You're a really intelligent guy. I work in HVAC (appliance) service and although you were not able to read capacitance, you did everything really well in diagnosing a bulged/burnt capacitor. Thanks for helping so many people out. Blessings to you & yours!
This is exactly what my issue was. I searched forever and tried everything until I came across this video. I tried to replace the capacitor but I fried the board. I ordered a new control unit for $150 and it is working perfectly. A tech would have easily charged me $800 for pats and labour. Thank you Sir!
Just want to thank you for your video! We just fixed our washing machine for $0.85! We were quoted over $400.00 for a new board and because of your video we made an attempt to fix ours on our own and it works perfectly!
I CANNOT thank you enough for this!!! I had an appliance guy scheduled to come out and I found this video the day before. I cancelled the appointment, pulled the board, saw the EXACT bloated capacitor, replaced it, and IT WORKS. You saved me hundreds!!
oh Weakest of Weeks, you made my week. Low and behold, my husband took out the control board and sure enough, that little sucker was popped. The whole cost to fix my Whirlpool Cabrio was a whopping .99 cents. Thank you for saving us a few hundred bucks!
Just a note, when replacing "any" bad Electrolytic type capacitor like the one you are replacing, orientation polarity of these devices matters and is indicated on the side of the capacitor by the white stripe with the negative symbol over that pin , installing one backwards will usually do ugly things to the capacitor and the circuit its used in so just use care to reflect the polarity of the original you are replacing.
Yes, that is very important to get the capacitor in the right polarity. People should definitely take note of the orientation of any blown capacitor before unsoldering it.
I replaced all mechanical parts to stop the banging and the uL code, but no success. So now it's time to check and fix Electronic Control board. Looking for the 100uF capacitor, I need to specify the accompanying volts. Does anyone know the volts specified for this capacitor?. Thanks
Here's a... "pro tip" ? Might not be as big of deal in this instance, except for taking photos of the board to remember how the capacitor was oriented _(as they do have a "positive" and negative post)._ But always take pictures before disassembling ANYTHING. With smartphones these days, can't take too many pictures. Makes it so much easier to reassemble and if nothing else just gives you something to "double check" against. Also gives you a "story line" of your disassembly and makes it easier to put back together in reverse order without forgetting something.
FWIW, size does matter here. Kind of. You'll notice that the blown cap (C1) is rated the same as the one just next to it (C180) but they're different sizes and color (on my board at least). That's because the lager C1 cap has a higher ripple current tolerance ... although apparently not high enough to prevent it from pooping itself. If you just have capacitors lying around then use what you have but if you're ordering them online you might as well make sure you get ones that can handle higher (>=1500) ripple currents. I had the same symptoms with the same blown cap and just ordered a United Chemi-Con EKZN100ELL102MJC5S off of Mouser which matches the existing size but can handle slightly higher ripple currents (1700) and voltage (10v). Hopefully that should help it outlast some other part.
This also works for Maytag Bravos belt drive washers!!! It is the exact same circuit board, even has Whirlpool printed on it. Just spent the better part of a day going through the service manual and doing all the diagnostic tests. I narrowed it down to the main control board and was surprised at the cost of the part. I came to TH-cam to see if anyone had similar issues, and sure enough, BAM, here is your video. Looked at the capacitor on mine, and it looked sort of ok, like yours did. Removed it and replaced it with a spare I had on hand of a similar value and Presto!!! Back in business. Thank you for your video. Just in case anyone was wondering what the symptoms were on my machine, when you closed the lid and pressed the start button, the lid would lock, and when it went to spin the drum to see how much weight was in it, it would just make a loud hum. It wouldn't stop, even when you pressed the power button. The only way to make the humming stop was to unplug it from the wall. At first I thought the start capacitor was bad on the drive motor, but it tested ok. Occasionally, it would make it past this step and actually wash a load of clothes. My wife was furious when it took her four or five tries to get a load washed. Now maybe she will be able to wash in peace. LOL. Thanks again!
Wow! guys!!you guys are awesome i just looked at mine and mine is us actually blown out with like black stuff on it. Unlike you guys i dont have capacitors laying around
Can't thank you enough for this video! Mine had the same issue. Searched all over locally and couldn't find any stores with the right capacitor, but hit up a CB radio repair shop and they replaced it for $15. I've never replaced a capacitor and had none of the equipment, so it was a bargain. Washing machine works like a charm now.
Thank you very much. I am glad I saw your video. I opened up my washer control board and surely enough, the Jamicon brand 1,000 uF 6.3V capacitor is swollen/popped up. I could not find the exact match in Amazon. The 1,000 uF 6.3V that sustains heat up to 105 degree C made by Panasonic sells at eBay 10 pcs for $6.50. I will buy them and try to replace it. Update: I received the 10 pcs capacitors and replaced the bad one. My washer works now. One advice to you all, when you remove the burned out capacitor, use a fine point soldering iron on the two legs and a tweezers to hold capacitor at the bottom on the other side. The capacitor does get very hot. As the solder melts, pull the capacitor out with tweezers. Then, use a needle to drill the two holes left by the prongs of the capacitor, so the new one will be easier to put in.
My Mom had a Crosley washer _(which is made by Whirlpool),_ bought around 2015 and it has the identical board as what you showed. Started having problems a couple years after purchased, but now it will fill but then just blink the "fill/sensing" light. Never tries to move the motor nothing. But I can "cancel" the cycle and it will drain. Running diagnostics _(which I didn't even know you could do on these type washers until the other day)_ it gave me a code of F15, which apparently for a Crosley is a "bad board". I already bought another washer for my Mom about 6 months ago. But I took this washer over to my shop where it has sat until now as I have been too busy to look at it. But I figured I would see what the problem was and what it would take to fix it. I found the boards, don't want to put that much money into it. So I thought I would look up about repairing it. Found your video, and it doesn't surprise me at all that the most likely culprit is a capacitor. I've changed capacitors on other electronics before, I honestly think they use these as a "planned failure" point as most people would throw out the washer and buy a new one. In any case, Thanks for the Great Video! I'm going to remove the board today and take a look at it. I'm betting this is my problem. I might even have the right capacitor on hand 🙂 ----------------- UPDATE: It wasn't the capacitors or the board. They looked perfect, and in the end found the board worked perfectly too. I ended up finding out "more correct" info on the diagnostic codes. One of the possibilities was that somewhere in the wiring harness a connection wasn't making good contact, was corroded, or a broken wire. So I ended up unplugging every connection on every part of the washer, looking at the connection for corrosion, broken contact, etc. Went through one at a time and plugged each one back in after inspection. Tried the washer again, it went straight through a cycle without issue🙄 So I went through every connection again and applied some electrical anti corrosion compound that I had purchased from an electrical supply store _(I always keep this stuff on hand, great for all electrical and battery connections)._ I plugged each connection back in. Put the washer back together. And ran it through multiple cycles without a problem. So that fixed it. I will state that I never once saw any corrosion, but somewhere a connection just wasn't making good enough contact. So must have been just enough on the metal surfaces that when I unplugged and re-plugged the connection back together, it made contact again. So it's definitely worth checking if you can't seem to find a solution or just want to eliminate the possibility. And it doesn't actually cost anything but some time and work. Now I got an extra working washer sitting in my shop... As I also just cleaned and repaired a 22+ years old Kenmore washer/dryer stack unit that had an issue with not shutting off the water. So it had been sitting for a few years now, but was able to replace a few parts and it works perfectly too. I use it mostly for work clothes and rags. And to be honest, this 20+ year old washer is MUCH Better than any "modern smart washer" that is supposedly "smarter" than the person washing the clothes... yeah the one's that won't let you stop it and turn back the dial for a longer wash time, or when you want them to soak longer, or you want to run through another rinse cycle or etc.... OR when you "paused" it for a few seconds to long and it empties all the water out for no reason... 🙄🙄 In any case, thats why I put some money into repairing our old washer/dryer stack unit. I kinda hate the new-er washers.
