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Yea i am trying to get it dialed in right first. Right now the drip feed is too fast, so i have to get a slower drip end and try that out. I also have to find a way to get it to drip into a soft brush or something that will apply it to the pad without the pad slinging it off while its running lol. But if/when i ever get it right, a video is definitely going up with how to do it.

Oh the other issue is that it doesn’t seem to save more time than just spraying the discs lol 😂. So there’s that too

I’ll look to see if i have any blu-rays that are in bad shape. Usually the newer games come in pretty good condition. But i will keep an eye out 👍

Yea I mention this when I test the games at the end of the video. That there could always be a "bad data spot" on the disc and whenever you hit a certain part of the game or try to access a certain mode, it will just freeze up on that specific spot each and every time. Walmart has a 90 day refund period, so I usually just do quick tests on games that were in really bad shape, and if they pass that and at some point the customer has an issue they can refund it without issue. Unless they have visual pitting like with NFL Street, those do not get sold because I don't trust the pitted area to work correctly if it is ever needed for data.

Happy you enjoyed it. Yea i just use the sandpaper that comes with the jfj. Not even jfj can mess up sandpaper 😂

Lol 😂 so i basically built a automatic water feeding system that drips water into the jfj directly into the pads while it runs. However, it is still being tweaked. I need to get a slower drip end and also find a way to stop it from immediately slinging the drips all over the place lol. If i get it where i want it, then I’ll do a video and show how to set it up. Right now i dont see much of an advantage from just spraying the disc with water pre cycle. But maybe i might if its working right 🤷🏽‍♂️ Edit: Just to clarify, it was not running during the video in case you (or anyone else) was wondering.

I’ve never had any issues resurfacing ps3 or ps4 discs with it. Granted i do not use the jfj compound or pads with the machine either though. Bauer pads and Meguairs or 3D compound and polish gives great results

Thanks 🙏🏽 good luck using the jfj

Yea same here regarding not really having many GameCube games. I just don’t come across many and don’t actively search for them either. It’s definitely only worth it if you have a lot of GameCube games and basically buy a second machine to keep as the GameCube one

Thanks 🙏🏽

Yea jfj is horrible with customer service. Hopefully you can find the pads somewhere. Ive used both milwaukee and bauer pads with great results.

Thanks 🙏🏽

No. I did just buy some 3D compound and polish which will be here tomorrow. Gonna do a video on those to see how they perform. Apparently they are really highly regarded in the automotive detail industry.

Happy to help 👍

Best use case is to use the meguairs 105/110 when you are buffing and the 205/210 when you polish.

What I’ve started doing more is giving the discs a few sprays of water before i close the lid and run the cycle. It helps keep heat down and keeps the compound from drying so quick. Plus it makes it a lot easier to wipe off after. Just make sure you are using a soft microfiber cloth

@@GamingRenewedLLC thanks mate will give that a try 👍

👍

So by circular scratches do you mean a bunch of them? Or just one perfect circle, like how the 360 would do if you hit it while playing a game? If it’s a bunch of circular scratches, sometimes you just got someone else’s attempt at resurfacing it and it could already be destroyed from heat buildup. When a pad dries out it will leave swirls all in the disc and also make the disc get super hot. Even if the disc looks immaculate, it can be destroyed from the heat buildup too. A lot of times the heat damage shows no physical damage at all and you will have issues like you said where the game will read but have a specific area that it always dies on. In those cases it’s nothing you can do because the data layer itself is damaged. Which is the layer sandwiched in between the disc. When we resurface, we are basically just removing blemishes from protective window cover that lets the laser go through it and read the data. The scratches make the laser bounce and it can’t penetrate to the data layer.

@@GamingRenewedLLC Yeah like the 360 style ones.

Ah. Unfortunately that is probably toast. There’s always a very slim chance you can save it with sanding but its hit or miss. That damage was done by the laser diode cutting into the disc. If the cut is deep enough it hit the data layer and that can’t be fixed. So it’s all luck of the draw on exactly how deep the scratch was. You can make the ring itself go away, but the data in that ring is already gone. Can’t bring that back. Thats why they usually freeze in a specific place constantly.

Ahh! Thanks so much my friend! Yeah was actually able to save 2 out of 4 with just buffing. Think maybe I should not have tried to sand and maybe should waited between discs for the stupid back plate to cool down. Don't know why they went to metal. Wish there was something between jfh and the eco pro. Such a steep jump to go from $300 to $1600.

