INSTALLING 580W OF MISMATCHED SOLAR PANELS ON OUR TRANSIT
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ค. 2022
- We covered every square inch of our transit camper van roof with solar panels, but to do so... we had to use mismatched sizes of panels and this video will show you how we installed them and the math behind how it works.
➤Full Solar Array Charging Kit (Including Panels): shop.explorist.life/shop/all-...
➤The Roof Rack: unakagearco.com/collections/f...
This is part 4/4 of our roof install. Here are the other episodes:
➤1/4: Nomadic AC Install: • Installing a 12V/24V D...
➤2/4: Maxxair Fan Install: • INSTALLING A MAXXAIR M...
➤3/4: Unaka Roof Rack Install: • DESIGNING & BUILDING A...
More in depth video of how wiring mismatched solar panels works: • How to Wire Different ...
These panels are installed on this roof rack: • DESIGNING & BUILDING A...
Other Important Videos:
Installing the Air Conditioner you see in this video: • Installing a 12V/24V D...
Installing the Maxxair Fan you see in this video: • INSTALLING A MAXXAIR M...
➤Shop the EXPLORIST.life Store: shop.explorist.life
➤Shop Battle Born Batteries: battlebornbatteries.com?afmc=explorist_bb67
➤Binge the Transit Van Build: • The Ultimate Camper Va...
Here are some additional resources that you may find helpful with planning and installing your DIY Camper:
➤DIY Sprinter Camper Van Electrical Install - Full Tutorial: • DIY Sprinter Camper Va...
➤DIY Camper Solar Wiring Diagrams: www.explorist.life/solarwirin...
➤How to Perform a Power Audit: • How Much Solar Power D...
➤Basic Parts & Components of an Electrical System: • Basic Solar Parts Need...
➤How to Cut Wire: www.explorist.life/how-to-cut...
➤How to Strip Wire: • How to Strip Wire from...
➤How to Crimp Wire: • How To Crimp Wire Lugs...
➤How to Make MC4 Connectors: • How To Make MC4 Connec...
➤How to Wire Solar Panels in Series-Parallel: • How to Wire Solar Pane...
➤How to Crimp Wire Ferrules: • How to Crimp Ferrules ...
➤How to Wire an AC/DC Breaker/Fuse Box: www.explorist.life/how-to-wir... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
If you add a second controller, you can push the calculated efficiency from 90.7% to 99.17%
Leave the bigger array panel connected in series to one controller 40.8V*9.8A = 399.8W
The other two arrays connected in parallel to other controller 35.8V*4.92A = 176.1W
Total of power calculated: 575.9W. Total power available: 580.7W (99.17 %)
Thanks for yours videos.
It's kind of irrelevant. It's a bad setup. The 70w of the smallest panels are loosing you 60w off the largest panels. And loosing on the mid size panels as well. You would be better off without them. Not to mention both sets of smaller panels will suffer from shadowing problems 95% of the time due to the aircon and skylight further draging down the voltage.
Real World Update: The other day we got 605W from this 580W array. I'd say it's a pretty good setup, brett.
@@BrettDalton %100 percent thinking the same way. In real World Update : At some point with a good cold weather and for limited time they can produce higher then calculated but in hot times they will reduce production in my opinion. Also my concern is, you need take care of panels very carefully. When small panels get a little dirt, leaf or shadow production will affected to much.
@EXPLORISTlife Calculations for panels must be made total harwested Watt/hour in a day, not for the peak production. It is important how much energy you are loosing in the morning and evening. =) And how much this affects your total production in Watt/Hour.
But still you have the chance to put a second charge controller in the future. In doesnt need to much extra wiring and man hours.
How about this... If you want to put all three sets of panels on their own charge controllers in your own setup, I'm more than happy to sell you all of the parts you need to accomplish that. That's better for our revenue numbers anyway.
@@EXPLORISTlife Hehehe... Good Humor and Marketing... =) Solar Charger for that small panels cost only 100 $ , If you use 2 extra charge controller you will save using 3 Fuses and save 45 $ s. And total cost will be 155 $ + Cable =) Also you will make it more simple and a little bit redundant and more shade proof, eliminate 3 connection points for future point of failure. This is how i look to the subject. =)
Only just stumbled across this channel. You give the perfect level or technical explanation in a super easy to follow format. Best I’ve seen and I’ve seen lots. Well done.
Hey, Mike Wasowski! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Chef's kiss 🧑🏻🍳What a beautiful array. Thank you for making these videos and putting together your site/store.
That's fantastic you used the maximised space your van can handle well done.
I only have a 455 solar panel I could not get a ything higher. Had no space left.
