Hi Tom, I'm also new to this hobby, it's wonderful-kinda impressed that you stand. I have a 24' x 24' shop space with 10' ceiling with heat, air conditioning and little kitchenette in a corner-I'm spoiled. I'm also retireing at the end of the year and excited to spend time in there. What caught my attention were two your tools, the rolling mill and the homemade thickness dander, I would see how that comes in handy. Would you ever consider explaining how you built that or even maybe show how you built I've watched many of your videos and you have a calm, clear and concise way of explaining what you've chosen to teach. Thanks for those videos, I've learned a lot and truly appreciate your efforts
The thickness sander and the rolling mill are two tools I inherited from ship model builders who crossed the bar. As far as demonstrating the building of either of them, I don't have the machines needed nor am I enough of a machinist to pull it off. However, there is a way ahead! With regards to the sander, there are two out there and both are very well made machines. One is from Ship Ahoy Models in Saugus, Massachusetts and the other is available through Jim Byrnes in Florida (www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/index5.html). As for the rolling mill on pages 40 and 41 of Ship Modelers Shop Notes, Volume One, published by the Nautical Research Guild (thenrgstore.org/collections/books-and-practicums), you'll find all the info you need to build your own. Or, you can take it to a machine shop and have them do, if you don't have the tools for that kind of work. Hope this helps. Tom
Tom, thanks for the tour. You have certainly organized your ten pounds of shop very neatly into your five pounds of space. Love your high tech exhaust system. Your Byrnes' saw is a later generation than mine, so it has some good improvements. However, I have never regretted buying mine and it is certainly capable of doing all that I have ever asked it to do. Have been able to rip 1:48 scale pieces down to 3/4" x 5/8" out of boxwood, holly and Swiss pear, and it is also capable of cutting 3/4" hardwood.
Dear Tom, you're content is so informative and interesting for people like me who are new to the modelling scene. Seeing your workshop was amazing: I hope I get something set up like this one day. Thank you for sharing this!
Tom, Great to see your shop where all your masterpieces are created. Glad to see your well ! I can truly say that I do miss the shop at the Museum. I’am like a fish out of water. Hope to see you if we have a May or June guild meeting. Tim Murphy
Glad you liked the video, Michael. I'm pretty good with an airbrush, but my use of airbrush is limited to mostly getting a LIGHT, EVEN finish THAT PERSERVES DETAIL. All the atmosphere" and weathering I apply with paint brushes and washes. If you want the text book lesson on airbrushing, ( layering techniques, shading, etc.), a lot of the plastic guys, especially the one who build tanks and armor have all goin' on. If you haven't seen it already, Q and A, Part 1 ( th-cam.com/video/_osyLcFF7ug/w-d-xo.html) has a little airbrushing in it (around 15:30), but I think you're probably looking for something a bit more comprehensive. So, I would recommend searching for some of those armor guys. Hope this helps and I hope you'll keep watching. Tom
After about 30 years in plastic modeling, and about 15 years in 1: 1 woodworking, I got the idea to enter the world of naval wood modeling. With a life-size wood workshop, a modeling workshop for 1:12, 1:24 and 1:20 mainly cars and motorcycles, 1:64 dioramas, resin casting experience, scratch brass work, it would seem that everything was fine. I had been procrastinating the decision for about six months. But after seeing the talent that you have, the results that you obtain and your dedication for sharing your knowledge, I have decided to try it. I don't want to invest big money in this. That is, buy a kit and put it together. I ask for an opinion about what I have planned. I want to do everything from below. My pick is the Baltimore Cliper Berbice from Shipyard magazine. Use the model as a guide and scale it to 1:48 (originally 1:96) and use materials as close to reality. The doubts I have are: Is it too big a model to start with? Should I start with something more basic? Is a paper model a good start? Should I look for other sources or references? What are the most common problems for a beginner? What should we be alert to? Thank you for your channel and the passion you have for this art. After watching hundreds of naval modeling videos on youtube, yours is what really inspired me. Thank you.
