Repairing and Soldering an ATE Teves Mk60 ABS Brake Control Module from a 🚗 2001 BMW MINI One R50 🚗
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video I attempt to repair my ATE ABS Control Module from my 2001 MINI R50. I separate the Pump Motor, hydraulic unit and electronic Control Module. I then open the unit and find the
⬇️💥⬇️ Links Below & Donations ⬇️💥⬇️ pins of the connector block are just push fit so solder them all in the hope this will repair my 5DF5 error code.
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⬇️Timecodes
00:00 Introduction
01:00 Removing the ABS Bracket
01:38 Viewing the ABS Module on my wife's rotating cake stand
02:05 Separating the Pump, Hydraulic Unit and Control Module
04:38 Preparing to test the Pump Motor
05:13 Using a Test Probe to find ground on the ABS connector
07:26 Actual Pump Test
08:06 Removing the Control Panel Cover
10:36 Onto the Soldering
13:32 Testing Pump Connectors
14:32 Resealing the ABS Control Module
17:02 Reference Photographs
19:56 Credits
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Disclaimer:
This video only contains tips and my personal methods that could be helpful when carrying out home car repairs or replacing parts. Coats & Gaiters is not liable for any harm, injury or property damage incurred while carrying out such repairs or replacements, that are a result of incorrect use or misinterpretation of the provided information. This video is for informational purposes only and does not guarantee achievement of a specific result. The user is personally liable for incorrect use of repair equipment, tools or car parts, in particular, when this use poses the risk of injury. Coats & Gaiters strongly advises taking personal care and adhering to all safety rules when doing any repair or replacement. The use on inferior or low quality vehicle parts does not guarantee the proper level of road safety.
#brakes #abs #ate
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Can you tell some more,because my cousin chevrolet car didn't happened brake fluids comes out from brake caliper bleeder in left side of the front & rear ,it is only in the right side of the front &rear breaks only ,it is maybe condemed the pipes hoses or may the abs module problem?
Your channel is so underated! It's beyond standart mechanic skills. Thanks.
Thank you so kindly Karim, enjoy your weekend.
@@CoatsandGaiters Thanks and You too.
standard mechanic skills include complex electrical diagnosis. its 90% of what a technician does
Thank-you for such a detailed video covering better information than the design engineer could.
Thank you for that. I do try my best.
Thank you for posting this informative video on the abs brake system. I learnt a lot by watching it.👍
That’s great news. Hope it helps.
After disconnecting the wheel sensors and confirming the resistance of both the sensor and into the control module, I added a drop of ATF on the female connector and slid it on/off the wheel connector several times. The wiping action cleans the contacts. ATF does not evaporate and prevents corrosion. A road test at >60K/H with lots of hard braking, confirmed my brakes to be back to normal. Got to do the simple stuff first. Thanks for your video.
Well done and that’s interesting to hear how you solved things. Hadn’t heard of that before.
proper solid thinking .. My ABS issues were mechanical on or more of the Valves had jammed .. i seated / pushed back the pistons without opening the bleed nipples . Seemingly a no no with ABS systems .. imagining the solenoid / valve functions I decided to warm up the valve body in a cardboard box /hot air gun oven . Once nice an warm / hot ish the aluminium valve module was lightly tapped all around to shake loose any stuck valves .. It worked I now have a normal pedal and there is excellent braking performance . To be on the safe side I used m y Foxwell NT630 -Plus scan tool to do a full brake flush and bleed .to hopefully remove any contaminates hiding in the system .
Thank you for that information Richard, worth bearing this in mind.
Your demonstration skills wow 🤩
Thank you
Hello, your content is very nice and healthy, I am writing to you from Turkey, especially your testing method satisfied me and showed the way for those who deal with tools like me, thank you again.
🙏
Thank you kindly for the comment. Hi to Turkey from the UK.
Good job. Excellent work.
Thank you for the comment. Sadly I think there was more wrong with it other than just the connections.
Such a well detailed explanation on how to do the fixing . Many thaks keep giving us more.
