I like the plan. I will be doing my PB this spring and I’m going to use your idea to anchor the top. I will also be adding 1 1/2” foam board behind each post to insulate the outside steel and the post. Cut to approx.18 1/2” h x 6”w or as required. Instead of relying on blown insulation to fill the gap on top, I may use leftover scraps or some blowing insulation and stuff the top by hand after the vapor barrier is up. This way I can visually inspect it.
Fantastic video. Very helpful. Had a metal pole barn builder who was supposed to install insulation (i have big 8ft unfaced r19 rolls) and bugged out on us leaving supplies behind. The unfinished job is causing a backup with other subs who are also building our house at the same time. So we are tackling installing the insulation and interior girts ourselves so we can keep our projects and builds running along. Your washer idea will work for us too if believe and your repeated “it isnt rocket science “ was super helpful actually….we are super handy and have a good amount of building knowledge but this is a new thing for us to do…i think we can tackle a 32x36 x 10ft wall building with insulation, vapor barrier and girts in 3 days or so ourselves…especially after watching your video….thanks. You made my night
Great video- I'm insulating my 2 stall garage....most of the videos are from Canada which has different building codes/guidelines than we do here in the states. Same with different parts of the country. I live in the upper midwest.....it gets COLD here in winter, and we bake in the summer. SO you really gotta sort through what is best in your area. I talked to one of my buddies who flips houses, and he get me up to date on code- super easy job, just waiting on the electrican to add some outlets and a breaker box. I don't like messing with electrical wiring, I leave that to the experts.
There’s a contractor called rural renovators with a youtube channel called RR buildings. They specialize in post frame buildings and are in the northern part of the US. He gives a lot of really good tips on building and insulating or anything that has to do with post frame buildings. Hes in the north and isn’t big on the spray foam insulation. Looks like you have a nice building!
I've been watching that channel since almost the beginning. Kyle is great builder, but a lot of his videos are sponsored which affects the products that he uses. 5 years ago he made a video saying why he doesn't use spray foam and then later he used spray foam. He almost always subs out insulation and he never gets deep into building science either.
Just came across your channel - love it! Killed me with the sunset diversion - I subscribed on the spot. 🙂 I will probably spend the rest of the night binge watching your content. I am starting my shop -build journey myself pretty soon, in a cold northern climate. You comment about the IRC was spot on - except I think my contractors are not happy with my too-many questions. Really like your style and presentation. Thanks for this!
There is a product called Insul-hold for that. It's a thin sheet metal strip that comes in 100' rolls and you attach it vertically every 16" or 24" to the girts.. Insulation is impaled on the 2-1/2″ arrow prongs which are on 8″ centers.
Insul-hold is a great option. I looked into that, but I needed 9 rolls. In my area, that's about $550 of Insul-hold. My miserly tendencies kicked in and I opted for a less expensive option. Insul-hold is a great solution.
Great video. You are a natural on camera and your editing is good. I appreciate the topic. Like you said there are not a lot of relevant examples for those os us Up Nort.
For me, it came down to price. In my area, mineral wool insulation is about 50% more expensive per square foot compared to the fiberglass I used. This would have added about $700 to the overall cost of insulation. Not a lot in the grand scheme of things, but I opted to put that $700 into other aspects of the project.
I wouldn't use bookshelves either. Less thermal bridging is one of the big advantages of post frame so why screw that up. People say they make the building stronger which is true, but interior horizontal girts and walls (drywall, plywood, or metal) is probably 3 or 5x stronger than Agriculture buildings that don't even have the interior girts. For the insulation I like 7.xx ft wide batts, but they can be harder to source. Or much better foam board if you can find a deal.
You might have seen something weird caused by the camera. I used house wrap on the exterior side of the insulation (all my house wrap is white). Then I used vapor barrier on the inside/warm side of the insulation (all my vapor barrier is clear plastic).
Couple questions just for my education as I’m getting ready to insulate my barn as well. 1. Why did you choose unfaced vs faced? Are you going to heat it in future? I did notice some vapor barrier maybe that’s your barrier. 2. Are you going to put anything over the insulation I.e. drywall, plywood, metal? If so the will bow inward because there’s no support between the main poles. Thanks, and I like your rock wool idea!
