List of My Favorite Tools for DIY Shed Builds: amzn.to/3TNPlcS Materials in this video: LP Smart Siding (10) - homedepot.sjv.io/0Zo30O 2" Siding Nails (Box) - homedepot.sjv.io/rQrxjj 1-3/4" Coil Siding Nails (Box) - homedepot.sjv.io/y2A5GN Kilz 2 Primer (Quart) - homedepot.sjv.io/GmJ5An DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
LP states shed windows should be attached to 2X4 frame, not over the Smart Siding. And if you are using the common LP Smart Siding 38 Series that is sold in Home Depot as per the link here you have to use double nailing on on combined seams, not single nail as shown here.
I built a shed with these materials last fall. I used an oscillating cutter from the inside to cut out the doors and windows. Was clean and foolproof. Would recommend for those who are not expert with the circular saw.
@@EverydayShed Thank you so much for your reply. I just went ahead and installed the smart siding first and then routered out the window openings. I found out that Tough Shed does it, so I guess it's fine. 😆
Great video! Question when using the cordless framer, were the nails driven snug to the siding or were they flush? I saw the over driven nail but couldn’t see the other ones installed. I guess I’ll test drive it first when I start to install the LP 38 siding using my cordless Dewalt 21 degree framer. Thanks
Good point, take a scrap piece and test it out first. The nail should be flushed. However some of them do sink in a bit, and in that case, you will need to caulk the nails.
For sheds not really. This is a little less than 1/2 inch thick. Now, if you are using this on your home, I definitely recommend adding sheeting before this.
Primed 1/2" X 4 X 8 T1-11 Plywood vs. LP Smartside 7/16"? It just seems the plywood would be more durable than the Smartside. I'll have to paint either. Also- if I have a concrete pad, would you had the sheathing drop down just enough to cover the treated sill plate?
It is probably worth putting both to a test. I do know Smartsiding has one side of it treated to prevent termites. ...and as for your second question, yes, the sheeting should be covering any untreated surfaces, so as long it goes down pass the seal plate you should be fine.
If i’m building a shed that might get fairly warm at times and i want to avoid offgassing, what’s better, LP Smart siding or T1-11? I’m wanting something for brooding chicks in during spring
Thanks for the video. I’m in the process of finishing up my shed, but it doesn’t have the front siding yet just installed the rafters to put in the plywood for the roof, but the walls are a little wobbly. once I install the roof and put the siding do usually shed stabilize after that
Can this shed be transferred to another location later on? I’ll be following your videos to build my shed and I’ll be moving to another house in a few years and I’d like to take the shed with me.
I was wondering if I needed to put sheathing down first then put the smart siding on top, but i see you just used this straight to the framing. Good to know. Other question I had was isbthere any benefits to putting tyvek around the framing before putting the smart side in? Or does the smart siding built to not allow moisture in theu the seams?
I used the DeWALT DCN45RNB, you can find it here: www.amazon.com/shop/everydayhomerepairs/list/1YZ4NA4JO1GNY?linkCode=spc&tag=everydayshed-20&domainId=influencer&asc_contentid=amzn1.ideas.1YZ4NA4JO1GNY
It's hindsight of course, but I would have framed the front wall and door framing at the same time with some spacers between them. Add the sheathing while the wall is on the floor and then cut the sheathing to free the doors. The walls will heavier and harder to position though.
Yeah, that would be a interesting alternative method. With the additional door framing the weight of the wall would increase substantially. If you have a extra set of hands it should be doable. Thanks for the feedback!
@@EverydayShed I would cut the doors free while the wall is still on the ground, so you'd only be lifting the added weight of the siding on the wall---not the doors as well.
You need to level the corners before you start your siding! Level siding on crooked walls is no good,! The real cedar siding will way outlast the composite siding!!!!! it just costs more!