*Check out the full electrical installation tutorial for this build:* th-cam.com/video/E5q7_4FH4LQ/w-d-xo.html
➤ *Last Weeks Roof Rack Install Video:* th-cam.com/video/y1iI-wjm_D8/w-d-xo.html
➤ *200W Panels:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/solar-panels/rich-solar-200w-12v-solar-panel/
➤ *55W Panels:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/solar-panels/pre-order-rich-solar-55w-12v-solar-panel/
➤ *35W Panels:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/solar-panels/pre-order-rich-solar-35w-12v-solar-panel/
➤ *Full Solar Array Wiring Kit (and diagram):* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/580w-solar-charging-wiring-kit-24v-battery-bank/
➤ *Roof Rack:* unakagearco.com/collections/ford-transit/products/explorist-life-transit-roof-rack/?dt_id=105323
Nate and Stephanie, you guys are the bomb!! Creative, daring, and generous with your knowledge and experience. We met at Open Roads a couple weeks ago and I'll say it again, "thank you" for what you give to the DIY van community. (That was such a fun van fest!) Our next phase of the build is our electrical system and we are depending heavily on your plans, kits, information, and tutorials. The niche you've found in van building, I've sure, has helped many people. I'm love following your current build. Cheers!!
Hi Brandi, it was so great meeting you at Open Roads! We had a really great time. Thanks so much for your feedback and thanks for watching our videos :) Cheers!
As always a clearly explained and documented project! Super helpful! Thanks for posting!
Hey imxploring, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
Great 👍 Job. Thanks for your details of the explanation and rationale . Cause many of the TH-camrs just don't deliver the same quality
Glad it was helpful!
A piece of art. Congratulations on that solar array!
Hey Silvano Cometta, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Hey guys I've been really enjoying this channel its giving me a lot of inspiration and ideas. The technical detauls and format of the videos are 10/10. One thing I would love to see in a future build is a more budget friendly build that focuses as much as possible on off the shelf components. As well as, using the least amount of tools as possible as myself I dont have a nice fully equipped garage like you guys. Love the content keep it up !!
Awesome! Glad it helps! I've found that a build consisting of...
1: Off the shelf parts
2: Budget Friendly
...doesn't exist. You have to pick the direction. It's like DIY walls vs Adventure Wagon walls video we did. You can save 60% on an L-Track based wall system; but it's also going to take 5 weeks and a workshop full of tools.
Beautiful design, expertly installed...thanks!
These videos are amazing, such a great guide for those building.
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Wow, what an array!! Great job!
Thanks! 🙂🙌
That's one very attractive roof. Months of hard work paid off.
Hey, Charles H! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Hey Nate, You guys are doing a great service to all of us builders. I purchased all my wiring for my electrical from you guys except for the solar array. I just purchased three 110W and Two 50W from Newpowa (they fit the space I have) and looks like I can get 96% efficiency with a fully parrallel configuration. The issue I am having is how to figure out the MPPT controller size for my mismatched panels. It appears your calculator assumes the panels are all the same size and V and A values. I just watched your Transit build where you used three different panels and was hoping you would go through how you determined the MPPT value. Is there a video for that and i just missed it? Looking forward to figuring this out and ordering my Array kit from you soon. Hope to here from you soon.
Tim
Thanks for putting this together, great video!
Hey Maurice De Vidts, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
that's a really nice looking roof rack/mount job you guys...
Hey Lyle Stavast, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Great video series. Cant wait for the next one!
Awesome! Thanks for watching.
Splendid setup.
Bloody awesome vid mate, well done. Love your content
This is what i was curious and looking for lol cuz I want as much power as possible from solar but also covering the roof of the van with as much solar panels as possible c: to support a PC in a van LOL
I have been subscribed for well over a year now . Awesome content. I have learned so much watching....I am constantly referring back to your videos when working on projects. Question...do you need to ground solar panels? Or does the Solar Charge Controller act as a ground for the panels as well? Keep up the excellent content.
Your videos are really clear and helpful! Much appreciated!
Have a question:
With FVC roof rack and maybe not the ideal locations of the fan and Dometic A/C, I’m considering two 175W panels and two 100W panels to charge a Victron 400ah 12V setup. Based on your advice, it sounds like I’d pair the matching wattage. 175W’s are in the center, but 100W’s are front/back.
1. Would the distance make a difference?
2. Would I need a separate controller if I wanted to switch which pair is used? For example, if I had a cargo box or a canoe covering parts of the bigger panels, which could harm the panels?
Looking forward to seeing more installation videos!
