5 Things I Did Before Pouring Concrete Slab Pole Barn House Ep 7
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มิ.ย. 2024
- All the ground prep work I did before pouring the concrete slab floor in the pole barn house. I put in gravel, plastic vapor barrier, rigid insulation, and remesh wire. Last I will put in radiant pex tubing for heat in the next video.
bit.ly/PexTubingRadiant here you can get Pex tubing with oxygen barrier.
amzn.to/2zYFpov here are the 1inch 90 degree elbows for where the pex enters and exits the slab.
bit.ly/Zipties here are the zipties. You will use a lot.
amzn.to/2txjDFe here you can find the CST Berger laser transit. If you need a good transit. Awesome setup and very accurate!
• Pex Tubing Uncoiler DI... here is the video how to build a Pex tubing uncoiler.
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I hope this video helped you. Thanks for watching.
Music credit: Morning Mandolin by Chris Haugen. Thanks Chris I really like the tune.
#PoleBarnHouse #diy #concrete - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
What a great video series and thank you taking the time to put together and share. Definitely looking forward to the concrete pour! Your boy is adorable and you guys are making great memories
Thanks so much I appreciate that! I will continue to update as I get time. 👍👊
Wow ! Excellent work buddy, your son will be proud of your home looking back on this one day will be priceless. Its great!
Thank you so much!
No homestead channel is worth it's salt without toddlers and kids roaming around and brightening everybody's day. They are these wondrous creature that will test your patience and at the same time put a big smile on your face. I couldn't watch a homestead channel without kids because you know the extreme hardships these folks on the homestead go through and it would just suck the life off you. But with kids, even a muddy backyard and none existent plumbing is heavenly. Your kid sir is the cutest and stay well.
Thank you I appreciate the kind words. You are correct about the kids they make it all worth it. 😊
Nice job and your little helper playing in the mud was just too cute. Brings back some childhood memories. 😊
Thank you! 😊
Thank you! You answered my question about the thermal break on the side wall. I'd only seen it done on a concrete foundation and wasn't sure about doing it to the treated skirt board. I was going to do it anyway but this sure is reassuring.
You’re welcome. Best of luck with your project!
Love the pex coiler - very smart!
Thank you! I did a video on building it if you want to see it in more detail. Thanks
Looks nice a nice project. Nicely done and informative. Thanks.
Thank you! 👍👊
Awesome video, will be following ur build. Considering this for my future house. Keep up the good work.
Thank you! Best of luck with your build!
Guys I am learning woodworking shed plans at *WoodBlueprints. Com* I recommend this website all you guys who are beginner or advance in woodworking
Keep up the videos. Many of us like to learn from you.
Thank you for letting me know!
Great job. Good thing you had your super cool helper or I don’t think you would of finished!!!
Thanks. Yeah he’s been a big helper! 😁
Just find your channel love it subbed im mostly 95% car stuff diyer in my channel but loves working in my home also so i can her good ideas from you when i finally be able to move to us i love in Puerto Rico in near future I hope can move to us so I can continue my car rebuild hobby
Awesome thanks so much!! I appreciate that. Good luck in your move. Where in the US are you moving to?
Thanks I've been thinking about building my house almost the exact same way, great reference keep up the good work
Thank you I appreciate that very much! Good luck on your project!!
Smart Easy DIY op
What’s op?
Great video
Thanks!
🤩😍😍😍 thank u I wish I knew u so u could guide me when I do mine
Thanks. I hope yours goes well! 😊
cute little guy. nice job on building.
Thank you!
Well done .After foundation preparation . Pouring and screeding .concrete laser screed machine will much high efficiency and save cost .More videos on my homepage
Thank you
sweet vid smashed like
Thanks! 👍👊
Nice prep job. Extra vap Berri. Will keep vehicles frm rusting as well as heat vap
Thank you!
