I don’t have the car anymore to check. Good luck, that’s a rough one.
Just curious, did this by chance fix the common problem with this Mazda 3 where if you turn the steering wheel, the headlights dim? I'm about to replace the belt on my 2013 because I suspected my belt is worn. The more I research it, the more I think it's an un-fixable problem with this model or just a weak alternator. Also, you might want to check your motor mounts. Seems like your engine flexes front to back a little more than it should.
There is a PCM software fix for low alternator output when under load (the usual complaint is the headlights flicker when decelerating.) Ask your Mazda dealer to apply TSB: 01-13-21. They should do this as an emissions warranty item which is covered out to, I think, 8 years (10 in California). 2012-2013 MAZDA3 - HEADLIGHTS FLICKER WHEN BRAKES ARE APPLIED APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS 2012-2013 Mazda3 vehicles (with SKYACTIV-G 2.0L and Halogen Type Headlights)
I’ve looked for a skyactiv vid, but can’t find one. Do you know if you have to take this tensioner off to get access to the second bolt for the alternator? No good alternator removal vids for the skyactiv models.
I’m not 100% sure but I believe no. The SkyActiv is a Mazda engine. In years past the Mazda 6 / Ford Fusion had a shared platform and the Ford 2.3 liter was used on 4 cylinder models (I have a 2008 Mazda 6 with that motor). Transmission I don’t have any data on. In summary I believe the 2012 with SkyActiv is entirely Mazda.
Thanks now I would buy a used Mazda I was looking at a 2013 Mazda 3 sky active Manual transmission or automatics I really like Manual transmission are they Reliable and are they as a Honda Civic 2012 which I owns that has 235,005 miles auto transmission
@@honestscentz9300 I can only tell you my experience. This 2012 automatic has about 160k miles. Only repairs was this and a serpentine belt. It’s been flawless beyond that. My 2008 automatic (2.3 Ford motor) is at 145k miles and I’ve done a value cover and cleaned the throttle body. My only complaint is that I have some rust spots and it’s always garaged. We had an 2008 2.5 Mazda 3 automatic that was at 178k. Engine and tranny were fine but suspension needed work eventually. We bought that at 120k miles so I can’t speak to how it was managed prior. IMO, the Mazda’s are a great choice for low budget reliability. When you are north of 150k miles you need to expect something (even on a Honda). Many factors come into play over 150k miles. How someone drives, maintains and garages (or not) all impact. My buddies civic is at 320k miles but he has a 200 mile daily commute. Cars love that. They don’t like a 10mile commute... Good luck.
I got the part from Advanced Auto. It was aftermarket to my recollection. If I recall the OEM one from the dealer was double or triple the price but it was a while ago…
If the belts look good do you still have to replace them when you change the tensioner? I did this once before and putting the water pump belt back on was the biggest pain in the ass. I'd like to not have to do that again lol.
I did not change them. Wouldn’t be a bad idea but depends on your situation and time frame. Easy to say yes if you have an extra car, different world when you need to drive it to work in 6hrs…
@@belowaverage7539 Also depends on mileage. Under 100k miles I would probably leave them. Our tensioner only lasted about 5 years. OEM probably worth it…
@@MikeNSX man i wish mine lasted that long i just took a closer look at my belts and tensioner. i guess the last one i put in was low quality because the pulley developed a wide divet that's removing rubber from the belts haha. it's turned into an urgent situation :O i got a new tensioner on order and am looking for belts right now. My first belt set and tensioner lasted 90k miles! Dunno what happened with my current parts. they cost me like $160 bucks too :/
That oil over all that is most likely a leaky head pan gasket , mine did that as well ! The tensioner doesn’t move much at all and would have been easier with a longer box end wrench 🔧 Just sayin
I tought that this engine was delivered only in the 2014 Mazdas when Mazda was not with Ford but looking at this means my 2020 Mazda 3 has a ford Focus engine 😳
I can’t speak to that but was under the impression that Ford and Mazda ended most of their relationship by then. I also though the “SkyActiv” technology was all Mazda but couldn’t say for sure.
your method is very complicated there is another one that is better than the one you do and also with the one I know I can remove the belts, the tensioner and the water pump without using much effort.
