The GE washer with the fuse are the ones typically before 2010 I believe. They have the green flashing light on the top of the circuitboard that you can see flashing from the right side looking in. The fuse I saw was between the top of the lid, and the bottom of the suspension strut with a big piece of electrical tape around it. it’s just an in-line thermal fuse. If the light on your motor is red instead of green meaning that it was after 2010 then there is no thermal fuse in line so don’t get confused
Replaced just the bearing on this machine which is on the mode shifter assembly. Water finally started seeping by the main seal which then pools on the bearing and ruins it. This results in bad vibrations and loud noise during spin cycle. Whole assembly cost ~ $175 but bearing (6006RS) is $15. Fairly involved job but replaced all shaft related seals and components while doing the bearing and now it runs like new. Super smooth and quiet. Maybe spend $30-$40 on repair. Took a while but we’ll worth it.
In our washing machine which is an older GE hydrowave there was a paper “manual” that was located inside of the dial panel (the whole top piece where the dials and electric and electronic pieces are housed) where the dials are and it has the listing of the codes and how to dis-assemble the machine.
Thanks Tom for a nice video. I checked the door switch, pressure switch, and then examed timer controller. They were all in good shape. I took the motor and controller off and examed components. I would almost ditch the washer and watched your video. I then stripped off the wire wrap finally found the blown off thermofuse. The machine works like a new after replacing the thermofuse. Don't understand why GE makes fuse so difficult to find.
Awesome, I have the very same model with the very same issue. I spent the last few days going through all kinds of videos before I came across yours. I did have different error codes and did not see any kind of LED lights blinking at all. I finally ordered a new switch for the lid as my multimeter showed that it was broken but a bad switch may have overheated the motor. I'll try the new switch in a few days and if no progress then I'll order a new motor as well. Thank a lot. Really a big help finding this video. Be safe out there.
The top control does not really communicate with the motor other than giving it wash commands. It cannot tell you errors from the motor. The motor is responsible for itself and the mode shifter. The lid switch is connected directly to the motor control Not the top. The motor normally has a steady slow flashing when waiting for a command from the top. Then goes to a fast flashing when operating. Any breaks in that is a code. These were good machines other than some mode shift failures. The fuse location is shown on the paper it's just below the top lid. The whole harness is wrapped in tape for the top half. But it kills the neutral to the motor so it would not have any light then
I have this exact model, purchased at sears about two years ago. Last night it quit spinning, only makes a clicking sound about two seconds apart. The new error washer, two years if you lucky before breaking, a GE Lifetime guarantee. My first washer was a whirl Pool, lasted me until we sold it like ten years later, only because my wife wanted a newer one without scratches, But from what I am hearing there are no more good heavy duty simple to use washers. Like anything, make it complicated, you get complicated problems.
Inside the machine somewhere is the factory spec sheet which contains the trouble code information. I started there & was confused because it does not tell you where to find the flashing light on the motor control board thankyou for this information my washer has the same symptoms.
Great video. Thanks. One suggestion. Get one of those huge zip ties and secure it around the motor (all the way around the back and zip it on the front) so that it holds the 3 wire harnesses wires firmly against the motor. One of my connectors inside the harness broke lose and made the motor not work. Locate the tie around the meat of the motor where the metals plates go around. It will hold the wires very securely and reduce stress on the connections within the harness. That sucker vibrates like crazy and the stress on those harnesses is pretty bad. If one of your wires break like mine did, it will be hard to replace the harness. I used some epoxy to secure it into its respective hole once I securely stuck it in the hole and made sure it had great contact with the harness connection. Thanks again
Thanks Tom for this video. It helped me to diagnosis my problrm. I too had power failure problem and thought the control board was fried. In the end there was a sock in my water pump.
I have a 3 tire surge protection system at my house. I have my washer plugged into a surge protected outlet. In addition I have a surge protection at my supply meter and a whole house surge protector on my load centre.
If you have a Hydrowave and it won't fill or start check the lid switch. This machine will not fill or run with the lid up or a bad lid switch. I fixed mine for $16.
