Thanks for these clear instructions. The hardest part is fishing through the cord. I was fighting it and doing it wrong. Grab the tapered section to fold over and pull completely through, otherwise there is too much bulk if you try to fish the full cord folded over. After this revelation it was much easier.
Thank you, sir! Just made one for my Dream Freebird. I wanted to make my head end a different color, and 8" vs 12" to allow a little more tarp coverage past my carabiners. Easy peasy!
Coming from your previous video on this topic I really appreciate the research you've put into this and would like to thank you for this clear and concise tutorial. Very well done, helped me a lot.
Hello Nick, I really like the way you laid everything out and made everything easy to understand...right up until you pushed the 2nd hole past the 1st hole and bent the line 180 degrees before burying it. Have you found anyone doing a strength test using your 180 degree bend? My best guess is that you reduce the loop strength by about 1/2 which is fine if you're not putting a heavy load or a shock load on it. I understand the abundance of caution when people stitch a locked brummel with thread, but honestly the loop should never come loose unless you're picking at the crossover between the 2 bury points...if you worry about that and are lazy, you could use some shrink-wrap tubing. By the way, if you want a strong splice, and you're using 1/8" rope, the bury should be about 9" (72 times the diameter, or ~3 1/2 fid if you have a full length fid). Meanwhile, I "liked" and saved your video just because I like how you calculated the lengths, and how you showed everyone that you don't need to buy a $70 fid kit...just a "poker" (a marlinspike) and a piece of wire :) I always wondered if the clamping shoelace threaders that look like fly-tying bobbins would work for larger diameters (1/4" or greater) of hollow core rope, for threading up the middle.
Thanks! I believe it got the needle from Walmart. It’s called an upholstery needle. Here’s a link to Amazon: 10'' Professional Upholstery Needle, 6 Gauge (10") www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y4L937L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_062Q3D0Y8366GK1FTN03?psc=1
Would be interesting to know how much the brummel will lower the breaking strength. Be course it will. Or the radical bend in the rope will. Better to just stich a normal loop.
Nice instructions! Is it possible to do smaller loops with shorter buries? Wouldn´t the loop hold its strength even with 1 inch bury since the brummel lock holds the loop together anyway?
beomaster100 it is possible to do a smaller loop, but its strength and integrity is still somewhat relative to the bury length. I attached a link to a similar loop where the author has tested the loop with varying bury lengths. They found that no bury (and shorter buries) did weaken the strength of the loop. Check it out! Thanks for the comment! Good luck splicing! www.animatedknots.com/grogsling/index.php
Just ordered the req'd items. Thanks for sharing. How much in a straight length to make 4 inch, 5 inch and 6 inch loops? or is 8 inch the minimum you can go? The video states use 2 extra inches addition per extra inch length, but does the opposite give the same effect? Thanks in advance
@@TripleNickelOutdoors I followed your video and managed to make a few. Very strong. I then wanted to undo one. Couldn't find a vid so I made one th-cam.com/video/aApjVtqnPZA/w-d-xo.html
Good job! Just watched it. I noticed you ran the continuous loop through the gathered end then tied it. I normally attach it to the gathered end by making a larks head knot. That way you can remove it without cutting it out. great job!
@@TripleNickelOutdoors yep, that was my issue and I didn't want to cut it. Quite enjoyable making your own items for use in the wild. More things to experiment with too.
If anyone watching this is an arborist or rock climber this video is not for you. While this is an awesome video and has great uses the method of this brummel splice would significantly reduce the line strength due to the sharp bend radius and the direction of pull relative to the brummel itself. (consider it like a dead eye loop on the end of a rope, its stength is preserved in one direction but pulling the loop itself apart sideways would not do well due to the brummel orientation) I imagine that it will break test similar to a knot even though it is spliced. Not an expert but unless someone can reliable break test this I would not use it for anything that can shock load this loop. You can brummel splice a loop and retain its strength, but to orient the brummel correctly (along the loop itself) it involves unbraiding and rebraiding an end of the rope. Just my 2 cents.