Thank you
Hi
Thank you for sharing amazing video about ABS system
Hope it helped
Thanks. Understand the similar setup in the Volvo I'm working on now.
Glad it’s helping a bit.
Thanks you. Nice Video
Thank you
tremendously great video. my 2007 volvo s40 gives me ABS service required. I tested everything from sensors, wires and the pump. all good except my mechanics told me it could be the BCM is faulty. I have heard that volvo BCM have the same joint design at the video. no soldering!
Thank you for the compliment and hope the video helps you.
Thank you.
Very good
Thank you
Nice job, very helpful. I do have a question. Do you know if the brake fluid pressure sensor is in there somewhere. I have read it is in this module.
I believe there is “We find that 99% of the time, when there is a brake pressure sensor fault, it is the small micro wires within that need replacing. This can be extremely difficult as the wires are barely visible to the naked eye,”
@Coats and Gaiters What a wonderfull video! I have noticed that my abs is not showing any warning on the dashboard but the thing is that the rear right side of the car is not pumping the brake fluid from the abs module. What could it be the issue? any tips are welcomed!
Thank you. Possibly air in the system. Fluid should be flushed every 2 years with new.
Just wondering what was the outcome of the abs job .on the mini. About to try it . Normally I would just get part sent. But this makes it more interesting.
Regards Patrick
Sadly it didn't resolve so the fine wires might have broken to the sensor in the module. I might take it apart totally soon.
Very very good video! Great job! Can you tell me where the break pressure sensor is located in this ABS Control Module?
Not totally sure but I think it's normally between the two larger towers. This link might help. www.actronics.co.uk/acinsights/ate-mk60
Hello, did somebody do this with ESP MK25? Focus mk1 should have it, especially ST170.
Good video.
Need to try on my Renault Trafic have a brake fault message
Thank you
Great instructional video, i have a similar looking module on my 2006 CRV and it appears the Hydraulic unit is not working. I don”t have any lights/codes displayed on the dash or on my scanner. Normally you should be able to bleed the system manually but the port that services my left rear brake does not work. All the other ports bleed brake fluid when the brake pedal is applied. Any ideas? Thanks in advanced.
Thank you for the comment. Sometimes you can get a rubber hose that collapses inside and causes the fluid to not pass or pass in one way but not the other locking up the wheel. Might be worth checking the rubber hose first.
Yep, looked into that. I know it was the hydraulic unit because I disconnected the line going to my driver’s rear brake and it did not bleed. I disconnected the passenger rear brake line, again from the hydraulic unit and brake fluid was flowing nicely. What I did to fix the issue was to buy a used part, my fingers crossed, and replace it. Unfortunately, it threw VSA codes. So plan B was initiated, to disassemble it per your video and swap the hydraulic unit only. Hooked up all the lines, bled it and everything worked. A new part was out of the question because of the price. I was weary sending in my entire VSA unit to a web site that repairs these units, solely because I think they repair deals only with the electrical unit itself. I would be sent back with an unrepairable status. Needless to say I was wondering if you know how to repair a hydraulic unit? Cannot find anything on the web, youtube, etc. I don’t even think anyone sells these units as separate parts new. Again thanks in advance.
@@CarlosM-gz7ec Oh I see what you mean now. I'd expect the drill holes would be sealed up permanently after making the channels. Really I could do with stripping one completely for my channel.
Well, I looked at it for a while, like a “pig looking at a wristwatch”, that is when I decided to purchase a used one. Actually, two, the first one did not bleed from the opposite rear brake, didn’t know these mechanical units could fail, with the second one, brake fluid flowed from every brake bore, success. I am not a pro mechanic by any means but I have change tank fuel pumps, brakes, rotors, calipers, replaced read diff with a limited slip, exhaust manifolds, water pumps, alternators, etc. and do watch a lot of TH-cam to help with any issues, it is a great resource. I just probably don’t have have the specialty tool(s) . I will be looking forward to that video, good luck and thanks
@@CarlosM-gz7ec There is some pleasure to be gained by mending things yourself and at least you know what's been done or not. I think I just enjoy using tools lol
Helped this pins soldering?