Great video Tom. I followed it from start to finish. I have the same exact top load washer (GE Model: GTWN4250D0WS) the one you've shown in your video here and running into same issue where it will not spin nor agitate. In my case, when you debug the error code in position 2, none of the lights lit up, so not sure what to make of that. Interestingly, the circuit board on the motor just blinks red. I haven't replaced the motor, but curious what your thoughts are on what this issue could be. Thanks
Great Job, This just happened to me. I think the IBGT's go on them. Look at the huge heat sink that's were they are. It changes the single phase to a 3 phase system I don't think the motor goes but you said it's the inverter board that fails. Most likely due to the surge in the voltage, spiking the system. maybe a MOV would protect the electronics.
Did you inform them of the exact model number of your washer? It seems to me there is a mismatch of your model number and the one they sent to you does not fit.
My GE NEW Washer is not filling at all it's a Deep fill he-turbo. I do not like it at all. No water filling really it's brand new and it makes noise like no other. I'm sending it back. Any suggestions?
If it's brand new and there is something wrong with it, I'd return it. I really can't recommend a manufacture. I did recently hear that GE is no longer a publicly traded company so I don't think they are what they use to be. They recently sold their appliance division too. www.nytimes.com/2016/01/16/business/dealbook/haier-ge-appliances.html. I can only suggest you do some research online before purchasing another.
@@tmc200527 great bro...Glad you guys had good results... everyone please remember that sometimes it takes more than one try up to several tries that you'll get your timing right and it will work out most of the time. Don't get frustrated
And as a service tech I can tell you that the flashing lights are pretty doggone accurate on the codes but don't set your clock by them they can be a little bit deceiving on a few of them on certain models but on the whole they are pretty accurate
You're going to also need to always be aware in the future on these models about the magnetic door switch getting out of line or going bad that can really fool you into thinking you have a bad motor because it will mimic needing a reset and a reset is not really needed in the whole time it's the magnetic lid switch needing replacing GE Adora electric was pretty slick with this they gave you a little bit of leeway but not a lot of knowledge
Sorry I don't know the answer to your problem. I'm not an appliance tech I just tried to repair my wash. It gave me a couple more years but eventually it went to appliance heaven and I had to get a new one.
If your GE Washer dies you can always buy a used Whirlpool Direct Drive or a Newton Built Maytag Washer with the mechanical controls. Otherwise you can look into buying a Speed Queen Washer. Speed Queen Washing Machines are well made and American Built!!!
In general to take a belt off or replace it pass a string or strap behind the belt before (away from) the pulley to pull on it and rotate on or off the pulley)better than tools that could damage belt
We have this same model and a different problem: amonia smell. Few hours online we need to clean the agitator and remove the "gunk". Do you know if this model is the type that you pull straight up on the agitator to remove it?? I do not want to remove the super glue piece under the fabric softner thing if there is no bolt to remove.
If you search for appliance parts you will find information on how to remove the agitator for your machine. Partselect for example will have the manufactures assembly drawing showing the parts layout and how to remove the agitator. I believe all agitators have a bolt that holds it in place and it will be under a protective cap under the fabric softener.
Tom, nice thorough video. However, I have a question about the Spin Cycle. You ended the video saying the your repair by replacing the motor was successful as the washer started agitating. When it came to the Spin Cycle did it spin at high speed for the entire cycle so that the clothes were not sopping wet but just lightly damp? The way they were when the washer was new or before this problem arose. The problem I am having is that everything works fine up until the Spin Cycle. At the beginning of the spin cycle it will spin at high speed for maybe one minute. Then, the spinning stops, the drum/basket just sits there, but it sounds like the drain pump is working. The clothes are quite wet at the end of the cycle. That, of course, is because the machine spins for only 1 minute of the 8 minute cycle. Any ideas as to why the Spin Cycle is interrupted like thanks. Appreciate any input.
I had a similar problem. I checked the drum and belts for any binding. Even checked the pump and drain hose for blockage. Found out that the point where the drain hose goes to the house waste pipe is critical on these newer electric pump models. Really can't sufficiently pump drum if you're trap is higher than 5 feet above the floor. Hope this helps.
I have the same washer. Mine is leaking water. I had someone come out to check it - but when he came, it did not leak the water. I opened it myself and I can see the water is coming from the center of the machine. Do you have any suggestions how to fix it? ...your video was very informative.
