Bayside, you have earned my respect as a fabricator. Why don't you stop with the big HP stuff and set the engine up for 400 hp with the most dependable, usable powerband for the street and track. The only reason the modern cars can run such big HP is because their computers are so damn advanced to control everything including the driver. The 996 has such a sweet chassis, all it needs is 400 hp and it will be tough to beat.
You should look at the oiling tricks the S2000 boys do when they put a K24 engine in the s2k.switching the engines orientation from Horizontal to longitudinal can create a lot of issues with oil . You should also consider your wastegate location as it might not be regulating the boost pressure correctly hence the hence the overboosting
Probably was compromised on the dyno when you hit 550hp. Plus, watch the torque on the K24s. Stock bottom ends can’t torque at all. I’m not crapping on your tuner. Those are the risks of dyno tuning. There’s no way to tell when a specific combination is going to give you more than you bargained for. Call Brent or Kyle and maybe think about a K20 instead
Well said, the way to make power on a stock bottom end turbo k-series is to keep the torque low and take advantage of the revs with the 50 degree cam gear. Pushing a stock engine to these limits is very specialized at that point and someone like Brent who tunes these for a living regularly has the advantage of getting it pretty close off the bat and knowing the idiosyncrasies (keeping torque in check, particularly in the midrange where it wants to peak). Luckily it wasn't the built engine.
A couple things have stuck with me when watching your videos. 1) how talented you are. 2) how well you take bad news. Good on you for not wasting energy getting angry or giving up. Honesty, I would go for a reliable 350hp. Keep up the good work
I think toss the built block in. This way it's safe regardless of boost. If it accidentally hit 30psi, safe. Drive all day on 17, no sweat. In the words of Alanis, "I got one hand in my pocket, the other one picking up engine parts."
Could it be starving the engine because the engine is designed to be sideways and now that it’s facing backwards the oil isn’t being picked up in the correct location when your accelerating??
You really need to run different rods/rod bolts etc and drop the comp if you want to run decent boost. I have a 2 different K24’s with new rods and pistons that make between 500 and 900hp. K24 is very reliable, as long as you fix the weak points.
I'm not a mechanic, engineer or qualified in any way to offer advice so ignore by all means 👍🏽 Stick an N/A K20 block in it with your oil pan and valve cover mods. Run it through and make sure it has no issues. Then when you're happy stick a snail on it and let it sing. If it has issues without turbo it was oil pickup all along. If not it was the boost spike sending it to 500+ on stock block fracturing something internal, which let go during this drive. Just in case this helps I've included a name of guy in Fl who know Honda K's very well - Albert Marty of Kraftwerks based in New Port Richey. Hopefully something I wrote in this comment was useful. Stay up bro 💪🏽 your build is still fascinating in spite of the set backs.
Not boostedboiz....they will blow it up for sure or it will never run period and be half ass. This thing is already cleaner and done better than most of that hacks cars.
Definitely go with a bit smaller turbo. 67mm is plenty for what you're trying to do. I was also wondering if there's an issue with the waste gate, based off what we were seeing on the dyno. That could be why you're having trouble regulating boost? Also wasn't your custom oil pan to help with the slosh of hard acceleration and the motor being oriented a different way than factory?
The K series doesn't like low end torque, that's where the rods pop. You would actually want a larger turbo to induce lag and create a safe ramp to spare the rods on the low end. A smaller turbo would probably make it pop easier.
Can't wait to see the post mortem examination of this one! I'm beginning to feel like you might as well just slap pistons and rods into everything. SBE life is just a game of waiting for the explosion. Lol
The secret to longevity in boosted k series: Clamp down the boost at 10psi max at any rpm before vtec switchover point.. Ideally 5psi down low up to 4k rpm, gradually to 10psi until vtec switchover point Either by boost solenoid.. or bigger exhaust housing... Atleast thats the solution for stock bottom end k series... Or put a set of rods in it, springs and retainer, opens up ring gap.. and porting your oil pump...
