I’m not a sailor (yet!) but I am a rock climber. I’m using this to add another belay loop or two to my climbing harness. Thanks for the great demonstration! I may just have to get into splicing now too...
You can lock a brummel without unbraiding and rebraiding the line. Same way you make a brummel eye splice. Yah, there is a little bump when you bury the ends...Imagine trying to do it this way with small diameter dyneema. You can also do it without the bump, but sew and whip the crossover. I use deadeyes as part of my shroud cascades between the chainplates and shrouds using lashings; so I know my way works safely and takes minutes not hours to create.
Cool, Herby! But I have to admit I started getting a bit confused at the point where you went to twelve strands and began re-braiding. I'll have to watch this a few more times before I attempt it. 😁
I love love the concept of doing everything with line and knots. In general life from fishing rigs to securing loads I've always loved the pure rope and clever trickery to attach things. So downside to Dyneema is the variable length, that's a pain... your method with the deadeyes and lashings is undoubtably extremely strong but it's not adjustable enough. What about doing your eyelet to eyelet, locked in buried ends setup but make it a few feet short, instead of lashings to set the tension... a truckers hitch, double geared if you want. So far as I understand that mechanical knot is used in transport industry because it's fast to tie, very very strong and able to withstand sudden shocking forces, doesn't compromise the strength of the rope and doesn't slip. In transport rachet straps have taken over because they're even better with great surface area and good friction surface to hold the loads, but, in your case where you're just seeking line tension... maybe? Downside I can think of is that it may not look as sleek and also therefore catch more wind. But you're very clever with rigging, why not some mechanical advantaged knot on all your standing rigging?
Thanks for this great tutorial Herby. We really appreciate it. Used it today to make a loop to hold a low friction ring to a track car and it turned out great ;). Cheers~
It would be interesting to see failure break comparison of these and what they replace. The rope to steel cable comparison shows dyema much better but this I’m not aware of a test
We just haven’t published it yet, but I wanted to make it available to those who need the information now. It’s searchable on Google and through my website, as well as in the playlists on our channel. We have a lot of these technical videos that are still unlisted, so be sure to check through them for further information!
AND a great shout out to Sailing ZINGARO (and he mentioned you as his mentor for his standing rigging) .... he showed us the same technique in his standing rigging replacement episode on its late ZINGARO Cat, which by the way was save by Dyneema too .... Thank you for showing us how to create this step in a complete synthetic standing rigging.
I met a guy in Terceira that sailed there on a Jesters Challenge years ago. The island is so beautiful that he stayed there. Be careful with the islands charm 😉 we found it really hard to sail away ourselves but after 10 months we realized it was time to keep sailing ⛵️
Nice video. If you mark the 12 strands in different colors and while unravelling you can figure out the paterns. Then you can use a disc similar to Kummihimo Bradiding wheel and rebraid it to a more natural hallow braid. You just have to practice with the weights in the center till you fine tune the braiding to the natural state from the factory.
@@RiggingDoctor yeah it is. Umm is it possible to do a double braid locking brummel splice. I haven’t been able to find anything. I’m thinking no but I don’t know for sure. I know I could pull the core do the brummel splice and bury the out core. But however if it’s done that way will it have the same strength as being pulled by both braids or does the inner core always carry the load anyway.
That’s a fascinating way to do it. Clearly going to be strong enough even with the bastardized braid in one side of the locked Brummell. Ever used the soft fids from DSplicer? They’ve been a game changer for both double braid and Dyneema splicing. Would love for you to send one of those to the guys at HowNot2Highline for a break strength test. Thanks for sharing.
I’ve seen their stuff and it’s really informative! I haven’t used the D splicer because it’s rather expensive for what it is. I have a piece of folded wire that works well enough on small strands but not as good as the real thing!
Herbie please give me some advice. I have a 1972 Irwin 37 Ketch rig. She has 1/4 cable on the main & 1/8 on the Mizzen. All the standing rigging is trash. I sat here & worked my fingers to the bone to make this ring out of 1/4’ Dyneena. So my thought is to go up to 5/16’ for my deadeyes & stays. Make the stays shorter in order to conserve money as the 5/16 costs a good bit more. Then make the section of wraps from the stay to the deadeye at around 3-4’. Is this acceptable? Any advice you could give me would be Greatly appreciated.
