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😆 The way you screamed when you used the blending stick.

Gamblin has 4 metallic colors in oil paint. They are all metallic pigments, not mica pigments, and are all ground in alkyd medium, thus you have the solvent smell. The silver is aluminum powder, the copper is copper powder, and the gold and the bronze colors are bronze powders. There is a lot that can be done with these colors and it would be salutary to do some experiments because these colors are capable of some amazing effects. Metals in paints can be rather reactive with their mediums until they are painted out and dry. Because of those reasons I prefer mica flake myself and I usually use these kinds of colors in abstract paintings. Some amazing effects can be gotten. And under the right/wrong circumstances the metal can remain reactive even after it dries. In house paints they are usually mixed with something like a shellac which is a very different material from any kind of drying oil or alkyds. Shellacs and lacquers can be more inert once they are dry.

Williamsburg does not add materials that would keep the oil from separating from the pigment like that. There's nothing wrong with the paint unless the paint is unusable. You can actually take the trouble to take your pallette knife and mix the stuff back together. Interference pigments can make some incredible effects when mixed with transparent colors. It is worth while working with if you want different effects in your paintings. They are exceptionally useful and beautiful in abstracts. I hate to be snarky like this, but there's a lot of information available out there. And the titanium dioxide in the formulation is an extremely thin film of titanium dioxide on the mica itself. Mixing interference colors with titanium white is kind of totally useless. You can get much better effects mixing it with white with either a transparent white in oils, or you will you get a much better effect mixing those kinds of colors with white in acrylics. Opaque pigments are less dense in acrylics because of the cementitious properties of the acrylic medium, as opposed to the pellicular properties of oils. Once you experiment more you can find some absolutely amazing effects can be made with interference colors.

Also the comparable Williamsburg tube to Blockx's Venetian Red is Rosso Veneto. That's Williamsburg's version of Venetian Red. Pompeii red is very similar but warmer.

Blockx is not of more high quality than Williamsburg. They are about the same. Its really just about your preference. Blockx is triple milled to a very fine consistency. All the colors in the Blockx line will have the same consistency. Williamsburg likes for the characteristics of the pigment to show through. Its intentional and they like dont like all their colors to be extra fine which is also intentional. Williamsburg has a similar philosophy to Rublev, Michael Harding, Wallace Seymour while Blockx shares the same philosophy as Rembrandt, Mussini, Vasari, Puro, Holbein which all grind very fine. Extra fine no longer means better quality. Tinting strength is a better indicator of quality.

You can mix traditional oils and watermixable oils in the same paint and you don’t tell a diference, as long as you don't use water. I started in oils with watermixables and I found that I don't need to use water, and don't need solvents either. 😅😅😅 Now, I use my watermixables remaining stock for studies and outdoor. They seem to dry more quickly. Probably because they are cheaper than the top lines may contain a little bit of dryers, or is because of the modified linseed oil.

I don't see the purpose. Acrylics hold up forever.. oils are great too. Not enough pigment in acrylic, they'll take powdered pigment to strengthen them if not opaque enough. Golden is supposed to be good. Solvents..just don't get it on you & ventilate. If your so afraid of something, don't do it. Don't try to alter it, & ruin it on others. I like turps, linseed that smells..natural hair brushes.

Oil and water mix if you use a surfactant. That’s why you can wash oil from brushes with soap and water.

Sorry if I am requesting too much. And don't feel the need to say my name. I don't mind if you don't

Also, Can you in the future try Holbein Artist oil colors and compare to the vernet? Sorry if I am requesting a lot, I like to share several ideas i get

Can you compare genuine manganese blue with Golden artist acrylics Manganese Blue hue? If you ask, I'm sure they'll send you a sample for a video. I'm curious how similar it is.

I wonder, what kind of pad is it where you put the paint on? Is it like a palette pad?

Cally..in your opinion, overall colors..what brand is the thickest with most pigment content?

The mineral green deep is cobalt chromite green so cally PLEASE USE GLOVES 😂 as your friend from Ireland please be careful. Love all your videos 😎

Try slowly mixing with ivory black. One of the special characteristics of genuine naples is that, though it is very bright, mixtures into black are a fairly soft green. Same i feel with the PBr24 based "naples yellows". Old Holland Naples yellow extra and Michael Hardings Naples Yellow (the non genuine version) are both PBr24 Schmincke does a few yellows with PBr24 that reach this brightness.

There are various shades of Naples Yellow. The same applies to Lead Tin Yellow.

BTW, I'm not Italian, but I'm pretty sure it's pronounced "Zeekee".

Williamsburg is a mixed colour to replicate an earlier one. Naple's yellow comes in different shades a closely held production secret enabled quite bright versions (though not as bright as cadmium) The lack of this hidden process produced more ochre like colours which was what were available to most makers back in the day. The brighter pigment versions are now available, but most paint makers don't use them, possibly due to their expense and toxic nature. To further complicate matters one of the modern replacements (PBr24) also contains antimony and is sometimes sold as Antimony yellow, but I only ever seen this modern pigment in more orange shades of yellow.

