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Glad you enjoyed the videos. To your question: at about timestamp 8:47, you'll see me gluing narrow strips of silkspan along the edges of the sail. These are the tabling hems. They should be applied to both sides of the sail. The silkspan I used in that video was about 1-1/2 thousandths thick. If you apply the tabling to both sides, the edges of the sail will be about 4 or 5 thousandths thick when you're done. At that point, if you exercise care, you should have no trouble lacing the sail to the spars. All the corners of the sail should also be reenforced, adding more strength to those parts of the sail coming under the most stress. If you want to see how you can attach mast hoops to the sail, I suggest you look at Part Two of the Emma C. Berry video. At about the 15:48 mark, you'll get another look at applying details to the sail and see my method for lacing the sail to the mast hoops. Hope this helps. Tom

Thks very much. I am still wondering how to attach the “foot” of the sail to the lower boom and to the lower length of the “gaff” boom. Are these portions laced to the boom &gaff? I get the rings positioned around the mast and from the throat to the head of the sail. By the way I live in Noank and attend the historical society meetings held a few times a year. avid sport fishermen and sailor. Thanks for your patience…

Just realized you lace sail to spar.. pls excuse do you use a curved needle to perform the lacing ?

@@michaeldwyer7615 No curved needle. Just a small sewing needle. As for attaching the sail to the spars, there is usually an eyebolt installed at the inboard and outboard ends of the spar to attach the sail. Start the installation by making a hole in the forward end on the foot. Make the hole with the needle, but make sure to ream it out just slightly because you are going to run the needle and thread through this same hole two or three times. Once you have the hole attach you line to it with any simple know, glue the end a trim off the excess line. From here it is just a matter of ""stitching the sail to the eyebolt". After about three turns, cinch it up with a clove hitch and repeat the process for the other attachment points. Check out Building a Whaleboat, Episode 13 at about timestamp 7:50. You should be able to see how the sail in that video is attached. Good luck. T

Thanks for writing. Glad they proved helpful. Good luck with the build. T

Thanks for all your comment, Ed. Glad you're enjoying the videos. Tom

Hi Ed. Glad you enjoyed the video. To answer your question directly, 1:32 scale is convenient to work with because all the math is easy. For example, 1"= 1/32". So, something 4" long at scale would be 4/32", or 1/8". That's the easy part. What might be a bit more concerning for someone new to the craft is the plank on frame, or in this case, plank on bulkhead construction style. I don't know how comprehensive the instructions that come with the kit are, but if they don't adequately and plainly explain the concept of planking a hull, it could be an exercise in frustration. Another look at the section of Part One that deals with the hull is a glaring example of someone who did not get the idea. I went to the Model Expo site and saw the E.C.B. model on sale for a very reasonable price. But you may want to consider a kit with a solid hull before getting into the much more complex processes of plank on bulkhead building. Keep in mind also, there are some not-so-simple structures on the inside you'll also have to deal with. If the basic hull building does not go smoothly, these other interior details might become problematic. My comments are in no way meant to deter or discourage. Just the opposite. If you go into a project fore warned you're fore armed. Always a better place to start. Good luck, and thanks again for watching. Tom

Thanks. So glad you enjoyed the series. As far as the book goes, it is only now in the early stages of design and edit, so sadly, it will be a while before anyone see anything between covers. But, thanks for the interest and support. Tom

Not many people know that song. You recognize it then, yes?

Do you know that tune? Not many people do. Thanks for writing. Tom

Thank you, Maestro. Tom

Out of 131,000 views, I've never had anyone comment they were confused. What's the source of your confusion. Maybe we can clear it up....

The little torch I use is just a mini butane torch. They are available at Home Depot. The solder I use is silver bearing solder sold through Micro Mark under the name, "Stay Brite". That's the easy Part. The taps and dies, at the small sizes you see in the video, are part of a shop-made set I was lucky enough to get at a small tool auction. The only suggestion I have is to try finding an outfit that makes and sells tools for watchmakers. They could possibly have sets that small. Hope this helps.

@@shipmodelguy thank you, Tom!! I appreciate the quick response!

Glad you enjoyed it.

Glad you like the video. As far as finding someone near you to repair your model, I usually suggest a couple of things: 1. Google maritime museums in your area. They won't do the work, but they sometimes maintain a list of people who do. Keep in mind, this is not an endorsement of their skills. It is just a list. 2. Go to Google again. This time try ship model clubs near you. Very often these clubs will have a couple of members that do repair work and may be able to help. 3. If you live in an area that has a hobby shop-a REAL hobby shop--no Hobby Lobby or Michael's. Go in and talk to the people behind the counter. They know their customers and may be able to steer you toward someone. What to know if and when you find someone: Repairing a person's model is almost nothing like building a model for yourself. It requires a very different approach and mind mindset. If you're not sure what that is, I suggest you look at a couple of my videos that deal with repairs and refurbishing of people's models. Here's a link to my channel. There are about 5 or 6 videos that deal directly with repairs: th-cam.com/channels/7JA3n2QuMoR2b68BzfxSoA.html This will give you some idea of what to look for in a potential ship model repair guy. Hope this helps, Tom.

I'm including this link to a repair video I did a few years back. th-cam.com/video/leNeRsXcSzw/w-d-xo.html If you go to timestamp 25:07, you see what I mean about the repairman's mind set. Makes it a lot easier than listening to me flapping my gums ad nauseum.

Thanks. Hope this helps. Tom

Glad it was helpful.