Wow, my hat is off to you. I can follow this in my mind all the way but to come up with this, that's something else. I nearly choked when you said just unravel this end and rebraid it. But this looks merely tricky not impossible. Will try it just for the joy of knowing I can do it. Btw, how many tries did it take to perfect this?
Two. The idea came to me of unbraiding and rebraiding the line in a dream. I woke up and gave it a try! The first one I did just down to the bottom and when I set the splice, it was too short. The second time I wrapped the bury 3/4 of the way around so when the splice was pulled back out, they still overlapped a little. The first two tries are the ones I now use as fair leads when I tension the lashings. Thanks for watching, figuring it out was like a Rubik’s Cube on steroids!
How did you calculate the shorter tail length, compared to the 72x the diameter? 😁 Edit: We just rewatched it and caught it! Great video, thank you for posting about your process!!
No need to unbraid the line. I have made many of these out of 1 inch and 1 1/8 inch dyneema and used them extensively, some to the point of failure. Never once did my splice ever try to pull out. We call these doughnuts in my industry. I can tell you from experience it takes a hell of a lot of force to break on of these.
All those soft slings/sausage slings/ round slings,you know how they are finished,they tie an overhand knot.What you see on the outside is nothing like what’s going on in the inside.I have tested tons of these on a test bed,bits hanging out all over the place,just held together by friction.They are just ONE piece of polyester wound round and round 😂😂😂😂😂
The chainplate has a tiny and sharp hole. This just gives the lashings something smoother and bigger to bend around and keep the material happy. If you have very large and rounded chainplates, you could skip the middleman!
Inspectability. When the Dyneema is inside a cover, you can’t see if it is having issues. This method allows you to look at the line that is under load and under stress to evaluate how it is doing with a quick glance. The multiple wraps in a cover method is nice because it lets you use a smaller and cheaper line to make the loop where this uses a thicker and more expensive line. On another note, the multiple wrap method can have some issues if binding occurs where one of the strands takes more load than the others and then breaks prematurely. This method makes sure that all the load is evenly set on a line that can take the load.
I vaguely remember a way to invert the loop through the splice, so you don't have to re-brade like you did. Do you know what that method is called? I'm having troubles finding it again. It's been a few years since I had to do it.... Thanks.
When doing an eye splice: th-cam.com/video/UpkqJ4GRfSg/w-d-xo.html On that video, there is a link to a blog post I wrote which has step by step pictures as well if that is more helpful for you.
I've tried this with 3/8" line. So I bought 3/8" heavy duty thimbles - but they seem too small since the 3/8" line now has a couple loops inside the weave, making its diameter larger. Curious what size thimbles you used for your line.
For the chainplate side, I use the size that fits in the toggle that attaches it to the chainplate. It’s on the smaller side but as the deadeye gets loaded it thins out and fits the small thimble. On the stay side, I use up to a 3/4” just to give more space to fit the lashings.
@@RiggingDoctor I guess I better figure out which toggle (to chainplate) I'm going to use before I set the thimble. And maybe upsize my 3/8" thimble on the shroud side to maybe at least a half inch. This is for about a 37' mast on a catamaran.
What's your thaught concerning synthetic chainplates? Can they be made from the same material as dynema ( ony in a solid plastic cutting board type form ) and would it be cost effective?
I’ve used the board material for backing plates for winches, clutches, and chainplates. Polyethylene works great under compression but will tend to distort over time. Under tension it will creep, which would be the situation as a chainplate. My favorite chainplate material is still bronze. Si-bronze for normal chainplates or Mn-bronze for high strain chainplates.
Am I correct to guess that the strength of this loop is 400% of rope strength? Since you have at least one “rope” buried inside another, so x2 and it’s a loop, so x2 again, therefore, 400%.
In theory, but the bury isn’t as long as it should be and the turns of the splice weaken it slightly. I plan on it being at least as strong as the stay itself, but it’s not the expected point of failure in the rigging.
