I just fixed my SA-XR25 and would not even have tried without this video and excellent advice. I replaced 2 1000uF leaking capacitors with radials. I gently twisted and pulled off the two leaking surface mount capacitors. I tried to solder two replacement surface mounts but the tabs were too small and I did not have a hot air gun. Thanks you so much!!! EDIT 1 week later> Just one more update. I also replaced the 4 22uF capacitors with radials this weekend. It was certainly a challenge holding each tiny capacitor in place on the PCB and soldering it. Looking forward to using this SA-XR25 for a few more years.
So awesome you got it working! Impressive that you were able to twist them off without a hot air station and without damaging the pads. That must have took some patience. Did you replace the four I did as well or just the 2 1000uF leaking ones you noticed? Were those leaking1000uF caps on the same board? It would be great to know in case it happens again to me and I can keep an eye out for those 2. Thanks for the feedback and I can say that the receiver is still working great 2 years later so hopefully you get a few more years out of yours as well.
Yes I very gently twisted the two capacitors that were removed and then used some flux & solder braid with the solder iron to pull off the metal tabs. The pads were not damaged. The two 1000uF removed were on the same board as the 22uF's. They were close to the front of the receiver.
No problem. Let me know how it turns out. I feel pretty confident that replacing those 4 caps should solve your problem with the XR25 since the board is the same as the XR15 and the post I found on fixya was actually the suggested solution for the XR25. The good news is that my receiver is still working perfectly.
Thanks for the video! I am going to try fixing my XR15 this way too, but rewatching the video closely again now I noticed that you replaced another capacitor on the top digital board with an electrolytic one without mentioning here (visible at 2:28). You said you had not discovered any bad ones during your inspection so why did you change that one? Was it leaking after all? Is it necessary to replace this top one as well?
@WhiteFalconus Woah, you're right. Good eyes. I didn't even recall replacing it, but I don't think it helped. I think I initially started testing some caps with an ESR meter in circuit, and it tested bad, but when I pulled it out, it tested fine. That's probably why I didn't include the clip. Testing caps in-circuit can sometimes give false positives. I'm almost certain that replacing the 4 caps underneath that board should be all you need to do.
@@shaneperche-fixed-it Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. My multimeter does not offer ESR testing, when I was choosing which one to buy ESR sounded like some unnecessary voodoo only increasing the price ;-) I will try replacing only the four caps you mention then.
@@shaneperche-fixed-it Hey, thanks again! I finally mustered the courage to desolder the 4 caps (damaging one of the 8 pads in the process, but only slightly) and replace them with electrolytic ones. The crackling sound on mine was not persistent, it only appeared when I switched it on after night usually and went away when I switched it off/on again. But now it seems to be gone, phew :)
@@WhiteFalconus So awesome! Thanks for letting me know. Mine started the same way and just kept getting worse over time. It has still been good ever since and it's been a couple years at least. Damaging pads is pretty common and I find applying a little bit of flux before removal helps a lot. Sometimes I also use a solder wick when removing components to soak up as much solder as I can which also helps reduce pad damage. At the end of the day, the more you do, the better you get so I'm glad you mustered the courage to take it on. Pretty satisfying when you light it up and it's fixed.
@@shaneperche-fixed-it Totally, I always feel good when I manage to repair something and prolonging its life, despite not understanding the theory behind it. I used flux, but the contacts of those small SMT caps are pretty tiny and the black plastic surrounding them start to melt and stink quickly. So I got impatient with one of them and even though I kept changins sides every time and wiggling the cap, I probably pulled too soon. But it should be okay, when I tinned all the pads it helped the half lifted one to be more solid again unless I need to replace them again in the future, there should be no problem. Could not have done it without your video though. I am glad there are people out there who can figure out WHAT needs to be replaced and they are generous enough to share that knowledge with others.