Muito obrigado

Thanks again. Tom

Sorry the imperial measurements are causing you so much trouble. There are a couple of things you could do to ease the pain that won't cause too much loss of scale fidelity. The scales I work in are all based in inches, ex: 1:48, or 1/4"=1'. And, they were established long before either of us were born. Case in point: British Dockyard models were generally built to 1:48 scale. There are plenty of metric/imperial conversion tables on the web. Here's a link to one; www.epsilonengineer.com/inch-to-metric-table.html There are plenty more if this one doesn't fit your needs. I have one I keep for reference and it does come in handy from time to time. As far as dealing with thousandths of an inch, the solution for that is pretty painless also. You can buy an inexpensive pair of digital calipers, either from the local hardware store or online. I have several pair in my shop. They all measure in thousandths of an inch, or hundredths of mms. If you need to know what .061" equals in mms, just hit the little button, and faster than you can say "Bob's your uncle", you'll know it's 1.55mm. As far as my including or converting to metric for future videos, that is not very likely, since I am no longer producing any more tutorial style videos. If you need more info or clarification, feel free to contact me through my website: tjlauria.com/contact

I don't know if they will ship internationally, but Bluejacket Shipcrafters in Searsport, Maine does carry silkspan. You'll find it on their website. Here's a link: www.bluejacketinc.com/nylon-thread-parrel-beads-glass-sailcloth-silkspan-soft-brass-wire-stanchion-wire-steel-wire-twisted-metal-wire/ Write or call them. They're usually pretty helpful and easy to deal with.

Glad it helped!

Thanks, but I can't take credit for it. It was in the Nautical Research Guild's book, "Ship Modelers' Shop Notes, Vol 1. Both volumes 1 and 2 are filled with great ideas. Might be worth a trip to their website to have a look. Thanks, Tom

Thanks for writing. Sadly, the book is still months away from publication, but I'm sure Seawatch will let folks know when it becomes available. Thanks, Tom

I don't mind at all. It's why I started doing the videos---to be shared. Glad you found the info helpful. Tom

Basically, you've got it right. The strips can be cut from the excess painted silkspan. That keeps the color consistent. As for applying the strips to both sides, it depends on if you are going to furl the sail or have it set. If you are showing the sail set, then apply the strips to both sides. If you're going to furl the sail, the silkspan will behave a little better if you only apply the strips to one side. Hope that helps. The one exception is the luff. Since, in most cases, there will be sail hoops attached here, it is better to have the strip on both side to give that area a bit of "beef" to stand up to sewing on the mast hoops. Hope that helps.

My "go-to" rigging line is linen, if I have it in the sizes I need. But, I freely use Chinese Suture Silk, or cotton when I don't have the linen. I have been very lucky to acquire a good supply of linen ( originally manufactured mostly as fishing line) in sizes down to about 8 or 10 thousandths. and I have some linen threads down to about 4 thousandths. I've been collecting the stuff for the last four and a half decades and, as I said, I've had some very good luck in mt quest. As far as sizes go, that's dictated by the scale of the project. So I can't be specifically helpful there. When in doubt, go smaller. It is important to make sure you accurately scale out the cordage you need for a project. I've lost count of how many models I've seen that have their appearance ruined by over-sized rigging. So, at the risk of repeating myself, when in doubt, go smaller.

You’re right, Woody. But, I guess you didn’t see my pinned comment where I explain the reason for that. In spite of the hairy knuckles, I hope you got something out of it

Thanks for watching.

Bob, Thanks for the reply. Since you wrote, I've noticed one or two more videos of his with variations on that "50s theme in the thumbnails. So clearly I hold no influence over the man. But. life goes on. I agree with your comments about the younger people seeming to loose interest in something like ship modeling. I belong to a ship model club in Boston and we've tried to develop programs aimed at younger folks. We've had some minor success, but it is an uphill slog. Most of our members are above retirement age. Let's face how many people who aren't retired have the time to devote to such a demanding craft, whether as a pro or hobbyist? Glad you're taking it up. Second acts are shorter, but it's usually where all the good stuff happens. Keep the faith, Brother.

Don't know when that might be, but don't give up hope. Thanks for watching. Tom

Thank you for watching. And yes, I too, find Quinn's unpretentious manner and humor. refreshing. And, as I said in the video, I've learned a lot watching her.

I think you may have mis-interpreted something I said. This boat builder was not building these vessels, so this would have not been a salesman's model, especially in light of the fact that the model is over six feet long. It wouldn't have been what one might consider "portable". What I was posseting was the possibility the boat builder was commissioned to build the model of the steamship for the exhibit at the Chicago Exposition in 1893. It was on some components of the model that I found the business cards, etc. The actual steamship was built in 1838 by a company that, I believe, was in New Jersey.

I haven't ruled it out.

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching. Tom

Because of the way I build, I have to shape the exterior first and carve the interior to that shape. As for getting a consistent thickness for the hull, remember, I've built 55 of these things. A little practice and muscle memory go a long way in rendering a hull to fairly consistent proportions. If I understand you, the interior would be carved first, but how would I know where the exterior shape is, if I haven't carved it yet.

It's been years since I've looked at the first episode, but I have a memory that's exactly what I did: copy the first half, paste it. invert it and merge.

Você é muito bem-vindo

Tim, are referring to the Emma C. Berry kit from Model Shipways? I'm pretty sure Mystic Seaport has the plans for the schooner rig, so it shouldn't be too difficult to make the conversion.

@@shipmodelguy Tom, thanks for the info. Tim

Thanks, Tim. I appreciate you taking the time to comment. I don't think this model will be in the 2024 USSCMSG show, as it's currently on display at the the Jinishian Gallery in Connecticut. Hopefully to soon go to a good home...

As I mentioned in the video, I never say never, but right at the moment, I'm kind of enjoying not having anything "on my plate". But one never knows, do one?