They probably use metal for the plate because all the force is applied to the plate when you close the lid. If it warped or curved in any way you wouldn’t get even contact with the pad and disc and it would miss spots in the disc or overwork one area. But yea it does hold heat between cycles if you run it back to back with no pause in between. IMO the JFJ is far better but just has a steep learning curve. But once you get it down then you can sand, buff, and polish all with one machine. The Eco Pro only does buffing and sanding. Plus you don’t have prepaid minutes limiting your use of the machine or being locked into only buying products from Elm.

Yea. Only for the games i sell. If it’s for my personal use or just a test game, then i wont.

Yea these are the 6” Bauer pads you have to trim down. Wish i could help but not really familiar with getting them in Canada. I also use Milwaukee pads too (in another video) maybe those might be easier to get?

Yea thats a good process too. Only using the 20 sec bursts help stop the disk from ever getting too hot.

Yea i saw how the Elm Eco Pro 2 has a water system built into it and figured i could replicate it for far less money. Pump and reservoir was only about $50 all in. Way better than paying $1900 lol.

@@GamingRenewedLLC you are the man. After watching some videos of professionals like yourself, elm is not that impressive other than its automation. Jfj out of the box is not great but with technique and the right supplies it’s awesome. You should sell the water device for jfj users

Thanks i appreciate that. I haven’t got the water setup dialed in yet to where it should be. Once i do, I’ll do a video on it and provide the links if anyone is interested in doing it as well.

My main source is pawn shops. I give the owners money as a “credit” so to speak and they buy all the games and consoles they would turn down normally due to them already having too many. They give the people pawning the items the normal rate they’d offer and then i give them a “finder’s fee” on top of it. I get the stuff for a lot cheaper and they get to make money from items they would’ve normally had to turn away, so win win. I also do auctions on goodwill and ebay as well. I used to buy from mercari but they got too crazy with fees now to be able to make any money. Profit margins are different per item but normally it’s not a “double your money” thing. Since i offer 3 day free shipping i have to eat that plus fees from Walmart and then supplies and time spent fixing things. I tend to lean more towards moving more volume at a lower price to sell fast instead of holding for “market rate”. Its more of a side gig for me right now until i learn more about the business and really sharpen my skills doing board work with the solder station. My only advice is don’t let the set backs get you down and just try to learn from them as best as you can. I’ve made a lot of mistakes lol. Don’t even get me started about buying barbies and porcelain dolls to flip 😂. That failed spectacularly 🤣🤣🤣

@@GamingRenewedLLC thanks for all the insight , do you have a discord I can reach you at? Would love to chat with you a bit.

Unfortunately I don’t have a discord.

@@GamingRenewedLLCcan you break down the cost you are paying to the pawnshops? I would appreciate that very much. I thank you for your insights and time good sir

So its not really a set rate i pay them. Its based on condition and if the item is actually functioning. Also, if it’s complete as well. Normally if they got a xbox one for example for like $40 they would charge me an extra $20 to get it from them. If it doesn’t boot up then we can drop it to $10 if its firmware related or $5 if its a power on issue. Games are usually an extra $3 or so, again depending on the game. They normally only give $5-10 a game depending on the game. Normally i get good rates from them because its a pawn shop so they are not paying anywhere near market value for what people bring in. Plus i don’t have to haggle with the people either. Since the pawn shop is essentially paying them with my money, whatever i give them is just free money for them for conducting the trade.

Thanks 🙏🏽. Yea either the Bauer or Milwaukee pads are a good option. Milwaukee you don’t have to cut if you don’t want to deal with cutting them to size. As for how many disks i can resurface on a pad, I’d say around 150 or so. Maybe 200. It really just depends on how bad the disks are. If you are doing 2mins a pop for a lot of disks, then you’re gonna get less disks overall out of the pad. But if you can get by with 20secs or 1min then yea around 200 would be a good estimate. So i use the PlastX and the Meguairs 205/210 polish compound interchangeably. But mostly the meguairs 205. I have been doing this for about a year now and literally am just running out of the 205 lol. It really lasts awhile and I’m heavy handed. Probably would’ve lasted longer if i had been using the water spray from the beginning, since you can run a lot less product when you spray the disc and pad with water too before you run it. Thanks for the support and i wish you the best with the JFJ 👍

I just added the links to each for you in the description. The links are for the better versions of what i use now. Waiting for these to run out to go get the better ones. They have less sling and is made specifically for rotary and high speed applications. Like what is happening with the JFJ.

