Cleaning up hand planes - Video 1. Focusing on cleaning the body (aka: sole) of Stanley hand planes
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
- This video goes into detail about cleaning up the sole of the plane. Where are you starting from and where are you wanting to go with it?
As promised, here’s the link to Greg Rickett’s website - aplanelife.us
I also recommend following Mark Webster on Instagram @mwebster51
Let me know if you’d like any other links or directions to anyone or anything else mentioned in the video!
Thanks for watching!
Brass brush or wheel has been something I’ve had good luck using. Started with my grandfather’s jack and spent way too much time with a rag and wax trying to preserve his touch, but I learned about steps of aggression very well in that process. Really cool video; thank you
Copper wool works real well and is soft enough that it won't scratch. I've also used aluminum foil which is cheaper and more plentiful.
Excellent video , very helpful wish more people with experience would post videos like this ; I'm fairly new and there is so much to learn , thank you taking out time to do this video
Happy to do it. I plan to do some more cleaning / refurb videos in the future
Simple green is pretty awesome stuff. I was getting it cheap at Costco for a while but they stopped selling it by me. Another good video, looking forward to part 2. Thanks👍👍
I agree. It’s uncanny how well it works and with zero negative side effects that I’ve ever seen
Well done video. Helpful for someone getting started like me. I am just down the road in Richmond.
Thanks for tuning in! Let me know if you have any questions I can help answer. Be sure to check out the Richmond Antique Tool Society as well.
@@justplanefun thanks I appreciate that. Will do.
Thanks for the vid and running through the levels of restoration up to refinishing. Definitely giving me good ideas.
Thanks for the indepth video on how to clean them up properly.
Used PB Blaster or WD40 with razor and 4/0 still wool to loosen rust. Leaves patina as you shown. Also used the above solvents with Orange sticks (wood) to clean the body and frog where japaning areas are, to loosen grime and pick out corners with Orange sticks. Minimal intrusion is key as you pointed out. Waxing plane bed nice and oil on the frog mating and iron contact surfaces👍. Nice vid sir. Your approach for a newbie is straight forward. Thank you
If you have an Ebay store please provide.
I’m on eBay but I don’t have a store or anything. I sell a lot thru Facebook though.
Thank you for reply. On another note. Their is a channel Plane Collector. His videos still up and hasn't answered comments and dosen't post any longer. His approach on planes similar to yours. Wonder if you are familiar with him and if he is ok. He seems to have dropped off the grid.
Why is it harmful to use the evapo rust on some of these planes? I understand some have pieces with nickel plating but evapo is only removing rust and doesn’t have to be neutralized like vinegar.
@@6atlantis I'll offer that Evaporust leaves a 'grey' finish that some folks object to. It buffs out pretty easily, but does require that extra step. I like Evaporust, especially for small parts and things with lots of grooves and nooks. Just ensure it is completely submerged or only in solution for a short period.
Very helpful! I have a #7 type 4 that came to me in very good condition, and I wanted to go the lightest touch on it as possible to make it a user. I have a much later #6 (made in England, possibly as late as 1970s) that I've cleaned up already, and I know I went pretty hard on it, but it came out ok. Much appreciated!
I have used Evaporust on a plane with no issues. it cleaned up real nice.
It all depends on how far the restoration is gonna go. If the sides are gonna get shined up and the sole lapped, it’s unlikely that evaporust will make a difference. But for preserving patina, it’s best to scrape it I think
Thanks for the advice MJ....my toothbrush oily taste was really starting to get tedious....now I use a seperate one for cleaning tools thanks to you. :-D
I'm so glad I could help out!
Thanks for the razor blade idea. I would have never have considered it. I do use Simple Green all the time.
Rewatched again, I like to wash up in kerosene. I think it does the steel good. After a good clean in kero, wash down in metho, dry and see what you have, I wax the steel all over and polish off. This gives me time to think about where I am going. I prefer to buy uncleaned as is. My thoughts to others whom sell item please dont clean I will do that, all I want from a seller is to send me my item really well wrapped and packed. cheers from Tasmania. like the videos.
I appreciate you tuning in! Lots of collectors definitely prefer to clean em up their own way. Well packed is always preferable. I have a small collection of pics saved on my phone of times the packing wasn’t done well. Nothing worse than a 100 year old plane being damaged while in transit
Awesome information, and I look forward to browsing through some of your other videos.
I heard you mention the type 11 planes often, and it appears that you had a number of them on the bench in front of you. Is there something special about the type 11 planes that you like or dislike? Is there a particular type of the Bailey & Stanley planes that you prefer to collect and/or use?
The type 11s are just a personal preference. Most any plane from type 1 to type 20 can be a good user (some might argue that using a type 1 - 3 would be sacrilegious).
Generally speaking, collectors seem to like type 10-15 the best. Users seem to like type 10-19 the best. But I can’t stress it enough - any Stanley Bailey bench plane can be tuned up and used
Hey mate, love ur videos, im a woodworking beginner but am fascinated with planes, unfortunately in my country Colombia there is no much market and is hard to buy an old one in good condition, so i've bought some of them in USA, what kinda cleaner u used first?