I'm having the same problem with mine. Thought it was the lid switch but no such luck. I looked for the blinking light codes but don't see any on. Is it located in the back of the motor?
Mine did the same thing got a free lance repair man come out said he put a new motor in it, he left and I put in a load of clothes and it wasnt fixed wouldnt spin and water was still in wet clothes
Tengo un problema con mi lavadora al momento de lavar hace mucho ruido como que raspa en algo pero lo demas esta bien centrifugado lo hace bien y no suena feo como digo solo en la lavada ayuda ayuda
Si hace un sonido durante el ciclo de lavado, tal vez sea el raspado lateral del tubo de lavado. Las correas de amortiguación pueden romperse y son fáciles de reemplazar.
Tengo una ge hydrowave que lava bien, luego tira el agua pero, después solo exprime, para, exprime, para, exprime hasta que termina el ciclo, o sea que ya no enjuaga solo para y exprime, para y exprime. ¿Qué podrá ser? Gracias
@@tmc200527 amigo, no hay buena presión de agua, por otro lado el seguro está directo y por último, en el motor tiene un led que titila siete veces, ¿Eso es error y cuál? Saludos
@@tmc200527 gracias compañero, resulta que este modelo todo sensa, incluso la entrada del agua, si no hay flujo rápido, marca error de falla. Orita la estoy probando de eso. Gracias
Don't be agitated, leave that to your machine. My machine is not agitating and not spinning and...and it is not turning off when I open the lid when its still in a spin mode (I hear it humming when its in an agitate and spin mode, but its not moving)
Son buenos todos sus tutorial profe pero me gustar q para mi q hablo idioma español q se pudiera hacer en traducción español xfa muchas gracias bendiciones para todos
2:03 "... This is a direct-drive motor... " But at 12:39 "... One thing you have to do is remove this belt..." It's obviously belt-driven, not direct-drive
Direct drive refers to not having any form of transmission to handle speeds and agitation. This is absolutely a direct drive setup and is referred to as such by GE.
El problema que tengo con la lavadora GE hydrowave modelo GCWP1800DIWW - Serie LD958204G. Presenta lo siguiente : a veces llena, lava, no enjuaga, vota el agua y la ropa sale mojada. Ademas con el suicht apagado hace a caminar.
Puede ser un tubo de nivel de agua obstruido. th-cam.com/video/nrIZDqP9sEs/w-d-xo.html O el interruptor de presión del nivel del agua th-cam.com/video/PNUW-YuBz54/w-d-xo.html
@@lindamartin4173 is very hard to find that fuse , is called fuse link , is wrap up with tape in a bunch o wires that come down from the control board on the top to the motor , but if you have the wiring schematic it should show it , if you see it on the wiring schematic you have to remove the tape and find the white wire with a red stripe , you have to cut the wires and install the new fuse link if is open , before you do that you can check continuity from that wire , it has to have continuity from the timer or control board and the motor , other way to check it is to check the voltage at the motor , the motor has a harness with 3 or 4 wires , with the machine energized if you red 120v between any wire on that harness and the white with the red stripe , than the neutral is good , now if you don’t read 120v with the neutral , than use the ground ( metal parts on the washer ) and you get 120v with me ground , than the fuse link is open and need to be replaced
It was nice that you showed everyone how to change out parts on the machine but..... From watching this video you probably did a lot more work and spent time for nothing. In my opinion You took too long in the reset process at the beginning and the machine did not actually reset. You said "that's supposed to be it" when you completed the test. If you saw the lights blink you should have noted that in the video, that's a big deal. If the lights don''t blink then reset didn't happen. If reset didn't happen then everything after that is suspect. I think you were far too worried about getting video of your experience than paying attention to the reset process. Reset requires a rapid process to be performed in a short space of time and there is a response from the machine showing that the reset has happened. Sometimes you need to do it more than once to ensure it's success. RESET IS A BIG DEAL. The process is, and even this isn't all documented very well: Set the main dial to 9 o'clock; unplug machine from power for 5 minutes (best result), plug washer in and immediately (without commentary or delay), slightly lift the lid and lower it 6 times. WATCH FOR LIGHTS TO BLINK at after the 6th time. Lights don't blink, repeat from step 1. There is NO RESET unless all 5 lights on the main panel blink. There is no time during the reset for a pause for narration or to move the tripod. People watching your video won't know to watch for the most important part of the entire process..... ensuring that the eprom responds after it's been reset. This simple reset cures most all problems because the computer gets scrambled when power fails. It sounds like your power failed.
