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Here's Everything Wrong With Our Cheap Project Volvo V70R
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ส.ค. 2017
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We took a walk around our project Volvo V70R and tried to find as much wrong with it as possible. Here's what we came up with!
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Just a couple things as a owner of a 2004 volvo v70r that is extremely similar to yours (except for condition):
- R cars are infamous for bumper droop it happens to every single one regardless of condition, you can drill two holes through the bottom into a plastic mount that hangs above the bumper and zip tie it however the droop is still noticeable. Personally I plan to get a new bumper and attach a splitter but that's like 2k retail lol
- AC condenser looks beyond fucked as well
- If your struts are fucked (which is most likley) monroe offers a cheaper alternative at $300 a strut compared to volvos $500 a piece number. You keep full 4C function as well, I've driven cars with both of the different struts and there is really not a difference. There are multipule threads for moving over to coilovers and if you want to not have a car throwing the 4C code literally all the time it's gonna take some time and patience. These are most likely the cause of your error code and that yellow triange in the middle is just alerting you to the check the error code in the little screen to the left.
- Upper motor mount seems to be quite corroded and judging how it is literally on top of the engine would be super easy to replace
-These cars go through auto transmissions like fucking Candy, highly recommend a manual swap. It's standard for these cars to go through a transmission every 60k. This car defiantly has been through at least one at this point.
-The Volvo interior is nice and super comfy but if you want to compete with M3s gut it. These cars are fuckin heavy at 2tons or 4000 pounds stripping the interior would nock off a lot of weight that would help a shit ton with increasing acceleration times. Or you could just look around at junk yards for one with an interior you want as a cheaper option.
- Also fun fact those two humps on the transmission tunnel between the two rear seats are actually lines for your ebrake cables do not cut
- Make sure to take the exhaust bracket of death off, it has a chance to fly up into the rear assembly with the bevel gear and cause massive and expensive damage if you run over an animal or something like that
- Do whatever you can to save the calipers they are near $500 a piece (also 4 piston all the way around which is dope) also only use Volvo stock brake pads as damn near all aftermarket pads giggle lose somehow and end up causing a lot of noise and wearing unevenly causing rotor damage. Aftermarket rotors seem to be no problem but make sure to get the right one because Volvo uses a weird bolt pattern on the hub (5x108)
You forgot the angle gear, the one on mine is going to need to be replaced soon.
Alex Roshko angle gear is the same thing as bevel gear
They don't go through autos, at least the 5-speeds, he's guaranteed to crack his block or blow the angle gear before the trans.
Never heard that they break trannys.. Not stock atleast. However they do tend to leak oil between the transmission and engine. And if youre doing a manual swap you might aswell remove the awd and make it rwd since awd offers nothing but deadweight.. weld the diff n njoy.. Superb sleeper
Bro, I'm looking for a clean v70 R, you seem to know your volvos, anything else I should look for?
Just bought one of these, '04 with 79k miles on it. Feels as tight as a drum and that engine note is so gorgeous. Got the car, plus another set of rims with winter tires, plus all service records from the original owners (plus that care package if you pay to get the car from Sweden), and the original Swedish plates for 8500. Couldn't be happier with it.
I have got a 2000 V70 NA,2004 XC90 and 2010 XC90. Have also owned a 1995 850 and a 1994 940. All of them autos and all well in excess of 200k miles with no problems in the transmissions. The rotors can be had for around $800 for cross drilled and slotted 4 wheels. Use only Akebono ceramic pads they do not wear out the rotors and unless you are brake heavy they last 60-100k miles. My V70 has no wear to the rotors after 90k miles and I have half of the pads left. The XC90 is a little less than that but again great wear. The rotors are SP Performance. Most of my parts I get from IPDUSA and Swedish car parts. Whatever you do stay away from the 2003 to 2006 six cyl cars with autos,they use a GM trans and it is rotten,it does go out about every 40-70k miles. The inline 5 uses a asain trans and I can atest to it being outstanding as I have not had any problems in over 300k miles in any volvo with it.
Basically I'm seeing normal wear and tear that any car this age would have. 21 minutes to say it got the normal wear and tear a 13 year old car should have is too fucking long.
Roger J Nah not at all. This thing is pretty beat up and IMO, they overpaid for it. I'm getting an S60r manual thats electric silver and nordkap with almost no scratches/dents, 18 inch pegasus rims, and new struts all around for $1500.