There has got to be a better way than that. My suggestion is to Sid from the outside to the inside of the Luke and then thread the inside line through itself and then pull the loop through it after pulling the loop spot then thread both ends into the core of the loop. In addition I would paper the Flies sock them and then thread the socks beside each other so as that the dynamic actually rotates around itself three times ensuring the greatest strengths as well as a near perfectly symmetrical rope all the way around. However quite frankly replating a cord is not that hard if you're using a turtshead guide and weights at the end of every line and thinning the brade is a simple matter of cutting out a strand where you need to as you go replating it. Basically I'm saying don't look for a shortcut learn how to do it the right way and you will not have any failures. Beyond that when somebody is inspecting your rigging you don't want them to know where you started and where you ended because it is a planted Mobius Loop with an invisible double core. Everything else is failure waiting to have. Start with five and a quarter times the amount of rope that you're going to need find the center of the Rope and mark off 1/2 of the length of the final link that you want on either side from the center. Manage each cord by wrapping it around lead line and then wrapping the lead line around that cord has a cinch to keep it from unwinding. Now start planting your line over the top of your ring halfway so is that they come together where you will have your lines cross each other and then fit all the way through to the other side Mark each line as to where you want to have it cut cut it and fit it at that point unless it is a shortcut at which point in time Market fit it send the feed back into the center and passed pull the line all the way through headed at that point and then stretch the line back to the core do not worry about plating because you're only attempting to get that line back to the core of the loop continue this process sending all of the lines back to the core of the loop until you have sent each side all the way around and you have ran out of cords to feed back into the core. Now all of the lines are buried in the core and the entire Loop is as strong as it can possibly be and nobody knows where you started or where you finished as your entire Loop is exactly the same diameter and density all the way around not to mention all of your tips are buried in the core. For maximum strength you can inject latex into the core of the loop to help hold the tips from slipping as a milkweed latex and a little bit of urine will ensure that you have a beautiful latex at which point in time you lay your rings out in the sun on aluminum foil and bake them creating a rubber core rosin that will be three socks and uv-guarded. If anybody knows how to make a stronger Mobius Loop than that they are one damn fine genius.
That sounds pretty impressive! I will have to sit down and give this a try. The ones I made in 2015 are still going strong, but just because something works doesn’t mean that it’s perfected 😉
@@RiggingDoctor because often times you're only capable of using one end of the Rope to create the knot it is best if you can figure out how to do it using just one side and by creating a problem at the end of the line in order to correct it in the middle you can create a sliding locking bind and by simply passing the end through after correcting you will be able to make an even stronger double locking which will allow you to create a soft binder I use them frequently when I'm pulling Jeeps out of the mud or gathering logs in the river. And though it does require a 20 power magnifying glass I also make soft binders on the end of my braided fishing line so I don't have that brass swivel clamp making a big splash in front of my lure as well as so that I can change between floating line and sinking line on my fly reel without having to run my entire floating line or Sinking line through the loop in my filler line because putting a soft opening binder between the braided filler line and the fly line it sounds a little crazy but it's guaranteed to go through the eyes like a carrot not and yet unlike a carrot knot you never have to cut your line to change from a floating line to a sinking line I started using it on my fishing line because the bowl not at the end of the soft binder is a double fishing knot and it was the perfect way to set up for a day of fishing for shark or barracuda because you're always replacing shark later why just why not just make it easy and snail the hooks directly to the leader leaving a loop at the back end that you can put a soft binder on and boom everybody else's fighting to tie two lines together so that they can get themselves back in the water and I just switch out hooks because they're pretty snails the night before and I don't have to bring my pliers just to get another hook in the water. In addition soft binders make a very effective soft carabiner fully capable of pulling the pin right out of the Rock if you're a climber because under tension they naturally sit down over the double fisherman's knot and refuse to come loose until you relax the tension and pull on both the double fisherman's not and the appropriate side of the double-aired soft binder and when they're made out of the Kevlar sleeve you can actually risk your life on them because the only way they're coming loose is if you take them loose you'll burn up your climbing rope before you break the binder and unlike carabiners if you lose one it's only going to cost you a little bit of rope and a little bit of time to create you can do that while you're hanging no need to go climb down the mountain and go back to the store.