Direct drive means no belt. This hydro wave has a belt Reed switch is a lid activated by means of a magnet. Terrible washer for a family of more than 3
POR TODOS LOS VIDEOS QUE HE VISTO.. TODOS SON TECNICOS DE QUITA Y PON... NADIE REPARA NADA... FALLA 4 CAMBIO DE MOTOR.. FALLA 6 CAMBIO DE MOTOR.. FALLA 3 CAMBIO DE MOTOR. .. FALLA 7 CAMBIO DE MOTOR... HARE UN VIDEO DE MI TRABAJO Y CAMBIARE EL MOTOR... SARCASMO... LO MAS SEGURO EN TODAS ESAS FALLAS ES QUE SEA LA TARJETA INVERSORA.. REVISARE.. REPARARE Y CREO SUBIRE EL VIDEO...
Slow constant flashing with no delay after 10 flashes means there "no errors cleanable stored in the motor controller,.,th-cam.com/video/u9kTZwFsWTc/w-d-xo.html Make sure the lid switch is working , if your washer has a push button start switch it has an electronic timer/sequencer this has a self test mode also ,, Field Service Mode GE Hydrowave Washers - th-cam.com/video/ZPohzcgKxvw/w-d-xo.html
GE sold it's appliance division to a Chinese company. I recently was reading some Business story on Sears and was surprised to see a related story that mentioned GE was dropped from the Dow Jones industrial average too.
The GE washer with the fuse are the ones typically before 2010 I believe. They have the green flashing light on the top of the circuitboard that you can see flashing from the right side looking in. The fuse I saw was between the top of the lid, and the bottom of the suspension strut with a big piece of electrical tape around it. it’s just an in-line thermal fuse. If the light on your motor is red instead of green meaning that it was after 2010 then there is no thermal fuse in line so don’t get confused
Replaced just the bearing on this machine which is on the mode shifter assembly. Water finally started seeping by the main seal which then pools on the bearing and ruins it. This results in bad vibrations and loud noise during spin cycle. Whole assembly cost ~ $175 but bearing (6006RS) is $15. Fairly involved job but replaced all shaft related seals and components while doing the bearing and now it runs like new. Super smooth and quiet. Maybe spend $30-$40 on repair. Took a while but we’ll worth it.
In our washing machine which is an older GE hydrowave there was a paper “manual” that was located inside of the dial panel (the whole top piece where the dials and electric and electronic pieces are housed) where the dials are and it has the listing of the codes and how to dis-assemble the machine.
Thanks Tom for a nice video. I checked the door switch, pressure switch, and then examed timer controller. They were all in good shape. I took the motor and controller off and examed components. I would almost ditch the washer and watched your video. I then stripped off the wire wrap finally found the blown off thermofuse. The machine works like a new after replacing the thermofuse. Don't understand why GE makes fuse so difficult to find.
Awesome, I have the very same model with the very same issue. I spent the last few days going through all kinds of videos before I came across yours. I did have different error codes and did not see any kind of LED lights blinking at all. I finally ordered a new switch for the lid as my multimeter showed that it was broken but a bad switch may have overheated the motor. I'll try the new switch in a few days and if no progress then I'll order a new motor as well. Thank a lot. Really a big help finding this video. Be safe out there.
Did you fix it?
Well done! You took us on a very thorough and helpful trip through your repair. Thank your for sharing what you learned along the way. Big thumbs up!
I installed a new drive motor a new lid switch and lid switch magnet and my washer still doesn't agitate or spin what am I doing wrong
Its the same model you're working on
The top control does not really communicate with the motor other than giving it wash commands. It cannot tell you errors from the motor. The motor is responsible for itself and the mode shifter. The lid switch is connected directly to the motor control Not the top.