I just picked up a 2005 XC70 in way better condition for $700. Although it has 344,000 miles on it, it runs smooth and seems to handle well.
If that is how a 13 year old car looks like in the states im super glad i live in Norway, here this thing would be really bad example of a 13 year old car!
1500$ for a R, your getting a piece of trash fo sure.
Well... considering I have my 940 -94 for 200euros and its better condition than this poor volvo :x
The bumper thing is completely normal, did it on my 05. You can pull the cover off and use a heat gun and some pressure to sort of massage it back up.
When I saw the part about the pin striping, I couldn't believe it. That pin striping color, layout and initials are the exact same as the striping on my 87 Volvo 740 turbo that my father bought from the original owner who was an eastern PA lawyer.
I always wanted one of these. Sigh. . . Someday.
Wow!
The sunroof issue may have been caused by a battery change done wrong. You have to turn the key to position 2 before reconnecting the battery. It is so all the modules boot up correctly. It is know to cause problems with the sunroof and window modules. +1 on the dead battery in the alarm module. I had to deal with that on my S60. It is in the fender behind the passenger headlight. Easy fix.
I'm wondering how many of those electrical gremlins are just related to weather-affected connections, specifically any exposure to sun / heat. This seems to be universal to many cars, especially those that go for long periods without needing nickle and dime intervention.
At this point, it's advantageous to have a friend with a garage and some time off do bring it back up to $40.000 standards. Dealership repair option is what makes it expensive.
I'm not sure if the V70 5-cylinder has the same problem, but I know of a serious defect regarding the timing belt of a large number of the 2.5L turbo 5-clyinder motors. There is a flaw where a bolt on a tensioner for the timing belt is too weak and is prone to breaking. I highly suggest you talk to a Volvo mechanic about this. If you are near central Massachusetts, I know of a mechanic/dealer who knows everything about these cars. He has been selling and fixing Volvos for over thirty years. I bought a V50 from the guy; nicest dealer I have ever met by a landslide.
Edit: This can happen at any mileage and occurs without warning. If the troublesome bolt had been replaced in the past with a stronger one, you don't need to do anything else about it.
The interior blower fan vent seal (underneath the wiper cowel). The A/C tube and or heater core o-rings can also cause the damp carpet. Suspension module shorts due to moisture in the foot well. The alarm module is in the front passenger fender. A special hex tool is required, requires taking the wheel off and going underneath the fender liner. All DIY. Factory service fixes for the aforementioned are available as .pdf on Google
Its sad to se a R in such a bad shape, with so little love shown to it.
You forgot a coupple of things wrong with it! Its not sonic blue, and it does not have the atacama interior.
But joke aside, i can guarantee you that the PCV is toast.
The error code on the suspention problaby is due to the toast strut.
But good to see someone taking care of a R! :D
Loving my 98 v70r, I'm in the prosess of giving it some love, and allmost all the mechanical stuff is top notch now!
Frufsa couldn't agree more! I have an 04 V70R with the Corinthian leather and a stick shift it's the best car I've ever owed! Not in great shape it's actually scary how similar it is to this car
when i had my s60 r it slowly started showing signs of abuse the turbo separated from the exhaust the active suspension sensors where going and all the rims where totally going they where curb rashed to hell i drove it for a year and put 50k miles on it, it was a loyal car but sadly i did not have the time or money to fix it
Frufsa, your R could ran forever, you know about it? Had S70T5 with manual gearbox and sold it with 243k miles on it (bought it with 78k on it). And yes Sonic are special, will never sell mine :)
Would love the V70R, but in Denmark, cars are expensive. A decent V70R '03 or '04 goes for about 32.000-34.000 dollars. Our '01 S40 T2.0 will have to do.
nikkeryge i have a decent one, it's yours for half of what you mention. 2005 m66 with 86k miles.You take care of the transport. I'm on the gulf coast.
You can wipe the pin stripes off with acetone.
To fix the A/C you might just have to shim the A/C clutch. Can be done with zip ties.
I love your car. I have an 04 xc70 and have been converted from a lexus/toyota only lover to a volvo lover instead. Really want to get my hands on the v70 r to add to the family. Great video's and descriptions. thanks and keep em coming
fog lights wont operate until the lights are on!!
The lights on the buttons inside the cabin we working upon delivery.