Thank you! A great tutorial, the best I saw so far. Here in Russia the Amsteel isn't readily available, but there is a local production of good coreless polyester ropes by "Petrokanat". Did I understand right : when tapering the ends, you just cut a half of rope's strands 1" from ends? If I will try to taper the ends gradually (for 12 strands: 1.5 in: cut 3, 1 in: cut 3, 0.5 in: cut 3, and 3 are left), will it be better for my loop strength and/or aesthetics?
Yes, taper approximately 1 inch from the end. Tapering the strands gradually does help for a smooth transition in the bury. This will aid in the overall strength in the loop and will avoid any bunching up of the internal strands. спасибо и удачи Nick
I’d need to experiment with different lengths to make the loop, but I’d probably start with a piece of cord 17 - 18 inches long and see if that works. (Rough math - 6 3/4 inches for the buries - minimum recommended bury is 3.3 inches, 2 inches of loss, 8 1/2 inches for the loop). Let me know if you try it before I do. Lol
I was able to make some 4" loops. 17 1/2 inches in Amsteel. 3 3/8 inch buries on each side including taper. It was a little tedious trying to bury the sides with not a lot of cordage to work with, but I was able to do it. I would test these loops before using them because you're at the minumum recommended bury length. Good luck!! Oh, and I might get an Empire Wool shirt now because of your review! I'll be sure to get a different color than you have though!! lol
I am receiving 180 feet this Saturday! I want to make some little four-inch continuous loops for my tarp prusiks and a couple spares to keep on my backpack. I have a couple zippers on my hip-belt pockets that I'll probably put the spare loops on to use as pulls and so they don't get lost. If I have to use one I'll just use some spare line that I intend to carry and tie a quick and dirty knot to replace the zipper pull on trail and make a proper prusik at home or at camp if I get bored. I also want to make a bunch of soft shackles to replace most of my carabiners. The mini-biner on my Thermarest Z-Seat has to stay because I like the ability to clip it on and off easily every time I sit down and stand up. It's going to be like early Christmas to get some string to play with! That sounds pretty sad, but I've been waiting to upgrade my camp line for awhile now.
Hey Happy Easter! Maybe cheat a little bit on where you make the hole for the buries. It’ll increase the loop size and shorten the buried material. Let me know how it turns out! Nick
Hi, I didn't understand how to make the loop smaller. Could you write it down? (maybe I got lost with the language). Also, is there a minimum recommended finished length loop based on the rope diameter? Thank you!
In the video, the number 16.5” is roughly double the size of the loop that will form. In the video, we end up with roughly an 8 inch loop. So if you want a 7 inch loop, use 14.5”. A 9” loop, use 18.5 inch, etc. hope this helps. Thanks
If you were making a longer loop would you want to increase the length of the bury? Also, is it important where the "bump" is oriented in the case of having it at the end of your hammock?
Hey Kevin. No, the bury length can stay the same. Just increase the middle length to accommodate whatever size you’re looking for. And I don’t think it matters where the bump is located. I like to leave the ‘bigger” portion of the cord (with the bury) on the inside of the gathered end material. Thanks for the comment! Nick
@@peterrizzuto1820 Due to the safety factor, I wouldn’t recommend anything for climbing that wasn’t properly rated and tested for that specific sport. It’s a lot different if you fall out of a hammock than off a cliff. Lol
Hello Kevin, The length of the bury should be 72 times the diameter of the line (or ~ 3 1/2 times a full length fid). 1/8" diameter gives you 9" but of course you can always go smaller and plenty of people do. I help my friends make up hollow braid loops at the end of their fishing line when they want to catch 200# tuna so they want to bury the splice quite a bit longer :)
@@NulodPBall I was always taught this as well to retain the full strength. Also the taper should be MUCH more gradual. Otherwise in break testing, it will always fail at the end of the bury.