So looking at the damage your piston shattered first from there the rod wasn't attached to anything and tryed to chop your engine in half I've done the exact same thing when a boost line came off my wastegate but the piston shattering is caused by detonation and you even said it was breaking up during the pull need to look over the data log if it was recorded or the tune and make sure there is a boost cut and what the ignition timing and afr is at the load it was at during the pull
You need to talk to Brent or Kyle, they both talk about Turbo K series making too much torque at low revs, just tuning the engine is not the whole story, making the power in the right place in the rev range is a part as well.
Will you do another stock Motor but this time use defcon in to brace the sleeves like some people do to J series motors and run low boost. This setup can be used to develop your swap kit
How is your setup with the gearbox? Pilotbearing ? Can it be so that the crank is flexing sideways ? Or are you running to much torque to early in the rpm range for what other ppl normally run ?
Get in contact with humble performance and 4 piston. You need a built motor if your going to be pushing that much boost through her. Tuningbynick has a nice set up on his Porsche and is running strong maybe reach out to him
I love this build I was considering swapping my LS 996 to a K setup after watching yours. I think I would just go smaller turbo and make that thing 400-450 and leave it be. Those Hondas might be cheap but that transaxle isn’t so just go modest before it breaks IMO.
Sorry for your loss man. How about swapping the K for a cheap N46 from an old E46/E90 ? I'd be interested to see how much power one could make boosted. I doubt a 6cyl would fit. But you could try another M52 ??. Looking forward to see what you do next. Keep up the good work mate.
Sorry for your troubles man but you got this. Any chance Brent is coming down for a few weeks this winter, like he did last year? Great content. :) Maybe even get Jeremy to upload again.
Stock rods can make big power on front wheel drives where they just spin the wheels and unload the engine at lower rpm.The Porsche has Total traction and thus puts more load in the rods at low rpm .this is why people torque limit these engines .motion auto had an issue like this and just put eagle rods with the stock piston and it became more reliable .I think the valves can stretch and there can be valve float at higher rpm so fit updated valve springs and valves
@@baysidefabrication keep going man .your car is cool and we can’t wait till your turn the power up.you should get a oil pressure gauge too and accusump
@@baysidefabrication You have no oil baffles in your oil pan. Your engine had an oil starvation. The stock engine can handle 400-500 hp. I don't think it was a tuner problem but oil pickup problem. When you put power down to wheels the oil push back and the oil pickup is running dry.
How cylinders 1/2 exploded seems more like all the oil moved to the front of the engine during the pull and got in the cylinder and then decided to have a party. Thats why on the dyno its fine. Just my theory though but tough lost man. Hope you get it running back soon
Keep your head up Ben! Besides your E30, this build has really caught my attention. Awesome progress, Trials and tribulations. This build will turn a lot of heads once it’s all figured out. PFI Brent is just a call away.😉
Dude that's a bummer. I think I'd pop the next one open and gap those rings and maybe pop in a new pump. You know what they say, third time's the charm!
Hey dude... Don't give up... Get another engine, smaller turbo (if possible) and keep it at or below 400hp...🤷🏾♂️ Until you get the built motor...👍 What you did there was a bit ambitious for a stock K24... Maybe consider a K20 like Boosted Boyz did...🤔 Watch your rpm too...👀
Man this is rough to watch! Hope you can get everything fixed and back on the road again. I think it might have been pushed a weee bit to of far.... :)
Commented the last time it blew up. But if you don’t have any kind of aftermarket oil control that you haven’t shown, I’d bet that’s your issue. You may want to consider going dry sump
also torque is different the load. a motor can make torque all day and not experience a lot of load. this is a rwd Porsche, the k series motor was never designed for an application where it was going to be receiving that much load from the drivetrain. a fwd car will just burn the tires, or the tires will chirp, the load never makes it to the engine. even with slicks. this is a different story, those drive train forces are being imparted back into the engine. a good way to think about this, maybe make what im saying clearer, is a lot of high horse power turbo cars( i have one) will make boost at a lower rpm if the car has more passengers. if its a big enough turbo, the car will be faster with this added load, but with increased strain to the drivetrain coming from the increased weight. in your case there is no increase in weight, just an increase in traction. also load from acceleration transfers weight onto the drive train, not off of it like it would in the fwd application.