I have 5df5 issue
Great description but did the ABS module work after soldering and did it solve your problem?
Sadly not, I can only assume the wires to the sensor are damaged and they are as fine as a human hair.
I'm struggling with the ABS module on Focus RS Mk2. Testing the voltage at the sensor plugs, 2 are failing with 9v, two are ok reading 12v. Would you suspect the ABS module itself? The wiring is ok, we tested 12v through the harness.
They are known to fail due to the push connections inside, which is why soldering them can sometimes do the trick. Good luck. Worth a punt if you have nothing to loose.
Is there any possibility sensors to be checked directly from the connector that goes on the abs control unit? I have to disassemble a lot of things, in order to reach the connector plugs, I don;t want to do that.
If you have a diagnostic reader, some of them allow you to see the signal from the wheel sensor. Really to check the sensors individually you'd need that as they create a waveform when turning which can be seen using an oscilloscope.
Most abs pump repair vids would bore a hole into a rockinghorses backside - your one doesn't.
Subbed. :-) For added "Investigating borked electric stuff" fun - get a microscope. Beats using a magnifying guffy hands down.
Thank you. I do keep looking for microscopes but they are damned expensive. I keep watching ebay
Hi wondering if you can help me i've got no power going to my front abs sensors , I've tested the wires and new sensors, I've opened the abs module and can't see any bad solder , do u know which parts on the circuit board powers the sensors so I can investigate further? Thankyou
I'm not sure they use power. I think they are resistive. To test correctly would require a oscilloscope to see the waveform as the wheel rotates. th-cam.com/video/Zw28kGsJ_ZY/w-d-xo.html
Nice vidéo as always.. just a little suggestion.. 1. What was issue with abs unit? Code ects...2..did.it.work? All the best my friend.
Thank you I had a 5DF5 error code. Tried soldering but it didn't resolve as far as I know. Diagnostic tool went west so cannot read codes now lol
@@CoatsandGaiters thanks for the reply
want to access the electric motor so that I can energize it bypassing the control module while it is disconnected from the battery when towing vehicle behind motorhome. Looks like easiest way is to go through the metal motor housing to the brush contacts. When the motor is energized with out the ABS controller the brakes should be applied. WHY? I can use the ABS braking system as a "breakaway" braking system that can be activated by a simple inexpensive "breakaway" switch. Looks like when the power is removed from the motor then the brakes return to normal operation. One of my concerns is which pole is switched? the positive or negative? Guessing here, from your pix at the end, the side connected to the switching transistor would seem to me to be the positive? Right? I can't identify the 2 small boxes on the other side. What do you think? will it work?
Sadly I think this area is way outside my ability to answer with any useful answer. I think you might need to speak to an auto electrician that really knows their subject. Sadly I'm not that guy. Like your thinking though, let us know if you crack it.
Hi, pls what are the 5 things to be checked before replacing the ABS computer?
Hi, can you explain a bit more please? 5?
Hi, sr. please help me. i have a BMW e46 2001 2.8i, if i remove only the motor / ABS-ASC Module, is possible leak or spill brake fluid?? Tks. and have a nice day Sr. PURA VIDA FROM COSTA RICA. CA
Yes you can remove the motor and electronic control part without leaks.
Can you not get the control module off without disconnecting the pipes ?
I believe you can. I just removed it all for the video.
Very useful video, not come across this channel before, subscribed. I have a similar problem on my E39, if anyone reads this do you know if it's possible to just remove the electronic control box without disturbing or disconnecting the brake pipes?
Ah, I've just seen that this didn't work. Shame I thought I'd hit on relatively easy fix and avoid the cost of a replacement.
Yes you can remove just the control box.
There can be many issues so it's still worth a try, it may not have worked for me but it might for you Andy.
What parts or processors caused the dtc U3000 on ford fiesta MK7, 1.6 L petrol?
Sorry I wouldn't know.