I got an F1 E2 error code on my Bravos washer and came across this video just trying to find out how to use a voltmeter for the next step. I took the circuit-board out to see if I had the same blown capacitor as you did and... yup. Thanks for taking the time to upload this. Saved us a lot of money and helped us feel more capable.
Ive had so many bad capacitors between old computers and ancient electronics, that bulged cap stuck out right from the beginning. Good tutorial, caps are easy to fix and a pretty common problem with tons of electronics.
Another thank you from a satisfied viewer. My friend's washer seemed dead, sensing light would come on steady, or just flash, if you held cancel for 3 sec. No other clicks or action, wouldn't go into diagnostic mode. She's on a very tight budget right now, so I said I'd take a look. After trying the tech manual, checking the forums and other videos, it seemed almost certain it was the control board. Luckily, I also stumbled across your video. I pulled the board out and inspected the caps. Three looked suspicious: The two tall 22μF 250V caps a little north of that transformer, and one 220μF 25V cap at the northwest corner of the transformer. I couldn't find a battery for my ESR, so I just replaced all three. Even if they weren't all bad, the fix cost me $2 and some time. Powered up fine, back making clean clothes out of dirty ones. Saved her $60 for a repair visit and at least $150 for a replacement board (and I've seen them listed as high as $250, no telling what an appliance repair shop would have charged).
Hello Russel - Haven't pulled the board yet andwant to order capacitors in advance. I just want to confirm the voltage - two 22uF 250V and the 220uF 25V. Is this correct?
I was having issues with my Maytag... did some TH-cam research, replaced the shift actuator, same thing... until I found this... gave it a try, the exact same capacitor was kinda blown on mine (and the one beside it) so I replaced them both. Good as new so far!!! Thank you very much!!!!!
I actually had a refurbished board in my cart when I found this video. My board had 2 puffed capacitors on it, the same one you had and the one just above it. I had some 25v 1000 caps here my friend soldered in for me and now the washer runs perfect. Thanks for posting this video. From the comments I read it looks like you helped many people.
Have a Whirlpool Cabrio and had the same problem. Replaced the same blown capacitor and it worked. Thanks for taking the time to make and share this video.
Thanks for posting this video I just fixed my washer! Found the capacitors at an old school electronics store about 20 miles from my house, 5 for $6. I had a bit of trouble taking the bad capacitor off the board but I hadn't soldered anything in years.
Thank you so much for this video. Turns out the same capacitor was problematic on my Whirlpool Cabrio -- top was bloated and bottom was popped out, with just a bit of char on the board. Replacing the capacitor was an easy, inexpensive fix with the help of a friend who solders. Yay!
Be sure to get a capacitor with the name rating (uF) and at LEAST the voltage on the side of the cap. Generally you'd want a direct replacement since the physical size of the cap may be different with higher voltage, but it IS safe to replace a cap with a higher voltage replacement. The voltage is the MAX voltage the cap can handle.
Ended up having to do the same fix on my Kenmore washer which stopped engaging the spin cycle. Caps were bulging. Replaced the three small caps with same uF rating but 25V parts (left the large filter ones since they usually don't fail) and my washer works like charm again :)
These electrolytic capacitors are what we call in the electronics world the cause of “planned obsolescence”. I’ve seen this same thing in garage door openers, home computer printers, car transmission computers. Yeah, they start to short out internally and the electrolyte fluid can leak out through the bottom into the board. They are often used in a circuit to filter out line noise, or to smooth out voltage fluctuations. They also function like a very small storage battery as they can be charged up with voltage and the energy released, so be careful on the very large ones as they can produce a very bad shock! Or burn! They were used in the flash units of single use film cameras to power the flash. To test them correctly and accurately you need to remove them from the circuit they are in. Then apply your tester or meter. To create planned obsolescence the design engineers will often use a cap that has a lower voltage rating than the circuit, e.g. a 6 volt cap in a 12 volt circuit. It eventually fries the cap! And the green colored caps are notoriously inferior quality- Samsung?
Thank you for this video! Exact same capacitor blown on my Whirlpool Cabrio control board as yours, Radio Shack had the part I needed plus a soldering kit. The hardest part was melting the old solder to remove blown part. You saved me so much $$, plus I feel like a rock star!
I'm am pretty well versed in the fundamentals due to my passion for electricity. And I'd say you hit the nail right on the head here good work brother. Greetings from cold Albion, Maine my friend
Incredible! Was about to shoot holes in this thing, exactly same problem was showing error like a lid lock, but when replaced. Would not go in standby. Lid lock blinking and clicking sounds also could not enter manual test mode to check independently
Just ordered the board. I have a week so I am going to try this, thank you so much. I have no idea how to take it apart so this will be an adventure. If anyone has a link that starts at the beginning, taking the washer apart could you please post it? Thank you for this tidbit I am sure it will continue helping a lot of people!
My clockwork washer has been going strong for 40 years with a $5 repair on the agitator cams. Now you're lucky to get five years out of a $500 washer bc a 50¢ capacitor blows. It's not a bug, it's a feature.
We have a cabrio washer thats throwing the same error code. I'm going to look at the circuit board this weekend which is almost $300 to replace. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video. The exact same capacitor went out on our board on our Cabrio washer. I've never really soldered, but together my husband and I replaced the bad part. Thank you, thank you!
I have this washer: MHW5500FW1 and it beeps and flashes like it's a rave. Occasionally it will settle on a cycle and we can actually use it. It gives the code for the door lock, which is weird because it does the same thing with the door open or closed. I thought I'd look at the control board for it based on your video, but it's such a different layout.
Thanks W of W ! I've got the same problem,where the keypad is unresponsive,lid sw. tests good, and there's power to all points on control board. The 2200 uF 10V cap is bulged and a burnt haze around the bottom. Today I'll hunt down a supplier locally or may have to order one. I'll update after replacing.
@Weakest of Weeks -- I have an Amana (Whirlpool brand) Washer. Check this, I can't get it to turn on. I pulled the control board to check for any blown capacitors, but they're all fine. Checked the tops, the bottoms, none are bloated, no leakage, and they look good. I checked the ON button (it clicks when you press it) and it works fine. All the soldering points on the board look fine. Power outlet works fine, just can't seem to get the washer to turn on. Thoughts? Bought the washer new for $400, found a used control board on ebay for $120. Cancelled the order when I saw your video, thanks for making it.
It's been while since I've posted this video but my Whirlpool Cabrio washer is still going strong after replacing just the capacitor! Since some had questions getting access to the control board, here is a video I created to show that. Please like, share and sub! th-cam.com/video/7cRj2XBCrsg/w-d-xo.html
I got a free Amana washer and someone tried to bypass the lid lock and fried the board. These electronic controlled washers are not like grandmas used to be. Inspected the board and found an exploded triac and a burned R050 resistor. Replaced both but still no go. Found this video and looked really good at the caps with a magnifying glass and sure enough the same one as yours was slightly bulged and had dried electrolyte around the edges. I ordered all the capacitors 2 of each in case I fluk a few up and waiting on delivery. Thanks for sharing this.