Think it’s time to give Brent a call brother also isn’t there a JDM importer in Florida that has K motors for 800 bucks at least that way you know you’re getting a less than 100,000 km motor I believe that’s where Kyle gets his
I don't have a solution to offer. My two cents are that I kinda miss the Kart. It was fun wasn't it? But that Porsche has pizzaz my dude. Keep up the content and thanks.
Surprised your tuner didn’t put boost cut on when tuning? Not disrespecting, as we all make mistakes. I put cut at target pressure plus 10 kPa. That way if the boost ever runs away then you have a safety threshold from the ECU. Look at something like a G30-660 or an EFR7163 maybe instead? Keep it up man!
The first motor was pretty hosed when you bought it, I don't think that counts. Do you have a log to make sure you had oil pressure? I thought you said you'd keep it around 400 HP on the stock motor? All that time and money still couldn't buy a 400 HP Porsche motor... Keep in mind the rings are gapped for 200 HP, NA. You are really pushing it without gapping the rings. The fact that you found a chunk of a cylinder makes me really think a ring seized. If you keep messing with stock internals without even gapping the rings, maybe have a boost cut lower than the equivalent of MOON TUNE, though!
@@baysidefabrication you are still fighting the good fight, and we are all with you. I think you might be just a little overzealous on the stock motors. Sure some have held 600 hp on the street, buy how many blew up before finding one that would? Mayve help me bug Richard Holdener to do the K24 Big Bang he has on the backburner! He'll gap the rings, put it back together and blow it up on an engine dyno.
@@RSADYNAMICS The more of us that bug him, the more he will realize that the youtube video will fund the project. I REALLY would love to know what a K24 can do without ring failure... How do we fund his project? It's not like I've seen him advertise a kickstarter or anything. I'd be willing to send a hundred bucks or so his way for it.
No surprises that the stock rods didn't handle the the torque and heat Do some more research with boosted K24s, you stuffed em it with the dyno shenanigans
When I was watching ya tune this the other day I said to my friend he's gonna blow that motor. Those rods can't take that much boost. It would be nice to see the logs of that pull when it blew to see what happened. Also need to double check oil and make sure your not loosing oil pressure when making pulls and having no oil around pick up in pan.
Wow that sucks. Like you said no one hurt and the car is fine. I would put a bounty on the F#ck up Fairy's head. She is not cutting you any slack. What really sucks is you put in the time and effort to prevent the very issues that happen. The other option is find an old tired clapped out engine and try to blow it up with a FULL SEND by heading to Key West at 80MPH in second gear.
Man that sucks. I think you did to much fancy stuff on the build, there is a recipe for the K-series in the stock block format that works and from what I’ve seen, keeping it simple seams to be the way. Go talk to Kyle and Wit.
Bayside, you have earned my respect as a fabricator. Why don't you stop with the big HP stuff and set the engine up for 400 hp with the most dependable, usable powerband for the street and track. The only reason the modern cars can run such big HP is because their computers are so damn advanced to control everything including the driver. The 996 has such a sweet chassis, all it needs is 400 hp and it will be tough to beat.
You should look at the oiling tricks the S2000 boys do when they put a K24 engine in the s2k.switching the engines orientation from Horizontal to longitudinal can create a lot of issues with oil . You should also consider your wastegate location as it might not be regulating the boost pressure correctly hence the hence the overboosting
Probably was compromised on the dyno when you hit 550hp. Plus, watch the torque on the K24s. Stock bottom ends can’t torque at all. I’m not crapping on your tuner. Those are the risks of dyno tuning. There’s no way to tell when a specific combination is going to give you more than you bargained for. Call Brent or Kyle and maybe think about a K20 instead
+1 I thought he did the same thing on the first one? Brent does remote tuning.
