Thanks for the video Alistair! I’ve got a handle printed and parts on the way! Can’t wait to build it and try it out. It sounds really nice and controlled.
Awesome video as always! It’s awesome to see these machines preform so well. A possible future improvement might be adding a load cell/strain gauge to the Super EZ handle allowing you to vary the frequency (or power) as you vary pressure on the graver. (I.E., the harder you push, the faster the frequency; the lighter you push, the slower the frequency.)
Another great vid Alistair .The scientific approach! I like it. Love the way the EZ starts. They both sound like they are hitting a bit to hard for me, and would run the Homemade slower, which results in harder hit. I'm almost about to think about putting my one together! Yo did great shade lines and more than enough power .
Thanks Shaun, I think you are right about hitting a bit to hard, that's why I'm loosing the tip frequently. Carbide is much harder but not as tough as HSS so although it keeps its edge for longer it is more brittle so a hard hit is likely to break the tip. I was surprised by the shade lines, the first set was much finer and I thought it would not show very well but it blended nicely to provide subtle shading, learning by mistakes again ;-)
@@alastairduncan4702 They all looked neat than i do. Just incase. Try going as fine as you can. I always tend to go a bit deeper than i should sometimes. It's so effortless really fine it feels like you are cheating, but the eye appeal, can be much more effective. Refering to coins
Awesome setup my friend! You should try Lindsay carbalt gravers. They hold up better than the carbide. I've heated them up pretty good and they don't get damaged. Although with carbide heat usually isn't a problem carbalts are more heat resistant and not magnetic.
Thanks for the info. I think the other to try is the GRS CMAX or so the adverts say. They are a lot more expensive, the carbide that I have was around around £0.75 per cutter but there's a fair bit of inconvenience when the tip goes.
Hi I have made similar version to the grave using arduino nano and it get overhead to the point that the 3d printed hand peace gets distorted(2-3min of work). Is there a solution to the overheating. Thank you in advance ☺
The problem of overheating is caused by the amount of power being pushed through the solenoid. What solenoid do you use? what duty cycle do you use? if the solenoid is drawing too much current or the current is applied for too long it will overheat. Are you using the engraving tool at maximum power? what material are you engraving?
Hello Alistair I've got everything got it all wired up and the solenoid is to long. Did you cut the screw thread off it? And did you cut the piston down? If you did how long is the piston? I've gone all through your videos it doesn't say nothing about cutting the thread and piston down. Please help im so close 🙏
Excellent, yes I did cut off the screw thread and yes the piston needs to be cut down. I also removed the label from the solenoid so that it's not so tight in the handpiece. Once you have cut off the screw thread from the solenoid and cleaned it up with a file this can be installed into the handpiece. Screw in the inner sleeve add the spring and the piston. Press the piston in so that it's hard up against the solenoid body, then offer up the QC toolholder. You should be able to take a measurement for how far it is protruding from the handpiece. The measurement needs to be for the part which can move inside the handpiece. Subtract 3mm from that measurement and that is how much you should remove from the end of the piston. What you are aiming for is, when the piston is fully depressed the QC toolholder protrudes no more than 3mm from the flat area of the handpiece. Taking off less is better than taking off too much 😉 you can always cut off a bit more but it's much harder to add material back. 2.5mm protruding is probably optimal with the piston fully depressed.
How the hell do you cut 304 stainless steel?! ive been catching hell trying to work with some blanks and i cant get a line any deeper than a thin shading line with any gravers ive tried.
The thick lines cut using the Super EZ graver in this video are 0.25mm wide. This is the only test I've done using stainless steel as I don't work with stainless steel. What width do you want to engrave?
Hello, Master. Thanks a lot for videos. And I want ask your opinion about GRS Soft-Hit QC Tool Holder #004-870 will it work for Super EZ tool? Thank you.
@@alastairduncan4702 Thanks for answer it’s same standard graver holder just has soft addition to make hit softer and smooth. grs.com/product/soft-hit-qc-tool-holder-3-pack/
Hi, I have a small question. I'm after a few runs on engraving with machine made of your design - electric one with solenoid - and I got a drop of force after some time. I think it is due to heating of the solenoid. Do you think that the higher the temperature of the solenoid can result with the lower power of strikes? Or should I look for the problem at some other part/component
Electrical resistance increases with temperature for copper. The windings for the solenoid are made from copper. When the resistance increases then the power drops off. That's my understanding. I've not found it too much of a problem as the type of engraving I do does not push the solenoid at its max. The brass handled version does disipate the heat better than the 3d printed handle.
I am well thank you, I've been busy with my allotment growing vegetables. When the weather is good I like to be outside. I've made a few pieces which I haven't videoed but they are on Instagram. I have just sorted out a new method for transferring designs to curved surfaces such as rings. I need to video it, when I do I will post. I'm retired so only do stuff when I feel the urge. 🙂
Thanks for the video Alistair! I’ve got a handle printed and parts on the way! Can’t wait to build it and try it out. It sounds really nice and controlled.
Amazing! You are the man!
Awesome video as always! It’s awesome to see these machines preform so well.
A possible future improvement might be adding a load cell/strain gauge to the Super EZ handle allowing you to vary the frequency (or power) as you vary pressure on the graver. (I.E., the harder you push, the faster the frequency; the lighter you push, the slower the frequency.)
Thank you, I have a pressure sensitive resistor to try this but have not got around to experimenting with it yet.
