When I was 14 years old Dad bought me a Sears moped, a Puch. A whole 50 cc quickly. I am 76 now. I rode it for many years and actually had gotten over 10,000 miles on it. It was a truper! I serviced it myself and honed myself into a decent motorcycle mechanic. I moved over to a Honda 150 & later to a Honda 250 road cruiser.
Lee Klemetti hi lee I had one and it did over 23000 before one of the rings disappeared down the barrel.took it. Apart and removed the bits and it still ran for many more miles although I had to paddle like mad to get it started.loved it and would not think twice before going 100 plus mile journey s on it.tim in uk
Justin Holmes man I'm 16 and do some stuff not near the extent mustie 1 does but let me just say mustie1 is the reason I started plus having knowledge of this stuff is so helpful and will save you some money don't let anyone tell you you can't do it I haven't and while I don't always have the time or money I still end up getting it done. I even started a TH-cam channel.
To clean rust out of the gas tank of my "Barn Find", 1973 BMW R75/6, I used a product called "Evapo-Rust". It dissolves rust, but does not harm metal. Non-caustic and works like a charm. Two local restorers have now used it with perfect results. Best rust remover with no mess.
Growing up my dad taught me a ton about working on small engines and cars and trucks…it was awesome knowledge and time spent together…I just wish he was a chill as you while we were working on stuff. 90 percent of his vocab was swearing and the other 10 was “hand me the channel locks”. Thanks for the content it is awesome!!
Hi from over the pond . As an old grease rag myself i like seeing someone teaching others how to fix their own petrol engines, as some one that loves to work on smaller engines you have given me lot's of enjoyment in watching your Video's
I’m enjoying this. I have a 1961 NSU Quickly, and have taken apart that Bing carburetor a few times. Truly a PIA, getting the throttle cable into the little hole, compressing the spring, making sure nothing flies away. Hands and feet are a help....lol
Mustie...I take a handful of 1/4" nuts and bolts and put them in the dirty tank. Put the cap back on and shake the living devil out of it. Sometimes takes two-three times to clean the tank. Best system I ever used. Good Luck.
Hey Mustie aged 16 in the UK in the very early 70,s l had the Puch MS 50D very similar to that one, this take,s me down memory lane, poped 6times round a sport,s running track with the front wheel in the air. Oh what fun back then. Great view and projects, a Man and his shed/garage is a force to behold.
All these videos have inspired me to take up the craft. Im buying my first motorcycle next month, a book to guide me through maintenance, and later maybe some old bikes to get running again.
Ah.....that sound brings back memories of when I was a kid, we had 2 stroke boat motors and would get up early and go for a long boat ride to the fishing hole and that sound and smell of the gas/oil mix.
If you will fill the tank with white vinegar, it will eat the rust, and you can flush it out and have a clean tank. OK once again you prove how well you know what you are doing. Another excellent video.
Hi Mustie 1 I'm 67 this month retired now but still working on projects and love to see your videos you inspire us all and iv learnt allot from you in all your rebuilds I live over the pond as they say in the Uk England all the very best Colin
Thanks for another great video ! Looks like you will have a good survivor moped soon. I do have two comments, though. 1) I noticed that the new petcock has a long,curved inlet tube and the remains of the tube on the old unit was not as long. I suspect that the old tube may have broken off inside the fuel tank and a piece of it may still be inside. You may want to check for that before installing the new petcock ( you may have already surmised this ). 2) This comment is not directed to you, Mustie ( I did notice that you wore proper apparel ), but to any of your followers who are not experienced with using Muriatic Acid ( or any other kinds of corrosive acids ). Extreme caution should be exercised when handling acids. Muriatic Acid IS highly corrosive ! Proper protective gear ( rubber gloves, eye protection, etc. ) should be worn when handling these products . I am a Journeyman Mason ( Bricklayer ) with 30+ years of experience and have handled Masonry Cleaning Acids extensively. Muriatic Acid will eat a hole in one`s skin, clothes, etc. The vapors will affect one`s oral/nasal passages, etc. - use of filtered breathing masks is recommended as well as proper ventilation. Always have access to a plentiful water supply ( faucet,water taps, etc. ) and thoroughly rinse/saturate any skin/body parts, surfaces,clothing, etc. with water ( seek medical help if necessary ). Just words of caution to all. I am looking forward to Part B !
Great series on the Puch. A buddy and I put thousands of miles on a pair of Puch mopeds when I was 15 back in 1973. The little beasties got about 180 mpg. We toured all over the province of Ontario in Canada. For de-rusting I prefer phosphoric acid. It just eats the rust. it will not attack good steel. Same stuff that is in Coca Cola, you know "If Coke eats the rust off of a rusty nail think what it is doing to your stomach" statement your mom used to say every time you wanted a coke. You could leave phosphoric acid in the tank for weeks and it will not eat the steel. Much safer than hydrochloric acid. Also for mopeds you should check out Treatland they sell all kinds of cool moped goodies and engine mods.
Thanks Musstie for doing a moped series. I am a big fan of yours. I like how you explain everything. There is no annoying music in the background. There are very few moped vids. Thanks.
Good info on the carburetor. I wanted to add that the needle height only affects the mixture during part throttle. At full or near full throttle the needle is all the way out of the emulsion tube and only the size of the main jet affects mixture.