Ehh yeah maybe but engine 2 says something about oiling maybe, but ugh even that seems off.
Well said, the way to make power on a stock bottom end turbo k-series is to keep the torque low and take advantage of the revs with the 50 degree cam gear. Pushing a stock engine to these limits is very specialized at that point and someone like Brent who tunes these for a living regularly has the advantage of getting it pretty close off the bat and knowing the idiosyncrasies (keeping torque in check, particularly in the midrange where it wants to peak). Luckily it wasn't the built engine.
Had a feeling those guys didn't know what they were doing. He needs to gap the rings too.
+1 as well...dont boost until vtec engage
Keep your head up, bro. You do amazing work. You are learning a lot and sharing your experiences in an awesome way. You'll figure it out.
Nooo, I feel your pain. I am the guy who really wants to do this set up and cannot wait for you to get a reliable 500hp combo. Best luck!
A couple things have stuck with me when watching your videos. 1) how talented you are. 2) how well you take bad news. Good on you for not wasting energy getting angry or giving up.
Honesty, I would go for a reliable 350hp. Keep up the good work
You gonna be a pro at pulling and putting the Honda motor in that Porsche. Keep up the good work.
OK, you didn't let LS George drive did you? LOL!
I think toss the built block in. This way it's safe regardless of boost. If it accidentally hit 30psi, safe. Drive all day on 17, no sweat.
In the words of Alanis, "I got one hand in my pocket, the other one picking up engine parts."
give boosted boys a call to help build your engine and ask Brent from PFI to tune it next time he is in town
Humble performance knows these engines better than most
Could it be starving the engine because the engine is designed to be sideways and now that it’s facing backwards the oil isn’t being picked up in the correct location when your accelerating??
That tune and power band definitely needed work. Was very worrisome
Wow man Ka-Blammo! Must have hit the piston delete button by accident ha ha. Love the build.
You really need to run different rods/rod bolts etc and drop the comp if you want to run decent boost. I have a 2 different K24’s with new rods and pistons that make between 500 and 900hp. K24 is very reliable, as long as you fix the weak points.
I'm not a mechanic, engineer or qualified in any way to offer advice so ignore by all means 👍🏽
Stick an N/A K20 block in it with your oil pan and valve cover mods. Run it through and make sure it has no issues. Then when you're happy stick a snail on it and let it sing. If it has issues without turbo it was oil pickup all along. If not it was the boost spike sending it to 500+ on stock block fracturing something internal, which let go during this drive. Just in case this helps I've included a name of guy in Fl who know Honda K's very well - Albert Marty of Kraftwerks based in New Port Richey. Hopefully something I wrote in this comment was useful.
Stay up bro 💪🏽 your build is still fascinating in spite of the set backs.
Time for a colab with Brent or boostedboiz! Just need to build it to what you want it to make
Not boostedboiz....they will blow it up for sure or it will never run period and be half ass. This thing is already cleaner and done better than most of that hacks cars.
Welcome to the Honda life. That 911 is rejecting the transplant..
Definitely go with a bit smaller turbo. 67mm is plenty for what you're trying to do. I was also wondering if there's an issue with the waste gate, based off what we were seeing on the dyno. That could be why you're having trouble regulating boost?
Also wasn't your custom oil pan to help with the slosh of hard acceleration and the motor being oriented a different way than factory?
The K series doesn't like low end torque, that's where the rods pop. You would actually want a larger turbo to induce lag and create a safe ramp to spare the rods on the low end. A smaller turbo would probably make it pop easier.
Dang, at least you’ll be quicker each time you install/uninstall the engine
Would be interesting to see your timing table and a log of when the boost kicks in
The dyno pulls sounded quite tame, other than the boost cut run, was the dyno putting any load on? The street pulls under load sounded way wilder.