The motor normally has a steady slow flashing when waiting for a command from the top. Then goes to a fast flashing when operating. Any breaks in that is a code. These were good machines other than some mode shift failures.
The fuse location is shown on the paper it's just below the top lid. The whole harness is wrapped in tape for the top half. But it kills the neutral to the motor so it would not have any light then
I have this exact model, purchased at sears about two years ago. Last night it quit spinning, only makes a clicking sound about two seconds apart. The new error washer, two years if you lucky before breaking, a GE Lifetime guarantee. My first washer was a whirl Pool, lasted me until we sold it like ten years later, only because my wife wanted a newer one without scratches, But from what I am hearing there are no more good heavy duty simple to use washers. Like anything, make it complicated, you get complicated problems.
Speed Queen
Thank you very much for the time you took to film while you had that problem. It's very generos from you!
Good.
Inside the machine somewhere is the factory spec sheet which contains the trouble code information. I started there & was confused because it does not tell you where to find the flashing light on the motor control board thankyou for this information my washer has the same symptoms.
Great video. Thanks. One suggestion. Get one of those huge zip ties and secure it around the motor (all the way around the back and zip it on the front) so that it holds the 3 wire harnesses wires firmly against the motor. One of my connectors inside the harness broke lose and made the motor not work. Locate the tie around the meat of the motor where the metals plates go around. It will hold the wires very securely and reduce stress on the connections within the harness. That sucker vibrates like crazy and the stress on those harnesses is pretty bad. If one of your wires break like mine did, it will be hard to replace the harness. I used some epoxy to secure it into its respective hole once I securely stuck it in the hole and made sure it had great contact with the harness connection. Thanks again
Stator magnet gets red hot during operation. Be sure not to attach wires to the stator, or they will dry up and/or melt.
@@samueladams7798- very good point but I’ve been running mine for three or four years now and I’ve had no issues
Thanks Tom for this video. It helped me to diagnosis my problrm. I too had power failure problem and thought the control board was fried. In the end there was a sock in my water pump.
I have a 3 tire surge protection system at my house. I have my washer plugged into a surge protected outlet. In addition I have a surge protection at my supply meter and a whole house surge protector on my load centre.
I have insurance that costs way less than that. Call Geico
If you have a Hydrowave and it won't fill or start check the lid switch. This machine will not fill or run with the lid up or a bad lid switch. I fixed mine for $16.
Great video Tom. I followed it from start to finish. I have the same exact top load washer (GE Model: GTWN4250D0WS) the one you've shown in your video here and running into same issue where it will not spin nor agitate. In my case, when you debug the error code in position 2, none of the lights lit up, so not sure what to make of that. Interestingly, the circuit board on the motor just blinks red. I haven't replaced the motor, but curious what your thoughts are on what this issue could be. Thanks
Ďid u get it fixed
What model is being shown in this video, please?
I got a nine light code. I think it’s for brake resistor failure. Does that require a new motor or can it be repaired?
Yeah you will need a new drive motor.
Buenas tarde: Amigo me podria informar donde puedo comprar la tarjeta nueva del motor inverter de general electric? Muchas gracias!
Great Job, This just happened to me. I think the IBGT's go on them. Look at the huge heat sink that's were they are. It changes the single phase to a 3 phase system I don't think the motor goes but you said it's the inverter board that fails. Most likely due to the surge in the voltage, spiking the system. maybe a MOV would protect the electronics.
On that age of GE washer You could have opened your back panel and got your troubleshooting manual out.
I had a power outage , when came back on my machine wont power back on now there was a load washing during the power out happened
I’m looking for the link to the list of display panel codes he said he was going to put in the description... it’s not there.
Did you inform them of the exact model number of your washer? It seems to me there is a mismatch of your model number and the one they sent to you does not fit.
eTech Tom .... yeah- way to go man. great video
My GE NEW Washer is not filling at all it's a Deep fill he-turbo. I do not like it at all. No water filling really it's brand new and it makes noise like no other. I'm sending it back. Any suggestions?