For what it’s worth, don’t force the leads out when removing. Mine were bent and I guess I pulled too much on the resistor and the sleeve came out with the resistor. I can’t find anything about this sleeve anywhere. Trying to get it off the resistor now so I can stick it back in the circuit board
Thanks for the video, I just thought I would pass on a bit of information for you and or anyone who’s watching If you don’t want to read all of this rambling, here’s the quick summary- Most modern meters measure capacitance, Even $15 ones However capacitance reading doesn’t have all the information you need to determine a bad capacitor!!! An ESR meter will give you a better idea if the capacitor is bad, and they can be purchased for as cheaply as $6!!! If you want to buy an inexpensive meter that does it all… I like the ANENG V8 for $35 or the ANENG AN8008 at $17 Buy one of those multi meters and a $6 LCR-t4 ESR meter… And you can do it all. It really is a golden age of technology!!! PS....TH-cam is your friend OK if you want to read further… Here goes 90% (or more) of modern multimeters can test capacitance value. Your particular meter doesn’t, however The cheapest and best meters made today will measure everything from AC and DC voltage, capacitance, resistance, diode’s, and many other things. I have a nice (but humble and small) electronics lab full of professional equipment. Most of it I have repaired myself, Because it would be ungodly expensive to purchase any of it new. I have several $UPER nice high-end meters… But the ones I use most are modern enexpensive meters. Sure... if I need to do something precise I flip on the HP 34401a benchtop meter, or one of his siblings. But 99% of the time I’m using an inexpensive meter. My favorite inexpensive meter at the moment is the Aneng v8. I got it for $30 a few months ago, put it through its paces, and it has everything under the sun. It does everything just as accurately as meters that cost me over $1000!. It’s been checked against professional calibration equipment and other certified calibration sources in my lab. It may not last 40 years, it might drift over time, but in my experience the main reason professionals buy expensive meters like flukes and HPs over something such as the nice modern inexpensive meters… Is for reliability. So if you’re working with high voltage on a daily basis as a career, and your and other people safety depends on it, then go spend $500 on a meter. But the modern inexpensive meters are incredible feats of engineering, and we are living in a golden age of test gear. So if you’re interested in electronics, or just like to be able to diagnose and repair anything from now until you die… Buy a decent inexpensive meter, no reason you should spend over $50. I’ve tested dozens over the last few years and the aneng v8 is really amazing. I put all of the meters I test through some real rough conditions, abusive voltages, and destructive testing. I examine them inside and out, and really give them a hard time. So if I’m recommending this meter… It’s not just because it’s pretty. Another large difference in super expensive meters and the cheaper stuff… Is quality control. Modern manufacturing and quality control is incredible… Even in the cheapest Chinese factories. Sure people bash stuff all of the time… But you don’t realize that 90% of the electronics you use on a daily basis, from the airbag sensor in your car, The marvels of technology in your cell phone… Hell even everything floating in outer space, and everything you can and can’t see… 90% of it was made in a Chinese factory. So yes some of these cheaper modern meters might be duds. But it is rarer and rarer..... and I hate to break it to you but most of the highly expensive meters sold by American companies to professional laboratories… They’re made in Chinese factories too. So you’ve got a good meter… Now get an lcr meter. I won’t go into the details of what this does but it gives measurements that you absolutely have to have doing most repairs. If you have an LCR meter and a multimeter… Along with a decent soldering iron… You’ll be able to diagnose and repair a lot of things from now until the time you die. Not to mention you might get interested in this stuff and take it up as more of a tinkering hobby. It’s a lot of money to be made also… Repairing washing machine boards and such. The cheapest LCR meter is the one I mentioned before.... the lcr-t4. Which is six dollars from Banggood. I’ve had a dozen of them since they started cranking them out five or so years ago. I’ve killed a few by mistake but at that price it didn’t bother me. If you can spare the $20… I highly suggest getting an LCR-TC1. It’s a LCR/ESR meter With color graphical display, built-in rechargeable battery, and will do a lot more than the cheaper ESR meter. It’s an amazing piece of technology to say the least. So with a $20 LCR-TC1 and a $30 ANENG V8… You can do almost anything. If you don’t have a soldering iron I highly suggest purchasing a KSGER T12 soldering station. At the very least just get some type of T 12 soldering station. Several brands make them starting at around $25. But the KSGER has way better quality control, better components, better user interface, and has more safety features and a better power supply. If you buy the nicer soldering station, the nicer LCR meter, and the nicer multimeter you’re still just under $100. With that equipment, patients, TH-cam videos, and the knowledge that you can gain from tinkering… You can repair almost anything. Like I said… Most of my lab equipment was really cheap because it was broken or untested, and I had to go through the trouble in time to repair it myself and havehave it calibrated. But if I had to go out and buy all of that stuff (even on the used market) in working order it would be well over $20,000. So when I’m recommending this inexpensive equipment… Just know that I know what good equipment looks like and how do use it. And yes of course the super expensive stuff is better… But with a little patience and learning you won’t be able to tell the difference unless you get a job at NASA or something Hope this helps someone.
My washer isn't spinning the water out of clothes. The repair guy said it was the control board needing to be replaced and perhaps the shifter as well. I'm wondering if the capacitors being ruined will cause the washer to completely not work? Probably it's not the capacitor for my spinning issue right? Because the machine still does function in other ways.
We have a Whirlpool Cabrio Platinum washer that we bought used 2 years ago and we just got a plain "F" error code. I unplugged the machine from the wall for about 5 minutes then plugged back in and pushed the power and pause button simultaneously until it reset itself, started another cycle and it works for about 10 minutes and throws the F code again. It's done this 3 times tonight and the F code points to a bad control board although I don't know if it would be this capacitor or if the F code by itself indicates something different. Guess I'll take the board out and check it over. Thanks for the video.
I removed our control board and ours is slightly different. Ours is a Cabrio Platinum and I believe it was made around 2011 give or take. This control board looks a bit different, it doesn't appear to have the capacitor that went bad on yours unless they put it in a different spot, this one does however appear to have the other two side by side similar to yours. I don't see any black spots under one of those two but it feels like the top is more flush than the other one which dips down in the middle slightly. I think I'm going to go ahead and find a matching capacitor and replace it and see what happens and if that doesn't work I'll probably just order a used one off of Ebay for around $50 to $70.
thanks for taking the time to make this I have my board out now I'll check for this issue in the morning that would be pretty cool if I found a blown capacitor
Nice vidjeo; that I wish I'd seen last week . . . the best fix I found for our Maytag #MHWE400WR01 . . . Was to buy an older whirlpool direct drive with no electronic boards. A refurbished one will go TEN to FIFTEEN years with no issues!
Mine's a Frigidaire gallery front loader, but I bet the same thing applies. I'm going to take out the control panel and see if I can identify a problem. Thanks for an informative video.
Why are capacitors always failing in laptops to washing machines? I fixed vehicles at dealerships but learning don’t stop there. I have a Fluke 87-5 which does have capacitor reading and I don’t know many will spend $500 or more, but ask, research. Capacitors store energy for short periods of time as the (+ / -) symbol means it is electrolytic so sensitive to positioning or polarity. They operate on circuit board with 3 volts, 5 volts, 12 volts of more. This is regulated voltage to that part and varies. Caps are connected to resistors of fixed value so the charge or discharge with a math RXC= time. Worried, simply get a pocket flat blade or wire, touch both wires and the are discharge. A good visual with good light and magnification will help, but normal the tops do pop or bulge and not the bottom. Oh well, yours may vary. Photos taken before disassemble always helps get things right. Always replace a capacitor with same or higher voltage, but stay close, not under the “Micro-Farrad” rating. Soldering takes practice but a copper braid is sold to wick up liquid solder to keep the pads or holes clean. Apply a little flux for electronics to add solder to help transfer heat. Solder melts between 410 degrees F to 520 degrees F as silver content, ratios change as they do away with lead, but once liquid, wick up loose solder. Tiny parts result in tiny connections, so be clean, do not bridge solder across two terminals when photos show “No” connection. You can pre-tin if you practice as their limits to time & heat exposure. Tiny soldering stations can run from $70 - $890+. PC boards are fiberglass and coated green after testing. An exacto-knife can scrape the green off but only enough for the repair. Remove suspicious caps to test even when board is disconnected. This gives a true value that may change if warmed. Hold with an alligator clamp from a battery charger. Just the side, then test as needed. You can order from digi-key and others but pay $0.89 cents for 10, while TV shop down the hill wants $5.99 for one and can be rude! Either way, good basic video and always use a good visual, HF spot lights with magnetic base cost $30 and recharged by USB but become invaluable as you fix other things around the house. Remember, if they don’t find you handsome, hopefully they find you handy!