I am going back and watching your building series again. Y'all have done a great job on your home and I have enjoyed following along. I am not questioning but asking a question. I've seen just the small amount of insulation around the edge of your slab and obviously the foam board under the slab but I haven't seen any footers around the concrete. Is this not needed with the post and beam concept or with the radiant floor? Our place in Colorado has about a 4 foot freeze line and a previous build there we had 4 foot deep insulated footings around the slab.
Thanks! Yes so the posts them selves are 4 feet down in the ground so that is for the frost line. But yes here I’ve been told usually people only insulate the first 4 feet of the floor all the way around but I didn’t want any heat loss so I insulated under the whole thing.
Very nice..... it looks very professional.That conveyor spreader was awesome....i can only image how much time and effort that saved. I build with the same mindset.....A little extra money goes a long way for quality and peace of mind (your choices for the vapor barrier and foam thickness). Are the footer boards going to stay on after the concrete is poured? Keep up the great work.
Awesome thanks! I removed the lower parts I put on the footers once it was set up and filled it with gravel against the outside.
Also yes sometimes the little extra is worth it for peace of mind cuz you can’t go back later on something like this. And yes that conveyor saved so much time and raking! 😊
Congrats on the build of your home. I've enjoyed watching all of the progress. Question: Since your main level will be on the concrete slab, is there any danger of moisture entering the home from rain storms/melting snow? Most homes have a step up or a few steps up or a crawl space so the main level is a bit higher then the ground. Just curious. I find this whole house build fascinating! Thanks.
Thank you I appreciate the feedback and you following along! Yes a good question mine is up a little bit from the ground but also after I built it I dug down and put a drainage ditch all the way along the upper side of the house to drain any water away that would accumulate. I’ll be making a video about that in the future. We did go through a couple years the way it was and never had any issues though. It depends a lot on your location and what the ground is sloped like around you too. Thanks
Insulating your slab is so much easier than what I have to do .. Code is making me dig 2ft down around outside edge for foam board .. If I knew this from the start I would've dug a trench for my post instead of holes .. Then I can fill in and level pad base for more insulation
Yeah wow that is a lot of work. I’ve heard of that before. Yeah now you’ll have to be careful you don’t mess up your posts at all. Or if you poured concrete in the holes that would be had to dig around too.
Yes I gotta be careful around my post .. Last thing I want to do is have to try and straighten them out
Yes for sure. Good luck with it!
Looking at preventing post-rot from moisture wicking effect of the concrete - I think the perimeter foam is a great idea. Does your vapor barrier shield the grade level of the posts from the concrete as well?
Yes the perimeter foam should help and the vapor barrier should as well. 👍
Are you sharing the plans/floor for your home? Thanks in advance. :) Looks great!
Yes I will plan to in one of my next videos in this series since I’m gonna be framing walls soon. 😊
@@SmartEasyDIYer I'm looking forward to seeing the plan! Thank you :)
Thank you for your excellent videos. I watch both of your shed builds, now watching your home builds. Couple questions. 1) What is the purpose of the corrugated drain pipe under the gravel? 2) What are the foil covered lines running up near your trailer? Thanks!
Thanks Leo! So the corrugated drain pipe is for a radon vent. I’m hoping to make a video on that in the future. I believe the foil covered lines you saw are insulated waterlines for the camper to keep it from freezing.
@@SmartEasyDIYer Thank you sir!
You’re welcome!
Great video! Wanted to ask is there an advantage to pouring after the structure is erected? Did you run into any difficulty doing it this way?
No difficulty at all as long as I left the sides open so they could have easy access. It would be a lot harder if the building was completely done. With doing this type of building you almost have to pour it afterward so you can pour it around the posts. If you did a slab on grade and build a traditional stud wall off of that you would pour it first.
20 years ago I told the contractor I wanted 6 mil under the slab. All I got was why ittl b hard to cure the cement. I was looking for the radon protection as well. I wonder if they slit the plastic.
It took a while to set up but it’s definitely good to have in there for moisture barrier etc. I put some 4 inch corrugated pipe underneath all that for a radon vent.