The method I use is based on the condition of the plane when I get it and how far I want to go with the cleanup.
Evaporust is for the worst cases. Simple Green and a scrubbie or a razor blade is sufficient for most planes. That will get the outer layer off and let you see what you’re working with
I really do like those shiny totes on that type 11.
This is a great video…introducing a novice (like me) to wood plane restoration. I promise….I won’t crucify you! Question #1. Why the dislike of vinegar bath. I have already broke that rule….but it was just for less than two hours, and all it did was “gray out” the steel….and it was a fairly rough Defiance N.1244….not necessarily a “collector”. But the blade sure took an edge nicely! Question #2. I know it’s just the “Navy” in me (37 years, if it’s salt, we wash…if it’s dirt, we scrub…if it’s rust, we chip and/or grind, red lead and haze gray. But a wood plane is not a ship in a salt-spray environment. I plan on using it…none of mine (except my old Bailey wood body planes)…have any value. Hell, I’m even considering stripper, clean, prime and paint. Your message is valid….and I’m rethinking….because I like what you said about the fact that we are simply the “current custodians” of these tools. Not far from the Chesapeake Bay….while I miss fresh blue crab….I don’t miss that humidity! But up here in New England, we get that humidity too….just not with the high temps! Bravo-Zulu, brother….I enjoyed your video!
Thanks for watching! And for commenting too.
Vinegar permanently changes the metal, even if it’s not visible to the naked eye. With all the follow-on maintenance that’s recommended after a vinegar bath, it’s a wonder anyone still uses it. If soaking is preferred, evaporust is a far better option and it won’t permanently alter the metal
I recently released a short where I do a better job of demonstrating the scraping method I mentioned in the hand plane cleaning video.
It’s your plane so there are no rules about what you can and can’t do with it. For collectible planes, the rule of thumb is generally, “don’t do something to it that can’t be undone” but for common planes, the sky is the limit. You want to own and use tools that you’re proud of and that are pleasing to the eye - whatever that may mean to you. But hey, I’m not the expert by any means - just offering some tidbits of info based on what I’ve picked up over the last several years of conversing with users, collectors, and curators.
The northeast is a great place to be for collecting antique tools!
I live about a mile from the Delaware Bay, and I am struggling with the same humidity problem!
Hi, really enjoying your videos. what are you thoughts on the CITES restrictions and how they have effected the vintage tool sales/market? I'm finding it extremely hard to find nice pre-war planes in Canada.
The CITES restrictions do put a damper on things for sure. There are some tool dealers in Canada you may be able to get in touch with
@@justplanefun oh really?! do you happen to know any names for Canadian dealers i could look up?
Good content as always MJ. I was wondering what’s your take on the Sandflex? Have you ever used it?
I have used them and I think they’re great. If I use 220 or 330 grit sandpaper on a hand plane, I sure don’t have any concerns about using an equivalent Sandflex sanding block
for the same purpose
Very informative and interesting video.
What would you recommend using instead of SimpleGreen or EvapoRust if those two are not available to you?
I’ve heard of folks using WD-40 as well. Do you have access to some type of oil such as CLP - cleaning, lubricant and preservative?
What do you have access to? maybe that’s the best question.
There are two speciality stores here in Norway that sell Evapo-Rust and they charge NOK 599,- (about $70) for 3.8L/1 gallon plus shipping - so about $85 total for 1 gallon. Too steep for my meager budget.
I do have WD-40 in my workshop so I will try that as a substitute.
Thanks a lot for the feedback!
Great video! I have a couple questions... First, any tips for cleaning the rust off a corrugated sole? Second, have you ever tried the WD40 Specialist rust remover soak? I bought a bottle a while back after watching a restoration video but haven't used it yet.
I haven’t personally used the WD-40 rust remover but if it works via the chelation process then it’s in the same family with evaporust. With any new product it’s typically best to test it out on a similar surface (a broken plane body maybe?) before trying it out on the real thing
I'm a noob and used vinegar a couple years back. Whoops. Is the damage done or should I do something to neutralize it?
It’s most likely ok if it’s been a while since the soaking. I’m assuming you’ve used wax, oil, or some other treatment on it since you cleaned it up?
The vinegar is an acid that eats away at the metal but it’s usually not super obvious that it’s been done, especially after the plane starts to take on a new patina again. Unless no other action is taken, in which case it’ll usually retain a dull grey appearance and may be prone to flash rusting
@@justplanefun Thanks. A little wax but I better use more. I just moved from a dry climate to a very humid one.
I just purchased a very nice 604
It has 3 lines imprinted patd,apr2-95,apr1910
Can you date this bedrock?
