Hopefully this comment will help someone! I've literally spent most of the day trying to create 2 spoilboards for my 3018-pro. Everything seemed to go okay until I started the file to cut the mdf. The bit literally plunged into the workpiece and made a right mess. I checked and rechecked my zero points, I tried using candle rather than ugs. I even spent over 40 minutes on a chat with Amazon raising a complaint about the rogue actions of my machine. Anyway, after almost launching the machine out of the window, I decided to save the spoilboard file to my desktop, rather than it opening via OneDrive. Bingo! Worked first time and really pleased with the results. There are literally so many things that I researched to troubleshoot the problem... seems like it was staring me in the face! Huge thanks to James and Graham for doing the hardest part of the work. I really appreciate your time, advice and support.
It's the only thing I can put it down to. Stupidity was my number one suspect, but I've researched so much stuff and just considered the machine (psu/control board) to be the problem. The program has been faultless since...although the damage to the bed was already done #muppet
@@iainrutherford184 The damage to the bed is proof that you are learning. Don't worry about it! The machine Shop I am about to be in charge of has this on 9 out of 10 vises. Most just soft jaws, but the hard jaws (for those that still have them) and the vises themselves! Face the aluminum if there's a burr and, most importantly, keep going!
I first watched this video 2 years ago when first setting up my 3018 Pro. I am back again for the umpteenth time now to re-watch this video as part of my routine maintenance. Thanks so much for such a useful resource!
James, I didmine like this, but I did the grid lines first, then gave them a quick painting with some spray paint, THEN did the surfacing. It left me with some really easy to see lines. Thanks for the great video!
James again, " EXCELLENT" tutorial for anyone. Collected all the parts and made the spoil board. I have not plain the top as yet, my square is 1mm out but I will. Thanks ever so much. Have the spindle you used, my goal is to cut soft / thin Aluminum sheets, 0.8mm to 1.2mm thick, have not tried, but I feel this motor should. I will try once this board is level as you suggested.
Oh mate, these videos are exactly what I’m after, been doing 3d printing since early repraps aka 2012ish so I’m ok with the machines but cnc always seemed different world, haven’t touched my 3018pro since I got it almost 2years ago and decided to finally dive in… these videos are making big difference to my cnc journey for sure, big thanks
Was a bit like me when I got into 3D printing. In my head they should have been fairly similar but took me ages to get into it then one day it just kind of all made sense - although I'm still a novice at that :)
I was able to use your files for creating the spoilboards for my FoxAlien 3018 V2, by detaching the rear panel of the enclosure. I had to create my own gcode file for surfacing the board because of the limit switches, but I did use your technique. Excellent video, thank you.
Thank you for making this video. I've always used a piece of MDF as spoiler board, but I never surfaced it. I'm hoping this solves a lot of problems. That grid and the laser etching add that professional touch that is very admirable!
Got a 3018 pro for Christmas, and this video (and your others) have been a fantastic help with getting started. Need to watch your videos about the laser engraving module now!
Thank you James, this video was clear and concise. I have a 3018 and wish to make a spoilboard. You video showed me how and the link to the files also was a great help. Again thank you!
Thank you so much! I can’t believe this, this video helped me find out something that I really needed and thought it wouldn’t be possible and almost planned on selling my 3018 pro. Thats the fact you can have different collet sizes. I needed to carve 3” 1/4 deep, but the bits that came with my cnc aren’t long enough, so I kept looking for longer bits (of the same diameter, for the collet the machine has by default - 3mm - which is very thin) and of course I couldn’t find any long enough. But now, seeing that you can actually get different collets, this should solve my problem. I just hope the spindle motor is up for the job, and that’s not the reason they didn’t provide collets for thicker bits out of the box with the machine.
Nice video! Quick thing though: instead of putting yourself through the tedium of manually aligning the stock with those drawn lines each cycle, you could fit index pins or a quick little jig into the t-slots. Therefore, when you do a flip, you just butt the board up against those posts and clamp it down, and it's perfectly aligned, no hassle! :D
That is good advice. I do have a few jigs for things like that, however generally speaking I like to leave the bed completely open for the videos so users can use all the space as everyone has different requirements.
Hello James I found your tutorials yesterday. I am expecting delivery of my 3018 prov today. The way you deliver the instruction is top notch and I feel I am learning a great deal already. Keep up the good work.
Thank you so much, that was the video I'm waiting for. However, got to cope with my 3018 pro shaking the Z bearings loose when milling, tried to glue fixing them. Then rush on over to the next home improvement store to shop some MDF. And catch up with your 4030 genmitsu Prover videos ... a machine that I feel a slight desire for... :-)
I didn't have 6mm MDF. Only 19mm. It's much too thick so I'll keep my eyes open for a bit of 6mm. I ordered a 25mm bit last week so when it arrives I'll be ready. Thanks for another great tutorial. Jim
Hi James, Thanks for sharing this introduction video. Very valuable for beginners! After following it and 3D printing some clamps to be mounted on the bed, I realized: the slots are narrower than in the aluminum bed. Hence the clamps won’t fit. I figured out to change the spoilboard‘s slot with in the Fusion 360 file, but have no schorende with the CAM module so far. Is there an easy way to generate the gcode again?
Loving all this content! I just purchased a 3018 and watching everything before I even turn it on :) One question - when doing the grid, are there any issues using the lazer instead of the spindle?
Hi everyone! I like how you designed the enclosure for the 3018 machine. I would do the same for my recently purchased 3030-ProVer Max Genmitsu machine. Thank you!
Just a comment to help others, as David Mochen recently mentioned, the current G-code seems devoid of anything that would drop the bit below the surface of the board. I realized this after running the code a couple of times. Therefore, current best practice might be to find the highest corner, loosen the bit to let it drop down and sit on the surface, tighten it up, then jog it up 5mm, go to the LOWEST corner, drop it down 5.2mm (0.2mm below the HIGHEST point on the board) and REset Z=0. Then raise it back up again, and jog to the starting position (and set XY=0 if you have not already done that). Run will then take 0.2mm off the highest parts of the board. Go back home, drop 0.2mm, RESET Z=0 and then run again. Rinse, repeat.
Thanks James, I appreciate this. I know my bed is not level so I definitely need a spoilboard and I don't want to buy one. I need to get a facing bit and 6mm collet first.
Hi James I am sure it is but I am not planning to keep the 3018 PROVer in it's current form for long as I intend to upgrade it with the extension so I will need the bigger spoilboard when I do that. So for now I'll use your excellent tutorial and make one. Thanks again.
Thanks for the great videos. I just got my 3018 pro (Rattmotor). I loaded the slot file and set all the settings as you did in the video. When i ran the operation, it did the first cut over and over and would not do the other three cuts. what am i doing wrong? I'm not sure whether i missed something in the set up of the machine. I tried in bot UGS and Candle with the same results.
Thanks for the detailed video, James. My 3018 pro is running only because of all the help I get from your videos. I have a question related to motor slippage. My X axis coupler keeps on slipping off the stepper motor shaft-flat-surface. I tried changing the coupler (had an extra one from Sainsmart), greased the lead screw to reduce friction, scrubbed the shaft-flat-surface with sand paper to make it rough... but nothing helped. A few details about my milling efforts... Feed rate
If parts are worn then definitely consider getting new ones anyway but the best solution is usually to apply a drop of loctite thread lock to both the little set screw in the coupler and also a drop on the stepper motor shaft. Loctite is a a bit like a soft glue. It helps hold everything but can be undone of needed.