Good questions. I’ll be heating with a propane boiler and radiant slab. Need to save some more money before that happens. Menards sells SilverCoat Post Frame insulation that’s a great product, but in my area that was considerably more expensive than unfaced fiberglass and plastic sheeting vapor barrier. Kraft faced insulation is only available up to 24” wide and is more expensive on a square footage basis. Eventually I’ll have 3/4” plywood up the first 8’ of the walls and metal above that. I’m going to install 2x4 girts spaced 2’ apart to support the plywood and metal. I hope this helps as you’re making plans for your barn.
i used JOHNS MANVILLE batt insulation in mine. " FORMALDEHYDE FREE " - - MEANS NO ITCH.. also for blown in insulation i used the white FORMALDEHYDE FREE ...AGAIN...NO ITCH...13inches in the celing..when you have to stuff 32 bags of the white blow in insulation into the hopper....NO ITCH....AT ALL...
love you northern Texas but y'all don't insulate like I do in Montana, I appreciate the insulate pole barn videos but it can be -40's one day and +45 the next R5 isn't cutting it.
The Answer Many Times ( L Y E S ) Within the QUESTION Being Asked... In Other words: " In the End - It All Goes Back to the B E G I N N I N G " Whether *YOU* want to hear this or not ? The Question was put out to all of YOU TUBE World regardless. ( D. I. Y. ) Should really be code for what ? Do IT or Don't Do it * BUTT * if YOU DO Decide to Do it > Make Dam Sure what YOU are Doing is Going to be the best solution for YOU . Cost, Labor, Availability, and Efficiency as a Rule. What is the Worst part of any job ? Not the Planning. Its actually getting it done and being happy with the results. NOT Going Backwards. ( Re-Doing ) Re-Working ( Tearing Out and Replacing ) What was NOT a Good Choice from the very start of it all ( RIGHT ) Yes - No Maybe ??? NOW, Cold Climates have a FUDGE Factor ( Less then or Greater to ) in Infiltration of Cold, hot, bugs, and Water too !?!?!? My Suggestion based on realistic applications. A Combination of different items. REFLECTIX is a Lightweight and Very Easy item to hang, apply, use in large and small spaces too. The Rock Wool serves a Purpose. Just like Ridgid Panels that go up in a hurry. Spray foam like Gaps and Cracks not the MULTI Thousands of dollars two part cans that many fail to put on correctly - regardless. YOU FAILED to mention a Fellow You Tube Creator who did a Very similar Posting about his pole barn in the Northern part of the USA. Michigan. His channel ? 9252 Life. His Wife, Kids, and Himself do plenty of * DIY * Projects worth checking out. INCLUDING how he priced out the various forms of insulation. Some places he used REFLECTIX, In others Fiber glass, and in his Pole Barn ? Rigid Foam Boards that went up like nothing before. Filled the Gaps and Cracks with the * RIGHT STUFF * Bulk can versions. Taped the Seams and With few exceptions COST Way less then many other options being presented. One Way, my Way, The RIGHT Way , or the High Way. What this all means ? The VOICE of REASON Rarely gets heard or understood until at which time * DIY * Projects fail to give the results for all the labor, costs, time invested that now has to be ( Re-Visited ) Once more still. By the Way. YOUR Welcome in advance. I could point out varies ways * YOU * say is NOT what Needs to be done ( YET ) it appears OUR comments are only hear to Be on a soap box preaching to the choir of others willing to take the time and help or ( P L E H ) after the fact .....
I wouldn't have used fiberglass in such a cold climate. Fiberglass loses 40% of its R value below 20F, it jumps to a 50% loss below 0F. You should have spent the money for better insulation!
![ละลาย (LALALYE) - DAOU PITTAYA ต้าห์อู๋ พิทยา [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wo6r9TgausI/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video. To the point, no useless "flash and bang" theatrics. I learned more from this than some of the others. Great work.
Thanks for the great idea 28 x 40’ 14high right now you gave me some great ideas
👍👍👍
I'm getting ready to build me a nice pole barn. Like watching videos like this.
I like the plan. I will be doing my PB this spring and I’m going to use your idea to anchor the top.
I will also be adding 1 1/2” foam board behind each post to insulate the outside steel and the post. Cut to approx.18 1/2” h x 6”w or as required. Instead of relying on blown insulation to fill the gap on top, I may use leftover scraps or some blowing insulation and stuff the top by hand after the vapor barrier is up. This way I can visually inspect it.