Hi you two! Thank you so much for this amazing help, it is so so so greatly appreciated. Quesiton: We have 7, Renogy 100-watt solar panels (700 watts total). Which of your solar wiring kit(s) do you recommend we purchase to set them up on our transit? Thank you!
I think this is a great idea 💡 Thanks it gives me some thoughts for my RV roof.👍👍👍
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Look Great, well done see u next week Take care guys
Hey, NSW. Mods! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Great stuff. Keep it coming!
Thanks, will do!
Gidday Nate and Steph, super informative, and the simple diagrams made it easyish to comprehend. But my brain doesn’t compute electricity and electronics well, and I’m colourblind so I don’t play around with electricity a lot anyway, but I’d like a basic understanding, so this will be victory for both of us if I’ve got this right. I could safely connect this array to my Victron MPPT 75/15 controller to charge 12v battery/s? How did I do?😬
What a quality job....excellent work thx
Hey Deek Johnson, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Super tidy a really cool getting maximum efficiency.
For you two is perfect that’s why you designed and made it, just for my thoughts losing the roof area for storage or surf board or something is a bummer.
Not complaining about yours is mega though such a smart setup, nice one go steady
Thanks! Yeah, in our last van we actually omitted some solar to fit a rooftop storage box, but actually never even installed one as we found we were able to fit everything we needed (skis, bikes, paddleboards, etc) inside of the 'garage' area of the van; so the 'blank' space was pretty wasted; so we opted for full coverage this time around.
@@EXPLORISTlife good going, brilliantly sorted then 😎, I do worry with stuff on the roof a bit especially my long board would cry a lot if that got stolen, as we live in the UK 🇬🇧 does happen a few bit unfortunately.
Lived a few years in MA and boxes and stuff seemed to be less of a worry, any way thanks for the tips and videos.
Very cool, especially the array wiring! There are always compromises on the path to an overall optimal solution. And, math is your friend.
Very true! Thanks for watching!
Did you consider installing any panels on the engine hood? I've seen another van conversion with this and one reason I can think of doing it is if you want to transport a long item (eg canoe) on the roof which would block the sun. At least the hood would always be obstruction free. Of course the angle would be off axis, but parking it into sun would solve this.
Panel perfection 🔥
I've been working for awhile on a roof rack/solar design for my upcoming Transit conversion. Always nice to learn from someone with a lot more experience, thanks for the simple yet effective design.
As for the power efficiency, since the higher voltage panels can't operate at max voltage, the max current they produce is also lowered, so your array may have lower power than you calculated, could be negligible but I will probably have the two 200w panels on a separate charge controller.
I agree 100%.
Nice video. You are a guru. Excuse me if I just have a chuckle at one thing though. As someone living on a sailboat on the equator I have to laugh at someone's decision to produce a black air conditioner. I guess it's a styling decision? Anyway on with the video... and sorry to pick holes, your vids are very inspiring!! I love the beautiful arrangement of all those little panels.
I agree that a purple air conditioner would be much better, but alas, we will have to suffer through with a black one.
@@EXPLORISTlifeI was getting at the heat absorption issue. We repainted our boat. It was dark blue, now it's very light cream. The difference was amazing although it's still bloody 30 degrees C inside most of the time. Hopefully you aren't dealing with heat like that where you are going in that van. Congratulations again on very informative videos. It's inspiring me to tackle our Lithium conversion soon. I also like how you constantly stress safety. People can get into a lot of trouble with wires carrying 100 amps. Cheers
Another great video. Could you please confirm if it would be possible to do this same layout on a ford transit 148 extended and add a 3rd 200W panel behind the AC unit and skip the 4 smaller panels? Thanks so much!
Hi love your video just a couple of questions I've installed panals on my barge and be told I've got to fuse them for the boat safety test I have four 250 watt... 21 open circuit 8.9 amps
So do I put 20/30 amp fuses
Also some people are saying I can use diodes????
Great video, thanks! But, forget the solar stuff, what is the brand/name of the creeper seat you're using?🤔
IDK if someone else already commented on the roof rack video, so sorry if they did. If you did not already, you should put some of that clear vinal paint protector film anywhere the rack is touching the roof panels or very close to touching. It will give your paint an added layer of protection, is easily removed with a heat gun, and can be replaced as needed. The rack will move and wear the clear coat off the paint causing delamination in the long run.
The roof rack mounting feet we used has a thin (1/16" or so) piece of plastic on the bottom to give a bit of added protection like you are mentioning; so there is not need for additional protection above and beyond.
I might have missed it in the video but which Victron Solar charge controller are you using for this array? Seeing as it is 35.8v and 14.72A will a 100/30 work for this? I always see it said a 30amp controller is good for up to 400watts of panels but it looks like one could be used for this.
