Thanks for the detailed and complete breakdown of the costs! Always annoys me when people use parts they have lying around, without giving a price range or source.
Fantastically detailed analysis with clear direct audio. The goto channel for Laser, 3d, and CNC machine reviews. I wish all reviewer's channels were this detailed, Well Done!
I came looking for hints on cutting aluminum on a 3018. What a gem of a find! The other replies are right, your presentation skills are excellent. I'll be looking through the rest of your channel now, and thank you for the tips!
Great video !!! It is suggested that you ad tabs to the perimiter of the part so you can mill completely through the material. When clamping part to the table avaoid having any unsupported areas. Again great work !!
You’re awesome! With the spindle heating up, I’m surprised you didn’t use any cutting oil. Anyways I really want to get one of these and slap linear rails and a larger spindle (I’ve seen some people use dremels or makita drills for the spindles and get really good results) Yeah, there are a lot of upgrades you can do on this.
I congratulate you for a magnificent explanation. From the proposal to modify the type of motor for 3018 for 500w as for the rest of the comments for the improvement of the 3D printer. It was great listening to you.
Awesome video and great instructions. Little advice... make sure your tool is as short as possible. Get a shorter endmill and put it in the spindle as far as you can. If the Tool can't reach the desired depth, just move the whole spinbdle motor down in Z and your finish will be a lot better.
Great video! Your channel was recommended by several people on Twitter, and I’m glad they did. I subscribed and am looking forward to watching your previous videos.
Congrats. Very nice video and very educative. I also end up with 0.2 doc for my poorly rigid diy cnc. I need linear rails to boost rigidy. It would be great to see milling brass with this machine.
Being that i did this. I can confirm increase your speed, reduce feed and i have run up to .015" deep. Have you ever tried any coolants? And you should move your X and Y to start position then run rapid to .100" above. Start spindle and move Z last to start cutting. This prevents dragging over the stock. Lastly you really should spot the hole before drilling and use same spot drill to chamfer the edges after. To remove some machining marks using fine grit sandoaper can give you a nicer finish.
Do you know about chatter? Chatter happens when there is not enough material for the cutter to cut so it pushes passed the material leaving a smudged/melted look. You can fix chatter by decreasing RPM or increasing Feed Rate. Also increasing rigidity will help prevent chatter. Hard deal for your situation. Try less tool stick out, better work holding, and less than 100% step over for your tool path. This is a make believe number but maybe with say 3% stepover the motors can handle full speed to utilize full rpm to avoid chatter. Maybe try a super short tool with insane number of flutes. Have fun!!
you need to build some cooling apparatus for this thing, better cooling milk than air. You also want a real Wolfram-Carbid bit which is aboz 25-30 bucks for a standard size. I think this machine is amazing. trust me this thing can do more than 0.1mm depth in aluminum given a good bit and proper cooling. Everybody can be an engineer now.
I came here looking for the CNC but saw that we have the exact same Sapphire version. I cut the Z lead screw tops with bolt cutter and printed a plastic hotend mount and fan shroud for v6+volcano (again same choice.) Otherwise for Sapphire Plus, if you have the version with Z screws on sides, volcano block collides with the screws.
I think you could've made an aluminum bracket for the spindle. Or even wood. For aluminum on a cheap CNC: carbide single flute endmill (cheap ones work ok, upgrade without breaking the bank: Yonico brand), adaptive cutting on fusion360, adapt an air assist with a cheap compressor or dust collection or both. Finally if you have some more of that nice aluminum, replace the plastic parts of the machine and upgrade the steppers to high torque n17 (the board allows a bit more amperage, just add a sticky heatsink on the drivers) I realized this is old, so just leaving this in case anyone else is getting one of these machines.
yah, the spindle, i live in an apartment, so noise is my concern, next option up is bloody expensive, but really quiet, water cooled with a vfd, too big to fit the 3018, though a counterbalance and willingness to reduce capacity would allow someone to cut parts for a bigger machine..