Yes, back in 2014 I invented this splice to make a deadeye and a new knot which allowed you to tie off the lashings of the shrouds, which enabled you to tension synthetic standing rigging on larger boats. I’m not as flashy as some of the other TH-cam channels that have made videos about “how to do synthetic rigging” but I am the one who invented the process.
Like a rope strop? That would work, but the result would be really long. By doing it this way you end up with a much shorter unit. The grommet made out of 9mm Dyneema is about 10 to 12 inches long while a strop needs enough bury length making the center section a minimum of 51 inches long. Basically, it’s just to make them shorter.
That was the original problem with the headstay as the first hank needs to be close to the deck. That’s why I had to come up with a shorter system, the grommet solved the riddle!
12 strand braid is not that deferent from how you braided the 4 stand. Start with the outside strands and work your way in. Look up how to braid a 550 cord bullwhip and will see if pretty easy. I've made one before and once you learn the groove it is fast and easy.
Sorry about the confusion. My intention was to show you how to do it and common missteps so that if you were doing a misstep, you could recognize it and correct it promptly.
Overly complex and confusing. "This one" and "That one" over on this side and that one over there. The line is the same color and you're flipping it over and back and forth. Why not try labeling the parts of the line as A and B or something so people can at least try and follow the explanation. Better tutorials are out there
Sorry for the confusion. I invented this system and am trying to present it in a way that others can learn and copy to use on their own boats. I will try again with a new version of the video.
![[How to] Dyneema Eye Splice | Sailing Wisdom](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UpkqJ4GRfSg/mqdefault.jpg)
![Double Braid Eye Splice | Sailing Wisdom [How to]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kNuhAVVzNd0/mqdefault.jpg)
The first time i've seen properly made locked brummel on continuous loop which prevent loop from loose. Thumb UP!
I’m not a sailor (yet!) but I am a rock climber. I’m using this to add another belay loop or two to my climbing harness. Thanks for the great demonstration! I may just have to get into splicing now too...
I will probably never make one but I enjoyed watching you make it. Thanks!
You can lock a brummel without unbraiding and rebraiding the line. Same way you make a brummel eye splice. Yah, there is a little bump when you bury the ends...Imagine trying to do it this way with small diameter dyneema. You can also do it without the bump, but sew and whip the crossover. I use deadeyes as part of my shroud cascades between the chainplates and shrouds using lashings; so I know my way works safely and takes minutes not hours to create.
Thank you so much. I never could fully comprehand the dynamics of mobius brummel splice until today.
Cool, Herby! But I have to admit I started getting a bit confused at the point where you went to twelve strands and began re-braiding. I'll have to watch this a few more times before I attempt it. 😁
You make the complicated seem easy. I'm pretty good with knots and teaching others but this is something I could do. Thanks.
I love love the concept of doing everything with line and knots. In general life from fishing rigs to securing loads I've always loved the pure rope and clever trickery to attach things. So downside to Dyneema is the variable length, that's a pain... your method with the deadeyes and lashings is undoubtably extremely strong but it's not adjustable enough. What about doing your eyelet to eyelet, locked in buried ends setup but make it a few feet short, instead of lashings to set the tension... a truckers hitch, double geared if you want. So far as I understand that mechanical knot is used in transport industry because it's fast to tie, very very strong and able to withstand sudden shocking forces, doesn't compromise the strength of the rope and doesn't slip. In transport rachet straps have taken over because they're even better with great surface area and good friction surface to hold the loads, but, in your case where you're just seeking line tension... maybe? Downside I can think of is that it may not look as sleek and also therefore catch more wind. But you're very clever with rigging, why not some mechanical advantaged knot on all your standing rigging?
Really digging these bonus videos. And thanks once again for the lesson Herb.
Thanks for this great tutorial Herby. We really appreciate it. Used it today to make a loop to hold a low friction ring to a track car and it turned out great ;). Cheers~
Glad it came in handy!!
