There is nothing more satisfying than watching a video from a few years ago on a channel you've never seen and then seeing there's a follow-up video available!
1. Most CNC machines in the shop will use a filter on the air intake of the electronics to keep dirt and chips out. That should be an easy mod. 2. Use an air blower or preferably an air mister with coolant to blow away the chips to get a better finish. 3. Try to have the end mill stick out of the collet as short as possible to keep the tool from flexing... Awesome project!
I can provide high-quality low-cost processing services. If you need mass production of this product, you can contact me, and the cost will save you 40% to 50%.
You are on the right track with the box. I am a control systems engineer. This is my explanation to everyone. You need to make the air in the box slightly higher pressure than the outside. So you need your fan to suck through a fine filter and *PUSH* the clean air into the box or cabinet. You'll find many electrical devices have the fan on the outlet of the ventilation system. Go look at the PSU on most desk top PCSs. My PS4 does this and its something I like to slap a few Sony guys for. The problem is when the fan is at the air outlet its sucking air from inside the box/cabinet which reduces the air pressure inside the box/cabinet. It will then suck in dust from any and every place it can be sucked.
If you aren't happy with the side wall surface finishes, you should create a roughing tool path leaving a few thou of excess stock on the walls, and a secondary "finishing" tool-path to clean them up.. you'll want to reduce the travel speed, full depth of cut minus about a thousandths so you don't mar up the floor finish (only applicable to parts with a floor to finish), and skim the edges to remove the excess stock you left in the first operation, as well as cleaning up, and leaving a uniform wall surface finish. It's common in CNC machining to create multiple operations like this. roughing passes care little about surface finish, it's all about removing material as fast as possible, and a secondary clean-up pass to remove the last bit of stock and leave an acceptable surface finish. Hope this was helpful :)
This is a godsend. I recently tore down a couple 3d printers I don't use anymore and wanted to convert them into a CNC machine exactly like this. I was just to lazy to design anything and am still a beginner with cad software. This is awesome.
Really a good build-series. Even though you've used a few Chinese parts, your build is already much better than a chinese CNC. There are a few things I noticed ... 1: Please don't use double sided tape for attaching the heatsinks; double-sided tape (especially foam-tape) insulates against heat and thus keep the heat inside the part you wish to cool down. Instead you can use DOW Corning 340 if you can mount the heatsink using bolts (DOW Corning 340 is not adhesive). Stepper motors do not need to be cooled; most people make the mistake that they think they should not get hot. Normal working temperature for a stepper motor is 60°C (which is: not boiling, but you do not want to touch the motor). If you can't mount the heatsinks using bolts, there are still a few adhesive heatsink compounds available (I know Arctic make some, but they're hard to get as they're epoxy based and are usually sold to companies in larger quantities). Epoxy-based heatsink compounds *can* be mixed with non-adhesive variants, to make it possible to remove the heatsink if necessary; you'll have to experiment with the mixing ratio, though. 2: You could use double-sided tape for the parts you're milling. Stick the aluminum block onto the build-plate with double-sided tape, then keep the holding tabs (at 11:20) and let the CNC remove those gently as the last step - then you hav a part which is ready to use when the CNC is done. 3: A4988 is a good stepper driver to test with; but try upgrading to TMC2209, they should make smoother movements, which will minimize the chatter and thus resulting in a smoother surface on the part. BiQu's TMC2209 v1.2 is currently the best driver (don't get fooled by other manufacturer's v2.0 or v2.2 or 3.x). IMPORTANT: Remember to disconnect all motors, then adjust vREF so it matches your motors and finally connect the motors. If you start by connecting the motors, you'll likely fry the TMC2209's MOSFET (like I did, because I forgot). 4: Arduino is also a good and easy start, however, upgrading to a ARM Cortex-M4 board (recommend STM32F4-based), then you will get floating point calculations and 32-bit calculations at a much higher speed, which in the end means you'll be able to get the ability to calculate curves (bezierpaths) - again, this improves the quality of the workpiece. 5: When I saw your first build, I was thinking that you could probably create your own spindle from good quality ball-bearings and a 10mm shaft; then power that spindle by the motor. Note: Roller-skate bearings are cheap and fairly good quality (I think they're actually 8mm, so you'd probably have to use an 8mm shaft). 6: The 2020 aluminum profiles used for the frame have a circular center, where you can tap a thread; then drill a hole in the connecting piece for a bolt and tighten this to get better rigidity; keep the plastic, so you'll get as much rigidity as possible. About heatsink compound (10 years ago, I worked with this for living) - apply one drop-size heatsink compound per square-inch. Spread it evenly over the surface using a razor blade. It should be a layer thinner than a piece of paper. The job of the heatsink compound is to remove airgaps between the two surfaces and otherwise be "invisible". It should not insulate. Tighten the bolts holding the heatsink as much as possible (without breaking the threads of course). I know you'll probably not implement all my suggestions, but if you (or someone else) can use just one of them, then it's been worth writing it. =)
I believe the "double sided foam" he used are actually thermal pads: specifically designed for use in IT heat transfer. Otherwise your advice is solid😁👍...
@@brazenh2836 - I wrote a reply, but it was lost due to YT's "hip-hopper features". Yes, the thermal pads can be used, but you really want to transfer as much heat into the heatsink as possible. -So if you're able to, go for a proper job with heatsink compound or adhesive heatsink compound if necessary.
I was right... I WAS RIGHT!!! The moment I saw you demonstrating the lack of rigidity in your previous video, I knew we were in for a treat when you addressed the problem. This is GREAT! You now have a tool that I am sure we will see get more refinement and tuning in the future... you have opened up a "Pandora's box" of possibilities, I will wait with bated breath. Many thanks, Liked and Subscribed.
What I like about ur CNC mill is that it isn't so damn expensive to build like the other designs and you can learn way more than on the other ones when you upgrade it over time
On the backlash. Their are backlash nuts that are designed to use a spring to push them apart and they are pretty cheap. The benefit is that since your causing more friction the nut will wear out faster and the spring ensures it stays in good contact despite wear.
Very nice build. Using a backlash nut instead of two individual nuts might make for a simpler mounting bracket, but the effect is essentially the same as what you've done here.
Just stumbled across this video today. Pretty impressive. Goes to show you, when there's a will, there's a way. Since you already have access to Aluminum and a way to cut it you can replace all the 3D printed gussets with Aluminum for more rigidity. Also, the whole back of the X gantry can be a slab of Aluminum and you can bolt linear rails to. OR, you can build a V2 and forego all TSlot entirely and use Linear Rails bolted to Aluminum slabs. Just ideas; I understand that $$$ doesn't grow on trees.
Your projects are incredible! They are the perfect mix of using minimal tools to maximise result with clever design. Thanks for the ideas, I am doing a similar project, the dual lead nut idea is genius. Thank you very much
@johnnytheprick I can provide high-quality low-cost processing services. If you need mass production of this product, you can contact me, and the cost will save you 40% to 50%.