Wow, very impressive young lady. You said you are going to 3D print that part for the CNC, would making it from aluminum be a better fix? I ask as I have a 3018 that I extended to be a 3040, I am still using the stock motor, and I plan on getting an upgrade motor, maybe even that one. Every thing I have done has been very short timed cuts, when using the spindle, all my others have been using a laser, all have been cutting wood or paper. I believe your skills are way past mine using the Spindle to cut with. Lee
OMG, as someone new to CNC who's been watching ALL the videos to figure out how to not break things, Speed Tiger is life!! Well, okay, Speed Tiger AND Spetool is the other comparable brand I found. Odd question, where did you find speeds/feeds for speed tiger end mills? I've been literally copying the ones from SpeTool, but I'd prefer to run slower if I'm supposed to or faster if I can
U should see about finding a student license 4 autodesk products!! or try ''desk proto''...milling is made easy with good g-code/nc-code tools!! good luck!! nice endmills!! I'm a Walter Tool's user myself..good luck with this!! hope to see a 5 axis rip on U'r show soon!!
Great video !!! At 4:47 minutres into the video you go through a sensor probing routine to tell the CNC controller where the "Z" home; "X" and "Y" positions are relative to the piece which you are machining. Could you please provide the commands for the g-code sub-routine or macro that you used to accomplish this ? Also what software are you using with this CNC configuration ?? I'm new to dekstop CNC milling and 3D priniing and have found your videos to be a most valuable resource. Please continue producing these great videos !!!
I would think that using a slightly more heat-tolerant plastic to model the spindle mount which you could then use to machine the same mount out of aluminum would be better.
great channel. very clear with your process. i made the mistake of buying the more expensive 3018 cnc but mainly cause it came with a 7watt laser but ive found i like using the router spindle more so i want to upgrade an you have been the first ive seen show the process of how u did it an what spindle you used an also went into the bits. thank you very much for this. i will be picking up one of the 500watt spindles just for using with aluminum but since having this setup now for awhile what would u suggest now after living with your setup.
Hello I was just wondering if you could make a video on how to use the online program kiri motto for using it on a cnc machine like this video that was about using fusion 360 on a cnc machine I have been watching all your videos and that video on kiri motto is hard to find a how to video on how to use it on cnc machines like the 3018 pro or the pro plus
a few things: 1) reduce your stick out as much as you can 2) get a router or even better the routER 11 by inventables, those can reach 24K rpm and for small endmills that key 3) if you gonna stick with this setup I would strongly recommend against using that big of an endmill, 4) check the printnc CNC, its a very capable machine. 5) if u are looking to upgrade your machine even further check the 3018pro MGN :th-cam.com/video/MknuEkM0_JM/w-d-xo.html
I cannot believe my eyes and ears. How old are the two of you? The amount of technical detail in your presentation, the fail analysis and the humbleness demonstrated are off the charts for two youngsters such as the two of you. Please tell me you are being tutored by an engineer. I am going to make a couple of remarks, please take them as constructive. One of the things that struck me was the separate emergency buttons. Never have I seen such a thing in any machine, and for good reason. I don't see a good reason to do so, let me explain why: If you stop the spindle and allow for the travel to continue, you will damage the part and quite likely break the tool. What operators do, is they cut the feed rate to zero if they don't want to waste time getting back to where they stopped the program. The spindle can still continue turning, but the axis will be stopped. The role of an emergency stop is exactly that, it's a panic button. In case of not being able to assess in time if someone will get hurt, or the machine or parts will get damaged, you just press it. There will be time to understand and learn later on, the important thing is that everything and everyone is safe. By having two buttons that stop different functions in a machine, you run the risk of making a mistake and press the wrong one, potentially causing even more harm. My advise is, you can use more than one, that's perfectly fine, but make it stop everything. If you just want to slow down the travel or stop it entirely, use a jog potentiometer. I say this with the utmost respect for your skills, which make no difference how you get them. That you have them at such a young age is mind-blowing. I get that the text was scripted, but still, you are way ahead of what I expected for your age bracket. Facing operations: the first thing you do when you setup any milling CNC is to face its own table. It's a long operation, but it will serve you well, as after that you know that the table is square with the vertical axis, so you can trust what you machine next. You don't want to speed this, as the smoother the table, the better the outcome will be. Also, if you need to get more proficient with squaring parts, I suggest that you machine cubes, and use measuring tools to make sure that your parts are well positioned. I don't know the English name of the gauge dials that are used, but maybe someone else can give you that information. I loved that you built the enclosure, it keeps everything cleaner and safer. I just want to add, never allow for machined parts to fly off. You are dealing with small, and low mass parts now, but bad habits tend to stick, and if that was a part made of a harder material like stainless, with sharp edges and would just fly off, I can guarantee that there would be damage done. One day you may become professional machinists, so please adopt safe procedures as soon as you possibly can, so that one day you don't get injured because o a knee-jerk action out of a bad habit. As for the rest, flawless. I take my hat off to whoever is helping you to achieve these things. Never operate machinery without company just In case you need help, and preferably have adult supervision. I would say always, but that's not something I can enforce, only recommend. Keep it up, invest your time in learning more cool things, you won't regret it. All the best, I'm going for a coffee, because I still think I had a dream.
