Putting filter capacitors from the motor power tabs to the case, like on an rc car, will prevent the machine from stopping in the middle of operation. The sparking of the brushes, under load, creates a lot of noise in the motor speed control, and ends up feeding into the rest of the control board.
I bought a 3018 with 20x20 extrusions and 3D printed parts some years ago, and only did a few test cuts on it before deciding it needed lots of upgrades, so it just got abandoned. I've just bought a Genmitsu 3020 Pro Max v2 at more than 3 times the price, and that looks like it will be rigid and powerful enough to do some useful work, although I haven't cut anything on it yet. I'd have had to replace almost every part of the 3018 to get anywhere near the rigidity of the 3020, and it's got a far more powerful spindle motor. Bottom of the range 3D printers and laser engravers can produce great results because they have no physical contact with the workpiece, but there's a reason why CNC routers are expensive, and CNC milling machines are unaffordable for home use! I only have very limited expectations even for my 3020!
All great points, I totally agree! These are fun machines but like you said upgrading to make them practical is totally not worth it. I think the linear rails on the 3020 alone make a huge difference, not to mention the spindle upgrade. I hope to get my hands on one to test it out, but no luck yet. Thanks for the comment!
End mills have 3 or more flutes and are for end facing hence the name, you can't feed down with them.slot mills have 2 flutes and are designed to feed down into the material,
Thanks for the upload 👍🏻 I bought a Genmitsu 3018 in 2020, but used it sparingly for only a year or 2. I recently started using it again in hopes to overcome the difficulties I had in the past. Side note, my machine only came with a pack of those daggers. Unfortunately I can’t figure out setting proper tool paths with them in fusion. It fights me constantly and I end up giving in a just using a 1/16” bit, which isn’t helpful for some of the stuff I want to carve.
If you want less chatter, try gluing the peice down so there's no vibrating from the material. Also shorten the cutter overhang. I have a similar cnc and I can do .8mm doc with minimum chattering :)
To use the clamps more effectively: 1. Turn the screws around that are farthest from the workpiece. The flathead part can go on the plate instead o f the other end will cut into the plate. 2. The screws in the slots look correct. 3. Procedure: Put the clamp on the workpiece. Hold it with a finger so that it is flat on the workpiece. Adjust the flathead screw (the one that is furthest from the workpiece) so the clamp has a very slight angle towards the workpiece, like 2-3 degrees or so. Tighten the wingnut with desired amount holding pressure. This is how machinists use clamps to hold workpieces and is the most efficient way to hold a workpiece. Always be sure your tool can clear the clamp screws and keep in mind the a G0XxxYxx will go in a diagonal line instead of one axis at a time. (been there done that!)
Thanks for watching! I'm always looking to improve my product reviews, so let me know what you thought of this review or if there's anything I should have covered! ✌
Dare I ask, how does it do with steel/aluminum? At a minimum and based on your experience with copper, I'm assuming you'd need to ground the piece. But with the right bits, would it engrave/cut on this machine?
Exactly what one would expect from an honest review. Good work. Unfortunately I'm yet to buy a Cheeseburger-capable measuring tape; over here it's just dem pesky centimeters and grams and something called centigrade and whatnot. Anyway, you have a new subscriber. Cheers!!
@@ModernHobbyist sorry for the late response. This is mostly related to temperature. I don't think that the plastic enclosure had any rf shielding effect, I used PLA.
I'm hanging out to get into CNC machining, but don't want the kinds of headaches a budget contender like this brings. How much would I need to spend to get into high quality, headache-free territory for smaller projects (about the size of this one, or larger, would suffice)?
I am new to CNCc and am wondering if a cheap CNC mill can be used as an automatic punching machine. i have a workpiece with dozens of precisely placed punch locations. Normally I use a sharpened needle to manually punch holes as its a sheet of soft material. My questions are: 1) whether i can connect this sharp needle to the CNC and simply use it as a puncher instead of a drill. 2) my work area is about 4 inches square. The hole sizes are relatively small approx 1mm. Is there a way to manually tell the cnc every time i place a new workpiece what the rotation of my workpiece is. Or give it multiple reference points instead of just one (xy 00) so it knows what the rotation of workpiece is around the z axis. 3) I am not sure if the cnc can exert a certain force downward so the needle can punch hole all the way. if not, icould it be possible to connect an automatic spring loaded puncher so that the spindle just has to come down and the rest will happen by the impact of the spring. Thank you.
I was thinking about starting out with one of these, but that flex when you apply a little force to the z-axis rules this one out! Guess I'm gonna go with something just a little bit more upscale...
