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Which one?

For cruise and idle I target 1.00 lambda or 14.7 AFR and then as it goes into boost the target is .75 lambda or 11.0 AFR. With the flex fuel computer on ethanol it leans out the WOT target to 0.80 lambda which is about 11.75 AFR. But for ethanol the leaner mixture is ok because the fuel does a better job at cooling the cylinder temps down. Hope that explains it. Thanks for watching.

@SWSpeedCo ok. I knew I was seeing 14 something on the graph lol

You can dm me on Instagram (same name as my channel). You can try moving the injectors to another cylinder. Sometimes big injectors have trouble running at idle. I will get an occasional misfire on cylinder 1 but not every time I hot start it.

@@SWSpeedCo i cannot find u there at all have no idea why mine is Joaomedeiross. so basically my car misfire on hot starts for around 30-45sec then it stabilizes and drives perfectly even at wot.

I sent you a follow request, have you tried reseting the ecu? Sometimes the computer can learn wierd things for hot start so if you reset the ecu and clear all the learned values it could potentially get rid of the issue your seeing. Because It doesn't really sound like a mechanical issue it kind of sound like a tune issue.

Yeah haha, this video was pieced together over a few months so there was alot of facial hair growth in that time. I have a more detailed AOS video for the crawford AOS that I uploaded a couple years ago. And I just use the drain on the top of the block and haven't had any issues with it that way.

Here is the link to the video: th-cam.com/video/Lmjuj7znKfM/w-d-xo.html The process and line routing is pretty similar to the cobb aos with some minor differences. Thanks for watching!!

@@SWSpeedCo it perfectly encapsulates working on a Subaru. EVERYTHING you do to 1 that involves tools, is NEVER a "quick fix".

@@SWSpeedCo you're effectively modding 2 OBXTs. I'm not gonna do the E__ thing thō.

Those numbers don't sound to far off, the most important thing for virtual dynos accuracy is doing it on a flat road, and making sure the weight of the vehicle is accurate. If you car is lighter than the weight value you are using it will read higher than actual. If you want to confirm the road is flat you can do one pull in one direction and do one the other way and the numbers should be about the same if the road is flat. Hope that helps!

For virtual dyno: Time Vehicle speed Rpm Boost pressure (not required) 3rd gear usually works well on a manual 5-speed subaru.

You also need to log I think it's main throttle voltage so the virtual dyno knows when you are at wot. I like to log boost pressure and afr as well just so I can reference it to the numbers I'm seeing. I can confirm for you when I can double check on my laptop

@@chacelarsen50 automatic but i have paddle shifters and manual mode

Yeah the arrow is pointing towards the front of the car. The change in camera angle kind of made it look like it was facing the back of the car

Thank you!!

No there is not a bleed valve. If you are talking about a coolant drain valve, there is a plug on the bottom of the radiator to drain coolant but no bleed valve.

Very nice i wouldjust say stage x haha. Next video for Stage 4 I will be installing tomei uel headers and a Blouch 1.5xtr 10cm turbo. Thanks for watching!!

@ can’t wait to see it!🤙🏻

Thank you!!

Here is a link, im not affiliated with flatirons tuning so you can buy it from another website too. www.flatironstuning.com/rcm-samco-bpv-hose-08-10-wrx-05-09-lgt Thanks for watching!!

@SWSpeedCo thanks I really needed to find one!

If you have instagram you can dm me your email and I can send it to you if I can find it.

It's been holding up good, I have probably 30k + miles on it and I'm making 400 whp, shooting for 450whp shortly. Thanks for watching!

That is a possibility, do you know what the code is for the check engine light?

Good to know, thanks for the info!

Yeah i don't think it would like to run very much if I left the tune haha

I am running a jdm engine in my wrx, that ej has way more power..

Yeah I messed up on cutting out the material for the ebrake boot so I had to add an extra stitch. I don't remember exactly what I did wrong but I think the fabric was backwards and I needed to cut it and flip it to make it work. Otherwise it would have just been the hidden stitch on the front and the French seam down the back.

Glad to hear it

I bought mine on ebay so if I put a link in the description they don't last for long. motamec.com/motamec-tandem-split-diagonal-group-n-hydraulic-handbrake-master-cylinder.html This is essentially the same master cylinder I used just a different name on it. If you search for it on ebay you may be able to find the same thing for cheaper

Could be a transmission issue but before you commit to that I would inspect the shift linkages and make sure nothing is wrong with those because if something came disconnected it could keep the shifter from moving like you said.

I'm not sure, I can look up bolt spacing and let you know

@ if it’ll work with the fprd-ra that would be awesome

So I looked into it and from the information that I have found it seems like the mount as is would be close but not work with the radium fpr. If you already have that fpr and can confirm some measurements for me, I can edit the file and send you out a test print. Or if you would be comfortable sending me the fpr I can modify the mount to work and then add it to my website for you to purchase and send back the fpr and new mount to you to confirm fitment. I have the 3D scan of the intake manifold so I would just need the radium fpr to model in CAD to make the mount .It would be less back and forth that way. Let me know if your are interested and I can shoot you an email with more info.