Hi, you have a great channel Can you make, in the future, a more detailed video on your mods to the (mechanical, firmware, etc) ? Thanks Best regards from Argentina
I am not familiar with that plotter, but I think if the machine can move in XYZ should able to 3d print by adding a control board, extruder, and hotend.
Well, here is your first problem. Your cutter is way to long. Vibration is going to happen. #2 you should be cutting ALU with HHS (High Speed Steel) if you are not. #3 You need a collant/lubricant. For ALU use Varsol. ALU has a lower metling point and will gum up the cutter when it gets hot. The fact that you melted parts of the machine tells me you need less speeds and feeds. It will take longer but thats what you get with a 200$ machine.
Your TH-cam channel is one of the most helpful channels I have seen. I like that you added things that went wrong (so we can learn from you), and pointers on what to do and not to do. I also like that you also add bloopers at end of the video. Keep up the great work and I cannot wait to see your next video next week.
This is amazing! I have watched a few of your videos now and hit that subscribe button. Please continue your journey with CAD/CAM and 3D printing and dont stop! You are unlocking skills that most people could only dream of having! They will be useful forever! Awesome to see two people as young as you both are delving into this stuff! Keep up the good work!
I always wanted a 3018. Hope to see you guys cnc more. 3018 Tutorial videos are much needed. I would love to see you guys cnc some different materials like Wood, Brass, Bronze, Copper.
one thing that would help , it is to put some cutting oil on the tip of the cutter while cutting the parts, it will cool it down and help the cut , good work and you can tell your brother that he is doing a good job with the videos , you can also tell your parents that they are raising two great kids 👍 , and from what i saw in the comments lower , sois tu lis le français ou tu utilise translate , mais ta réponse en français me faire dire que que es une personne ouverte aux autres langues et c'est admirable de ta part, bravo ! merci de partager tes vidéos 🙂
Watching you two work and the knowledge you possess makes me feel wholly inadequate lmao. Keep up the great work, you two are going far in life for sure!
I have one of those same CNCs and just purchased the 500W spindle. haven't mounted it yet though. Also have the limit switches and planning to get them installed. While the 3D printed option for the mount allows the most flexibility, one option is to mill a new mount using wood instead. You won't have it go soft from a little bit of heat! Maybe figuring out how to mill one later from aluminum would be best though even if done as a couple layers/pieces.
Fan-Tas-Tic. Amazing how much experience you show. If you want a job in the CNC industry, call me. You can start on Monday. Besides, here are a few tips for your cheap machine alu cutting: Always use single flute endmills for alu. Even cheap ones will do a good job and greatly reduce the stress on the spindle. Always use ramping (spiral ramp) to enter the material as well as for cutting and also try toroidal milling. These precautions will help your underpowered and flimsy machine to hopefully get useable results. You also need to be careful not to go too slow as your chips will get too hot. The plastic spindle mount is a bad idea as it retains the heat and supports heat build-up. Make one from alu, it will work much better. I just admire your videos, you have so much knowledge and your presentation skills are great. But even better, your video preparation and research are tops. Am sure your brother helps you a bit. You deserve 100000 views and you will get there.