Hi James, thanks for sharing fantastic tutorials. I'm new to CNC and am having problems surfacing the spoil board. I have a CNC 3018 with limit switches. All Axis's are moving in the correct direction, when homing. When I try to run the surfacing G-code, in UGS, the Y axis moves in the wrong direction. Any help would be most appreciated. Thank you.
I admire you for these tutorials. Got myself 3018 pro and I have problems here and there, fixed some thanks to you. I just bought a new collet and a new surfacing bit and now im trying to level my spoilboard, but when the spindle starts to spin(just spinning not even drilling) the machine is making so much noise. Any suggestions?
Surfacing but can really magnify any vibrations and generally speaking you wouldnt use bits this size on a machine like this (unless surfacing). Also you get different quality of collets and nuts. I remember swapping one of my collet nuts out and it reduced the decibel level by about 8 which is quite a bit
Useful video. One thing I wonder is how easy it is to remove the spoilboard from the bed when you want to discard it? I know painters tape is fairly easy to peel off usually, but with such a large area, and something quite rigid so lifting a corner to 'peel' it is tricky, it looks a though it could be trickier than expected. Any tricks?
If its difficult to get off then that means it has been done correctly :) but when you do need to take it off simply slide a paint scraper in-between the spoil board and bed, then slowly prise it up. Make take a little pressure but does eventually lift off.
Really interested video, I have a question, my machine is a 3018 Prover with a ketch. I have extended the work bed on the Y-axis so that changed the $131 value to 315. I’m assuming that I need to cut two boards to use as one set. Is that correct? The thing that confuses me when I go to surface the board, I think I need to change the surface file to account for the larger bed, right. How?
Awesome! Thank you so much for having made this video and the downloads! As I have 8mm MDF rather than 6mm, how would I edit the G-code to have a deeper cutting depth? Or what would be the easiest way to create G-code for this thicker material? Cheers!
Hi James, thanks for your tutorials. I had great success using them, until I tried the laser on my 3018!!! Now, for some reason my design goes 90deg to the work piece. I have spent days now trying to correct it but with no luck. Any ideas you could cast my way, would be much appreciated. Thanks Chris
Thank you for all of the wonderful videos - I just finished cutting the slots for the spoilboards - but I s have a problem - the slots are not wide enough for the bolts to slid - - I used a 1/8 inch flat end mill - - I dont see anywhere which bit I should use - - any help?? thank you
Hey 👋 I have the 3018Pro, works fine and i just did the spoilboard. Thanks for all the informative videos and for the designs. But my machine is making too much noise when cutting( yours is a lot quieter). Do you have any tips or suggestions? Tysm!
My videos probably do not portray the true noise as they can be quite loud. Make sure all the lead screws are clean and lubricated. Shallower passes usually makes less noise. Enclosure certainly helps. Some people used to say clamping the machine down also helped minimise noise
Hi James, How long will the spoiler board stay securely attached to to the bed using the painters tape and glue method of adhesion? I normally secure my jobs down with double sided tape. I'm worried that when I remove my work piece the spoiler board will be dislodged.
Mine stayed down for years. When you come to remove your work piece, use something like a paint scraper to prise it off so the pressure is lifting the workpiece and not the spoilboard
@@JamesDeanDesigns Hi James, thanks for your reply and comments. I cannot advance the bed of my machine far enough to overhang the front face of bed, before I run out of Y axis travel. The center line of the spindle is about 15mm back from the front face of the bed. Have I got the bearings of the bed attached incorrectly?
JDD - thanks for all the great videos! I'm a new owner of a 3018-PROver V2 and have a couple of questions: 1) If you make projects that require you to cut through the material (like Christmas ornaments) wouldn't it be best to make one spoilboard that is surfaced to the bed and then have a second constant thickness spoilboard on top of the surfaced one? This way you only need to surface one spoilboard and can just easily replace the constant thickness spoilboard as the old one wears out? 2) I see you used tape and CA glue to hold the spoilboard to the aluminum bed. Does this hold it well or is it better to mechanically attach it somehow? 3) My V2 has an aluminum plate for a bed. It has many threaded holes for hold downs. Don't know if this is better or worse than the V1 aluminum extrusion. But, for the V2 design I'm thinking you would drill clearance holes above the threaded holes in the bed plate instead of slots? (I'm thinking of doing this with my drill press since I don't yet know how to generate my own code.) Thanks - Mike
Glad they are helping 👍 1 - this assumes the material you're using for the top board is perfectly flat and consistent. Sadly material rarely is which is why its always best to work from a freshly surfaced area 2 - blue tape and CA glue works really well as long as your surface is clean 3 - yes, if ot has holes then you can either drill them or just use your CNC to machine the holes. I have some other spoilboard videos that do holes instead of slots
@@JamesDeanDesigns thanks for the quick response. One more question. For projects requiring you to cut through the material do you just cut into the nice spoilboard or put something in between?
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks! Let the fun begin. Hate to keep piling on with questions but I purchased 1/4" MDF like you used. 1/2" is easier to find plus many others use it for their spoilboards. Any reason you use 1/4"? I can see the 1/4" being more compliant with the aluminum bed and minimizes "Z" height loss but are there other reasons to use 1/4"?
Hi James, with adding end switches, the wiring tends to become messy. Can I add a cable drag chain, like you have on your (bigger) machines? If so, which interior width should I order?
Mr Dean, Is there an advantage to using MDF over another material? I would think something like a piece of 1/4 baltic birch or even acrylic would be a viable option. For me, I live in a very humid state ( Washington) and MDF tends to draw moisture and warp or bubble. Also, is it worth attempting to micro-level the bed before using a new machine or is "close enough" good and just level the spoilboard? Thank you for the videos, I would like to see one on drawing a project from scratch. I am REALLY new to 3 axis routing and I have found ( so far) that you seem to have more impartible knowledge than many.
Thank you. Definitely worth getting everything as level as you can before starting as it saves you time when surfacing. MDF is cheap, soft and doesnt splinter which is why it works quite well but you can use other material. Just be careful with ply as that can occasionally have voids in ply when you take the top surface off. There is an MDF call MR MDF (Moisture Resistant) and this is better for more humid zones.
@@Roy_Tellason a spoilboard is designed to be ruined essentially though so to some degree a waste of time painting it because as soon as you start cutting into it then the moisture can get again. It's one of the main advantages to MR MDF
Excellent again James. Many thanks. Just one question, is your surfacing bit flat on the bottom? I bought a Chinese offering, which is similar to yours but the cutting blades have a slight angle upwards towards the outside? I don’t know if this is intended or just a poor bit.
exelentes explicaciones aunque las tengo que leer por que no se ingles pero me gustan mucho y me son muy utiles ya que soy principiante en esto de la cnc gracias por tu trabajo exito y salud
Hi James we have this machine we watched the 1st one when you made baxters sign, we have got a dolls furniture pattern to make, have you made a video explaining how we start the project and get the g code thank you
Great video thank you been trying to make spoilboard for 3018pro using code provided by yourself but for some reason unable to get cuts in right place am a total. Newbie any suggestions to help me get it right would be really appreciated
James Thanks for the video. I have a question when facing the boards. Is there a way to adjust the program file to surface the entire bed if I have the bed extension on my 3018 pro?
