You are a GOD!!! It is a standard fix for GE washers that had a lid lock switch failure. Thank you I spent 40$ on tools and parts and saved about 200$ not replacing my control board and 800$ + NOT replacing my washer!! All HAil Mike!!!!
Good job sir, i have a similar model, board layed out a bit different but i found and replaced a blown mosfet like you said and i have clean clothes. It works! Thanks for doing the video
What is the part number of the one you got ?how can i find the part can i have the # of the one they recommended? I have the same issue same one is burned out . How has it been doing after two months ?
ACS108-8SN-TR was the part number I used from digikey. I cleaned off another triac that looked the same as the blown one and used those numbers to try to cross reference but couldn't find ANYTHING so I emailed digikey and they also couldn't find anything either, however, they recommended that part...at the time the washer was already broken so I gave it a shot...Been going strong with zero issues everyday😎 and it gets run ALLOT 😉
@@madmike214 My washer had the same problem and a new controller board was anywhere from $100 to $260 bucks depending on the source. Thank you for doing the ground work to get this part number and posting it on-line along with your excellent video showing the location of the part that failed. When I looked closely at my controller board, I could see a small burnt spot on the component that I didn't notice when I scanned the board last week. I just ordered 10 of the ICs from Digikey and I'm sure it will fix the problem with the lid lock, which keeps the machine from running a full cycle. You saved me (and probably many other people) a lot of money and I'm grateful.
Mike, thank you. What was the gel you put on top of the component before using the heat gun? Other materials are overcoat pen, heat gun with small hot air nozzle, soldering paste, copper mesh for desoldering, toothpick and flux, right? Anything else?
My issue turned out to be the software. I ordered the Software Update Module (SUM), which updated the firmware, and that fixed it. I took my board out and saw no issues with the lid lock transistor so I ended up not doing your repair. Thank you again for posting this.
@@l10ydchristmas very nice! I do automotive and have tooling for programming in that field...I thought about tooling for stuff like this but that desire faded lol
I’m in need of doing this, I first ordered a new lid lock, and found that it didn’t fix anything. I ordered a new control board before I saw this video, and installed it with the old lock. I now have two control boards that have that little component burned out on it. Did you have to replace the lock? I’m wondering if my lock coil shorted and popped the component on both boards. I have since ordered two new transistors to fix the boards I have but am hesitant to try them because I don’t know what’s causing them to fail.
@@madmike214 only asking because i'm only getting 50v from board to lid lock and i don't see any faulty circuits. curious if something else might be drawing power.
Sorry I couldn't be of more help, this was years ago and if I remember correctly I think I bought a repair manual... Don't remember where though. Good luck
My Temp/Soil/Spin buttons (GE GTW680BSJ6WS model) sometimes don't work (no matter how hard I press)...is that a motherboard issue and needs to be replaced?
Wish I could help, I'm not an appliance repair man, I'm automotive and industrial technician... Only thing that made my diagnosis correct on this particular video was a visual inspection where I saw the blown component... I would suggest doing the same. Use a magnifying glass or something and just look for burn marks or things that just don't look right
So it sounds like your washer would shut off right after draining and not spin to complete the cycle? I'm having the exact same problem on another GE but different model. I'm wondering if i should try to get into the motherboard and see if there is a bad transistor. Was it very noticable the transitor went bad after you took a look at the motherboard?
So u seen burn small.componet? How did u remove it? Did u just pull it of how did u put anither one on there? To make ot stay use sorting?so u changed the switch and anither ? Mine is gping theough cycles now after i hard reset it. Pkayed w vuttons alot.but wash clicks 9ver to rinse keeps clicking just all green lights just cut off. I can move it to spin it will spin. But...lid lock keeps clicking so it want go into cycle by itself. So... i need to look for any burned componets?
I used a hot air soldering and solder paste. With mine, I replaced the switch because it was bad mechanically as well (broken plastic) but when it didn't work everyone said I needed a new controller...at that point it's broken so I figured I'd open it up and investigate, I found the burnt component easily because it was so obvious, had it not been so obvious and I couldn't find something or some failure I would have just bought a controller
You are a GOD!!! It is a standard fix for GE washers that had a lid lock switch failure. Thank you I spent 40$ on tools and parts and saved about 200$ not replacing my control board and 800$ + NOT replacing my washer!!
All HAil Mike!!!!
Good job sir, i have a similar model, board layed out a bit different but i found and replaced a blown mosfet like you said and i have clean clothes. It works! Thanks for doing the video
What is the part number of the one you got ?how can i find the part can i have the # of the one they recommended? I have the same issue same one is burned out . How has it been doing after two months ?