The actual mount that holds the spindle is aluminum and comes with the spindle. The issue in this case is the Z axis carriage that it attaches to. The one that comes with the system is integrated into the original spindle mount so has to be replaced in order to mount the more powerful spindle. The 3D printed option is pretty common since it is often readily available. However as they discovered using a lower temp plastic is bad. Most approachable initial option would be to use the system to mill a carriage from wood, perhaps in layers that can be stack laminated together. Using that, the system could run the higher power spindle and be used to mill an aluminum option. Another idea would be to add more active cooling to the spindle mount, maybe just in the form of a fan blowing on the spindle mount to help bleed off heat.
You may be new to milling but you have the first successful aluminum run I've seen on a budget CNC. I put mine away without use when I could find no successful metal cut attempts. Mine is all aluminum built with a mid size motor so it should work. Pulling it out to try. Thanks for the inspiration.
You mentioned skipped steps. Have you looked into closed-loop stepper motors? I recently bought some and a new controller from BigTreeTech, when they arrive I'm hoping those and my other upgrades to my DIY CNC engraver will make it a little more reliable. Would be interested if this is something you both have looked into or have tried.
Thanks for the detailed and complete breakdown of the costs! Always annoys me when people use parts they have lying around, without giving a price range or source.
Fantastically detailed analysis with clear direct audio. The goto channel for Laser, 3d, and CNC machine reviews. I wish all reviewer's channels were this detailed, Well Done!
I came looking for hints on cutting aluminum on a 3018. What a gem of a find! The other replies are right, your presentation skills are excellent. I'll be looking through the rest of your channel now, and thank you for the tips!
I’m a cnc machinist, and You know how to program better than some other people I’ve seen.
LOL, oh wait you are 100% correct. Of course I was in machine tool repair for a long long time, so I got to see the worst of the worst.
i want to learn how to program so I can use a CNC. Do you have any advise on what softwares and good tutorials I could use
I'm going to reiterate what others are saying. Your presentation skills are outstanding, let alone for someone your age. Keep it up!
Great video !!! It is suggested that you ad tabs to the perimiter of the part so you can mill completely through the material. When clamping part to the table avaoid having any unsupported areas. Again great work !!
Your presentation skills are excellent. You are going to go a long ways on TH-cam if you keep at it.
Or ouside youtube if you choose.
100%
I think the real cnc experts were the friends we made along the way.
This is the most helpful video about the CNC on the internet
Great structure and instructional style.
This girl has a great future ahead of her, keep them coming awesome informative videos
Thanks for the great 3018 information. Loved the giggles at the end. Not sure why cameras do that to us.
You’re awesome! With the spindle heating up, I’m surprised you didn’t use any cutting oil. Anyways I really want to get one of these and slap linear rails and a larger spindle (I’ve seen some people use dremels or makita drills for the spindles and get really good results) Yeah, there are a lot of upgrades you can do on this.
I congratulate you for a magnificent explanation. From the proposal to modify the type of motor for 3018 for 500w as for the rest of the comments for the improvement of the 3D printer.
It was great listening to you.
You’re so smart! Keep up the good work!
wow. i have had a cnc sitting in my garage for over a year and a half and never made it past building it. great job!
Awesome video and great instructions. Little advice... make sure your tool is as short as possible. Get a shorter endmill and put it in the spindle as far as you can. If the Tool can't reach the desired depth, just move the whole spinbdle motor down in Z and your finish will be a lot better.
Great video! Your channel was recommended by several people on Twitter, and I’m glad they did. I subscribed and am looking forward to watching your previous videos.
Awesome work! Naomi Wu sent me here, and I’m glad she did! Can’t wait to see what you come up with next!
How old is this child? Exceptionally impressive. Kudos to her parents.