Hi James. Thank you for all the useful info. I seem to have a problem though... My slots aren't wide enough. I cant get the standard bed clamps in to them. I used a 1/8" End-Mill as described, my X,Y & Z axes are calibrated, yet they are only just over 4mm wide. Have I completely missed a step out somewhere? The only difference is I used Candle as I cant seem to get UGS to work properly with my machine as yet.
@@JamesDeanDesigns thanks for replying. The slots are perfectly in line with the bed, just slightly narrower than expected. Certainly got me scratching my head.
When setting the Z zero, when down to within 1mm why not use feeler gauges to check the exact distance of the 1mm. I think this will be more accurate, save time and less chance of going to deep. Feel free to contradict me, I am new to this. Thanks for producing such a helpful video that even an old man can understand.
Hi Pete, there are various methods and feeler gauges are one but not many people have them. The better method is to use a zprobe which I do run through in other videos but with so much to do in one video, trying to add in another section about setting up and using a zprobe can be a bit overkill.
Hi James, great videos, especially for those of use just starting out. Is just me? I have unzipped files for this project, but can not see the g-code only the Set Up HTML?
Hi James, Very nice Video. I tryed to make the spoilerboard but always when the 3018 Pro makes the first 3 Cuts and they want to go to the fourth they stop. Have you any idea what happens ? Thanks José
Hi James, Great tutorial. I would like to make a spoilboard, but have a problem with my bed. The spindle will not reach all four corners. I have tried numerous things to correct this but without success. Can you give me any information as to how I can remedy this. Many Thanks Jim
Hi James, Thank you for your reply. My machine is a Pro and I have been a bit of a plank (I should have spotted it sooner), I found the answer to my question in another of your videos (The 3018 build). I found that you set the gantry 48mm from the back of the bed frame. I had purchased my 3018 from a friend and the gantry had been set flush with the rear of the bed frame. Now set in the correct position and all is well..👍
What were your feeds and speeds for the surface bit? I tried to surface a piece of pine and it grabs and digs in. make a big bang and shakes the whole machine!!!
I'm not at my computer but if you open the surfacing file in something like notepad you'll see a reference in one of the first 5 or 10 lines like f200, that is the feed rate
Hi Daniel, it's literally the first link in the description below the video. There is usually a little arrow to expand the description area and you'll see all the information
You probably could have added another 2 layers of tape to the right side to take out the .2mm difference painters tape is about 0.1mm thick. Not that it matters but for people who have a bigger difference. Extra tape instead of ordering tiny washers could do the trick
I am looking at getting one of these machines and I am really enjoying your videos but I was wondering if you could offer some advice, I see some machines with the manual adjusters on each axis and with limit switches, are there clear benefits to them or not really?
Manual adjusters are really for ease. You can still turn the thread by hand and achieve the same thing. Limit switches can be useful. They act as a safety feature but also if use correctly then can also help you return to the start of a job if for example you have a power cut. However, you end up having less cutting area as a result of using limit switches
@@JamesDeanDesigns thank you so much. I was wondering if there was less of a benefit than initially thought. Looking forward to getting one and following your guides.
When I cut my board, I gave extra inch X & Y. This allows me to fix front ,& optionally side rails for alignment without losing any cutting area. The guide rails lightly bevelled on inner face to aid clamping by wedging from rear clamps. Why do you say surface bit should be 20mm minimum? 20mm is a bit too heavy duty for a 3018 standard spindle & can cause chatter!
I dont say 20mm minimum, I say 13mm minimum, however I use a 20mm. Its the same bit I used when I did my first spoilboard with the standard spindle. You are right, its quite a heavy bit for this but its a light slow pass so there was no chatter
Brilliant Video James, any idea if there is such a thing as files to do this with the y axis upgrade 300x360? The flattening file especially, I could double up those boards still using the other files but I have a few mm I need to flatten out since extending the Y axis.
I dont think so but probably not that difficult to create in Easel or something. Essentially just draw a rectangle a little bit bigger than your board and tell it to go 0.2mm deep
Hi Thanks for your vids they are a great help to me as a newbie. when I am trying to cut the slots in the spoil board the machine seems to want to cut the slots from the back of the machine and not from the front as in the video. Must be doing something wrong but dont know what. any help would be good.
Does everything else run the correct way? There is often confusion with the 3018 because the bed moves instead of the gantry so when you press forward in Candle/UGS, the bed should actually move towards you (backwards) if that makes sense
If you've applied it with blur tape and CA glue, then just use something thin and flat like a scrapper, push it inbetween the spoilboard and bed, then slowly prise it up.
Hi James, Running your spoilboard file as my first project, the router heads off to the far corner to start work! I'm using Easel (UGS won't download) Is there something I should look at?
Need some help… I have the 3018 prover V1. When I run the surfacing file with the 25mm cutter, it will cut a little and then start oscillating wildly- gouging circles in my mdf spoil board. I reduced cut depth from .2 to .1 mm and the same thing happens. Feed is 200mm. I followed the specs from Graham’s directions, so any help is appreciated. Thanks, David
G'Day James, great video as always, what are the chances of you doing a video on the various router bits that you use and what are available for different materials?
I have already started filming it. I was planning to get it out this weekend but have a had a few days away so are not sure that will happen. But definitely out by next weekend
You could just use release film like you would use for vanilla cutting or applying cut vinyl like with a cricut then spray a bit of 3m spray adhesive to the mdl. then apply it versus taking the chance of the superglue bleeding through to the Aluminum bed thank you for the video unfortunately the link was disabled Please send me a link.
Thanks for a great video... I'm new to the CNC world and have a 3018 Pro that I've upgraded to a 3036 with an expansion kit. I've downloaded Grahams Tutorial but would it be possible to get a file for the larger 3036 layout?
In my opinion the $24 a month is a bit of a rip-off. I love the fact it is simple but in terms of what they offer, Easel is very much behind the market. In this video I discuss software. Ultimately I use Carveco Maker as its only $15 a month and has loads of tools. In the video description there is a link for a 90 day trial and a discount code. th-cam.com/video/EMI97Rcb0bQ/w-d-xo.html
hola de nuevo podrias hacer un video de que hay que hacer cuando estas mecanizando y se produce un corte de energia o simplemente quieres terminar el trabajo al dia siguiente gracias saludos exito y salud
I know this comment is late, but wouldn't it be a good idea to use blocks bolted to the bed to be more precise when having to flip and turn the pieces around? A simple 3d printed block would help achieve this. It would be consistent and make the job go a lot quicker. This is a good video though.
I see what you're saying but this project doesn't need a lot of accuracy and making that block on a printer will eat up a lot more time than it would save if only doing one run of the spoilboard.
Hiya, Decided to take the plunge to learn CNC before spending large amounts of money. I was wondering if you’ve used the OFFLINE controller with SD card?
I'm going to try again but thought I'd mention an issue I ran into. When I ran the slot cutting file my first pass on the first slot started at the edge of the board as expected. However, each subsequent pass stopped roughly an inch short of the edge of the board. I stopped the job after the first slot had apparently finished. It's as if my entire board shifted an inch between the first pass and the rest of the program or the machine suddenly recalculated my zero point. As I said, I'll try again and see what happens.