I have a control board w10916483 from a washer MVWX655DW1. Fault F1 E2 just like yours. Position J1 is in question, tilted like yours and scorched on the bottom. The problem is I don't know what to replace it with. It was an unmarked black (capacitor?) About 1/4" diameter and about 1/2" high. Before I got a picture my son ripped the cover off to expose copper windings. Help me find what replaces it. Thank you!!!
What problem it was giving you that it lead you to this step? Mine runs for 10 seconds and then trips. I noticed the power cord gets hot too. Any idea?
My ovens 'bake' mode wasn't working, same situation - $2 relay on Ebay. Took out board, replaced, worked great! People are just too lazy, ignorant and/or rich to bother with this stuff. They just throw it away and replace. One of the reasons why shit is so damn expensive!
I have kenmore 500 series and maytag centennial,they both same problem,when rinse stop ang rinse light flashing? What will cause of that,do you think I need control board,shift actuator,thank you in advance,,Needs help pls...
Cheap Chinese electrolytic capacitors have been failing in all sorts of consumer electronics, from LCD monitors for computers, to flat screen TVs, to washing machine control boards. All to save fractions of a penny/cap. Big bucks when you are talking about large product runs, but it's the end user stuck with a big repair bill.
Hey brother; got a Whirlpool model wtw4815e1 that stops mid wash and holds water. Checked codes and had F1E2 - (motor control fault) Indicates a fault of the motor control section of the main control and F7E6 - (motor fault) Indicates an open clockwise or counterclockwise circuit of the motor. Cleared codes and ran auto diagnostics and it passed twice. Tried washing clothes but stopped again and threw F1E2 Motor control fault but not the F7E6 Motor fault. Cleared washer and codes and ran self test again and passed with no codes again. Why does it pass empty self tests but fail with clothes and what should i check?? Any help is greatly appreciated brother!
Guys, i chaged the outlet from my dryer to normal outlet so i could conect my washer but i think i ruined it cause i herd something pop an now it only works on the fast wash cycle but not the normal settings what do you guys recommend
I’m having the exact same issue but my board seems to be fine. Nothing popping out at me. Think I should replace the capacitors if they look good? Washer will not go into diagnostic mode which is pissing me off!
th-cam.com/video/yXKt8bNO7W4/w-d-xo.html and then once you unplug everything from it, the plastic cage around it slides out and then you can use a flat-head screwdriver to pry all the side tabs.
Has any found the fix for user interface board failures on Maytag Bravo's or Whirlpool Cabrio type washers? Some have mentioned scrubbing contacts with rubbing alcohol but that didn't work for me. I was trying to find out what components to check on that board.
I got a free cherio. They suck to wash. Main thing I think is over filling with water so it doesn't work. It has built in pressure sensor. Mines over filing. I checked tube and that's good...
I got a red light blinking on mine and it will not do a balance run like normal or start at all. Lid will not lock and all is new for that. I got a red blinking light and a click in the control board like a relay is heating up or points are opening when the red light is blinking. No run at all.
Ebay, jameco, mouser, digikey, newark, arrow, all carry them. If not 6.3v, keep the 1000uF and bump it up to 16v. The 1000uF is imperative, with timing, discharge, etc. The voltage can be increased to handle higher (pressure). Like having a fire hose with the same diameter opening vs a cheap garden hose.
Does anyone know if you have the correct tool to test the microfarads on the caps. Does it matter if its installed or do you have to take it out, such as when testing continuity you have to remove one wire.
Thanks for watching! My washer had issues with the drain and spin cycles. Putting in the diagnostic mode yielded multiple codes, including one for the control board. After some research, I found it was recommended to replace the entire control board. Being one to not just replace entire components, I figured I'd see if I could repair first. In the process I surprisingly found a common fault with that cheap capacitor!
Main issue was that it would get stuck on the drain and spin cycle everytime. Checked for codes and came up with multiple ones including the control board. I located and replaced the blown capacitor and haven't had issues since.
Soldering iron is what melts the wire together. Soldering wire is the extra wire you may need to get also to melt the points. All can be found for cheap on amazon.
BRAVO series is all potted in electronics, none of it can be seen. Bravo is notorious for corrosion in the control panel from moisture, and other issues. 2020 Feb
It would work fine until the spin cycle. When it got to that part it wouldn't do anything. After 30mins of sitting doing nothing it would say done and the door would unlock but cloths would be soaked. I put the washer into the diagnostic mode and it kicked back multiple codes, with one of them being for the control board. Pulled the board and viola, found the toasted capacitor.
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You're a really intelligent guy. I work in HVAC (appliance) service and although you were not able to read capacitance, you did everything really well in diagnosing a bulged/burnt capacitor. Thanks for helping so many people out. Blessings to you & yours!
Thank you for the kind words friend!
This is exactly what my issue was. I searched forever and tried everything until I came across this video. I tried to replace the capacitor but I fried the board. I ordered a new control unit for $150 and it is working perfectly. A tech would have easily charged me $800 for pats and labour. Thank you Sir!
What was your washer NOT doing ? That you had to fix
Where did U get the PCB, & was it new or refurb?
Just want to thank you for your video! We just fixed our washing machine for $0.85! We were quoted over $400.00 for a new board and because of your video we made an attempt to fix ours on our own and it works perfectly!
I CANNOT thank you enough for this!!! I had an appliance guy scheduled to come out and I found this video the day before. I cancelled the appointment, pulled the board, saw the EXACT bloated capacitor, replaced it, and IT WORKS. You saved me hundreds!!
oh Weakest of Weeks, you made my week. Low and behold, my husband took out the control board and sure enough, that little sucker was popped. The whole cost to fix my Whirlpool Cabrio was a whopping .99 cents. Thank you for saving us a few hundred bucks!
Just a note, when replacing "any" bad Electrolytic type capacitor like the one you are replacing, orientation polarity of these devices matters and is indicated on the side of the capacitor by the white stripe with the negative symbol over that pin , installing one backwards will usually do ugly things to the capacitor and the circuit its used in so just use care to reflect the polarity of the original you are replacing.
Allrock123 Good info, thank you👍
thanks for the helpful info, something most people wouldn't think of.
Yes, that is very important to get the capacitor in the right polarity. People should definitely take note of the orientation of any blown capacitor before unsoldering it.
I replaced all mechanical parts to stop the banging and the uL code, but no success. So now it's time to check and fix Electronic Control board. Looking for the 100uF capacitor, I need to specify the accompanying volts. Does anyone know the volts specified for this capacitor?. Thanks
@@gerrafj3 I know this is a year late but on mine it is a 1000uf 6.3v cap
Here's a... "pro tip" ? Might not be as big of deal in this instance, except for taking photos of the board to remember how the capacitor was oriented _(as they do have a "positive" and negative post)._ But always take pictures before disassembling ANYTHING. With smartphones these days, can't take too many pictures. Makes it so much easier to reassemble and if nothing else just gives you something to "double check" against. Also gives you a "story line" of your disassembly and makes it easier to put back together in reverse order without forgetting something.
