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It should be as fine as can be. If you are an AOS memebr (American Orchid Society), read the magazine from October 2020 on page 774. It explains how to use tree fern fiber properly. I buy mine at Green Barn Orchid Supply in Delray Beach, Florida. The brand is Fern Wood and the fiber comes from New Zealand where is it harvested with "reason"

So far mine blooms also around April-May once a year. The flowers last approx. 45 days. It is supposed to be free flowering but I assume it comes with age :)? I am not aware of strong variation in color for mariae though?

You can go back to my peristeria video and ask the question there but no problem: Peristeria elata is mostly dormant over the winter and you should limit watering. If the bulbs start shriveling, then you can water more. You should not stop watering entirely for 3 months, just reduce the watering. New bulbs only start growing in the spring (which is when you should repot if needed) and the flower spike develops almost at the same time but the spike grows MUCH faster than the bulb. If you live in the northern hemisphere, don't expect a new bulb or flowers this time of year.

@@orchidhouse Thank you!

Mormodes can be grown the same way at Catasetums but in my experience they should dry out between watering and I discovered that tree fern fiber works great. Mormodes rots VERY easily.

Thank you!

Yes. they never rebloom

Thank you! I use different media for different orchids. All my Cycnoches, Mormodes and Cycnodes are now grown in tree fern fiber

Great occupation if you are handy :)

Thank you!

My pleasure:))

I very much appreciate you thinking of me. I found one with Orchid Krub from Thailand but I will still contact Thahn at Springwater as his might be more mature. Thanks again

Obrigado!

Thank you very much! The medium is a mix of bark, perlite/sponge rock and charcoal

Les orchidées me prennent suffisamment de temps en dehors du travail. Nous n'avons que 24 heures par jour après tout AHAH

Thank you!

Thank you!

First of all: be patient! these are slow growers I would mount it and water it every day thoroughly. I water mine twice a day over the summer. If you don't like watering, then it needs to be in a pot but not sure what medium works best. This plant grows in Borneo which is extremely wet, humid and hot. You should also fertilize it more than other orchids. I fertilize mine 3 times per week (always "weakly") over the summer. It needs good light but I don't grow mine in direct sunlight

@ - Thank you very much for the advice. I have a lot of Vandas that just hang around without pots and I also water them daily, sometimes twice a day. So I will have to water them together. And somehow more light will have to be given. By the way, that wonderful garden is at home? Are orchids your hobby or work? Thank you once more.

@@StasysFPV Yes it is my hobby and my home garden. Where do you live?

@ - I live in Lithuania 🇱🇹 Vilnius. I have been interested in orchids for only 2 years. It all started with rescuing dying Phalaenopsis. But the collection is expanding rapidly. I have one hobby - FPV drones. You have a wonderful orchid garden 🪴

@@StasysFPV Thank you and greetings to Lietuva! By the way, I was born and raised in Brussels, Belgium.

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you for the tips :)

When in doubt, wait another day. When mounted, you can water every day (except if temps go below 70 F) This is a link to my video on general care for Cattleyas. I hope this helps th-cam.com/video/0OtJ8sGyXUg/w-d-xo.html

@ thank you very much!

Hi James! Greetings to Kentucky! Typically, orchids that do not bloom need more light. I have no experience with grow lights but I would recommend you put them outside during the "good season" (not sure of your weather pattern in KY). You can use shade cloth if they are too exposed to direct sunlight

@@orchidhouse Yes, I bet that lower light is the issue. Mine are in a west facing window with mini blinds open during the day. The grow lights are over the ones away from the window. Hopefully next summer I can figure out some way to put them outside. Thanks

Thank you!

Thank you The large clips came from a local orchid supply store. If you are in South Florida it is Green Barn Orchid Supplies out of Delray Beach. I believe you can buy online as well

These are absolutely gorgeous! 😍 Very well timed too.. I bought a 'No ID' cattleya just today that's about to bloom. It's potted in gravel, looks very healthy but the medium is bone dry. I'm very tempted to water it, but I'm afraid the potential bloom will blast.. help, please?