I had already figured this topic out but you gave some hints that I hadn't taken into consideration. My spoil board is actually a board that was cut into multiple pieces of the proper size for each section and attached with very thin carpet tape, it holds great. What this gave me was full width slots. Your video looks like you are using UGS on a Windows 10 computer, how did you get UGS to communicate with your 3018 Pro? I have a CNC3-3018Pro that uses the Woodpecker board. I want to use UGS but could never get it to communicate with my 3018 Pro and have yet to find any useful information on how to get it to work. Any information on how to get UGS to work with my equipment would be appreciated, even if it means switching to Linux or using a Raspberry Pi as the controlling computer.
Genuinely just installed it and it worked, but I had a similar issue recently with Candle. The thing with open source software is they make changes and tweaks so generally speaking if you download a version thats not working, then look for the earlier version or the latest stable version and that usually helps. There is no logical reason for it not working so you may have just downloaded a bad release
@@JamesDeanDesigns Well, this will sound odd concerning my question because I'm a 40 year veteran of software development and PC maintenance; mostly business software but a little in monitoring and controlling equipment. Answer me these thoughts please, did you try Candle first and then UGS or the other way around and can you tell me what version of UGS you are using. Maybe the device driver for Candle (CH340SER.exe) is interfering with UGS. I used Candle first, then Easel, then tried UGS and now I'm back at Easel. Easel also had a device driver I had to install before it communicated with my 3018 Pro. Thing is, I think UGS appears to a better choice for router control; or at least it will let me set zero axis independently.
@@chrisboyd4535 I started with Candle and had some issues, was advised to try UGS and never looked back. The version I'm using is 2.0. Candle has some benefits, for one its a standalone piece and doesn't require java but I genuinely do fine UGS better I like the fact it has separate controls for the distance of the XY vs Z travel so you don't mess your machine up by accidentally trying to move your Z axis by 200mm. Never used Easel to run the machine, it has a fairly well known issue of messing up the Z axis, for some reason it changes some of your GRBL settings for no reason. Doesnt happen to everyone but not a risk I wanted to take especially as I love UGS.
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks for the information. I have many computers laying around doing nothing so I will grab a couple of them and do more experimenting. Like I said, the best part of UGS that I see is the independence of the X, Y and Z axis when setting it up. Needing java doesn't bother me since it is on most of my computers for software development anyway. About 36 years ago, when PCs ran MS-DOS more often than Windows, I used Microsoft's BASICA to write a program to control an HP plotter connected to an IBM PC-XT with an RS-232 port; very similar to how CNC routers work today. Since UGS is open source I could consider porting the program over to C# which would eliminate it's dependency on java and take it from an interpretive program to a compiled one. Syntax wise, C# and java are very close to the same and in my opinion C# is easier to work with. The problem with this is I would rather spend my spare time doing woodwork than doing the same thing I have to do the rest of the time to make a living. I apologize if I stepped too far over the line into the computer side of CNC. Again, thank you.
@@chrisboyd4535 don't apologise, everyone always thought I would go into an IT based career anyway. Always building and fixing PCs, I used to do a lot of actionscript coding as well before it became obsolete. Instead I ended up in graphic design (and woodworking with CNC as hobbies)
When I run this it shows long ways and wants to cut on the long side, how do I get this to cut on the short side so it is correct? I ran this code after the first cut it plunges all the way into the wood. Not having any success with this at all.
hi james all good so fare are you just using super glue to fix down the board as i put the glue and activator on ,when i did it stuck in seconds had to pull it of as not square then reaply with standard super glue wich gave me 10 seconds to move in place
Great videos thank you I’m having a problem when cutting this spoilboard it does not cut through the 6 mm mdf what am I doing wrong? I followed all of the steps then when I start it does not cut through the top board Help
Hi Jeff, possibly one of 2 things. Either you're not setting your zero correctly, and therefore it's starting to high, our your stepper motors are not travelling far enough and your GRBL settings need tweaking. To check, move your z axis by about 30mm and measure that it actually travels 30mm
Hopefully this comment will help someone! I've literally spent most of the day trying to create 2 spoilboards for my 3018-pro. Everything seemed to go okay until I started the file to cut the mdf. The bit literally plunged into the workpiece and made a right mess. I checked and rechecked my zero points, I tried using candle rather than ugs. I even spent over 40 minutes on a chat with Amazon raising a complaint about the rogue actions of my machine.
Anyway, after almost launching the machine out of the window, I decided to save the spoilboard file to my desktop, rather than it opening via OneDrive. Bingo! Worked first time and really pleased with the results. There are literally so many things that I researched to troubleshoot the problem... seems like it was staring me in the face!
Huge thanks to James and Graham for doing the hardest part of the work. I really appreciate your time, advice and support.
😲 I've never heard of that before. I'll pin this to the top and add a note in the description area. Glad you got it sorted
It's the only thing I can put it down to. Stupidity was my number one suspect, but I've researched so much stuff and just considered the machine (psu/control board) to be the problem. The program has been faultless since...although the damage to the bed was already done #muppet
@@iainrutherford184 The damage to the bed is proof that you are learning. Don't worry about it! The machine Shop I am about to be in charge of has this on 9 out of 10 vises. Most just soft jaws, but the hard jaws (for those that still have them) and the vises themselves! Face the aluminum if there's a burr and, most importantly, keep going!
I’m having real issues with the facing software seemingly stopping and dropping 2mm deep circles right in the middle of the wasteboard
I first watched this video 2 years ago when first setting up my 3018 Pro. I am back again for the umpteenth time now to re-watch this video as part of my routine maintenance. Thanks so much for such a useful resource!
James, I didmine like this, but I did the grid lines first, then gave them a quick painting with some spray paint, THEN did the surfacing. It left me with some really easy to see lines. Thanks for the great video!
Thats a cool idea 👍
I was thinking the same, rearange the order. Do the engraving first. The paint was a really smart move. Your comment sould be pinned at the top. ;)
Goodness you have taken a lot of care to make both Vids and downloadable work files. Thank you for your efforts ! 😊❤
James again, " EXCELLENT" tutorial for anyone. Collected all the parts and made the spoil board. I have not plain the top as yet, my square is 1mm out but I will. Thanks ever so much. Have the spindle you used, my goal is to cut soft / thin Aluminum sheets, 0.8mm to 1.2mm thick, have not tried, but I feel this motor should. I will try once this board is level as you suggested.
Oh mate, these videos are exactly what I’m after, been doing 3d printing since early repraps aka 2012ish so I’m ok with the machines but cnc always seemed different world, haven’t touched my 3018pro since I got it almost 2years ago and decided to finally dive in… these videos are making big difference to my cnc journey for sure, big thanks
Was a bit like me when I got into 3D printing. In my head they should have been fairly similar but took me ages to get into it then one day it just kind of all made sense - although I'm still a novice at that :)
you sound like me! again, these are great easy to follow clear and informative. keep it bup,
I was able to use your files for creating the spoilboards for my FoxAlien 3018 V2, by detaching the rear panel of the enclosure. I had to create my own gcode file for surfacing the board because of the limit switches, but I did use your technique. Excellent video, thank you.