Dang thats cool. Definitely consider an air assist, maybe look into one of those amazon electric air dusters, that could work and keep the size down. Maybe replace some of the plastic parts with exact aluminum replacements, to see if there are any immediate improvements in rigidity? Cool vid!
*TO ALL THE WAY TO KEEP STUFF OUT OF AN ELECTRICAL BOX OR CABINET IS POSITIVE PRESSURE.* You need to make the air in the box slightly higher pressure than the outside. So you need your fan to suck through a fine filter and *PUSH* the clean air into the box or cabinet. You'll find many electrical devices have the fan on the outlet of the ventilation system. Go look at the PSU on most desk top PCSs. My PS4 does this and its something I like to slap a few Sony guys for. The problem is when the fan is at the air outlet its sucking air from inside the box/cabinet which reduces the air pressure inside the box/cabinet. It will then suck in dust from any and every place it can be sucked.
Having run a cheap desktop CNC mill for many years myself, I would highly recommend using a single flute endmill. You get a much better finish, better clean-out, and lower overall load. Plus, if you are machining plastic rather than aluminum, your cut speed can be greatly increased. I did many many parts in type 2 PVC, UHMW, medium and light density polyethylene, and PTFE. Heck, some of your aluminum parts on this CNC can be re-machined in PVC for a more dimensionally accurate part. Also, you really need to put flexible couplers on the stepper motors. The threaded rod has a run out, even if it's very small. The flexible coupler will keep that run out from transferring into the stepper motor's bearings, thus increasing the stepper's life.
@James M. : Do you have a preferred type of flexible coupler? I see people complaining of failure of the single-piece alloy versions with the helical slot cut in them. Are the three-part versions with a "+" shaped neoprene centre preferable? Thanks.
@John Colvin For small desktop mills, I've run the aluminum helical couplers for hundreds of hours. But, you do need to make sure there is no axial misalignment. They can take a degree or two of radial but will quickly fatigue with axial issues. The ones with the rubber spacer have the same problem. Only thing is they will break other things in the drive before they fail. Your best bet for the best coverage is an Oldham coupler with a single flex plate on one end. An Oldham coupler has two dovetail joints at right angles from each other. That way, they can slide to allow for axial misalignment. The flex plate will compensate for any radial misalignment. You could run a multi-section flex plate, but those are very pricey.
@@jameslmorehead : Thanks for that. I saw a simple arrangement I was thinking I might try: (the one I saw was using a cheap Chinese stepper that has the motor shaft and lead-screw all in one.) The stepper is connected to the ball-screw by a non-flexible coupling... the stepper itself is attached to a flexible plate, effectively working as a flexure. This allows some axial movement, but controls rotational and radial movement. There is no bearing at the driven end... axial forces are controlled by a thrust bearing at the non-driven end. Admittedly the machine I saw was a laser, so there was only minimal loads, but anything I tackle will only be small. It worked well, and was a tidy installation. (I must put Gurgle to work checking out the Oldham coupler! 😉 )
@@PiefacePete46 Also keep in mind, on the scale of small to medium desktop CNC equipment, a deep groove ball bearing can carry a surprising amount of axial load. I'd be weary of the lead screw and stepper motor combos. They have to skimp somewhere. Plus, you don't want the axial load going into the stepper motor. They have a spring inside to take up axial play, and these springs don't have much force to them. You can easily get a hard to trace inaccuracy from this type of issue.
@@jameslmorehead : Thanks, I appreciate it... I would be best to avoid trying unconventional solutions at the start... if it was that good everyone would be doing it! 😜
I don't think a larger diameter lead screw would add any significant advantage. Perhaps swap from a trapezoidal lead screw to a ball lead screw would be beneficial in reducing friction and back lash, but that was already discussed. As he's not dealing with a large build volume, with vast spans of unsupported lead screw, there shouldn't be any problems. Due to the addition of linear bearing rod, and linear bearings, the only forces on the lead screw would be compression, and tension (pushing and pulling) along it's length. As he's not dealing with significantly strong materials, or exceptionally high torque motors here, those shouldn't be excessive enough in this situation to warrant a thicker lead screw in my opinion.... however.. if he's willing to spend the $$, by all means, go for it XD
I've watched the first part and it was a great idea cheap cnc for me. I knew, it was too weak a construction to cut metal, so I waited for the project upgrade. In fact, this time, and despite few changes, the machine is cool. I would like to have something similar on this level for myself. I am a layman in these matters, only for some time I started to be interested in CNC machining. I am waiting for more videos and projects showing the possibilities of your machine. Greetings from Poland.
Such an idea for several episodes will surely be quite spectacular and popular. Diesel engine, from the injection pump and injectors to the whole old style engine.
You’ve already got it in great detail…. I’ve read a decent amount of the reactions to your initial upload of this DIY build gem. And i did notice that you take the provided info very seriously and put everything to good use. The result of this build speaks for itself, and it turns out beautiful. You could use 1 or 2mm thick rubber mats for the protection against burs and sliced up loosen material from falling into the frame square/rectangular. By using lubricants to extend your tools lifetime, both wd40 and alcohol based solutions as well just water i warn you that these are all way too thin in viscosity and will have little effect on the purpose of the projective. Be aware that most of the different sort aluminum grades are manipulated in molten state by adding silicate and even harder stone-like materials that will destroy your tools and blunt them way faster than you would think. I mean, silicate is just beach sand. Try little more grease-like substances in small amounts while surface cutting and edge smoothening. Just don’t use grease while cutting inside slots because that will cause the phenomenon “re-chipping” and wear out your tool rapidly plus putting lots of heat in your material to the extent of destroying the tool and failing your end product measurement, looks in surface roughness. I cannot express how grateful I am having you provide me with this back to back build of a CNC-milling machine. Thanks isn’t somehow cutting it 😉
A good machine has to be heavy. With a heavier machine you get better finish and precision. As said below try to keep everything as short as possible. Rigidity is the most important in a machine. You have to get rid of those chips while you machine, they can even break the tool. Try using a roughing end mill, to cut out most of the material and then finish it, with a finishing cutter.
If you can get an Ø8 tolerence rod, you can balance the original fan for the motor. You could also just print a new one and balance that since the original isn't super effective. Just put the Ø8 rod through the fan and with some excess rod on both sides, you've essentially got a wheel balancer, just put 2 rods parallel with eachother on a very level surface and put the fan on those. If the fan rolls and stops, it's out of balance. I balanced my original 500W motor fan with a couple of very small bearing balls since it was WAY out of balance. Now when running the spindle at the lowest speed it runs very crooked but at 11k RPM there's absolutely no vibrations.
That two lead screw approach is also what I came up with for a CNC machine design. Its simple, cheap and easy to repair ... but it will increase friction. However if you are milling metal a little extra force required should not matter!
Instead of tightening the nuts together with nothing to constrain the compression, either shims should be used under one of the nuts, or the mounting holes should be slotted to allow it to be rotated. This way the backlash can be minimised without introducing excessive friction (and the resulting wear).