I used these instructions for my 2.5 GJ 2013 mazda 6. Worked perfectly. Really loosen the under tray. At least 10 to 15 recoveries of 12mm spanner. Also ratchet spanner is a must. 17mm flare nut spanner works well for compressing the unit, quite secure when you get it on. Thanks for the video, extremely helpful. Saved me over 400 dollars from a dealer. Took me about bang on 2 hours with lots of faffing around
im about to do this for my 2014 model
Best tutorial for this on TH-cam. Applies to every Mazda with a Skyactiv motor.
Glad it helped…
appreciate the video. been driving my 3 for almost a year with that terrible squealing. I think it's time to replace the tensioner before I run out of luck and end up stranded. thanks
Good luck!
I was just about to do this this weekend on my 2012 skyactiv and was bummed there was no good video. Great video, thank you!!!
Hope it helps. It’s not as fluid as I would have as I would have liked but it will get you there...
I found it helpful to remove the passenger side tire and panels to allow for easier access to everything. Everything else was great thanks
Your video was very helpful. Thank you for making and posting it. My daughter's Mazda 3 pulled into the driveway today making this very same noise. I looked in the engine bay while it was idling and the noise was coming right from the tensioner pulley. In fact the bottom of the tensioner piston that pivots on the the adjusting lever was rubbing the tension pulley.
Great video Michael , very helpful. I removed the front wheel and lower plastic wheel arch to gain access from the side and this was much easier than just accessing from the top. I replaced the water pump belt while the tensioner was off which was the hardest part of the job, but all up from start to finish only took an hour and 15 minutes. Its worth getting a 12mm ratchet spanner to remove the tensioner as its hard to get a socket in the space. I used a normal ring and open ended spanner but a ratchet spanner would have been easier and quicker.
It’s been a while since I did this but sounds like a good strategy. Thanks
thanks for sharing the tips 🙏
for anyone interested in sound comparison...
before = @1:34
after = @14:56
🙏👐👍
E X C E L L E N T tutorial video. Nice job indeed, professional, clear explanations. Kudos NSXG!
Querencias7: Glad it helped.
What is that knocking noise when put into gear at the end? My car has been doing that now
I do have the car anymore. What’s in the video is all I know at this point.
Activity Rating 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 Greatest Thing ive ever seen in a DIY Video
Hi, thanks for video , the second bolt which is holding the tensioner is broken , it’s part of the engine what can i do?? Will my car work if i replace it with a small belt and don’t use tensioner?
Oh boy…. I don’t think smaller belt will last without the tensioner. And you need some way to adjust tension regardless if it’s active or passive. They also stretch a little over time to my understanding. I think you may need a good shop to see what then can do. I can’t recall that second location but I suspect it could be tapped and reset. I don’t have the car anymore to check. Good luck, that’s a rough one.
Thanks for the upload. Motor mounts next? I see that your motor rocks back and forth quite a bit.
Unfortunate for this request, I no longer have this car so won’t be getting to the mounts. Best of luck with that…
Just curious, did this by chance fix the common problem with this Mazda 3 where if you turn the steering wheel, the headlights dim? I'm about to replace the belt on my 2013 because I suspected my belt is worn. The more I research it, the more I think it's an un-fixable problem with this model or just a weak alternator.
Also, you might want to check your motor mounts. Seems like your engine flexes front to back a little more than it should.
James Davies: I never heard of that issue. Sorry.
There is a PCM software fix for low alternator output when under load (the usual complaint is the headlights flicker when decelerating.) Ask your Mazda dealer to apply TSB: 01-13-21. They should do this as an emissions warranty item which is covered out to, I think, 8 years (10 in California).
2012-2013 MAZDA3 - HEADLIGHTS FLICKER WHEN BRAKES ARE APPLIED
APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
2012-2013 Mazda3 vehicles (with SKYACTIV-G 2.0L and Halogen Type Headlights)
Dude you rock... Such a nice video... Issue solve, Thanks.
Hi, what model of tensioner did you use?
I can’t remember. I went to AutoZone and said give me what I need…
I’ve looked for a skyactiv vid, but can’t find one. Do you know if you have to take this tensioner off to get access to the second bolt for the alternator? No good alternator removal vids for the skyactiv models.
Gavin: Sorry I don’t. I also no longer have the vehicle so I can’t be of much help. Good Luck.
Do you remember the mileage on your Mazda?
Thanks!!!
I think it was 130k at the time. I gave my records to the next owner so I can’t confirm.
Great video, super helpful. The hammer was the key, for real. Thanks!