If you want a real nice wire for slicing, go to the hobby shop and get a piece of small diameter music wire. Less than $1.00. 36 inches long. Cut it in half and then fold it in half and you can get 2 splicing tools out of one piece of wire. Music wire is stiff and feeds through the center very easily.
I just happened to have bailing wire (picture hanging wire) handy so that's what I use...I just make sure both side of the bend are equal so I don't catch any fibers.
Has anyone made them smaller loops, and put made multiple of them into a daisy chain for quick adjustments, (as well as providing multiple points to quickly hang things on the hammock line, such as with mini carabiners)? I'd make them separately, and them attach them, so they could easily be added and subtracted as desired. Would attaching it weeken the lines to make them into daisy chains that way. I currenly use a different kind of line, and I cut a bunch of pieces and made each into a little loop with a bowline knot, and then burned the ends. I"ve used it for years that way, with no issues, but I've not worked with amsteel before, and I want to switch over to it.
I haven’t seen a daisy chain made using Amsteel, but they do make dasiy chains of webbing that have multiple attachment points. Try it out. Maybe it’ll work for you!
Thanks for your reply. The downside if they have to be 8"loops. Do you have to bury 4" of each end for it to be reliable whey using the locked brummel method you described? Or, do you think I could half that, for 4 inch loops to gain more incremental positions for adjustability with the daisy chain? Thanks again for your help. : )
If you start with 17 1/2 inches of cord and use 3 3/8” buries that should give you 4” loops. But just remember-- don’t hang higher than you’re willing to fall!
@@UTFamilyLawAttorney Hello, the length of the bury should be 72 times the diameter of the line (or ~ 3 1/2 times a full length fid). 1/8" diameter gives you 9" but of course you can always go smaller and plenty of people do. For smaller loops, I just make sure the inner part of the splice goes out to the halfway point, but honestly for smaller loops I just tie a button knot or an Oysterman's knot...or a figure-8 knot.
Make a good smooth taper and get a thinner gauge wire that doesn’t take up as much space through the core of the cord. I think I use 22 gauge floral wire that they sell at Michael’s.
I noticed that too. I scrolled until I found someone with sharp eyes. You cannot make a locked brummel in a loop unless you unbraid and rebraid one of the free ends. The technique shown here relies on the chinese finger trap action of the rope (pure friction) and does not use the braid to lock as does a brummel. For those who want to see why go look at The Rigging Doctor channel and he demonstrates how this cheat brummel will come out with time. Also the burying should not involve folding the rope back on itself as that creates a stress point and that is where the loop in this demonstration will break.
@@jampasritalon4180 Actually, before watching this, I made a locked brummel without dealing with untwisting the "braid". I think you're confusing a twisted braid, vs. a hollow braid...and this tutorial is for a hollow braid. I do agree with you about the 180 bend making the loop break at a lower number.
@@NulodPBall Not my first rodeo. I stick with my statement. I have saved others from similar errors as far away as Australia. One guy used a false brummel on his centerboard line before talking with me. That was nearly catostrophic. Rebraiding is only needed for a loop. Regular eye splices may be done with a mobius brummel.
@@jampasritalon4180 I apologize, I just saw the video "...Make a Dyneema Deadeye" by the Rigging Doctor and saw what you meant...my brain would not be able to re-braid. FYI: I know this isn't your first rodeo but I was curious - was that guy using a proper bury? for a 1/8" line the bury size is 9", so the loop needs to be 2x9= 18" in diameter. (I just made a loop of 1/4" line that's 24" in diameter instead of 36" - or an 18" bury and it feels solid but now I'm doubting it's holding power) I'm pretty sure I saw a video where someone, instead of re-braiding, they inverted and pulled the line through...if you're interested, I'll find it and post the link.
Very well done....no stories, no BS.....just straight up education !!! Two thumbs up here 👍👍
Thanks! I appreciate it!