Use alcohol instead of wd40 your endmills will last longer and you won’t have a messy work areas. Awesome video you put a lot of hours into this upgrade.
I don't advise using alcohol when dealing with CNC machining for several reasons 1) While Alcohol will evaporate, and can dissipate some heat, at a certain point during the machining cycle, heat buildup will far exceed the minute benefits alcohol provides with concern to heat removal, at which time, it actually flashes off too fast, removing even less heat with it. 2) Heat build up increases the speed at which alcohol evaporates, thus increasing the amount of alcohol vapor in the air. This is a fire hazard for very little benefit. This is particularly dangerous when dealing with unknown aluminum alloys, many of which contain zinc or magnesium. 3) Alcohol function quite poorly as a lubricant. The viscosity is far too low, and it's high flash-off speed prevents it from being very effective. 4) While alcohol may be cheaper than WD-40 by weight... It simply doesn't last very long, meaning you will use more and more of it as the part heats up during the machining cycle. This will end up being more expensive compared to using almost any other lubricant such as WD-40, or other such light machine oil based lubricants. WD-40 is not only a perfectly acceptable lubricant for Aluminum machining, it's also one of the most preferred methods by hobbyists and professionals world wide. Unless you're using a VMC or other such high-speed CNC center that uses exotic oil suspension coolants, WD-40 is the go to for soft / gummy materials such as aluminum and copper. that is for a few significant reasons: 1) It acts as a lubricant, which aids in the machining process by reducing friction and heat. 2) It acts as a release agent. If you've ever machined aluminum, you've probably run into a situation where chip evacuation issues, and heat lead to aluminum chips "sticking" to the flutes of the end mill. This is called "Chip-Weld" and is a major factor in reduced tool life, and surface finish problems. 3) Because WD-40 has a high flash-off point, and high viscosity than water or alcohol, it tends to "stick" to parts and tools, maintain a layer of protection throughout the machining cycle, and reducing the amount needed over all, as reapplication is less frequent.
Yes and no. On the right Aluminum most people will used WD40 but on other things Isopropyl Alcohol and other things stuff like Anchorlube or Trefolex. Stefan Gotteswinter has some good info on cutting fluids.
If you just make an oversized plastic nut it is naturally zero backlash. Plastic is elastic. Plastic is self lubricating too. Plastic is just another form of oil. You do have to sacrifice some lead screw to make a tap to tap your lead nuts. I found that I had to expand the thread a little or the nuts would be too tight. I just hit a few of the threads with a punch. That blew them out so they cut the threads wide enough. You're still going to get some flex with those unsupported round linear guide bars. Rounds just flex.
Actually ... Earlier I wrote that you should keep the plastic parts. 50 minutes later I return to write a correction to that suggestion. :) -I recommend that you replace the plastic parts used in the frame, by metal parts (aluminum should be fine). Eg. the triangles making up the corners are of interest. If you do this, it should make it much more stable / rigid - and reduce chatter even more.
Nice. The only thing i could add to this is that you could try to use isopropanol or denatured alcohol as cutting fluid. This makes cutting and tapping aluminum muuuuuch easier.
Nice job, shows what can be done with a bit of effort! Should use shims under one of the leadscrew nuts to adjust backlash and allow the mounting screws to be fully tightened without introducing excessive friction.
Suggest you use Klipper, open source g-code to stepper driver with inputshaping capability plus put a magnet and a hall effect sensor for never skipping a step ever again and now you can run your steppers at full power without fear they will miss steps
Hey my man, great couple videos I watched. I watched the original build for this one as well. I'm glad that you upgraded your vertical supports. I thought they looked pretty weak on the original. Not weak, just not rigid. I felt the same way about the corner brackets on the base. If I can make a suggestion to you, it would be to get rid of all your 3-d printed parts. That's a great idea for a 3-d printer or light duty router, but I'm quite frankly surprised that it works as well as it does for your heavier duty milling. I would absolutely upgrade the 3-d parts to all aluminium to further enhance the rigidity. You may also want to try linear slide rails instead of the round ones, but that's less of an issue. Keep up the great work my man!!
You have a lot of good ideas. Have you seen reduced backlash design that uses two acme nuts with a spring between them? It reduces friction without need for adjustment.
Ive been building a CNC mill for about a year now and I just upgraded from the "ubiquitous 500W Chinese spindles" to the Carbide 3d compact router and it was a world of difference for me. $80 for the spindle and $80 for the mount, much higher quality, less noise, higher rpm so faster speeds, and a fan that clears light chips from the cutter. It's not much of an upgrade in terms of horse power but 1/8" end mills and 1 flute 1/4" end mills don't require more than 1 HP in most cases anyway.
8:00 they sell 5 foot long (1500mm) version of these with the pillow blocks, leadscrew, screw nut, 2 linear rails, 4 linear blocks, and a stepper coupler for 150$ on amazon
Incredible project, I congratulate you, you have put a lot of effort into it and it turned out spectacular. Hopefully you could post more details or plans about the general measurements of the whole machine, to see if I can make one for myself. Congratulations.
Hey man.. I saw u took the Fan off the China spindle u got. I've bought one of them as well as a replacement for the Genmitsu GS-775 I bought. I've noticed a lotta chatter from it. I will use it for something else. The generic spindle from China has had good reviews but u never know what ur gonna git from that place. Thanks for the Free CAD bro. I will download it as soon as once I build my CNC..
looking good, 1 issue though. your heat sink on the spindle is now an insulator keeping in the heat. the double sided tape is insulation and will not let heat transferto the cooling fins. must be metal to metal contact to draw out the heat
@@HyperspacePirate i recommend putting the heatsinks back on, but use a combination of thermal paste and thermal epoxy. Use thermal paste in the center of the heatsink, and thermal epoxy around the edges of the heatsink to seal in the thermal paste + secure the heatsink to the motor. Thermal paste generally has a much higher thermal conductivity than thermal epoxy. You could probably just use thermal paste + normal epoxy if you want to save money. This will do a much better job of keeping the motor cool.
Hola me gusta mucho tu video, estoy preparando la máquina muy parecida a la tuya, he comprado los mismos motores de los ejes x,y,z pero la placa controladora no tiene suficiente fuerza para mover el motor se mueve pero con poca fuerza, podrías echarme una mano con la parte eléctrica? Qué placa controladora tienes puesta o mandar el enlace de compra Gracias
Does FreeCAD allow you to have a Milling Toolpath generated where it will mill a given depth twice - Once without a clearance offset and once with thus creating a wider channel for chips to evacuate into and not be bogging down the Endmill on subsequent passes? If not, I'd strongly encourage you to drop it like ASAP for the free F360 License allowing you to do that for a much more preferrable surface finish when working with underperforming hobbyist machines.
