How to make a Locked Dyneema Loop

Dyneema loops are easy to make and a great addition to any sailors spare parts kit. The can be easily attached to any fixed point or rope to help connect pulley's or secure just about anything on your boat. The dyneema loop can be turned into a soft shackle in seconds with the addition of a simple overhand knot to one but one of my favourite uses.
This version of a Dyneema loop adds a lock which makes it secure under light load. While making the loop more secure the lock creates a small bump at the cross over point which may not be suitable for all use cases. It is however preferred when your uses case is not always under load.
The team at Bottom up Boats recommend using a D-Splicer to get the job done in minutes. If you don't have one follow the link below to get the gear to help you splice like a pro and speed up the time it takes to recreate you Dyneema Loops.
D-Splicer
amzn.to/3sLfgDz
Recommended items for your splicing kit.
bupboats.blogs...
If you need your Dyneema loop to run freely and the bump created by the lock is going to prevent this from happening you should learn the alternate method demonstrated in the video link below.
• How to make a Dyneema ...
If you liked this video and want to learn more splicing techniques the playlist below has all the info you need to learn this essential skill that we encourage every modern sailor to know.
• Splicing Rope
We hope you enjoyed todays video, thanks for stopping by and supporting Bottom up Boats, as an amazon associate we get commission from associated sales. As a small You Tube channel we really appreciate the support that these programs give us, it inspires and enables us to create more content for you.

[@aaronmcconnell7358]

The last video I watched on how to make this loop , made the process seem like quantum physics, this video was simple addition. Well done

[@BottomUPBoats]

Glad you liked it. If you do a couple of practices loops it becomes second nature before you can count to 3 👍

[@aaronmcconnell7358]

@@BottomUPBoats I'm going to give it a whirl ,thanks for posting.

[@ronbouchard2842]

Clear and easy. Thanks.

[@BottomUPBoats]

Glad you liked it and could follow along. Thanks for stopping by and engaging !!!

[@merrymoppet]

180 turn on a thin dyneema line May be ok, but I think anything over 6mm line this might present strength concern. consider making a best effort estimate of line loads percentage compared to dyneema breaking load. This way you might provide minimum diameter loop for say 4-8mm dyneema which usually require 50-72 diameters of bury, eg. 6mm line would require 30-43cm bury implying perhaps that the loop might need to be minimum 60-84cm long. This way line length could be estimated at 2x 120

[@BottomUPBoats]

All good points. I think I am going to have to invest in some technology to pressure test some of the breaking loads. Yes the U-Turn will reduce the load, if this is a worry you could go this version.
th-cam.com/video/NBKaGvPshew/w-d-xo.html
We suggest the locked loop for light load options, where the bigger risk is the loop coming undone. The version above will tighten on itself and have a higher breaking load.
Another consideration is the strength of modern rope, the breaking loads are so strong in most use cases I don't think the loop will create a concerns.
Finally if load and the size of the shackle needed to get the bury length you need is an issue you could always go for a soft shackle to make your loops.
Soft Shackle Options
th-cam.com/play/PLMoCfFBA9IMXC6P0b6Ql8822sZnthEYfk.html

[@RealRadNek]

Do you know the stress load this knot can take? Is it as strong as the rope itself or less?

[@BottomUPBoats]

I have not measured the break loads on this, as there are no knot the load should be at least as strong as the rope depending on the use case, with the key factor being if there are any load points with only one width of the rope around them.

[@marksardar4557]

Which tail do you pull through? Through itself or through the opposite?

[@BottomUPBoats]

I just watched it back, I should have called this out in the commentary. The tail goes back down the same side it started from (through itself). When you do the locking splice the exit of each tail should have it on the same side it started ready to run back through on itself. Good luck with you loops !

[@boumbo45]

I don't get why at 1:20, you insert the first end through the hole from the other side of the line...

[@BottomUPBoats]

This step creates the lock that is usually used if you were creating a brummel locking splice which holds the loop in place even when there is little or no load on the loop.
If you watch this following video it is the start start as in this one. The difference is that when you are marking an eye in the end of your rope you only bury one end of the rope (the working end into the standing end).
th-cam.com/video/q_hT726J0g8/w-d-xo.html
If you watch from 1:20 to around 1:40 this is shows the process of creating the brummel, to finish the loop you bury both end back on them self to create the loop, provide extra locking power with the bury, while limiting the size of the bump created at the lock.
I suggest you watch the following video where we create a loop with out the lock. In this example the loop is held in place by the pressure the outer core creates on the inner. It will hold find under load if the bury is long enough. It can slip under light or no load as the inner bury can work it way loose when no load is being applied. Hence the multiple options. This one as the advantage of very little or know bump at the point of the join.
th-cam.com/video/NBKaGvPshew/w-d-xo.html
Sorry for the length of the answer, hopefully this helps !!!