For a smaller cheap bore scope they sell mini bore cameras that work on you cell phone they run about 15 bucks on amazon since your didn't fit into that tank FYI AND PS lov your videos!! keep um up!! thnx for sharing your enjoyment with us
I have bought Puch all my live and had about a 1000 of them,i still drive 2 A Puch maxi II Racing Two speed 50 KMH 1982 and a Puch korado automatic 25 KMH 1992. I love Puch from Steyer-Daimler the real ones from Austria.
Old mechanics never die they just lose their "torque". I have sat here now for about 15 minutes watching Mustie1 pick out an old gasket from a petcock and I find it much more interesting than anything I have ever seen on TikTock or any other social media platform.
very easy mopeds to work on. had one in the past and was a blast driving! my throttle froze while driving in the snow back in the day ..that wasnt so much fun haha. the moped i had was standing outside for 5 years and full of water. We removed all the water. cleaned the carb. filled the block with oil ..and withing 5m of running the thing ran hahaha
the muriatic acid trick was taught to me by my father and grandfather , brings back a ton of memories I remember them doing all this same stuff and its how I learned auto,I really appreciate them Mustie1.
Vinegar has treated me well lately when cleaning out Puch tanks. However, those frame tanks are always a pain..... Welcome to the "Puch life". Great video so far!!
Ha ha ha i love to see this series!! 30 years ago i was doing the same things with these Puch bikes as well.. Jus that whe put 80cc cilinders on it and 17mm Bing carburettors. So two - three months later you had to do the swingarm, because it could not take the power of the 80cc and the swingarm was bent towards the sprocket-side. I've seen bikes like that with the wheels 4inches out of alignment…. Whe took the swingarm from a Zundapp bike and modified that to fit in the frame cause they could take up to 250cc...… When you got to work with the new carburettor i wold like to yell at you to grind of the lead ball at the end of the cable next shot you did!!! :-) ;-) :-D So deja vu!!! :-) :-) :-)
Ah memories had one in high school in the 80’s until it was stolen it was awesome to get to school, from what I remember Garelli I think had one of the fastest mopeds back then which topped out somewhere in 50’s mph.
Hey Mustie1!!! Once U took that air cleaner off, it really took off, one has to love the clone carbs, only issue is that the modern gasoline seems to make them plug up quicker, maybe as a 2cycle, the oil will help...
Watching u put that carb back together, I was thinking to myself "he must have practiced that before he turned on the camera" cause you looked like you could have used a few extra fingers if not a whole hand. Love your videos, I'm 60 and I'm learning lots as I always found small engines frustrating to work on, keep them coming
Great video - fun to see a US model up close. Bigger carb - remove inlet restrictor in cylinder if there and add +2 teeth on front chain gear to limit revs - and it'll run sweet ( cut off 5 mm of each piston winglet for better pick-up and it'll really go ) 30-35 mph easy
Excellent! Quite the creative blind-scouring technique on tank internal. You could still install that carb-cable adjuster rubber boot from the unconnected cable end with some heat-gun-induced pliability.
lol i know its 3 years late but ever consider turning the bike upside down instead when cleaning out the tank ? A 3 inch chimney brush or a sink pipe brush dont cost much either ... love your channel
Wow mustie that didn't sound too bad there good video thanks nice adjustment on the troddle cable back in the day use to have smelt kit with molds to make cable ends really not hard to do can't find them anymore!!
To make the cast ends take 2 pieces of AL clamp together and drill between them for the cable and the end. Clamp the cable in place and melt in some tin solder. I used to crimp on brass ends then splay the wires, solder and trim the end smooth. Use acid flux to ensure adhesion to the steel wire and neutralize the flux when done. The shifter on my scooter used to pull the cast tin or zinc ends off till I learned this. Mike (o\!/o)
I would fill that tank with evapo-rust. The stuff is awesome and is non-toxic. It can be bought on Amazon. I am restoring a car right now and it is truly a life saver for just about any ferrous component. I would fill it up completely and leave it for several days.
Great to see a long-form Mustie-1 video. Just a tip: Your muriatic acid is --uh--an acid Your vinegar is an acid (acetic) To neutralize acids you hit them with a base......a good base is strong baking soda and water. Then just water.
An old school friend had the exact same machine, he in UK land you could ride these at 16, just so long as they were under 50cc & had pedals you were legal, but the machine we all wanted was the Yamaha FS1-E...with expansion pipes that made it sound like a swarm of bees..happy days
Darrin a 50 minute video is fantastic. Just something for your information if you don't already know it there is not a limit of 1 hour on You Tube. I regularly watch videos on other channels that are longer than that and a longer one than this from you would be even better. The Whisperer of Anything Mechanical, anything you touch turns to gold, please keep making these fascinating and interesting videos, far better than anything on television.
Ok its two years ago..... but you not need to break the exhaust restrictor. If you do, the moped make only a lot more noise but not anymore speed. As i can see this is a Austria version with electronic spark timing. Yes, electronic! Some markets had also an electric starter with a Battery and then with bigger drum brakes. Originally from factory to say. The alu wheels had all models. As they where common, Malossi in Italy sold an tuning kit with open intake, a different air filter (drill 2 5mm holes thru the casing horiz. left and right from the mounting bolt at the inside), a hemispehered 3ring piston, bigger crankshaft bearings and a different cylinder head. Because as in Italy this Mopeds where/are road legally with 50 KpH!!