Oliverio, I apologize for not responding to this. I haven't checked the comments on this video and only just now have I seen it. Let me take a run at your questions. Is the model too big? In this case, size doesn't count, complexity does. It is always a good idea to start simple to see how the principles of a craft work and are intertwined. A simple kit like Bluejacket Shipcrafters' Grand Banks Dory is a great way to get your feet wet in wooden modeling and end up with a very pleasing model. The Baltimore Clipper is a pretty vessel, but unless you are familiar with construction methods and rigging practices of the period, it could become an exercise in frustration. Is a paper model a good start? Not if you want to get familiar with techniques for wooden or mixed media construction. Card and paper models are great fun and you can achieve nice results, but there is little common ground between the two methods. What are the most common problems for beginners? The biggest problem I see for a lot of beginning ship modelers is lack of knowledge of their specific subject and relying on the kit manufacturer to provide accurate information. With the internet being a part of all our lives, doing research has gotten so much easier. In many cases, just an hour or two of web searching can get you enough information to build a really convincing model. But do try a corroborate your findings before including them in your model. And good old fashioned books are still an enjoyable way to learn. Another problem is inappropriate materials. There are many woods that just don't belong in scale ship modeling. Oak, walnut, mahogany some of the most common offenders. You can't go wrong with woods like basswood, poplar, soft maple, white holy and cherry. You have asked some pretty complex questions, here. And my answers are only the tip of the iceberg, but I think this should, at least, get you started-if I haven't waited too long to answer them. Again, I am sorry for the delay. Good luck, Tom
More like 10 lbs of talent in a 5 lb shop Tom, but that's far from full. What run out issue are you having with the lathe? Maybe I can make some suggestions. Is it the actual spindle that's running out or just the chuck?
I'm pretty sure it's in the the three jaw chuck, itself. It's the one that come standard on these lathes and I'm certain the quality is hit or miss. I managed to get rid of most of it, but any suggestions would be welcome. Of course the obvious thing to do is pry my wallet open and buy a high quality chuck.
@@shipmodelguy Well it depends on how your chuck is mounted to the spindle. "If" you have a chuck that uses a bolt on back plate it can be re-machined to allow a slight bit of movement between the face of the back plate and the rear face of the chuck. Loosening the bolts then indicating the part true by tapping on the side of the chuck until the part is concentric, then re-tightening the bolts will work if you have that style of mounting. There made commercially and are generally known as a Set Tru or Set True chuck. Those also have the rear O.D. of the chuck drilled and tapped in 4 places to use adjusting bolts to help move the chuck body and off set it a bit to the back plate. But most chucks can be modified in a home shop to do the same. Direct fitting chucks without that back plate generally can't though. Taking the chuck apart for a detailed cleaning and re-lubrication if it's never been done can also help. Doing that is also general maintenance anyway. In the real world a 3 jaw chuck is more of a speed and convenience item. If the work can be fully turned and then parted off as a completed part then within reason it doesn't really matter how far the chuck is out for concentricity since the finished part will be as accurate as the spindle bearings allow. While I've got some very good low run out 3 jaw chucks (expen$ive) if I really need it correct and the part does have to be moved and reversed in the chuck to complete it I'll use a 4 jaw independent chuck and dial the part in. It takes a bit of practice but 2-3 minutes at most and the part can be set concentric to well under .001" All you need to remember is have the indicator square and at 90 degrees to the parts O.D. then in on the jaws where the part shows high and out on the jaws where it shows low. All machine tools are inaccurate and have deflection issues due to cutting loads to greater or lesser amounts depending on the size, quality and condition of the machine. It's then up to the operator to adopt whatever techniques are needed to work around those inaccuracy's until it will then produce what you want.
@@turningpoint6643 Well, that is very detailed. I have the type with the studs on the chuck body and they bolt to to a plate, so the first scenario you describe should work. Thanks for the help.