@@HyperspacePirate Nope, I'm talking about what F360 is calling a roughing pass. I was kinda having the impression that the channels you're cutting are only as wide as your bit and without you flushing the material out before it comes along for the either a springpass or the next depth you most likely regrinding those chips still in the channel. With a roughing pass you'll first mill with like a 1mm offset followed by the actual pass you intend to make near the part but now at least your unevacuated chips have a place to go and thus not getting in the way of the Endmill while its _actually_ engaging the part. I'd describe it as a poor man's adaptive clearing - Still won't allow you to go balls deep with the cutter because after all the roughing pass is as wide as the entire cutter but at least you're regrinding your chips because you don't have a way of evacuating it ( I for one have an MDF Spoilboard so Flood Cooling is an absolute NoGo )
Do you think there is any benefit in using the linear guide rails and blocks used in the Z axis for the X and Y axis for improved rigidity? Cheers and thanks for sharing a great video.
Hello, Im building a similar machine, thanks to you. What did you use to power the shield and the drivers? If you used the 100DC Power supply from the spindle, how did you get to the 24V required? (for the shield) (assuming that the small buck convertor I saw in the electronic box is not enough). I would like to avoid using another 20V power supply, thanks in advance for your response
@flat-earther sorry not in the slightest, I've been high enough in altitude to be convinced of a spherical earth...but in contrast I'm not convinced I'm living in just the 3rd dimension so there maybe some wiggle room there. What evidence do you have that can shift my understanding 🤔
you can get ballscrews from china with 5-10x cheaper. yes they are not perfect, but with average luck far better than regular brass ones with a slop. I actually thought about idea on adding two to make it tight. good to see that someone implemented it and it works :)
I would wonder how much of that surface finish is due to the chips being stuck inside the cut path instead of being evacuated. Definitely not bad for a cnc made with 3D printed brackets 👍.
I was wondering if you're getting any backlash from the axial play in the stepper motor shaft? Or are you anchoring the lead screw with a low backlash bearing on the opposite end.
Nice! As an add on would a blower hose that moves side to side on one side that blows towards a powerful vacuum with a broad intake on the other side help to blow off and collect the debris from what you are working on?
Nice upgrade! Btw you can GET Wy cheaper ballscrews, got some for mine but been lazy to convert. Also another option is to get some nuts with anti-backlash builtin. I have some problem is they are a bigger.
Great upgrade i watched the first build and started to assemble the parts but now seeing this it looks much better great job 👍👍👍 do you maybe have the 3D files for printing for the upgrade ??
Many thanks for your great video, I am on the process for helping a capenter guy near my home to build one of the wood carving CNC based on your video! However he wanted to build a bigger one with more load (1m-Wx2m-L). I am thinking of a two stepper motors for Y axis but I am worrying that if one of a side motor failed, the Y axis may cause problem. Do you have any idea for fault protection to avoid such case? Please advice with thanks!
You just use motors and drives that don't fail. When you're running open loop that's the only strategy that works. Go big or go home. What you need to understand is what makes a good stepper motor for CNC. You want a low inductance low voltage high current motor. Learn how to read torque curves. Holding torque is meaningless. You need torque at speed. It is also critical to set the current right on a drive for the motor you're running. More is not better. Stepper motors get hot in use but way too hot is not good. Running rough is not good. Drives with switches to set the current are horsecrap. That stuff ain't right. Performance comes with tuning. Learn how step sequences work. Then you can set the current right at the peak step. Under current performs better than over current does. Bench run your motors and understand how they operate. Figuring this stuff out when it is on the machine is a nightmare. You're probably going to buy cheap Chinese stepper motors. Oh well you'll learn. Spend more and get Japanese motors. Vextas are nice. Finally never ever disconnect a stepper motor from the drive while it is powered up. Or you'll get a lesson in what back EMF is.
This is great, I may try this myself when I'll have the balls for this XD However, you didn't explain why you used new motors. Also, do you think using POM leadscrew nuts can reudce friction ?
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There is nothing more satisfying than watching a video from a few years ago on a channel you've never seen and then seeing there's a follow-up video available!
1. Most CNC machines in the shop will use a filter on the air intake of the electronics to keep dirt and chips out. That should be an easy mod. 2. Use an air blower or preferably an air mister with coolant to blow away the chips to get a better finish. 3. Try to have the end mill stick out of the collet as short as possible to keep the tool from flexing... Awesome project!
Could use second hand mask as air filter. But make sure disinfect it.
Yeah eventually I'll probably set up a solenoid for compressed air + relay for a vacuum on a 555 timer to come on every so often for a second or two
@@HyperspacePirate Great job. How do I privately discuss with you?
I can provide high-quality low-cost processing services. If you need mass production of this product, you can contact me, and the cost will save you 40% to 50%.
You are on the right track with the box. I am a control systems engineer.
This is my explanation to everyone.
You need to make the air in the box slightly higher pressure than the outside.
So you need your fan to suck through a fine filter and *PUSH* the clean air into the box or cabinet.
You'll find many electrical devices have the fan on the outlet of the ventilation system. Go look at the PSU on most desk top PCSs. My PS4 does this and its something I like to slap a few Sony guys for.
The problem is when the fan is at the air outlet its sucking air from inside the box/cabinet which reduces the air pressure inside the box/cabinet. It will then suck in dust from any and every place it can be sucked.
If you aren't happy with the side wall surface finishes, you should create a roughing tool path leaving a few thou of excess stock on the walls, and a secondary "finishing" tool-path to clean them up.. you'll want to reduce the travel speed, full depth of cut minus about a thousandths so you don't mar up the floor finish (only applicable to parts with a floor to finish), and skim the edges to remove the excess stock you left in the first operation, as well as cleaning up, and leaving a uniform wall surface finish.
It's common in CNC machining to create multiple operations like this. roughing passes care little about surface finish, it's all about removing material as fast as possible, and a secondary clean-up pass to remove the last bit of stock and leave an acceptable surface finish.
Hope this was helpful :)
also, with aluminum especially, you might want to make sure you are using the right endmill and feed rates.
@@en2oh setting up an mql spray would probably also do wonders.
This is a godsend. I recently tore down a couple 3d printers I don't use anymore and wanted to convert them into a CNC machine exactly like this. I was just to lazy to design anything and am still a beginner with cad software. This is awesome.
Really a good build-series. Even though you've used a few Chinese parts, your build is already much better than a chinese CNC.
There are a few things I noticed ...
1: Please don't use double sided tape for attaching the heatsinks; double-sided tape (especially foam-tape) insulates against heat and thus keep the heat inside the part you wish to cool down. Instead you can use DOW Corning 340 if you can mount the heatsink using bolts (DOW Corning 340 is not adhesive). Stepper motors do not need to be cooled; most people make the mistake that they think they should not get hot. Normal working temperature for a stepper motor is 60°C (which is: not boiling, but you do not want to touch the motor). If you can't mount the heatsinks using bolts, there are still a few adhesive heatsink compounds available (I know Arctic make some, but they're hard to get as they're epoxy based and are usually sold to companies in larger quantities). Epoxy-based heatsink compounds *can* be mixed with non-adhesive variants, to make it possible to remove the heatsink if necessary; you'll have to experiment with the mixing ratio, though.