Watching again! Great Instructor !!
Very useful information as always, thanks Herbie and Maddie!
That's some advanced stuff, great!
Euw...Now I know Why I’m just an armchair Sailor 😜 Fair Winds & Safe Harbor to You 😎
It would be interesting to see failure break comparison of these and what they replace. The rope to steel cable comparison shows dyema much better but this I’m not aware of a test
Smooth smoothy smoothness.
Great video. Super easy to do. Very helpful
Glad you found it helpful!
Why is this unlisted? It is such a good tutorial!
We just haven’t published it yet, but I wanted to make it available to those who need the information now. It’s searchable on Google and through my website, as well as in the playlists on our channel.
We have a lot of these technical videos that are still unlisted, so be sure to check through them for further information!
Brilliant! Thanks so much for the detailed vid mate!
Glad you liked it!
AND a great shout out to Sailing ZINGARO (and he mentioned you as his mentor for his standing rigging) .... he showed us the same technique in his standing rigging replacement episode on its late ZINGARO Cat, which by the way was save by Dyneema too .... Thank you for showing us how to create this step in a complete synthetic standing rigging.
Excellent presentation of your very good idea. Thankyou.
Glad it was helpful!
You’re my personal saviour man. I’m so goi go to re rig with synthetic.... just as soon as I get back from the jester Azores challenge this year 😂😂
I met a guy in Terceira that sailed there on a Jesters Challenge years ago. The island is so beautiful that he stayed there. Be careful with the islands charm 😉 we found it really hard to sail away ourselves but after 10 months we realized it was time to keep sailing ⛵️
@@RiggingDoctor the toughest part is often leaving eh 👍
now I must make my life goal becoming a wizard who can braid 12 strand rope. Just to prove its possible.
Nice video. If you mark the 12 strands in different colors and while unravelling you can figure out the paterns. Then you can use a disc similar to Kummihimo Bradiding wheel and rebraid it to a more natural hallow braid. You just have to practice with the weights in the center till you fine tune the braiding to the natural state from the factory.
That’s the goal, just haven’t taken the time to practice it, but that would be ideal!
I fucking did it. Thanks for directions on how to do these splices. You guys rock
Congrats!! It’s a tricky one 😉
@@RiggingDoctor yeah it is. Umm is it possible to do a double braid locking brummel splice. I haven’t been able to find anything. I’m thinking no but I don’t know for sure. I know I could pull the core do the brummel splice and bury the out core. But however if it’s done that way will it have the same strength as being pulled by both braids or does the inner core always carry the load anyway.
Nice work! great thinking
Excellent loop. I'll try it out.
👍
Listening to this background music makes me feel like I'm in the Mii universe :o)
😎
That’s a fascinating way to do it. Clearly going to be strong enough even with the bastardized braid in one side of the locked Brummell. Ever used the soft fids from DSplicer? They’ve been a game changer for both double braid and Dyneema splicing. Would love for you to send one of those to the guys at HowNot2Highline for a break strength test. Thanks for sharing.
I’ve seen their stuff and it’s really informative!
I haven’t used the D splicer because it’s rather expensive for what it is. I have a piece of folded wire that works well enough on small strands but not as good as the real thing!
Check out their “soft fids”. They are brilliant
Herbie please give me some advice. I have a 1972 Irwin 37 Ketch rig. She has 1/4 cable on the main & 1/8 on the Mizzen. All the standing rigging is trash.
I sat here & worked my fingers to the bone to make this ring out of 1/4’ Dyneena. So my thought is to go up to 5/16’ for my deadeyes & stays. Make the stays shorter in order to conserve money as the 5/16 costs a good bit more. Then make the section of wraps from the stay to the deadeye at around 3-4’. Is this acceptable? Any advice you could give me would be Greatly appreciated.
Thanks again..Great video instruction!
Good thinking but the braiding could be smarter. A 6 strand round braid with double strands is not too difficult and gives you a nice, round shape.
The braiding does leave room for improvement!
@@RiggingDoctor th-cam.com/video/y3wfHgNtTYI/w-d-xo.html
This video did not show up on my subscription feed, only saw it now on my side bar feed.