Can't wait to see the post mortem examination of this one! I'm beginning to feel like you might as well just slap pistons and rods into everything. SBE life is just a game of waiting for the explosion. Lol
why was there no baffles for the oil pump? check the crank
The secret to longevity in boosted k series:
Clamp down the boost at 10psi max at any rpm before vtec switchover point..
Ideally 5psi down low up to 4k rpm, gradually to 10psi until vtec switchover point
Either by boost solenoid.. or bigger exhaust housing...
Atleast thats the solution for stock bottom end k series...
Or put a set of rods in it, springs and retainer, opens up ring gap.. and porting your oil pump...
Sorry for your loss
So looking at the damage your piston shattered first from there the rod wasn't attached to anything and tryed to chop your engine in half I've done the exact same thing when a boost line came off my wastegate but the piston shattering is caused by detonation and you even said it was breaking up during the pull need to look over the data log if it was recorded or the tune and make sure there is a boost cut and what the ignition timing and afr is at the load it was at during the pull
You need to talk to Brent or Kyle, they both talk about Turbo K series making too much torque at low revs, just tuning the engine is not the whole story, making the power in the right place in the rev range is a part as well.
Yeh I'd be calling the tuner ! Hopefully u can get it fixed , feel for u man
Such a shame, you really cant catch a break man x
where are the baffles in the sump? surely having the engine mounted that way round will starve it of oil when you do a pull?
Will you do another stock Motor but this time use defcon in to brace the sleeves like some people do to J series motors and run low boost. This setup can be used to develop your swap kit
It's a learning experience. Things can only get better. Hook up with Kyle's engine guy!!!
Hang in there brotha!
How is your setup with the gearbox?
Pilotbearing ?
Can it be so that the crank is flexing sideways ?
Or are you running to much torque to early in the rpm range for what other ppl normally run ?
You been hanging with LS George blowing things up is his area of expertise.
LOL
Get in contact with humble performance and 4 piston. You need a built motor if your going to be pushing that much boost through her. Tuningbynick has a nice set up on his Porsche and is running strong maybe reach out to him
I love this build I was considering swapping my LS 996 to a K setup after watching yours. I think I would just go smaller turbo and make that thing 400-450 and leave it be. Those Hondas might be cheap but that transaxle isn’t so just go modest before it breaks IMO.
I hope you keep up with the project. At one point I can hear the defeat in your voice and I have been there myself.
Sorry for your loss man. How about swapping the K for a cheap N46 from an old E46/E90 ? I'd be interested to see how much power one could make boosted. I doubt a 6cyl would fit. But you could try another M52 ??. Looking forward to see what you do next. Keep up the good work mate.
Sorry for your troubles man but you got this. Any chance Brent is coming down for a few weeks this winter, like he did last year? Great content. :) Maybe even get Jeremy to upload again.
Did you even upgrade to and S2k oil pump
Stock rods can make big power on front wheel drives where they just spin the wheels and unload the engine at lower rpm.The Porsche has Total traction and thus puts more load in the rods at low rpm .this is why people torque limit these engines .motion auto had an issue like this and just put eagle rods with the stock piston and it became more reliable .I think the valves can stretch and there can be valve float at higher rpm so fit updated valve springs and valves
Excellent observation!! He should have been getting better advice from the get go.
Agreed. There was way too much torque on this setup for the stock motor.
@@baysidefabrication keep going man .your car is cool and we can’t wait till your turn the power up.you should get a oil pressure gauge too and accusump
@@baysidefabrication ya the Tuner really got you good with this one. This is on the tuner & your driving lmfao!
@@baysidefabrication You have no oil baffles in your oil pan. Your engine had an oil starvation. The stock engine can handle 400-500 hp. I don't think it was a tuner problem but oil pickup problem. When you put power down to wheels the oil push back and the oil pickup is running dry.