2: You could use double-sided tape for the parts you're milling. Stick the aluminum block onto the build-plate with double-sided tape, then keep the holding tabs (at 11:20) and let the CNC remove those gently as the last step - then you hav a part which is ready to use when the CNC is done.
3: A4988 is a good stepper driver to test with; but try upgrading to TMC2209, they should make smoother movements, which will minimize the chatter and thus resulting in a smoother surface on the part. BiQu's TMC2209 v1.2 is currently the best driver (don't get fooled by other manufacturer's v2.0 or v2.2 or 3.x). IMPORTANT: Remember to disconnect all motors, then adjust vREF so it matches your motors and finally connect the motors. If you start by connecting the motors, you'll likely fry the TMC2209's MOSFET (like I did, because I forgot).
4: Arduino is also a good and easy start, however, upgrading to a ARM Cortex-M4 board (recommend STM32F4-based), then you will get floating point calculations and 32-bit calculations at a much higher speed, which in the end means you'll be able to get the ability to calculate curves (bezierpaths) - again, this improves the quality of the workpiece.
5: When I saw your first build, I was thinking that you could probably create your own spindle from good quality ball-bearings and a 10mm shaft; then power that spindle by the motor. Note: Roller-skate bearings are cheap and fairly good quality (I think they're actually 8mm, so you'd probably have to use an 8mm shaft).
6: The 2020 aluminum profiles used for the frame have a circular center, where you can tap a thread; then drill a hole in the connecting piece for a bolt and tighten this to get better rigidity; keep the plastic, so you'll get as much rigidity as possible.
About heatsink compound (10 years ago, I worked with this for living) - apply one drop-size heatsink compound per square-inch. Spread it evenly over the surface using a razor blade. It should be a layer thinner than a piece of paper. The job of the heatsink compound is to remove airgaps between the two surfaces and otherwise be "invisible". It should not insulate. Tighten the bolts holding the heatsink as much as possible (without breaking the threads of course).
I know you'll probably not implement all my suggestions, but if you (or someone else) can use just one of them, then it's been worth writing it. =)
I believe the "double sided foam" he used are actually thermal pads: specifically designed for use in IT heat transfer. Otherwise your advice is solid😁👍...
@@brazenh2836 - I wrote a reply, but it was lost due to YT's "hip-hopper features".
Yes, the thermal pads can be used, but you really want to transfer as much heat into the heatsink as possible.
-So if you're able to, go for a proper job with heatsink compound or adhesive heatsink compound if necessary.
I was right... I WAS RIGHT!!! The moment I saw you demonstrating the lack of rigidity in your previous video, I knew we were in for a treat when you addressed the problem.
This is GREAT! You now have a tool that I am sure we will see get more refinement and tuning in the future... you have opened up a "Pandora's box" of possibilities, I will wait with bated breath.
Many thanks, Liked and Subscribed.
What I like about ur CNC mill is that it isn't so damn expensive to build like the other designs and you can learn way more than on the other ones when you upgrade it over time
On the backlash. Their are backlash nuts that are designed to use a spring to push them apart and they are pretty cheap. The benefit is that since your causing more friction the nut will wear out faster and the spring ensures it stays in good contact despite wear.
Very nice build. Using a backlash nut instead of two individual nuts might make for a simpler mounting bracket, but the effect is essentially the same as what you've done here.
Do you have experience with them?
Just stumbled across this video today. Pretty impressive. Goes to show you, when there's a will, there's a way.
Since you already have access to Aluminum and a way to cut it you can replace all the 3D printed gussets with Aluminum for more rigidity. Also, the whole back of the X gantry can be a slab of Aluminum and you can bolt linear rails to. OR, you can build a V2 and forego all TSlot entirely and use Linear Rails bolted to Aluminum slabs. Just ideas; I understand that $$$ doesn't grow on trees.
Your projects are incredible! They are the perfect mix of using minimal tools to maximise result with clever design.
Thanks for the ideas, I am doing a similar project, the dual lead nut idea is genius.
Thank you very much
It's improving. Thanks for the update. Blow the debris away and shorten the free shank of the tool, and the parts will be more accurately made.
Dude you are awesome! You've presented us with a step by step DIY CNC all while keeping budget in mind! Thank you and your videos are my favorite :)
@johnnytheprick I can provide high-quality low-cost processing services. If you need mass production of this product, you can contact me, and the cost will save you 40% to 50%.
Which one would you advise then?
Dang thats cool. Definitely consider an air assist, maybe look into one of those amazon electric air dusters, that could work and keep the size down. Maybe replace some of the plastic parts with exact aluminum replacements, to see if there are any immediate improvements in rigidity? Cool vid!
*TO ALL THE WAY TO KEEP STUFF OUT OF AN ELECTRICAL BOX OR CABINET IS POSITIVE PRESSURE.*
You need to make the air in the box slightly higher pressure than the outside.
So you need your fan to suck through a fine filter and *PUSH* the clean air into the box or cabinet.
You'll find many electrical devices have the fan on the outlet of the ventilation system. Go look at the PSU on most desk top PCSs. My PS4 does this and its something I like to slap a few Sony guys for.
The problem is when the fan is at the air outlet its sucking air from inside the box/cabinet which reduces the air pressure inside the box/cabinet. It will then suck in dust from any and every place it can be sucked.
Having run a cheap desktop CNC mill for many years myself, I would highly recommend using a single flute endmill. You get a much better finish, better clean-out, and lower overall load. Plus, if you are machining plastic rather than aluminum, your cut speed can be greatly increased. I did many many parts in type 2 PVC, UHMW, medium and light density polyethylene, and PTFE. Heck, some of your aluminum parts on this CNC can be re-machined in PVC for a more dimensionally accurate part.
Also, you really need to put flexible couplers on the stepper motors. The threaded rod has a run out, even if it's very small. The flexible coupler will keep that run out from transferring into the stepper motor's bearings, thus increasing the stepper's life.
@James M. : Do you have a preferred type of flexible coupler? I see people complaining of failure of the single-piece alloy versions with the helical slot cut in them. Are the three-part versions with a "+" shaped neoprene centre preferable? Thanks.
@John Colvin For small desktop mills, I've run the aluminum helical couplers for hundreds of hours. But, you do need to make sure there is no axial misalignment. They can take a degree or two of radial but will quickly fatigue with axial issues. The ones with the rubber spacer have the same problem. Only thing is they will break other things in the drive before they fail. Your best bet for the best coverage is an Oldham coupler with a single flex plate on one end. An Oldham coupler has two dovetail joints at right angles from each other. That way, they can slide to allow for axial misalignment. The flex plate will compensate for any radial misalignment. You could run a multi-section flex plate, but those are very pricey.