@@shipmodelguy Two of my lathes have the same mounting system. I'd try doing a Google search using various terms for set true chucks and on some of the home machining forums. There should be more than enough there as a guide about exactly how to do it. Most likely your average part size is pretty small and with a fair amount of duplicate parts for ship building. An ER 20, 25 or up to an ER 32 collet system and done the same way as a set true chuck by adding a back plate might be very worthwhile using one of these littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2532&category=-421559299 and a set of collets. That ones for the 32 sized collets but there's others around that should work for the smaller ER collet sizes. Unfortunately you pretty much have to buy industrial quality and price to get low run out collets since the cheap ones are a big gamble for exactly what you'll get. So a set true type mount can then be set for the one collet size your using for a run of parts. One downside is the collet has to be marked so it fully tightens up in the same position each time to maintain that pre set low run out position in the collet chuck.
@@turningpoint6643 I have been resisting going to a collet system because of the expense, but I may have to bite the bullet and go all in. I do have an OLD watch makers lathe, but it has no compound slide, so I can only use hand held tools for that one. And, once again, the cost of a high precision compound would be prohibitive, at this point. My chuck has about .003" run out. If I can knock that down a bit with the info you've given me, I'll be a happy camper.
Thank mr Tom, to show us your very organised laboratory! It give us several ideas in order to increase our hobby room. Best regards from Genoa Italy
Hi Tom,
I'm also new to this hobby, it's wonderful-kinda impressed that you stand. I have a 24' x 24' shop space with 10' ceiling with heat, air conditioning and little kitchenette in a corner-I'm spoiled. I'm also retireing at the end of the year and excited to spend time in there.
What caught my attention were two your tools, the rolling mill and the homemade thickness dander, I would see how that comes in handy.
Would you ever consider explaining how you built that or even maybe show how you built
I've watched many of your videos and you have a calm, clear and concise way of explaining what you've chosen to teach. Thanks for those videos, I've learned a lot and truly appreciate your efforts
The thickness sander and the rolling mill are two tools I inherited from ship model builders who crossed the bar. As far as demonstrating the building of either of them, I don't have the machines needed nor am I enough of a machinist to pull it off. However, there is a way ahead! With regards to the sander, there are two out there and both are very well made machines. One is from Ship Ahoy Models in Saugus, Massachusetts and the other is available through Jim Byrnes in Florida (www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/index5.html).
As for the rolling mill on pages 40 and 41 of Ship Modelers Shop Notes, Volume One, published by the Nautical Research Guild (thenrgstore.org/collections/books-and-practicums), you'll find all the info you need to build your own. Or, you can take it to a machine shop and have them do, if you don't have the tools for that kind of work. Hope this helps. Tom
My shop-on-wheels is all of 55 square feet! I can't count how many jobs that trailer has gotten me.
You little thickness sander is so cute!
Necessity is a real motha, ain't it...
Tom, thanks for the tour. You have certainly organized your ten pounds of shop very neatly into your five pounds of space. Love your high tech exhaust system. Your Byrnes' saw is a later generation than mine, so it has some good improvements. However, I have never regretted buying mine and it is certainly capable of doing all that I have ever asked it to do. Have been able to rip 1:48 scale pieces down to 3/4" x 5/8" out of boxwood, holly and Swiss pear, and it is also capable of cutting 3/4" hardwood.
It was my visit to your shop that convinced me to buy the Byrnes machine. It's my workhorse.
Nice to see your shop Igot a lot of good ideals . Wish more people would video their shops. thanks again
You bet
Dear Tom, you're content is so informative and interesting for people like me who are new to the modelling scene. Seeing your workshop was amazing: I hope I get something set up like this one day.
Thank you for sharing this!
Awesome, thank you!
Tom, Great to see your shop where all your masterpieces are created. Glad to see your well ! I can truly say that I do miss the shop at the Museum. I’am like a fish out of water. Hope to see you if we have a May or June guild meeting. Tim Murphy
Hi Tim,
Thanks for writing. Hope you stay well and see at a Guild meeting soon.