Hi do you know if it must be the Same Partnumber for retrofit? In my mini r50 2001 I have the number 6757063 but it is very hard to find…can I get an alternative? Best wishes from germany
They are coded to the vehicle and programmed. It may work, just may not work exactly to spec. Different models may be programmed to react in different ways depending on equipment fitted.
Would you tell me where to buy this magnifying glass you use please? The one on the desk
It's the Daylight D25181 Quadra UV & LED magnifier
@@CoatsandGaiters thank you
Nice
Thank you.
Sir how to check abs sensor
And how to check lexus es 350 trunk not open push button type switch no problem
@@lancebalaguer1522 This might help th-cam.com/video/Zw28kGsJ_ZY/w-d-xo.html
@@lancebalaguer1522 Can't really help on that one I'm afraid.
United Kingdom and other places with similar weather! Beware, on 17 yr old XKR the controller was corroded onto the hydraulic module and separating it pulled one of the solenoids out of the module rendering it unrepairable.
Oooh thanks for that, British weather for you. Was yours in a MINI?
Hi there, Thank for good video. Is it possible to operate ABS module with only one speed sensor? Actually, I am a student and want to present the ABS operation with single tire and break assembly using single speed sensor.
Thank you, I think the ECU requires all 4 sensors as it uses all 4 to decide if wheels are locking up and which wheels to release or slow.
Thank You for consideration. Is it possible to provide ECU with four inputs from single sensor, i mean can we divide output from single sensor to satisfy ECU requirement for four sensors?
@@livetech4062 Your probably better asking an auto electrician as I'm just a home mechanic. Sorry.
@@CoatsandGaiters Thank You so much. You are great, stay blessed.
I have replace abs unit for my car santa fe 2007, 2.7, 4WD, EPS, abs type s/w 60303 ver 0204. And bleed air from wheels. The problem. Is clunk sound Inside abs unit when press break at low speed. No signal abs light, the abs working good as break, the problem only the clunk sound. So please could you advice me how solve this problem.
Thank you very much for your help.
Have you managed to bleed the air out as you need to use a diagnostic tool to do this. Or rag the car around a car park braking heavily to activate the abs to clear any air out.
Permatex ultra--black is sensor and electronics safe but other brands may not be. Some silicone sealants will generate acetic acid while they dry and over time this will cause corrosion on surrounding metals, so be careful and be sure to use something listed as sensor safe.
Thank you for that, I never knew about acetic acid in sealants. Worth knowing. Thank you
@@CoatsandGaiters No problem. Best way to know for sure is to let a bit of it dry on a screw driver or pencil and if it smells like vinegar at any point while coming out of the tube or while drying then it is not sensor safe.
@@10100rsn I know the smell you mean now. Very strong and pungent isn't it.
@@CoatsandGaiters Black weather strip adhesive also works great for sealing up abs modules like this ,dries hard just like the plastic.
Thank you for the heads up. Never used it so never knew about it. @@mikealkarout9555
Does anybody know after all that did the Brake Module work to clear the dashboard lights?
No !!!! I expect the sensor wire had snapped and they are finer than human hair.
Great Video! How did you solve the problem?
Thank you. I bought a second hand one off eBay as I presume the sensor wires had failed inside.
@@CoatsandGaiters Thanks.I'm having the same problem. Pressure sensor wires you mean? ABS sensor cables can be meassured at the plug? The four pairs of them have aprox the same resistance in my case. Thanks for reply. Unfortunatelly electrician mechanics diagnose was just replace module, but I'm trying to check other possibilities before I get another used unit!
Thing is a second hand unit ca be really cheap on ebay now. You can just change the electrical side and leave the pipe work undisturbed.@@lsp5745
@@CoatsandGaiters will try that next week! thanks for helpfull video
Not sure soldering those pins is a good idea. I believe they are put that way on purpose to give the plugs some wiggle room (albite very little). Soldering some of the other components, however, may be your answer! It is called reflowing the solder points. Sometimes, hard to see cracks develop in the soldering and cause malfunction. A bit tedious, but it is your best bet. Also, sometimes, just cleaning the electric plugs and contact points will get you going (due to a dirty connection). Good luck!