@@GamingRenewedLLC My Bauer pad just split in half oddly lol. I only got to use it 5 times.

That’s really odd lol. I could see maybe it started cutting into the pad but splitting in half I’ve never seen before.

Sometimes but mostly it’s stuff i get from local pawn shops. Not in your normal sense, but i give the owners money upfront to “buy” the items from people bringing in games and stuff that they would normally not take due to having too much on hand at that moment. They give the normal amount to the people that they would’ve offered, then basically give it to me plus a slight up-charge. That way they make money still on merchandise they would’ve rejected and i get stuff at essentially pawn store offer prices. TH-cam has taught me literally everything i know about fixing this stuff lol. Granted you learn your own little tricks and stuff as you keep doing this type of work, or you learn to take 2-3 other people’s process and merge it into a better one.

Honestly they are interchangeable IMO. Only real difference is that the plastx doesn’t get hard and clog up in the top lol. Granted if you close the top on the polish compound it wouldn’t either but thats asking an awful lot of me IMO 😂😂.

@@GamingRenewedLLC can you use Car Scratch remover compound .?

I’ve never used it so really can’t say. However, usually any compound that’s good for clear coat buffing and polishing is safe to use on most discs. The clear coat on paint and the clear coat on discs are extremely similar.

No swirls. But normally if you are getting swirls, you probably need to start using water too. A lot of times the swirls are from the pad drying out during the cycle. If you spray the disc and pads with water then apply the product, you shouldn’t get any swirls. Until you get it down i’d also suggest staying away from 2min cycles. It gives the biggest risk of swirls when you haven’t nailed down your process yet.

Not yet. Planning on it. Just haven’t pulled the trigger yet.

I use the meguairs 105 and 205. You can get it from any automotive store, walmart, or amazon.

@@GamingRenewedLLC any update for the gamecube kit you promised to do a video

Not yet. Been busy with end of school year stuff for the kiddos. Its still in the works. Just have to buy the adapter. The biggest hurdle is finding the yellow polishing pad for the gamecube adapter. I see the gamecube playe adapter, the gamecube pad spindle, and the buffing pad but no polish pad. On the JFJ site they have the white buffing pad for the gamecube adapter but they don’t have the yellow polish pad listed. Not really sure how you could get good results without having both. So trying to figure that out as well. Nothing is as it should be with this company lol.

Home depot website. Link in the description

Yea i would say the Bauer performs better but the Milwaukee is right there with it. The cutting isn’t bad at all for the great results like you said. I also live close to harbor freight, so being able to just get a new pad same day of the Bauer is really convenient.

I think Milwaukee is sold in the uk. So you might can find the pads. Just not familiar with stores out there. Maybe searching for the part number might help you?

Happy to help! Literally just made a new video showing Milwaukee pads as an option as well. You doing have to cut those either!

I think you are talking about the eco pro 2? If so, I’ve never used one so can’t say. But i doubt it would be better. The big advantage the eco pro has is it can continuously add water and product while the repair is in process. So you can stop heat buildup a lot better that way and get better results. JFJ is good, but from a technical perspective it really shouldn’t outperform the Eco machines.

@@GamingRenewedLLC Yoh have proven it’s better bro for 5% of the price of an eco pro

Lol 😂. Yea price wise its definitely better. I guess if you are doing a lot of discs a day it would save more time going the Eco route. Since its no pad changes or applying product and water. Just click and it does all the work for you. But I’m not doing enough resurfacing to justify that price tag.

Thanks for the insight! I would still say overall my selling experience has been good with Walmart. Not having all the individual “gates” on being approved to sell items is a major perk. But like everything there are some cons you just learn to deal with and try to minimize it as much as possible.

​@@GamingRenewedLLC Would you recommend starting a business selling video games on Amazon and Walmart or just Walmart. Do you have experience selling on Mercari?