Fantastic video. Very helpful. Had a metal pole barn builder who was supposed to install insulation (i have big 8ft unfaced r19 rolls) and bugged out on us leaving supplies behind. The unfinished job is causing a backup with other subs who are also building our house at the same time. So we are tackling installing the insulation and interior girts ourselves so we can keep our projects and builds running along. Your washer idea will work for us too if believe and your repeated “it isnt rocket science “ was super helpful actually….we are super handy and have a good amount of building knowledge but this is a new thing for us to do…i think we can tackle a 32x36 x 10ft wall building with insulation, vapor barrier and girts in 3 days or so ourselves…especially after watching your video….thanks. You made my night
Great video- I'm insulating my 2 stall garage....most of the videos are from Canada which has different building codes/guidelines than we do here in the states. Same with different parts of the country. I live in the upper midwest.....it gets COLD here in winter, and we bake in the summer. SO you really gotta sort through what is best in your area. I talked to one of my buddies who flips houses, and he get me up to date on code- super easy job, just waiting on the electrican to add some outlets and a breaker box. I don't like messing with electrical wiring, I leave that to the experts.
My old electric turkey carving knife works pretty decent when cutting a full roll of insulation in half or squaring up the rokul. Tip of the day.
There’s a contractor called rural renovators with a youtube channel called RR buildings. They specialize in post frame buildings and are in the northern part of the US. He gives a lot of really good tips on building and insulating or anything that has to do with post frame buildings. Hes in the north and isn’t big on the spray foam insulation. Looks like you have a nice building!
I've been watching that channel since almost the beginning. Kyle is great builder, but a lot of his videos are sponsored which affects the products that he uses. 5 years ago he made a video saying why he doesn't use spray foam and then later he used spray foam. He almost always subs out insulation and he never gets deep into building science either.
Just came across your channel - love it! Killed me with the sunset diversion - I subscribed on the spot. 🙂 I will probably spend the rest of the night binge watching your content. I am starting my shop -build journey myself pretty soon, in a cold northern climate. You comment about the IRC was spot on - except I think my contractors are not happy with my too-many questions. Really like your style and presentation. Thanks for this!
There is a product called Insul-hold for that. It's a thin sheet metal strip that comes in 100' rolls and you attach it vertically every 16" or 24" to the girts.. Insulation is impaled on the 2-1/2″ arrow prongs which are on 8″ centers.
Insul-hold is a great option. I looked into that, but I needed 9 rolls. In my area, that's about $550 of Insul-hold. My miserly tendencies kicked in and I opted for a less expensive option. Insul-hold is a great solution.
@@mr.putzer I get it, money is always a consideration. I don't see anything wrong with what you did. It should work fine.
Great video. Thank you!
Great video. You are a natural on camera and your editing is good. I appreciate the topic. Like you said there are not a lot of relevant examples for those os us Up Nort.
Great video, good job man
Did you put in a concrete heated or unheated slab? If yes, how did you insulate the perimeter of the slab?
Another great video!
Awesome video. You and I need to hang out. Nothing like building projects when its close to zero out...... LOL
Why not uses rockwoll insulation for the hole project? Thanks
For me, it came down to price. In my area, mineral wool insulation is about 50% more expensive per square foot compared to the fiberglass I used. This would have added about $700 to the overall cost of insulation. Not a lot in the grand scheme of things, but I opted to put that $700 into other aspects of the project.
@@mr.putzer thanks looks 👍
Music way to loud
Can I ask where you found the 48" x 39' unfaced rolls of insulation? I'm doing the same thing, thanks! I cant find it anywhere
It was a special order from my local Ace Hardware.
@@mr.putzer Thank you very much, do you mind saying how much they were each?
I paid $111 per roll. Not sure what you’d pay in your area. There are a lot of factors that influence price.
@@mr.putzer Thanks so much, loved the video
Did you use UC-4B wood for your skirt boards or untreated?
I used treated because it’ll be in contact with the ground and concrete.
I wouldn't use bookshelves either. Less thermal bridging is one of the big advantages of post frame so why screw that up. People say they make the building stronger which is true, but interior horizontal girts and walls (drywall, plywood, or metal) is probably 3 or 5x stronger than Agriculture buildings that don't even have the interior girts. For the insulation I like 7.xx ft wide batts, but they can be harder to source. Or much better foam board if you can find a deal.
am I seeing a vapor barrier on the exterior metal and on the opposite side of the insulation? I saw clear plastic hanging.
