Great. Video. I have the jfj stuff but as soon as I go through it I’m buying these products. Appreciate you and good luck to your business going forward!
What i find works best is to rinse the pad first in the sink and run it without a disc to spin off excess water. After this the pad has absorbed enough liquid to allow the use of less compound. I also only put the compound under the disc and work in 20 sec bursts until i see the pad is fully saturated on the surface with compound.
Just got my JFJ in and have been using the Bauer pads since I live close to two harbor freights. I’ll stick with them for now, mainly due to price range. I don’t mind cutting them and they perform beautifully. Milwaukee does seem like a decent alternative.
Yea i would say the Bauer performs better but the Milwaukee is right there with it. The cutting isn’t bad at all for the great results like you said. I also live close to harbor freight, so being able to just get a new pad same day of the Bauer is really convenient.
@@GamingRenewedLLC They seem to be clearing out the Bauer pads sadly. I have to go about 2.5 hours away to the store that has the yellow one in stock. :( I may try to find them on eBay if someone has a couple of new ones. It's the only thing I've yet to buy! Looking forward to watching this video and seeing how well the Milwaukee version of the yellow Bauer pad does.
I think Milwaukee is sold in the uk. So you might can find the pads. Just not familiar with stores out there. Maybe searching for the part number might help you?
I would say it compares good to them. I really use them interchangeably. But now i use the 3D products. I like them a little bit more but i wouldn’t say they are way better.
Whats your procedure for discs with the circular scratches? I had a zelda twilight princess for wii and super mario galaxy 1 with what I consider light circular scratches. I tried just using the mcguires and the jfj buffing pad for 1 minute the scratches were basically gone but no joy. So I tried sanding 10 seconds for both course and smooth. Then 1 minute mcguires and jfj pad. Of course h2o for sanding part. I swear the disc looks amazing except for a light ring scratch in the center (I know I should be a piece of cloth under the locking nut. Anyway the smbg1 was working up until the first cut screen then disc error (btw wii is updated). With zelda I can make selections but when Its finalized and its going to load the first video crash boom. Any ideas or anything you do to recover from this? Thanks!
So by circular scratches do you mean a bunch of them? Or just one perfect circle, like how the 360 would do if you hit it while playing a game? If it’s a bunch of circular scratches, sometimes you just got someone else’s attempt at resurfacing it and it could already be destroyed from heat buildup. When a pad dries out it will leave swirls all in the disc and also make the disc get super hot. Even if the disc looks immaculate, it can be destroyed from the heat buildup too. A lot of times the heat damage shows no physical damage at all and you will have issues like you said where the game will read but have a specific area that it always dies on. In those cases it’s nothing you can do because the data layer itself is damaged. Which is the layer sandwiched in between the disc. When we resurface, we are basically just removing blemishes from protective window cover that lets the laser go through it and read the data. The scratches make the laser bounce and it can’t penetrate to the data layer.
Ah. Unfortunately that is probably toast. There’s always a very slim chance you can save it with sanding but its hit or miss. That damage was done by the laser diode cutting into the disc. If the cut is deep enough it hit the data layer and that can’t be fixed. So it’s all luck of the draw on exactly how deep the scratch was. You can make the ring itself go away, but the data in that ring is already gone. Can’t bring that back. Thats why they usually freeze in a specific place constantly.
Ahh! Thanks so much my friend! Yeah was actually able to save 2 out of 4 with just buffing. Think maybe I should not have tried to sand and maybe should waited between discs for the stupid back plate to cool down. Don't know why they went to metal. Wish there was something between jfh and the eco pro. Such a steep jump to go from $300 to $1600.
They probably use metal for the plate because all the force is applied to the plate when you close the lid. If it warped or curved in any way you wouldn’t get even contact with the pad and disc and it would miss spots in the disc or overwork one area. But yea it does hold heat between cycles if you run it back to back with no pause in between. IMO the JFJ is far better but just has a steep learning curve. But once you get it down then you can sand, buff, and polish all with one machine. The Eco Pro only does buffing and sanding. Plus you don’t have prepaid minutes limiting your use of the machine or being locked into only buying products from Elm.
No swirls. But normally if you are getting swirls, you probably need to start using water too. A lot of times the swirls are from the pad drying out during the cycle. If you spray the disc and pads with water then apply the product, you shouldn’t get any swirls. Until you get it down i’d also suggest staying away from 2min cycles. It gives the biggest risk of swirls when you haven’t nailed down your process yet.