Your channel is wrecking my bank account, 😄
I didn't realize I could get a mill for that cheap!
You do a great job, I love you tell us how you to cut aluminum. I have two mini cncs
Congrats. Very nice video and very educative. I also end up with 0.2 doc for my poorly rigid diy cnc. I need linear rails to boost rigidy. It would be great to see milling brass with this machine.
Great video, just what hobbyists need. Very professionally made. Thanks a lot. This was very usefull information.
Great video. I recently upgraded to a V6 too. I ended up just getting the optional blue aluminium threaded heatsink to avoid having to clamp entirely.
Thank you for 9:34, meanwhile best diy maker channel on yt.
Being that i did this. I can confirm increase your speed, reduce feed and i have run up to .015" deep. Have you ever tried any coolants? And you should move your X and Y to start position then run rapid to .100" above. Start spindle and move Z last to start cutting. This prevents dragging over the stock. Lastly you really should spot the hole before drilling and use same spot drill to chamfer the edges after. To remove some machining marks using fine grit sandoaper can give you a nicer finish.
Keep up the great job that you and your brother are doing. Well done !!
You can also use an edge finder to locate the part sides. It is purely mechanical and is spring-loaded.
Do you know about chatter? Chatter happens when there is not enough material for the cutter to cut so it pushes passed the material leaving a smudged/melted look. You can fix chatter by decreasing RPM or increasing Feed Rate. Also increasing rigidity will help prevent chatter. Hard deal for your situation. Try less tool stick out, better work holding, and less than 100% step over for your tool path. This is a make believe number but maybe with say 3% stepover the motors can handle full speed to utilize full rpm to avoid chatter. Maybe try a super short tool with insane number of flutes. Have fun!!
A great and very informative video. Thanks for convincing me to try out a 3018 mill.
you need to build some cooling apparatus for this thing, better cooling milk than air. You also want a real Wolfram-Carbid bit which is aboz 25-30 bucks for a standard size. I think this machine is amazing. trust me this thing can do more than 0.1mm depth in aluminum given a good bit and proper cooling. Everybody can be an engineer now.
Well done you did a great job
You are kidding me with that using the tool as a probe!! Wow.
I came here looking for the CNC but saw that we have the exact same Sapphire version. I cut the Z lead screw tops with bolt cutter and printed a plastic hotend mount and fan shroud for v6+volcano (again same choice.)
Otherwise for Sapphire Plus, if you have the version with Z screws on sides, volcano block collides with the screws.
Nice analysis and walk through. 👏👏👏
You are doing great work here! Thanks for your info, please keep at it!
I think you could've made an aluminum bracket for the spindle. Or even wood.
For aluminum on a cheap CNC: carbide single flute endmill (cheap ones work ok, upgrade without breaking the bank: Yonico brand), adaptive cutting on fusion360, adapt an air assist with a cheap compressor or dust collection or both. Finally if you have some more of that nice aluminum, replace the plastic parts of the machine and upgrade the steppers to high torque n17 (the board allows a bit more amperage, just add a sticky heatsink on the drivers)
I realized this is old, so just leaving this in case anyone else is getting one of these machines.
Good jobs kids. Actually really useful info and good presentation too!
Thank you for the outstanding video! I am interested in this cnc for small aluminum projects so your videos are a great help. Keep at it!
yah, the spindle, i live in an apartment, so noise is my concern, next option up is bloody expensive, but really quiet, water cooled with a vfd, too big to fit the 3018, though a counterbalance and willingness to reduce capacity would allow someone to cut parts for a bigger machine..
😮😮😮 did I just watch a kid make me re- evaluate my whole life..
Don't even care if she is reading off a card. 👏👏👏
thinking about getting this, same setup, but just for wood
Wow, very impressive young lady.
You said you are going to 3D print that part for the CNC, would making it from aluminum be a better fix?
I ask as I have a 3018 that I extended to be a 3040, I am still using the stock motor, and I plan on getting an upgrade motor, maybe even that one. Every thing I have done has been very short timed cuts, when using the spindle, all my others have been using a laser, all have been cutting wood or paper. I believe your skills are way past mine using the Spindle to cut with.