The lights on the buttons won't come on unless you turn the headlight dial to the on position.
would highly suggest getting a Volvo VIDA laptop with the DiCE unit. wrenched on my c70 for a while and it wouldnt be possible without it... the laptop will allow you to read and diagnose all of the codes...i.e. chassis service code: it will tell you exactly what is wrong and what needs to be replaced and will even give you the part number. and for the plastic trim on the front or any other plastic trim a heat gun will do the trick. circular motions not staying in one spot too long to avoid melting the plastic. hope this helped.
The AC did not break, 99% that it's the compressor clutch that's not engaging. Just gotta shim the clutch and it'll be good.
Don't bother with the factory fogs get a set of PIAA from ipd. Put a set on my 05 VR, they work so well I considered it a performance upgrade.
Nice to see an american ACTUALLY taking care of a Volvo.
Don't ruin the look of it (Y)
As far as I'm concerned Volvo quality died with the 240. Bought one new in 1987, still have it. By far the best, easiest to maintain and fix and just won't die. Later bought a 98 V90, their last RWD made. Biggest temperamental piece of machinery junk that was so overcomplicated with electronics and sensors.
I suspect you'll find when you get into it that the headlight mounts or adjusters have been broken, probably at the same time that the bumper was caught. It's not unusual for that sort of damage to the bumper to pull it down which breaks the plastic parts that hold the headlights quite often. It might also be that the front of the car has taken a hit which has bent some of the metal work behind the bumper which is also fairly common on these cars. I think those wheels could refurbish well in the hands of a good alloy wheel specialist and if you're planning on running them in the winter I would recommend having them powder coated and then clear coated over the top which should certainly help them stave off corrosion issues in the salty months. Finding another good set of R alloys for summer use could be difficult and they may be expensive and you need to be careful as these wheels can buckle very easily from hitting even quite small pot holes...
The bumper probably didn’t hit anything, they tend to droop on these cars without fail lol. The headlights are probably just mis-aimed.
Alarm is probably the batteri that is dead in the alarm system and needs to get replaced. Its common on these cars :)
Thanks! Good to know. I'll add that to the list of things that are broken. LOL.
ShiftingLanes to switch to comfort mode just have your finger on comfort and push it before the warning light comes up
yeah always that damn horn battery :P
yeah, battery, same issue on both my volvos.. 2001 and 2003
Yup, look up siren module, will fix sunroof too.
Grab a Vida/Dice setup off eBay. Should be about $200 +/- that will help with the codes that a regular scanner won't clear. There's a chance they replace the shocks with non-active ones that might be the reason for the chassis error. The alarm service is a known normal issue there's a battery in the alarm module that dies and you can open it and replace it or just replace the alarm module- easy plug and play. When you re working on it make sure u remove the battery connection before you open up the dash. If you unplug the hvac controls without unplugging the battery you will get the SRS light that you need a dealer to clear (or if you buy a vida/dice you can do it) the vida/dice is the same price as a dealer clearing the light once.
I've driven Volvos all my life and had several stock sleepers along the way. Outrunning Trans Ams back in the day was always fun! Now for the bad news - Volvo's break expensively! I can drop $3-$4K at the Volvo dealer without breaking a sweat. The security system error is because the battery died in the alarm siren (located in the right front corner) of the engine bay. An OEM replacement is $250 - $300. The sunroof stopped working because of the dead alarm siren (on the same network) - goofy I know! The suspension error could be a bad shock or strut if you're lucky - if it is a control module forget paying the mortgage this month! Heat coming from the A/C is probably a vacuum line problem, since all the HVAC controls run off of engine vacuum. Also many of the mods you may want to do will need to be blessed by the Volvo gods first (most of the car's functions need to be recognized by the car's main computer before they will work (VADIS). PLEASE DON'T put a roll cage in this car! This car already has a pretty sturdy factory rollcage. Just watch some of the NHTSA crash or Volvo rollover tests. This is still a great car, and the Swedes overbuild everything! Your car has a bulletproof motor, way stronger than anything coming out of Japan. I'm looking forward to what you plan for this car.
The alarm error mostly comes from leaking of battery acid fluid from the built in battery that leaks on the printed circuit board. This unit is situated above the right front wheel (accescible from the outside). Hope you get it all fixed! Keep us informed.
One thing you can check with the Alarm is the black pads on the back side windows, or the siren/alarmbattery
The alarm fail is just a battery you have to change, its a whole house in front of the right front wheel tho. You can buy a used one they are kinda cheap..^^ Its a common problem on these car i had same on two of my volvos always the battery.