I was thinking they are made that way for speed of manufacture and to keep costs down. Soldering each pin would probably add considerably to the costs. Soldering can fracture in a vibration heavy zone but then vibration on a rigid circuit board push connector would gradually wear. Sadly it didn't work in the end.
My thoughts were that the pins are square and the corners would cut into any metal that may line the holes forming a gas tight seal similar to "wire wrapping" which can last for decades.
On the other hand, the pins could have been embedded into the housing and doing a "wave solder" on them after installation into the case would be almost impossible so they compromised with a "corner into metal" approach.
Having worked on automotive electronics for decades, modules I took apart in the past had soldered pins but the pins were not embedded into the case. This made them subject to the vibration. I have never seen this to be a cause of failure. Most failures are cold solder joints, especially on power hungry devices such as relays, main power connectors and power transistors.
I'm about to open up an ABS unit from Mazda.
No even rebuilders of abs modules will solder those pins just like he did. The wiggle is what actually makes them fail and lose contact.
I have issue with abs on my mini r50, it give me errors for can comunication and then sometimes and it does that it makes the car slow by braking the car, if you stop and them go lights Will be on but Will stop that braking efect. I am lost on this one.
These units do fail with age. You may be better getting it refurbished or buying a used one off ebay. I bought one off ebay in the end. Just make sure the numbers are exactly the same as they are programmed for the cars.
@@CoatsandGaiters i need to check some more things, because when is wet or raining is when this happen very rare when is sun outside
I found the issue, wiring is rubbing and when water comes in it shorted can lines, very comkon issue for what i search on google
@@fabini14 blimey that’s lucky so should be easy repair
@@CoatsandGaiters not very easy to repair, because is hard to reach the wiring, because it goes behind the dash.
I have a Mercedes Viano that the brake pedal depresses all the way. The brake calipers and master cylinder have been changed twice and it is still the same. Could it be the ABS module, how to check it?
Sounds like air in the system. Have you tried pressure bleeding 1 litre of fresh fluid though.
@@CoatsandGaiters umm, the mechanic purge the system with scanner. Thanks.
@@cransaftvalve734 I wonder how effective it was or did it work. When I changed the mini abs unit the pedal was very soft. I was advised to drive fast around a car park braking hard to activate the abs pump to clear any air.
@@CoatsandGaiters yes it can be possible. I will told him. Thanks.
Great video. DID IT WORK???
I'm asking because I've got the exact same problem, have had the unit out, cut the top off, looked for faults etc. I will try this immediately if it worked for you.
@@iebah1 not got there yet lol tomorrow’s video is reinstalling it and then I need to bleed the system down before trying. I do believe it can be one of a few things. Soldering the connections is only one possible issue apparently.
@@CoatsandGaiters Yes, I agree. I have searched high and low for a diy solution. Some BMW owners seem to think that a little IC with 14 soldering connections is always the problem. I bought some of them from China, but defo need a hot air rework station for that. Good luck!
@@iebah1 I did see that if you change the control unit you have to reprogram the module using an advanced car diagnostic tool or remove the small EEPROM chip and solder into the replacement unit.
Did it work? My ABS Warning comes after reaching 14 mi/h on my mercedes. I have opened the module up and cannot see any loose connection or damage apart from the unsoldered pins. Thinking of solder them and see what happens.
My ABS modul Mazda Biante ia to short...can u repair ?..
I couldn't personally I'm afraid as I'm not an engineer.
My Z4 E89, drive for 5 minutes and abs warning all lights up, obd say everything connected to it failed (it hasn't). Restart resets everything then several minutes later fails again. Then yesterday, tried a restart and car nearly didn't restart, at traffic lights!
Some weeks ago replaced the brake light switch with cheapo of internet. Today hopefully get genuine from BMW and try that.
Got 2nd hand abs on the way, might try swapping the chip. Might first try the above method, seems like a dry joint problem.