I was looking at this mini CNC and as you mentioned, the listing made it sound like this setup was made of a combination of Aluminum plate covered in Bakalite. At least that is what I thought. I was also concerned about the setup and how difficult it might be. I'm not computer savvy like the younger generation, so this is a concern no matter where I get it from. Thank you for your honest review. I specifically looked at this model because they offer the machine with an extruded aluminum and plexiglass enclosure for an extra $75. The I realized that it would be cheaper to make my own enclosure. I think I'm going to pass on this model and look at a larger model made from stronger material, and a better rated one. Thank you!
Good video I know nothing about CNC's but saw this model at Home Depot for $120 so I thought why not. I watched two other videos that pretty much gave the same review as you so I'm gonna go ahead and try it out.
is there anything like the bambu labs of cnc to buy? where it just works without major issues? have a p1p and a1 and would love to experiment with some cnc without a ton of fuss
Thanks for the review dude, I was just about to hit the button to order one of these and I think I will give it a miss. I think the frustration isn't worth the price point. Cheers!
You are not using your clamps properly. The way you are clamping is putting more pressure on the backside of the clamp rather than on the part. You should have a slight slant pointed down towards your part.
I think your Video and Review/Comments Appear to be honest and Trustworthy I liked your Findings and Reccomendations IMO. It’s still hard for me to digest at 60 years of Age that today for $149.00 give or take we can get something with this machines Ability and Technology shipped to you and with minor tweaking and some time for Assembly. You can have it up and Working in a somewhat Reasonable time frame Although it has its flaws and Linitations IMO it’s appears to be a decent deal I’m a retired Professional Woodworker by Trade having this machine Appears to be a Asset in my Shop/Home to have Around for certain projects
I love that perspective! It’s easy to take for granted the access we have to tools like this! I still find myself speechless sometimes when I watch my 3D printers going! Thanks for the comment!
I have heard great things about the 3020 pro as a desktop machine but you could also get a larger format one. I don’t have a recommendation for you there yet, but hopefully soon!
You have to be conservative with your feeds, speeds and depth of cut with a machine like this. It takes some experimenting to arrive at the best settings for various materials. But, other than that…a machine like this is a great choice for one off or non-production items.
I have this machine but from one of the other manufacturers (SainSmart, I think), and I got it to cut carbon fiber, although I have yet to set it up and try it. Given your experience, do you think it is possible to cut parts from carbon fiber? When I ordered it, I also ordered additional end mills as I wasn't sure what it came with. You've inspired me to stop being lazy and build my machine tonight, so thanks for that as well as the super week done video review. Your points were clear and concise as well as entertaining. I'm subscribed now and look forward to more content from you. P.S. for some reason, I feel the sudden desire to go get some cheeseburgers. As the old saying goes, measure twice, eat once... or is it order twice cut once?
One is available semi locally to me for $100. I'm currently in the process of sourcing parts for an openbuilds ox or workbench. Would it be worth it to pickup the 3018 to learn on while I build the bigger machine?
Hmmmm, I don't know exactly what I would use one for off the top of my head other than for creating circuit boards. Lately I just buy copper clad boards, draw the circuit on the board in ink, use a special bit chucked in to my drill press for routing out circles in the copper & then clean off the ink with alcohol followed by hope for the best when I attempt to build the darn circuit. Years ago before I went to the university to study, seemingly forever, pure mathematics I spent four years as a structural & misc iron draftsperson or detailer. CAD was only just in its infancy when I ended my drafting experience & I never bothered to become familiar with the software. So, were I desiring to give the machine a go for perhaps making wood pillow bearings or some other small part having tight tolerances I would not know which software to use nor exactly how to translate it to what a CNC machine apparently needs aka a Gerber file. My dilemma is, do I think such a machine would offer opportunities that were worth the effort to learn new tricks, especially when at 69 I've had a lifetime of learning tricks including nearly 15 years spent learning many a persons least favorite subject. If it would help scratch build RC sailplanes that very well might give me the impetus to buy a similar machine. Any other cool projects it could be useful for I'd like to hear about.
I know it’s been a while since you posted this video but would you think this machine would work to custom engrave cattle ear tags? Most people use a handheld dremel tool but i’m very much a perfectionist and wondered if this would work in the material of an ear tag. They’re plastic/ rubber material!
This one doesn't but it can easily be upgraded to install a laser! Some other companies 3018 Pro builds might come with a laser though so make sure to do some searching before buying one!
Would it be able to drill a hole pattern in 1mm mild steel? Just vertical holes with the only use of CNC functionality to get them all in precise locations without manual work.