I only changed it to lambda for the romraider logger read out. The ecuflash map still uses AFR. With the fuel tables you just dictate your afr targets but the actual tuning to meet those targets is done through the maf scaling table and injector scaling. Both of those tables are adjusted using a percentage correction based on how far you are from the target so I find lambda easier to use since the read out tells me the percentage it is off and I don't have to do any math in my head while I'm tuning.

Hahaha, yeah its definitely a lengthy and expensive swap to do. If I wasn't making over 350 whp I wouldn't do it either

Definitely is a sickness haha, I have DW 1200cc injectors and an AEM 345 lph pump. The injectors are perfect for this turbo on gasoline, but on e85 I'm reaching the end of their capabilities, but I should be able to achieve my goal by increasing base fuel pressure

@SWSpeedCo thanks for getting back to me! Wow that big of an injector ? Jesus. I watched the video, that car seems to also ride quite "normal" also? As in you could still take it to the corner store and it drive well? Great job with the parts you are making also!

@robmassicotte4889 thank you!! It is a big injector, and it does drive quite well on the street for the most part. I think that mostly comes down to having a good tune, and I spend lots of time getting everything dialed in.

Yeah, I'll definitely be using that method again in the future

Thank you! That is a good idea, I will work on that

Ok, that is very interesting. I figured there was some compatibility reason people didn't swap newer transmissions. Thanks for letting me know that!

@@SWSpeedCo no no, it's due to that speed sensor makes it more complicated than it needs to be

Ok, still doable, just trickier? What is the work around for that?

Flatirons Tuning has a video on STI 6-speed swaps where they talk about the conversion kit that's necessary. Its possible but requires some wiring and expertise! ​@@SWSpeedCo

Outback

I think they are worth it. I didn't break the transmission until like 420whp. I would say 350 hp is reliable up to maybe 380 with the blast plates

@SWSpeedCo right on thanks man!

It's a 50mm if I remember correctly

Good luck, it's not too bad just do it on a day where you can take your time and be patient. Thanks for watching!

That sounds awsome, I'd like to experiment with a built 5 speed some day, maybe on the next subaru

@@SWSpeedCo Don't wait to long! The RA gears are finally EOL and I imagine there aren't to many people selling parts. I've had to do a lot of searching to find random washers and parts to complete mine. Even Subaru has some backordered with no ETA on when they would arrive. eBay, Amazon, and random part websites have helped me get all my parts

As far as the short block assembly goes, the process is all the same for all the variations of ej25. This is and EJ255 to be exact but it has ej257 crankshaft and forged pistons and rods.

You don't need to wait till it is cold to remove the Funnel, just be careful not to burn yourself if the coolant is hot. I like to fill the overflow reservoir to the cold level when cold before starting the process, I will top it off when it is at operating temperature if it is below the hot level

Yeah i tuned it with romraider and ecuflash

That's the best way to do it if you don't want to deal with tuning or check engine codes from the motors being disconnected. But the shaft and metal bellow it still create a significant airflow ubstruction, so if you want the most performance the best way is to just remove everything

@@SWSpeedCo no not at all. Please don’t say things you have no proof of. That’s just your imagination

It's not my imagination I have taken airflow classes in college. There is a reason that formula one cars don't use round tubes on any part of the vehicle and that is because they creat significantly more drag than an airfoil design. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to understand that If you have an object in the path of airflow its going to be less efficient than with no obstruction. Not my imagination, do some research.

@@SWSpeedCo don’t go to formula my friend bring a dyno sheet before n after to prove your point. I do this for a living n I get sick n tired of all the false information being spread out there. Theories are for schools but in the market you need to apply lab test it and only then sell it. No beef just saying it as it is

I get what you're saying, I doubt the actual horse power gains are substantial. But theory says its better, so that's what I will do. I would say the mod is not worth the effort if you aren't willing to gut the whole thing. The gains are small with a fully gutted tgvs in the first place and if you just remove the blades the gains will be less "in theory". I think it's a good while your in there mod but I wouldn't take off my manifold just to do tgv deletes and i wouldn't bother just taking out the blades because they are only closed for the first 30 seconds of engine operation then they are open the rest of the time. I understand your point and apologize if my response came off as dickish.

That part does suck haha, If you have the rubber grommet style spark plug socket you can put dielectric grease on the grommet and they still hold the sparkplug but come off much easier. Idk of any way to make the magnetic ones easier.

Yeah, had a magnetic socket but I just used a regular one to get it on and the special one to get it off

That works too haha