You might have seen something weird caused by the camera. I used house wrap on the exterior side of the insulation (all my house wrap is white). Then I used vapor barrier on the inside/warm side of the insulation (all my vapor barrier is clear plastic).
Couple questions just for my education as I’m getting ready to insulate my barn as well.
1. Why did you choose unfaced vs faced? Are you going to heat it in future? I did notice some vapor barrier maybe that’s your barrier.
2. Are you going to put anything over the insulation I.e. drywall, plywood, metal? If so the will bow inward because there’s no support between the main poles.
Thanks, and I like your rock wool idea!
Good questions.
I’ll be heating with a propane boiler and radiant slab. Need to save some more money before that happens.
Menards sells SilverCoat Post Frame insulation that’s a great product, but in my area that was considerably more expensive than unfaced fiberglass and plastic sheeting vapor barrier.
Kraft faced insulation is only available up to 24” wide and is more expensive on a square footage basis.
Eventually I’ll have 3/4” plywood up the first 8’ of the walls and metal above that. I’m going to install 2x4 girts spaced 2’ apart to support the plywood and metal.
I hope this helps as you’re making plans for your barn.
What fiberglass insulation did you use?
I used Owen’s Corning R-19 unfaced rolls that were 6” thick x 48” wide x 39'2" long.
i used JOHNS MANVILLE batt insulation in mine. " FORMALDEHYDE FREE " - - MEANS NO ITCH.. also for blown in insulation i used the white FORMALDEHYDE FREE ...AGAIN...NO ITCH...13inches in the celing..when you have to stuff 32 bags of the white blow in insulation into the hopper....NO ITCH....AT ALL...
love you northern Texas but y'all don't insulate like I do in Montana, I appreciate the insulate pole barn videos but it can be -40's one day and +45 the next R5 isn't cutting it.
I want “dont really measure anything, just do stuff” on a tshirt
Never too cool for the mask!
The Answer Many Times ( L Y E S ) Within the QUESTION Being Asked...
In Other words: " In the End - It All Goes Back to the B E G I N N I N G "
Whether *YOU* want to hear this or not ? The Question was put out to all of YOU TUBE World regardless. ( D. I. Y. ) Should really be code for what ? Do IT or Don't Do it * BUTT * if YOU DO Decide to Do it > Make Dam Sure what YOU are Doing is Going to be the best solution for YOU . Cost, Labor, Availability, and Efficiency as a Rule. What is the Worst part of any job ? Not the Planning. Its actually getting it done and being happy with the results. NOT Going Backwards. ( Re-Doing ) Re-Working ( Tearing Out and Replacing ) What was NOT a Good Choice from the very start of it all ( RIGHT ) Yes - No Maybe ???
NOW, Cold Climates have a FUDGE Factor ( Less then or Greater to ) in Infiltration of Cold, hot, bugs, and Water too !?!?!? My Suggestion based on realistic applications. A Combination of different items. REFLECTIX is a Lightweight and Very Easy item to hang, apply, use in large and small spaces too. The Rock Wool serves a Purpose. Just like Ridgid Panels that go up in a hurry. Spray foam like Gaps and Cracks not the MULTI Thousands of dollars two part cans that many fail to put on correctly - regardless.
YOU FAILED to mention a Fellow You Tube Creator who did a Very similar Posting about his pole barn in the Northern part of the USA. Michigan. His channel ? 9252 Life. His Wife, Kids, and Himself do plenty of * DIY * Projects worth checking out. INCLUDING how he priced out the various forms of insulation. Some places he used REFLECTIX, In others Fiber glass, and in his Pole Barn ? Rigid Foam Boards that went up like nothing before. Filled the Gaps and Cracks with the * RIGHT STUFF * Bulk can versions. Taped the Seams and With few exceptions COST Way less then many other options being presented.
One Way, my Way, The RIGHT Way , or the High Way. What this all means ? The VOICE of REASON Rarely gets heard or understood until at which time * DIY * Projects fail to give the results for all the labor, costs, time invested that now has to be ( Re-Visited ) Once more still. By the Way. YOUR Welcome in advance. I could point out varies ways * YOU * say is NOT what Needs to be done ( YET ) it appears OUR comments are only hear to Be on a soap box preaching to the choir of others willing to take the time and help or ( P L E H ) after the fact .....
Thank you for your insights.
I wouldn't have used fiberglass in such a cold climate. Fiberglass loses 40% of its R value below 20F, it jumps to a 50% loss below 0F.
You should have spent the money for better insulation!