Do you suggest raising the wire off the foam board with bricks? so that the pex is in the middle of floor vs bottom
I think it’s ok if it’s towards the bottom. When you are pouring the concrete you usually pull it up some with your rake as you go so it usually ends up in the middle anyways if that makes sense.
I did commercial construction, but I'm by know means an "expert" on concrete. However, that's a pretty big floor to simply use mesh for reinforcement and no rebar. I'll be very surprised if that floor holds up.
Hey thanks for the comment. Well it’s been a year and a half since it was poured and it’s holding up great. The one thing about it if I was driving heavy vehicles on it all the time I would definitely want rebar but there’s no weight on it besides just normal living in a house. I think that’s where rebar really comes into play
What type of insulation did you use under heated floors? Do you know the psi and was it foil backed?
OK yes I found your other comment. Again, I did a more recent video on my garage build. This should explain a lot more. I don’t remember the PSI, but it is made by the same company that makes the logix insulated concrete form blocks. th-cam.com/video/nLRstQo-2v0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=CHPIoYYfaX_mZ4SR
Did you guys do a kit for materials or where did you get all the frame material? How can we do the same in the most cost effective way?
I didn’t do a kit. I talk about it more in this video. th-cam.com/video/pBNgithxva4/w-d-xo.html
Like #16!!!!!
👍👊
Do you think a moisture barrier would help mold grow? I believe air where you can get it is good to help moisture problems.
In this case I don’t think it could help mold grow. It seals off between the ground and the concrete. Air may help in some cases but that’s no doable with concrete. Is that what your working on is a concrete floor?
I actually do a lot of concrete in New Mexico. We are just not required to put plastic down. Just like elastomeric stucco it seals on walls so good it helps create mold. Just because it has no way for air to pass through. Maybe it’s different building codes.
when i built our shed i used a plan from *WoodBlueprints. Com* and it had all the blueprints, supplies, materials, and list well laid out for me.
What state are you in. Nice video
Thank you. I’m in MT.
i really want a t shirt lol
Maybe sometime 😉
Good video just subscribe
Thanks Ryan I appreciate the support! 😊
So it's ok to put the plumbing in before packing? We don't have to worry about breaking the PVC pipes? We used crusher run and 57 stone. Thanks so much!
The PVC is made to be packed around. I made sure to pack underneath first, so it didn’t settle but I’ve never had any issues with it breaking.
@@SmartEasyDIYer awesome. Thanks again for the reply! Moving along slowly over here. Plumbing is next!
Good luck with everything!
Do you have video of pouring concrete over the tubing?
Yes I do I think it’s the next video in the series.
Having your slab above grade didn't get negatively effected by frost expansion/contraction?
No it hasn’t since I have the sides insulated and also the posts are 4’ down below frost level.
Hey I noticed that you isolated or floated the slab from the piers for frost heave by separating it with insulation foam but the cement is still poured up to the wood posts or did you put something to separate it later? I'm looking to build something similar. Thanks
You’re welcome. Yes I think I did a thin strip by the posts but not very thick at all. Even 1/2” would help.
@@SmartEasyDIYer thanks for clearing that up!
You’re welcome.
Cam ladies also do this job? I need a small concrete slab over the existing concret. About half of meter. I bought bondcrete and concrete aggregate. I made the frame. Now what? Please help..
Yes I believe you can do it. I’ve never actually poured concrete over top of other concrete so I don’t have experience with bonding them together personally. It seems to me you would want to drill and attach some rebar into the existing concrete as well to tie them together better. That’s just my thoughts.
Where did you get the rigid foam boards from? In looking for 1 inch, doing same heating system for my new house..
I got mine from a local dealer that does the Logix insulated concrete form blocks for basements. He was half the price Of a place like Home Depot. You could check if you have any insulated concrete form companies around your area. It doesn’t have to be Logix that’s just what he carried there’s a many brands. I think the actual brand of the insulation board was Beaver.