Great content thanks for sharing
How cylinders 1/2 exploded seems more like all the oil moved to the front of the engine during the pull and got in the cylinder and then decided to have a party. Thats why on the dyno its fine. Just my theory though but tough lost man. Hope you get it running back soon
Keep your head up Ben! Besides your E30, this build has really caught my attention. Awesome progress, Trials and tribulations. This build will turn a lot of heads once it’s all figured out. PFI Brent is just a call away.😉
Which oil pump was that?
Only detonation would send a piston and rod reverse rotation through the side of the block.
New tuner please
Sorry about this. Interested to see what you do next.
what ecu are you running? can you check logs?
Time to call the Boosted Boiz! Also, might be time for a devcon'ed block with some rods and pistons.
why stock rods?
Maybe link up with Kyle from Boosted Boiz. Him and Wyatt seem to have a pretty good handle on those motors.
I love the show by the way.
To quote David Hobbs: “kablammo”.
Set backs happen. Next time, get some data logs to verify oil pressure under load while doing pulls.
No video of it blowing ??????
ahhh, that big turbo, stock motor life!
Dude that's a bummer. I think I'd pop the next one open and gap those rings and maybe pop in a new pump. You know what they say, third time's the charm!
Hey dude...
Don't give up... Get another engine, smaller turbo (if possible) and keep it at or below 400hp...🤷🏾♂️
Until you get the built motor...👍
What you did there was a bit ambitious for a stock K24...
Maybe consider a K20 like Boosted Boyz did...🤔
Watch your rpm too...👀
Man this is rough to watch! Hope you can get everything fixed and back on the road again. I think it might have been pushed a weee bit to of far.... :)
Need to talk to the boosted boyz
Had nothing to do with the dyno session you had yesterday. 550 to on stock bottom end. What let loose bottom end. Next step.. Built bottom end motor.
Commented the last time it blew up. But if you don’t have any kind of aftermarket oil control that you haven’t shown, I’d bet that’s your issue. You may want to consider going dry sump
also torque is different the load. a motor can make torque all day and not experience a lot of load. this is a rwd Porsche, the k series motor was never designed for an application where it was going to be receiving that much load from the drivetrain. a fwd car will just burn the tires, or the tires will chirp, the load never makes it to the engine. even with slicks. this is a different story, those drive train forces are being imparted back into the engine. a good way to think about this, maybe make what im saying clearer, is a lot of high horse power turbo cars( i have one) will make boost at a lower rpm if the car has more passengers. if its a big enough turbo, the car will be faster with this added load, but with increased strain to the drivetrain coming from the increased weight. in your case there is no increase in weight, just an increase in traction. also load from acceleration transfers weight onto the drive train, not off of it like it would in the fwd application.
Think it’s time to give Brent a call brother also isn’t there a JDM importer in Florida that has K motors for 800 bucks at least that way you know you’re getting a less than 100,000 km motor I believe that’s where Kyle gets his
This is a jdm low mile motor
I don't have a solution to offer. My two cents are that I kinda miss the Kart. It was fun wasn't it? But that Porsche has pizzaz my dude. Keep up the content and thanks.
What cha expect from a junkyard motor
Get that built bottom end in there and not have to worry about it.
Bummer! That sucks!
Think there is any sump issue under load? Since the sump pickup is now a different orientation? I don’t get it either brother.
The pickup is far forward just throwing ideas. How do bearings look? Are there baffles in that pan or no?
Okay I’m watching more. Something with this trans kit ? No one breaks a girdle.
Damn...bring boost in later in the rev range...gap them rings...and send it
We all called it on the last video that you should find a real tuner. Sucks to see.
Can’t turbo an unbuilt engine and expect it to last
Man, that's gotta be annoying. Hope you get it figured out.
I'd get the boostedboiz to help u build it be some good content too
Sacked in, that's what you get for buying a used motor and sending it on the dyno
Surprised your tuner didn’t put boost cut on when tuning? Not disrespecting, as we all make mistakes. I put cut at target pressure plus 10 kPa. That way if the boost ever runs away then you have a safety threshold from the ECU.