It's not a good idea to do the delete that gives you full torque in first and second gear as the box is a bit marginal for the full performance in low gears and it can lead to the transmission failing and an expensive repair job... It can also very easily be death for the four-wheel drive system...
The Haldex issue on the issues list he's talking about is the rear differential. What he means is if the All-Wheel Drive is working, a very easy test is to put it on a hoist with the car running and put it into gear, that would roll all the wheels.
1. If only the 2 front wheels are spinning, the angle gear coupling/spline sleeve is shot.
2. If the propshaft spins but the rears don't, then the Haldex isn't working, either a solenoid or the DEM (you better hope it's not this).
To be honest, I wouldn't worry about all the fit and finish stuff you mentioned on half of this video and the previous (like trim restoration, foglights, headlights, wipers). Most are cosmetic, if you really wanted this as an M3 Killer, I would look at first getting the car to STAGE 0 mechanically. Then work up with all the bolt-ons.
To everyone that doesn't think this car would be decent enough to challenge an M3 E46, they need to do some research.
You need to replace siren alarm module P/N 9452709 to get rid of Alarm System Service Required message. Do not buy it used because the module has integrated battery with a lifespan about 10 years and after that the battery starts to leak and damage the circuit board in the module. Also this will fix sunroof and garage opener because siren, sunroof and HomeLink are reporting to the same module (UEM - upper electronic module). Most likely the fuse for siren will be blown as well.
I'm sorry but you got what you paid for..
And by the sounds of it you didn't do much research either.
It looks like a car that hasn't been very well looked after hence the price.
I have a rule when buy old cars on a budget,
Always have plenty in your budget to fix all the problems.
Eg: if you only have 5000 to spend... Only spend 3000 on the car and the other 2000 to sort it.
The seat and dashboard issues are caused by people not feeding the leather enough for the sun conditions. This makes the leather dry out and shrink which pulls the stitching apart. If it's left it will get to the point where the leather will crack and then split and tear. Giving it a very good feed regularly should bring it back to life and back to the correct size so that it can be restitched, any trimmer or a saddle maker should be able to restitch it easily and once it is repaired make sure all the leather (the dashboard and door trims, and probably the arm rest are leather trimmed) is cleaned and fed regularly, preferably monthly to make sure the problems don't recur...
If you haven’t sorted the “Alarm Service” issue yet, its the built in battery within the horn module that has failed and requires replacing. I had the same issue with mine in the past :)
Possibly a glass break sensor in the trunk is loose - or the module above the driver's head
Missing headlight wipers
just take the entire motor and blades off! its better than scratching lens... no wiper ,no motor , no problem :)
Good catch
they stopped equipping them with wipers after a certain year. I think 2001 is the last year for wipers, after that they went to sprayers which this car has.
was this for only the wagons? My S60R has the headlight wipers and its an 2007.
I own an s60 T5 2.4 black sapphire. Glad I don't have these chassis settings on mine. Don't even have seat heating (that's a bit of a bummer... 'bummer' 'seat' yeah, but ok), a manual, and a measured 275 metric horses at 6080 rpm... enough, and FWD.
My Volvo from 1999 has not that much problems. And the seats are beautiful and comfy.
Needs an alarm module, will fix sunroof issue also. Suspension is probably a strut, may have gotten water on the suspension module, its near your right knee when sitting in the driver seat. Water damage is from sunroof drains.
Be prepared for a 6-8k estimate from the dealer, independent might be lower
The interior blower fan vent seal (underneath the wiper cowel). The A/C tube and or heater core o-rings can also cause the damp carpet. Suspension module shorts due to moisture in the foot well. The alarm module is in the front passenger fender. A special hex tool is required, requires taking the wheel off and going underneath the fender liner. All DIY. Factory service fixes for the aforementioned are available as .pdf on Google.
Its the Maneuvor-unit in the driver-door that often is the reason why windows and mirror stops working.
Chassis not working because the Accelerometers are either disconnected or misaligned. There are quite a bit on this vehicle, if I remember correct, there is 8. The struts are not the problem, I ran Coilovers on my S60R without the delete and the Chassis wasn't stuck on Sport mode.
I would simply remove 4C / the Active suspension and that would be 2 birds with 1 stone.
Man, this will cost you a bit as my used XC70 04' to tune things up, but after that it is just awesome:)
I have only 209hp, yrs has way lot more fun, good luck! Lookin' forward for updates.