I found some cheap 5 inch pads on Amazon from some company called Siquk. They come in a 4 pack for like $10. I did have to trim them to fit. I'm not sure how long they'll hold up but so far I've found that the orange/red one and the blue one both seem to do a great job. The yellow one in the pack feels a lot more abrasive than the others so I haven't dared to try that yet. The last one in the pack is like a microfiber topped pad that I haven't found a use for yet.
@@GamingRenewedLLC I've been messing with them and it seems like the red/orange one is great for the first 10-15 discs, and then all of a sudden it's swirl marks galore. Not sure if I did something wrong to cause it but my process didn't change throughout all that time. EDIT: And the blue one starts to disintegrate after about 20-25 runs. Blue fuzz everywhere inside the JFJ!
@@GamingRenewedLLC No, a handful of runs at a time with plenty of compound and water as needed. Same as I treat the OEM pads. They were definitely better than the Temu one I tried that blew apart on the first run. Ha!
Yea the base is smaller than the pad, but the majority of the pad is still stuck to the base. I’ve never had any issues with it being unbalanced or coming off the base during use.
Great. Video. I have the jfj stuff but as soon as I go through it I’m buying these products. Appreciate you and good luck to your business going forward!
Thanks 🙏🏽 good luck using the jfj
Just got the Milwaukees! Can't find the Bauers in Canada though 😢.
Yea apparently the bauers are being phased out from harbor freight down here too 🙁
What i find works best is to rinse the pad first in the sink and run it without a disc to spin off excess water. After this the pad has absorbed enough liquid to allow the use of less compound. I also only put the compound under the disc and work in 20 sec bursts until i see the pad is fully saturated on the surface with compound.
Yea thats a good process too. Only using the 20 sec bursts help stop the disk from ever getting too hot.
I am trying to find a video on cleaning the machine. Do you think you could do a video to show how you clean your
Sure! Its actually not bad at all. But i rarely do it lmao 😂.
Hey, can you show us what you’re using as the gasket to hold the disk. Awesome video!
Thanks 😊. It’s just a microfiber towel i cut into a circle and then cut a hole in the middle of.
@@GamingRenewedLLC I commented before watching the whole video 😂😂. Thank you sir!
Lol no problem.
Just got my JFJ in and have been using the Bauer pads since I live close to two harbor freights. I’ll stick with them for now, mainly due to price range. I don’t mind cutting them and they perform beautifully. Milwaukee does seem like a decent alternative.
Yea i would say the Bauer performs better but the Milwaukee is right there with it. The cutting isn’t bad at all for the great results like you said. I also live close to harbor freight, so being able to just get a new pad same day of the Bauer is really convenient.
@@GamingRenewedLLC They seem to be clearing out the Bauer pads sadly. I have to go about 2.5 hours away to the store that has the yellow one in stock. :( I may try to find them on eBay if someone has a couple of new ones. It's the only thing I've yet to buy! Looking forward to watching this video and seeing how well the Milwaukee version of the yellow Bauer pad does.
Oh wow that is sad to hear. I may need to find a new place for them as well then
Pretty cool still looking for uk alternatives if you have any good indication would be awesome mate
I think Milwaukee is sold in the uk. So you might can find the pads. Just not familiar with stores out there. Maybe searching for the part number might help you?
AWSOME where did you buy them pads
Home depot website. Link in the description
I notice you also have plastx. How does that compare to the meguiar options you’re using?
I would say it compares good to them. I really use them interchangeably. But now i use the 3D products. I like them a little bit more but i wouldn’t say they are way better.
@@GamingRenewedLLC3D or 3M? Love watching your vids btw. Ordered Milwaukee pads today
I use the 3D products. Aat 501 and aat 502
Whats your procedure for discs with the circular scratches? I had a zelda twilight princess for wii and super mario galaxy 1 with what I consider light circular scratches. I tried just using the mcguires and the jfj buffing pad for 1 minute the scratches were basically gone but no joy. So I tried sanding 10 seconds for both course and smooth. Then 1 minute mcguires and jfj pad. Of course h2o for sanding part. I swear the disc looks amazing except for a light ring scratch in the center (I know I should be a piece of cloth under the locking nut. Anyway the smbg1 was working up until the first cut screen then disc error (btw wii is updated). With zelda I can make selections but when Its finalized and its going to load the first video crash boom. Any ideas or anything you do to recover from this? Thanks!