FWIW, size does matter here. Kind of. You'll notice that the blown cap (C1) is rated the same as the one just next to it (C180) but they're different sizes and color (on my board at least). That's because the lager C1 cap has a higher ripple current tolerance ... although apparently not high enough to prevent it from pooping itself. If you just have capacitors lying around then use what you have but if you're ordering them online you might as well make sure you get ones that can handle higher (>=1500) ripple currents. I had the same symptoms with the same blown cap and just ordered a United Chemi-Con EKZN100ELL102MJC5S off of Mouser which matches the existing size but can handle slightly higher ripple currents (1700) and voltage (10v). Hopefully that should help it outlast some other part.
This also works for Maytag Bravos belt drive washers!!! It is the exact same circuit board, even has Whirlpool printed on it. Just spent the better part of a day going through the service manual and doing all the diagnostic tests. I narrowed it down to the main control board and was surprised at the cost of the part. I came to TH-cam to see if anyone had similar issues, and sure enough, BAM, here is your video. Looked at the capacitor on mine, and it looked sort of ok, like yours did. Removed it and replaced it with a spare I had on hand of a similar value and Presto!!! Back in business. Thank you for your video. Just in case anyone was wondering what the symptoms were on my machine, when you closed the lid and pressed the start button, the lid would lock, and when it went to spin the drum to see how much weight was in it, it would just make a loud hum. It wouldn't stop, even when you pressed the power button. The only way to make the humming stop was to unplug it from the wall. At first I thought the start capacitor was bad on the drive motor, but it tested ok. Occasionally, it would make it past this step and actually wash a load of clothes. My wife was furious when it took her four or five tries to get a load washed. Now maybe she will be able to wash in peace. LOL. Thanks again!
Wow! guys!!you guys are awesome i just looked at mine and mine is us actually blown out with like black stuff on it. Unlike you guys i dont have capacitors laying around
Can't thank you enough for this video! Mine had the same issue. Searched all over locally and couldn't find any stores with the right capacitor, but hit up a CB radio repair shop and they replaced it for $15. I've never replaced a capacitor and had none of the equipment, so it was a bargain. Washing machine works like a charm now.
Really? My washing machine ain't spinning 😢
Thank you very much. I am glad I saw your video. I opened up my washer control board and surely enough, the Jamicon brand 1,000 uF 6.3V capacitor is swollen/popped up. I could not find the exact match in Amazon. The 1,000 uF 6.3V that sustains heat up to 105 degree C made by Panasonic sells at eBay 10 pcs for $6.50. I will buy them and try to replace it.
Update: I received the 10 pcs capacitors and replaced the bad one. My washer works now. One advice to you all, when you remove the burned out capacitor, use a fine point soldering iron on the two legs and a tweezers to hold capacitor at the bottom on the other side. The capacitor does get very hot. As the solder melts, pull the capacitor out with tweezers. Then, use a needle to drill the two holes left by the prongs of the capacitor, so the new one will be easier to put in.
My Mom had a Crosley washer _(which is made by Whirlpool),_ bought around 2015 and it has the identical board as what you showed. Started having problems a couple years after purchased, but now it will fill but then just blink the "fill/sensing" light. Never tries to move the motor nothing. But I can "cancel" the cycle and it will drain.
Running diagnostics _(which I didn't even know you could do on these type washers until the other day)_ it gave me a code of F15, which apparently for a Crosley is a "bad board".
I already bought another washer for my Mom about 6 months ago. But I took this washer over to my shop where it has sat until now as I have been too busy to look at it. But I figured I would see what the problem was and what it would take to fix it. I found the boards, don't want to put that much money into it. So I thought I would look up about repairing it. Found your video, and it doesn't surprise me at all that the most likely culprit is a capacitor. I've changed capacitors on other electronics before, I honestly think they use these as a "planned failure" point as most people would throw out the washer and buy a new one.
In any case, Thanks for the Great Video! I'm going to remove the board today and take a look at it. I'm betting this is my problem. I might even have the right capacitor on hand 🙂
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UPDATE: It wasn't the capacitors or the board. They looked perfect, and in the end found the board worked perfectly too. I ended up finding out "more correct" info on the diagnostic codes. One of the possibilities was that somewhere in the wiring harness a connection wasn't making good contact, was corroded, or a broken wire.
So I ended up unplugging every connection on every part of the washer, looking at the connection for corrosion, broken contact, etc. Went through one at a time and plugged each one back in after inspection. Tried the washer again, it went straight through a cycle without issue🙄 So I went through every connection again and applied some electrical anti corrosion compound that I had purchased from an electrical supply store _(I always keep this stuff on hand, great for all electrical and battery connections)._ I plugged each connection back in. Put the washer back together. And ran it through multiple cycles without a problem.
So that fixed it. I will state that I never once saw any corrosion, but somewhere a connection just wasn't making good enough contact. So must have been just enough on the metal surfaces that when I unplugged and re-plugged the connection back together, it made contact again. So it's definitely worth checking if you can't seem to find a solution or just want to eliminate the possibility. And it doesn't actually cost anything but some time and work.
Now I got an extra working washer sitting in my shop... As I also just cleaned and repaired a 22+ years old Kenmore washer/dryer stack unit that had an issue with not shutting off the water. So it had been sitting for a few years now, but was able to replace a few parts and it works perfectly too. I use it mostly for work clothes and rags. And to be honest, this 20+ year old washer is MUCH Better than any "modern smart washer" that is supposedly "smarter" than the person washing the clothes... yeah the one's that won't let you stop it and turn back the dial for a longer wash time, or when you want them to soak longer, or you want to run through another rinse cycle or etc.... OR when you "paused" it for a few seconds to long and it empties all the water out for no reason... 🙄🙄 In any case, thats why I put some money into repairing our old washer/dryer stack unit. I kinda hate the new-er washers.
I got an F1 E2 error code on my Bravos washer and came across this video just trying to find out how to use a voltmeter for the next step. I took the circuit-board out to see if I had the same blown capacitor as you did and... yup.
Thanks for taking the time to upload this. Saved us a lot of money and helped us feel more capable.
Ive had so many bad capacitors between old computers and ancient electronics, that bulged cap stuck out right from the beginning. Good tutorial, caps are easy to fix and a pretty common problem with tons of electronics.
Another thank you from a satisfied viewer. My friend's washer seemed dead, sensing light would come on steady, or just flash, if you held cancel for 3 sec. No other clicks or action, wouldn't go into diagnostic mode. She's on a very tight budget right now, so I said I'd take a look. After trying the tech manual, checking the forums and other videos, it seemed almost certain it was the control board. Luckily, I also stumbled across your video.
I pulled the board out and inspected the caps. Three looked suspicious: The two tall 22μF 250V caps a little north of that transformer, and one 220μF 25V cap at the northwest corner of the transformer. I couldn't find a battery for my ESR, so I just replaced all three. Even if they weren't all bad, the fix cost me $2 and some time.
Powered up fine, back making clean clothes out of dirty ones. Saved her $60 for a repair visit and at least $150 for a replacement board (and I've seen them listed as high as $250, no telling what an appliance repair shop would have charged).
Glad my video helped!
Hello Russel - Haven't pulled the board yet andwant to order capacitors in advance. I just want to confirm the voltage - two 22uF 250V and the 220uF 25V. Is this correct?
I was having issues with my Maytag... did some TH-cam research, replaced the shift actuator, same thing... until I found this... gave it a try, the exact same capacitor was kinda blown on mine (and the one beside it) so I replaced them both. Good as new so far!!! Thank you very much!!!!!