@@jameslmorehead : Thanks for that. I saw a simple arrangement I was thinking I might try: (the one I saw was using a cheap Chinese stepper that has the motor shaft and lead-screw all in one.) The stepper is connected to the ball-screw by a non-flexible coupling... the stepper itself is attached to a flexible plate, effectively working as a flexure. This allows some axial movement, but controls rotational and radial movement. There is no bearing at the driven end... axial forces are controlled by a thrust bearing at the non-driven end.
Admittedly the machine I saw was a laser, so there was only minimal loads, but anything I tackle will only be small. It worked well, and was a tidy installation.
(I must put Gurgle to work checking out the Oldham coupler! 😉 )
@@PiefacePete46 Also keep in mind, on the scale of small to medium desktop CNC equipment, a deep groove ball bearing can carry a surprising amount of axial load.
I'd be weary of the lead screw and stepper motor combos. They have to skimp somewhere. Plus, you don't want the axial load going into the stepper motor. They have a spring inside to take up axial play, and these springs don't have much force to them. You can easily get a hard to trace inaccuracy from this type of issue.
@@jameslmorehead : Thanks, I appreciate it... I would be best to avoid trying unconventional solutions at the start... if it was that good everyone would be doing it! 😜
Very nice! I think your design choices are quite effective.
The only thing I would recommend is to use a 10mm screw instead of 8mm
I don't think a larger diameter lead screw would add any significant advantage. Perhaps swap from a trapezoidal lead screw to a ball lead screw would be beneficial in reducing friction and back lash, but that was already discussed.
As he's not dealing with a large build volume, with vast spans of unsupported lead screw, there shouldn't be any problems. Due to the addition of linear bearing rod, and linear bearings, the only forces on the lead screw would be compression, and tension (pushing and pulling) along it's length. As he's not dealing with significantly strong materials, or exceptionally high torque motors here, those shouldn't be excessive enough in this situation to warrant a thicker lead screw in my opinion.... however.. if he's willing to spend the $$, by all means, go for it XD
I've watched the first part and it was a great idea cheap cnc for me. I knew, it was too weak a construction to cut metal, so I waited for the project upgrade. In fact, this time, and despite few changes, the machine is cool. I would like to have something similar on this level for myself. I am a layman in these matters, only for some time I started to be interested in CNC machining. I am waiting for more videos and projects showing the possibilities of your machine. Greetings from Poland.
Holy....1st thougt ...He totally builds his cnc new...that's expansiv...but finally it works great...well done!
Such an idea for several episodes will surely be quite spectacular and popular. Diesel engine, from the injection pump and injectors to the whole old style engine.
You’ve already got it in great detail…. I’ve read a decent amount of the reactions to your initial upload of this DIY build gem. And i did notice that you take the provided info very seriously and put everything to good use. The result of this build speaks for itself, and it turns out beautiful. You could use 1 or 2mm thick rubber mats for the protection against burs and sliced up loosen material from falling into the frame square/rectangular. By using lubricants to extend your tools lifetime, both wd40 and alcohol based solutions as well just water i warn you that these are all way too thin in viscosity and will have little effect on the purpose of the projective. Be aware that most of the different sort aluminum grades are manipulated in molten state by adding silicate and even harder stone-like materials that will destroy your tools and blunt them way faster than you would think. I mean, silicate is just beach sand. Try little more grease-like substances in small amounts while surface cutting and edge smoothening. Just don’t use grease while cutting inside slots because that will cause the phenomenon “re-chipping” and wear out your tool rapidly plus putting lots of heat in your material to the extent of destroying the tool and failing your end product measurement, looks in surface roughness.
I cannot express how grateful I am having you provide me with this back to back build of a CNC-milling machine. Thanks isn’t somehow cutting it 😉
A good machine has to be heavy. With a heavier machine you get better finish and precision. As said below try to keep everything as short as possible. Rigidity is the most important in a machine. You have to get rid of those chips while you machine, they can even break the tool. Try using a roughing end mill, to cut out most of the material and then finish it, with a finishing cutter.
Cool video..Design Engineer+CNC Programmer+Cnc Machining+mechanical/electric/electronics/Mechatronics assembly u can do everything lol..what a talent
Good work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
If you can get an Ø8 tolerence rod, you can balance the original fan for the motor. You could also just print a new one and balance that since the original isn't super effective.
Just put the Ø8 rod through the fan and with some excess rod on both sides, you've essentially got a wheel balancer, just put 2 rods parallel with eachother on a very level surface and put the fan on those. If the fan rolls and stops, it's out of balance.
I balanced my original 500W motor fan with a couple of very small bearing balls since it was WAY out of balance. Now when running the spindle at the lowest speed it runs very crooked but at 11k RPM there's absolutely no vibrations.
That two lead screw approach is also what I came up with for a CNC machine design. Its simple, cheap and easy to repair ... but it will increase friction. However if you are milling metal a little extra force required should not matter!
Instead of tightening the nuts together with nothing to constrain the compression, either shims should be used under one of the nuts, or the mounting holes should be slotted to allow it to be rotated. This way the backlash can be minimised without introducing excessive friction (and the resulting wear).
Use alcohol instead of wd40 your endmills will last longer and you won’t have a messy work areas. Awesome video you put a lot of hours into this upgrade.
Good for the endmills and the operator
Yes! Alcohol is the only coolant to be used for aluminum. Keeps the aluminum from gumming up.
I don't advise using alcohol when dealing with CNC machining for several reasons
1) While Alcohol will evaporate, and can dissipate some heat, at a certain point during the machining cycle, heat buildup will far exceed the minute benefits alcohol provides with concern to heat removal, at which time, it actually flashes off too fast, removing even less heat with it.
2) Heat build up increases the speed at which alcohol evaporates, thus increasing the amount of alcohol vapor in the air. This is a fire hazard for very little benefit. This is particularly dangerous when dealing with unknown aluminum alloys, many of which contain zinc or magnesium.
3) Alcohol function quite poorly as a lubricant. The viscosity is far too low, and it's high flash-off speed prevents it from being very effective.
4) While alcohol may be cheaper than WD-40 by weight... It simply doesn't last very long, meaning you will use more and more of it as the part heats up during the machining cycle. This will end up being more expensive compared to using almost any other lubricant such as WD-40, or other such light machine oil based lubricants.
WD-40 is not only a perfectly acceptable lubricant for Aluminum machining, it's also one of the most preferred methods by hobbyists and professionals world wide. Unless you're using a VMC or other such high-speed CNC center that uses exotic oil suspension coolants, WD-40 is the go to for soft / gummy materials such as aluminum and copper.
that is for a few significant reasons:
1) It acts as a lubricant, which aids in the machining process by reducing friction and heat.
2) It acts as a release agent. If you've ever machined aluminum, you've probably run into a situation where chip evacuation issues, and heat lead to aluminum chips "sticking" to the flutes of the end mill. This is called "Chip-Weld" and is a major factor in reduced tool life, and surface finish problems.