So by circular scratches do you mean a bunch of them? Or just one perfect circle, like how the 360 would do if you hit it while playing a game? If it’s a bunch of circular scratches, sometimes you just got someone else’s attempt at resurfacing it and it could already be destroyed from heat buildup. When a pad dries out it will leave swirls all in the disc and also make the disc get super hot.
Even if the disc looks immaculate, it can be destroyed from the heat buildup too. A lot of times the heat damage shows no physical damage at all and you will have issues like you said where the game will read but have a specific area that it always dies on. In those cases it’s nothing you can do because the data layer itself is damaged. Which is the layer sandwiched in between the disc. When we resurface, we are basically just removing blemishes from protective window cover that lets the laser go through it and read the data. The scratches make the laser bounce and it can’t penetrate to the data layer.
@@GamingRenewedLLC Yeah like the 360 style ones.
Ah. Unfortunately that is probably toast. There’s always a very slim chance you can save it with sanding but its hit or miss. That damage was done by the laser diode cutting into the disc. If the cut is deep enough it hit the data layer and that can’t be fixed.
So it’s all luck of the draw on exactly how deep the scratch was. You can make the ring itself go away, but the data in that ring is already gone. Can’t bring that back. Thats why they usually freeze in a specific place constantly.
Ahh! Thanks so much my friend! Yeah was actually able to save 2 out of 4 with just buffing. Think maybe I should not have tried to sand and maybe should waited between discs for the stupid back plate to cool down. Don't know why they went to metal. Wish there was something between jfh and the eco pro. Such a steep jump to go from $300 to $1600.
They probably use metal for the plate because all the force is applied to the plate when you close the lid. If it warped or curved in any way you wouldn’t get even contact with the pad and disc and it would miss spots in the disc or overwork one area. But yea it does hold heat between cycles if you run it back to back with no pause in between.
IMO the JFJ is far better but just has a steep learning curve. But once you get it down then you can sand, buff, and polish all with one machine. The Eco Pro only does buffing and sanding. Plus you don’t have prepaid minutes limiting your use of the machine or being locked into only buying products from Elm.
do you see any swirls? with any of these pads?
No swirls. But normally if you are getting swirls, you probably need to start using water too. A lot of times the swirls are from the pad drying out during the cycle. If you spray the disc and pads with water then apply the product, you shouldn’t get any swirls. Until you get it down i’d also suggest staying away from 2min cycles. It gives the biggest risk of swirls when you haven’t nailed down your process yet.
did you get the gamecube kit ive been wanting to watch a demo on the gamecube kit?
Not yet. Planning on it. Just haven’t pulled the trigger yet.
I found some cheap 5 inch pads on Amazon from some company called Siquk. They come in a 4 pack for like $10. I did have to trim them to fit. I'm not sure how long they'll hold up but so far I've found that the orange/red one and the blue one both seem to do a great job. The yellow one in the pack feels a lot more abrasive than the others so I haven't dared to try that yet. The last one in the pack is like a microfiber topped pad that I haven't found a use for yet.
Lol funny enough i bought those same exact pads. I just never got a chance to test them out. Thanks for the info 👍. I’ll have to give them a run
@@GamingRenewedLLC I've been messing with them and it seems like the red/orange one is great for the first 10-15 discs, and then all of a sudden it's swirl marks galore. Not sure if I did something wrong to cause it but my process didn't change throughout all that time.
EDIT: And the blue one starts to disintegrate after about 20-25 runs. Blue fuzz everywhere inside the JFJ!
Were the runs back to back? It might be from heat build up drying the pad out?
@@GamingRenewedLLC No, a handful of runs at a time with plenty of compound and water as needed. Same as I treat the OEM pads.
They were definitely better than the Temu one I tried that blew apart on the first run. Ha!
Lmao 🤣. Gotta love temu.
bought those pad, and the pad don't stick enough on the base, too big
Idk why it wouldn't. I didn't have to do anything but stick mine on. Does your pad come off or something?
@@GamingRenewedLLC the base is not large enough, not 5 in for sure, prob 4' 3/4
Yea the base is smaller than the pad, but the majority of the pad is still stuck to the base. I’ve never had any issues with it being unbalanced or coming off the base during use.