Hello there, do you know what is your control board part number ? Or the washer model number? Thanks In advance
I actually had a refurbished board in my cart when I found this video. My board had 2 puffed capacitors on it, the same one you had and the one just above it. I had some 25v 1000 caps here my friend soldered in for me and now the washer runs perfect. Thanks for posting this video. From the comments I read it looks like you helped many people.
Thank you for the feedback! When I posted this video I was hoping to help others save money. I'm very glad the fix has worked for many other folks!!
I just saved $371 dollars by watching this video. Take that Geico.
That made me lol
This comment needs more likes 😂
8 minutes and 42 seconds can save $371.00 or more in appliance insurance 😂
Have a Whirlpool Cabrio and had the same problem. Replaced the same blown capacitor and it worked. Thanks for taking the time to make and share this video.
What I don't get is how you're not into this stuff but had a CAPACITOR the RIGHT SIZE just laying around along with a soldering iron. Lol!
Thank you.
With this easy explanation I was able to repair my dryer by myself! THANK YOU
Thanks for posting this video I just fixed my washer! Found the capacitors at an old school electronics store about 20 miles from my house, 5 for $6. I had a bit of trouble taking the bad capacitor off the board but I hadn't soldered anything in years.
Thank you so much for this video. Turns out the same capacitor was problematic on my Whirlpool Cabrio -- top was bloated and bottom was popped out, with just a bit of char on the board. Replacing the capacitor was an easy, inexpensive fix with the help of a friend who solders. Yay!
Awesome! Glad the vid helped and you got your Whirlpool fixed!
Ideally you want an ESR meter for testing capacitors. When electrolytic capacitors get old they go high resistance.
Be sure to get a capacitor with the name rating (uF) and at LEAST the voltage on the side of the cap. Generally you'd want a direct replacement since the physical size of the cap may be different with higher voltage, but it IS safe to replace a cap with a higher voltage replacement. The voltage is the MAX voltage the cap can handle.
Great info. Thank you for sharing!
One thing to keep in mind, when checking a capacitor in circuit, that can throw the readings off a bit at times.
Ended up having to do the same fix on my Kenmore washer which stopped engaging the spin cycle. Caps were bulging. Replaced the three small caps with same uF rating but 25V parts (left the large filter ones since they usually don't fail) and my washer works like charm again :)
These electrolytic capacitors are what we call in the electronics world the cause of “planned obsolescence”. I’ve seen this same thing in garage door openers, home computer printers, car transmission computers. Yeah, they start to short out internally and the electrolyte fluid can leak out through the bottom into the board. They are often used in a circuit to filter out line noise, or to smooth out voltage fluctuations. They also function like a very small storage battery as they can be charged up with voltage and the energy released, so be careful on the very large ones as they can produce a very bad shock! Or burn! They were used in the flash units of single use film cameras to power the flash. To test them correctly and accurately you need to remove them from the circuit they are in. Then apply your tester or meter. To create planned obsolescence the design engineers will often use a cap that has a lower voltage rating than the circuit, e.g. a 6 volt cap in a 12 volt circuit. It eventually fries the cap! And the green colored caps are notoriously inferior quality- Samsung?
Thank you for this video! Exact same capacitor blown on my Whirlpool Cabrio control board as yours, Radio Shack had the part I needed plus a soldering kit. The hardest part was melting the old solder to remove blown part. You saved me so much $$, plus I feel like a rock star!
I didn't know Radio Shack still existed anywhere.
I'm am pretty well versed in the fundamentals due to my passion for electricity. And I'd say you hit the nail right on the head here good work brother. Greetings from cold Albion, Maine my friend
Thanks friend!
Incredible! Was about to shoot holes in this thing, exactly same problem was showing error like a lid lock, but when replaced. Would not go in standby. Lid lock blinking and clicking sounds also could not enter manual test mode to check independently
Just ordered the board. I have a week so I am going to try this, thank you so much. I have no idea how to take it apart so this will be an adventure. If anyone has a link that starts at the beginning, taking the washer apart could you please post it? Thank you for this tidbit I am sure it will continue helping a lot of people!
I watched this video after I ordered the part 😅 Thank you for sharing this video!!
My clockwork washer has been going strong for 40 years with a $5 repair on the agitator cams. Now you're lucky to get five years out of a $500 washer bc a 50¢ capacitor blows. It's not a bug, it's a feature.
I went home, pulled the board, exact same capacitor was roached on mine.
Best technician video ive seen so far.! Perfect explenation
We have a cabrio washer thats throwing the same error code. I'm going to look at the circuit board this weekend which is almost $300 to replace. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video. The exact same capacitor went out on our board on our Cabrio washer. I've never really soldered, but together my husband and I replaced the bad part. Thank you, thank you!
I have this washer: MHW5500FW1 and it beeps and flashes like it's a rave. Occasionally it will settle on a cycle and we can actually use it. It gives the code for the door lock, which is weird because it does the same thing with the door open or closed. I thought I'd look at the control board for it based on your video, but it's such a different layout.
Thanks W of W ! I've got the same problem,where the keypad is unresponsive,lid sw. tests good, and there's power to all points on control board. The 2200 uF 10V cap is bulged and a burnt haze around the bottom. Today I'll hunt down a supplier locally or may have to order one. I'll update after replacing.
@Weakest of Weeks -- I have an Amana (Whirlpool brand) Washer. Check this, I can't get it to turn on. I pulled the control board to check for any blown capacitors, but they're all fine. Checked the tops, the bottoms, none are bloated, no leakage, and they look good. I checked the ON button (it clicks when you press it) and it works fine. All the soldering points on the board look fine. Power outlet works fine, just can't seem to get the washer to turn on. Thoughts? Bought the washer new for $400, found a used control board on ebay for $120. Cancelled the order when I saw your video, thanks for making it.
It's been while since I've posted this video but my Whirlpool Cabrio washer is still going strong after replacing just the capacitor! Since some had questions getting access to the control board, here is a video I created to show that. Please like, share and sub! th-cam.com/video/7cRj2XBCrsg/w-d-xo.html
Is your washing machine still working?
I got a free Amana washer and someone tried to bypass the lid lock and fried the board. These electronic controlled washers are not like grandmas used to be. Inspected the board and found an exploded triac and a burned R050 resistor. Replaced both but still no go. Found this video and looked really good at the caps with a magnifying glass and sure enough the same one as yours was slightly bulged and had dried electrolyte around the edges. I ordered all the capacitors 2 of each in case I fluk a few up and waiting on delivery. Thanks for sharing this.
Did it work?
Great video! The exact capacitor failed on my control board, and I found it thanks to your video.
For what it’s worth, don’t force the leads out when removing. Mine were bent and I guess I pulled too much on the resistor and the sleeve came out with the resistor. I can’t find anything about this sleeve anywhere. Trying to get it off the resistor now so I can stick it back in the circuit board
Great video
This was exactly the problem that I had. I changed the cap and now my machine works. Thank You
Great video! Unfortunately, I don't think that's my issue, but I will be saving this video for future reference. Thanks!
Thanks for the video, I just thought I would pass on a bit of information for you and or anyone who’s watching
If you don’t want to read all of this rambling, here’s the quick summary-
Most modern meters measure capacitance, Even $15 ones
However capacitance reading doesn’t have all the information you need to determine a bad capacitor!!!
An ESR meter will give you a better idea if the capacitor is bad, and they can be purchased for as cheaply as $6!!!
If you want to buy an inexpensive meter that does it all… I like the ANENG V8 for $35 or the ANENG AN8008 at $17
Buy one of those multi meters and a $6 LCR-t4 ESR meter… And you can do it all. It really is a golden age of technology!!!