3) Because WD-40 has a high flash-off point, and high viscosity than water or alcohol, it tends to "stick" to parts and tools, maintain a layer of protection throughout the machining cycle, and reducing the amount needed over all, as reapplication is less frequent.
Yes and no.
On the right Aluminum most people will used WD40 but on other things Isopropyl Alcohol and other things stuff like Anchorlube or Trefolex.
Stefan Gotteswinter has some good info on cutting fluids.
@@ArcAiN6 Datron use denatured ethanol on the neo as a MQL so it seems its perfectly acceptable. Or atleast good enough for Datron.
With the update the machine seems to be more solid ! Great job and video to watch. Thanks
If you just make an oversized plastic nut it is naturally zero backlash. Plastic is elastic. Plastic is self lubricating too. Plastic is just another form of oil. You do have to sacrifice some lead screw to make a tap to tap your lead nuts. I found that I had to expand the thread a little or the nuts would be too tight. I just hit a few of the threads with a punch. That blew them out so they cut the threads wide enough. You're still going to get some flex with those unsupported round linear guide bars. Rounds just flex.
Always a good day when you upload man. Super nice upgrade.
Actually ... Earlier I wrote that you should keep the plastic parts.
50 minutes later I return to write a correction to that suggestion. :)
-I recommend that you replace the plastic parts used in the frame, by metal parts (aluminum should be fine). Eg. the triangles making up the corners are of interest.
If you do this, it should make it much more stable / rigid - and reduce chatter even more.
Все на высоте! И речь, и 3D печать и фрезеровка! Браво!
Nice. The only thing i could add to this is that you could try to use isopropanol or denatured alcohol as cutting fluid. This makes cutting and tapping aluminum muuuuuch easier.
Adding springs to the ball screw nuts can take up backlash as well, sick build!
Won't do you any good for machining metal. Just get a ballscrew. What are you saving $40 for? Beer?
Came looking for this vid after watching the first one. Fascinating vid mate! Amazing job👍🏼
Nice job, shows what can be done with a bit of effort! Should use shims under one of the leadscrew nuts to adjust backlash and allow the mounting screws to be fully tightened without introducing excessive friction.
Thank you for sharing, maybe you can use the PWM from Arduino and with a relay you can turn on/off the spindel and contol the speed from G-Code also.
Suggest you use Klipper, open source g-code to stepper driver with inputshaping capability
plus put a magnet and a hall effect sensor for never skipping a step ever again and now you can run your steppers at full power without fear they will miss steps
Like you said before, it's hard to get good CNC under 100 buck, we must invest more to get better result
Hey my man, great couple videos I watched. I watched the original build for this one as well.
I'm glad that you upgraded your vertical supports. I thought they looked pretty weak on the original. Not weak, just not rigid. I felt the same way about the corner brackets on the base.
If I can make a suggestion to you, it would be to get rid of all your 3-d printed parts. That's a great idea for a 3-d printer or light duty router, but I'm quite frankly surprised that it works as well as it does for your heavier duty milling. I would absolutely upgrade the 3-d parts to all aluminium to further enhance the rigidity. You may also want to try linear slide rails instead of the round ones, but that's less of an issue.
Keep up the great work my man!!
Catia V5 serious piece of kit!!!!!!
It is interesting how were made first machine tools when there were no machine tools?
An interesting topic to discuss
first machines were built by hand , then improved version were built with those machines , and with those machines etc.
@@chriskwakernaat2328 I'm curious about how were made first rotary parts like spindles or shafts
@@HaasMill They make cylindrical parts on lathes. Lathes have been around for thousands of years.
You are a patient person.
I wish I had friends like you
You have a lot of good ideas. Have you seen reduced backlash design that uses two acme nuts with a spring between them? It reduces friction without need for adjustment.
It reduce capability due to spring load.
I aspire to design and build this excellently
How's the plastic holding up? Any plans to swap out the 3D printed plastic parts for self machined aluminum or other material?
Bravo 👏... Really nicely done... on the web now looking for parts to start my own CNC journey.
Wait so Your home is 3 km wide and has a cloathing cleaning facility? That's amazing. Good job.
expecting that the next upgrade would be increasing its area for working and we love to see that.
BTW this video deserve a subscribe
FreeCad, great software. interesting build.
Ive been building a CNC mill for about a year now and I just upgraded from the "ubiquitous 500W Chinese spindles" to the Carbide 3d compact router and it was a world of difference for me. $80 for the spindle and $80 for the mount, much higher quality, less noise, higher rpm so faster speeds, and a fan that clears light chips from the cutter. It's not much of an upgrade in terms of horse power but 1/8" end mills and 1 flute 1/4" end mills don't require more than 1 HP in most cases anyway.
8:00 they sell 5 foot long (1500mm) version of these with the pillow blocks, leadscrew, screw nut, 2 linear rails, 4 linear blocks, and a stepper coupler for 150$ on amazon
You sir definitely deserve my subscribe, keep up the good work
Awesome, Now a 5 axis version.
: )
I also recently found downloaded Freecad, but not yet experimented with it.
a little 1 gallon flood coolant setup would save a lot of babysitting
KSP beat drop, nice
elegant and convincing job.
Very impressive! Great job!
Я тоже пошел твоим путём и собрал ЧПУ на валах, но в итоге собрал совершенно новый на рельсах MGN 15.
Incredible project, I congratulate you, you have put a lot of effort into it and it turned out spectacular. Hopefully you could post more details or plans about the general measurements of the whole machine, to see if I can make one for myself. Congratulations.
I applaud this project but some of those parts look like they we gnawed into shape by a beaver. 😂
It's one of the ways I keep the animals in my menagerie busy and fit
@@HyperspacePirate It goes to show we place too high a regard to how things look rather than how they work.
@@DanT10 actually im just lazy
Great stuff man.
This is great! Thank you for sharing. I am getting ready to build a combat robot and looking for a CNC mill that will be affordable and hackable.
Hey man.. I saw u took the Fan off the China spindle u got. I've bought one of them as well as a replacement for the Genmitsu GS-775 I bought. I've noticed a lotta chatter from it. I will use it for something else. The generic spindle from China has had good reviews but u never know what ur gonna git from that place. Thanks for the Free CAD bro. I will download it as soon as once I build my CNC..
Great build! Would it be possible to mount a vacuum cleaner head right next to the mill for it to suck up all debris as it goes?
looking good, 1 issue though. your heat sink on the spindle is now an insulator keeping in the heat. the double sided tape is insulation and will not let heat transferto the cooling fins. must be metal to metal contact to draw out the heat
It's thermal tape, but yeah, the heat sink was totally useless. I just run a large fan next to the CNC to keep it cool now
@@HyperspacePirate i recommend putting the heatsinks back on, but use a combination of thermal paste and thermal epoxy.
Use thermal paste in the center of the heatsink, and thermal epoxy around the edges of the heatsink to seal in the thermal paste + secure the heatsink to the motor.