You can restore the plastic with a heatgun, i think chris fix did a video on in.
Had a 05 s60r with 234xxx miles on it. If you take care of it they last. But repairs get costly. I parted mine when i found out how much i could make on the parts
i own a 2006 v70r and its a great car im super happy
When you disconnect the battery the moonroof stops working w/ other things.if you lock/unlock w remote 3 times and these things don't come back online then you can turn "UEM" back on with VIDA. If still not working take the alarm out of R front fender and cut open inspect for damage. Join forums ASAP. You have a ton of Stage Zero work to do to keep it reliable. First things! Timing belt & tensioners** Service Haldex UNIT ASAP! flush fluid change filters clean inspect electric motor brushes.Service Front Angle Gear! Angle gear from Erie Volvo about $770 w lifetime guarantee. Clean Moonroof drains ASAP.
27+ year ASE Certified Master Euro Tech ,7+ Vocational Auto Shop Teacher, Previous Lead Tech @ Performance Motoring INC. Independent Volvo Sales & Service.
I'm on same exact project as you right now w/ a 2004 S60R same color ... Basicly and worn items I'm upgrading as needed ..
Volvo Guy , howdy there, do you have many problems with the CEM ? I've got an S60R that has the dash blinking out and the trans goes into some kind of limp mode, sending the CEM off to exemod for a re furb !
they are a good company , but honestly i would inspect circuit boards myself first to see if any damage or cracked solder joints.i also just bought a 2.5T with R parts on it and a XC90 the xc90 has a bad read diff motor. mind you many circuit boards are originally damaged by high amp draw by unprotected circuits . AKA if you need a new DDM"drivers door Module first thing i check is how many amps a window motor is drawing. if brushes are worn it will damage a new DDM... it only stands to reason. early years cars had poor quality solder but just like in the ABS modules..Remember everything happens for a reason.... and My CEM is perfect :) *think heat and amp draw...
If trans is going to second gear AKA winter mode. tons of problems w these :) so much to say in detail... just join forums and do your research. mathewsvolvo ..etc etc...
Who is the best tuning company for Volvo turbos? I have a 2006 xc70 that is healthy and I want to make it fly!
Too much electronic crap on these Volvos! Ive owned many from 1980s up til 2004 and wonder why you need a chassis sensor. Normally you can tell when your suspensions gone amuck. More sensors = more problem codes and a never ending set of dash lights will make you the owner nuts even tho many are not crucial it makes an owners pockets run empty. Never had this with my 760T or even the 960 (tho it was 20 years old and had a few gremlins of its own). Makes me want to never buy a later model Volvo. I now drive a 1999 Saab 9-5 yes its not perfect(but it handles better than the V40 wagon I had) but with almost 190K on the odo I have NO problem codes. Still LOVE the Swed cars!
Thanks for sharing!
I like some modern cars but you sir are right it's all great when working but there is "too much electronic crap".With old cars rust was the killer now it's electrical issues.I feel average owners don't know or once over "the novelty" care little for infinite adjustability of a vehicles complicated systems.I feel most just want it to start & go every time knowing they have a dependable vehicle getting to their destination with out sitting by the side of the road broken down.Then realising the ever looming possibility that the repairs may cost more than a cars value in a relatively short time.Any manufacturer giving the enthusiast access to a performance vehicle should realise chassis ,brakes,weight & a performance drive train to build on or a stripped version as "less is more" to us.As no product is perfect I decided that my cars will have no complicated vehicle electronics or driver aids like abs etc,I even have wind up windows & I don't mind one bit.
replace the resistor module on the AC ipdusa or pelican parts. if need help I been building a v70 so I ran into all the problem already
heyoooo! definitely subscribing to a fellow NJ car guy! want to see the progress on this, lately ive been watching too many volvo videos, kind of starting to like their wagons
Hey NJ! Another 2 videos and the process begins. We'll be doing a fan meetup in the winter/spring on this car to meet everyone who has subbed and to show everyone the progress we've made thus far.
The chassis service could be a number of things there's a faulty sensor in the back of the car That did it for me you can get it secondhand for not much
I have a '04 V70R with 110k and I love that damn car. It's the hot girl I should break up with, but probably never will, as she always has some issues.
I would say the same about my V50 T5 M66. Great car, but not without its faults.
Fog lights ain't supposed to work before you put the lights in park or higher. Not while the light switch is off.