Hammer time
Does the 2012-2013 Mazda sky active has a lot of Ford parts in the engine and transmission thanks
I’m not 100% sure but I believe no. The SkyActiv is a Mazda engine. In years past the Mazda 6 / Ford Fusion had a shared platform and the Ford 2.3 liter was used on 4 cylinder models (I have a 2008 Mazda 6 with that motor). Transmission I don’t have any data on. In summary I believe the 2012 with SkyActiv is entirely Mazda.
Thanks now I would buy a used Mazda I was looking at a 2013 Mazda 3 sky active Manual transmission or automatics I really like Manual transmission are they Reliable and are they as a Honda Civic 2012 which I owns that has 235,005 miles auto transmission
@@honestscentz9300 I can only tell you my experience. This 2012 automatic has about 160k miles. Only repairs was this and a serpentine belt. It’s been flawless beyond that. My 2008 automatic (2.3 Ford motor) is at 145k miles and I’ve done a value cover and cleaned the throttle body. My only complaint is that I have some rust spots and it’s always garaged. We had an 2008 2.5 Mazda 3 automatic that was at 178k. Engine and tranny were fine but suspension needed work eventually. We bought that at 120k miles so I can’t speak to how it was managed prior. IMO, the Mazda’s are a great choice for low budget reliability. When you are north of 150k miles you need to expect something (even on a Honda). Many factors come into play over 150k miles. How someone drives, maintains and garages (or not) all impact. My buddies civic is at 320k miles but he has a 200 mile daily commute. Cars love that. They don’t like a 10mile commute... Good luck.
@@MikeNSX all thanks i drive 214 miles each way Monday to Friday I would check the Mazda 3 this time
Was that a mazda oem tensioner sold by rock auto or an aftermarket model?
I got the part from Advanced Auto. It was aftermarket to my recollection. If I recall the OEM one from the dealer was double or triple the price but it was a while ago…
@@MikeNSX Thank you for responding. I believe it, as Mazda parts are expensive.
@@troy3456789 Sure thing. I sold the car to a friend and did hear the tensioner went again so maybe OEM is worth it. Good luck…
@@MikeNSX 😯
I’m pretty sure this might be my problem with my 2016.5 CX-5. I’m beginning to hear something on that side of the engine bay as well.
If the belts look good do you still have to replace them when you change the tensioner? I did this once before and putting the water pump belt back on was the biggest pain in the ass. I'd like to not have to do that again lol.
I did not change them. Wouldn’t be a bad idea but depends on your situation and time frame. Easy to say yes if you have an extra car, different world when you need to drive it to work in 6hrs…
@@MikeNSX Indeed. I suppose it would best to play it safe and change the belts any way. thanks for the response!
@@belowaverage7539 Also depends on mileage. Under 100k miles I would probably leave them. Our tensioner only lasted about 5 years. OEM probably worth it…
@@MikeNSX man i wish mine lasted that long i just took a closer look at my belts and tensioner. i guess the last one i put in was low quality because the pulley developed a wide divet that's removing rubber from the belts haha. it's turned into an urgent situation :O i got a new tensioner on order and am looking for belts right now. My first belt set and tensioner lasted 90k miles! Dunno what happened with my current parts. they cost me like $160 bucks too :/
@@belowaverage7539 Ugh. Good luck. Some times cars are a real headache…
That oil over all that is most likely a leaky head pan gasket , mine did that as well !
The tensioner doesn’t move much at all and would have been easier with a longer box end wrench 🔧
Just sayin
What’s the book time on this ?
You’d need to ask a mechanic…I’m certainly not one of those.
Best explanation 👌
Off topic but have you ever came across a random misfire on this skyactive
No. We did not. I had it to about 150k miles but gave to a friend since. Haven’t heard of any issues.
Did that slove the issue?
Dalton: Yes it did. Still running perfect today a few months after the change.
Psst, your engine mounts are gone!
Thanks for the video tho
I tought that this engine was delivered only in the 2014 Mazdas when Mazda was not with Ford but looking at this means my 2020 Mazda 3 has a ford Focus engine 😳
I can’t speak to that but was under the impression that Ford and Mazda ended most of their relationship by then. I also though the “SkyActiv” technology was all Mazda but couldn’t say for sure.
This is a great video. Thank you.
Glad is helped. Good luck.
NOT A SPRING !!!! It’s pressure oil piston
You engine mounts needs inspection !!!
The pic earned my like lol
My secondary intention is to entertain…. Good luck.
your method is very complicated there is another one that is better than the one you do and also with the one I know I can remove the belts, the tensioner and the water pump without using much effort.