11:42 New to the solar game and have a question. Without the 2x35 (70) panels, you’d have 510 watts of solar but because of the parallel voltage limitations, you only netted 17 additional watts from those additional 2x35 (70). Was it for aesthetics or will those 17 watts supply you any appreciable use?
Ive got an anker c1000 and a 200w flexible solar panel to glue to my rooftop tent. The goal is to keep the ankerc1000 power station inside the trunk. I recently discovered you could get more and stable wattage charigng the battery pack via car battery inverter to dc and currently struggling to wire the newly bought solar cable into the hood and back out to the trunk...
Will i be better off with a battery inverter? Is it taxing on your car battery?
Question:
I have room for 3 x 215W or 2 x 215W and one 305W. Obviouslythe second option is more watt but missmatched wattage, voltage and Amps. What is the right way to think and connect in order to get the most charging effect as possible?
The 215W works with 24V and 6A and the 305W have 20V and 10A.
G'day.. This is a great video for miss marched solar panels and the same applies for the every growing HYBRID camper trailers here in Australian..
I bought the lynx distributor after watching your videos. Can you advise if it's a good idea to run the solar POS wire from solar controller straight to battery positive to constantly Barger the batteries even when at home in storage.? My thinking is by running it through lynx Dist and having a battery disconnect switch solar would be isolated ,I'm thinking as the solar has its own disconnect switch to you can disconnect that if you want to shut down every thing. This would save a spot in the lynx distribution for other things and also leaving the neg wire connected to the shunt.
Is this a safe and viable solution to seperate solar disconnect? Keep up the great work. Your channel over any other has reached me alot. Thank you.
p A r A llel .. Amps Add / 2 A's... ... s E ri E s ... volts add... (E is a letter used for voltage in some equations)... a way to keep them in mind... and, you don't even have to remember both ! just get the pArAllel one stuck in your mind and you'll know the other one is the opposite.
Will Rich solar make custom sizes for anyone and how much up charge do you think it would be
👍👌❤️🇨🇦, i use two different controllers myself, I have 8 x 405 watt panels, 2 side byside and another 2 behind those, with 4 pullouts from under each of those panels, the 4 pullouts are wired in series and use one controller, the 4 stationary are in series and use the second controller, 3240 watts and 8 x 100 ah Power Queen smart LiFePO4 batteties,
Nice! Sounds like an awesome project!
Looking Great :)
Hey Christos Maninos, Thanks so much! Cheers!
What’s better more amps in voltage of 12 or more watts with what ever voltages
Can you clarify that a 35w17.9v 1.96a solar panel can pull the voltage down from a 20.4v 9.8a 200w. so basically if I connect a 9v pp3 battery to a 12v battery the output voltage will be 9v and not 12v?
Love your channel. I am using this for my new Tranisit Trail build. I was wondering if it is possible to swap the 200W and 2 50W.max air fan on the rack. my concern is the the max air fan is a bit close to the air conditioning unit
You may just have to play around with it a bit in sketchup or similar in regards to transit support ribs if you want to change up the plan.
Thanks for the video. I'm considering doing a very similar mis-matched panel setup on my Transit. I've been playing with panel calculators, and it seems to me that you could get almost 100% efficiency if you wired the four smaller panels in parallel, and then combined that in series to the two larger panels (also in series) for a total of 575w, 58.7v, 9.8a. I could be totally wrong since this is all new to me, but it appears to work?
btw Nate, I know you're happy with your current setup, so this isn't advice. I'm thinking I'd like to wire my next version rack/panels up this way: 2*200w + 2*50w + 1*100w. Only one maxxfan in the middle to create shade.
Hi Nat, excellent video again, What adhesive did you use to stick down the through roof Cable Entry Glands.I see you used the Decor Lap Sealant overtop of the edges. Thanks in advance?
A combo of butyl tape & quick set epoxy works pretty awesomely.
Excellent thanks. I believe on your roof fan you used 3M Wind-weld and Butyl tape.@@EXPLORISTlife
Yeah, there are probably 1,000 different products that will work just fine for that.
I understand the (2) 200w panels in series, but it seems like one of each of the smaller 50w and 35w might be better in parallel with dedicated charge controllers? It seems like one side of the smaller panels would often be shaded by the ac or max fan? But you clarified your decision one controller and fewer wires going through the roof.
The array voltage of a 35w and 55W connected in parallel would be too low for our charge controller to operate when connected to a 24V battery bank like we are using.