When i worked in firebrick , we used to go to chemical plants and reline the chemical tanks . Sometimes they would drain them to where there was still a foot or so of 98 to 99.9 % pure acid still in tank . Would get in fresh air fed suits , walk in the acid and repair the brick work . Most were Hydrochloric and Sulfuric acid tanks . Was a cool job , in the 15 + years doing it we got to go a lot of places and see a lot of different things made
I have cleaned lots of carburetors in my life. The absolute best, by far, carb cleaner that I have ever found is Simple Green plus water in a heated ultrasonic cleaner. It will be as clean as the day it was built. I have literally been shocked several times by just how well it does. Simple green is $9 a gallon at Sam's Club and it comes with a complimentary filled spray bottle too.
@mustie1 tve restrictor i in the intake on the cylinder. That needs to go if you put on a 15mm Delorto carb and and perfomamce exhaust otherwise itt wont bemefit from the bigger carb. with exhaust you can just bore out the flute in the exhaust
I had a Tomos moped. The gas tank is the same as that one. It was very rusty inside. So I drained the fuel . Then just pored in pickling vinegar left it two days drained that and the tank was bare metal inside. So I added some Por 50 to the tank turned the bike upside down and all around and then just like that it was coated rust free and it ran perfect
You're a great mechanic but on that carburator, yr pilot jet performs from idle to about 1/4 throttle, yr needle with the C -clip performs 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, and yr main jet is for the whole power band , but that controls if yr too rich or too lean, such as when you run wide open for any amount of time if yr going to burn a hole in yr piston or not, is how im going to explain that, i really like yr videos , ive learned a lot on different things, great job...
do you realize how popular you are. You should run for gov of New Hampshire. I really enjoy your vids because your delivery is simple and complete. You are da man. Your camera work is excellent. You could be a cinematographer in Hollywood.
ooohhh a Delorto 15 carburetor , this was my youth. My old peugeot 103 moped with a delorto 15 carb and the zeta 50 cc kit. It was nuts and I drove it like crazy. so good. Ok I crashed and my moped died miserably.
Have you tried using phosphoric acid to clean rust. The phosphoric acid changes the reddish-brown iron(III) oxide, Fe2O3 (rust) to ferric phosphate, FePO4. This phosphate coating is then non reactive and you will not get the surface rusting as soon as you clean the muriatic acid out. Great video, I live seeing these old machines come back to life.
not sure if you know it. but AWESOME house hold cleaner works great as a degreaser. soak parts in it. it's cheap. found at 99 cent stores. or dollar stores. great as engine cleaner.
Phosphoric acid works really really great on rust. (Coca cola contains quite a bit of diluted phosphoric acid. You can soak rusty things in coke). Also you can dilute acid by using water but ALWAYS ALWAYS ADD THE ACID TO THE WATER when you dilute to avoid a really bad reaction. You could have added the acid you had to water and then filled the tank for a slightly diluted acid. Also, to neutralize HCl (hydrochloric acid also called muriatic acid) you can add Sodium Hydroxide (lye or caustic soda). Equal parts of same strength of HCl (hydrochloric acid) and lye (sodium hydroxide), each of which will burn the crap out of you turns into salt water when mixed that you could drink. HCl + NaOH = H2O + NaCL (water plus salt) when mixed. Your videos are so interesting and so entertaining. Thank you for sharing your extensive knowledge and wisdom and your patience for the guys like me that wish we had your talent!!!
Hey Mustie. I am 14 and love your videos and like working on 2 strokes. I want to let you know that there are more ways to add power than a carburetor and an exhaust. Compression is one of the things that can affect power you could probably achieve that by buying a thinner head gasket its not going to give you a massive power increase but should give you about a good .2 or .3 hp. Another idea would be jetting and a less restrictive air filter (you probably wouldn't need to jet it because of the bigger carburetor you bought) but more air, bigger boom, bigger power. Also the more obvious things like bigger bore, stroke, and lightweight forged pistons but you probably wouldn't want to get into things like that because of the "buying and selling for a profit" business wouldn't give you your money back but its just an idea. -Sincerely, Alex :)
Mustie, the main jet is normally considered to control 100% of the fuel mixture from 3/4 throttle to wide open. The needle "jet" is an annular ring inside the main jet tube. So, the needle controls the mixture from 1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle. The pilot jet usually controls the mixture from just above idle to 1/4 throttle. Some of these moped carbs use the idle jet for both idle and pilot work.
That was A belt sander you used on that carburetor slide lead dipped inlet end. That goes down inside of the carburetor. For the slide inside of the carburetor. To move up& down movement motion aswell to drawl fuel through it to run.
Perhaps your could take a few small screws and attach them to the cable you were using to clean the gas tank. Then when you run it in the drill it would scrape around on the inside and break up the crud in the gas tank.