Thanks for letting me know!
Wow, my hat is off to you. I can follow this in my mind all the way but to come up with this, that's something else.
I nearly choked when you said just unravel this end and rebraid it. But this looks merely tricky not impossible. Will try it just for the joy of knowing I can do it.
Btw, how many tries did it take to perfect this?
Two. The idea came to me of unbraiding and rebraiding the line in a dream. I woke up and gave it a try!
The first one I did just down to the bottom and when I set the splice, it was too short. The second time I wrapped the bury 3/4 of the way around so when the splice was pulled back out, they still overlapped a little.
The first two tries are the ones I now use as fair leads when I tension the lashings.
Thanks for watching, figuring it out was like a Rubik’s Cube on steroids!
@@RiggingDoctor have you pull tested this method?
Amazing instruction. I wonder who Mobius Brummel was?
Definitely a genius!
How did you calculate the shorter tail length, compared to the 72x the diameter? 😁
Edit: We just rewatched it and caught it!
Great video, thank you for posting about your process!!
very cool man!
EXCELLENT! THANKS! Ciao
No need to unbraid the line. I have made many of these out of 1 inch and 1 1/8 inch dyneema and used them extensively, some to the point of failure. Never once did my splice ever try to pull out. We call these doughnuts in my industry. I can tell you from experience it takes a hell of a lot of force to break on of these.
Great to know! It’s been holding my mast up for 8 years and 18,000 miles. Good to know it’s got a lot of strength to them!
Outstanding
Thank you
Man Herb is smart.
🤓
All those soft slings/sausage slings/ round slings,you know how they are finished,they tie an overhand knot.What you see on the outside is nothing like what’s going on in the inside.I have tested tons of these on a test bed,bits hanging out all over the place,just held together by friction.They are just ONE piece of polyester wound round and round 😂😂😂😂😂
Hey great videos. Just curious why don't the lashings go straight to the chain plate. What's the purpose of the deadeye "middle man"
The chainplate has a tiny and sharp hole. This just gives the lashings something smoother and bigger to bend around and keep the material happy.
If you have very large and rounded chainplates, you could skip the middleman!
What is the benefit of doing this over making a loop with 3 to 4 wraps of 1/8th inch dyneema inside a cover?
Inspectability. When the Dyneema is inside a cover, you can’t see if it is having issues. This method allows you to look at the line that is under load and under stress to evaluate how it is doing with a quick glance.
The multiple wraps in a cover method is nice because it lets you use a smaller and cheaper line to make the loop where this uses a thicker and more expensive line.
On another note, the multiple wrap method can have some issues if binding occurs where one of the strands takes more load than the others and then breaks prematurely. This method makes sure that all the load is evenly set on a line that can take the load.
I say let me send you money, you send me the deadeyes
Sure thing! My email is RiggingDr@gmail.com
Send me an email so we can figure out what size you need for your application.
I vaguely remember a way to invert the loop through the splice, so you don't have to re-brade like you did. Do you know what that method is called? I'm having troubles finding it again. It's been a few years since I had to do it....
Thanks.
When doing an eye splice: th-cam.com/video/UpkqJ4GRfSg/w-d-xo.html
On that video, there is a link to a blog post I wrote which has step by step pictures as well if that is more helpful for you.
blimey amazzzing
Thanks!
Excellent, just a bit 'fiddly' for the beginner!
This was a tricky thing to come up with but it serves its purpose!
I've tried this with 3/8" line. So I bought 3/8" heavy duty thimbles - but they seem too small since the 3/8" line now has a couple loops inside the weave, making its diameter larger. Curious what size thimbles you used for your line.
For the chainplate side, I use the size that fits in the toggle that attaches it to the chainplate. It’s on the smaller side but as the deadeye gets loaded it thins out and fits the small thimble. On the stay side, I use up to a 3/4” just to give more space to fit the lashings.
I also use 3/8” line for my deadeyes.
@@RiggingDoctor I guess I better figure out which toggle (to chainplate) I'm going to use before I set the thimble. And maybe upsize my 3/8" thimble on the shroud side to maybe at least a half inch. This is for about a 37' mast on a catamaran.