Excellent. Glad you were able to use them on that machine 👍
Thank you for making this video. I've always used a piece of MDF as spoiler board, but I never surfaced it. I'm hoping this solves a lot of problems. That grid and the laser etching add that professional touch that is very admirable!
Thank you very much
You should make a video about adding limit switches to this machine! Love your videos just earned a sub.
Awesome tutorial. My spoil board came out beautifully thanks to you and Graham 👍🙏
Really appreciate these tips. I just bought my 3018Pro and I'm looking forward to getting the most out of it with carvings
Excellent. Hope you enjoy it
i just made this and it worked perfectly. my confidence is restored!!! Thanks James. please keep the videos coming.
Got a 3018 pro for Christmas, and this video (and your others) have been a fantastic help with getting started. Need to watch your videos about the laser engraving module now!
Welcome to CNC :)
Thank you James, this video was clear and concise. I have a 3018 and wish to make a spoilboard. You video showed me how and the link to the files also was a great help.
Again thank you!
Glad it helped 😁
Thank you so much! I can’t believe this, this video helped me find out something that I really needed and thought it wouldn’t be possible and almost planned on selling my 3018 pro. Thats the fact you can have different collet sizes. I needed to carve 3” 1/4 deep, but the bits that came with my cnc aren’t long enough, so I kept looking for longer bits (of the same diameter, for the collet the machine has by default - 3mm - which is very thin) and of course I couldn’t find any long enough. But now, seeing that you can actually get different collets, this should solve my problem. I just hope the spindle motor is up for the job, and that’s not the reason they didn’t provide collets for thicker bits out of the box with the machine.
Nice video! Quick thing though: instead of putting yourself through the tedium of manually aligning the stock with those drawn lines each cycle, you could fit index pins or a quick little jig into the t-slots. Therefore, when you do a flip, you just butt the board up against those posts and clamp it down, and it's perfectly aligned, no hassle! :D
That is good advice. I do have a few jigs for things like that, however generally speaking I like to leave the bed completely open for the videos so users can use all the space as everyone has different requirements.
Hello James I found your tutorials yesterday. I am expecting delivery of my 3018 prov today. The way you deliver the instruction is top notch and I feel I am learning a great deal already. Keep up the good work.
Thank you so much, that was the video I'm waiting for. However, got to cope with my 3018 pro shaking the Z bearings loose when milling, tried to glue fixing them. Then rush on over to the next home improvement store to shop some MDF. And catch up with your 4030 genmitsu Prover videos ... a machine that I feel a slight desire for... :-)
Great job explaining in detail, step by step. video like this has helped alot
I'v got what I want from this episode ..thank you James
Great jobb done explaining in detail, step by step. Was waiting for a video like this.
I didn't have 6mm MDF. Only 19mm. It's much too thick so I'll keep my eyes open for a bit of 6mm. I ordered a 25mm bit last week so when it arrives I'll be ready. Thanks for another great tutorial. Jim
Thankyou.. This was a great help.. I also highlighted the grid with a 0.5mm pencil in the slots.
Nice work!
Excellent. Thank you. These videos are golden.
You're very welcome!
Hi James,
Thanks for sharing this introduction video. Very valuable for beginners!
After following it and 3D printing some clamps to be mounted on the bed, I realized: the slots are narrower than in the aluminum bed. Hence the clamps won’t fit.
I figured out to change the spoilboard‘s slot with in the Fusion 360 file, but have no schorende with the CAM module so far.
Is there an easy way to generate the gcode again?
Loving all this content! I just purchased a 3018 and watching everything before I even turn it on :)
One question - when doing the grid, are there any issues using the lazer instead of the spindle?
Hi everyone! I like how you designed the enclosure for the 3018 machine. I would do the same for my recently purchased 3030-ProVer Max Genmitsu machine. Thank you!
Just a comment to help others, as David Mochen recently mentioned, the current G-code seems devoid of anything that would drop the bit below the surface of the board. I realized this after running the code a couple of times. Therefore, current best practice might be to find the highest corner, loosen the bit to let it drop down and sit on the surface, tighten it up, then jog it up 5mm, go to the LOWEST corner, drop it down 5.2mm (0.2mm below the HIGHEST point on the board) and REset Z=0. Then raise it back up again, and jog to the starting position (and set XY=0 if you have not already done that). Run will then take 0.2mm off the highest parts of the board. Go back home, drop 0.2mm, RESET Z=0 and then run again. Rinse, repeat.
Absolutely brilliant buddy! 👍🏻
Thank you! Cheers!
I love that smooth Intro and Outro
Thank you
Thank You James. This is a great idea . I'm going to have to try it.
Thanks James, I appreciate this. I know my bed is not level so I definitely need a spoilboard and I don't want to buy one. I need to get a facing bit and 6mm collet first.
Well worth the investment to buy them
Hi James I am sure it is but I am not planning to keep the 3018 PROVer in it's current form for long as I intend to upgrade it with the extension so I will need the bigger spoilboard when I do that. So for now I'll use your excellent tutorial and make one. Thanks again.
Very cool advice and easy to follow, thanks
Thanks for the great videos. I just got my 3018 pro (Rattmotor). I loaded the slot file and set all the settings as you did in the video. When i ran the operation, it did the first cut over and over and would not do the other three cuts. what am i doing wrong? I'm not sure whether i missed something in the set up of the machine. I tried in bot UGS and Candle with the same results.
Really, really good videos, clear and concise, thanks buddy!
Thank you very much 🙏
Complimenti ! Tutorial davvero esaustivo e ben fatto. Grazie infinite
grazie :)
Thanks James. Great video.
Cheers
Thanks for the detailed video, James. My 3018 pro is running only because of all the help I get from your videos.
I have a question related to motor slippage. My X axis coupler keeps on slipping off the stepper motor shaft-flat-surface. I tried changing the coupler (had an extra one from Sainsmart), greased the lead screw to reduce friction, scrubbed the shaft-flat-surface with sand paper to make it rough... but nothing helped. A few details about my milling efforts...
Feed rate
If parts are worn then definitely consider getting new ones anyway but the best solution is usually to apply a drop of loctite thread lock to both the little set screw in the coupler and also a drop on the stepper motor shaft. Loctite is a a bit like a soft glue. It helps hold everything but can be undone of needed.
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks. I'll give it a try.
Hi James, thanks for sharing fantastic tutorials. I'm new to CNC and am having problems surfacing the spoil board. I have a CNC 3018 with limit switches. All Axis's are moving in the correct direction, when homing. When I try to run the surfacing G-code, in UGS, the Y axis moves in the wrong direction. Any help would be most appreciated. Thank you.
I admire you for these tutorials.
Got myself 3018 pro and I have problems here and there, fixed some thanks to you. I just bought a new collet and a new surfacing bit and now im trying to level my spoilboard, but when the spindle starts to spin(just spinning not even drilling) the machine is making so much noise. Any suggestions?
Surfacing but can really magnify any vibrations and generally speaking you wouldnt use bits this size on a machine like this (unless surfacing). Also you get different quality of collets and nuts. I remember swapping one of my collet nuts out and it reduced the decibel level by about 8 which is quite a bit
Useful video.
One thing I wonder is how easy it is to remove the spoilboard from the bed when you want to discard it? I know painters tape is fairly easy to peel off usually, but with such a large area, and something quite rigid so lifting a corner to 'peel' it is tricky, it looks a though it could be trickier than expected.