You dont have to use strong acid to clean a tank. Just use vinegar (25% works best, normal vinegar also works just takes longer). Just as you did later. The tank will ne rust free within a night and it wont harm any sealings in most cases, because its not really a strong acid (you can eat it). Also you wont risk damaging the paint too much. After de-rusting just grab a can of WD40 and spray it inside the tank. The oil will stick to the walls and prevent them from rusting again if you dont want to fill it with gas after derusting. Just dont forget to put the cap back on.
Im a bit late to the party but to clarify the issue with the throttle needle position and main jet size, the needle only afects up to 3/4 throttle where the main jet comes into play. That holds true for all carbs really not just your Puch.
To neutrlize acid use either baking soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) or soda ash (Sodium Carbonate) the kind you use for chemical balancing your swimming pool. It's fairly cheap & can be found a Walmart. Warning, it can generate some heat as it works, be careful.
I have been using Lime Away to remove rust from parts. It works miracles and is not as caustic. You can get it at Walmart. I'll bet one or two bottles mixed with water will straighten out that tank.
Hey thats a dam good copy of a bing, i cant tell the difference, except for the odd choke cap. Odd they copied it so well and stoped at the choke. A choke rod swap is the fix :-D The taper pin clip used to be 2nd notch from the top. I used to use a champion L90 plug, keeps clean in two strokes :-)
Just rewatching this and remembered something I forgot to mention last time. Sounds silly but I suspended a bike from the rafters on bungee cords then bounced it around and it totally sloshed everything around very well. Too easy so you may want to try it sometime?
I got one been sitting sence early 80s its a 1980 puch maxi realy rusty tank had a hole 2 inches from the petcock i welded up ended up 1 inch hole but its welded now and used magnet and vacuum to get rust and slag out im useing muratic acid and going red kote line it got new petcock coming for it all new crank bearings and seals to have been put into the motor
l After your done nutrilize the acid residue with water with baking soda in it. It will halt the rusting inside the tank. Otherwise the acid will kind of stay in the mettle and continue to rust it. Done this many times and it perfected acid washing old gas tanks for me.
Oh my! In Europe we are doing things very different. Throttle cables are just to push thru the bigger hole in the carb. piston, and then snap in backward the plumb bolt. First add the reverse spring into the carb, add the top cover, then the cable thru the elbow pipe and at least line up properly the whole cable to the acclelerator grip. At top again thru the elbow pipe then it snaps in - like in the carb - thru a slot in the handle, with a second - adjustable - plumb bolt. Adjust the upper thread screw only unless the cable is under tension! No more no less. You're done!
the second carburetor you got is for a motorized bicycle like the ones you have in your back shed it's a performance carburetor and let me just say this carburetors are awesome you will never have a problem with it
I have a suggestion, don't know if you'll get it, being this video is over a year old. Looking at the wire de-rusting method, untwist the wire strands to about 4inch, and weld it so it doesn't unwind any more. Thread a small nut, M3 or ⅛", and twist and weld the wire, so the nut is loose and free to move, to each strand. That will give the effect of dropping a handful of nuts into a tank and shaking it, to dislodge any rust.
I have that same inspection camera. A cool thing I found is that it uses standard composite video for the camera and by plugging in an adapter, Allows me to hook my game console to it. Gaming on a 2 inch screen is not that great. 50:24 I get that same issue when browsing people's channel pages the "load more" button doesn't work.
When I was 14 years old Dad bought me a Sears moped, a Puch. A whole 50 cc quickly. I am 76 now. I rode it for many years and actually had gotten over 10,000 miles on it. It was a truper! I serviced it myself and honed myself into a decent motorcycle mechanic. I moved over to a Honda 150 & later to a Honda 250 road cruiser.
Lee Klemetti hi lee I had one and it did over 23000 before one of the rings disappeared down the barrel.took it. Apart and removed the bits and it still ran for many more miles although I had to paddle like mad to get it started.loved it and would not think twice before going 100 plus mile journey s on it.tim in uk
Story of my life... but a good one :-)
ss
I love your videos. I'm 15 and love fixing/ working on things with engines. I wish I could do what you do for a living. you rock!
who says you cant,
Justin Holmes almost sounds like me.
life money time if he is 15 he has school not wanting to be mean but
same here
Justin Holmes man I'm 16 and do some stuff not near the extent mustie 1 does but let me just say mustie1 is the reason I started plus having knowledge of this stuff is so helpful and will save you some money don't let anyone tell you you can't do it I haven't and while I don't always have the time or money I still end up getting it done. I even started a TH-cam channel.
To clean rust out of the gas tank of my "Barn Find", 1973 BMW R75/6, I used a product called "Evapo-Rust". It dissolves rust, but does not harm metal. Non-caustic and works like a charm. Two local restorers have now used it with perfect results. Best rust remover with no mess.
Hand Tool Rescue would approve.
Growing up my dad taught me a ton about working on small engines and cars and trucks…it was awesome knowledge and time spent together…I just wish he was a chill as you while we were working on stuff. 90 percent of his vocab was swearing and the other 10 was “hand me the channel locks”. Thanks for the content it is awesome!!