What's your thaught concerning synthetic chainplates? Can they be made from the same material as dynema ( ony in a solid plastic cutting board type form ) and would it be cost effective?
I’ve used the board material for backing plates for winches, clutches, and chainplates. Polyethylene works great under compression but will tend to distort over time. Under tension it will creep, which would be the situation as a chainplate.
My favorite chainplate material is still bronze. Si-bronze for normal chainplates or Mn-bronze for high strain chainplates.
Am I correct to guess that the strength of this loop is 400% of rope strength?
Since you have at least one “rope” buried inside another, so x2 and it’s a loop, so x2 again, therefore, 400%.
In theory, but the bury isn’t as long as it should be and the turns of the splice weaken it slightly. I plan on it being at least as strong as the stay itself, but it’s not the expected point of failure in the rigging.
Where do you get your tools
Right here: amzn.to/49mWIOP
Is there a reason the line can’t be passed thru the body again? Samson indicates line over 1/2” be double lock.
Your method surely will not slip.
It just gets tight and hard to work with. Double locking would make it very secure though!
Great information - what's was the idea for the irritating muzac though? Really disturbing.
Why use a thimble on the end of the deadeye that attaches to the shroud?
Just to give it a fair and large radiused turn at the end. Without the thimble it would be a sharp turn that would weaken the stay.
At 5:22 couldn’t you just splice the tag ends one more time and it’d lock?
There has got to be a better way than that. My suggestion is to Sid from the outside to the inside of the Luke and then thread the inside line through itself and then pull the loop through it after pulling the loop spot then thread both ends into the core of the loop. In addition I would paper the Flies sock them and then thread the socks beside each other so as that the dynamic actually rotates around itself three times ensuring the greatest strengths as well as a near perfectly symmetrical rope all the way around. However quite frankly replating a cord is not that hard if you're using a turtshead guide and weights at the end of every line and thinning the brade is a simple matter of cutting out a strand where you need to as you go replating it. Basically I'm saying don't look for a shortcut learn how to do it the right way and you will not have any failures. Beyond that when somebody is inspecting your rigging you don't want them to know where you started and where you ended because it is a planted Mobius Loop with an invisible double core. Everything else is failure waiting to have. Start with five and a quarter times the amount of rope that you're going to need find the center of the Rope and mark off 1/2 of the length of the final link that you want on either side from the center. Manage each cord by wrapping it around lead line and then wrapping the lead line around that cord has a cinch to keep it from unwinding. Now start planting your line over the top of your ring halfway so is that they come together where you will have your lines cross each other and then fit all the way through to the other side Mark each line as to where you want to have it cut cut it and fit it at that point unless it is a shortcut at which point in time Market fit it send the feed back into the center and passed pull the line all the way through headed at that point and then stretch the line back to the core do not worry about plating because you're only attempting to get that line back to the core of the loop continue this process sending all of the lines back to the core of the loop until you have sent each side all the way around and you have ran out of cords to feed back into the core. Now all of the lines are buried in the core and the entire Loop is as strong as it can possibly be and nobody knows where you started or where you finished as your entire Loop is exactly the same diameter and density all the way around not to mention all of your tips are buried in the core. For maximum strength you can inject latex into the core of the loop to help hold the tips from slipping as a milkweed latex and a little bit of urine will ensure that you have a beautiful latex at which point in time you lay your rings out in the sun on aluminum foil and bake them creating a rubber core rosin that will be three socks and uv-guarded. If anybody knows how to make a stronger Mobius Loop than that they are one damn fine genius.