Depends on what part of the country you are located in. I'm in the south east (Georgia) and everyone calls it a skill saw and a sawzall. Just like all sodas are cokes :)
List of My Favorite Tools for DIY Shed Builds: amzn.to/3TNPlcS
Materials in this video:
LP Smart Siding (10) - homedepot.sjv.io/0Zo30O
2" Siding Nails (Box) - homedepot.sjv.io/rQrxjj
1-3/4" Coil Siding Nails (Box) - homedepot.sjv.io/y2A5GN
Kilz 2 Primer (Quart) - homedepot.sjv.io/GmJ5An
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Thanks a million for making these videos. They are super helpful and have cleared up a lot of questions I've had!
I thank you so much for this video, I appreciate the detailed information. It helps first time builders.
Awesome! That’s the goal… help as much as I can… thanks for watching🎉
LP states shed windows should be attached to 2X4 frame, not over the Smart Siding.
And if you are using the common LP Smart Siding 38 Series that is sold in Home Depot as per the link here you have to use double nailing on on combined seams, not single nail as shown here.
Thanks for sharing, I'll make sure to reference the installation instructions on the next build.
Thanks for your expertise and experience
Thanks, good luck with your build!
Awesome work Thank you
You bet!
I built a shed with these materials last fall. I used an oscillating cutter from the inside to cut out the doors and windows. Was clean and foolproof. Would recommend for those who are not expert with the circular saw.
Thanks for sharing... I think it does become a personal preference. Building sheds are fun!
Great job explaining to us. I was wondering if you paint over the nails.
I would caulk or putty over the nails first. Then paint…
Do you bottom trim first. Get them level then sit the sheets on top of that. It’s goes so much faster and 100% level on every sheet
Great idea, i'll try that next time.
Aren't you supposed to install the windows and/or doors before you install the Smartsiding?
There are few different approaches to this, i believe both works fine.
@@EverydayShed Thank you so much for your reply. I just went ahead and installed the smart siding first and then routered out the window openings. I found out that Tough Shed does it, so I guess it's fine. 😆
Really excellent, clear and concise instructions!
Thank you so much! I’m glad you enjoyed it. 😊
Easy instructions
Thanks!!
Great video! Question when using the cordless framer, were the nails driven snug to the siding or were they flush? I saw the over driven nail but couldn’t see the other ones installed. I guess I’ll test drive it first when I start to install the LP 38 siding using my cordless Dewalt 21 degree framer. Thanks
Good point, take a scrap piece and test it out first. The nail should be flushed. However some of them do sink in a bit, and in that case, you will need to caulk the nails.
Is sheathing not needed? I'm assuming the siding is thick and strong enough to keep the shed stable?
For sheds not really. This is a little less than 1/2 inch thick. Now, if you are using this on your home, I definitely recommend adding sheeting before this.
Primed 1/2" X 4 X 8 T1-11 Plywood vs. LP Smartside 7/16"? It just seems the plywood would be more durable than the Smartside. I'll have to paint either.
Also- if I have a concrete pad, would you had the sheathing drop down just enough to cover the treated sill plate?
It is probably worth putting both to a test. I do know Smartsiding has one side of it treated to prevent termites.
...and as for your second question, yes, the sheeting should be covering any untreated surfaces, so as long it goes down pass the seal plate you should be fine.
Is there a particular blade for circular saw you would recommend for cutting the Smart Siding panels?
A fine tooth (60 tooth) blade on your circular saw will result in the cleanest cuts.
Great job Carlos!
Thanks Mike!! 👍
This a great series!!! Your explanation is super simple and clear I’m learning a lot from you thank you for making this!!!
You bet, we will have the complete video with build plans and 1-click materials list in the coming weeks. 👍
If i’m building a shed that might get fairly warm at times and i want to avoid offgassing, what’s better, LP Smart siding or T1-11? I’m wanting something for brooding chicks in during spring
I like the LP Smart Siding for the pre-primed exterior as compared to the standard T1-11. Best of luck on the chicken coop
T1-11. Both will offgas, but LP has much more adhesive, and it smells awful in the heat. The t1-11 doesn't smell nearly so strong.