Look at something like a G30-660 or an EFR7163 maybe instead?
Keep it up man!
You can only go so far on stock motors. You already blew up 2 of them, so it's time to move onto a built motor on the next one.
Sure u will get it sussed ben 🤜👍
So the M96/M97 engine is more reliable?
I’m sure if I Shoveled 25lbs+ of boost into one I would be into identical situation except have a $10k+ bill
@@baysidefabrication true 25lbs of boost will blow most N/A engines
The first motor was pretty hosed when you bought it, I don't think that counts. Do you have a log to make sure you had oil pressure?
I thought you said you'd keep it around 400 HP on the stock motor?
All that time and money still couldn't buy a 400 HP Porsche motor...
Keep in mind the rings are gapped for 200 HP, NA. You are really pushing it without gapping the rings. The fact that you found a chunk of a cylinder makes me really think a ring seized.
If you keep messing with stock internals without even gapping the rings, maybe have a boost cut lower than the equivalent of MOON TUNE, though!
I’m still no where near what it would cost to get a m96 to 400hp.
@@baysidefabrication you are still fighting the good fight, and we are all with you. I think you might be just a little overzealous on the stock motors. Sure some have held 600 hp on the street, buy how many blew up before finding one that would? Mayve help me bug Richard Holdener to do the K24 Big Bang he has on the backburner! He'll gap the rings, put it back together and blow it up on an engine dyno.
@@chrishenry571 I asked Richard holder about this it’s definitely on the back burner I think he wanted people to fund the project
@@RSADYNAMICS The more of us that bug him, the more he will realize that the youtube video will fund the project. I REALLY would love to know what a K24 can do without ring failure...
How do we fund his project? It's not like I've seen him advertise a kickstarter or anything. I'd be willing to send a hundred bucks or so his way for it.
@@baysidefabrication That's what the dude was saying. Same thing as you.
No surprises that the stock rods didn't handle the the torque and heat
Do some more research with boosted K24s, you stuffed em it with the dyno shenanigans
Why don’t you get a diagnosis from JBR? I’m sure they will be able to figure it out
dear oh dear
Stick with a K20 not K24. Less torque if your sticking with stock bottom end. The RSX type S K20A2 is the one to have bc it’s got a better oil pump.
Damn that sucks, so sorry
When I was watching ya tune this the other day I said to my friend he's gonna blow that motor. Those rods can't take that much boost. It would be nice to see the logs of that pull when it blew to see what happened. Also need to double check oil and make sure your not loosing oil pressure when making pulls and having no oil around pick up in pan.
1000% tuner went to town on your expense
@@stephenjones9868 absolutely
Wow that sucks. Like you said no one hurt and the car is fine. I would put a bounty on the F#ck up Fairy's head. She is not cutting you any slack. What really sucks is you put in the time and effort to prevent the very issues that happen. The other option is find an old tired clapped out engine and try to blow it up with a FULL SEND by heading to Key West at 80MPH in second gear.
DSH!!!!!!Bag😂
Get back in touch with the boostedboiz and they can help with the motor build, you know that that how I found your channel
A Waffle House special, because you left the street scattered smothered and covered.
Keep the Boost low , its fine at 450 or less than that
id put rods in it next time at they very least....
Take a rest and start again
Am I the only one who thinks he's need oil baffles in the pan? Looks to me like oil starvation when the K24 isn't designed to run forward alignment.
Correct he would suffered an oil starve situation on the right hand end of the Bloch, bloody newbies then blaming Honda
lets go LS ...
Low end torque would be my guess.
Man that sucks. I think you did to much fancy stuff on the build, there is a recipe for the K-series in the stock block format that works and from what I’ve seen, keeping it simple seams to be the way. Go talk to Kyle and Wit.
I agree with this statement.
Seems like u need a better tuner
Definitely over boosted with that kinda damage