Solenoid Engraver Prototype
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2020
- Below are the main parts of the Super EZ Graver:
mosfet www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...
pwm www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...
power supply www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-5A-...
arduino uno www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNO-R3-Lat...
brass tube maccmodels.co.uk/shop/5-8-x-1...
mgear pedal www.absolutemusic.co.uk/m45au...
hall effect pedal www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143547727767
Solenoid XRN-13/30TL 12vdc
Super EZ Graver code and documentation: github.com/alastair-duncan/Su...
Apologies for the rough engraving I haven't done any for a few weeks and this is a bit small compared to what I have done previously, and I'm just learning. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![อาจารย์ยอด : สวยกินคน [ผี]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_-TIJOwkRA4/mqdefault.jpg)
The engraving was good by the way :) musn't forget the most important part
That is so beautiful Alastair. I can tell just by the noise if a graver is hitting right, and that sounded perfect, smooth start. What's amazing is I have both those pedals already, and probably the other parts from failed attempts. I'm gonna put you along side Sergey Waltman ( the discoverer of the Homemade Machine Hand Egraving Machine), but because I only learned Russian enough to understand his video, you get to name this one :) If I had got there first I favored....The Easy Graver
Thank you, the easy graver sounds good to me 🙂
@@alastairduncan4702 Great so, is it The Alastair Duncan 'Easy Graver' or The 'Easy Graver' by Alastair Duncan, the second one sounds more artistic :)
@Shaun Hughes Engraving the second sounds better but I'm not bothered about having my name on it. I don't do this sort of thing for recognition, I know i'm just putting other people's discoveries together.
@@alastairduncan4702 That's every invention bro :) I recognise success, you succeded. If I can put it together anyone can and it looks not to difficult. I'm calculating it will take me a day of getting the arduino to work, but I will be an expert on this one task. Any heat from the solenoid, any more deatils need to hack the other pedal. I think you could judt have a switch for that, but that will be fun. I'm thinking, you could program morse code into the graver and engrave lines up and down and into a pattern. Like a sillouette of Winston Churchill in more code lines
Thanks for sharing
Genius piece of work you have done here sir!
For those of us that do this as a hobby and cannot afford a Lindsay or GRS air graver this is an excellent alternative. Very effective and great work!
I think the only piece missing is the programming for the Arduino (unless I missed it in another video), any chance you can share that bit of info or point us in the right direction?
Thank you for sharing this with the world, definitely inspired me to give it a try!
github.com/alastair-duncan/arduino
You done an excellent job sorting all that out well done👍. Should had left the sound on when cutting the penny.
Thank you. The camera on the scope doesn't seem to have sound, if it has then I haven't found out how to switch it on yet 😉
Thanks so much! I did it!
Shaun showed me the video clip of your graver, well done :-)
Thank You for showing this build. This is an amazing idea.
Do You plan to publish the programming for the Arduino-UNO? I've never done something like programming before, but maybe it's worth to learn, to get a solution like Yours.
Sorry I missed your comment. The code is on GitHub. github.com/alastair-duncan/arduino
@@alastairduncan4702 Thank You very much bro!
Nice to see an alternative concept. How does it performe compared to an air powered engraver? Do you feel any differnce?
The only experience I have of a pneumatic engraver is with the Shaun Hughes "home made hand engraving machine", I've never used any of the commercial offerings. I have the same foot pedal for strike rate and the dog water foot pedal for power control on the home made engraver, so I have similar methods for control on both systems. The EZ graver is much easier to control and is more consistent as the power delivery is the same over the different strike rates. The power tails off with the home made graver as the strike rate is reduced. I much prefer the EZ graver. The particular solenoid that I've used in the EZ graver has less power that the Home Made Graver but I've been able to do everything I want with the EZ graver, I don't do any engraving on the harder materials. There's still some work to be done on the selection of solenoid as I think this can be improved.
👍👍👍
Thanks so much Alastair! I followed your design and am now experimenting with some ideas of my own. Even an old dummy like me was able to get the Arduino to work pretty quickly. I even found the UNO's from Walmart for $10/ea...so I bought two! My setup seems to be underpowered compared to what I see in your videos. Not sure why, so I just built a beast with a 45N solenoid that is 1" in diameter. It works great but is about the size of a power toothbrush. It uses the same setup and equipment as yours and I can still get light action by dialing back the voltage, but it'll really plow when it's cranked up! Any suggestions on my "power problem?" Thanks again! You've made my old GRS System 3 obsolete.