Thanks for watching! I use Fusion360 but it really depends on your goals. If you’re of an engineering mindset like me, Fusion is great. Some people like Google Sketchup but I’ve personally never liked it. For more artistic purposes, Blender or other modeling software could be a good option.
If I got some better bits, you think this would be able to cut graphite for gold moulds? I only really need 2 different pieces cut so if it breaks or isn't exact, not a big deal at this price point
I’m not sure to be honest! I’ve never machined graphite before but I do think the right bit improves the quality of this machine. But if you have a little bit more budget swing for a better machine
Would you say this is something to start with that you could make small tags or keychains with acrylic for a store front or would you recommend just getting the better model?
If you can afford it, I’d go with at least a 3020 model but if you’re intending to cut colored acrylic, I’d go with a cheap laser with a vented enclosure. Not sure how well engraving would go with a laser though 🤔
Just to add the previous comment. Yes, 100% a laser is a better option for acrylics. Not only does it cut out super clean with 'polished' edges you can shallow or deep engrave with them too. Cutting acrylic on this machine will give you headaches with clean up and give inferior results!
Lol! Thanks, I laughed so hard for so long lolol!.. I was just telling a coworker yesterday that an old man told me when he was a kid his brother used to yell down the measurements from the roof.. "Two hammer shafts and the red screwdriver"
What program you use to edit the gcodes l get a mini cnc from vevor too but l cant use because l dont have any idea about g codes and programs my cnc its a mini cnc router machine s4040
I usually use Fusion360 for the CAD and CAM, but then I send the GCode to the machine with Universal GCode Sender. Fusion has a bit of a steep learning curve for CAM but there are simpler tools out there for sure.
Im interested in in getting my first " machine. Im looking at one on Ebay that has the laser module that comes with it. $210 or a different seller $129 plus $50 for the module from a different seller. Have you tried the laser or wasn't even worth it. What machine/machines are you actually using?
Oh, thanks for the video. I was real close to just purchasing the one that came with the laser. Thought well for $210 and it does both. Then figured I better check reviews.
this is really interesting. I want to get a 3D printer at some point, does anyone know of a CNC that's kind of designed to do both around a 300-400 USD price range? It'd be awesome if there was something I can get as a 3D printer and later be able to swap the tool head to do some milling on wood or plastic.
You could check out Snapmakers, though my experience has been that 3d printers aren't particularly well suited for CNC routing since they're not designed to be rigid.
@@ModernHobbyist Oh shit! Thanks! it's always cool when the guy making the video responds to you! I was actually thinking about it the other way around. Like some cheap CNC router like this one that can sort of easily be fitted with a 3D printer head without too much fuss or requiring me to fabricate something since I don't have either atm I wanna get into it at some point. That snapmaker is way out of the budget I was aiming for. I guess I'll have to stick with 3D printer get a separate machine later specifically for CNC milling.
I've always had good luck with toolstoday.com/, specifically Amana brand bits, but I've also gotten some really cheap SpeTool bits on Amazon. The SpeTool bits are definitely not something you'd be able to use commercially, but for a tiny machine like this I think they'd hold up fine!
Hello, can someone who knows about this tell me what part I need? On the control board on my Vevor 3018 I accidentaly damaged the PC - USB connector, and I need to change it, but I cant identifiate the correct component. It will be possible to buy, or can I buy new control board? Thank you
The price is really cheap! I bought my first 3018 before I bought my first 3D printer In hindsight, a 3D printer would have been the better purchase. However, that was before the A1 mini was available
Not with any level of accuracy, it's not sturdy enough. I tried cutting very very shallow and stopped it almost immediately cause it was chattering and bouncing all over the place, even at like .05mm depth of cut. Hope that helps!
The ER11 collet allows bits up to 7mm in diameter. The inconvenient truth is the 775 motor remains the main questioning choice: its shaft is 5mm only (it should be way bigger than bits to hold them properly). There's a lot of versions of the 775 motor, with various torque, max RPM, and axial bearings. On a $150 machine you can not get the high torque, 22.000 rpm version with ball bearings. Instead you have the low torque 7800 (12000 if you're lucky) rpm version with fast wear bronze bearings. Keep in mind bakelite is 18 times less stiff than aluminium by the way. The lead screws should be constrained on both sides and tensioned. Unfortunately, they're not. Weak structure, bad components: pittyful... This machine is engineered to be inexpensive to produce and inexpensive to ship, not to be an efficient machine. My two cents.