Right now i would stay away from Mercari. They shifted all the selling fees to the buyers and it has drastically reduced sales on the platform. Walmart is fine but you will have to learn to deal with the returns. Walmart allows returns for everything, even just “not wanting it anymore”. As long as it’s within the 90 day window, it can be returned. Walmart doesn’t gate like Amazon and once you are approved to sell on Walmart Marketplace you can literally sell anything you want. Thats the biggest pro. In order to apply on Walmart you need to have a registered business like a LLC and a business checking account as well. Also, you have to provide a link to where you currently sell at in order to show a history of online sales. Amazon is the best to sell on but it is also the hardest to sell on due to all the gating they do. You will have to apply to sell under listings for each publisher of video games. For example ubisoft, sony, rockstar, etc. and you will need to provide an invoice for each one from an authorized distributor in order to apply to sell under the listings. It’s a headache, but worth it if you get through it. Amazon doesn’t require you to have a business or anything like that. You can sell just as an individual.

I feel like it has to be so you can’t reuse the cases easily 😂. They are definitely top 3 worst sticker to remove

You’re welcome! Their stuff used to be better but seems the quality has taken a drastic drop sadly. But i guess since they are basically the only resurfacing machine you can buy that isn’t really low end and isn’t $1500 they can get away with it.

Definitely a learning curve. Mostly due to the instructions being so bad. If you follow the instructions you will ruin the disc like 40% of the time lol

You use those on games that are really badly scratched. If you look at my video on resurfacing ps1 games, you will see how i use them as well.

What machine did you end up getting and how do you like it?

Yes. You just have to pull it up off the rod it sits on. Now i will say that these machines are not known for build quality, so be careful. I usually just take a brush and clean underneath mine. I never really worry about cleaning the top of the wheel because it is just covered by pad anyway. I just make sure it is clean enough for a good bond to the pad.

@@GamingRenewedLLC questions for the sand paper pads how do you replace a new sheet to the sand paper pad when it has been use because isn't like really glue on to the pad? idk if you use the sand paper pads?

I do use them. They actually peel off the pads pretty cleanly when you need to change them. They have their own pads they sit on. Not the buffing or polish pads. But yea just peel it off and stick a new one on.

will this machine be compatible with gamecube games if it please demonstrate a video thanks

You have to buy an adapter to do them. Once i get mine i will make a video on using it.

So it sounds like it both scenarios you have damage to the disc most likely from it getting too hot. If the disc gets too hot it will destroy that data layer on the disc and even though the disc itself may look pristine it will not read at all, or have issues getting past a certain point where the data is damaged. If the disc is not reading or playing without issue and the back already looks great, then I would say to just write it off as the data itself being damaged, either during some point in its life before you resurfaced it, or during you resurfacing it. No point in keep running it through the machine at that point. Only exception is if the game is worth a lot of money. Then you can give it some more attempts to try and hopefully revive it.

@@GamingRenewedLLC well thats a bummer. Another question for you if I may. I also did a few ps2 discs, they seem to be more forgiving for sure but 2 of them now take longer to load through the opening credits than before, data damage again?

Hmmm i wouldn’t say data damage since it does actually load. The lasers on the PS2 can be picky at times, and when you resurface a disc you are peeling off some of the material to make it smooth again so the laser doesn’t get blurred out due to the scratches. After the resurface the laser might just be having trouble staying on track to read the data or it could be having to access other areas of the disc to get to the corrective data put on the dvd to help it play even if certain areas are damaged. Think of it as an emergency backup of extra data. How much longer is it taking?

Thanks! I really appreciate it. So for discs that are pretty bad off or seem to have been resurfaced but didn’t turn out good, you will probably have to start all the way at the coarse 600 grit sandpaper (10 secs), to the 1200 grit sandpaper (10 secs), then buffing pad (20 seconds to a 1 min, your choice), then finally the polishing pad for 1 min. Make sure you spray those sanding pads with water nice and good. You want to be sure you are wet sanding, even though the machine says not to. THROW AWAY THEIR INSTRUCTIONS 😂😂. I put up a video for resurfacing PS1 games that started at the 600 grit stage and shows how to use the water and why. Those same steps would apply for your scenario too. Also, last thing to consider, try and see if the disc will read before you start to resurface it. Whoever tried to resurface it before you may have ruined it with too much heat. Sometimes that gives that “wavy” look. If that happened you can’t likely save it. But still give it a shot with the JFJ and see if it comes around. Before I resurface games i always try to see if they read first. That way if they read before i resurface it and then it doesn’t after i know it was me lol. You may still mess up some discs once in a while. Don’t sweat it though. It happens. Especially with the worse off discs you try to save. Just keep learning and keep working at it.