Even on my US spec'ed 850 they didn't work until at least parking lights were engaged.
I spent over $18000 dollars in warranty work on two year old car,,,Volvo paid!!!,,,check out alternator,,,good luck,electrics on great car can drain wallet,,,I kept mine over ten years after initial problems,,,best car ever,,,I advise selling on though,,,!
Ac will blow cold then hot. It's your compressor clutch magnet is warm. You can rebuild it yourself. Or buy a new one.
I bought my 05 S60R for $4,200 with ipd turboback exhaust, Snabb turbo intake. With none of those problems. Dude you got ripped off. Unless your willing to dump thousands into that things. Btw make sure your reverse lights work. Big problem with these cars. That v70 is gonna break the bank.
Leather shrinks about 2" per foot. You need more stock leather from a salvaged car. Don't buy aftermarket leather. Again, the leather shrunk on the dash.
I would say it's been in a minor shunt and the front bumper been replaced with one from breakers/pull part .
Subbed! I own a 2004 V70R M66. I look forward to watching this build.
Nice! We'll more than likely to an M66 swap in the spring next year so stay tuned for that.
Moon roof and remote controls on the driver side visor can be due to a loose rear view mirror connector.
Pretty painful viewing. I’m soooooo glad your manual v70 R is so much better. Pete 🇬🇧
common "failure" of the front bumber to sag in the midle, there is a kit for sale that fixes the saging
The locking sensor is under the passenger side wheel well. The suspension is a 4c computer issue. Not to bad. Look up Ben McNally at rolling motors in Watertown ct. He's all Volvo and has a 475 hp to the wheels 06 s6 t5. Good luck bud
Also the sun roof not opening is part of the lockout system as well
Rob Albright I'll second Ben. He is the best.
you are in for a lot of surprises and sticker shock.
Erie Vovo has lots of Volvo wheels, parts, etc. Looks like a fun project.
I have the same problem with the front bumper on my '04 S60R . When you will repair it? I need to see how you do this :)
So what about the brakes, the transmission, oil leaks, clutch, oil levels, bushes, suspension arms, belts, etc etc i.e the things that matter!!! do you know anything about buying cars?
the stitching on the front seats is a common problem, because you have to rub your butt against it, if you want to get in or out of the car ;-)
my seats are still fine, nice and comfy with over 200k on it
Uggh tell me about it! I've got a mint interior other then the stitching coming undone on my seat. Had to tape it up for a while before I found a shop to fix it that didn't cost a ton of money
need new c 4 suspension and boost gauge alarm module
replace the alarm module and it will fix the sunroof
You could also plastidip those plastics while you are it, easy fix compared to the rest
The inoperable moonroof is due to the alarm system service message. Most likely the alarm module.
Dont plastidip those wheels! Use Bondo and some rattle can silver paint, I did that with some Volvo 17' Neptunes I had following the ChrisFix guide.
They do make a replacement gauge hood
What an optimist
At 18:39 you said it doesn´t pump hot air well ofc it doesn´t you have it on cold ....
wow you watched it so far?? I gave up after 3 min..
I don't think that you can get replacement rubber trim that runs around the windshield. But a Swedespeed member came up with a good process for refurbing them:
forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?474113-Windshield-rubber-trim-Deterioration-Fix-part-II
The chassis settings required message is likely related to one of the struts not working. It's possible that it could be one of the sensors, or it could be the strut's solenoid itself.
The alarm error code could just be the fuse missing for the alarm. If the PO wasn't driving it for a bit, they may have removed the fuse as to not trip the alarm when charging it up/replacing the battery. The car will remember the door's lock state even after losing power. So, unlocking the doors and then charging it up, will trigger the alarm.
For the subframe bushings, I'd just go straight for a performance aftermarket solution. These will really wake the steering up on the car!: www.kaplhenke.com/products/awd-fwd-delrin-subframe-bushings.
I've had a 2005 since 2008 and 50k miles. It's now got 245k on it. I've gone away from the 4C suspension and straight to coilovers. I have that warning light, but it handles better than it did with 4C.
Great info here. Going to add this to the list and look into these suggestions. Thanks Dana!
No problemo. I've subbed, so expect a bunch of comments from me as you do more!
Awesome! Thank you for your viewing dude. Be sure to hit the bell next to the sub button too so you get all our updates. Cheers! - SL
Did you jump the car to get it home on the flat battery?