Great video, looking forward to the rest of your build. I have two rich solar 24v 200w panels and a 100/50 victron smart solar mppt left over from another project, can i use the 24v panel and victron 100/50 mppt to charge a 12v battery bank by simply programming the controller to the lithium profile for the 12v battery bank i have?
Yes, thats what the mppt is for. In the case of the victron its auto sensing based on the voltage of the battery you attach. It then regulates the charge from the panels down to the appropriate Voltage for your battery.
@@curtisdinman thank you thats what I thought, just like to double check, I appreciate the response.
Thank you guys so much for all your video content. Super helpful! You guys are awesome! I have a trailer. I am ripping the electrical out from the breaker box to the shore power. So far, I have 4 battle born batteries and a victron quatro inverter. If you could buy the absolute best solar panels for this system, which ones would you buy?
Any of these. Ideally 800W and up: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/
very cool, I should have done this
Hey Preston Havill, Thanks so much! Cheers!
How is the reception on your Shark Fin antenna when using the FordPass app? It appears the shark fin is covered by the solar panels and roof rack. Very clean install!
So far, so good on the reception!
Any advice on managing traversing/cleaning an array like this when you’re approaching 100% coverage? A rear or traditional side ladder would still force you to use a spray and pray approach.
Telescoping ladder like this: amzn.to/3QgJNn5 propped up against the side of the roof rack is the way to go here. After seeing all of the downfalls of a permanently affixed ladder on our last sprinter we lived in for four years, I don't forsee adding a side/rear ladder ever again.
10:15 but the skit for the ford transit on your site is for 200W 12 volt solar panels not the 20.4 volts mentioned. I'm not sure why? PRobably because the maximum voltage is 20.4 and that's how you should rate the fuses
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing so much information! Got a question:
Which manufacturer specification do you use to design the systems? For voltage 'Voc' or 'Vmp'? and for amps 'Imp' or 'Isc' ?
Keep it up!
Thanks!
The 'mp' numbers are the 'Maximum power' numbers; which will give you the output when the panel is actually producing power.
The Voc is the important one to look at when figuring out how big of a charge controller we need as it will be the max voltage we see right before the panels start making power and the voltage drops.
Thanks for the tips@@EXPLORISTlife .
Since I'm currently trying to maximize the efficiency of the solar panels array by searching for panels with similar specs (not to dimension the charge controller) I'm guessing I should look at the 'mp' specs then.
I think if/when I do something similar I'd just pop the rear half of the roof rails up 8 or 9 inches and put a third 200w panel over the vent and front of the AC. with just a couple modified brackets you'd be left with only 3 matched PV's instead of 6 mismatched panels, ~73 more watts, the vent and part of the AC would always be in shade, and could build a couple boxes up top to take advantage of the freed up space. With enough finagling I think it would only add about 1 inch overall since the vent could open into the hollow cavity under the panel. Might be a little tricky to mount an awning though.
That's 'somewhat' how we had it on our old van and the panels really are way up in the air to clear the open maxxair fan. It's 'fine', but not the form factor we were going for this time around and really made the van undriveable during cross-winds.
@@EXPLORISTlife Hmmm... (digging into the back catalog) I see. Weird, I wouldn't think putting the panels on top of an open frame rack like that would make a huge impact on cross-wind behavior, especially when you're already driving a billboard. I wonder if the differences in handling could have anything to do with the MB vs. Ford switch as well as the lower rack height. It also looks like you used to have quite a bit more weight in front of and behind the front and rear axles (respectively) that could've jacked up the moment of inertia. kind of like loading a trailer too far to the rear, just a little nudge and you have to fight keep under control. I'll have to keep all of that in mind.
Love the setup .. i will be building our van later this year, would love to install same setup. Can you share plans? thank you so much
Of course! All of the information can be found in the pinned comment at the top of the comments section right below where you typed your comment initially.
@@EXPLORISTlife thank you so much ..i will be ordering all my parts from your store!! and might reach out with more questions..again, thank you!
I’m sure it has been covered somewhere at some point but wanted to ask if you can have both rigid and flexible panels in the solar configuration of the build?
The charge controller doesn't know or care if it's connected to a rigid or flexible panel. All it knows is what voltage, wattage, and amperage the power is being delivered at.
Sprinter variant?? 🙂
Hey nice project dude! I had a similar project for my car, but had conflicting advice from unfortunately ultra newbish manufacturers(somehow🤦)They even sent wrong panels omg. We designed a layout with multiple sized panels, but another manu. said it would greatly reduce power output. Please confirm if you can, thanks. Your vid was very impressive with 91% of max potential output w/mismatch panels wow!
