How to Install Smartside Siding Part 1 | Pro2Pro | This Old House
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- Recorded live from the jobsite of our 2019 Idea House in New Canaan, Connecticut, TOH Host Kevin O’Connor meets up with lead carpenter Gordon Jacobsen of Karp Associates to install a building material called Smartside Siding.
LP SmartSide Siding [bit.ly/30FTFO6]
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How to Install Smartside Siding Part 1
/ thisoldhouse
4:53 misses his hammer slot 7565 times
Kevin always grunts whenever he does anything like bending, lifting like it's extremely strenuous... even picking up a small piece of siding. Funny quirk.
I think we just need to ask Tom silva about the gap. Tom knows everything.
James
From Michigan
This sounds like trouble coming at you down the road! might as well leave the waterproofed sheathing and paint it!
If a little 2 foot board is going to expand out 3/16" isn't a 16 foot board going to expand MUCH more?!?!?
It's like the expansion gap required in flooring (I've been in the flooring biz for 40+ years). Depending on the brand and type of product, the gap requirement is stated, but no allowance for size of room or length/width of board. The pro can decide what's best based on their experience, but the manufacturer doesn't offer a range or even a percentage, just a single requirement that applies to any situation.
You are correct (sort of). For simplicity LP just says to give 3/16 and any long run over 16 naturally gets added expansion area with the field joint. A consistent gap also make it easier for caulking and having these beads be consistent.
@@BiggMo I don't know man. If it expands that much, and there aren't slots for the nails - isn't it going to warp and bow out?
GeorgeGraves: 1st off I’m not a fan of LP, so I’m not defending the product- but there are a few tings to consider in your question. (1) the guy in then video is not accurately describing the expansion, its only expanding to the compression tolerance of the sealant- about 1/8” to both ends 1/4” overall), this is so joints are nor fully collapsing causing the sealants adhesion to fail. (2) remember, the wall/sheathing behind the siding is also acclimating so the differential movement between the two is less than what your thinking. (3) even without considering the differential movement, a 1/4” (1/8”x2) over 16’ is like.... .00083% per inch (or some crazy small number)
I've used a different product from LP called Canexel. Very impressed with it.
Louisiana Pacific settled a huge class action lawsuit on their OSB siding and make another siding with the same OSB but with a water proofing coating this time. How brave they are! I'd run away as fast as possible from their product. Cement fiber siding (aka Hardie) is the way to go. One of the big issue is the gap at the cut edges. Even if you seal the gap, expansion and contraction will cause cracks and water will get into the OSB.
seems like DUH, OSB is great for anything that never gets wet, which is basically nothing in a modern wood framed home
Totally different products. In the Smartside, the strands are impregnated with waxes, resins, and borate.
I've used this product a few times over the last few years, they all look good yet, but can see if ends and cuts aren't painted could look like the old fiberboard sidings that swelled .
concrete board with a nipper that connects to your drill. bam. no expansion, just caulk and done. no leaving spaces so water can penetrate.
why don't you have gecko tools to hold boards in place
If in 20 years this product holds up .... maybe I'll consider it
It’s literally been around for 20 years, I just removed some 20 year old pieces to install a deck and it looked fantastic.
If there is a special way to caulk those edges so it never oozes out, why didn't you show us that part of the installation?
The video title does say "part 1". Perhaps it will be shown in a future video.
caulk goes on, not in gap - don't push it in
The Resin used to bind the board together, if it is in a fire will it produce toxic fuses?
really interested in this product to replace Masonite boards on my house as they fail. A lot of it has already been replaced with HardiePlank and it's good, but I might consider this product to do my shed. In fact it's sided with Smartside now, just the T1-11 version. I might keep that as the sheathing and put this product over to match my house's siding.
We love you kevin
You absolutely need to put flashing behind all of the joints. You can also add an H bracket to connect the joints together. This installation is done improperly
It’s not according to the manufacture.
Do we really need to know that Kevin has just about everyting we need to see form TOH at every ending? I download every TOH video that prefers to me and I cut out the ending of kevin at the end of every video before saving it, This gets very aggravating after a while!
Kevin "you're tellin me thats gonna close up/disappear?!" Contractor "that's what I was told" (aka he doesn't really believe it and hasn't personally seen it close before) That's a yikes from me.
They say in an extended clip that this is the first time using this product. This is one of their "Idea Houses" and that's how it works. They use lots of new stuff in them that they haven't used other places before.
