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Thanks- I have stamp material but haven't made any stamps so I can't say for 100%. Making a stamp out of metal will not work with any power laser diode machine- for this a split fiber machine is better suited. Thanks for watching!

Thanks- I've been using the digital background for so long I forget where I sourced it from. If you're looking for a cloth background I use B&H photography for a lot of my equipment.

HI- that depends on the material you would like to cut/engrave/mark or color mark. There's 3 types of laser sources- Split fiber/Mopa, RF Co2, and IR- each excels in a different area. The LaserPecker LP4 offers 2 in 1 laser head offering Laser diode and IR and I don't know of another galvo machine on the market that's versatile as the LP4. As you know the laser source and power output spans a price range of sub $2,000 to $10,000.

Thank you!

Thanks- glad the videos are helping! I can setup for another video on the GI30 using the foot pedal for both LightBurn and Ezcad2.

Thank you. I have LightBurn 1.6 running on a MacBook Pro. The buttons and settings seem quite different from your demo on a Windows machine. I bet there would be others that would like a video for a Mac OS.

Thank you- this makes my day!!!

Personally- on warped wood, I cut it down to smaller pieces. Smaller wood pieces I store flat with a weight or books on top in a dry area.

The Xtool M1? I'm not sure- I don't have an M1.

That's awesome- thanks for sharing!!!

That's a great idea and for larger project I know they make blue making tape about 6" wide! Thanks for watching!

Thanks!

Thanks- I'll take a look at materials testing and framing next time I have the rotary connected !

I'm using 1/8 inch thick (about 3mm).

@@thelaserchannel1 thanks man, you do good work..subscribed!

@@blackfirst1691 Thank you so much!!!

Thanks!

Thanks for the feedback- I did ask Wecreat if the connector board had to be swapped each time- Yes, yes it does. For me the module swap takes about 10-15 minutes and I would like to see it at 5 minutes or less. I agree with you- not the most convenient module to swap.

@@thelaserchannel1Thanks for the reply. Even spending 10 to 15 minutes can feel like a waste of time, especially when you have to constantly switch back and forth. It's not just about the time consumed; it's also not as easy as people might think. You might eventually get the hang of it, but it's still tedious, involving unscrewing, cutting ties, and then redoing it repeatedly. This suggests that WeCreat is developing products without consumer interaction. If they had involved consumers, this new module would never have gone to market. So, as a new company in the laser business, WeCreat is starting off on the wrong path, which will hurt them in the long run. And don’t think for a moment that WeCreat is popular right now; they’re not. WeCreat distributes many of their lasers to social media influencers (like yourself), making it seem very popular, but it's merely a marketing strategy. 99.9 % of WeCreat owners were sponsored and the average consumers has a low number of ownership, paid by them. Lastly, before WeCreat focuses on new products, they should address the problem with the focus point, where the laser doesn't always engrave where intended. This issue persists across batch products as well. Regardless of what WeCreat's video content creators demonstrate, engraving isn't consistently accurate from their presentations. This is my second WeCreat, and despite calibration efforts, it's still hit or miss. 😎

It would be easier if the connector board didn't need to be switched out and the ribbon cables had larger connectors.

While paint with zinc does work- I stopped using it a long time ago because of the health risks of spraying it and burning it with a laser. For these reasons I do not recommend using zinc spray paint.

Hi- I don't use Apple products so I never checked into if Ezcad2 is compatible with Apple products. Lightburn might be a better route. Another option is to Join the FB group for Ezcad2 Users to see what other who have Mac are using.

Thanks- to convert from the D1 10 watt in the video to a D1 Pro 20 watt you can increase the speed by roughly 2x or reduce the power by about 1/2! Thanks for watching.

Hi- I recommend using the included wheel stand normally for the roller unit- adjust to support one end of the glass- you may need to tape the wheel stand to the chuck frame to hold it in place. Best wishes!

The only color I heard of rusting over time on Stainless Steel is Black- I haven't experience rust on any of my color marking including black. Most of my outdoor plaques are stainless steel.

Lols- I love it!!

Thanks- it's a great way to save money!

I'm not familiar with the grease in automatic coffee makers, but Yes- silicone grease- a little goes a long way!

I try to keep working time under2 hours on very large items. I have engraved glasses all day with the only rest during changing glasses!

@@thelaserchannel1 wow, great, for what i might use it the most is engraving leather denim labels in large batches of leather all together, and then cutting them, do you think this is possible or the edges of every label will be burnt? Thank you for your answer and sorry for so many questions!