Thanks for the comment! I almost mentioned the Bakelite being 18x less stiff than aluminum but wasn’t positive I calculated that right, so thanks for confirming!
@@dieterkrause1674 Right, so you’re saying 'extremely stiff,' yeah? Well, that’s a ballpark figure at best, mate. Bakelite's Young's modulus is what, 4 GPa? Steel’s is 210 GPa! That’s like comparing a marshmallow to a brick wall. Bakelite isn’t even close to being stiff enough! It’s like saying a paperclip is ‘basically a crowbar.’ Give it a rest!
@@dieterkrause1674 I know Bakelite. I don't care about you opinion or your meaning. Physics is not an opinion. Bakelite is about 98% less rigid than steel. It is approximately 90% more sensitive to impacts compared to steel. Additionally, Bakelite is around 60% more prone to vibrations than steel. Bakélite is a rubbish material for CNC engineering. Definitely.
I'm hanging out to get into CNC machining, but don't want the kinds of headaches a budget contender like this brings. How much would I need to spend to get into high quality, headache-free territory for smaller projects (about the size of this one, or larger, would suffice)?
Putting filter capacitors from the motor power tabs to the case, like on an rc car, will prevent the machine from stopping in the middle of operation. The sparking of the brushes, under load, creates a lot of noise in the motor speed control, and ends up feeding into the rest of the control board.
Appreciate the Cheeseburger conversion. Too many channels overlook this unit of measurement.
LOL!!
Problem is the different sizes of Cheeseburgers:
Slider, McDonalds, Jack, Whopper, Diner, and Texas
Was just about to ask if those would be Whoppers, Big Mac's, Jumbo Jack's, etc.
@@DaiShuryoTechnus I measure everything in Checker's Burgers. Primarily the Double Fry Lovers Burger.
So one Korgi equals 4 vertical burgers. Good to know
I bought a 3018 with 20x20 extrusions and 3D printed parts some years ago, and only did a few test cuts on it before deciding it needed lots of upgrades, so it just got abandoned. I've just bought a Genmitsu 3020 Pro Max v2 at more than 3 times the price, and that looks like it will be rigid and powerful enough to do some useful work, although I haven't cut anything on it yet. I'd have had to replace almost every part of the 3018 to get anywhere near the rigidity of the 3020, and it's got a far more powerful spindle motor. Bottom of the range 3D printers and laser engravers can produce great results because they have no physical contact with the workpiece, but there's a reason why CNC routers are expensive, and CNC milling machines are unaffordable for home use! I only have very limited expectations even for my 3020!
All great points, I totally agree! These are fun machines but like you said upgrading to make them practical is totally not worth it. I think the linear rails on the 3020 alone make a huge difference, not to mention the spindle upgrade. I hope to get my hands on one to test it out, but no luck yet. Thanks for the comment!
End mills have 3 or more flutes and are for end facing hence the name, you can't feed down with them.slot mills have 2 flutes and are designed to feed down into the material,
3:25 [US] "5 x 4 cheeseburgers 🍔 and 1 corgi 🐕 tall", that is pure gold! 😂😂😂
Thanks for the upload 👍🏻 I bought a Genmitsu 3018 in 2020, but used it sparingly for only a year or 2. I recently started using it again in hopes to overcome the difficulties I had in the past. Side note, my machine only came with a pack of those daggers. Unfortunately I can’t figure out setting proper tool paths with them in fusion. It fights me constantly and I end up giving in a just using a 1/16” bit, which isn’t helpful for some of the stuff I want to carve.
If you want less chatter, try gluing the peice down so there's no vibrating from the material. Also shorten the cutter overhang. I have a similar cnc and I can do .8mm doc with minimum chattering :)
Appreciate the info!
To use the clamps more effectively:
1. Turn the screws around that are farthest from the workpiece. The flathead part can go on the plate instead o f the other end will cut into the plate.
2. The screws in the slots look correct.
3. Procedure: Put the clamp on the workpiece. Hold it with a finger so that it is flat on the workpiece. Adjust the flathead screw (the one that is furthest from the workpiece) so the clamp has a very slight angle towards the workpiece, like 2-3 degrees or so. Tighten the wingnut with desired amount holding pressure. This is how machinists use clamps to hold workpieces and is the most efficient way to hold a workpiece.
Always be sure your tool can clear the clamp screws and keep in mind the a G0XxxYxx will go in a diagonal line instead of one axis at a time. (been there done that!)