If it's brand new and there is something wrong with it, I'd return it. I really can't recommend a manufacture. I did recently hear that GE is no longer a publicly traded company so I don't think they are what they use to be. They recently sold their appliance division too. www.nytimes.com/2016/01/16/business/dealbook/haier-ge-appliances.html. I can only suggest you do some research online before purchasing another.
@@tmc200527 great bro...Glad you guys had good results... everyone please remember that sometimes it takes more than one try up to several tries that you'll get your timing right and it will work out most of the time. Don't get frustrated
And as a service tech I can tell you that the flashing lights are pretty doggone accurate on the codes but don't set your clock by them they can be a little bit deceiving on a few of them on certain models but on the whole they are pretty accurate
Half second on half second off half second on have second off your in standby
You're going to also need to always be aware in the future on these models about the magnetic door switch getting out of line or going bad that can really fool you into thinking you have a bad motor because it will mimic needing a reset and a reset is not really needed in the whole time it's the magnetic lid switch needing replacing GE Adora electric was pretty slick with this they gave you a little bit of leeway but not a lot of knowledge
I HAVE THE SAME WASHER, MY WASHER DONT PASS FROM RINSE TO SPIN, THEY JUST STAY ON RINSE AND REPEAT INFINITY OF TIMES ... CAN YOU HELP ME PLEASE ?
Sorry I don't know the answer to your problem. I'm not an appliance tech I just tried to repair my wash. It gave me a couple more years but eventually it went to appliance heaven and I had to get a new one.
If your GE Washer dies you can always buy a used Whirlpool Direct Drive or a Newton Built Maytag Washer with the mechanical controls. Otherwise you can look into buying a Speed Queen Washer. Speed Queen Washing Machines are well made and American Built!!!
Thanks for this video. Very informative, and supplied accurate information to troubleshoot and repair.
In general to take a belt off or replace it pass a string or strap behind the belt before (away from) the pulley to pull on it and rotate on or off the pulley)better than tools that could damage belt
Hell0 just watched ur video my problem is the washer filled up with water but it isn't doing anything just sort of humming
We have this same model and a different problem: amonia smell. Few hours online we need to clean the agitator and remove the "gunk". Do you know if this model is the type that you pull straight up on the agitator to remove it?? I do not want to remove the super glue piece under the fabric softner thing if there is no bolt to remove.
If you search for appliance parts you will find information on how to remove the agitator for your machine. Partselect for example will have the manufactures assembly drawing showing the parts layout and how to remove the agitator. I believe all agitators have a bolt that holds it in place and it will be under a protective cap under the fabric softener.
So this washer doesn’t have a capacitor?
The capacitor is inside the motor!
Tom, nice thorough video.
However, I have a question about the Spin Cycle. You ended the video saying the your repair by replacing the motor was successful as the washer started agitating. When it came to the Spin Cycle did it spin at high speed for the entire cycle so that the clothes were not sopping wet but just lightly damp? The way they were when the washer was new or before this problem arose.
The problem I am having is that everything works fine up until the Spin Cycle. At the beginning of the spin cycle it will spin at high speed for maybe one minute. Then, the spinning stops, the drum/basket just sits there, but it sounds like the drain pump is working. The clothes are quite wet at the end of the cycle. That, of course, is because the machine spins for only 1 minute of the 8 minute cycle.
Any ideas as to why the Spin Cycle is interrupted like thanks.
Appreciate any input.
I had a similar problem. I checked the drum and belts for any binding. Even checked the pump and drain hose for blockage.
Found out that the point where the drain hose goes to the house waste pipe is critical on these newer electric pump models.
Really can't sufficiently pump drum if you're trap is higher than 5 feet above the floor.
Hope this helps.
My friend Jon has this washer but he not that smart I wish you could help him.
I have the same washer. Mine is leaking water. I had someone come out to check it - but when he came, it did not leak the water. I opened it myself and I can see the water is coming from the center of the machine. Do you have any suggestions how to fix it? ...your video was very informative.
Mine had a slight leak too and i was able to repair it myself. Here is a link to the video th-cam.com/video/Tbej0dRQnw8/w-d-xo.html
What was the model number of that motor?
I'm having the same problem with mine. Thought it was the lid switch but no such luck. I looked for the blinking light codes but don't see any on. Is it located in the back of the motor?