Hi from over the pond . As an old grease rag myself i like seeing someone teaching others how to fix their own petrol engines, as some one that loves to work on smaller engines you have given me lot's of enjoyment in watching your Video's
I’m enjoying this. I have a 1961 NSU Quickly, and have taken apart that Bing carburetor a few times. Truly a PIA, getting the throttle cable into the little hole, compressing the spring, making sure nothing flies away. Hands and feet are a help....lol
I had one in the 90’s. IT was a automatic Puch maxi 49cc. The were a lot of this mopeds in the netherlands. Max speed was 45 km ph or , 27 mph
Mustie...I take a handful of 1/4" nuts and bolts and put them in the dirty tank. Put the cap back on and shake the living devil out of it. Sometimes takes two-three times to clean the tank. Best system I ever used. Good Luck.
Good luck with that one.
50min Mustie1 videos bring a tear of joy to my eye..
Lol
Testify, Brother......
agreed!
something in his voice......
Hey Mustie aged 16 in the UK in the very early 70,s l had the Puch MS 50D very similar to that one, this take,s me down memory lane, poped 6times round a sport,s running track with the front wheel in the air. Oh what fun back then. Great view and projects, a Man and his shed/garage is a force to behold.
Sadly I had a rayleigh runabout........... 39cc of pure muscle...
All these videos have inspired me to take up the craft. Im buying my first motorcycle next month, a book to guide me through maintenance, and later maybe some old bikes to get running again.
Ah.....that sound brings back memories of when I was a kid, we had 2 stroke boat motors and would get up early and go for a long boat ride to the fishing hole and that sound and smell of the gas/oil mix.
If you will fill the tank with white vinegar, it will eat the rust, and you can flush it out and have a clean tank. OK once again you prove how well you know what you are doing. Another excellent video.
Hi Mustie 1 I'm 67 this month retired now but still working on projects and love to see your videos you inspire us all and iv learnt allot from you in all your rebuilds I live over the pond as they say in the Uk England all the very best Colin
Thanks for another great video ! Looks like you will have a good survivor moped soon. I do have two comments, though. 1) I noticed that the new petcock has a long,curved inlet tube and the remains of the tube on the old unit was not as long. I suspect that the old tube may have broken off inside the fuel tank and a piece of it may still be inside. You may want to check for that before installing the new petcock ( you may have already surmised this ). 2) This comment is not directed to you, Mustie ( I did notice that you wore proper apparel ), but to any of your followers who are not experienced with using Muriatic Acid ( or any other kinds of corrosive acids ). Extreme caution should be exercised when handling acids. Muriatic Acid IS highly corrosive ! Proper protective gear ( rubber gloves, eye protection, etc. ) should be worn when handling these products . I am a Journeyman Mason ( Bricklayer ) with 30+ years of experience and have handled Masonry Cleaning Acids extensively. Muriatic Acid will eat a hole in one`s skin, clothes, etc. The vapors will affect one`s oral/nasal passages, etc. - use of filtered breathing masks is recommended as well as proper ventilation. Always have access to a plentiful water supply ( faucet,water taps, etc. ) and thoroughly rinse/saturate any skin/body parts, surfaces,clothing, etc. with water ( seek medical help if necessary ).
Just words of caution to all.
I am looking forward to Part B !
Great series on the Puch. A buddy and I put thousands of miles on a pair of Puch mopeds when I was 15 back in 1973. The little beasties got about 180 mpg. We toured all over the province of Ontario in Canada. For de-rusting I prefer phosphoric acid. It just eats the rust. it will not attack good steel. Same stuff that is in Coca Cola, you know "If Coke eats the rust off of a rusty nail think what it is doing to your stomach" statement your mom used to say every time you wanted a coke. You could leave phosphoric acid in the tank for weeks and it will not eat the steel. Much safer than hydrochloric acid. Also for mopeds you should check out Treatland they sell all kinds of cool moped goodies and engine mods.
Thanks Musstie for doing a moped series. I am a big fan of yours. I like how you explain everything. There is no annoying music in the background. There are very few moped vids. Thanks.
" ITS GONNA NEED AN ACID TRIP " LOLOLOL ! HAHAHA GOOD STUFF LOL
Good info on the carburetor. I wanted to add that the needle height only affects the mixture during part throttle. At full or near full throttle the needle is all the way out of the emulsion tube and only the size of the main jet affects mixture.
Excellent Video young man
For a smaller cheap bore scope they sell mini bore cameras that work on you cell phone they run about 15 bucks on amazon
since your didn't fit into that tank FYI AND PS lov your videos!! keep um up!! thnx for sharing your enjoyment with us
I have bought Puch all my live and had about a 1000 of them,i still drive 2 A Puch maxi II Racing Two speed 50 KMH 1982 and a Puch korado automatic 25 KMH 1992. I love Puch from Steyer-Daimler the real ones from Austria.
Really great exposition about the carb. You are the best at explanations.
Old mechanics never die they just lose their "torque". I have sat here now for about 15 minutes watching Mustie1 pick out an old gasket from a petcock and I find it much more interesting than anything I have ever seen on TikTock or any other social media platform.
very easy mopeds to work on. had one in the past and was a blast driving! my throttle froze while driving in the snow back in the day ..that wasnt so much fun haha. the moped i had was standing outside for 5 years and full of water. We removed all the water. cleaned the carb. filled the block with oil ..and withing 5m of running the thing ran hahaha
Pure brilliance using an old cable to clean out the tank. You, sir, are quite clever.
the muriatic acid trick was taught to me by my father and grandfather , brings back a ton of memories I remember them doing all this same stuff and its how I learned auto,I really appreciate them Mustie1.