Explaining HOW mismatched solar panels work is fairly complicated and is not something that most manufacturers are going to spend the time explaining (if they even know how it actually works). I made a video a while back, though, talking through how it works so that there is a resource available for all of you who want to try your hand at advanced solar array design: th-cam.com/video/jejro4zkl8I/w-d-xo.html
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks man! My next project will be using individual cells like the aptera solar car to avoid the mismatch issue and optimize output, but we'll see! Would love to see a vid like that!🔥Have an awesome weekend brother! 🤘😎
Nice! I know that the University of California Riverside was using some of our videos to help make their solar car. Pretty cool stuff!
What about if we have a factory installed maxair fan? Id like to do the same setup maximizing solar with AC and a fan up top (and starlink).
You'll just have to take a few extra measurements and map out your roof to see what you can do. Some time with a tape measure will be your friend here.
Where I only have one 200 W panels and one 130 White panel. If I wired them how well would that work or do I have to have a minimum of two in order to achieve necessary benefit? Thank you
This video shows you what happens when you wire mismatched solar panels into the same array and how to figure out what works best for your setup: th-cam.com/video/zspCRKAFxKA/w-d-xo.html
looks good, would be great if mfg can make same Voltage panels
We got as close as possible.
Nice. I have a Ford Transit 250 MR 148" with a MaxxAir fan in the front and a MaxxAir passive vent in the rear. That combo, along with our awning bunk windows, gets a lot of air moving,. I have a roof deck on top and one 200w solar panel in front of the fan. I know the 55w panels are not available yet, but what are the dimensions of those panels? I might be add two of the on either side of the fan like you did, but we really do not depend on solar and just take trips - long and short - and come back home. No "van life" for us! : ) Thanks.
Nice! Yeah, the 55W panels would add quite a bit of power to your roof on either side of each maxxair fan. With a single 200w panel, though, you'd probably want to put the 55w panels on their own charge controller and leave the 200w on it's own charge controller as well. Steph put the panel dimensions on the product page down under 'product specifications': shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/solar-panels/pre-order-rich-solar-55w-12v-solar-panel/
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks! I run my Transit with a similar system. I have on longer trips, two Ecoflow Delta 1300s and a Delta Max. So I just run my solar output to my power box terminating with an Anderson connector and then into one of the Ecoflows. I also recently added a Victron DC to DC charger. I can easily run everything with the Ecoflows, including the microwave and coffee maker.
I may didn’t catch or mist the advantage of parallel or série in case of shade (if one panel is in full sun while others may be in full shade) does it make an advantage in series or parallel?
Solar panels need sunlight to function optimally. If maximum solar output is the goal, none of the solar panels should be in the shade. The cool thing about vans is that they can be moved into the sun without too much effort.
Does the lower voltage panel consume power from the higher voltage panels? I have a hard time getting my head around this. Is it like connecting a 9v battery to a 6v battery? If they have low internal resistance, wont the 6v battery heat up?
Good question! That's a pretty complicated answer that won't fit into a comment reply. If I can figure out an easy way to explain that, I'll do a video over it one day. Until then, we will just have to settle for 'how' it works as shown in this video (and this video: th-cam.com/video/jejro4zkl8I/w-d-xo.html) and accept that the 'why' it works 'is what it is'.
Nate can u get them to make bigger flexible panels? 😅 I’m interested in that cigs tech but know nada about them.
Nah, lol. It's an absolute ton of work to get that pushed through, and I think that this 200w/55w/35w combo is better than what I can come up with for any kind of flexible panels.
I think those smaller panels could be great additions to a Revel, too.
For sure!
What's the price for this complete build?
Doesn't that setup make it hard to clean off the solar panels?
Once you open the Maxx fan won't that shade the panels right next to it?
A little bit when the sun angles are low in the sky. The only way to 100% get rid of shading is to: A - Not have any fans/air conditioners on the roof; or B - Elevate the solar array about 10" off of the roof like we did on our last Sprinter; which is obviously not nearly as sleek as this setup we've got going on now.
Can you use your 580 solar kit for 24 volts which includes panels on a 12 volt system?
Yes! Would just need a slightly larger charge controller. If you're wanting to go that route and need help sizing that... submit an order ticket at shop.explorist.life/support and we can get you squared away. Great question!