@@petrichor7121 Thank you! Watering a medium will not blast buds. Buds blast because of insect damage typically. If it looks bone dry go ahead and water it thoroughly and then let it dry out again. good luck!

@@orchidhouse I only just realized I commented in someone else's comment.. so sorry! Thanks for your reply tho! 💚 I'll be saving this video for future reference as well.. really, REALLY loved these plants! 🥰

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you! Florida is indeed perfect for growing orchids :)

Hi Helen! Thank you for your kind words and warm greetings to my Australian friends :)) Even if a terrestrial mix sounds a bit "off", my advice would be to keep it as is. When you repot a plant, it is like a person moving to a new home: it is stressful, you need to adjust to changes etc... For an orchid, when you change the type of medium it grows in, you add an extra layer of stress as the roots need to adjust to a new environment, especially when it comes to moisture retention. So if your orchid currently grows well and is happy, just keep the same medium as repotting in itself is stressful enough. Please remember that bifoliate Cattleyas (bowringiana is now called Guarianthe rather than Cattleya but that is semantics: it is a Central American Cattleya basically) are very sensitive to repot timing. You should only repot if you currently have active new root growth... and don't damage the new roots. Best of luck with your beautiful plant. Olivier

@@orchidhouse Thanks so much for the advice Olivier. It certainly is a beautiful orchid and the fragrance is just out of this world. Kind regards, Helen

😊😊😊

I am very happy to hear this! Thank you so much !

Cycnodes can bloom on leafless bulbs. If the bulb is hard and plump I would not water it. If it is not real hard, you can give a good soaking but do not water regularly. Thanks you for your kind words!

Hi! I am not familiar with Dendrobium pendulum but I looked it up in the "Baker & Baker" book on Dendrobium and they recommend * lots of light even full sun. I would try with a bit less light at first to see how it does in your environment but if no bloom = not enough light * lots of water during growing season but drastically reduce watering in winter Good luck!

Thank you! I will give it a try 😊

Greetings to my Aussie friends :) Yes all good here. We live 400 km SE of Tampa and had no damage. Thank you for your concern!

That is very kind of you. We live in Ft Lauderdale which is 400 km SE of Tampa and had no damage at all. Also thank you for being a fan of my channel. Greetings to NIPPON :))

@@orchidhouse I appreciate your quick response and kindness for teaching me thoroughly. What a relief! Thank you thank you.

Thank you very much for your input! In the mean time I bought one from Orchid Krub (Thailand) and NT Orchids from Malaysia also carries it. Thanks again!

Yes definitely. It is 63% Vanda coerulea which likes cold nights. You should be good to go for your San Diego winter nights in the low 40's It also has 32% of V. sanderiana which is the opposite: the least cold tolerant of them all. So this cross should be very tolerant of a wide range of temperatures!

Hi Tom, Frankly I do not advocate the mounting of Stanhopeas. I am giving it a try but they are hard to keep hydrated like that. As to your Stan tricornis, if it is anthracnose, I would try Pageant on them. It may also be that you should adjust the watering. I recommend a really good soaking but then let them dry out out barely (if new growth) and just approach dryness if advanced growths. Monitor the base of the new bulbs. they should get hard and gradually plump up. If they remain soft, it might be that they don't get enough water. I believe it may explain some of those behaviors where new growths systematically abort. Keep me posted

Thanks Olivier. I will try both the Pageant on the anthracnose and your new watering regime. I’ll be in touch.

Greetings to England and to you Howard and thank you for your kind words. Thrips are a real bane. I spray proactively every 5 or 6 days all my buds (exception for Oncidiums who are less affected from what i can tell) and I alternate orthene and conserve (spinosad) because if you use the same product over again, bugs develop resistance.

@@orchidhouse Thanks. I thought that might be the case. The problem in Europe is that all the chemicals that you could spot treat really difficult pests have been withdrawn from sale.

Thank you!