Not sure the car not starting would have a connection to the ABS module but then I have limited experience in these things.
@@flybobbie1449 I think it's safer to replace the whole unit as your doing unless you can get it sent to a repair shot where they re condition everything.
how do the professional rebuilders open them without cutting?
They may use a hot wire maybe but they will seal them correctly with ultrasonic possibly.
Are the abs connected to the ecu.
I think they talk together as you have other sensors in the vehicle body. I believe there is a BCM (Body Control Module) in the driver's footwell.
@@CoatsandGaiters Okey thank you for the information
@@muhammadamir8276 there is also a chip in the abs unit programmed and coded and if you replace you must use the exact part number for that reason so on that basis the abs must be talking to the other onboard ecu’s I’d presume.
Okey sir. That is very nice explanation.
It works ?
Sadly not.
Can't believe that those pins aren't soldered... Maybe they are from other side?
I guess a press fit works well enough to last the warranty. Soldering probably adds to the cost they will say. If we soldered them it would add £50 to the cost lol you know how these companies work today sadly.
Did the module worked after this fix??
Sadly not
Woow... It should have been fixed
@@ervinmq1955 The hair line wires to the sensor often fail which is impossible to mend at home I believe.
@@CoatsandGaitershow do these wires look like? Do you have a video/images of it, or anywhere i could get further information of where they are and how they look like?
@@gubban48 "The other common fault that we see with this ABS unit, is the brake pressure sensor that is found within the Hydraulic Unit.
This is the more common fault out of the two and one where we have a bespoke remanufacturing process to fix the fault. We find that 99% of the time, when there is a brake pressure sensor fault, it is the small micro wires within that need replacing. This can be extremely difficult as the wires are barely visible to the naked eye, and therefore requires the use of our bespoke machine to remanufacture this unit." pmmonline.co.uk/technical/common-faults-ate-mk60-abs-unit/
I think I have an identical ABS module on Chevrolet Cruze 2009.. mine have two main errors Stuck Pump intermittent/Permanent and Hardware Control Unit Malfunction/Short to Battery Errors. I check Pump motor, Pump pistons, Electrical Power to ABS Module, everything look OK... I test voltage out to the pump is 5v when starting the car with no load an 0 with motor load so I think the MOSFET that drive the motor is bad or an inside connection with high resistance, so the electronic module need opening and check...
The bad thing is I can't use the car without the module, the car engine will not start with the module disconnected...
When is hot outside the ABS works (middle of the day, run the car longer so engine compartment get hot) but when is cold not (in the morning)... so clear that is an electronic problem...
Could be the fine wires going to the sensor inside the module as they are the width of a human hair. Possibly making contact when hot and expand and then loose connection when they contract. Bit of an issue for everyone I believe as these are fitted to so many cars.
I think tomorrow I will try only to remove the electronic module, removing first the ABS bracket... I think is possible only if I un-clip the motor connector from the electronic module, otherwise is not enough space under the electronics to extract it vertically down.
@@user-ug9nn You can just remove the electronic part on it's own.
@@CoatsandGaiters yes, just the brake pipes (plus the bracket) on mine run under the module so I think pipes need a little bend. But I need to extract the connector to the motor from ABS module, that one is too long...
I am afraid that I need to disconnect the piping witch I do not want... bleeding the brakes might be shitty as bleeders might be rusted and stuck, witch might brake and run in extra repair after...
I don't want to complicate things, I will look tomorrow and decide if I proceed further now or let it for a later repair... maybe I should start first with the caliper bleeders, If I think the pipes need to be disconnected...
One reason might be that push fit connector that you mention I will check connection on each pin with ohmmeter to see if that is the problem, maybe some power connection has high resistance
Looks to be a Bosch unit.
Did it work? We all want to know
Sadly not
This didn’t work.
How did you end up fixing it?
If it's the sensor wires that have broken it's a send away job. The wires are like human hair going to it. I'm still trying to get a second hand one off eBay.
Hello, i have from e 36 , how much it cost ?