Blinking light is on the right side of the motor
Hello There- did you notice LED lighted in the Motor below the metal drip shield? Thanks
I looked in mine and don't see it
Mine did the same thing got a free lance repair man come out said he put a new motor in it, he left and I put in a load of clothes and it wasnt fixed wouldnt spin and water was still in wet clothes
The name of that paper is: PUB NO. 31-11628-2
Yes the only cycle it will go through successfully is fast wash can y'all give me some kinda insite please
Thank you so much for your insight all fixed and easy repair!!!!
Where can I find the motor? Do you have a link ?
Just search for appliance parts to find some options. I think I have used parts select in the past. You can also look on ebay.
What a great video, thanks for sharing
Tengo un problema con mi lavadora al momento de lavar hace mucho ruido como que raspa en algo pero lo demas esta bien centrifugado lo hace bien y no suena feo como digo solo en la lavada ayuda ayuda
Si hace un sonido durante el ciclo de lavado, tal vez sea el raspado lateral del tubo de lavado. Las correas de amortiguación pueden romperse y son fáciles de reemplazar.
Tengo una ge hydrowave que lava bien, luego tira el agua pero, después solo exprime, para, exprime, para, exprime hasta que termina el ciclo, o sea que ya no enjuaga solo para y exprime, para y exprime. ¿Qué podrá ser? Gracias
El ciclo de centrifugado solo utiliza agua fría. Si no tiene agua fría, la manguera está obstruida.
@@tmc200527 amigo, no hay buena presión de agua, por otro lado el seguro está directo y por último, en el motor tiene un led que titila siete veces, ¿Eso es error y cuál? Saludos
Aquí hay un enlace a un video sobre códigos de error. th-cam.com/video/6k2STiay2mI/w-d-xo.html
@@tmc200527 gracias compañero, resulta que este modelo todo sensa, incluso la entrada del agua, si no hay flujo rápido, marca error de falla. Orita la estoy probando de eso. Gracias
Don't be agitated, leave that to your machine. My machine is not agitating and not spinning and...and it is not turning off when I open the lid when its still in a spin mode (I hear it humming when its in an agitate and spin mode, but its not moving)
Maybe the belt broke? Unplug the washer and remove the front panel you then can look underneath to see if the belt is broken or not.
Thank you for your help! I learned a lot! 😊
Muchas gracias por su pronta respuesta.
Cual es la falla con 10 flash de el motor
God this was hard to watch. I actually figured my problem out through the comments lol
Son buenos todos sus tutorial profe pero me gustar q para mi q hablo idioma español q se pudiera hacer en traducción español xfa muchas gracias bendiciones para todos
2:03 "... This is a direct-drive motor... " But at 12:39 "... One thing you have to do is remove this belt..." It's obviously belt-driven, not direct-drive
Direct drive refers to not having any form of transmission to handle speeds and agitation. This is absolutely a direct drive setup and is referred to as such by GE.
Cuales eran los síntomas para cambiar el motor y cuanto dinero le costó?
El agitador no se movió. Solo llenaría y drenaría agua. Compré un motor nuevo en Ebay por $ 150 US
Buenas tardes. Como sabes que es el motor y no la targeta electronica?
El problema que tengo con la lavadora GE hydrowave modelo GCWP1800DIWW - Serie LD958204G. Presenta lo siguiente : a veces llena, lava, no enjuaga, vota el agua y la ropa sale mojada. Ademas con el suicht apagado hace a caminar.
Tal vez su bomba está obstruida? th-cam.com/video/qyx7sYWi188/w-d-xo.html
Puede ser un tubo de nivel de agua obstruido. th-cam.com/video/nrIZDqP9sEs/w-d-xo.html
O el interruptor de presión del nivel del agua th-cam.com/video/PNUW-YuBz54/w-d-xo.html
The fuse is on the neutral wire and when the fuse blows ; motor board wont light up
gracias Simon muy buen tip!!!!
White wire with red stripe-
No LED light is blinking and this model after 2010 has no fuse harness. How do you find and replace the fuse?