Thanks for these clear instructions. The hardest part is fishing through the cord. I was fighting it and doing it wrong. Grab the tapered section to fold over and pull completely through, otherwise there is too much bulk if you try to fish the full cord folded over. After this revelation it was much easier.
I agree 100%. Too much bill makes it difficult to pull through. The more you do it the easier it is.
Good luck!
Thank you, sir! Just made one for my Dream Freebird. I wanted to make my head end a different color, and 8" vs 12" to allow a little more tarp coverage past my carabiners. Easy peasy!
Glad you found it useful! Happy hanging!
Thanks a lot!! I persevered and finished two loops (after numerous trials). Was a breeze once you got the hang of it.
I agree. Once you get how to do it, it’s not that hard!
Enjoy,
Nick
Great instructional video. Thank you. Doing my first time on 1/8 in Amsteel.
Thanks for the comment! Enjoy!
Great instructions, just made my first loop....awesome...very happy., many thanks
Excellent demonstration,Thank you sir!
Thanks for the comment!
Coming from your previous video on this topic I really appreciate the research you've put into this and would like to thank you for this clear and concise tutorial. Very well done, helped me a lot.
Waldwärts awesome! Glad it helped!! Have fun splicing!!
This will work good on a sailboat as well. Great video
Thanks for commenting!
Hello Nick, I really like the way you laid everything out and made everything easy to understand...right up until you pushed the 2nd hole past the 1st hole and bent the line 180 degrees before burying it.
Have you found anyone doing a strength test using your 180 degree bend?
My best guess is that you reduce the loop strength by about 1/2 which is fine if you're not putting a heavy load or a shock load on it.
I understand the abundance of caution when people stitch a locked brummel with thread, but honestly the loop should never come loose unless you're picking at the crossover between the 2 bury points...if you worry about that and are lazy, you could use some shrink-wrap tubing.
By the way, if you want a strong splice, and you're using 1/8" rope, the bury should be about 9" (72 times the diameter, or ~3 1/2 fid if you have a full length fid).
Meanwhile, I "liked" and saved your video just because I like how you calculated the lengths, and how you showed everyone that you don't need to buy a $70 fid kit...just a "poker" (a marlinspike) and a piece of wire :)
I always wondered if the clamping shoelace threaders that look like fly-tying bobbins would work for larger diameters (1/4" or greater) of hollow core rope, for threading up the middle.
Many thanks for a great tutorial on how to do this : )
Thanks!👍
Great video. Thanks for showing. Best regards
Thanks for watching!
Great video. Thanks
Thank you for show everyone. Where did you get the long needle from?
Thanks! I believe it got the needle from Walmart. It’s called an upholstery needle.
Here’s a link to Amazon:
10'' Professional Upholstery Needle, 6 Gauge (10") www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y4L937L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_062Q3D0Y8366GK1FTN03?psc=1
@@TripleNickelOutdoors thank you. I have TH-cam channel too. Just wanted to know how do you add links to your comments?
Go to the website and copy the link. Then paste it in the comment.
@@TripleNickelOutdoors thank you. I really do appreciate it. Have great day
Would be interesting to know how much the brummel will lower the breaking strength. Be course it will. Or the radical bend in the rope will. Better to just stich a normal loop.
Nice instructions! Is it possible to do smaller loops with shorter buries? Wouldn´t the loop hold its strength even with 1 inch bury since the brummel lock holds the loop together anyway?
beomaster100 it is possible to do a smaller loop, but its strength and integrity is still somewhat relative to the bury length. I attached a link to a similar loop where the author has tested the loop with varying bury lengths. They found that no bury (and shorter buries) did weaken the strength of the loop.
Check it out! Thanks for the comment! Good luck splicing!
www.animatedknots.com/grogsling/index.php
Just ordered the req'd items. Thanks for sharing. How much in a straight length to make 4 inch, 5 inch and 6 inch loops? or is 8 inch the minimum you can go? The video states use 2 extra inches addition per extra inch length, but does the opposite give the same effect? Thanks in advance
Yes, you can go smaller, use the same measurements but in the opposite direction.