Thanks for watching! I'm always looking to improve my product reviews, so let me know what you thought of this review or if there's anything I should have covered! ✌
I have been thinking about getting a CNC to augment my Laser. Glad i found your channel.
so what is the next class of cnc machine. this one is really entry level... without going to the carvera , is there something worth trying between ?
Dare I ask, how does it do with steel/aluminum? At a minimum and based on your experience with copper, I'm assuming you'd need to ground the piece. But with the right bits, would it engrave/cut on this machine?
I'm not sure why YT recommended me to this, but I had to comment. I saw the thumbnail and thought Jim Varney. Incredible. Good video too.
Exactly what one would expect from an honest review. Good work. Unfortunately I'm yet to buy a Cheeseburger-capable measuring tape; over here it's just dem pesky centimeters and grams and something called centigrade and whatnot. Anyway, you have a new subscriber. Cheers!!
Mine freeze as well, the solution I end up using was to 3d print a case for the pcb and install a 12v pc fan.
Oh interesting! Do you think it was overheating or did the case help to insulate from static feedback or something?
@@ModernHobbyist sorry for the late response. This is mostly related to temperature. I don't think that the plastic enclosure had any rf shielding effect, I used PLA.
What application do you use to cnc the router
@@mahranmawarid2678 I use candler
I'm hanging out to get into CNC machining, but don't want the kinds of headaches a budget contender like this brings. How much would I need to spend to get into high quality, headache-free territory for smaller projects (about the size of this one, or larger, would suffice)?
I am new to CNCc and am wondering if a cheap CNC mill can be used as an automatic punching machine. i have a workpiece with dozens of precisely placed punch locations. Normally I use a sharpened needle to manually punch holes as its a sheet of soft material.
My questions are: 1) whether i can connect this sharp needle to the CNC and simply use it as a puncher instead of a drill. 2) my work area is about 4 inches square. The hole sizes are relatively small approx 1mm. Is there a way to manually tell the cnc every time i place a new workpiece what the rotation of my workpiece is. Or give it multiple reference points instead of just one (xy 00) so it knows what the rotation of workpiece is around the z axis. 3) I am not sure if the cnc can exert a certain force downward so the needle can punch hole all the way. if not, icould it be possible to connect an automatic spring loaded puncher so that the spindle just has to come down and the rest will happen by the impact of the spring.
Thank you.
I was thinking about starting out with one of these, but that flex when you apply a little force to the z-axis rules this one out! Guess I'm gonna go with something just a little bit more upscale...
I just purchased a 3018 yesterday ( slow boat shipping ) and i wanted it for cutting clear acrylic and tin and wood dog tags .
Does this work for decorating clear acrylic too?
Were you able to cut acrylic? Would you recommend this cnc for small work?
@@ShaddronFeke using single-flute cutter works fine
I was looking at this mini CNC and as you mentioned, the listing made it sound like this setup was made of a combination of Aluminum plate covered in Bakalite. At least that is what I thought. I was also concerned about the setup and how difficult it might be. I'm not computer savvy like the younger generation, so this is a concern no matter where I get it from. Thank you for your honest review. I specifically looked at this model because they offer the machine with an extruded aluminum and plexiglass enclosure for an extra $75. The I realized that it would be cheaper to make my own enclosure. I think I'm going to pass on this model and look at a larger model made from stronger material, and a better rated one. Thank you!
Thanks for the comment! Glad you found the review helpful!
Good video I know nothing about CNC's but saw this model at Home Depot for $120 so I thought why not. I watched two other videos that pretty much gave the same review as you so I'm gonna go ahead and try it out.
Thanks for the video, I'll take these off my list and keep looking or DIY it.
Do you think the Genmitsu CNC 3018-PRO Router Kit is a better purchase?
Thank you so much for this video. You saved me a lot of time, effort and money. Please, keep doing these videos, they are a ton of help!! Thanks!!!!!
I wonder how good this thing would be for small precise cutting? Like making small custom pins
is there anything like the bambu labs of cnc to buy? where it just works without major issues? have a p1p and a1 and would love to experiment with some cnc without a ton of fuss
Thanks for the review dude, I was just about to hit the button to order one of these and I think I will give it a miss. I think the frustration isn't worth the price point. Cheers!
You are not using your clamps properly. The way you are clamping is putting more pressure on the backside of the clamp rather than on the part. You should have a slight slant pointed down towards your part.
