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@@ThePaul303 thank you for the nice comment, there are some shots of the box nearly finished at the beginning of the video. There is a further video showing the finished engraved box and shows some of the engraving process. It is a short video of about 1:30 secs th-cam.com/video/r7iDSLrqdPU/w-d-xo.html

@@patcahillmetalworks322thank you, there are so many ways to make boxes. You could spend your life making boxes and never get bored. 🙂

@@Dwayanu17 thank you. The clips were made from split pins aka cotter pins. You can get boxes of assorted sizes from Amazon they are useful for different sized work stainless steel are best. You can also use titanium solder clips available from places such as Cooksongold. These are flat strips that can be bent to shape, they can also be cut with a piercing saw. The benefit of titanium is that solder does not stick to it but they are more expensive and I'm cheap 😉

@@alastairduncan4702 Thank you for your prompt reply, Mr. Duncan! 😊

@@samplum4150 have you had a look at the documentation on GitHub? The solenoid is powered via a MOSFET.

There's no motor, it uses a solenoid. Take a look at the documentation on GitHub there's a link in the video description.

​@@alastairduncan4702thank you

The speed controller is only a speed controller for a motor. It is a PWM controller which controls the power to a motor which controls the speed. With the super ez graver this controls the power for each strike not the strike rate. The foot pedal not attached to the speed controller, controls the strike rate. Have you looked at the documentation on GitHub?

@@alastairduncan4702 Yes, looked at all of it - even have a lot of your videos related to to the Super EZ graver saved as well! I also have all the files backed up (except the latest handpiece that is - trying out the basics first!) If I read it correctly, I think you're saying its because I have not yet wired in the M Pedal yet, and it will work properly when I do? Hence my question about the M Pedal wiring, I just want to know I'm connecting the right wires to the right pins on the UNO i.e. Red to ? Pin on UNO, Black to Pin ? on UNO and Shield Cable to ? Pin on UNO. Having looked through the video yet again, and I still can't work out the which colour of the wire on the M Pedal goes to which pin on the UNO, maybe I'm missing something - quite possible as I'm going to be 83 later this year and not used to having so much time on my hands? This is going to be my retirement hobby - hopefully! Must say I'm quite impressed at the force that this small solenoid can produce - think it will be a very worthy replacement for my old compressor setup. Thanks for your very prompt reply, much appreciated Regards, Richard

@richardbrooks6440 I think I understand you :-) I'm getting on a bit myself. With the single foot pedal system, the foot pedal controls the strike rate. black wire is 5v Red wire is gnd White wire is A0 I was also surprised by the strength of the solenoid. More than enough for any engraving I've done. Let know how you get on.

@@alastairduncan4702 Fantastic Alistair - I shall be onto this first thing tomorrow. I'll give you an update tomorrow sometime. Keeping my fingers crossed... Richard

Well Alistair, have wired the M Pedal as you said, but the result is still the same - just the set pulse rate about every half second, and the pedal makes no difference to anything :( One observation I'd like to make - convention here says that 'normally', Red is Power and Black is Ground, your advice is showing the opposite of this. I can't help thinking that these two wires should be reversed? Not tried it yet though, too scared of letting the magic smoke out of the UNO!!!)

I've never tried hairspray but I've seen that others have used it successfully. It would need some tackyness for the laser print to stick to.

I don't make them. The documentation for the controller and 3d models are on GitHub. You should find the link in the description for this video.

I'm sorry I haven't a clue. I didn't record the hours, I didn't work on it consistently and I was trying to learn the techniques from books and TH-cam videos.

K&S brass tube 9/32" O/D with a wall thickness 0.014"

This is the correct size for the GRS QC collets

Thank you.

Thank you.

It's called a Super EZ Graver. It is DC powered and there is a link in the description to documentation on GitHub. I don't make them or sell them.

Yes I've made one. Go and look at the GitHub docs. There's a couple of different versions with parts lists and these have links to Google searches to the parts. The prices for the parts may vary depending on where you are in the world. I engraved this box with it th-cam.com/video/r7iDSLrqdPU/w-d-xo.html

@@alastairduncan4702 Can it work on metal?

@@JasonBeck26 the link shows me engraving a sterling silver box so yes it engraves metal.

@alastairduncan4702 Thanks very much

The thick lines cut using the Super EZ graver in this video are 0.25mm wide. This is the only test I've done using stainless steel as I don't work with stainless steel. What width do you want to engrave?

Water is fine but it bubbles up more than meths and meths has a better wetting action although you can add a little washing up liquid to the water and it helps with wetting.

Thank you.

Thank you. I used a carborundum stone with plenty of water to grind flat then refired. I then used some pumice to clean and smooth the silver. Tripoli and rouge to polish. I didn't use any flux. I used a scratch brush(brass brush) with soapy water before enamelling.

​@alastairduncan4702 is this all just one layer of enamel? Or did you apply the enamel multiple times? Fantastic job truly. I have been using your superez graver build. It's awesome. I wanted to ask you something as you are an experienced engraver...how thin can the walls between engraved pockets be? Can they be as thin as 0.2 or 0.3mm? Basically mimicking cloisonne?

@@theOdin-odin at least 2 layers of enamel. Once you have ground the enamel smooth you may find some low spots which will need to be filled. You can cut the walls very thin but there are risks, you have to be much more careful. The walls of the cells don't have to be the same thickness all of the way down. Try having the base thicker. You can always thin it down afterwards if you are not happy. Try it on some copper first until you are comfortable with the technique.

Sorry, I don't sell anything. It's just a hobby for me.

You need to read the documentation on GitHub. There is a link in the video description.

@@alastairduncan4702 thanks my friend

Are you using the mk3 handle with a fan?