Sorry I wouldn't know. Have you looked on eBay.
@@CoatsandGaiters yes i try to find one , my doesnt work , i was t ti try make this job you Made in yours
@@sashaursy5869 you can send them away to be repaired.
Did this fix your problem?
Sadly it didn't resolve so the fine wires might have broken to the sensor in the module. I might take it apart totally soon.
Please how to repair my ABS module to my nmax scooter
Sorry I doubt I could help much with that. I just open things up I work on at the time.
@@CoatsandGaiters is it suppose to be same ABS module on motorcycle
@@jhanexbluevlog8508 Sorry I wouldn't know
Hello I came across your video while searching 2 types of chips of ATe.
1) ATe 2004 990-9413.1B QCJO810
2) ATe 04 DCTEP0817E M98A SC560002MVF92 0994.8500 4
Can you please help me? Thank you
I probably don't know any more than what's in this video. But if I can help I will.
You didn't show it working in vehicle.
Was it a fix?!!!
Sadly not, might take apart completely if I can buy a spare cheap enough.
i don't think you've managed to put the electric motor back on the hydraulic block..........correct me if i'm wrong :)
Why do you think that please?
My positive pin gives continty but the ground doesn't so can I say that's my problem
I really couldn't say as I know these abs units have a finite life. I might be getting a replacement at the weekend and if that work I will take this one apart again.
bonjour vos soudure ont ils résolu le probléme
Sadly not as I think the wires to the sensor had snapped and they are the thickness of a human hair.
Ok, so I hate to rant but there was no repair done in this video. It was more of a maybe this is it so lets solder these push-fit pins rather than an actual diagnosis and repair. Maybe re-title it as saying how to take apart an ABS modulator and look over its components.
Thank you for your feedback and sorry it disappointed you.
mister
This is not the solution for this dtc
Ok
Why are so many abs units failing because of poor or lack of soldering. Who's making these things? some third world sweat factory manned by children?
They will say its cost as usual. If we solder them it will add £100 to each one lol
you need a schematic. those miserable piece of shit cars have terrible wiring routing and many times issues with the abs/transmission/engine ecu are caused by ground faults or harness damage that shorts out circuits. so believing what your meter says is good, but it could not be the way its should be. do it properly
Electrical gremlins are complicated arnt they. So many possibilities for errors developing. Probably makes more sense to send away to a specialist to be rectified.
@@CoatsandGaiters yeah, like an automotive technician
@@sorryimajerk735 yes, exactly
I could be wrong, but I think you must be dealing with "planned obsolescence"...(as for example happens in printers and other electronic devices).
On my car the abs unit ,it stopped working and gave an error after (exacly)140000km....
Maybe the problem is inside in one eeprom chip,and not the reflow pcb...
You never know today as big companies do sly things as everything is about profit and forcing continuous sales isn’t it.
Did this resolve your problem?
Sadly not. I bought a second hand one on eBay.
@@CoatsandGaiters I did the same thing, and now I am getting the ABS warning as soon as I start the car, instead of whenever I go over 12 mph, and there is no Power Steering failure locking in. So I think I got a bad unit, OR it needs to be programmed to my specific model of car. I'm going to Auto Zone tomorrow to get another free scan done to see what the codes are this time.
@@waynedowney7616 When you bought the replacement off ebay did you make sure the number was the same. If they are different numbers it may need to be reprogrammed to suit your car.
@@CoatsandGaiters Some of the numbers are the same, but some are different, so I think it is from a different model of Mercedes (exact same module though, Mercedes branded and fit perfectly, so you are probably right). Is this a dealership job to reprogram it, or can a third party shop do it? I'm supposing there is no way to do it yourself without being a hacker wiz. I was an Electronics Technician in the Navy so testing and soldering is fine, but I don't know anything about coding.
@@waynedowney7616 I think you can swop the chips over. Take a look at this part of my video. Double check though that's it this chip if you decide to do this. th-cam.com/video/zmkAuDSU1Zo/w-d-xo.html