I'm pleased you've got a system working. What materials are you engraving? The solenoid comes in 2 versions a 12vdc and 24vdc. are you running the 24vdc on 12vdc? I use the 12vdc version. I have pushed 24vdc through the 12v solenoid and it produces a lot more power but at the expense of more heat. I have got a much bigger solenoid(19mm, 3/4")but have not done anything with it yet as the one I have suits me well enough as I only engrave copper brass and silver and fairly small stuff. What is the solenoid you are using? I've also been looking at a custom designed solenoid but that will probably be a longer term part of the project.
@@alastairduncan4702 I bought the 12v solenoid you listed (XRN-13/30TL 12vdc) but never pushed it beyond 12v. I made a heavier piston but it didn't seem to improve the power much. Everything in my setup is the same as yours except the power source. I already had a 0-30V variable DC power source that I'm using. I do engrave on tougher materials - steel and bronze currently. I've been looking for more powerful solenoids that aren't too big but I may just have to buy some and experiment. The power ratings on Amazon are misleading I'm sure, but the price is cheap enough to take a chance. The big one I've got running is 24v and was in a 1" open metal frame that I removed. On another note: I noticed the go-cart pedal has a large dead area in it's range - it starts right out slowly but then will travel most of the way down before it begins to speed up, and then it speeds up rapidly...is this typical or just my pedal? As for my handles: I don't have a 3d printer, but I'm a machinist so I made the little one from aluminum, and the big one from plastic with a bronze nose cone to hold the tool. I'm excited about the possibilities with these electric hammers thanks to you! ...and you've shown they don't need to cost $3500 either, lol. If you know of any good solenoids to try maybe you could post them. Thanks!
Its possible that the XRN-13/30TL may not be man enough for the type of work you are doing as its not been designed for this task, it is quite a small solenoid and that is the attraction as it fits easily into the hand. I've been scouring the internet for solenoids myself, the data sheets for the cheap ones are non existent. The open metal frame may influence the magnetic force the solenoid is able to exert, although by the sound of it the big solenoid you have is more than powerful enough, the biggest problem with that is the size in the hand, the tubular solenoids are meant to be more efficient as the casing focuses the magnetic force(I think) . The hall effect pedal may not be linear, I've got used to mine now. You can hook another audio foot pedal in its place all it requires is an adjustment to the default parameters in the arduino code and it will give you much more control. I used the hall effect pedal because I had it, I have got another audio pedal now and just need to hook it up and adjust the code. Once I've done that I'll make it available. I've got some enamelled wire for making up coils and done some calculations but have not got around to doing anything with it yet. The expensive machines have had a lot of development work put into them but for anyone who likes to make their own equipment the principles are not in the rocket science area and it gives the opportunity to try engraving and setting without the massive burden of the initial outlay, as long as you have a bit of time to tinker.
@@alastairduncan4702 I've got a regular music pedal... I'll have to try that. what code changes need to be made? An interesting note: on my big setup I had a metal screw set up on the back side to regulate the piston travel and it was killing the power! I put an insulator in there and it started HAMMERING. Now that I've established the "happy spot" I'll remove the metal screw completely. Im thinking maybe a short stocky solenoid with a short stroke may work well, but it will probably be 1" in diameter or more calling for a unique handle design. I'll share what i come up with!
the line of code is line 36
comment out the line by adding // at the start of the line e.g
//int pot_value = map(analogRead(ACCELERATOR_PEDAL), 180, 875, -2, QUANTIZATION_FACTOR);
and add in this one
int pot_value = map(analogRead(ACCELERATOR_PEDAL),0,1023, 1, QUANTIZATION_FACTOR);
you can switch between the 2 lines by uncommenting the one you want and commenting out the one you don't want. I've not tested this code but it should work ok.
Your comment about the insulator is interesting.
I have question, can that foot pedal be hooked up to the homemade graver that Shaun Hughs built using a 12v air compressor. Instead of using a speed controller could one just use that foot pedal?
The foot pedal can be connected to the Shaun Hughes home made engraving machine by replacing the speed controller potentiometer with the foot pedal.
Very cool. This video shows both foot pedals hooked up but the schematic only shows one. Am I missing something?