Brilliant organization! Thanks for the tour Tom.
No worries!
Amazing shop tour. Thank you. BRAVO ZULU
Thanks for watching!
Hi Tom - Great video! Love the shop. I'm still new at the hobby (on my third build). Could you do a video on using an airbrush?
Glad you liked the video, Michael.
I'm pretty good with an airbrush, but my use of airbrush is limited to mostly getting a LIGHT, EVEN finish THAT PERSERVES DETAIL. All the atmosphere" and weathering I apply with paint brushes and washes. If you want the text book lesson on airbrushing, ( layering techniques, shading, etc.), a lot of the plastic guys, especially the one who build tanks and armor have all goin' on. If you haven't seen it already, Q and A, Part 1 ( th-cam.com/video/_osyLcFF7ug/w-d-xo.html) has a little airbrushing in it (around 15:30), but I think you're probably looking for something a bit more comprehensive. So, I would recommend searching for some of those armor guys. Hope this helps and I hope you'll keep watching.
Tom
@@shipmodelguy Thanks! Will check it out.
Excellent workplace!
Thank you very much!
Master,congratulazioni for your laburator.is beautyful and complately 👍🇮🇹
Thank you very much!
Veri good ...👍🏻👌
Yes! The "Coffee Cup!"
Oh yes, the coffee cup. And it's been replaced with a larger one.
After about 30 years in plastic modeling, and about 15 years in 1: 1 woodworking, I got the idea to enter the world of naval wood modeling. With a life-size wood workshop, a modeling workshop for 1:12, 1:24 and 1:20 mainly cars and motorcycles, 1:64 dioramas, resin casting experience, scratch brass work, it would seem that everything was fine.
I had been procrastinating the decision for about six months. But after seeing the talent that you have, the results that you obtain and your dedication for sharing your knowledge, I have decided to try it.
I don't want to invest big money in this. That is, buy a kit and put it together. I ask for an opinion about what I have planned.
I want to do everything from below. My pick is the Baltimore Cliper Berbice from Shipyard magazine. Use the model as a guide and scale it to 1:48 (originally 1:96) and use materials as close to reality.
The doubts I have are:
Is it too big a model to start with? Should I start with something more basic?
Is a paper model a good start? Should I look for other sources or references?
What are the most common problems for a beginner? What should we be alert to?
Thank you for your channel and the passion you have for this art. After watching hundreds of naval modeling videos on youtube, yours is what really inspired me. Thank you.
Oliverio,
I apologize for not responding to this. I haven't checked the comments on this video and only just now have I seen it.
Let me take a run at your questions.
Is the model too big?
In this case, size doesn't count, complexity does. It is always a good idea to start simple to see how the principles of a craft work and are intertwined. A simple kit like Bluejacket Shipcrafters' Grand Banks Dory is a great way to get your feet wet in wooden modeling and end up with a very pleasing model. The Baltimore Clipper is a pretty vessel, but unless you are familiar with construction methods and rigging practices of the period, it could become an exercise in frustration.
Is a paper model a good start?
Not if you want to get familiar with techniques for wooden or mixed media construction. Card and paper models are great fun and you can achieve nice results, but there is little common ground between the two methods.
What are the most common problems for beginners?
The biggest problem I see for a lot of beginning ship modelers is lack of knowledge of their specific subject and relying on the kit manufacturer to provide accurate information. With the internet being a part of all our lives, doing research has gotten so much easier. In many cases, just an hour or two of web searching can get you enough information to build a really convincing model. But do try a corroborate your findings before including them in your model. And good old fashioned books are still an enjoyable way to learn.
Another problem is inappropriate materials. There are many woods that just don't belong in scale ship modeling. Oak, walnut, mahogany some of the most common offenders. You can't go wrong with woods like basswood, poplar, soft maple, white holy and cherry.
