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Wow, Thank you so much. This is my first super thanks so it made my day. I hope you're able to get your dryer working again!

@splat2glitcher There should be a latch on your opener bar that you have to disengage first. It's usually a pull cord but you need to do so from the inside unfortunately. Once you disengage that you should be able to open and close it by hand from the outside.

@ yeah im probably gonna have to break a window open or crawl through the packed back cause my garage dont got a door and its literally leaning/gon collapse soon

That's awesome! Glad you were able to get it going again and thanks for adding the tip about the stereo repair shop. The replacement costs of these power supplies are pretty crazy so hopefully that will help for anyone that don't have the tools. Just out of curiosity was it the same caps that were bad for you?

So awesome you got it working! Impressive that you were able to twist them off without a hot air station and without damaging the pads. That must have took some patience. Did you replace the four I did as well or just the 2 1000uF leaking ones you noticed? Were those leaking1000uF caps on the same board? It would be great to know in case it happens again to me and I can keep an eye out for those 2. Thanks for the feedback and I can say that the receiver is still working great 2 years later so hopefully you get a few more years out of yours as well.

Yes I very gently twisted the two capacitors that were removed and then used some flux & solder braid with the solder iron to pull off the metal tabs. The pads were not damaged. The two 1000uF removed were on the same board as the 22uF's. They were close to the front of the receiver.

Sure. Try this one. www.amazon.ca/AUXITO-Bright-Chipsets-Courtesy-License/dp/B072JLWGQX/ref=sr_1_5

They are 11.65 inch(296 mm)

Wow, 2 years old is a bit surprising. Is it still under warranty perhaps? If not and you can definitely hear the hum of the compressor running, I would focus on the evaporator coil (the one with the fins). If you notice frost buildup, it's a common sign the refrigerant is low. If that checks out ok, do a visual inspection of the refrigerant lines and see if you can notice any possible leakages. Specifically look for stains or discoloration on any of the lines. If you have a leak, that will have to be repaired before recharging.

@@shaneperche-fixed-it Thanks for your quick reply, I've just dismantled it to see what happens inside while it's running. Everything is clean, no dust. Like new. The compressor gets hot quickly, but not too hot, you can get your hands on it. And only 3 of the 9 rows of evaporator fins are turning white. I only ran this test for 5 minutes in my workshop at 10°C. No leaks inside. What do you think, Doctor? Yes, it's been 28 months since I bought them, just out of warranty. It's still surprising that the 2 should break down at the same time. It' a COMFEE

@h.montgomery OK, it could be low on refrigerant, but before you try a recharge, can you try moving it to a warmer area to eliminate the ambient temperature as a possible issue? Some dehumidifiers only work efficiently above 18 degrees. This could explain partial frosting and why 2 units are experiencing the same issue at the same time.

@@shaneperche-fixed-it I know, thank you. This was a dismantled test in my workshop. In my shower room, it works at 22 C° and 80% humidity. If you put a hygrometer directly on the blower outlet, it indicates only 20% less and 7 C° more. When new, the air outlet was at 25% humidity.

@h.montgomery Given your observations, it sure is sounding like a low refrigerant problem, but like you said, it sure is strange to have 2 units experience that issue at the same time.

I see in one of the other comments how you did it. Thanks.

If your compressor isn't running, I would try replacing the capacitor. Sometimes bad capacitors will still test ok.

@ t h x

@WhiteFalconus Woah, you're right. Good eyes. I didn't even recall replacing it, but I don't think it helped. I think I initially started testing some caps with an ESR meter in circuit, and it tested bad, but when I pulled it out, it tested fine. That's probably why I didn't include the clip. Testing caps in-circuit can sometimes give false positives. I'm almost certain that replacing the 4 caps underneath that board should be all you need to do.

@@shaneperche-fixed-it Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. My multimeter does not offer ESR testing, when I was choosing which one to buy ESR sounded like some unnecessary voodoo only increasing the price ;-) I will try replacing only the four caps you mention then.