I think your Video and Review/Comments Appear to be honest and Trustworthy I liked your Findings and Reccomendations IMO. It’s still hard for me to digest at 60 years of Age that today for $149.00 give or take we can get something with this machines Ability and Technology shipped to you and with minor tweaking and some time for Assembly. You can have it up and Working in a somewhat Reasonable time frame Although it has its flaws and Linitations IMO it’s appears to be a decent deal I’m a retired Professional Woodworker by Trade having this machine Appears to be a Asset in my Shop/Home to have Around for certain projects
I love that perspective! It’s easy to take for granted the access we have to tools like this! I still find myself speechless sometimes when I watch my 3D printers going! Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for a review of the CNC 3018 if I was to upgrade it what should i go for
I have heard great things about the 3020 pro as a desktop machine but you could also get a larger format one. I don’t have a recommendation for you there yet, but hopefully soon!
You have to be conservative with your feeds, speeds and depth of cut with a machine like this. It takes some experimenting to arrive at the best settings for various materials. But, other than that…a machine like this is a great choice for one off or non-production items.
I have this machine but from one of the other manufacturers (SainSmart, I think), and I got it to cut carbon fiber, although I have yet to set it up and try it. Given your experience, do you think it is possible to cut parts from carbon fiber? When I ordered it, I also ordered additional end mills as I wasn't sure what it came with. You've inspired me to stop being lazy and build my machine tonight, so thanks for that as well as the super week done video review. Your points were clear and concise as well as entertaining. I'm subscribed now and look forward to more content from you.
P.S. for some reason, I feel the sudden desire to go get some cheeseburgers. As the old saying goes, measure twice, eat once... or is it order twice cut once?
Quick question! Do you think this would be able to engrave designs into 22 gauge aluminum?
I would like this machine for cutting vinyl records for crafts.
Would you suggest this and what bits would you suggest for vinyl
Thanks
Thank you sir for translating the measurements to American. I was able to clearly imagine it on the table infront of me.
What type of tolerances do you think you could hit with this?
Really good video. Enjoyed the humor and timing. Will watch some more.
Glad you enjoyed it!
One is available semi locally to me for $100.
I'm currently in the process of sourcing parts for an openbuilds ox or workbench.
Would it be worth it to pickup the 3018 to learn on while I build the bigger machine?
I am model builder . I'm looking for a CNC machine to cut styrene plastic sheets. what CNC Would you recomend?
Good news you just baught a tiny mill, get some settings that work and make some better parts for the machine.
Hmmmm,
I don't know exactly what I would use one for off the top of my head other than for creating circuit boards. Lately I just buy copper clad boards, draw the circuit on the board in ink, use a special bit chucked in to my drill press for routing out circles in the copper & then clean off the ink with alcohol followed by hope for the best when I attempt to build the darn circuit.
Years ago before I went to the university to study, seemingly forever, pure mathematics I spent four years as a structural & misc iron draftsperson or detailer. CAD was only just in its infancy when I ended my drafting experience & I never bothered to become familiar with the software. So, were I desiring to give the machine a go for perhaps making wood pillow bearings or some other small part having tight tolerances I would not know which software to use nor exactly how to translate it to what a CNC machine apparently needs aka a Gerber file.
My dilemma is, do I think such a machine would offer opportunities that were worth the effort to learn new tricks, especially when at 69 I've had a lifetime of learning tricks including nearly 15 years spent learning many a persons least favorite subject.
If it would help scratch build RC sailplanes that very well might give me the impetus to buy a similar machine. Any other cool projects it could be useful for I'd like to hear about.
I know it’s been a while since you posted this video but would you think this machine would work to custom engrave cattle ear tags? Most people use a handheld dremel tool but i’m very much a perfectionist and wondered if this would work in the material of an ear tag. They’re plastic/ rubber material!
Thanks for the useful review. does it come with the laser in the package as well?
This one doesn't but it can easily be upgraded to install a laser! Some other companies 3018 Pro builds might come with a laser though so make sure to do some searching before buying one!
CNC virgin here if I buy this will I be able to make my own graphite molds for silver? And what program do I use . Please give me the 411
Would it be able to drill a hole pattern in 1mm mild steel? Just vertical holes with the only use of CNC functionality to get them all in precise locations without manual work.
I’m not sure but I don’t have much faith that it would be able to get through any steel 🤔
Thanks for the video! I am new to cnc what software do you use to do you designing and would you recommend it for a beginner?
Thanks for watching! I use Fusion360 but it really depends on your goals. If you’re of an engineering mindset like me, Fusion is great. Some people like Google Sketchup but I’ve personally never liked it. For more artistic purposes, Blender or other modeling software could be a good option.
Sure about that 0,5mm? The video looks more like 5mm (which would be 0,5cm) ... maybe convert it to cheeseburgers'n'corgis 😀
whats your best settings for the engraver bit on plastic and aluminum? cheers
Do you recommend this machine to engrave kydex sheets?