Good luck!
@@TripleNickelOutdoors I followed your video and managed to make a few. Very strong. I then wanted to undo one. Couldn't find a vid so I made one th-cam.com/video/aApjVtqnPZA/w-d-xo.html
Good job! Just watched it. I noticed you ran the continuous loop through the gathered end then tied it. I normally attach it to the gathered end by making a larks head knot. That way you can remove it without cutting it out. great job!
@@TripleNickelOutdoors yep, that was my issue and I didn't want to cut it. Quite enjoyable making your own items for use in the wild. More things to experiment with too.
@@hubby-tubadventures01 that’s why I enjoy it! It feels good building your own stuff! Hopefully it works. Lol
Great video
Is the bury considered a 4 inch bury or an 8 inch bury (4 inches per side)?
Thank you, this was very clear.
Thanks Joe. Hope it helped!
Triple Nickel Outdoors It sure did. I may or may not have 20 feet of amsteel on the way. 😜
Great Instructional video. I am interested in the needle. Where might one get one of those?
I’m pretty sure I got it at Walmart or Michaels. They’re in the sewing section. 👍
Great video!
Rick Nadeau thanks!! Hope it helped!
If anyone watching this is an arborist or rock climber this video is not for you. While this is an awesome video and has great uses the method of this brummel splice would significantly reduce the line strength due to the sharp bend radius and the direction of pull relative to the brummel itself. (consider it like a dead eye loop on the end of a rope, its stength is preserved in one direction but pulling the loop itself apart sideways would not do well due to the brummel orientation) I imagine that it will break test similar to a knot even though it is spliced. Not an expert but unless someone can reliable break test this I would not use it for anything that can shock load this loop. You can brummel splice a loop and retain its strength, but to orient the brummel correctly (along the loop itself) it involves unbraiding and rebraiding an end of the rope. Just my 2 cents.
Thank you! A great tutorial, the best I saw so far.
Here in Russia the Amsteel isn't readily available, but there is a local production of good coreless polyester ropes by "Petrokanat". Did I understand right : when tapering the ends, you just cut a half of rope's strands 1" from ends? If I will try to taper the ends gradually (for 12 strands: 1.5 in: cut 3, 1 in: cut 3, 0.5 in: cut 3, and 3 are left), will it be better for my loop strength and/or aesthetics?
Yes, taper approximately 1 inch from the end. Tapering the strands gradually does help for a smooth transition in the bury. This will aid in the overall strength in the loop and will avoid any bunching up of the internal strands.
спасибо и удачи
Nick
Very cool. I may have to get into this more. How small a Loop is possible? I’m looking for a couple of 4”ers. Great vid!
I’d need to experiment with different lengths to make the loop, but I’d probably start with a piece of cord 17 - 18 inches long and see if that works. (Rough math - 6 3/4 inches for the buries - minimum recommended bury is 3.3 inches, 2 inches of loss, 8 1/2 inches for the loop). Let me know if you try it before I do. Lol
I was able to make some 4" loops. 17 1/2 inches in Amsteel. 3 3/8 inch buries on each side including taper. It was a little tedious trying to bury the sides with not a lot of cordage to work with, but I was able to do it. I would test these loops before using them because you're at the minumum recommended bury length. Good luck!! Oh, and I might get an Empire Wool shirt now because of your review! I'll be sure to get a different color than you have though!! lol
Triple Nickel Outdoors that shirt is pretty sweet. Oh, now I have to get splicing tools....thanks a lot....
I am receiving 180 feet this Saturday! I want to make some little four-inch continuous loops for my tarp prusiks and a couple spares to keep on my backpack. I have a couple zippers on my hip-belt pockets that I'll probably put the spare loops on to use as pulls and so they don't get lost. If I have to use one I'll just use some spare line that I intend to carry and tie a quick and dirty knot to replace the zipper pull on trail and make a proper prusik at home or at camp if I get bored.
