วีดีโอ

I've been using magnifying glasses haha didint know this existed. Thank you!

great video! would you say getting something like a budget lens like a vespid or a nissi would be better then using the photography lens ? I also use the fx3 and 24-70 GM 1 for most of my projects , and oh man I really noticed the cinema lenses you used as examples were crazy pop, looked real good! I can't afford those but I could afford a 35mm nissi or vespid , what you think !! thanks

Lord the image this little camera puts out is impressive. Awesome work on this man!

Tou were fantastic to work with ❤

Thank you so much! I’m a beginner filmmaker and also very broke 😂

The final cut looks worth the budget and effort investment you put in. Shows highly competent, effective directing.

Well, can't say I saw that coming...

1:55 it's also okay to refine the lighting on your talent differently depending on the view of the camera. lighting continuity is not nearly as important of the shot composition. And it can be better to have more contrast on a face in a wide shot and more subtlety for the close up.

what do people think about the 7artisans vision cine lenses?

What was the nd filter on your master

are most of the scenes wide open? looks amazing!!

what da f*ck

Geez, Could you like please break down how you filmed this? I know this might have took a long time lol

that was dope bro

But.. the Leica R's ARE photography lenses, just rehoused, it doesn't change their look. Also your chosen 'representative' of photography lenses is a *wide open* zoom with a 1/4 diffusion filter? You say it looks sharp but it doesn't! It looks flat and washed out, because of course it does! I just don't think this is really a photography lens vs cine lens comparison at all. I think this vid should be titled "Do primes stopped down look sharper and more contrasty than a wide open zoom with a 1/4 diffusion filter?" cause surely that's all it's showing. Maybe you should be comparing perhaps a 35mm GM prime, stopped down to 2.4 or something to a comparable cine prime like the ultra prime.

this is is the first video i watched where the "cheap" gear is actually cheap and not like 200$

why every short film i see on youtube has to have some kinda violent wow factor.

you shots are amazing, on your fx3 do you set your picture profile detail to -7 too?

Cash or credit is memorable

great video, none of the usual TH-cam sponsored sales pitch content about the newest gear etc. Simply telling us information. Thank you

What bar did you use to rig the full grid?

Can you still trust your zebras and histogram doing this?

Amazing work! I'd love to network with you and possibly do some projects together

about to film my first narrative project and this helped out a TON especially since i have such a small budget. such good recommendations man! :)

Amazing bro ❤ Did you have the camera set to 2700 when you changed to the orange hue? Thank you 🙏

one problem I spotted was when the boy hits with the can he is on the right side of the screen, but before that he was always on the left, that kinda confused me, other than that this is a great short, keep up the good work

Buy in TaoBao guys

Keep it up Carsten, loving your stuff, simple and to the point

What do you edit on

Thank you ❤

Thanks some great ideas!

I’m gonna be a regular watcher man, I appreciate YOU.

I literally got on youtube to look for this and it was already on my recommendations. My CIA agent working harder than usual.

Great tip! Helps me a lot especially after switching from bmpcc6k to BMCC 6k which one is noisier. I noticed that meters works weird especially highlights on BMCC 6k compared to bmpcc6k.

Thanks for the knowledge man👍🏾

Less is more. I still only have a minimalistic kit containing a few led panels, an aputure bulb and a tube light. Does the job and if not, the needed extras are easy to rent out for time needed.

sickkk

very good cinematography 😍

Very good tip! Thanks man

"Quick and dirty two-stop drop" Man's giving education AND bars 🔥🔥🔥

Thanks for this dude. Really helpful info as always.

Was dead serious JUST searching for a vid on this, good stuff!

Does 1.5 still apply to say with a vnd applied?

But then you lose 1,5-2 Stops in the Highlight so everything is clipping faster. For example the details in windows in a day interior.

Brother it’s low key strange that you made this video because I’ve been on the hunt for this EXACT topic. I’ve never used a LUT in my monitor before because I wasn’t sure how to set it up, but now I do! Thanks so much.

The other reason to shoot over is how log curves are encoded with 10bit values. If you ever see what the curve looks like it’s flattens out as you get to the bottom. There are very few 10bit samples used for the stops at the very bottom of the curve. This is why even if a sensor had zero noise which is physically impossible you would still have banding and color loss if you lift up those stops too much. Ironically the noise actually helps hide those other imperfections down there. By shooting over you provide more coded samples in the shadows which means much better detail and color along with much less noise. There has always been this misconception that log was meant to be this one size fits all thing and should always be shot the same but that’s not true. Base exposure just means it’s what the designer of the log format felt was a good balance between shadow and highlight stops. Log formats tend to have a ton of highlight stops for two reasons. 1. It was traditionally easier to market better dynamic range by showing less clipping in the highlights. Standard profile video clipped very early and log having usually 6 stops vs 3 stops of highlights visually made a huge impact. 2. It’s always better to have more at the top and go down due to how digital sensors work and the signal to noise ratio and code values on a lot curve. Starting with a higher amount of highlight stops means we have more flexibility to shoot over to get the desired look we want. Doing the opposite would mean if we did want more highlight detail we would have to lift everything which would introduce worse results. Sony has Cine EI for a reason. BMD Pocket cameras shift how the stops are mapped based on ISO for a reason. It’s a completely normal and valid way to shoot. Others for years have called this ETTR which is the same concept. The problem with ETTR is there is no standard or consistency. One ends up with footage all over the place and it’s much more difficult to grade later to correct everything manually. It also creates very inconsistent look across shots where a high contrast scene will have a lot more noise than a low contrast scene will. It’s just too random. Defining the amount to shoot over is consistent. If values may clip the lighting or shading should be adjusted to lower that contrast of the environment. I’m also not as freaked out about clipping highlights as I used to be. It happens. Trust me the viewers are much less concerned about that then they are video that’s too dark or has too much noise. Clipping isn’t the fault of the camera. Clipping is the fault of not balancing the lighting of the scene or forcing the environment to be very high contrast for no reason. Like insisting on shooting an interview subject sitting in front of a window. Again no viewer cares about what’s going on outside the window. If they are then the entire point of the piece and interest in the subject has been lost. At that point clipped highlights are the least of the concerns. Even if one lights the subject really well to match the window it’s not a good composition and creates too much distraction for the viewer.

This came to me seeing that we have the same Senheisser mic, but it would be cool if you did a tutorial about audio post-processing (voiceovers, interviews, etc.)

Does ETTR work well when you have to bump your ISO over the 1st or 2st base ISO of your camera? For example - my 2nd base ISO is 4000. Is it worth to bump it to 12800 to get that extra 1.5-2stops of light? Or this method works well when you overexposing the image with 1) Wider aperture 2) More light