If I got some better bits, you think this would be able to cut graphite for gold moulds? I only really need 2 different pieces cut so if it breaks or isn't exact, not a big deal at this price point
I’m not sure to be honest! I’ve never machined graphite before but I do think the right bit improves the quality of this machine. But if you have a little bit more budget swing for a better machine
Would you say this is something to start with that you could make small tags or keychains with acrylic for a store front or would you recommend just getting the better model?
If you can afford it, I’d go with at least a 3020 model but if you’re intending to cut colored acrylic, I’d go with a cheap laser with a vented enclosure. Not sure how well engraving would go with a laser though 🤔
Just to add the previous comment. Yes, 100% a laser is a better option for acrylics. Not only does it cut out super clean with 'polished' edges you can shallow or deep engrave with them too. Cutting acrylic on this machine will give you headaches with clean up and give inferior results!
Lol! Thanks, I laughed so hard for so long lolol!.. I was just telling a coworker yesterday that an old man told me when he was a kid his brother used to yell down the measurements from the roof.. "Two hammer shafts and the red screwdriver"
Well done & informative. I'm still looking for my first machine, but it's mostly about budget.
What program you use to edit the gcodes l get a mini cnc from vevor too but l cant use because l dont have any idea about g codes and programs my cnc its a mini cnc router machine s4040
Didn't know bakelite was still used for anything.
Good toknow, since I'm currently in the marketfor something like that for aluminium, brass and occasionally aluminium.
Which software do you use? Is the initial setup complicate?
I usually use Fusion360 for the CAD and CAM, but then I send the GCode to the machine with Universal GCode Sender. Fusion has a bit of a steep learning curve for CAM but there are simpler tools out there for sure.
Rad…Real review…Not a Commercial nor a bash fest…
😉🤙🏻
This and the cheap chinese desktop lathe could well be a good replacement to do what my 3D printer failed to do.
Makes you wonder I see a lot of these videos. But when you go to Amazon it's no longer available. So is there something that you're not telling us.
Still available to me 🤔 I wonder if it's not available in your area?
Here's the link to the machine in this video: amzn.to/47005ej
would this work as a drawing machine?
Im interested in in getting my first " machine. Im looking at one on Ebay that has the laser module that comes with it. $210 or a different seller $129 plus $50 for the module from a different seller. Have you tried the laser or wasn't even worth it.
What machine/machines are you actually using?
Oh, thanks for the video. I was real close to just purchasing the one that came with the laser. Thought well for $210 and it does both. Then figured I better check reviews.
8:07 you are right. Even an electric firelighter will cause this to happen if you click it within 15cm (2.5 cheeseburgers) away from it.
Thank you for converting it to REAL units for me! 🤣
Which one would you recommend that is one level over this one?
I've heard more positive things about the 3020-PRO versions (don't have a specific brand in mind) but I haven't tested one myself. Hope that helps!
this is really interesting.
I want to get a 3D printer at some point, does anyone know of a CNC that's kind of designed to do both around a 300-400 USD price range?
It'd be awesome if there was something I can get as a 3D printer and later be able to swap the tool head to do some milling on wood or plastic.
You could check out Snapmakers, though my experience has been that 3d printers aren't particularly well suited for CNC routing since they're not designed to be rigid.
@@ModernHobbyist Oh shit! Thanks! it's always cool when the guy making the video responds to you!
I was actually thinking about it the other way around. Like some cheap CNC router like this one that can sort of easily be fitted with a 3D printer head without too much fuss or requiring me to fabricate something since I don't have either atm I wanna get into it at some point.
That snapmaker is way out of the budget I was aiming for.
I guess I'll have to stick with 3D printer get a separate machine later specifically for CNC milling.
Its a gcode error happens alot with cura 3d printing :)
Where can you get the better bits you talk about?
I've always had good luck with toolstoday.com/, specifically Amana brand bits, but I've also gotten some really cheap SpeTool bits on Amazon. The SpeTool bits are definitely not something you'd be able to use commercially, but for a tiny machine like this I think they'd hold up fine!
Precision is the key. Get what you pay for.
You are lucky to get atleast some bits for milling. I got V bits and all of them are same. 😂
Thank you for saving me $150
You already got 👍 for the INTRO.
Would you know what resolution this can get? Interested to know how low the Z travel can get, eg smallest travel is 0.1mm
From what I saw, it said .003" resolution. So not a whole lot better than .1mm in the end 🤷🏻♂️
It's engraving on Stainless?