ACS108-8SN-TR was the part number I used from digikey. I cleaned off another triac that looked the same as the blown one and used those numbers to try to cross reference but couldn't find ANYTHING so I emailed digikey and they also couldn't find anything either, however, they recommended that part...at the time the washer was already broken so I gave it a shot...Been going strong with zero issues everyday😎 and it gets run ALLOT 😉
@@madmike214 My washer had the same problem and a new controller board was anywhere from $100 to $260 bucks depending on the source. Thank you for doing the ground work to get this part number and posting it on-line along with your excellent video showing the location of the part that failed. When I looked closely at my controller board, I could see a small burnt spot on the component that I didn't notice when I scanned the board last week. I just ordered 10 of the ICs from Digikey and I'm sure it will fix the problem with the lid lock, which keeps the machine from running a full cycle. You saved me (and probably many other people) a lot of money and I'm grateful.
Mike, thank you. What was the gel you put on top of the component before using the heat gun? Other materials are overcoat pen, heat gun with small hot air nozzle, soldering paste, copper mesh for desoldering, toothpick and flux, right? Anything else?
The gel is flux, helps the solder melt faster
@@madmike214 thank you.
My issue turned out to be the software. I ordered the Software Update Module (SUM), which updated the firmware, and that fixed it. I took my board out and saw no issues with the lid lock transistor so I ended up not doing your repair. Thank you again for posting this.
@@l10ydchristmas very nice! I do automotive and have tooling for programming in that field...I thought about tooling for stuff like this but that desire faded lol
Yeah, good expertise to have. Thank you again.
I’m in need of doing this, I first ordered a new lid lock, and found that it didn’t fix anything. I ordered a new control board before I saw this video, and installed it with the old lock. I now have two control boards that have that little component burned out on it. Did you have to replace the lock? I’m wondering if my lock coil shorted and popped the component on both boards. I have since ordered two new transistors to fix the boards I have but am hesitant to try them because I don’t know what’s causing them to fail.
I replaced the lock... The lock was faulty but didn't fix the problem I replaced the triac on the board after I saw it was burnt up
I would say make sure you don't have any wiring shorting out as a precaution
Of course i will have to take a second look at my whitening pen. Never knew it could be used as a sub for solder mask.
I updated the discription to have the link for the part
Did you check for voltage before you noticed the blown circuit?
Nope, board was easy to pull off and it was very noticable
@@madmike214 only asking because i'm only getting 50v from board to lid lock and i don't see any faulty circuits. curious if something else might be drawing power.
Sorry I couldn't be of more help, this was years ago and if I remember correctly I think I bought a repair manual... Don't remember where though. Good luck
My Temp/Soil/Spin buttons (GE GTW680BSJ6WS model) sometimes don't work (no matter how hard I press)...is that a motherboard issue and needs to be replaced?
Wish I could help, I'm not an appliance repair man, I'm automotive and industrial technician... Only thing that made my diagnosis correct on this particular video was a visual inspection where I saw the blown component... I would suggest doing the same. Use a magnifying glass or something and just look for burn marks or things that just don't look right
So it sounds like your washer would shut off right after draining and not spin to complete the cycle? I'm having the exact same problem on another GE but different model. I'm wondering if i should try to get into the motherboard and see if there is a bad transistor. Was it very noticable the transitor went bad after you took a look at the motherboard?
From what I remembered the triac was actually blown apart so it was very noticable
So u seen burn small.componet? How did u remove it? Did u just pull it of how did u put anither one on there? To make ot stay use sorting?so u changed the switch and anither ? Mine is gping theough cycles now after i hard reset it. Pkayed w vuttons alot.but wash clicks 9ver to rinse keeps clicking just all green lights just cut off. I can move it to spin it will spin. But...lid lock keeps clicking so it want go into cycle by itself. So... i need to look for any burned componets?
I used a hot air soldering and solder paste. With mine, I replaced the switch because it was bad mechanically as well (broken plastic) but when it didn't work everyone said I needed a new controller...at that point it's broken so I figured I'd open it up and investigate, I found the burnt component easily because it was so obvious, had it not been so obvious and I couldn't find something or some failure I would have just bought a controller
How did u take the old one off? Just melt it òff witha sortinĝ how can youbtellni blown?
Hot air soldering station
Where did you get the chip from?
I think digi-key, i emailed them the number that was on it and they suggested one, they couldn't find the exact one but the one they suggested worked
is it real or you pretending to fix it
Wut?...
Wht is the number to the one digikey recommended? I'm having the same issue .
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/stmicroelectronics/ACS108-8SN-TR/3661697?OCE22RT&US&so=78199488&mkt_tok=MDI4LVNYSy01MDcAAAGHZzdvsxX1SWKEHQIRY4R-Z16RhUNrpGPsdQLZ8wmDvcBvBixJ6m6Xo9vLudO4fMC0zaITcoAOwAINjA4aI0N4zKKmu8SVBVkeH55H9xhj