@@shaneperche-fixed-it Hey, thanks again! I finally mustered the courage to desolder the 4 caps (damaging one of the 8 pads in the process, but only slightly) and replace them with electrolytic ones. The crackling sound on mine was not persistent, it only appeared when I switched it on after night usually and went away when I switched it off/on again. But now it seems to be gone, phew :)

@@WhiteFalconus So awesome! Thanks for letting me know. Mine started the same way and just kept getting worse over time. It has still been good ever since and it's been a couple years at least. Damaging pads is pretty common and I find applying a little bit of flux before removal helps a lot. Sometimes I also use a solder wick when removing components to soak up as much solder as I can which also helps reduce pad damage. At the end of the day, the more you do, the better you get so I'm glad you mustered the courage to take it on. Pretty satisfying when you light it up and it's fixed.

@@shaneperche-fixed-it Totally, I always feel good when I manage to repair something and prolonging its life, despite not understanding the theory behind it. I used flux, but the contacts of those small SMT caps are pretty tiny and the black plastic surrounding them start to melt and stink quickly. So I got impatient with one of them and even though I kept changins sides every time and wiggling the cap, I probably pulled too soon. But it should be okay, when I tinned all the pads it helped the half lifted one to be more solid again unless I need to replace them again in the future, there should be no problem. Could not have done it without your video though. I am glad there are people out there who can figure out WHAT needs to be replaced and they are generous enough to share that knowledge with others.

The trick for that is to press the Cancel button and close the door. After a few seconds, it should start a drain cycle.

Thanks for the feedback. Hope it helps!

How did you get those screws out on the thermal fuse? So hard to get to, did you remove the black cover first?

@richardhagans1644 I was able to use a small socket wrench and remove them without having to remove the black cover. Definitely can't use a screw driver in that tight space.

Thank you. I am having the same problem. I'm going to try this.

A PF error code indicates a power failure. Check for some of the obvious things first like a damaged power cord. You might also want to try a different outlet to eliminate that as a possible cause. Once you eliminate the obvious things, I would check the sensors next. i.e. Humidity/Temperature sensors can cause a PF. Do you notice any overheating components when you get the error code?

I picked these ones up at the Infiniti dealership.

The E2 and E3 codes typically indicate that the humidity sensor is bad but if you already replaced that, I'm wondering if there are issues with the wiring or the control board itself. Double check the wiring from the humidity sensor to control board and see if there are any damaged or disconnected wires. Does the fan shut off at all before the error code? If the fan isn't running it could definitely affect the humidity sensor reading.

​@@shaneperche-fixed-it The fan only shuts off when the error shows up. When I start the dehumidifier it'll run for a few minutes before displaying the E3 error and after awhile of repeatedly powering it off and on again to get it running, it finally displays an E2 error code which then prevents the machine from running again. I'll have to off the power supply for a few minutes before it resets itself and starts running again. I did open it up to check on the cables, it seems fine with no damaged wires or disconnected wires, I googled about this issue and found some forum stating that it could be the defrost thermostat, do you think that might be the issue? I'm using an Europace EDH6351S Dehumidifier.

@@KozaraShinosuke I tried to find he manual for that model but was unsuccessful. Based on some google searching, it looks like that model doesn't have a defrost thermostat. I've had a defrost thermostat go bad on me before and it resulted in the coils getting frosted up but I suppose it could also cause the E2/E3 error code. In my searching, it looks like that model does have a temperature sensor. If that sensor goes bad, it could definitely give the E3 error code to indicate that it is overheating. Are you able to check that sensor?

@@shaneperche-fixed-it Hmm, I'll look into it, will let you know how it goes~

@@shaneperche-fixed-it I've opened it up and took a look, it may be the temperature sensor, but it uses a dual sensor type connector, ill see if can find a replacement

Thanks for the feedback. I had a similar problem in the past and it was a chipped starter pawl. Have you checked the starter pawls for chips or damage. That's a pretty common problem with these saws. So when you remove the starter cover do you see any chips in those plastic pawls? Or any debris in there that might be preventing them from engaging properly? The other common problem is a broken spring that is returns the pawls back into position. Make sure the is not damaged and that it's working properly. While you have that starter cover off, double check the flywheel for any cracks or debris that might prevent the pawls from engaging.

