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Shops normally charged by the hour. It’s about a 2 to 3 hour job so if it’s $100 an hour, roughly $200 to $300.

Stories like yours is exactly why I do videos showing common problem solutions. I’m glad the video helped you out, and I’m glad you’re able to save money and not have to take it to the dealership for a fix. Merry Christmas to you too.

@ToyotaGR86Performance definitely saved me alot of money I probably spent about 8 pound on grease £ 30 on a female socket set and wrench £20 pound on some stands So £58 and about an hour of actually fixing it would have probs cost over £300 to get done I'm actually quite proud I did it myself If you got any information on doors not locking would be a great help to lol

Door is not locking? Doesn’t make a quick sound when you tell them to lock? If so, your actuator is probably weak and needs to be replaced. There are usually about US$30 on eBay. If it is not making any noise at all when you tell her to walk, it could be the fuse or the relay. Either way the first thing to check is the cheapest. Check the fuse, then the relay.

@ToyotaGR86Performance yeah it used to work then just stopped. The doors lock from the inside with the central locking button but I can lock it by the key or the. With the key itself though the key hole

Then you have a mechanical issue inside of the lock cylinder where you insert your key. The only way to diagnose that would be to take that portion apart and see what’s going on. Sometimes it’s a simple as a bent rod.

Thanks! I try to make the videos as simple to follow as possible so everyone at any skill level can perform the same install.

@@cabezonear thanks, mate!

The entire time I was making it, that was my entire goal. I’m tired of watching other content where they blab around and talk all kinds of nonsense for 30 minutes before showing you what you actually came for.

Sounds like a good filter, but I’m going to stick with the OE performance option.

I’m glad the video helped.

Yes. My shop is in the Portland Oregon area. Right on the border with Washington. You can email me for a quote at SmartCarMaintenance@iCloud.com

Yes. The 3 lines means your transmission needs to relearn the actuator position.

tbh only thing I would add is to run like 1/3 to 1/2 a quart overfill, also wanna wait like 5-10 mins before checking oil level I've found, otherwise it doesn't drain out of the flat heads and the measurement seems a bit on the low side. Heard people also have success with 5w-30 if you end up tracking or frequently drive spiritedly.

Both of your comments are excellent. Thread sealer is a great product that does not lock up your bolt when you’re trying to remove it. And a small overfill is also a good idea, but I’m currently waiting for an oversize oil pan, or for someone to come up with a dry sump system before I take my vehicle to the track. I already have the Greddy oil pan, baffle, but I do not believe it is enough for track use.

Literally every single boxer engine has this problem. Want high-performance? Want a low center of gravity? You gotta compromise for it one way or another.

You can’t really pre-fill an oil filter on these because the moment you turn it upside down to screw it on all of that oil will pour all over and just get everything messy.

It’s honestly not necessary to do

It’s not necessary. The film of oil on the bearings is substantial enough to where if it is not pressurized, you will not do any damage in the three seconds it takes for oil pressure to build up after a change. If you are running an oil cooler system, then I would recommend pressurizing the oil system prior to a full start.

Since the oil filter is on top could an oil extractor by used to avoid jacking up the vehicle?

Yes.

For the first 1300 miles I had three oil changes to get all the break-in junk out. Those first three oil filters were the factory Subaru units. After that, I switched to the GR filter.

@@ToyotaGR86Performance Ah ok, are you using 0w20? Or did you change after those three changes as well?

@@cabezonear LiquiMoly 0W-20. I’m not tracking the car yet so I use the OE spec oil. Also it’s cold here now so 0W-20 is a good idea anyways.

@@ToyotaGR86Performance thank you for the responses! By the way, curious on your thoughts on a oil drain valve, like the one made by fumoto, would you consider adding one for your oil changes?

Personally, I would never add a quick oil drain valve. Yes I get the appeal. Yes I have used them on customer cars. The reality is that little plastic tab can be lost, the tiniest little thing can fling up during driving and crack that valve open, and your oil simply leaks out as you drive. By the time your low oil pressure light turns on it’s too late.

It’s part of the GR intake system. It came in the box.

It did stain it, bit of you use cutting compound and polish it will go away.

I’m honestly not sure, but I wouldn’t be surprised if you’re correct. It doesn’t really matter if you have the taller one or the shorter one, but if you have the taller one, you have more capacity for sediment, and therefore can technically use it a bit longer, or you can have a little more buffer zone for how much junk it can filter out before it goes to the bypass valve. Me personally I just use the GR filter and change it every 3300 miles.