The car was actually delivered right to my house from the dealer free of charge after purchase. After that, I just grabbed a fresh battery at Auto Zone and it started right up like a champ.
Dude they are gonna get you at Volvo dealer. I wouldn't even go there to have them look it will break you just for that lol. Can't wait to see tho
It's your strut actuators. One of them is frozen.
Get a DICE unit with VIDA. It will solve all your issues.
God Luck with your project Buddy!
the car has a bunch of sensors around the whole car and when one sensor goes out the suspension system wont go out of sport and they wanted 2k to replace the sensors hopefully cheaper for you
I have an 01 with almost 160k miles and its in way better shape than this. only thing it needs is a new sensor on the right rear door. (computer thinks its open all the time). whoever had this car must have been rough with it.
you have to turn the heat nobs up....for it to blow hot air
Yea it may have sounded like I said "not blowing hot air," but I said, "now blowing hot air," as in it was completely on the coldest settings, but it was PUMPING out blazingly hot air. Not good.
yeah i thought you said its not blowing hot air fair enough. Great video tho mate i own a S60 02 not the R version but i do want one XD
ShiftingLanes I have an '05 V50, and the A/C stops blowing cold if you let it idle for more than ten minutes. Turning the car off and starting it up again fixes the problem.
Where in NJ are you guys located?
Why are Volvo's soooo delicate. We have a 2004 S40, needless to say it's just sitting in the garage after a transmission job that now shifts so hard it jolts, all kinds of electrical gremlins and now suspension bounce.
My 07 has that same windshield rubber cracking.
Who makes it? i have not searched forums yet... is price good or should I source a used one?
ScottCo98 I rang my local dealership for a replacement rubber and they told me you would have to buy the whole roof mould... which was no longer available :(
Junkyard v70! That's where all my R's bits come from that aren't R specific
Alarm service is your front alarm module is filled with water and shorted. common issue. forums.swedespeed.com/forumdisplay.php?51-R-Forum-(2004-2007) .. please please get a VIDA/Dice unit... or ask around the forums for someone to scan your car with one in your area.... there are a few of us in NJ with them.
The tires look very old.
Hey I'm in Jersey too. Do you know any good Volvo guys?
4 grand for that Volvo ??????? NO WAY .....your going to spend more than that at a Volvo dealer.....doing it your self and parts from IPD and FCP Euro your still talking 2 grand...if you want a car to run and drive like new then buy new as the old cars are to drive till the major parts goes and you leave it on the side of the road....I owned 3 850's so I know them and the better you keep them the faster you buy part after part. my 97 850 had 235k when I sold it off and I did very little to it .
Been waiting for this vid, this week, becoming a dedicated follower...
The ac clutch need to be shimmed .... Its a usual issue
Do not change the wheels!!! Plastic can be restore. Please do not plasti dip it!!! This is a rare wagon, do not alter it!!! Just change the transmission and add a good new filter box. Question, when you turn to the max your wheel, do they toch the inside?? My with a 225 touches...
Mine touches, they all do, its common on these things
do you have a VIDA system yet? if not don't buy one!! I'll forward you a ebay link to a guy that will put it on your computer and then you will be able to plug the car into any laptop and use IT, ALSO its only $40.
Adam Feltes wow only $40 bucks? Do I need a Dice connector?
That pinstripe is not factory either get rid of it!
Stop whining, this is a great car....minor issues, take care of it and you will be happy. But over all its 13 years old car! Dont bring it to a mechanic -> DIY.....and please, shorten the vid!!
Of course the AC doesn’t blow out hot air when you have it on cold!!
The leather in these cars are pretty cheap you may want to check for the seat covers elwoodindustries.com they have been doing it for a several years. I have replaced several things on my s60.
This is the worst condition P26 R I've ever seen. Not even worth the money you paid ...
if it was mine it would always be in sport anyway
You might also need new struts, that an expensive one.
This is an R model, which means that, it's going to run a little hotter than a stock T5. At 16,120 you're nowhere near a timing belt replacement. However, unless you have proof that either a Volvo dealer or a Volvo specialist did this, than that ought to be your top priority. And, exactly what did they replace? Some really crappy shops will only replace the belt itself. You also need to replace the PCV system. There are way too many seals to check, & a lot of times, simple things like dry-rotted vacuum lines will cause issues. It doesn't matter what the interior & exterior look like; the engine only has so much forgiveness.