Any tricks?
If its difficult to get off then that means it has been done correctly :) but when you do need to take it off simply slide a paint scraper in-between the spoil board and bed, then slowly prise it up. Make take a little pressure but does eventually lift off.
Really interested video, I have a question, my machine is a 3018 Prover with a ketch. I have extended the work bed on the Y-axis so that changed the $131 value to 315. I’m assuming that I need to cut two boards to use as one set. Is that correct? The thing that confuses me when I go to surface the board, I think I need to change the surface file to account for the larger bed, right. How?
Awesome! Thank you so much for having made this video and the downloads!
As I have 8mm MDF rather than 6mm, how would I edit the G-code to have a deeper cutting depth? Or what would be the easiest way to create G-code for this thicker material? Cheers!
Great video James, all the information clearly articulated, thanks.
Thank you 👍
Hi James, thanks for your tutorials. I had great success using them, until I tried the laser on my 3018!!! Now, for some reason my design goes 90deg to the work piece. I have spent days now trying to correct it but with no luck. Any ideas you could cast my way, would be much appreciated. Thanks Chris
Thank you for all of the wonderful videos - I just finished cutting the slots for the spoilboards - but I s have a problem - the slots are not wide enough for the bolts to slid - - I used a 1/8 inch flat end mill - - I dont see anywhere which bit I should use - - any help?? thank you
Hey 👋
I have the 3018Pro, works fine and i just did the spoilboard. Thanks for all the informative videos and for the designs. But my machine is making too much noise when cutting( yours is a lot quieter). Do you have any tips or suggestions?
Tysm!
My videos probably do not portray the true noise as they can be quite loud. Make sure all the lead screws are clean and lubricated. Shallower passes usually makes less noise. Enclosure certainly helps. Some people used to say clamping the machine down also helped minimise noise
thank you m8 for tutorial its very handy and its help me a lot
Hi James,
How long will the spoiler board stay securely attached to to the bed using the painters tape and glue method of adhesion?
I normally secure my jobs down with double sided tape. I'm worried that when I remove my work piece the spoiler board will be dislodged.
Mine stayed down for years. When you come to remove your work piece, use something like a paint scraper to prise it off so the pressure is lifting the workpiece and not the spoilboard
@@JamesDeanDesigns Hi James, thanks for your reply and comments. I cannot advance the bed of my machine far enough to overhang the front face of bed, before I run out of Y axis travel. The center line of the spindle is about 15mm back from the front face of the bed. Have I got the bearings of the bed attached incorrectly?
JDD - thanks for all the great videos! I'm a new owner of a 3018-PROver V2 and have a couple of questions:
1) If you make projects that require you to cut through the material (like Christmas ornaments) wouldn't it be best to make one spoilboard that is surfaced to the bed and then have a second constant thickness spoilboard on top of the surfaced one? This way you only need to surface one spoilboard and can just easily replace the constant thickness spoilboard as the old one wears out?
2) I see you used tape and CA glue to hold the spoilboard to the aluminum bed. Does this hold it well or is it better to mechanically attach it somehow?
3) My V2 has an aluminum plate for a bed. It has many threaded holes for hold downs. Don't know if this is better or worse than the V1 aluminum extrusion. But, for the V2 design I'm thinking you would drill clearance holes above the threaded holes in the bed plate instead of slots? (I'm thinking of doing this with my drill press since I don't yet know how to generate my own code.)
Thanks - Mike
Glad they are helping 👍
1 - this assumes the material you're using for the top board is perfectly flat and consistent. Sadly material rarely is which is why its always best to work from a freshly surfaced area
2 - blue tape and CA glue works really well as long as your surface is clean
3 - yes, if ot has holes then you can either drill them or just use your CNC to machine the holes. I have some other spoilboard videos that do holes instead of slots
@@JamesDeanDesigns thanks for the quick response. One more question. For projects requiring you to cut through the material do you just cut into the nice spoilboard or put something in between?
@@youmbgtube spoilboard is there to be destroyed basically so cut straight into it 👍
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks! Let the fun begin. Hate to keep piling on with questions but I purchased 1/4" MDF like you used. 1/2" is easier to find plus many others use it for their spoilboards. Any reason you use 1/4"? I can see the 1/4" being more compliant with the aluminum bed and minimizes "Z" height loss but are there other reasons to use 1/4"?
Hi James, with adding end switches, the wiring tends to become messy. Can I add a cable drag chain, like you have on your (bigger) machines? If so, which interior width should I order?
Yes you can. There isn't much wiring so it can be a fairly thin chain if needed
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thank you, I'll look into it, seems some wire extension soldering is in my future...
The surfacing bit in your kit list has a 1/2" shank
Mr Dean, Is there an advantage to using MDF over another material? I would think something like a piece of 1/4 baltic birch or even acrylic would be a viable option. For me, I live in a very humid state ( Washington) and MDF tends to draw moisture and warp or bubble. Also, is it worth attempting to micro-level the bed before using a new machine or is "close enough" good and just level the spoilboard?
Thank you for the videos, I would like to see one on drawing a project from scratch. I am REALLY new to 3 axis routing and I have found ( so far) that you seem to have more impartible knowledge than many.
Thank you. Definitely worth getting everything as level as you can before starting as it saves you time when surfacing. MDF is cheap, soft and doesnt splinter which is why it works quite well but you can use other material. Just be careful with ply as that can occasionally have voids in ply when you take the top surface off. There is an MDF call MR MDF (Moisture Resistant) and this is better for more humid zones.
@@JamesDeanDesigns Or you could just paint or otherwise finish it...
@@Roy_Tellason a spoilboard is designed to be ruined essentially though so to some degree a waste of time painting it because as soon as you start cutting into it then the moisture can get again. It's one of the main advantages to MR MDF
Excellent again James. Many thanks. Just one question, is your surfacing bit flat on the bottom? I bought a Chinese offering, which is similar to yours but the cutting blades have a slight angle upwards towards the outside? I don’t know if this is intended or just a poor bit.
Thak you 👍 I'll have to double check tomorrow but I thought it was flat
exelentes explicaciones aunque las tengo que leer por que no se ingles pero me gustan mucho y me son muy utiles ya que soy principiante en esto de la cnc gracias por tu trabajo exito y salud
Hi James we have this machine we watched the 1st one when you made baxters sign, we have got a dolls furniture pattern to make, have you made a video explaining how we start the project and get the g code thank you
Great video thank you been trying to make spoilboard for 3018pro using code provided by yourself but for some reason unable to get cuts in right place am a total. Newbie any suggestions to help me get it right would be really appreciated
James Thanks for the video. I have a question when facing the boards. Is there a way to adjust the program file to surface the entire bed if I have the bed extension on my 3018 pro?
Hi James. Thank you for all the useful info. I seem to have a problem though... My slots aren't wide enough. I cant get the standard bed clamps in to them. I used a 1/8" End-Mill as described, my X,Y & Z axes are calibrated, yet they are only just over 4mm wide. Have I completely missed a step out somewhere? The only difference is I used Candle as I cant seem to get UGS to work properly with my machine as yet.
Hi Paul, Are the position of the slots in the right place or are they also off?