I also want to make a bunch of soft shackles to replace most of my carabiners. The mini-biner on my Thermarest Z-Seat has to stay because I like the ability to clip it on and off easily every time I sit down and stand up.
It's going to be like early Christmas to get some string to play with! That sounds pretty sad, but I've been waiting to upgrade my camp line for awhile now.
Where did you get that needle and what size is it
Useing your measurements my continuous loops come out to 71/4 to 71/2 inch loops what am I doing wrong ? Like your videos
Hey Happy Easter! Maybe cheat a little bit on where you make the hole for the buries. It’ll increase the loop size and shorten the buried material. Let me know how it turns out! Nick
Hi, I didn't understand how to make the loop smaller. Could you write it down? (maybe I got lost with the language). Also, is there a minimum recommended finished length loop based on the rope diameter? Thank you!
In the video, the number 16.5” is roughly double the size of the loop that will form. In the video, we end up with roughly an 8 inch loop.
So if you want a 7 inch loop, use 14.5”. A 9” loop, use 18.5 inch, etc.
hope this helps. Thanks
Nice tutorial, but I'm curious about one thing: Why use a tape measure when you've got the Fiskars mat right there?? Just seems.... odd.
I figured more people would be using a tape measure vs. the mat.
I'd like to make a 1.5 inch loop. Is that possible?
Actually, a 3 inch loop so when it's pulled taught it will be 1.5 inch
If you were making a longer loop would you want to increase the length of the bury? Also, is it important where the "bump" is oriented in the case of having it at the end of your hammock?
Hey Kevin. No, the bury length can stay the same. Just increase the middle length to accommodate whatever size you’re looking for.
And I don’t think it matters where the bump is located. I like to leave the ‘bigger” portion of the cord (with the bury) on the inside of the gathered end material.
Thanks for the comment!
Nick
@@TripleNickelOutdoors I know Kevin’s use is for a hammock, if I am making an 18” loop for use in climbing would the burys need to be bigger?
@@peterrizzuto1820 Due to the safety factor, I wouldn’t recommend anything for climbing that wasn’t properly rated and tested for that specific sport. It’s a lot different if you fall out of a hammock than off a cliff. Lol
Hello Kevin,
The length of the bury should be 72 times the diameter of the line (or ~ 3 1/2 times a full length fid). 1/8" diameter gives you 9" but of course you can always go smaller and plenty of people do.
I help my friends make up hollow braid loops at the end of their fishing line when they want to catch 200# tuna so they want to bury the splice quite a bit longer :)
@@NulodPBall I was always taught this as well to retain the full strength. Also the taper should be MUCH more gradual. Otherwise in break testing, it will always fail at the end of the bury.
Nice video! And a nice mug of my home country (Netherlands) :-)
Luuk Dingemanse thanks! One of my friends had business over there and knew I collected them! Cheers!
If you want a real nice wire for slicing, go to the hobby shop and get a piece of small diameter music wire. Less than $1.00. 36 inches long. Cut it in half and then fold it in half and you can get 2 splicing tools out of one piece of wire. Music wire is stiff and feeds through the center very easily.
Art Lee thanks for the tip! I’ve since started using floral wire.... works great also!! Thanks for checking out the vid!!
I just happened to have bailing wire (picture hanging wire) handy so that's what I use...I just make sure both side of the bend are equal so I don't catch any fibers.
What rope was used to make the loop?
7/64” Amsteel 👍
Can you do this with 1.75 Zing-It? Have you already? the only other tutorial online is out of focus, and is for the deaf. :-P
You should be able to. I wouldn’t use the zing it to support my weight but they should make great loops for other applications.
@@TripleNickelOutdoors now I just have to find a knitting needle the correct diameter to fit inside of the Zing-It.
I don’t use a sewing needle to splice. I use .22 gauge floral wire.