Vinegar has treated me well lately when cleaning out Puch tanks. However, those frame tanks are always a pain..... Welcome to the "Puch life". Great video so far!!
I run a 15/15 mm Dellorto carburator on my Tomos A35(2speed automatic moped) runs good, plenty of power.
Great practical vids on bringing to life old machines . Well done and thanks
Ha ha ha i love to see this series!! 30 years ago i was doing the same things with these Puch bikes as well.. Jus that whe put 80cc cilinders on it and 17mm Bing carburettors. So two - three months later you had to do the swingarm, because it could not take the power of the 80cc and the swingarm was bent towards the sprocket-side. I've seen bikes like that with the wheels 4inches out of alignment…. Whe took the swingarm from a Zundapp bike and modified that to fit in the frame cause they could take up to 250cc...… When you got to work with the new carburettor i wold like to yell at you to grind of the lead ball at the end of the cable next shot you did!!! :-) ;-) :-D So deja vu!!! :-) :-) :-)
Ah memories had one in high school in the 80’s until it was stolen it was awesome to get to school, from what I remember Garelli I think had one of the fastest mopeds back then which topped out somewhere in 50’s mph.
I enjoy seeing you in the beginning when you didn't even have your own pressure washer.
I'm trying to figure out if there's anything Mustie can't fix....you are awesome 👏
Killed a lot of my Saturday afternoon watching your series. Just couldn't stop. Very interesting. Excellent HD picture quality. Thanks, Mustie1!
awesome video mustie1 as allways thwe content rocks keep on wrenching
my 77 columbia commuter had the same bing carb but it was square lining up the slide and spring was a huge PITA. nice job!
Hey Mustie1!!! Once U took that air cleaner off, it really took off, one has to love the clone carbs, only issue is that the modern gasoline seems to make them plug up quicker, maybe as a 2cycle, the oil will help...
Watching u put that carb back together, I was thinking to myself "he must have practiced that before he turned on the camera" cause you looked like you could have used a few extra fingers if not a whole hand. Love your videos, I'm 60 and I'm learning lots as I always found small engines frustrating to work on, keep them coming
love watching your vids. These mopeds were pretty bomb proof. i had the puch vz50 as a kid.
Great video - fun to see a US model up close. Bigger carb - remove inlet restrictor in cylinder if there and add +2 teeth on front chain gear to limit revs - and it'll run sweet ( cut off 5 mm of each piston winglet for better pick-up and it'll really go ) 30-35 mph easy
Excellent! Quite the creative blind-scouring technique on tank internal. You could still install that carb-cable adjuster rubber boot from the unconnected cable end with some heat-gun-induced pliability.
26:53 my cat looked up to see this coming at us....... I almost lost my monitor! lol then she just watched every move you made
Looks like the Juiced Hyper Scrambler that I just bought. Resemblance is unmistakable but the Scorpion is electric.
As soon as you took off the filter it really sounded much more better. Copper pipe elbow and a small K&N filter and you are off to the races!!
Nice work! Definetly enjoyable and interesting to watch, as are all of your videos! Hope the gas tank cleans up well for you!
This and some Lord Hobo boom sauce on a snowy night! Happy camper here. Good work man. Protect those eyes!
lol i know its 3 years late but ever consider turning the bike upside down instead when cleaning out the tank ?
A 3 inch chimney brush or a sink pipe brush dont cost much either ...
love your channel
Wow mustie that didn't sound too bad there good video thanks nice adjustment on the troddle cable back in the day use to have smelt kit with molds to make cable ends really not hard to do can't find them anymore!!
To make the cast ends take 2 pieces of AL clamp together and drill
between them for the cable and the end. Clamp the cable in place and
melt in some tin solder. I used to crimp on brass ends then splay the wires, solder and trim the end smooth. Use acid flux to ensure adhesion to the steel wire and neutralize the flux when done. The shifter on my scooter used to pull the cast tin or zinc ends off till I learned this.
Mike (o\!/o)
I like the decal that says not to use unleaded gasoline.
I love your videos. I have been watching for 2 years thanks for all the awesome videos.
I remember this moped in middle school, in 1976. It was one of the more popular and faster brands. Its sounds just like I remember.
clean and Evaporust!!! for that tank, no post rusting like acid causes....
I would fill that tank with evapo-rust. The stuff is awesome and is non-toxic. It can be bought on Amazon. I am restoring a car right now and it is truly a life saver for just about any ferrous component. I would fill it up completely and leave it for several days.
Great to see a long-form Mustie-1 video.
Just a tip:
Your muriatic acid is --uh--an acid
Your vinegar is an acid (acetic)
To neutralize acids you hit them with a base......a good base is strong baking soda and water. Then just water.
it was not clean yet thats why l filled it with the vinegar too keep it going, later vids will show what l ended up dong
An old school friend had the exact same machine, he in UK land you could ride these at 16, just so long as they were under 50cc & had pedals you were legal, but the machine we all wanted was the Yamaha FS1-E...with expansion pipes that made it sound like a swarm of bees..happy days
Great to see another new video Darren. Keep up the great video's &Work.