@@JamesDeanDesigns thanks for replying. The slots are perfectly in line with the bed, just slightly narrower than expected. Certainly got me scratching my head.
@@pabz205 Iguess you have found a solution by now, but my guess would be that you need to adjust the cut pattern to acommodate the smaller cuting bit.
When setting the Z zero, when down to within 1mm why not use feeler gauges to check the exact distance of the 1mm. I think this will be more accurate, save time and less chance of going to deep. Feel free to contradict me, I am new to this. Thanks for producing such a helpful video that even an old man can understand.
Hi Pete, there are various methods and feeler gauges are one but not many people have them. The better method is to use a zprobe which I do run through in other videos but with so much to do in one video, trying to add in another section about setting up and using a zprobe can be a bit overkill.
Hi James, great videos, especially for those of use just starting out. Is just me? I have unzipped files for this project, but can not see the g-code only the Set Up HTML?
Hi James,
Very nice Video. I tryed to make the spoilerboard but always when the 3018 Pro makes the first 3 Cuts and they want to go to the fourth they stop.
Have you any idea what happens ?
Thanks José
Hi James, Great tutorial. I would like to make a spoilboard, but have a problem with my bed. The spindle will not reach all four corners. I have tried numerous things to correct this but without success. Can you give me any information as to how I can remedy this. Many Thanks Jim
Do you have a Pro or Prover? Is there anything physically stopping it travelling edge to edge or is it the files in my video do not go edge to edge?
Hi James, Thank you for your reply. My machine is a Pro and I have been a bit of a plank (I should have spotted it sooner), I found the answer to my question in another of your videos (The 3018 build). I found that you set the gantry 48mm from the back of the bed frame. I had purchased my 3018 from a friend and the gantry had been set flush with the rear of the bed frame. Now set in the correct position and all is well..👍
@@jimscott7596 excellent, glad you figured it out 👍
What were your feeds and speeds for the surface bit? I tried to surface a piece of pine and it grabs and digs in. make a big bang and shakes the whole machine!!!
I'm not at my computer but if you open the surfacing file in something like notepad you'll see a reference in one of the first 5 or 10 lines like f200, that is the feed rate
Hi James
I haven't found the link for the 3018 pro spoil board. Could you post a link. Thanks for all the great videos.
Hi Daniel, it's literally the first link in the description below the video. There is usually a little arrow to expand the description area and you'll see all the information
You probably could have added another 2 layers of tape to the right side to take out the .2mm difference painters tape is about 0.1mm thick. Not that it matters but for people who have a bigger difference. Extra tape instead of ordering tiny washers could do the trick
I've found that when using tape on just certain areas, the unsupported areas can sag under cutting forces.
Are you using Tungsten Carbide 2 Flutes Ball Nose End Mills to drill the holes in the PCB?
I am looking at getting one of these machines and I am really enjoying your videos but I was wondering if you could offer some advice, I see some machines with the manual adjusters on each axis and with limit switches, are there clear benefits to them or not really?
Manual adjusters are really for ease. You can still turn the thread by hand and achieve the same thing. Limit switches can be useful. They act as a safety feature but also if use correctly then can also help you return to the start of a job if for example you have a power cut. However, you end up having less cutting area as a result of using limit switches
@@JamesDeanDesigns thank you so much. I was wondering if there was less of a benefit than initially thought. Looking forward to getting one and following your guides.
When I cut my board, I gave extra inch X & Y. This allows me to fix front ,& optionally side rails for alignment without losing any cutting area.
The guide rails lightly bevelled on inner face to aid clamping by wedging from rear clamps.
Why do you say surface bit should be 20mm minimum? 20mm is a bit too heavy duty for a 3018 standard spindle & can cause chatter!
I dont say 20mm minimum, I say 13mm minimum, however I use a 20mm. Its the same bit I used when I did my first spoilboard with the standard spindle. You are right, its quite a heavy bit for this but its a light slow pass so there was no chatter
Sorry, grey matter misheard !
@@JohnColgan. its ok, very valid point. I wouldn't normally run a bit that big
Brilliant Video James, any idea if there is such a thing as files to do this with the y axis upgrade 300x360?
The flattening file especially, I could double up those boards still using the other files but I have a few mm I need to flatten out since extending the Y axis.
I dont think so but probably not that difficult to create in Easel or something. Essentially just draw a rectangle a little bit bigger than your board and tell it to go 0.2mm deep
Hi Thanks for your vids they are a great help to me as a newbie. when I am trying to cut the slots in the spoil board the machine seems to want to cut the slots from the back of the machine and not from the front as in the video. Must be doing something wrong but dont know what. any help would be good.
Does everything else run the correct way? There is often confusion with the 3018 because the bed moves instead of the gantry so when you press forward in Candle/UGS, the bed should actually move towards you (backwards) if that makes sense
@@JamesDeanDesigns I reversed the Y axis and this solved the issue Thanks for replying.
Hi James,
how easy is it to removed spoiler board? Do you have a special technic?
If you've applied it with blur tape and CA glue, then just use something thin and flat like a scrapper, push it inbetween the spoilboard and bed, then slowly prise it up.
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks for your quick answer. Have you tried also tried double-sided tape? Why not use this one?
Hi James, Running your spoilboard file as my first project, the router heads off to the far corner to start work! I'm using Easel (UGS won't download) Is there something I should look at?
Need some help…
I have the 3018 prover V1.
When I run the surfacing file with the 25mm cutter, it will cut a little and then start oscillating wildly- gouging circles in my mdf spoil board. I reduced cut depth from .2 to .1 mm and the same thing happens. Feed is 200mm. I followed the specs from Graham’s directions, so any help is appreciated.
Thanks, David
G'Day James, great video as always, what are the chances of you doing a video on the various router bits that you use and what are available for different materials?
I have already started filming it. I was planning to get it out this weekend but have a had a few days away so are not sure that will happen. But definitely out by next weekend
You could just use release film like you would use for vanilla cutting or applying cut vinyl like with a cricut then spray a bit of 3m spray adhesive to the mdl. then apply it versus taking the chance of the superglue bleeding through to the Aluminum bed thank you for the video unfortunately the link was disabled
Please send me a link.
Hi. Just found your excellent videos, I have just purchased a 3018 pro. Your link to graham's tutorial isn't working
Hi, I have just tested it and it is still working. Not sure why it didn't work when you tried it but it seems ok now.
Thanks for a great video... I'm new to the CNC world and have a 3018 Pro that I've upgraded to a 3036 with an expansion kit. I've downloaded Grahams Tutorial but would it be possible to get a file for the larger 3036 layout?
Hi Dean, If you are on facebook I would suggest joining the Sainsmart group. They have all the files in there. Plus its a really useful group :)
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks James!! I'll check them out. Keep up the great work, I've learned so much from your channel!!
Everything was going great up to the point where it started making the first cut and error it hit the y axis limit switch, how do I correct it?
James, Great video again. What SW do you recommend to make Gcode toolpaths for the 3018 from .stl files ?