@@federicoayup863 Yes- the edges will be charred- this will happen on any machine. Finding better settings will reduce the char- in the USA we have a cleaning product called LA's Totally Awesome and it does a great job of cleaning char!

Yes- it would be nice if the electrical connection was a little easier and the small connector board did not have to be replaced. The small connector board for the laser diode then has to be put back in when the IR module is taken out...

First check the air assist is ON and also check that mirror #3 on the laser head is clean along with the focus lens. After checking those 3 things try running a little slower or adding more passes. I have found not all wood and plywood are the same so it's normal to have the use different settings.

Thanks!

just make sure the dial is all the way clockwise- you should be able to run a project from the software- the yellow test is only for manual test pulse with the dial turned low. A great sport for help is the Monport Facebook group where you can post pics/video of your issue- many users are able to help after seeing photos or a video!

@@thelaserchannel1 I tried running several projects - what is happening is that the red dot follows the path of the M letter ( test project was just to print the M letter) but there's no burning. So it just draws the M on the acrylic sheet but doesn't cut it. And I can't fix it. And it's impossible to reach the Monport support because they outsourced their support to India and those guys don't even bother answering the phone. They call me at midnight when it is morning in India, tell me how sorry they are, promise to forward my concern to their technicians and nothing is happening after that. Zero customer support. That's why I am asking people on TH-cam maybe they have faced similar issue.

@@user-xv2ni5vw2e Sorry to hear you're having support issues with Monport. Are you able to join the Monport Facebook group- you can post your issue with a short video- people there are able to help once they see your issue by watching your short video.

@@thelaserchannel1 I will give it a try. Thank you.

You're welcome- glad you like the video!

You're welcome!

Thanks! Glad you're enjoying the channel!

Wow- that's a lot of great feedback- thanks for sharing! And thanks for sharing your tips!

Thanks!

Thanks! Love the tip on the hot water clean up!

Perfect!

Longer than higher power machines- this being a 5 watt it took about 17 minutes for the Basswood ply and 36 minutes for the pressboard. I recommend to look at the 10 watt version- not only can you run much faster, the cutting action opens a lot more project possibilities! Thanks for watching!

You're welcome! Glass is the only material I've used the spray chalk on.

That's awesome to hear!

The up/down button is hardwired internal to the machine. Unfortunately, the up/down is not controlled through software. Do the up/down buttons on the machine work?

@@thelaserchannel1the down button works but the up button doesn’t work. I can raise it manually but it’s very slow. I reached out to Monoort help desk.

@@jeffreyjulian4570 Very odd the only the down button works... The rest of the machine works ok?

yeah everything else seems to work ok. I haven’t tried to focus the laser yet because it won’t go up but I guess I could just mark a small circle on a piece of test material just to be sure

@@jeffreyjulian4570 Ok- let me know how your Monport service experience goes.

You're welcome- sorry to hear of your loss. Yes- please let me know how the IR module works with your machine.

@@thelaserchannel1 I got the Atomstack R30 V2 today it took about 15 minutes to mount and plug in. I haven’t tried the rotary yet, gotta find a brass tube I can practice on. On a flat piece of brass using fill w/cross hatch @45degrees 100%, 254mm/s and 0.127 mm interval I was able to engrave a filled circle that did not scratch off with my finger nail. Notes the focus pole is dead on, The brass needed a quarter in. piece of MDF on a honey comb to get the proper height, I Turned off Z control till I get Z offset figured out as well as startup auto-home and Return to Finish Position.

@@jameseler2898 Thank you for sharing!

@@thelaserchannel1 After a day with a lot of frustration I found the R30 on a Ikier does not work in absolute coordinates neither can I use Z offset to set the focus too many error messages and Lightburn lockups. Current Position and manual focus do work.

Thanks!

A24 Pro for the WIN (in the USA it's labeled as the X24 Pro)- it's preassembled, has an upgraded rail guide system for the x and y axis, and has a clean layout and cable management. The drawback is the unibody frame is all one piece so there's no option to expand the work area. The A24 Pro also has a slightly smaller work area. Either machine will engrave glass once it's coated with a marking agent like tempura paint. Both will color mark Stainless steel black- mirrored stainless steel will need a coating to keep the laser from reflecting back in the laser module and causing immediate damage. Hope this helps and best wishes.

@thelaserchannel1 WoW! This is way beyond than I expected . A trully professional answer. Thank you so much for your kindness ,Sir! I wish you all the best! KING REGARDS!