You have asked some pretty complex questions, here. And my answers are only the tip of the iceberg, but I think this should, at least, get you started-if I haven't waited too long to answer them. Again, I am sorry for the delay.
Good luck,
Tom
Yea I have HMS Victory model on one table and r/c stuff on the other .
I know how you feel. I turned my garage into a workshop... not enough space.
Yeah. My garage is where I do the non-model woodworking. And that one's a bit tight, as well.
More like 10 lbs of talent in a 5 lb shop Tom, but that's far from full. What run out issue are you having with the lathe? Maybe I can make some suggestions. Is it the actual spindle that's running out or just the chuck?
I'm pretty sure it's in the the three jaw chuck, itself. It's the one that come standard on these lathes and I'm certain the quality is hit or miss. I managed to get rid of most of it, but any suggestions would be welcome. Of course the obvious thing to do is pry my wallet open and buy a high quality chuck.
@@shipmodelguy Well it depends on how your chuck is mounted to the spindle. "If" you have a chuck that uses a bolt on back plate it can be re-machined to allow a slight bit of movement between the face of the back plate and the rear face of the chuck. Loosening the bolts then indicating the part true by tapping on the side of the chuck until the part is concentric, then re-tightening the bolts will work if you have that style of mounting. There made commercially and are generally known as a Set Tru or Set True chuck. Those also have the rear O.D. of the chuck drilled and tapped in 4 places to use adjusting bolts to help move the chuck body and off set it a bit to the back plate. But most chucks can be modified in a home shop to do the same. Direct fitting chucks without that back plate generally can't though.
Taking the chuck apart for a detailed cleaning and re-lubrication if it's never been done can also help. Doing that is also general maintenance anyway. In the real world a 3 jaw chuck is more of a speed and convenience item. If the work can be fully turned and then parted off as a completed part then within reason it doesn't really matter how far the chuck is out for concentricity since the finished part will be as accurate as the spindle bearings allow. While I've got some very good low run out 3 jaw chucks (expen$ive) if I really need it correct and the part does have to be moved and reversed in the chuck to complete it I'll use a 4 jaw independent chuck and dial the part in. It takes a bit of practice but 2-3 minutes at most and the part can be set concentric to well under .001" All you need to remember is have the indicator square and at 90 degrees to the parts O.D. then in on the jaws where the part shows high and out on the jaws where it shows low. All machine tools are inaccurate and have deflection issues due to cutting loads to greater or lesser amounts depending on the size, quality and condition of the machine. It's then up to the operator to adopt whatever techniques are needed to work around those inaccuracy's until it will then produce what you want.
@@turningpoint6643 Well, that is very detailed. I have the type with the studs on the chuck body and they bolt to to a plate, so the first scenario you describe should work. Thanks for the help.
@@shipmodelguy Two of my lathes have the same mounting system. I'd try doing a Google search using various terms for set true chucks and on some of the home machining forums. There should be more than enough there as a guide about exactly how to do it.
Most likely your average part size is pretty small and with a fair amount of duplicate parts for ship building. An ER 20, 25 or up to an ER 32 collet system and done the same way as a set true chuck by adding a back plate might be very worthwhile using one of these littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2532&category=-421559299 and a set of collets. That ones for the 32 sized collets but there's others around that should work for the smaller ER collet sizes. Unfortunately you pretty much have to buy industrial quality and price to get low run out collets since the cheap ones are a big gamble for exactly what you'll get. So a set true type mount can then be set for the one collet size your using for a run of parts. One downside is the collet has to be marked so it fully tightens up in the same position each time to maintain that pre set low run out position in the collet chuck.
@@turningpoint6643 I have been resisting going to a collet system because of the expense, but I may have to bite the bullet and go all in. I do have an OLD watch makers lathe, but it has no compound slide, so I can only use hand held tools for that one. And, once again, the cost of a high precision compound would be prohibitive, at this point.
My chuck has about .003" run out. If I can knock that down a bit with the info you've given me, I'll be a happy camper.