I use a more powerful power supply I think a 2A 24w may struggle.

@@alastairduncan4702 no actually, but do you think that fan could fix the issue ?

@@alastairduncan4702 I will try using a stronger power supply but not sure that will fix the issue

@@GAMEVUEG I suspect that your power supply is the problem. When you get to the point where it is running well but getting hot then the mk3 handpiece will help.

When a solenoid gets hot the resistance in the coil reduces. This will reduce the power that flows through it and hence the magnetic force it can produce. It's a fundamental problem that all solenoids have when pushed hard. I have a new handpiece that has a mounted fan which keeps the solenoid cool take a look here th-cam.com/video/Q9xFH1qhLhE/w-d-xo.html

@@alastairduncan4702 thanks a lot

I agree the raspberry pi is overkill I've used a Pico which is more like the Arduino and cheap under £5. it controls everything very well it just that I made an error 😮 and went on a journey 😉 and for most that have no understanding of electronics the 555 is out of the question.

Could you build one for me?

No sorry I don't do that. There is a description on GitHub about how I did it.

it is what it is.

I thought it was very interesting! Thank you!

Thank you

I'm glad it has helped 🙂

vitrumsignum.com/ Schauer is the brand of enamel vitrumsignum.com/product-category/enamels/schauer/

Thank you

Thank you.

Thank you. I was quite heavy with the cuts because silver is quite soft and wanted it to be able to stand a few years of polishing. It took long enough to do and I had to do some other stuff in the middle because I was going nuts :-;

These videos have been hanging around for a while, I thought it was about time I got it sorted.

@@alastairduncan4702 I’m working on my new shop and one of my first projects is your graver. I have all of the parts and had it running. But I didn’t get it on camera. I was waiting for make a video and it ending as a finished product.

Thank you

This is a link to a single MOSFET. kunkune.co.uk/shop/relay/dual-mosfet-driver-3-3-20v-trigger-15a-400w-out You can get multiple packs but you only need one. They sometimes come with header pins sometimes without. If without then you will have to get some. 4 pins are required for the board shown. If you are mounting the MOSFET on a breadboard then mount from underneath. I mounted from the top as I glued the MOSFET to a piece of wood. The pins require soldering to the MOSFET.

This video may help on soldering the header pins to a PCB th-cam.com/video/qz9Ryos1_GY/w-d-xo.html

@@alastairduncan4702 thank you so much for replying, I have the mosfet boards you linked on the GitHub I got a 5 pack I was assembling it all last night and realised there was extra pins on the mosfet you was using, in regards to the pins do I need male or female, like just the bare pin or the black plastic boxing of you know what I mean? And do you happen to know the spacing or can I find that out on the boards themselves? The hand pieces printed lovely too by the way I’m just waiting on the grs tool holders and I have everything, I even cadded a cabinet for it all to go into, if you want to have a look at it shoot me a message and I’ll send it over to you free of charge :)

@@108MusikGroup male or female is determined by what cable you are going to use to plug in to it. The spacing is fairly standard 2.54mm or 0.1". Some pics of it finished would be good.

@@alastairduncan4702 perfect thank you I’ll go for the open pin ones as I can secure them with a tiny bit of hot glue. Thank you again for your replies I really appreciate that! And for sure I’ll reach back out once it’s all assembled with some photos

Hi Marcin, The scooter pedal is a hall effect so quite different from the potentiometer pedal. Use the wiring diagram for the m-gear pedal and see if that works better. If I remember there is a jumper cable which tells the controller what you have connected. Its on the diagram so just follow that.

@@alastairduncan4702 Oh thank you!

@@alastairduncan4702 It works perfectly, thank you once more.! :)

@@marseal_armoury4547 my pleasure 🙂

Hi Jerry, it's possible that you have a duff speed controller or potentometer. You may be able to test with a 12v bulb completely separate from the engraving system. Other than that the most likely cause is that it's wired incorrectly but you haven't tracked it down yet. The wires from the speed controller feed the MOSFET the MOSFET then goes to the solenoid.

@@alastairduncan4702 Alastair, thanks for the reply! I checked the speed controller and it’s bad. With just the power supply connected I’m getting 12v out no matter what the power is set on. Even if the button is pushed. So I’ll use it without until a new one comes. Anyway I would like to send you some pics. I followed your instructions but I used the solenoid that you mentioned Thin Tran uses. I fit it into a wooden graver handle and almost have it finished with a spring tension control at the back of the handle like your newer design. Is there a way in the program to increase the power? Just wondering for experimentation. Once finished I would like to send you some pics. Thanks for your help Sir!

@@jerrymanges2489 if you are putting 12v in to a pwm controller you will always get 12v out, it's the current that is limited by cycling the width of the pulses on and off very quickly. If you use a bulb or led as a test it's should dim or brighten when you turn the potentiometer. It should however switch off with the on/off button. The problem with pushing more power through the solenoid is that it will create more heat. It can be done programmatically by adjusting the delays. A longer delay after a write will allow the coil to be activated for longer. Different solenoid have different sweet spots so a bit of trial and error may be required for the solenoid you are using.

@@jerrymanges2489 I have an Instagram account that allows messages with pictures @alastairduncan4

@@alastairduncan4702 Thanks for the info! I’m going to keep at it. Have a good day!

Sorry, l've no idea what that means.

The term is champleve, the silver is 1.5mm withe the cells at around 0.4mm deep. I think the best current examples are Phil Barnes, Fred Rich, Jane Short and Ruth Ball. Phil's book covers just about everything you could want to know about the art www.amazon.co.uk/Engraving-Enamelling-champleve-Phil-Barnes/dp/1785005456