PS....TH-cam is your friend
OK if you want to read further… Here goes
90% (or more) of modern multimeters can test capacitance value. Your particular meter doesn’t, however The cheapest and best meters made today will measure everything from AC and DC voltage, capacitance, resistance, diode’s, and many other things. I have a nice (but humble and small) electronics lab full of professional equipment. Most of it I have repaired myself, Because it would be ungodly expensive to purchase any of it new.
I have several $UPER nice high-end meters… But the ones I use most are modern enexpensive meters.
Sure... if I need to do something precise I flip on the HP 34401a benchtop meter, or one of his siblings.
But 99% of the time I’m using an inexpensive meter.
My favorite inexpensive meter at the moment is the Aneng v8. I got it for $30 a few months ago, put it through its paces, and it has everything under the sun. It does everything just as accurately as meters that cost me over $1000!. It’s been checked against professional calibration equipment and other certified calibration sources in my lab.
It may not last 40 years, it might drift over time, but in my experience the main reason professionals buy expensive meters like flukes and HPs over something such as the nice modern inexpensive meters… Is for reliability. So if you’re working with high voltage on a daily basis as a career, and your and other people safety depends on it, then go spend $500 on a meter. But the modern inexpensive meters are incredible feats of engineering, and we are living in a golden age of test gear.
So if you’re interested in electronics, or just like to be able to diagnose and repair anything from now until you die… Buy a decent inexpensive meter, no reason you should spend over $50. I’ve tested dozens over the last few years and the aneng v8 is really amazing. I put all of the meters I test through some real rough conditions, abusive voltages, and destructive testing. I examine them inside and out, and really give them a hard time. So if I’m recommending this meter… It’s not just because it’s pretty. Another large difference in super expensive meters and the cheaper stuff… Is quality control. Modern manufacturing and quality control is incredible… Even in the cheapest Chinese factories. Sure people bash stuff all of the time… But you don’t realize that 90% of the electronics you use on a daily basis, from the airbag sensor in your car, The marvels of technology in your cell phone… Hell even everything floating in outer space, and everything you can and can’t see… 90% of it was made in a Chinese factory. So yes some of these cheaper modern meters might be duds. But it is rarer and rarer..... and I hate to break it to you but most of the highly expensive meters sold by American companies to professional laboratories… They’re made in Chinese factories too.
So you’ve got a good meter… Now get an lcr meter. I won’t go into the details of what this does but it gives measurements that you absolutely have to have doing most repairs. If you have an LCR meter and a multimeter… Along with a decent soldering iron… You’ll be able to diagnose and repair a lot of things from now until the time you die. Not to mention you might get interested in this stuff and take it up as more of a tinkering hobby. It’s a lot of money to be made also… Repairing washing machine boards and such.
The cheapest LCR meter is the one I mentioned before.... the lcr-t4. Which is six dollars from Banggood. I’ve had a dozen of them since they started cranking them out five or so years ago. I’ve killed a few by mistake but at that price it didn’t bother me. If you can spare the $20… I highly suggest getting an LCR-TC1. It’s a LCR/ESR meter With color graphical display, built-in rechargeable battery, and will do a lot more than the cheaper ESR meter. It’s an amazing piece of technology to say the least.
So with a $20 LCR-TC1 and a $30 ANENG V8… You can do almost anything. If you don’t have a soldering iron I highly suggest purchasing a KSGER T12 soldering station. At the very least just get some type of T 12 soldering station. Several brands make them starting at around $25. But the KSGER has way better quality control, better components, better user interface, and has more safety features and a better power supply. If you buy the nicer soldering station, the nicer LCR meter, and the nicer multimeter you’re still just under $100. With that equipment, patients, TH-cam videos, and the knowledge that you can gain from tinkering… You can repair almost anything.
Like I said… Most of my lab equipment was really cheap because it was broken or untested, and I had to go through the trouble in time to repair it myself and havehave it calibrated. But if I had to go out and buy all of that stuff (even on the used market) in working order it would be well over $20,000.
So when I’m recommending this inexpensive equipment… Just know that I know what good equipment looks like and how do use it. And yes of course the super expensive stuff is better… But with a little patience and learning you won’t be able to tell the difference unless you get a job at NASA or something
Hope this helps someone.
Hull Guitars USA Does the LCR-TC1 only go up to 100 microfarads or is that a mistake in the specs I read?
Thanks for all the info
Thank you brotha! My maytag had the same capacitor issue, changed it out and everything is back to normal...Great Video!
Can you please tell me what kind issues that you were having with your washing machine before you diagnosed the problem???
My washer isn't spinning the water out of clothes. The repair guy said it was the control board needing to be replaced and perhaps the shifter as well. I'm wondering if the capacitors being ruined will cause the washer to completely not work? Probably it's not the capacitor for my spinning issue right? Because the machine still does function in other ways.
What was your washer doing that needed repair? Thanks!
We have a Whirlpool Cabrio Platinum washer that we bought used 2 years ago and we just got a plain "F" error code. I unplugged the machine from the wall for about 5 minutes then plugged back in and pushed the power and pause button simultaneously until it reset itself, started another cycle and it works for about 10 minutes and throws the F code again. It's done this 3 times tonight and the F code points to a bad control board although I don't know if it would be this capacitor or if the F code by itself indicates something different. Guess I'll take the board out and check it over.
Thanks for the video.
I removed our control board and ours is slightly different. Ours is a Cabrio Platinum and I believe it was made around 2011 give or take. This control board looks a bit different, it doesn't appear to have the capacitor that went bad on yours unless they put it in a different spot, this one does however appear to have the other two side by side similar to yours. I don't see any black spots under one of those two but it feels like the top is more flush than the other one which dips down in the middle slightly. I think I'm going to go ahead and find a matching capacitor and replace it and see what happens and if that doesn't work I'll probably just order a used one off of Ebay for around $50 to $70.
thanks for taking the time to make this I have my board out now I'll check for this issue in the morning that would be pretty cool if I found a blown capacitor
Nice vidjeo; that I wish I'd seen last week . . . the best fix I found for our Maytag #MHWE400WR01 . . .
Was to buy an older whirlpool direct drive with no electronic boards.
A refurbished one will go TEN to FIFTEEN years with no issues!
The new washers are junk ..i got rid of my direct drive ....and am i sorry..wife hates me again..
Excellent troubleshooting, you rock froggy
Were u able to measure input and output voltages of the board? It's AC in, DC out?
Mine's a Frigidaire gallery front loader, but I bet the same thing applies. I'm going to take out the control panel and see if I can identify a problem. Thanks for an informative video.
You're welcome thank you for watching! Hopefully you get yours back up and running!
@jbergrr did it work?
Why are capacitors always failing in laptops to washing machines? I fixed vehicles at dealerships but learning don’t stop there. I have a Fluke 87-5 which does have capacitor reading and I don’t know many will spend $500 or more, but ask, research. Capacitors store energy for short periods of time as the (+ / -) symbol means it is electrolytic so sensitive to positioning or polarity. They operate on circuit board with 3 volts, 5 volts, 12 volts of more. This is regulated voltage to that part and varies. Caps are connected to resistors of fixed value so the charge or discharge with a math RXC= time. Worried, simply get a pocket flat blade or wire, touch both wires and the are discharge. A good visual with good light and magnification will help, but normal the tops do pop or bulge and not the bottom. Oh well, yours may vary. Photos taken before disassemble always helps get things right. Always replace a capacitor with same or higher voltage, but stay close, not under the “Micro-Farrad” rating. Soldering takes practice but a copper braid is sold to wick up liquid solder to keep the pads or holes clean. Apply a little flux for electronics to add solder to help transfer heat. Solder melts between 410 degrees F to 520 degrees F as silver content, ratios change as they do away with lead, but once liquid, wick up loose solder. Tiny parts result in tiny connections, so be clean, do not bridge solder across two terminals when photos show “No” connection. You can pre-tin if you practice as their limits to time & heat exposure. Tiny soldering stations can run from $70 - $890+. PC boards are fiberglass and coated green after testing. An exacto-knife can scrape the green off but only enough for the repair. Remove suspicious caps to test even when board is disconnected. This gives a true value that may change if warmed. Hold with an alligator clamp from a battery charger. Just the side, then test as needed. You can order from digi-key and others but pay $0.89 cents for 10, while TV shop down the hill wants $5.99 for one and can be rude!