Nate do you have a design for the Transit high roof extended using a RTX-2000, Maxx Air and the Unaka Ford Transit Roof Rack - HSLD - 148EXT High Roof rack -it looks like your build is not on the extended van? I have a 2023 Transit Trail high roof extended on order and am trying to plan a build that would provide maximum solar, the RTX-2000, Maxx air fan. I can option a Ford factory install of the Maxx fan but I cannot tell where they would install it yet. I am trying design maximum roof solar to support the 3 GC3 batteries I want in the build. I will be utilizing a factory installed 2nd alternator as well. Please let me know if you have any ideas -Thanks -I am a subscriber
Our van is the non-extended version. I would just install the maxxair fan yourself. I think that having ford 'guess' on where you want it will be a recipe for disaster in terms of solar planning. I do believe that Unaka has this same roof rack available in an extended version which would just have enough room behind the AC for an additional 200w panel.
How much degradation of the GPS/GNSS satellite signal have you noticed with the sharkfin antenna being under a solar panel or the wind fairing?
None. Disclaimer: We don't use the transits GPS, so I have no clue. 🤣😂
belting,thanks
No problem. Happy to help!
Sick!
I would definitely use separate charge controllers because those little panels are going to get shade from the AC and that's going to strangle the whole system.
Yes but since they are connected in parallel to the other two arrays the only power loss is going to be the small shaded array.
Ivan, When you get ready to hook this array up to your own van, let me know and I'll be happy to sell you as many charge controllers as you want for your own system. 🤣 The shading is very very minimal. I'll do a review of this system after we get to use it a bit and let you all know how it performs in real life and not just internet speculation.
Couldnt you have gone w the ecoflow battery bank and solar panels .? Then use that battery bank to charge your ev (byy seperate charge cable) and use it for external tools as well??
The ecoflow unit is significantly lower quality than the system we built in this van.
@EXPLORISTlife AWSOME!!! I'm really looking fordward to adding your setup in a Ford e-transit 2023 work van . So I can use the panels and your aux setup to charge the van while I work . While adding a bathroom & pop off bed on the roof .
Looking at your site for the help 👍
I was planning on running a mixed array with 6x100W and 2x30W panels (everything in pairs of two) but received this reply from Newpowa:
“There is no problem with your calculation. Meanwhile, connecting panels of different wattage is still not recommended. It is not only because it will cause the output of system to drop, but also because there will be a inverse current in that system, which may cause a damage to the panel.”
Could you speak to the inverse current and output drop? My configuration has very little loss in terms of how volts and amps are added (less than 2.5W loss) with the series parallel configuration. I know I need a 5A fuse on the 30W panel but they were still concerned. Thoughts?
If a manufacturer is recommending against something, I cannot, for liability reasons, recommend you ignore it. If they are saying to not mix and match their panels, you should run each set to seperate charge controllers.
@@EXPLORISTlife do you know what Newpowa support is referring to so I can make my own informed decision? Have you heard of this with other manufacturers? Any links to info are appreciated! Thanks
Hi Nate! I would need a one on one assistance from you to improve my system, how can we do it?
Thanks!!!
Unfortunately, I no longer offer consultations. More info on that at the end of this video: th-cam.com/video/UaJorpj3p2s/w-d-xo.html
I do, however, have wiring diagrams available that meet the needs of 95% of the people who were paying for consulting, so that's the route I'd recommend going. Here is the link to those: explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams
I even have a full tutorial showing you how to install these systems into a camper. Here is one, for example: th-cam.com/video/01F4QDVJUq0/w-d-xo.html as well as a full playlist that teaches you how to design this stuff yourself: th-cam.com/video/JonRJVchBaQ/w-d-xo.html
This should get you pointed in the right direction
A 200w flexible panel double sided taped to just above the window will give your clients more power if required
I will pretty much never recommend a flexible solar panel 'taped' to the roof. There isn't enough cooling for the panel to function optimally and their lifespan just isn't long enough; and when it needs to removed and replaced; there is usually significant damage to the paint underneath, making it look junky. If we need additional power, we will have the capacity to deploy a ground solar array up to 1700W, have significant alternator charging, or running a generator/shore power.
@@EXPLORISTlife yeah a tip on that is to use a vinyl wrap on the metal and glue a conjugate plastic panel like realestate signs to the wrap and then panel to the plastic and it gives good cooling. I have a panel on my hood and that functions well. Only place I can put one on the 4wd
Hi Nate, why did you go for so much solar? I was thinking the Dc/Dc charger would complement to charging enough that I would only need 200 -300 watts of Solar. Would that not work or are you thinking you will park up for long periods. Thanks. Brian
When we were living on the road full-time, we would use about 300Ah of battery bank capacity on every normal 12hr work day. To re-charge 300Ah of battery bank capacity, it takes about 600W of solar. Even with a big 100Ah Victron Buck Boost, we didn't want to have to take an hour(plus) long drive every night after working, so having adequate solar is key.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks for getting back to me so fast. I will have to re think our daily usage and probably add more solar and probably up the battery bank too. Thanks again. Brian
I'm just a newbie, but with the mis-matched panels, you said the only way to reach 100% is 3 separate charge controllers. Is it possible to take the output of all three strings, connect them all to a bus bar, then tap off of that bus bar, into a single controller, and utilize all the power efficiently? Seems logical to me, so eager to hear why one would or would NOT use this approach.