Thanks for the video. I’m in the process of finishing up my shed, but it doesn’t have the front siding yet just installed the rafters to put in the plywood for the roof, but the walls are a little wobbly. once I install the roof and put the siding do usually shed stabilize after that
It's important to sheet the walls first before getting too far ahead. good luck.
Use a flush trim router to trim panels lol
Yup! But unfortunately not everyone has access to a router. Thanks for watching,
Can this shed be transferred to another location later on? I’ll be following your videos to build my shed and I’ll be moving to another house in a few years and I’d like to take the shed with me.
Yes it can… this shed is built on “skids” 12 ft long-4x4 wooden blocks… it is movable when needed. Thanks for watching 😊
I was wondering if I needed to put sheathing down first then put the smart siding on top, but i see you just used this straight to the framing. Good to know. Other question I had was isbthere any benefits to putting tyvek around the framing before putting the smart side in? Or does the smart siding built to not allow moisture in theu the seams?
Housewrap will for sure help if you plan on insulating the shed in the future. I would do it.
What dewalt siding gun where you using?
I used the DeWALT DCN45RNB, you can find it here:
www.amazon.com/shop/everydayhomerepairs/list/1YZ4NA4JO1GNY?linkCode=spc&tag=everydayshed-20&domainId=influencer&asc_contentid=amzn1.ideas.1YZ4NA4JO1GNY
@@EverydayShed I saw that one I think it said it was for roofing I was sure if I could put siding nails through it
what about the exposed bottom of the sheet that is left raw osb. It will start to rot from the bottom.
Gotcha, we can prime the bottom edges, or i seen people add trim as well.
Did you not do a video on how to do the roof? That would be very helpful.
Yes! We have a whole series… th-cam.com/video/_Ugiuyt0YmQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=QYltI8M9Z_PZ44Pv
It's hindsight of course, but I would have framed the front wall and door framing at the same time with some spacers between them. Add the sheathing while the wall is on the floor and then cut the sheathing to free the doors. The walls will heavier and harder to position though.
Yeah, that would be a interesting alternative method. With the additional door framing the weight of the wall would increase substantially. If you have a extra set of hands it should be doable. Thanks for the feedback!
@@EverydayShed I would cut the doors free while the wall is still on the ground, so you'd only be lifting the added weight of the siding on the wall---not the doors as well.
That siding will leak so put housewrap over studs.
I don't think it will leak, but the housewrap will definitely make it better. Thanks for watching!
@@EverydayShed There is no siding that is water proof.That is why you use a water barrier.You can use old school tar paper or modern housewrap.
Definitely can tell your Brazilian! Love it
Sim! Espero que tenham gostado do vídeo… 👍
Great craftsman, great teacher 🙏
Thank you!!!!
A very nice video on LP Smart Siding
Thanks!
Thank you, good instructions
You bet, thanks for the feedback!
Thank you👍
You bet!
You need to level the corners before you start your siding! Level siding on crooked walls is no good,! The real cedar siding will way outlast the composite siding!!!!! it just costs more!
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate the help 👍
Walls are ALWAYS squared and sheeted BEFORE standing. NEVER after.
Thanks so much for the feedback!
No...sometimes walls are squared when they're standing, and it works just fine. Same with siding. Relax, Mr. ALL CAPS. 😅
Thats a circular saw. Skill saw is a brand name. Nice work.
lol 😂 ! You are 100% right… I just noticed that too… thanks for watching!
Sawzall is a brand name for reciprocating saw, but we all call it a Sawzall anyways. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Depends on what part of the country you are located in. I'm in the south east (Georgia) and everyone calls it a skill saw and a sawzall. Just like all sodas are cokes :)
Nah, buddy, they're all a skillsaw. 😅