@@alastairduncan4702 I think I can safely say we’re all looking forward to when you do!
Another great vid Alistair .The scientific approach! I like it. Love the way the EZ starts. They both sound like they are hitting a bit to hard for me, and would run the Homemade slower, which results in harder hit. I'm almost about to think about putting my one together! Yo did great shade lines and more than enough power .
Thanks Shaun, I think you are right about hitting a bit to hard, that's why I'm loosing the tip frequently. Carbide is much harder but not as tough as HSS so although it keeps its edge for longer it is more brittle so a hard hit is likely to break the tip. I was surprised by the shade lines, the first set was much finer and I thought it would not show very well but it blended nicely to provide subtle shading, learning by mistakes again ;-)
@@alastairduncan4702 They all looked neat than i do. Just incase. Try going as fine as you can. I always tend to go a bit deeper than i should sometimes. It's so effortless really fine it feels like you are cheating, but the eye appeal, can be much more effective. Refering to coins
Awesome setup my friend! You should try Lindsay carbalt gravers. They hold up better than the carbide. I've heated them up pretty good and they don't get damaged. Although with carbide heat usually isn't a problem carbalts are more heat resistant and not magnetic.
Thanks for the info. I think the other to try is the GRS CMAX or so the adverts say. They are a lot more expensive, the carbide that I have was around around £0.75 per cutter but there's a fair bit of inconvenience when the tip goes.
@@alastairduncan4702 Yes GRS is great too! Keep the video coming👍
Hi I have made similar version to the grave using arduino nano and it get overhead to the point that the 3d printed hand peace gets distorted(2-3min of work).
Is there a solution to the overheating.
Thank you in advance ☺
The problem of overheating is caused by the amount of power being pushed through the solenoid. What solenoid do you use? what duty cycle do you use? if the solenoid is drawing too much current or the current is applied for too long it will overheat. Are you using the engraving tool at maximum power? what material are you engraving?
Hello Alistair I've got everything got it all wired up and the solenoid is to long. Did you cut the screw thread off it? And did you cut the piston down? If you did how long is the piston? I've gone all through your videos it doesn't say nothing about cutting the thread and piston down. Please help im so close 🙏
Excellent, yes I did cut off the screw thread and yes the piston needs to be cut down. I also removed the label from the solenoid so that it's not so tight in the handpiece. Once you have cut off the screw thread from the solenoid and cleaned it up with a file this can be installed into the handpiece. Screw in the inner sleeve add the spring and the piston. Press the piston in so that it's hard up against the solenoid body, then offer up the QC toolholder. You should be able to take a measurement for how far it is protruding from the handpiece. The measurement needs to be for the part which can move inside the handpiece. Subtract 3mm from that measurement and that is how much you should remove from the end of the piston. What you are aiming for is, when the piston is fully depressed the QC toolholder protrudes no more than 3mm from the flat area of the handpiece. Taking off less is better than taking off too much 😉 you can always cut off a bit more but it's much harder to add material back. 2.5mm protruding is probably optimal with the piston fully depressed.
How the hell do you cut 304 stainless steel?! ive been catching hell trying to work with some blanks and i cant get a line any deeper than a thin shading line with any gravers ive tried.
The thick lines cut using the Super EZ graver in this video are 0.25mm wide. This is the only test I've done using stainless steel as I don't work with stainless steel. What width do you want to engrave?
hello can you tell me how many degrees of chisel did you use
120⁰ for the leaf outline and 98⁰ for the shading.
@@alastairduncan4702 terima kasih atas responya. Pahat anda 120° memiliki berapa derajat di bagin wajah?
@@mulanjamilah7849 45 degrees 15 degree heel
Hello, Master. Thanks a lot for videos. And I want ask your opinion about GRS Soft-Hit QC Tool Holder #004-870 will it work for Super EZ tool? Thank you.
I've never used any GRS tools so I don't know how the #004-870 is likely to perform in the super ez graver. I'm sorry i can't help.
@@alastairduncan4702 Thanks for answer it’s same standard graver holder just has soft addition to make hit softer and smooth. grs.com/product/soft-hit-qc-tool-holder-3-pack/
Hi,
I have a small question. I'm after a few runs on engraving with machine made of your design - electric one with solenoid - and I got a drop of force after some time. I think it is due to heating of the solenoid. Do you think that the higher the temperature of the solenoid can result with the lower power of strikes? Or should I look for the problem at some other part/component
Electrical resistance increases with temperature for copper. The windings for the solenoid are made from copper. When the resistance increases then the power drops off. That's my understanding. I've not found it too much of a problem as the type of engraving I do does not push the solenoid at its max. The brass handled version does disipate the heat better than the 3d printed handle.
@@alastairduncan4702 Thanks.
nice work!
Hello, I hope you are well. You haven't uploaded videos for a long time. your videos are very helpful for people like us
I am well thank you, I've been busy with my allotment growing vegetables. When the weather is good I like to be outside. I've made a few pieces which I haven't videoed but they are on Instagram. I have just sorted out a new method for transferring designs to curved surfaces such as rings. I need to video it, when I do I will post. I'm retired so only do stuff when I feel the urge. 🙂
What microscope are you using?
th-cam.com/video/sZqCsk0kGm8/w-d-xo.html I found the mechanism for the camera mount is not great.
@@alastairduncan4702 Thank you.