If your familiar with STL files then possibly Fusion 360, its serious powerful and free for personal use
What kind of program would you recommend to cut the board. I'm more familiar with Easel but I don't pay the 24 dollars a month for the pro version
In my opinion the $24 a month is a bit of a rip-off. I love the fact it is simple but in terms of what they offer, Easel is very much behind the market. In this video I discuss software. Ultimately I use Carveco Maker as its only $15 a month and has loads of tools. In the video description there is a link for a 90 day trial and a discount code. th-cam.com/video/EMI97Rcb0bQ/w-d-xo.html
One trick for alignment would be to use t nuts and bolts in 2-4 locations this would set dead stops
I want to make accurate PCB's with perfect aligning holes. Not sure if an end ball mill or flat end mill is better for drilling 0.8mm holes.
Sain Smart publishes a nice infographic showing what their various bits are good for
hola de nuevo podrias hacer un video de que hay que hacer cuando estas mecanizando y se produce un corte de energia o simplemente quieres terminar el trabajo al dia siguiente gracias saludos exito y salud
Do you have a file for a 3040 extended 3018 That would be great!!
I know this comment is late, but wouldn't it be a good idea to use blocks bolted to the bed to be more precise when having to flip and turn the pieces around? A simple 3d printed block would help achieve this. It would be consistent and make the job go a lot quicker. This is a good video though.
I see what you're saying but this project doesn't need a lot of accuracy and making that block on a printer will eat up a lot more time than it would save if only doing one run of the spoilboard.
Hi, tried the board on my CNC3018 PROver 2, but I always have some limit switches to activate. Any suggestions on how to flatten the whole 300x180mm ?
Can I use this cnc to make remote tv control or game controller stand/holder? 🙏🏼😊
Technically yes, you will just need to design the parts you want cutting out
Hiya,
Decided to take the plunge to learn CNC before spending large amounts of money.
I was wondering if you’ve used the OFFLINE controller with SD card?
I've never used an off-line controller as I've always had a PC next to my machine, sorry 😕
I could be wrong but, the collet link is for a 2.5 and won’t work with the flattening bit you show. Or, I was sent the incorrect collet.
You are correct. It appears the 6.5mm has sold out so it's just defaulted to another one which is frustrating. I'll have to get the link updated.
@@JamesDeanDesigns will the 6.5 work with the std nut for the spindle?
I'm going to try again but thought I'd mention an issue I ran into.
When I ran the slot cutting file my first pass on the first slot started at the edge of the board as expected. However, each subsequent pass stopped roughly an inch short of the edge of the board. I stopped the job after the first slot had apparently finished.
It's as if my entire board shifted an inch between the first pass and the rest of the program or the machine suddenly recalculated my zero point.
As I said, I'll try again and see what happens.
Hi James, when you are moving about "Manually" are you just entering the values into UGS or are you entering lines of code?
Just moving about using the jog controls in UGS
I had already figured this topic out but you gave some hints that I hadn't taken into consideration. My spoil board is actually a board that was cut into multiple pieces of the proper size for each section and attached with very thin carpet tape, it holds great. What this gave me was full width slots.
Your video looks like you are using UGS on a Windows 10 computer, how did you get UGS to communicate with your 3018 Pro? I have a CNC3-3018Pro that uses the Woodpecker board. I want to use UGS but could never get it to communicate with my 3018 Pro and have yet to find any useful information on how to get it to work. Any information on how to get UGS to work with my equipment would be appreciated, even if it means switching to Linux or using a Raspberry Pi as the controlling computer.
Genuinely just installed it and it worked, but I had a similar issue recently with Candle. The thing with open source software is they make changes and tweaks so generally speaking if you download a version thats not working, then look for the earlier version or the latest stable version and that usually helps. There is no logical reason for it not working so you may have just downloaded a bad release
@@JamesDeanDesigns Well, this will sound odd concerning my question because I'm a 40 year veteran of software development and PC maintenance; mostly business software but a little in monitoring and controlling equipment. Answer me these thoughts please, did you try Candle first and then UGS or the other way around and can you tell me what version of UGS you are using. Maybe the device driver for Candle (CH340SER.exe) is interfering with UGS. I used Candle first, then Easel, then tried UGS and now I'm back at Easel. Easel also had a device driver I had to install before it communicated with my 3018 Pro. Thing is, I think UGS appears to a better choice for router control; or at least it will let me set zero axis independently.
@@chrisboyd4535 I started with Candle and had some issues, was advised to try UGS and never looked back. The version I'm using is 2.0. Candle has some benefits, for one its a standalone piece and doesn't require java but I genuinely do fine UGS better I like the fact it has separate controls for the distance of the XY vs Z travel so you don't mess your machine up by accidentally trying to move your Z axis by 200mm. Never used Easel to run the machine, it has a fairly well known issue of messing up the Z axis, for some reason it changes some of your GRBL settings for no reason. Doesnt happen to everyone but not a risk I wanted to take especially as I love UGS.
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks for the information. I have many computers laying around doing nothing so I will grab a couple of them and do more experimenting. Like I said, the best part of UGS that I see is the independence of the X, Y and Z axis when setting it up. Needing java doesn't bother me since it is on most of my computers for software development anyway. About 36 years ago, when PCs ran MS-DOS more often than Windows, I used Microsoft's BASICA to write a program to control an HP plotter connected to an IBM PC-XT with an RS-232 port; very similar to how CNC routers work today. Since UGS is open source I could consider porting the program over to C# which would eliminate it's dependency on java and take it from an interpretive program to a compiled one. Syntax wise, C# and java are very close to the same and in my opinion C# is easier to work with. The problem with this is I would rather spend my spare time doing woodwork than doing the same thing I have to do the rest of the time to make a living. I apologize if I stepped too far over the line into the computer side of CNC.
Again, thank you.
@@chrisboyd4535 don't apologise, everyone always thought I would go into an IT based career anyway. Always building and fixing PCs, I used to do a lot of actionscript coding as well before it became obsolete. Instead I ended up in graphic design (and woodworking with CNC as hobbies)
When I run this it shows long ways and wants to cut on the long side, how do I get this to cut on the short side so it is correct? I ran this code after the first cut it plunges all the way into the wood. Not having any success with this at all.
thanks for being metric. So sick of hearing inches gibberish. Love from NZ
26:45 draw a grid with a sharpie or something on the board so you can see where it hasn’t cut if it misses a spot
Yes its something I forgot to add to this video. In my latest spoilboard video for the 4040-XE I scribble all over the board with a pencil. Good tip 👍
hi james all good so fare are you just using super glue to fix down the board as i put the glue and activator on ,when i did it stuck in seconds had to pull it of as not square then reaply with standard super glue wich gave me 10 seconds to move in place
Yes I just use CA glue, you dont need the activator but it just helps speed things up... however that's not always a good thing as you have found out
@@JamesDeanDesigns thanks now i know thought it would not set without the activator
Thank you
glad it helped :)
Great videos thank you I’m having a problem when cutting this spoilboard it does not cut through the 6 mm mdf what am I doing wrong? I followed all of the steps then when I start it does not cut through the top board Help
Hi Jeff, possibly one of 2 things. Either you're not setting your zero correctly, and therefore it's starting to high, our your stepper motors are not travelling far enough and your GRBL settings need tweaking. To check, move your z axis by about 30mm and measure that it actually travels 30mm
@@JamesDeanDesigns I will try that If I find that it doesn’t move as it should what can I do to change that
The cut slots file is at the wrong thickness for the board I'm using. I can't figure out how to edit an NC file. This is a problem for a newbie.