I’ve seen it, and it’s great stuff. Plus it has a 50 year warranty.
I can’t believe TOH would advertise for this product. Your telling me a 2 foot board increases in size the same as a 16 foot board and there is no change in gap for installing in FL vs AZ. Why no flashing between but joints hardie started out that way but now they want you to flash the joint which is way better than relying on the cheapest exterior caulk which is what most painter will use.
there is absolutely no chance that siding is going to expand 3/8" over 26".... that means a 12' section of siding would expand 2" lol.. Can you imagine if your contractor left a 2" gap between pieces of siding...
So, this is particle board wearing a fancy dress?
take a shot every time Kevin interrupts the other guy mid sentence.
CORRECT
Where is the rainscreen so when water does get in the wall can dry????
Walter Curtis: ‘If it can’t dry, it’s gonna die!’
I watched the SmartSide video installation instructions. NO WAY I would use this product with that giant caulk gap.
Hi TOH , I think I've already seen this one !
@Bargain Builder Hi Bargain Builder ! ✋😀
No. In the last video they didn't install it.
@@Jg.Wentworth.877cashnow oh ok thanks Jason , I didn't know that !
Reminiscent of the episode where Norm says "is this place really worth saving?"
doesnt break like hardie when you nail
When i remodel homes and see moisture damage to the OSB wall sheathing that’s under siding which is a secondary surface, I cant trust any type of OSB siding as a primary surface. I can’t believe they didn’t even prime the back side, that bottom edge of the back side isn’t protected from moisture damage from capillary action. LP should had abandoned this line years ago.
Can this be applied over stucco? How would this product fair in raining climate (FL)? Thanks for installing video
Have the stucco repaired, do whatever it takes to repair it, it is far better product than anything other than brick/stone. Or you could just leave it alone and move.
is anybody at all onboard with the idea that those 30 inch pieces they are installing are going to grow 3/4 of an inch ?????
I miss the other guys
What about the underside collecting moisture and falling apart?
he mentioned the backside wax treatment in the video
Not for me thanks for the videos 👍
Hardie Fiber Cement is long lasting better stuff factory painted...
I didn't old houses used zip sheathing lol
So many reasons not to use that on a house, water and weather being tops. A lot of maintenance over the years for a home owner. Not to mention its being installed over another osb weather barrier product called zip. That house is like a big osb sponge. smh
LP still hates water. Read the warranty.
The problem with all these new systems is there's too much reliability on the installer to do their best and follow the manufacturer's exact steps. As we all know, good work is becoming less and less prevalent, and we're opening the gap for margin of error to get worse. No way it'd trust this system... relying on wax to water seal chipboard? Nope!
I don't think so.
Buy aluminum
So your entire exterior is relying on caulk for water proofing; ain't that smart Smartside Siding??
That's what house wrap is for. That's what waterproofs your house.
@@tchevrier House wrap is a moisture barrier; siding or brick are the primary waterproofing, just like shingles on top of felt paper.
@@tdgdbs1
Generally speaking moisture barriers keep moisture away from the structure, do they not???
One of the reasons house wraps like Tyvek and Typar are used is that siding and brick and stucco and pretty much any other form exterior material are NOT watertight. They are not intended to be watertight. They act to protect the house from the majority of the water (primarily water from above) and also to protect the house wrap. But they are not intended to be watertight, nor to protect from pressure washing for example.
Stucco for example will leak like a sieve if there is no house wrap underneath.
In fact, many builders will leave house wrap on the walls from months, sometimes even a year before applying the external finish. And it still protects the house.
If there's a properly installed house wrap beneath this smart side siding, the caulking is really irrelevant. Its more aesthetic then functional.
I don't like vinyl siding, but I also don't like anything that has to be painted. TOH seems to love products that need paint ... is these paint products for the rich who can afford to have their house paint every so many years, I keep wondering.
No thanks! Clearly Home Depot (a sponsor) prevailed on these guys to flog their low-end siding product.
no way in hell
Gaps? No thanks. Too unpredictable. No way I buy this.
Wow, My BS alarm is going off.
4:04. I haven't seen such flagrant disregard for safety like this in awhile... You folks obviously don't own guns, and if you do.. go take a safety class.
Teach us all Forest, teach us all.
This is cheap stuff that it's not going to last 5 years. No thanks!
It's OSB junk