Lee
OMG, as someone new to CNC who's been watching ALL the videos to figure out how to not break things, Speed Tiger is life!! Well, okay, Speed Tiger AND Spetool is the other comparable brand I found.
Odd question, where did you find speeds/feeds for speed tiger end mills? I've been literally copying the ones from SpeTool, but I'd prefer to run slower if I'm supposed to or faster if I can
Very good video. So clear and understable. Better than mine I think! Haha
Also, you may be able to use a shorter windmill and increase depth of cuts.
Where can I adopt kids like these?
U should see about finding a student license 4 autodesk products!! or try ''desk proto''...milling is made easy with good g-code/nc-code tools!! good luck!! nice endmills!! I'm a Walter Tool's user myself..good luck with this!! hope to see a 5 axis rip on U'r show soon!!
this is excellent content. really impressive work!
Great video !!! At 4:47 minutres into the video you go through a sensor probing routine to tell the CNC controller where the "Z" home; "X" and "Y" positions are relative to the piece which you are machining. Could you please provide the commands for the g-code sub-routine or macro that you used to accomplish this ? Also what software are you using with this CNC configuration ??
I'm new to dekstop CNC milling and 3D priniing and have found your videos to be a most valuable resource. Please continue producing these great videos !!!
You just need to install Universal GCode Sender (UGS) and use the probe plugin, which is free to download.
winder.github.io/ugs_website/
Smart girl, keep making video!
I would think that using a slightly more heat-tolerant plastic to model the spindle mount which you could then use to machine the same mount out of aluminum would be better.
Very well done! :-D
great channel. very clear with your process. i made the mistake of buying the more expensive 3018 cnc but mainly cause it came with a 7watt laser but ive found i like using the router spindle more so i want to upgrade an you have been the first ive seen show the process of how u did it an what spindle you used an also went into the bits. thank you very much for this. i will be picking up one of the 500watt spindles just for using with aluminum but since having this setup now for awhile what would u suggest now after living with your setup.
Hello, Love your Videos. My question is, What parts do I need for my CNC 3018 Pro in order to be able to cut Aluminum that is 2.5mm thick??
Thank You
Hello I was just wondering if you could make a video on how to use the online program kiri motto for using it on a cnc machine like this video that was about using fusion 360 on a cnc machine I have been watching all your videos and that video on kiri motto is hard to find a how to video on how to use it on cnc machines like the 3018 pro or the pro plus
Great video! Just use some cutting fluid.
Awesome video thanks
Why don't you mill a spindle mount out of aluminium?
can 3018 cnc cut big object or it can not manage
This 8 year old girl can do CNC!
2-flute end mills for cutting aluminum
Use the same aluminum to cut the part You need. Do it by layers.
What is your spindle rpm?
How did you use the touch probe to home x-y axis? Modified G code? My 3018 only probes z axis? Excellent video! 👍
I just use Universal GCode Sender which includes the XYZ probe plugin.
@@AuroraTech I will have to research that. Thank you for your response.
a few things: 1) reduce your stick out as much as you can 2) get a router or even better the routER 11 by inventables, those can reach 24K rpm and for small endmills that key 3) if you gonna stick with this setup I would strongly recommend against using that big of an endmill, 4) check the printnc CNC, its a very capable machine. 5) if u are looking to upgrade your machine even further check the 3018pro MGN :th-cam.com/video/MknuEkM0_JM/w-d-xo.html
Excellent
Great video
Oil must be used to cool the pieces And you have to use a different installation system
Excellent video and can you come to the uk as I really need help from someone as clever as you.
I cannot believe my eyes and ears. How old are the two of you? The amount of technical detail in your presentation, the fail analysis and the humbleness demonstrated are off the charts for two youngsters such as the two of you. Please tell me you are being tutored by an engineer.