I just fixed my SA-XR25 and would not even have tried without this video and excellent advice. I replaced 2 1000uF leaking capacitors with radials. I gently twisted and pulled off the two leaking surface mount capacitors. I tried to solder two replacement surface mounts but the tabs were too small and I did not have a hot air gun. Thanks you so much!!! EDIT 1 week later> Just one more update. I also replaced the 4 22uF capacitors with radials this weekend. It was certainly a challenge holding each tiny capacitor in place on the PCB and soldering it. Looking forward to using this SA-XR25 for a few more years.
So awesome you got it working! Impressive that you were able to twist them off without a hot air station and without damaging the pads. That must have took some patience. Did you replace the four I did as well or just the 2 1000uF leaking ones you noticed? Were those leaking1000uF caps on the same board? It would be great to know in case it happens again to me and I can keep an eye out for those 2. Thanks for the feedback and I can say that the receiver is still working great 2 years later so hopefully you get a few more years out of yours as well.
Yes I very gently twisted the two capacitors that were removed and then used some flux & solder braid with the solder iron to pull off the metal tabs. The pads were not damaged. The two 1000uF removed were on the same board as the 22uF's. They were close to the front of the receiver.
I just saved my SA XR15 with the help of your video ... thanks!
That's so awesome! I'm so glad it was able to help someone else so thanks for letting me know.
Got same problem with XR25... Will try solve this by replasing those caps. Big thanks for sharing!))
No problem. Let me know how it turns out. I feel pretty confident that replacing those 4 caps should solve your problem with the XR25 since the board is the same as the XR15 and the post I found on fixya was actually the suggested solution for the XR25. The good news is that my receiver is still working perfectly.
Thank you so much!!!😊
Thanks for the video! I am going to try fixing my XR15 this way too, but rewatching the video closely again now I noticed that you replaced another capacitor on the top digital board with an electrolytic one without mentioning here (visible at 2:28). You said you had not discovered any bad ones during your inspection so why did you change that one? Was it leaking after all? Is it necessary to replace this top one as well?
@WhiteFalconus Woah, you're right. Good eyes. I didn't even recall replacing it, but I don't think it helped. I think I initially started testing some caps with an ESR meter in circuit, and it tested bad, but when I pulled it out, it tested fine. That's probably why I didn't include the clip. Testing caps in-circuit can sometimes give false positives. I'm almost certain that replacing the 4 caps underneath that board should be all you need to do.
@@shaneperche-fixed-it Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. My multimeter does not offer ESR testing, when I was choosing which one to buy ESR sounded like some unnecessary voodoo only increasing the price ;-) I will try replacing only the four caps you mention then.
@@shaneperche-fixed-it Hey, thanks again! I finally mustered the courage to desolder the 4 caps (damaging one of the 8 pads in the process, but only slightly) and replace them with electrolytic ones. The crackling sound on mine was not persistent, it only appeared when I switched it on after night usually and went away when I switched it off/on again. But now it seems to be gone, phew :)
@@WhiteFalconus So awesome! Thanks for letting me know. Mine started the same way and just kept getting worse over time. It has still been good ever since and it's been a couple years at least. Damaging pads is pretty common and I find applying a little bit of flux before removal helps a lot. Sometimes I also use a solder wick when removing components to soak up as much solder as I can which also helps reduce pad damage. At the end of the day, the more you do, the better you get so I'm glad you mustered the courage to take it on. Pretty satisfying when you light it up and it's fixed.
@@shaneperche-fixed-it Totally, I always feel good when I manage to repair something and prolonging its life, despite not understanding the theory behind it. I used flux, but the contacts of those small SMT caps are pretty tiny and the black plastic surrounding them start to melt and stink quickly. So I got impatient with one of them and even though I kept changins sides every time and wiggling the cap, I probably pulled too soon. But it should be okay, when I tinned all the pads it helped the half lifted one to be more solid again unless I need to replace them again in the future, there should be no problem. Could not have done it without your video though. I am glad there are people out there who can figure out WHAT needs to be replaced and they are generous enough to share that knowledge with others.