Can you try Holbein aritst oil color (and compare to vernet you got)

Genuine naples yellow is a lead based paint. Edit: yellow antimony is naples yellow.

Naples yellow genuine is a very bright yellow. It is also very dangerous if you consume it at all. Fee-ren-zay

You are such a delightful person and so much fun to listen to 🥰

Mars red and Venetian red are usually some form of pigment red 101. If it's made from a natural source it's pigment read 102. Both sources have many many different colors. Pigment red 101 can be from almost black to a purple to a pinkish red to a brick red, all of those very opaque. There are also some gorgeous transparent shades of pigment red 101.

I think it is pronounced blocks. Sometimes artist prefer older colors because some of the older colors are made with very different pigments from what we use today. For whatever reason, I don't know, perhaps it's because they have some kind of faith that paints were made better in the old days.

Can you try Holbein artist oil colors (you've already tried the vernet)

Old Holland and to a lesser extend gamblin's stiffness is due to high pigmentation which is exactly what you want as a professional artist but just because less goes a long way but also because it gives you a flexibility that others don't offer. You can simply add your oil/medium to make your paint EXACTLY how you want it for each and every application, your starting with a perfect base which let's you go the full spectrum as far as thick full pigment mode or smooth/creamy down to a more oily runny thin paint, while the other brands that might be perfect or a little oily out of the tube will have less options available since you can't add more pigment in them to fix them. Im a OH guy but I also have MH, Williamsburg, Gamblin, Blue Ridge and a couple others to get colors that might not be offered by OH

Would you be able to review Schmincke Norma professional and Mussini oil paints?

It’s one of my favorites!

Can you see how Golden artist acrylics "Manganese blue" Compares to genuine manganese blue? I know it's normally not your thing, but I'm curious how similar the golden version is to the genuine

Looks like it would be a very good Desert mountain colour!

I've used these back in college in the mid-90's. They are great for students on a tight budget. I still have the paintings made from these that have stand the test of time.

Although I'm off topic. I'm running out of MH cerulean. Do you have a recommendation for another brand's cerulean.

SoHo is so horrible. I only buy it for the kids. They believe in using GOBBS of paint.

That color looks like the cobalt green Pg26 mixed with marble paint amongst other things.

Beautiful i need them

Thanks for your awesome review...do you like OLD HOLLAND OIL PAINTS? Curious...thinking of investing in some, though more of a watercolour painter...do you use linseed and turpentine with your old Holland oils?

Have you heard of Picasso Studio brand oil paints? Seems to be a good value and and I have a few 50ml tubes on the way. When i search up on its origins, nothing seems to come up

Can you try BLOCKX oil paint? Also, can you do specific color reviews (even if from the same brand)

Look like a poop. 😂😂😂 Black is: Carbon Black, Prussian Blue. Yellow is: Tartrazine Lake, Brown Iron Oxide, Synthetic Iron Oxide Red.

The oil coming out of the tube like that is a result of too much oil in the paint. I’ve never once had that issue with Michael Harding or Old Holland for example, no matter how long the tubes have sat. That being said, it’s not a huge deal. Just an inconvenience.

"It is more than 5 ml according to my scale" ok then

literally in my cart

You like this one or the other Japanese brand better?

Hey Cally! You should try out quinacridone magenta! I use the W&N one and it is a but of a game changer for mixing purples. It's sooo worth it! Especially with cerulean blue 😎

Garbage noises!

To have a fair comparison if the Winton hue one has the same shade, you should have put the white and yellow less in it. It's student quality so there is less pigment in it, that makes that other colors make the color shift much faster then professional quality paints. Professional quality you need to add much of other colors to get shift, because it's fully loaded with pigments. Ahh interesting to see the old winsor and newton! Lovely!❤ Btw you don't need to feel bad about the Michael Harding one. It's standard. W&N puts something else in their paint too and is more fluid then the professional quality paints. Michael Harding is not artist but professional quality. There is student-artist-professional. Where Old Holland, Michael Harding, Hobein etc belong in the Professional line and W&N pro, Rembrandt, Gamblin, Schmincke belongs in the artist quality. It use from both qualities in many brands interchangbly. Michael Hardings paint uses only oil and full loaded pigment, so that seperates from eachother and the Michael Harding comes especially in the beginning out like a blot of pigment and oil, when mixing with palette knife it gets homogeneous. But when you use the Michael Harding compared to W&N it's much more pigmented and the colors don't budge. You need a tiny bit to go a long way, more then the W&N ones. I personally don't like the W&N ones i have, because from all the artist and professional qualities i have their are the most fluidy ones. They are not really buttery as the others are. 1 only tried also one Lucas artists quality, only that one is more fluidly then W&N. All othee brands are more buttery and more pigment loaded.

Hello. I always enjoy watching it. The text next to the barcode says, "Do not put it in your mouth or eyes. Wash your hands after use. Keep out of reach of children." The pigment is ultramarine = PB29. Did you also buy Kusakabe and Mazda?

Dico had a 0.1% pigment to 99.9% oil mixture

What other colors you get?

Cobalt teal oil paint review plzz