I am going to make a couple of remarks, please take them as constructive. One of the things that struck me was the separate emergency buttons. Never have I seen such a thing in any machine, and for good reason. I don't see a good reason to do so, let me explain why: If you stop the spindle and allow for the travel to continue, you will damage the part and quite likely break the tool.
What operators do, is they cut the feed rate to zero if they don't want to waste time getting back to where they stopped the program. The spindle can still continue turning, but the axis will be stopped. The role of an emergency stop is exactly that, it's a panic button. In case of not being able to assess in time if someone will get hurt, or the machine or parts will get damaged, you just press it.
There will be time to understand and learn later on, the important thing is that everything and everyone is safe. By having two buttons that stop different functions in a machine, you run the risk of making a mistake and press the wrong one, potentially causing even more harm. My advise is, you can use more than one, that's perfectly fine, but make it stop everything. If you just want to slow down the travel or stop it entirely, use a jog potentiometer. I say this with the utmost respect for your skills, which make no difference how you get them. That you have them at such a young age is mind-blowing. I get that the text was scripted, but still, you are way ahead of what I expected for your age bracket.
Facing operations: the first thing you do when you setup any milling CNC is to face its own table. It's a long operation, but it will serve you well, as after that you know that the table is square with the vertical axis, so you can trust what you machine next. You don't want to speed this, as the smoother the table, the better the outcome will be. Also, if you need to get more proficient with squaring parts, I suggest that you machine cubes, and use measuring tools to make sure that your parts are well positioned. I don't know the English name of the gauge dials that are used, but maybe someone else can give you that information.
I loved that you built the enclosure, it keeps everything cleaner and safer. I just want to add, never allow for machined parts to fly off. You are dealing with small, and low mass parts now, but bad habits tend to stick, and if that was a part made of a harder material like stainless, with sharp edges and would just fly off, I can guarantee that there would be damage done. One day you may become professional machinists, so please adopt safe procedures as soon as you possibly can, so that one day you don't get injured because o a knee-jerk action out of a bad habit.
As for the rest, flawless. I take my hat off to whoever is helping you to achieve these things. Never operate machinery without company just In case you need help, and preferably have adult supervision. I would say always, but that's not something I can enforce, only recommend. Keep it up, invest your time in learning more cool things, you won't regret it.
All the best, I'm going for a coffee, because I still think I had a dream.
Hi, you have a great channel
Can you make, in the future, a more detailed video on your mods to the
(mechanical, firmware, etc) ? Thanks
Best regards from Argentina
Thanks for your comment. Yes, I will make more upgrade videos and post them in the near future.
excellent
13:37 don't miss the NG clip
How deep can the cnc cut into aluminum?
But could I use it on a AR15 80% lower? 🤔
Not enough height. In that configuration, the Z height is limited to a little over 1 inch.
Hi! You are awesome! Please, tell me how do you find x and y zero points whith z-probe? is it grbl function? how to use it?
You can install UGS (Universal Gcode sender), it has a probe plugin that can do all X Y and Z.
winder.github.io/ugs_website/download/
I have old graphtec ce 2000 plotter can I use x axis unit for 3d printer
I am not familiar with that plotter, but I think if the machine can move in XYZ should able to 3d print by adding a control board, extruder, and hotend.
When u cut metal.... use lubricant... paraffin to cut aluminium.... Great video
You have a CNC.
Make the spindle mount out of metal.
Well, here is your first problem. Your cutter is way to long. Vibration is going to happen. #2 you should be cutting ALU with HHS (High Speed Steel) if you are not. #3 You need a collant/lubricant. For ALU use Varsol. ALU has a lower metling point and will gum up the cutter when it gets hot. The fact that you melted parts of the machine tells me you need less speeds and feeds. It will take longer but thats what you get with a 200$ machine.
Which one of the 500w spindle conversion did you do?
Any DC 110v 500w spindle should work the same, you can see if there is any cheaper option from Aliexpress or eBay.
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Your TH-cam channel is one of the most helpful channels I have seen. I like that you added things that went wrong (so we can learn from you), and pointers on what to do and not to do. I also like that you also add bloopers at end of the video. Keep up the great work and I cannot wait to see your next video next week.