That sounds pretty impressive! I will have to sit down and give this a try. The ones I made in 2015 are still going strong, but just because something works doesn’t mean that it’s perfected 😉
@@RiggingDoctor because often times you're only capable of using one end of the Rope to create the knot it is best if you can figure out how to do it using just one side and by creating a problem at the end of the line in order to correct it in the middle you can create a sliding locking bind and by simply passing the end through after correcting you will be able to make an even stronger double locking which will allow you to create a soft binder I use them frequently when I'm pulling Jeeps out of the mud or gathering logs in the river. And though it does require a 20 power magnifying glass I also make soft binders on the end of my braided fishing line so I don't have that brass swivel clamp making a big splash in front of my lure as well as so that I can change between floating line and sinking line on my fly reel without having to run my entire floating line or Sinking line through the loop in my filler line because putting a soft opening binder between the braided filler line and the fly line it sounds a little crazy but it's guaranteed to go through the eyes like a carrot not and yet unlike a carrot knot you never have to cut your line to change from a floating line to a sinking line I started using it on my fishing line because the bowl not at the end of the soft binder is a double fishing knot and it was the perfect way to set up for a day of fishing for shark or barracuda because you're always replacing shark later why just why not just make it easy and snail the hooks directly to the leader leaving a loop at the back end that you can put a soft binder on and boom everybody else's fighting to tie two lines together so that they can get themselves back in the water and I just switch out hooks because they're pretty snails the night before and I don't have to bring my pliers just to get another hook in the water. In addition soft binders make a very effective soft carabiner fully capable of pulling the pin right out of the Rock if you're a climber because under tension they naturally sit down over the double fisherman's knot and refuse to come loose until you relax the tension and pull on both the double fisherman's not and the appropriate side of the double-aired soft binder and when they're made out of the Kevlar sleeve you can actually risk your life on them because the only way they're coming loose is if you take them loose you'll burn up your climbing rope before you break the binder and unlike carabiners if you lose one it's only going to cost you a little bit of rope and a little bit of time to create you can do that while you're hanging no need to go climb down the mountain and go back to the store.
@@barretharms655 dude you are batshit. Well constructed ramblings though...
Really, you invented the deadeye splice?
Yes, back in 2014 I invented this splice to make a deadeye and a new knot which allowed you to tie off the lashings of the shrouds, which enabled you to tension synthetic standing rigging on larger boats.
I’m not as flashy as some of the other TH-cam channels that have made videos about “how to do synthetic rigging” but I am the one who invented the process.
Why not just make a double ended section with brummel splices around thimbles on each?
Like a rope strop? That would work, but the result would be really long. By doing it this way you end up with a much shorter unit.
The grommet made out of 9mm Dyneema is about 10 to 12 inches long while a strop needs enough bury length making the center section a minimum of 51 inches long.
Basically, it’s just to make them shorter.
@@RiggingDoctor that makes sense. I didn't consider the bury length
That was the original problem with the headstay as the first hank needs to be close to the deck. That’s why I had to come up with a shorter system, the grommet solved the riddle!
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Thanks!
Another style of dyneema loop using multiple passes of smaller line inside a dyneema sheath: th-cam.com/video/VFN7HPoMwlk/w-d-xo.html
That was a very informative video!
12 strand braid is not that deferent from how you braided the 4 stand. Start with the outside strands and work your way in. Look up how to braid a 550 cord bullwhip and will see if pretty easy. I've made one before and once you learn the groove it is fast and easy.
Nice. But please get rid of the background sounds, trying to think here!!!😆😎
I have just upgraded the recording equipment so all future videos will be much better quality :)
@@RiggingDoctor Nice! No music either as tutorials are great for learning but the music is distracting. I like your teaching style.
Thanks!
4 feet, 9mm, americans please just pick a lane....
Haha! It’s sold by the foot but only comes in metric diameters 🤪
We'll get there eventually, it's a slow transition..... :-)
Love your vids but stop wasting time and creatimg confusion by showimg what not to do.
Sorry about the confusion. My intention was to show you how to do it and common missteps so that if you were doing a misstep, you could recognize it and correct it promptly.
I appreciated seeing what is NOT correct. It was absolutely appropriate exactly in that case in the video.
Overly complex and confusing. "This one" and "That one" over on this side and that one over there. The line is the same color and you're flipping it over and back and forth. Why not try labeling the parts of the line as A and B or something so people can at least try and follow the explanation. Better tutorials are out there
Sorry for the confusion. I invented this system and am trying to present it in a way that others can learn and copy to use on their own boats. I will try again with a new version of the video.
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