Thermal paste generally has a much higher thermal conductivity than thermal epoxy.
You could probably just use thermal paste + normal epoxy if you want to save money.
This will do a much better job of keeping the motor cool.
I don't care about the content.. subbed for the channel name alone 😂
Hola me gusta mucho tu video, estoy preparando la máquina muy parecida a la tuya, he comprado los mismos motores de los ejes x,y,z pero la placa controladora no tiene suficiente fuerza para mover el motor se mueve pero con poca fuerza, podrías echarme una mano con la parte eléctrica? Qué placa controladora tienes puesta o mandar el enlace de compra
Gracias
Great experiment and vid ! Thanks !
Does FreeCAD allow you to have a Milling Toolpath generated where it will mill a given depth twice - Once without a clearance offset and once with thus creating a wider channel for chips to evacuate into and not be bogging down the Endmill on subsequent passes? If not, I'd strongly encourage you to drop it like ASAP for the free F360 License allowing you to do that for a much more preferrable surface finish when working with underperforming hobbyist machines.
I think that feature is available, yeah. "Adaptive" milling, where the tool creates a helical path along a line, right?
@@HyperspacePirate Nope, I'm talking about what F360 is calling a roughing pass.
I was kinda having the impression that the channels you're cutting are only as wide as your bit and without you flushing the material out before it comes along for the either a springpass or the next depth you most likely regrinding those chips still in the channel.
With a roughing pass you'll first mill with like a 1mm offset followed by the actual pass you intend to make near the part but now at least your unevacuated chips have a place to go and thus not getting in the way of the Endmill while its _actually_ engaging the part.
I'd describe it as a poor man's adaptive clearing - Still won't allow you to go balls deep with the cutter because after all the roughing pass is as wide as the entire cutter but at least you're regrinding your chips because you don't have a way of evacuating it ( I for one have an MDF Spoilboard so Flood Cooling is an absolute NoGo )
@@Duraltia Expand Profile from Path_Profile
Fusion 360 is not free. I encourage you to learn what freedom means.
Excellent music by KSP❤😊
I don't know alot about cnc but that looks cool. I'm currently building an mpcnc
Do you think there is any benefit in using the linear guide rails and blocks used in the Z axis for the X and Y axis for improved rigidity? Cheers and thanks for sharing a great video.
The linear rails can be mounted to anything, so they'd definitely be more rigid than the rods if they were on a solid block of aluminum/cast iron etc
Hello, Im building a similar machine, thanks to you. What did you use to power the shield and the drivers? If you used the 100DC Power supply from the spindle, how did you get to the 24V required? (for the shield) (assuming that the small buck convertor I saw in the electronic box is not enough). I would like to avoid using another 20V power supply, thanks in advance for your response
7:40 many setups use a spring between the nut and the frame.
First time I'm seeing your work on this project, and I'm impressed!
Are you sharing your design files?
Do you have a Parts list?
STLs for the 3d printed parts are in the description but I didnt make any drawings for the metal stuff it's kind of just measured out by hand
screw slap can be repaid by clipping the spring
I do a lot of 3d printing and have never found a suitable adhesive. Can you tell me what you used and whether it holds satisfactorily? Thank you
Bob smith industries insta-cure CA glue and accelerator (gap filling)
What about mailing out upgrades for the c n c mill
Amazing work 👏 appreciate your vids and efforts
hi sybdynoman, have you become a flat earther yet?
@flat-earther sorry not in the slightest, I've been high enough in altitude to be convinced of a spherical earth...but in contrast I'm not convinced I'm living in just the 3rd dimension so there maybe some wiggle room there. What evidence do you have that can shift my understanding 🤔
@@subdynoman okay. I suggest watching the 13 part series in my about tab to learn how the earth isn't a globe.
you can get ballscrews from china with 5-10x cheaper. yes they are not perfect, but with average luck far better than regular brass ones with a slop. I actually thought about idea on adding two to make it tight. good to see that someone implemented it and it works :)
I would wonder how much of that surface finish is due to the chips being stuck inside the cut path instead of being evacuated. Definitely not bad for a cnc made with 3D printed brackets 👍.
Super! Thank you very much!
Cool milling machine! envy =]
Very impressive in vedio1 by using 3d print part to build a basic cnc aluminium upgrade. May be you can put some sprint between two nuts.
I was wondering if you're getting any backlash from the axial play in the stepper motor shaft? Or are you anchoring the lead screw with a low backlash bearing on the opposite end.
Impressive, you have inspired me, thanks
hi, awesome project.
is it possible to use a belt driven assambly instead of lead screws. or do belt's have to much back lash.
thx for sharing , great upgrade ;-)
Nice! As an add on would a blower hose that moves side to side on one side that blows towards a powerful vacuum with a broad intake on the other side help to blow off and collect the debris from what you are working on?
you should try getting it to mill circuit boards.
Nice upgrade!
Btw you can GET Wy cheaper ballscrews, got some for mine but been lazy to convert.
Also another option is to get some nuts with anti-backlash builtin. I have some problem is they are a bigger.
really nice, would be nice to have an estimatoin of total cost and time
Great upgrade i watched the first build and started to assemble the parts but now seeing this it looks much better great job 👍👍👍 do you maybe have the 3D files for printing for the upgrade ??
Many thanks for your great video, I am on the process for helping a capenter guy near my home to build one of the wood carving CNC based on your video! However he wanted to build a bigger one with more load (1m-Wx2m-L). I am thinking of a two stepper motors for Y axis but I am worrying that if one of a side motor failed, the Y axis may cause problem. Do you have any idea for fault protection to avoid such case? Please advice with thanks!
You just use motors and drives that don't fail. When you're running open loop that's the only strategy that works. Go big or go home. What you need to understand is what makes a good stepper motor for CNC. You want a low inductance low voltage high current motor. Learn how to read torque curves. Holding torque is meaningless. You need torque at speed. It is also critical to set the current right on a drive for the motor you're running. More is not better. Stepper motors get hot in use but way too hot is not good. Running rough is not good. Drives with switches to set the current are horsecrap. That stuff ain't right. Performance comes with tuning. Learn how step sequences work. Then you can set the current right at the peak step. Under current performs better than over current does. Bench run your motors and understand how they operate. Figuring this stuff out when it is on the machine is a nightmare. You're probably going to buy cheap Chinese stepper motors. Oh well you'll learn. Spend more and get Japanese motors. Vextas are nice. Finally never ever disconnect a stepper motor from the drive while it is powered up. Or you'll get a lesson in what back EMF is.
You can get ball screws on eBay starting at $20 they may not be perfect but they are decent
Well done!
This is great, I may try this myself when I'll have the balls for this XD
However, you didn't explain why you used new motors.
Also, do you think using POM leadscrew nuts can reudce friction ?
I made lead screw nuts out of HDPE. They're OK. Big chunky nuts. No backlash and they're smooth.
Sounds like music off of Mega Man 👍