She talks much better than most adults. Keep it up!
.МОЛОДЕЦ ДЕВОЧКА ), КРАСИВАЯ УЛЫБКА))
how old is the girl in the video. she looks like a little girl yet her mind and maturity looks like an old grown intelligent woman. No offense
This is amazing! I have watched a few of your videos now and hit that subscribe button. Please continue your journey with CAD/CAM and 3D printing and dont stop! You are unlocking skills that most people could only dream of having! They will be useful forever! Awesome to see two people as young as you both are delving into this stuff! Keep up the good work!
Try spraying some WD40 on the aluminum for a lubricant and you’ll probably get a better cut.
I always wanted a 3018. Hope to see you guys cnc more. 3018 Tutorial videos are much needed. I would love to see you guys cnc some different materials like Wood, Brass, Bronze, Copper.
one thing that would help , it is to put some cutting oil on the tip of the cutter while cutting the parts, it will cool it down and help the cut , good work and you can tell your brother that he is doing a good job with the videos , you can also tell your parents that they are raising two great kids 👍 , and from what i saw in the comments lower , sois tu lis le français ou tu utilise translate , mais ta réponse en français me faire dire que que es une personne ouverte aux autres langues et c'est admirable de ta part, bravo ! merci de partager tes vidéos 🙂
Watching you two work and the knowledge you possess makes me feel wholly inadequate lmao. Keep up the great work, you two are going far in life for sure!
I have one of those same CNCs and just purchased the 500W spindle. haven't mounted it yet though. Also have the limit switches and planning to get them installed. While the 3D printed option for the mount allows the most flexibility, one option is to mill a new mount using wood instead. You won't have it go soft from a little bit of heat! Maybe figuring out how to mill one later from aluminum would be best though even if done as a couple layers/pieces.
Dang kid, this cnc video is great. I'm a dad aged guy and am learning a lot from these videos. Thank you.
Fan-Tas-Tic. Amazing how much experience you show. If you want a job in the CNC industry, call me. You can start on Monday. Besides, here are a few tips for your cheap machine alu cutting: Always use single flute endmills for alu. Even cheap ones will do a good job and greatly reduce the stress on the spindle. Always use ramping (spiral ramp) to enter the material as well as for cutting and also try toroidal milling. These precautions will help your underpowered and flimsy machine to hopefully get useable results. You also need to be careful not to go too slow as your chips will get too hot. The plastic spindle mount is a bad idea as it retains the heat and supports heat build-up. Make one from alu, it will work much better. I just admire your videos, you have so much knowledge and your presentation skills are great. But even better, your video preparation and research are tops. Am sure your brother helps you a bit. You deserve 100000 views and you will get there.
The actual mount that holds the spindle is aluminum and comes with the spindle. The issue in this case is the Z axis carriage that it attaches to. The one that comes with the system is integrated into the original spindle mount so has to be replaced in order to mount the more powerful spindle. The 3D printed option is pretty common since it is often readily available. However as they discovered using a lower temp plastic is bad. Most approachable initial option would be to use the system to mill a carriage from wood, perhaps in layers that can be stack laminated together. Using that, the system could run the higher power spindle and be used to mill an aluminum option. Another idea would be to add more active cooling to the spindle mount, maybe just in the form of a fan blowing on the spindle mount to help bleed off heat.
start using tabs before one of them parts comes out and hits you in the face at high speed.
LUBRICATION!!!!
Cut alloy and even just water on the surface will help...
You may be new to milling but you have the first successful aluminum run I've seen on a budget CNC. I put mine away without use when I could find no successful metal cut attempts. Mine is all aluminum built with a mid size motor so it should work. Pulling it out to try. Thanks for the inspiration.
You mentioned skipped steps.
Have you looked into closed-loop stepper motors?
I recently bought some and a new controller from BigTreeTech, when they arrive I'm hoping those and my other upgrades to my DIY CNC engraver will make it a little more reliable.
Would be interested if this is something you both have looked into or have tried.