L A awesome cleaner from the dollar store will clean carbs and parts quickly amazing stuff
Darrin a 50 minute video is fantastic.
Just something for your information if you don't already know it there is not a limit of 1 hour on You Tube. I regularly watch videos on other channels that are longer than that and a longer one than this from you would be even better.
The Whisperer of Anything Mechanical, anything you touch turns to gold, please keep making these fascinating and interesting videos, far better than anything on television.
Mustie strikes again! super job. waiting for part deux.
Ok its two years ago..... but you not need to break the exhaust restrictor. If you do, the moped make only a lot more noise but not anymore speed. As i can see this is a Austria version with electronic spark timing. Yes, electronic! Some markets had also an electric starter with a Battery and then with bigger drum brakes. Originally from factory to say. The alu wheels had all models.
As they where common, Malossi in Italy sold an tuning kit with open intake, a different air filter (drill 2 5mm holes thru the casing horiz. left and right from the mounting bolt at the inside), a hemispehered 3ring piston, bigger crankshaft bearings and a different cylinder head. Because as in Italy this Mopeds where/are road legally with 50 KpH!!
When i worked in firebrick , we used to go to chemical plants and reline the chemical tanks . Sometimes they would drain them to where there was still a foot or so of 98 to 99.9 % pure acid still in tank . Would get in fresh air fed suits , walk in the acid and repair the brick work . Most were Hydrochloric and Sulfuric acid tanks . Was a cool job , in the 15 + years doing it we got to go a lot of places and see a lot of different things made
evaporust works excellent and is harmless to skin and reusable,you should try it nice work by the way
Best option really + simple fuel line filter
I have cleaned lots of carburetors in my life. The absolute best, by far, carb cleaner that I have ever found is Simple Green plus water in a heated ultrasonic cleaner. It will be as clean as the day it was built. I have literally been shocked several times by just how well it does. Simple green is $9 a gallon at Sam's Club and it comes with a complimentary filled spray bottle too.
What a compliment from those young guys below - a tribute to you, congrats, and correct in my opinion by the way
I think sitting down with the manual for a good read would have been a good idea from the start.
@mustie1 tve restrictor i in the intake on the cylinder.
That needs to go if you put on a 15mm Delorto carb and and perfomamce exhaust otherwise itt wont bemefit from the bigger carb.
with exhaust you can just bore out the flute in the exhaust
I had a Tomos moped. The gas tank is the same as that one. It was very rusty inside. So I drained the fuel . Then just pored in pickling vinegar left it two days drained that and the tank was bare metal inside. So I added some Por 50 to the tank turned the bike upside down and all around and then just like that it was coated rust free and it ran perfect
You're a great mechanic but on that carburator, yr pilot jet performs from idle to about 1/4 throttle, yr needle with the C -clip performs 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, and yr main jet is for the whole power band , but that controls if yr too rich or too lean, such as when you run wide open for any amount of time if yr going to burn a hole in yr piston or not, is how im going to explain that, i really like yr videos , ive learned a lot on different things, great job...
do you realize how popular you are. You should run for gov of New Hampshire. I really enjoy your vids because your delivery is simple and complete. You are da man. Your camera work is excellent. You could be a cinematographer in Hollywood.
ooohhh a Delorto 15 carburetor , this was my youth. My old peugeot 103 moped with a delorto 15 carb and the zeta 50 cc kit. It was nuts and I drove it like crazy. so good. Ok I crashed and my moped died miserably.
Have you tried using phosphoric acid to clean rust. The phosphoric acid changes the reddish-brown iron(III) oxide, Fe2O3 (rust) to ferric phosphate, FePO4. This phosphate coating is then non reactive and you will not get the surface rusting as soon as you clean the muriatic acid out. Great video, I live seeing these old machines come back to life.
Thank you for the vids! You show a lot of great info.
not sure if you know it. but AWESOME house hold cleaner works great as a degreaser. soak parts in it. it's cheap. found at 99 cent stores. or dollar stores. great as engine cleaner.
Phosphoric acid works really really great on rust. (Coca cola contains quite a bit of diluted phosphoric acid. You can soak rusty things in coke). Also you can dilute acid by using water but ALWAYS ALWAYS ADD THE ACID TO THE WATER when you dilute to avoid a really bad reaction. You could have added the acid you had to water and then filled the tank for a slightly diluted acid. Also, to neutralize HCl (hydrochloric acid also called muriatic acid) you can add Sodium Hydroxide (lye or caustic soda). Equal parts of same strength of HCl (hydrochloric acid) and lye (sodium hydroxide), each of which will burn the crap out of you turns into salt water when mixed that you could drink. HCl + NaOH = H2O + NaCL (water plus salt) when mixed. Your videos are so interesting and so entertaining. Thank you for sharing your extensive knowledge and wisdom and your patience for the guys like me that wish we had your talent!!!
awesome your bringing it back to life....robert
You should find an Indian chief moped and fix it up keeping with the Indian motorcycles tradition.Great video!