Yes

So pretty much open it up, clean it out, then lube the crap out of it? Any specific lube weight? General purpose, high heat, Red, Blue, White?

@HeyMikeyLikesIt2 in my experience any grease that will stay in place like a thick lithium. Don’t use any runny grease because it will not stay on track and eventually pull at the bottom.

And grease that is not runny and will not pool at the bottom of the actuator.

@@ToyotaGR86Performance Thanks for the response. I bought this Smart car not knowing what I was really looking at…after two weeks, I found I have to replace so many parts. Luckily the salvage yard near me just got a wrecked smart car, I’ve been cannibalizing it every other day. It’s easy to replace parts, I’m just not too good at the electrical troubleshooting.

If it’s a 451 diesel, yes.

Not really, thats why engines have pickup screens. This pickup is a 5 sided box, and you only saw sealer in a small section at the base. This will not impede on oil flow.

10? 15? No, it adds 99hp.

I don’t think so.

@@ToyotaGR86PerformanceCan you perhaps measure the space in between?

35cm or 13&3/4”.

@@ToyotaGR86Performance Thank you

With the right tires, it was completely fine.

Heat gently with hair dryer and remove, then reapply.

Thank you.

eBay, Mercedes, pretty much anywhere. Just Google the part number.

@ToyotaGR86Performance i tried. It's a barren lost hope

classicparts.mbusa.com/oem-parts/smart-vapor-canister-4514700159

There you now have a direct link to buy it.

mine starting to not be able to accelerate past 30 after i replaced actuator, let me know if it fixes your problem

@benjaminsauceda5906 i actually did this today. While it helped with shifting, it didnt help my top speed. I used to be able to ride the governor at 92 if i wanted, now im struggling to maintain 70-75 no CEL. Last thing i am going to try is fuel pump thinking even though i have pressure maybe i dont have much flow. For what its worth, the way i adjusted the actuator was during install i pushed it up until i felt it hit the arm inside and made a mark. I pushed it in 3 hash marks farther in from there and locked down the bolts. Then a few cycles through P R N D back and forth several times. It actually shifts much better than ever before and took maybe 30 mins to do.

@benjaminsauceda5906 ive learned quite a bit about this car in the 65k miles ive put on it. Its been fun and reliable but this top speed issue has me scratching my head. Ive replaced coils, plugs, done leak down and fuel pressure tests, replaced crank sensor, now greased the clutch actuator, removed and cleaned injectors to ensure proper fuel atomization, checked the cylinders with a bore scope, removed and cleaned the throttle body, replaced the air filter for good measure, run sea foam intake cleaner through the intake and hot soaked it per directions. Only thing i havent done is change the fuel pump, which mind you still shows good pressure but im wondering if i have poor flow. It still drives great through town, but it just wont do higher highway speeds anymore.

Necessary is subjective. It was mainly done so I can create an informational video for other people to do their job.

Thanks, man.

Nm, ended up finding it. For anyone else who is OCD like myself and wants the instructions. toyotaparts.sparkstoyota.com/install/PTR03-18221inst.pdf

Who needs instructions when you have meeeeee. :D

@@ToyotaGR86Performance hah. Your video is awesome brotha. I just like to have printed copies of stuff I buy. Especially if I sell down the road and someone needs a reference on how to work back a install. 🤟🏻

Smart.

I have done it many times and it’s totally fine if you don’t go over the specified torque.

While it is true that a baffle will not completely eliminate oil starvation in prolonged high-G corners, a baffle will definitely help most people for spirited driving on city streets. If you are on a race track, you need either a DrySump system, or something like an AccuSump.

@@ToyotaGR86Performance the dry/accusump systems are costly and add complexity. It seems the easier approach for most will be the larger capacity oil pans coming to market imo. Oil starvation seems to be of no concern for street driving and even then, my understanding is that the starvation is caused by the lack of oil returning to the sump - not from oil escaping it (which is why a baffle doesn’t cure the issue)

It is both. With Subaru boxer engine when you are turning a lot the engine oil tends to pool on the sides of the engine and that’s why it’s not returning to the bottom. When you have the baffle, it helps keep the oil that is in the pan from splashing out too quickly, and going out to the sides of the engine.

Yes. The details is what sets cars apart. ^_^

Please make a video of it if possible.

@@ToyotaGR86Performance i will do my best

Never heard of this issue with the smarts.