@@shaneperche-fixed-it I plan to do that this weekend while I'm over there. I'll check all those items. Thank you very much for the quick reply and info. I'll let you know what I find. Take care and be safe.

Yes, there are a few reasons a dehumidifier compressor can overheat but the most common reason is usually low refrigerant. However, it can also overheat if there are blockages in the coils due to dust or other debris. Bad wiring or a bad thermostat can cause the compressor to run too long. They can also just wear out over time.

Yes, it's 8577274. Here is a link to one but there are a lot of other options if you google that part number. www.amazon.ca/8577274-Thermistor-3392519-Whirlpool-KitchenAid/dp/B07TBYTK4V/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa

Interesting... Never thought of trying contact cleaner on a bad Pot so thanks for sharing. It's really hard to say what's causing that tick sound but it's likely the wiper is still not getting a clean connection on the resistive track. Maybe it will get better when the cleaner completely dissolves but it's hard to predict. Do you have a soldering iron? If so, you should be able to use that Pot with a solder wick instead of the heat gun. Solder wick is pretty cheap and I've used that in the past to successfully remove components from boards without damaging the trace. A board holder is pretty handy but I'm sure you can rig up something to keep it in place or maybe ask someone to give you a second set of hands to hold it steady while you do the work. It's just a shame to re-wire a whole new board in since it's a lot of work and $$$ vs. a $2 Pot. Anyway, I know how frustrating it is so I'm really hoping you can somehow get that Pot replaced.

So now a day or two has passed I re-plugged the guitar and I do not have that ticking sound, so it must've been because of moisture in the pot. It sounds great now, no scratching or popping on the volume control.

@@davidpickens6916 So awesome!!! I really appreciate you sharing that update and hopefully any others with the same issue read your post and try that first as it's certainly much easier than replacing the Pot! I will definitely try that fix first next time.

For sure... what are you experiencing with your dehumidifier?

Yes, there are some check engine light error codes that could affect traction control. For example: C0240 usually indicates a problem with the ABS system, which can affect the traction control. C0265 often points to a malfunction in the ABS/TCS (Traction Control System) pump motor or relay. C0710 usually indicates a problem with the ABS/TCS control module or its circuit; and C0899 usually indicates a fault in the communication between the ABS module and other control modules, which can affect traction control functionality. Did you get any of these codes when you scanned the OBD-II?

Agreed. I would imagine that it would require recharging again at some point. I don't know how long it will last but I can confirm that it is running in my basement today and is still working great a year after making the fix. It was sitting for 15 years when I tried using it a year ago so my guess is that it will probably need a recharge again sometime in the next 14 years. I'm quite curious how long it will last myself so as an experiment, I will definitely post when it stops working.

@@shaneperche-fixed-it Thanks for the quick reply. I'm glad your fix help up. My parents asked me to diagnose their unit, I do hear the compressor kicking in. No frost on any pipes. Not a drop of water was collected. I do feel the compressor very very hot to the touch. It might be like your unit and the refrigerant has leaked out ever time.

@craigg1668 Unfortunately, a start capacitor can pass a micrometer capacitance test but still fail at full voltage. The capacitor did fail the ESR resistance test, but I missed getting that clip in the video. You can see how to perform the resistance test here: th-cam.com/video/kdFIARakavk/w-d-xo.html at about 1:40. The reason I suspected the capacitor was bad is because my compressor motor wasn't starting at all, and as soon as I replaced it, the compressor motor started vibrating/humming immediately. So if your compressor motor isn't starting, I would suspect a bad cap even if it passes the capacitance test. If the cap is bulging at the top or the terminals are corroded, even more likely that is your issue. Hope that helps, and good luck!