@@SmartEasyDIYer awesome, will do some research. Here in south( Georgia) its harder to find this product, and home depot and lowes charge a ton of money for it...
Dont understand why you put the foam on the edge of the form boards. Being that they are the same height as the form boards. Also if you were planning on leaving those in, how did you get the form boards off since you screwed the foam from the inside? Curious on how that worked out. BTW nothing is really over kill
Yeah so the form boards are my skirt boards which are going to stay. I am not removing those. That’s why I screwed the foam in. Also the foam is there to keep the heat from escaping out the edge of the slab it’s just as important to insulate the sides of the slab as it is underneath for heat loss etc.
Yoshi Ben
The edge insulation is called a thermal break.
What type of gravel, and how thick did you go?
I think it’s typically called 3/4 minus cuz it’s 3/4 and smaller when they crush it. You want the fine stuff in there too so it packs well. It varied depending on the ground underneath it I think around 4 inches minimum.
you might have wanted to move the camper or cover it with plastic for a bit there, wow
Yeah it was so dusty!! But it survived. Lol
Did you get your building kit from Hansen?
No I didn’t get a kit.
Who did your radiant heat floor plan?
Fred Seton did mine. You can google search him. I’m not sure if he’s in business anymore If if he moves. His number was disconnected last I tried. He did radiant designs for many years though.
Do you by any chance have plans for your house?
I have a hand drawn floor plan layout for rooms etc
You can email me the info is in the about section of my channel or message me on Insta or FB. Thanks
Thanks for the video but what is the point of those pipes?
Thanks. That’s pex for radiant heat in the floor.
Unless you’re talking about that 4 inch black pipe I did underneath the insulation that was for venting in case of radon in the soil which is common here.
Why not a post &beam home ?cost?
Hi I did this type because I am familiar with the building process. I haven’t personally built a post and beam before. Cost for the concrete is typically around $100 a yard for 4000 psi mix. Which is what I did. It’s a pretty big pour so I ended up having someone else pour it.
What gauge remesh wire did you use.
I got it at lowes so if they still carry the same stuff it says 10 ga.
What state are you building in ?
I’m in mt.
Has your house slab cracked?
No I’ve seen a couple hairline cracks by the floor drain that’s it.
Why didn't you put the foam around your posts. When the concrete is around your post and your post is in the ground it's going to absorb moisture and expand and contract and crack your concrete. The phone would have given you a barrier for contraction and expansion I don't know why you didn't put it around it
You mean down in the ground? I did put it around the inside of the posts when I poured the slab.
@@SmartEasyDIYer oh OK, I didn't see it done in vid. Cool!
No worries. Good luck with your planning
your not suposed to have two vapour barriors it will trap mold and you shuda put vapour baripr ontop of insulation so concrete doesnt seap below insulation
I want the vapor barrier below the insulation so that it keeps the moisture below the whole thing. If you keep your joints tight on the insulation, the concrete won’t seep down in there, except may be a little runny stuff. As far as the walls, I just did Tyvek house wrap on the outside and 2 inches of spray foam I didn’t do a vapor barrier on the inside.
@@SmartEasyDIYer the foam board can get wet thats why they put plastic ontop of it
Any time I’ve seen they put it below but you can do it either way.
@@SmartEasyDIYer the only time you put barior below foam is when its a refrigerated building or a building thats not heated
Why you used red cord on the floor?
Not sure what you mean by red cord?
Floor heat
Oh that’s pex tubing for in floor radiant heat.
Thank you for answering me.
You’re welcome. I do have a separate video for that if you want to see the process more.
i respect the overkill
Thanks 👍👊
I understand that this is not your fault but I have only one way to vote. I was very interested in watching this post as I am considering a pole barn build. In order to watch your vid I had to sit through 3 full lengths advertisements for junk I have no interest in. I will not be watching your vids until this stops. I am sorry TH-cam is doing this to you.
Yeah sorry usually they just do one you can skip after a few seconds. Good luck with your search.