@@lindamartin4173 is very hard to find that fuse , is called fuse link , is wrap up with tape in a bunch o wires that come down from the control board on the top to the motor , but if you have the wiring schematic it should show it , if you see it on the wiring schematic you have to remove the tape and find the white wire with a red stripe , you have to cut the wires and install the new fuse link if is open , before you do that you can check continuity from that wire , it has to have continuity from the timer or control board and the motor , other way to check it is to check the voltage at the motor , the motor has a harness with 3 or 4 wires , with the machine energized if you red 120v between any wire on that harness and the white with the red stripe , than the neutral is good , now if you don’t read 120v with the neutral , than use the ground ( metal parts on the washer ) and you get 120v with me ground , than the fuse link is open and need to be replaced
Wh49x10055 , is the fuse link part number
It sounds like Woody Boyd is having a bad day
It was nice that you showed everyone how to change out parts on the machine but..... From watching this video you probably did a lot more work and spent time for nothing. In my opinion You took too long in the reset process at the beginning and the machine did not actually reset. You said "that's supposed to be it" when you completed the test. If you saw the lights blink you should have noted that in the video, that's a big deal. If the lights don''t blink then reset didn't happen. If reset didn't happen then everything after that is suspect. I think you were far too worried about getting video of your experience than paying attention to the reset process. Reset requires a rapid process to be performed in a short space of time and there is a response from the machine showing that the reset has happened. Sometimes you need to do it more than once to ensure it's success. RESET IS A BIG DEAL. The process is, and even this isn't all documented very well: Set the main dial to 9 o'clock; unplug machine from power for 5 minutes (best result), plug washer in and immediately (without commentary or delay), slightly lift the lid and lower it 6 times. WATCH FOR LIGHTS TO BLINK at after the 6th time. Lights don't blink, repeat from step 1. There is NO RESET unless all 5 lights on the main panel blink. There is no time during the reset for a pause for narration or to move the tripod. People watching your video won't know to watch for the most important part of the entire process..... ensuring that the eprom responds after it's been reset. This simple reset cures most all problems because the computer gets scrambled when power fails. It sounds like your power failed.
@ 13:00 watch the sharp bracket about to slice your fingers...wise to wear gloves ALWAYS please
Direct drive means no belt. This hydro wave has a belt Reed switch is a lid activated by means of a magnet.
Terrible washer for a family of more than 3
Alas! It worked!
Great information
thanks alot
No arranca el motor recoje el agua no arranca
You said you have 12 seconds If you count the time on the video it took you 14+ seconds to open and close the lid six times
POR TODOS LOS VIDEOS QUE HE VISTO.. TODOS SON TECNICOS DE QUITA Y PON... NADIE REPARA NADA... FALLA 4 CAMBIO DE MOTOR.. FALLA 6 CAMBIO DE MOTOR.. FALLA 3 CAMBIO DE MOTOR. .. FALLA 7 CAMBIO DE MOTOR... HARE UN VIDEO DE MI TRABAJO Y CAMBIARE EL MOTOR... SARCASMO... LO MAS SEGURO EN TODAS ESAS FALLAS ES QUE SEA LA TARJETA INVERSORA.. REVISARE.. REPARARE Y CREO SUBIRE EL VIDEO...
Slow constant flashing with no delay after 10 flashes means there "no errors cleanable stored in the motor controller,.,th-cam.com/video/u9kTZwFsWTc/w-d-xo.html Make sure the lid switch is working , if your washer has a push button start switch it has an electronic timer/sequencer this has a self test mode also ,, Field Service Mode GE Hydrowave Washers - th-cam.com/video/ZPohzcgKxvw/w-d-xo.html
Ge Washing Machine repair
We don't think there is anything wrong with your old motor you didn't let it fill up long enough to agitate.😊
Goood 😅
no any solesoin
I fixed mine resetting the motor! Maybe others try the reset thing more than once. th-cam.com/video/YZKqpoVX3t4/w-d-xo.html
I hate this washing machine!!
GE is garbage. I bought mine a little over a year ago and it already has problems.
GE sold it's appliance division to a Chinese company. I recently was reading some Business story on Sears and was surprised to see a related story that mentioned GE was dropped from the Dow Jones industrial average too.
Maria Gemoets I used my GE washer for over 20 years with no problem, It just the luck of the draw.