Hey Mustie. I am 14 and love your videos and like working on 2 strokes. I want to let you know that there are more ways to add power than a carburetor and an exhaust. Compression is one of the things that can affect power you could probably achieve that by buying a thinner head gasket its not going to give you a massive power increase but should give you about a good .2 or .3 hp. Another idea would be jetting and a less restrictive air filter (you probably wouldn't need to jet it because of the bigger carburetor you bought) but more air, bigger boom, bigger power. Also the more obvious things like bigger bore, stroke, and lightweight forged pistons but you probably wouldn't want to get into things like that because of the "buying and selling for a profit" business wouldn't give you your money back but its just an idea.
-Sincerely, Alex :)
Alexander Hill shave the head kid
Keep up the good work my friend
I like the video
Had same exact moped back in late 70's - mid 80's.
Also had Puch cobra, couple General 5 stars and the best and fastest stock moped a Peguet TSM. That SOB would hit 52 mph!
Mustie, the main jet is normally considered to control 100% of the fuel mixture from 3/4 throttle to wide open. The needle "jet" is an annular ring inside the main jet tube. So, the needle controls the mixture from 1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle. The pilot jet usually controls the mixture from just above idle to 1/4 throttle. Some of these moped carbs use the idle jet for both idle and pilot work.
ahhh the joys of carb building and tuning
really enjoy your videos excellent content!
My kind of video . . . . thanks a bunch for sharing . . . ;) Rog
That was A belt sander you used on that carburetor slide lead dipped inlet end. That goes down inside of the carburetor. For the slide inside of the carburetor. To move up& down movement motion aswell to drawl fuel through it to run.
Perhaps your could take a few small screws and attach them to the cable you were using to clean the gas tank. Then when you run it in the drill it would scrape around on the inside and break up the crud in the gas tank.
You dont have to use strong acid to clean a tank. Just use vinegar (25% works best, normal vinegar also works just takes longer). Just as you did later. The tank will ne rust free within a night and it wont harm any sealings in most cases, because its not really a strong acid (you can eat it). Also you wont risk damaging the paint too much.
After de-rusting just grab a can of WD40 and spray it inside the tank. The oil will stick to the walls and prevent them from rusting again if you dont want to fill it with gas after derusting. Just dont forget to put the cap back on.
Im a bit late to the party but to clarify the issue with the throttle needle position and main jet size, the needle only afects up to 3/4 throttle where the main jet comes into play. That holds true for all carbs really not just your Puch.
To neutrlize acid use either baking soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) or soda ash (Sodium Carbonate) the kind you use for chemical balancing your swimming pool. It's fairly cheap & can be found a Walmart.
Warning, it can generate some heat as it works, be careful.
Ha Ha! I live in the U.K. And I had one of these when I was a kid.
I have been using Lime Away to remove rust from parts. It works miracles and is not as caustic. You can get it at Walmart. I'll bet one or two bottles mixed with water will straighten out that tank.
Hey thats a dam good copy of a bing, i cant tell the difference, except for the odd choke cap.
Odd they copied it so well and stoped at the choke.
A choke rod swap is the fix :-D
The taper pin clip used to be 2nd notch from the top.
I used to use a champion L90 plug, keeps clean in two strokes :-)
Just rewatching this and remembered something I forgot to mention last time. Sounds silly but I suspended a bike from the rafters on bungee cords then bounced it around and it totally sloshed everything around very well. Too easy so you may want to try it sometime?
I got one been sitting sence early 80s its a 1980 puch maxi realy rusty tank had a hole 2 inches from the petcock i welded up ended up 1 inch hole but its welded now and used magnet and vacuum to get rust and slag out im useing muratic acid and going red kote line it got new petcock coming for it all new crank bearings and seals to have been put into the motor
l After your done nutrilize the acid residue with water with baking soda in it. It will halt the rusting inside the tank. Otherwise the acid will kind of stay in the mettle and continue to rust it. Done this many times and it perfected acid washing old gas tanks for me.
Oh my! In Europe we are doing things very different.
Throttle cables are just to push thru the bigger hole in the carb. piston, and then snap in backward the plumb bolt. First add the reverse spring into the carb, add the top cover, then the cable thru the elbow pipe and at least line up properly the whole cable to the acclelerator grip. At top again thru the elbow pipe then it snaps in - like in the carb - thru a slot in the handle, with a second - adjustable - plumb bolt. Adjust the upper thread screw only unless the cable is under tension! No more no less.
You're done!
Thanks for all your info!
the second carburetor you got is for a motorized bicycle like the ones you have in your back shed it's a performance carburetor and let me just say this carburetors are awesome you will never have a problem with it
I have a suggestion, don't know if you'll get it, being this video is over a year old.
Looking at the wire de-rusting method, untwist the wire strands to about 4inch, and weld it so it doesn't unwind any more.
Thread a small nut, M3 or ⅛", and twist and weld the wire, so the nut is loose and free to move, to each strand.
That will give the effect of dropping a handful of nuts into a tank and shaking it, to dislodge any rust.
I have that same inspection camera. A cool thing I found is that it uses standard composite video for the camera and by plugging in an adapter, Allows me to hook my game console to it. Gaming on a 2 inch screen is not that great.
50:24 I get that same issue when browsing people's channel pages the "load more" button doesn't work.