Either way, good basic video and always use a good visual, HF spot lights with magnetic base cost $30 and recharged by USB but become invaluable as you fix other things around the house.
Remember, if they don’t find you handsome, hopefully they find you handy!
Yep those capacitors are known to go bad. I usually replace all of them. You could practice your soldering some more lol
Just saw your video and learn something new you might have a career at tutorials👍
What’s the diff between display control board and a electric control board?
I have a control board w10916483 from a washer MVWX655DW1. Fault F1 E2 just like yours. Position J1 is in question, tilted like yours and scorched on the bottom. The problem is I don't know what to replace it with. It was an unmarked black (capacitor?) About 1/4" diameter and about 1/2" high. Before I got a picture my son ripped the cover off to expose copper windings. Help me find what replaces it. Thank you!!!
What problem it was giving you that it lead you to this step? Mine runs for 10 seconds and then trips. I noticed the power cord gets hot too. Any idea?
Great job! Thanks for the video. I have to now check to see if that’s the problem with mine.
My ovens 'bake' mode wasn't working, same situation - $2 relay on Ebay. Took out board, replaced, worked great! People are just too lazy, ignorant and/or rich to bother with this stuff. They just throw it away and replace. One of the reasons why shit is so damn expensive!
if works maybe the best video for beginers.bravo.
Question. What was the washer not doing? Not spinning or not draining???
Combination of both. Would throw faults while spinning after a short time and wouldn't drain.
Thank you for the video. I had the exact bad capacitor,replaced it and everything works fine.
I have kenmore 500 series and maytag centennial,they both same problem,when rinse stop ang rinse light flashing?
What will cause of that,do you think I need control board,shift actuator,thank you in advance,,Needs help pls...
Cheap Chinese electrolytic capacitors have been failing in all sorts of consumer electronics, from LCD monitors for computers, to flat screen TVs, to washing machine control boards. All to save fractions of a penny/cap. Big bucks when you are talking about large product runs, but it's the end user stuck with a big repair bill.
Hey brother; got a Whirlpool model wtw4815e1 that stops mid wash and holds water. Checked codes and had F1E2 - (motor control fault) Indicates a fault of the motor control section of the main control and F7E6 - (motor fault) Indicates an open clockwise or counterclockwise circuit of the motor.
Cleared codes and ran auto diagnostics and it passed twice. Tried washing clothes but stopped again and threw F1E2 Motor control fault but not the F7E6 Motor fault. Cleared washer and codes and ran self test again and passed with no codes again. Why does it pass empty self tests but fail with clothes and what should i check??
Any help is greatly appreciated brother!
Guys, i chaged the outlet from my dryer to normal outlet so i could conect my washer but i think i ruined it cause i herd something pop an now it only works on the fast wash cycle but not the normal settings what do you guys recommend
Way to go bro where to dig in and do the work you save me some money and time you rock
Kenmore elite washer not working the motherboard has a red light on the back side that is on solid?
everyone do yourself a favor and fast forward to 5:05
WoW: thanks. ordering the capacitor now, hopefully this fixes my Cabrio issues
I’m having the exact same issue but my board seems to be fine. Nothing popping out at me. Think I should replace the capacitors if they look good? Washer will not go into diagnostic mode which is pissing me off!
I feel your pain
How did you remove the control board from housing?
th-cam.com/video/yXKt8bNO7W4/w-d-xo.html
and then once you unplug everything from it, the plastic cage around it slides out and then you can use a flat-head screwdriver to pry all the side tabs.
Actually this method for the clips is probably way easier.
th-cam.com/video/QAHWv7r-jfA/w-d-xo.html
This method to relieve the clips is probably much easier:
th-cam.com/video/QAHWv7r-jfA/w-d-xo.html
Has any found the fix for user interface board failures on Maytag Bravo's or Whirlpool Cabrio type washers? Some have mentioned scrubbing contacts with rubbing alcohol but that didn't work for me. I was trying to find out what components to check on that board.
Thank you so much. Your video is so helpful. Same problem in my washer.
I got a free cherio. They suck to wash. Main thing I think is over filling with water so it doesn't work. It has built in pressure sensor. Mines over filing. I checked tube and that's good...
I got a red light blinking on mine and it will not do a balance run like normal or start at all. Lid will not lock and all is new for that. I got a red blinking light and a click in the control board like a relay is heating up or points are opening when the red light is blinking. No run at all.
Genius!! I’m going to check my now! Thank you
Any body can please tell me where i can buy the capacitor.
Ebay, jameco, mouser, digikey, newark, arrow, all carry them. If not 6.3v, keep the 1000uF and bump it up to 16v. The 1000uF is imperative, with timing, discharge, etc. The voltage can be increased to handle higher (pressure). Like having a fire hose with the same diameter opening vs a cheap garden hose.
Hi anyone know of a place online I can order spare capacitors and other chips?
good job would this problem throw out other codes as well
Does anyone know if you have the correct tool to test the microfarads on the caps. Does it matter if its installed or do you have to take it out, such as when testing continuity you have to remove one wire.
Hello I have the same washer. But my washer won't drain the water out. Can you please help me out. What it may be.
Patrie Mordon that would be you’re drain pump it’s either clogged or it’s bad
awesome, great video. What problems was your washer having?
Thanks for watching! My washer had issues with the drain and spin cycles. Putting in the diagnostic mode yielded multiple codes, including one for the control board. After some research, I found it was recommended to replace the entire control board. Being one to not just replace entire components, I figured I'd see if I could repair first. In the process I surprisingly found a common fault with that cheap capacitor!
@@WeakestofWeeks How do you put it in diagnostic mode?
Same exact capacitor that failed in my whirlpool dishwasher
My whirlpool washing machine keep pausing and chipping out throughout the cycle
Did you have to recalibrate the washer?
Nope no recalibration needed.
What problem were you having with the machine?
Main issue was that it would get stuck on the drain and spin cycle everytime. Checked for codes and came up with multiple ones including the control board. I located and replaced the blown capacitor and haven't had issues since.
Bro your video helped so much. I have to replace the PM 102K. Where did you buy that part and where do you buy the part that melts things together?
Soldering iron is what melts the wire together. Soldering wire is the extra wire you may need to get also to melt the points. All can be found for cheap on amazon.
if you want to be careful you need to remove the capacitors and test
BRAVO series is all potted in electronics, none of it can be seen. Bravo is notorious for corrosion in the control panel from moisture, and other issues. 2020 Feb
Great job!
What symptom did that washer exhibit?
It would work fine until the spin cycle. When it got to that part it wouldn't do anything. After 30mins of sitting doing nothing it would say done and the door would unlock but cloths would be soaked. I put the washer into the diagnostic mode and it kicked back multiple codes, with one of them being for the control board. Pulled the board and viola, found the toasted capacitor.
where do you buy
Link in the description
I wish I could do mine like that but they filled it with rubber so no go