In the text 😉 it mentions that 2 pedals are not absolutely necessary. If you do want 2 pedals the potentiometer pedal is substituted for the potentiometer that is connected to the pwm speed controller. You will need to remove all of the rubbish in the footpedal and leave the potentiometer connect up the wires directly to it. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need more clarification.
@@alastairduncan4702 I have made a 555 timer controlled air pulse engraver where I used a pressure sensitive resistor attached to the handpiece to give it a palm control like effect. do you think this could be incorporated onto your machine?
@Joe Paonessa I've never used a pressure sensitive resistor before but I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work. There are plenty of examples of the pressure resistors hooked up to the Arduino. I'll put it on the list of things to try. I've not used a palm control handpiece so I'm not convinced that it would be better than the foot pedals but I'm all for giving it a try to see if it will work well. Great idea 🙂
@@alastairduncan4702 I watched the video again and what I am thinking is to have the pressure resistor control the strokes per minute and a knob setting control the force. This way more pressure on the handpiece would up the speed and more force would be consistant. I'm thinking that this is the opposite of how you have the pedal inputs, Or am I again not seeing it clearly?
You are not seeing it clearly Joe probably because the PWM speed controller was designed to control the speed of a motor and it does this by controlling the power going to the motor. So the hall effect foot pedal that feeds into the Arduino controls the frequency of the strike and a replacement of the hall effect pedal with the pressure resistor is what is required with the addition of a pull down resistor. Your analysis of what is required however is spot on.
How exactly are the pins added onto the smaller board “mosfet” I have all the parts and everything done other than this step as I’m not sure how they are added and should I buy them as singles or in them long rows and only snap off two?
This is a link to a single MOSFET.
kunkune.co.uk/shop/relay/dual-mosfet-driver-3-3-20v-trigger-15a-400w-out
You can get multiple packs but you only need one. They sometimes come with header pins sometimes without. If without then you will have to get some. 4 pins are required for the board shown. If you are mounting the MOSFET on a breadboard then mount from underneath. I mounted from the top as I glued the MOSFET to a piece of wood. The pins require soldering to the MOSFET.
This video may help on soldering the header pins to a PCB
th-cam.com/video/qz9Ryos1_GY/w-d-xo.html
@@alastairduncan4702 thank you so much for replying, I have the mosfet boards you linked on the GitHub I got a 5 pack I was assembling it all last night and realised there was extra pins on the mosfet you was using, in regards to the pins do I need male or female, like just the bare pin or the black plastic boxing of you know what I mean? And do you happen to know the spacing or can I find that out on the boards themselves?
The hand pieces printed lovely too by the way I’m just waiting on the grs tool holders and I have everything, I even cadded a cabinet for it all to go into, if you want to have a look at it shoot me a message and I’ll send it over to you free of charge :)
@@108MusikGroup male or female is determined by what cable you are going to use to plug in to it. The spacing is fairly standard 2.54mm or 0.1". Some pics of it finished would be good.
@@alastairduncan4702 perfect thank you I’ll go for the open pin ones as I can secure them with a tiny bit of hot glue. Thank you again for your replies I really appreciate that! And for sure I’ll reach back out once it’s all assembled with some photos
Hello, So I replicated what you did here, except the solenoid (the same one you used) stops working once it runs hot
When a solenoid gets hot the resistance in the coil reduces. This will reduce the power that flows through it and hence the magnetic force it can produce. It's a fundamental problem that all solenoids have when pushed hard. I have a new handpiece that has a mounted fan which keeps the solenoid cool take a look here
th-cam.com/video/Q9xFH1qhLhE/w-d-xo.html
@@alastairduncan4702 thanks a lot
how much does this setup cost to buy all the parts?
If you look at the documentation on GitHub there is a list of parts and links for searches for the parts which will have up to date prices from your part of the world.
Have you completed this solenoid engraver and is it working well, what is the cost
Yes I've made one. Go and look at the GitHub docs. There's a couple of different versions with parts lists and these have links to Google searches to the parts. The prices for the parts may vary depending on where you are in the world. I engraved this box with it
th-cam.com/video/r7iDSLrqdPU/w-d-xo.html
@@alastairduncan4702 Can it work on metal?
@@JasonBeck26 the link shows me engraving a sterling silver box so yes it engraves metal.
@alastairduncan4702 Thanks very much
Might or maybe the solenoid get overheated for a long time use and burn
If you use it on maximum power it can get hot but it's never burnt. For the type of engraving that I do it only gets warm.