Has anyone made them smaller loops, and put made multiple of them into a daisy chain for quick adjustments, (as well as providing multiple points to quickly hang things on the hammock line, such as with mini carabiners)? I'd make them separately, and them attach them, so they could easily be added and subtracted as desired. Would attaching it weeken the lines to make them into daisy chains that way. I currenly use a different kind of line, and I cut a bunch of pieces and made each into a little loop with a bowline knot, and then burned the ends. I"ve used it for years that way, with no issues, but I've not worked with amsteel before, and I want to switch over to it.
I haven’t seen a daisy chain made using Amsteel, but they do make dasiy chains of webbing that have multiple attachment points.
Try it out. Maybe it’ll work for you!
Thanks for your reply. The downside if they have to be 8"loops. Do you have to bury 4" of each end for it to be reliable whey using the locked brummel method you described? Or, do you think I could half that, for 4 inch loops to gain more incremental positions for adjustability with the daisy chain? Thanks again for your help. : )
If you start with 17 1/2 inches of cord and use 3 3/8” buries that should give you 4” loops.
But just remember-- don’t hang higher than you’re willing to fall!
@@UTFamilyLawAttorney Hello, the length of the bury should be 72 times the diameter of the line (or ~ 3 1/2 times a full length fid). 1/8" diameter gives you 9" but of course you can always go smaller and plenty of people do. For smaller loops, I just make sure the inner part of the splice goes out to the halfway point, but honestly for smaller loops I just tie a button knot or an Oysterman's knot...or a figure-8 knot.
Everyone makes it look easy, I went through 3 sets of scissors and non cut it. Never mind getting it pulled thru , I get about 1/2 way.
Make a good smooth taper and get a thinner gauge wire that doesn’t take up as much space through the core of the cord. I think I use 22 gauge floral wire that they sell at Michael’s.
Triple Nickel Outdoors hmm I had 18 gauge wire sold at hobby lobby
Triple Nickel Outdoors I bought a loop turner and it went perfect
Excellent and even better if you want talk and display metric measurements. Remember that almost every other country uses the simple metric system.
Looks like 8 1/4"
That is not a locking brummel!!! If you pull the loop without burry it will get loose!
I noticed that too. I scrolled until I found someone with sharp eyes. You cannot make a locked brummel in a loop unless you unbraid and rebraid one of the free ends. The technique shown here relies on the chinese finger trap action of the rope (pure friction) and does not use the braid to lock as does a brummel. For those who want to see why go look at The Rigging Doctor channel and he demonstrates how this cheat brummel will come out with time. Also the burying should not involve folding the rope back on itself as that creates a stress point and that is where the loop in this demonstration will break.
@@jampasritalon4180 Actually, before watching this, I made a locked brummel without dealing with untwisting the "braid".
I think you're confusing a twisted braid, vs. a hollow braid...and this tutorial is for a hollow braid.
I do agree with you about the 180 bend making the loop break at a lower number.
@@NulodPBall Not my first rodeo. I stick with my statement. I have saved others from similar errors as far away as Australia. One guy used a false brummel on his centerboard line before talking with me. That was nearly catostrophic. Rebraiding is only needed for a loop. Regular eye splices may be done with a mobius brummel.
@@jampasritalon4180 I apologize, I just saw the video "...Make a Dyneema Deadeye" by the Rigging Doctor and saw what you meant...my brain would not be able to re-braid.
FYI: I know this isn't your first rodeo but I was curious - was that guy using a proper bury? for a 1/8" line the bury size is 9", so the loop needs to be 2x9= 18" in diameter.
(I just made a loop of 1/4" line that's 24" in diameter instead of 36" - or an 18" bury and it feels solid but now I'm doubting it's holding power)
I'm pretty sure I saw a video where someone, instead of re-braiding, they inverted and pulled the line through...if you're interested, I'll find it and post the link.
@@NulodPBall i make mistakes too