I wouldn't expect very nice mills to come with $150 router. I have single mills that cost that much.
Hello,
can someone who knows about this tell me what part I need?
On the control board on my Vevor 3018 I accidentaly damaged the PC - USB connector, and I need to change it, but I cant identifiate the correct component. It will be possible to buy, or can I buy new control board? Thank you
Loved your video! Sub'd! Can you recommend a good starter CNC cut 1mm aluminum sheet metal into small flat shapes?
with 4 flutes, try increasing the feed rate
Any thoughts on a machine one level up?
I haven’t tested any brands out but I’ve heard good things about the 3020 Pro builds, they seem to be a good bit better than the 3018s!
can you import dwg files from autocad?
Brand new subscriber here. Thank you for the review. I’ll be searching your account for my next video! 🎉
Glad to have you!
Ordered one but I'm not rich so I went with a no-name brand instead of a luxury Vevor.
The price is really cheap! I bought my first 3018 before I bought my first 3D printer
In hindsight, a 3D printer would have been the better purchase. However, that was before the A1 mini was available
good job man continue posting!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you!
Does this have controlled z height or is it manual only?
Yup! Its controllable 👍🏻
nice review thank you :)
Thanks for watching!
Great video! Love the recommendations for improving the experience. -a burgeoning hobbyist
Thank you! Glad it was helpful!
Can it cut aluminum?
Not with any level of accuracy, it's not sturdy enough. I tried cutting very very shallow and stopped it almost immediately cause it was chattering and bouncing all over the place, even at like .05mm depth of cut. Hope that helps!
The ER11 collet allows bits up to 7mm in diameter. The inconvenient truth is the 775 motor remains the main questioning choice: its shaft is 5mm only (it should be way bigger than bits to hold them properly). There's a lot of versions of the 775 motor, with various torque, max RPM, and axial bearings. On a $150 machine you can not get the high torque, 22.000 rpm version with ball bearings. Instead you have the low torque 7800 (12000 if you're lucky) rpm version with fast wear bronze bearings. Keep in mind bakelite is 18 times less stiff than aluminium by the way. The lead screws should be constrained on both sides and tensioned. Unfortunately, they're not. Weak structure, bad components: pittyful... This machine is engineered to be inexpensive to produce and inexpensive to ship, not to be an efficient machine. My two cents.
Thanks for the comment! I almost mentioned the Bakelite being 18x less stiff than aluminum but wasn’t positive I calculated that right, so thanks for confirming!
bakelite is extremely stiff
@@dieterkrause1674 Right, so you’re saying 'extremely stiff,' yeah? Well, that’s a ballpark figure at best, mate. Bakelite's Young's modulus is what, 4 GPa? Steel’s is 210 GPa! That’s like comparing a marshmallow to a brick wall. Bakelite isn’t even close to being stiff enough! It’s like saying a paperclip is ‘basically a crowbar.’ Give it a rest!
@@axelSixtySix try to bend bakelite...then you`ll see what i mean
@@dieterkrause1674 I know Bakelite. I don't care about you opinion or your meaning. Physics is not an opinion. Bakelite is about 98% less rigid than steel. It is approximately 90% more sensitive to impacts compared to steel. Additionally, Bakelite is around 60% more prone to vibrations than steel. Bakélite is a rubbish material for CNC engineering. Definitely.
Can it do metal.
Not any metals worth cutting, I tried copper clad circuit board and it didn’t even wanna cut through that
I hit subscribe because of the cheeseburger measurements. It is so hard to find someone that uses useful units of measure.
What the hell even is a milli meter right?!
"A no go" sounds a lot better
3:35 made me crack up lol
they got some small burgers over there :D
tfw Americans use the metric system 😍 There is hope for the world yet.
Don’t get too excited just yet 😩
Instructions were near enough useless expecially the ones for plugging everything into board hence why I plugged the main power into wrong hole😂😂😂
Due to the lack of support, no response I would highly recommend not getting this machine, especially if your entry-level which probably you are.
LoL.. Corgis are a British measurement. Please don't mix your units, it's confusing. 😉
Omg you’re right 😭
@@ModernHobbyist 😁👍
That thing is a pos!
Im in New Zealand, are your cheeseburgers imperial or metric like ours? Great video and new sub.😅
I think the meat is imperial but the bun it’s metric 😩
I'm hanging out to get into CNC machining, but don't want the kinds of headaches a budget contender like this brings. How much would I need to spend to get into high quality, headache-free territory for smaller projects (about the size of this one, or larger, would suffice)?