Thanks
Leo
Scroll thru my videos and you’ll find one that covers the Bedrock type study. If you have any trouble, let me know and I’ll send the link
I just got a type 11 5 1/2, has 70 % japanning w minor rust in the voids. I cleaned that w a dremel wheel. Not sure if i should get a sharpie paint marker or just put some light oil on those spots. I could repaint it but then the plane gods might not be happy lol.
I recommend a light coat of oil. If most of the japanning is still there, I’m a “leave it be” kinda guy
I’m new to plane collecting and have used vinegar to clean up all my planes including a 4,5 1/2, 10 and a record no 78 and have seen no pitting form vinegar I’m slightly confused could it be a different vinegar or I pull them out before it starts pitting. I also think it leaves a nice patina on the planes
The after effects of vinegar aren’t always immediately visible but over time they tend to show thru. Most vintage tool folks agree that staying away from vinegar is best.
If you’re dead set on soaking them, evaporust is a better option. Scraping the rust is overall still the best route to go. At the end of the day, it’s your plane and you can use your preferred technique. But down the road if you decide to sell them, the methods used can affect the planes’ value
Muchas gracias .
Can you rinse off the simple green by water?
Thanks
Leo
Yes. Just be sure to get it completely dry once you’re done
How would you go about getting the rust out of a chip in the japanning? After the simply green for example, you find a single 1/4” chip in the middle of the japanning, what do you do?
I would start with soaking that spot with oil. Not the whole body, just some drops of clean oil such as CLP in and around the whole spot. The oil should get up under the jappaning if it’s starting to peel or otherwise flake a bit.
Then after it has soaked for at least a day, use something to clean it up. Try a regular rag first and maybe progress up to a stiff brush of some kind - brass bristles if you have em.
Time is your friend on it. For the soaking and the long term management of the spot. Judicious use of oil, a brass brush, and/or wax will help keep the rust at bay
I never would have thought of using paste wax with steel wool to remove rust like that. What is the best way to get the rust out of the corrugated groves on the sole? Steel wool with paste wax?
Stiff bristle brush, some oil plus time to loosen it up, scotchbrite scrubbies.
Basically anything that loosens up the grime and then something mildly abrasive to get it out of there. Time and patience along with the above methods are best
@@justplanefun thanks! Sounds very do-able.
“Trial and error” was my nickname in high school, and my motto was “Never use Vinegar”. I HATE the way acids and liquid removers tarnish the raw steel. I am not a metallurgist so I don’t know the molecular reasoning behind the dark finish, but I do know that it is not my goal to save time and effort and be left with a rust free user that’s tainted by a dark gray sole. $0.02
-Castor
So why do you suggest not using vinegar?
Because it causes permanent changes to the cast iron. Even when it’s not immediately visible. Also - it’s just not necessary. Evaporust gets plenty of hate too but it’s not *as* bad as vinegar.
Lastly - it’s honestly better to just use a razor blade and some simple green, unless it’s just a complete basket 🧺 case. But I think I may have mentioned that last part in the video you just watched 😜
@@justplanefun you are right. I jumped the gun and commented before the video ended lol.
@Just Plane Fun Thanks again for the scrub plane blade. Works great in my modified No 5! I'll pick up some evaporust the next time I'm out 👍
Goo gone works pretty good for that gummy stuff
Why is evapo rust “bad” for rust removal on these? It’s not like vinegar
It’s not that it’s necessarily “bad”, it’s just typically not necessary. It’s often easier to use a razor blade, some simple green, and 0000 steel wool to get the same or better results.
@@justplanefun thanks. I just joined your f.b group. I restore old tools and I have a bunch of family owned vintage planes. Right now I’m trying to restore a #4 for myself and one for a good friend. I posted the three No.4’s on the page but I need to fully take them apart before I start asking for more help. I have some really old stuff I’ll post after I finish with the No.4’s. Thanks again
Wish I would have seen this year's before destroying a couple nice pieces in harsh chemicals 😢
It’s all good. Live and learn. At least you didn’t soak a No1 in vinegar, right?
Right?!
@justplanefun true, I guess i could have done worse things , lol.
I personally want to restore the plane back to it once came out of the box
That’s one way to do it
what's rong wid vinagar ?
It permanently changes the metal and the follow-on maintenance required just isn’t worth it. There are much better options available that require less work and do a better job of removing rust
You keep bring up video is to long , no it isn't if you have good stuff to say and don't fwd all the time then things are good, yes some people do not have long attention spans, but they are deficient in brain cells. have a look at Thomas Johnson antique furniture restoration on you tube, long videos have been good for him cheers.
Thanks for the feedback! I’m still a relatively “new” youtuber / content creator so I’m still figuring it out. Some material just lends itself to longer videos 🤷🏻♂️
6 min in to video, yes all the way, thank fuck you don't soak shit in vinegar and salt.
Never vinegar!
@@justplanefun I see so many people soak planes in vinegar, brought a plane from a local whom restored a no.4 Stanley, 6 months latter rust set back in. asked him about method he used to clean, you guessed it vinegar and salt , restriped plane buy hand many hour of work. like videos so far cheers from Tasmania