Here's a video that will teach you all about that: th-cam.com/video/jejro4zkl8I/w-d-xo.html
@@EXPLORISTlife Thank you. I have watched that one before, and re-watched it today. I understand the affect of the different voltages and taking the lowest denominator. I'm curious about, for example, if you take two 200W panels and combine their output to a bus-bar, and you combine 2 400W panels, and combine their outputs onto the same bus-bar, would you get full power for both, and simply tap off of that bus bar, to your charge controller, and be ok? It's probably a bit different than how I asked it before, in that I am saying to put the same panels together.
@@Oldsrulez mc4 connectors and busbars are the same thing, electrically.
I follow you each step of my electric build. So far is great. Question: Where did you buy the wind deflector? Thank you.
It comes as part of the roof rack: unakagearco.com/collections/ford-transit/products/explorist-life-transit-roof-rack/?dt_id=105323
The install video: th-cam.com/video/y1iI-wjm_D8/w-d-xo.html
Please one video of mismached solarpanel with optimaizers in theory hey have to work just fine but I never see one video about that
I don't use optimizers in any of my solar array designs.
@@EXPLORISTlife thanks for the answer
Though it was a bad thing to mix panels ?
It's a bad thing to mix panels without understanding how the mismatched panels work in the same array.
Supposedly solar panels only last so long.
My question is... are the panels still aging if they are outside but not connected to a system? (So its not active, but outside, either on a maintenance phase or a winter shut down)? (Or aging faster or slow depending on if the system is going or not going with the results being much different from each other?)
Also the last 2 years the panels are getting MUCH smaller, and saying they are doing more. I'm worried if the numbers can really be trusted. Do you think they lie about their stats?
Thank you.
Rigid solar panels are usually warrantied for something like 20-25 years. I doubt anybody has tested to see if the 'life' is longer when they are disconnected because... well... what good is a solar panel that isn't connected to something? That's like asking how long an engine will last if you never drive it. It's just not a useful number.
I don't think that solar panel companies are lying to us, no.
I need everyone’s quick attention;
I have 8 100w panels. Specs-18 volts/ 5.5 amps. They are currently in 2 sets in series then parallel.
My question; I just purchased 2 200 watt panels. Specs- 18v/ 11 amps, doing the math of adding these as series then parallel with the other panels “doesn’t get me much”? Correct?
Sure appreciate anyone help!
👍👍👍
I think I'm gonna cheat on my boat. A big array of 600w for my main leisure that will run an inverter and some main stuff (water pump etc), then a second 200w array with its own charger to keep lights going, and top up the engine/starter motor.
Wouldn't it be easier to put 2 300w?
Sure, except for that wouldn't fit. 🤣🤷
If you put 200w in parallel get 20 amps just about instead of 15 amps .. why don’t you did that
Is it possible to use this solar array with a 48v inverter charger and 48v battery bank? I don't fully understand these 48v inverters, but they say the MPPT range is 120vdc-450vdc. Does this mean that the solar array wired like you've done is too small? Will the inverter charge the batteries with a lower input voltage?
Also, can you wire an alternator into the PV input of the inverter to combine solar + alternator charging while underway, even if it's not a 48v alternator? Apologies in advance if this is the stupidest shit you've ever heard, I'm just not educated enough in electrical
I guess it depends on the charge controller. This array won't work with a Victron charge controller and a 48V Battery bank as the array voltage is under the battery bank voltage.
Perhaps taking a look at www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams will show you how to set up a proper full system. 👍
I think you would get better efficiency by just using two long panels on the sides of both the AC and fan that was closer matched to the voltage output of the 200W panels.
We ran the numbers on that as well and found that not to be necessarily feasible due to manufacturing reasons. Remember... there's a LOT LOT LOT more that went on behind the scenes of this video to make this setup work and although there is always something 'better'; perfection is rarely attainable except on-paper.
@@EXPLORISTlife I think you will find that those two small panels will only yield about another 40W total in real operation, so not sure they are worth the cost. I fully understand the need to get the most out of the system. I am running three 175W on my Sprinter but only getting about 125W out of each.
In cool weather the output will be higher. I've seen 240W from 2x100w panels before on a cold clear day in late May.