By FAR the best Kato wiring video I've found yet! Thank you for clearing up a lot of things for me. Just making the jump to Kato Unitrack and hope to make the jump to DCC this Christmas/early next year
Mike, this is the first time I have seen one of your videos. As a newcomer to n guage, yours was by far the best I have seen. It was clean, not wordy and easy to understand. Some of the other videos had me totally confused. Thanks!!
I may have to order a few of those powered jointer cables. I have one of those little feeder track pieces like you show on my workbench loop but as you stated it requires a similar length section on the opposite side. Not a huge deal in this case but it you're needing to have very specific track routing and lengths it may become a problem.
Mike, you were correct about isolating the turnouts, I have Kato HO scale, I ran all my track like any other and yes I experienced the dreaded turnout short. I then proceeded to take your advice and install track isolators. Thanks for the good advice.
Mike as you know my N scale layouts have always been DC. each one of my blocks are long enough for a 18 car passenger train + 4 E unit Consist of loco's. That's at least 9 ft. I've never had any problem there either and some blocks are still even longer. Your right on the money with this Mike. Very informative video that should help a lot of people out.
Another great how to Mike, another tip for your viewers, you can also solder feeders directly to the bottom of the rails through the 1/8 3/16th notches right after the unijoner molded part of the track.
Mike, I'm amazed every time I see one of your videos how I fully understand what you're saying. That's amazing for me because I just got back into model railroading and most of what some other people are talking about just doesn't make any sense to me. I'm so happy that I have you to go to if I have a problem. God bless you!
@@N-Scale Mike I'm almost accumulated enough stuff to start on my layout. I'm taking your advice and I'm taking my time. Looking at your videos over and over again so that all this stuff starts to sink in so I will know what I'm doing once I start. I want to gather as much knowledge as I can. I know I'm going to make some mistakes, but I don't want to make so many that I get discouraged. I want it to be fun. So this way I won't say to myself...what did I get myself into. Anyway, I'm enjoying your videos a lot.
Hi Mike a great how too. I finally have my shed empty, now the task of insulating and lining it for the build. Oh yes and I have changed the shed I am using to a slightly larger one of 28x11, so it should keep me going until I get carried out in that dreaded wooden box. I loved your video as usual, just keep em coming.
Mike, I use the feeder track sections. To assure against the plug coming out, I fix it in place with a piece of electrical tape. As for distance or placement, I put a power lead before all turnouts on the mainline.
As long as you have the KATO EMBLEM on the feeder track facing out, as on the UNITRACK Instructions with feeder track, your wiring will have no problems.
If poss drill a hole big enough under the feeder track were you can put your finger through to push it back in if it comes lose or cable clip it close to the feeder under the base board to keep it secure great vid keep up the good work
Would really like to see a slow, detailed, closeup overview of your layout. Have done some t trax layouts for shows but now I’m doing my first long term home layout. Loved what little I saw in the background of your dcc unitrack video. Looking for great ideas. Thanks Steve
Hiya Mike, Great video, I'm new to model N-Gauge and model railways, I've just ordered my very first Kato Unitrack starter set. Bostin video, I'll be watching some others too.
When making a yard ladder or such, do not put insulators towards the next turnout ( only on the diverging route ) That way the first turnout feeds all the others. Mike
Hi Mike. I'm thinking of moving on from OO gauge DC and getting into n gauge and DCC and found your video regarding points extremely interesting. Other experts talk about "cutting wires....adding wires....switches to change frog polarity..." etc. So, just to double check, are you saying that all we need to do is provide isolators on all four 'downstream' rails and the job is done? Best wishes, Alan
Do you have a link to a video that shows a detail of your track setup? Do you have drawings of your plans? One of your 2018 videos showed you starting over with a lot of elevated track.
Hi Mike! Thanks for posting so many helpful videos. I'm starting to wire my layout and regarding the turnouts (Kato #6) why do you insulate the four rails leaving the turnout? My layout is not big so I have only one booster.
The thought behind Kato track and the concept behind all Kato stuff is in Japan houses are much small than in North America. There just is not the room for making dedicated layouts. The kits go on the floor and after playing is done it all gets picked back up. Its not intended for permanent mounting.
A great video Mike!I never thought of adding insulated rail joiners abs powefeeds yo Kato . I like to callit “ Kate-O” . Thanks uyiu should gdde a link to yuyrvhovby store abs the railroad joiners snd Rhode those rail joiner pier feeds, thanks and subscribed, George
I am trying to learn basic wiring beyond a simple oval. There is suggested plan whis a loop and a run around involving two #6 switches, a left and a right. I get a short when switching on to the run around track. I just watched the above video. I believe the problem comes from the switches going in the opposite direction which is what the diagram says. I have no experience yet with more than one feeder or the proper use of insulators. Can you help me understand these better?
And another question Mike: How would you wire the Kato 20-210 Double Crossover Point (Scissor Points)? Would you isolate each track at one end of the point?
I purchased the Bachmann N Scale Roaring Rails DCC Train Set and after a couple of years I decided to change back to DC powered track. Now using Kato with having 4 multi track layout with three crossovers. I also installed separate push button toggle switch, to power on/off to each track, so I can wait for a train to pass before crossing over with another train. I'm only using one Kato DC controller which powers the whole layout, running 4 DC trains with it and having alot of fun too :0) ... My Question: would it be easy to change that Roaring Rail GP40 DCC engine back to DC ? how would one change that specific DCC engine back to DC as it runs way too slow on a DC powered track, even when its the only train on the layout ... Thank you
Could you recommend a way to disassemble kato switch connectors to avoid having to drill a 1/2 inch hole into the foundation? I want to avoid too large a hole when threading the black/red wires underneath the foundation board. Thanks
Mike: I am following your "rule" of insulating the wye ends of Kato turnouts, but I'm getting confused when I have multiple turnouts in succession, as when I'm building my yard off my main line. It seems like I'll have some dead spots if I insulate all wye ends. Do you address this in any of your other videos? If I could attach a photo or diagram here, I could show you my situation. Jim
Great video but I'm still stumped. I'm creating a triple loop with turnouts in the center and all loops connected at some point. How do I insulate AND power turnouts that are hooked directly together (for yard layout and outer loop connecting to middle loop)??
Very informative. Can that Kato item you showed at 8:18 be daisy chained? The reason I ask is because I have two crossover tracks for an inner and outer oval. If I understand correctly each side of the crossover needs power originating from some point on that specific side. Thank you.
I don't understand what you mean by insulating the turn out tracks because while the black joiners are insulated, the rails would connect and possibly cause issues. Do you have a way to provent the track making a connection with say paint on insulation on the ends of the track? Or, can you get a short plastic rail as an insert?
I am building my first N scale layout using the unitrack. One of my ?s is, on wiring single cross over from Kato double track, , . your video shows a possible need for gap at the far end of a single switch, Are there any special attentions for the single crossover with gaping. .Also, cross over on a double track the switches came with one b/r feeder wire but the switch has two locations for switch control. I am guessing it doesn't matter where it is plugged in. My thoughts are once it is to switch one side the other needs to follow too and so they will both switch at one time.
If you're using the three-way splitter for the feeders, is there a way to temporarily separate the individual feeder joiner wires from the plug so they can get through the benchwork first before connecting to the splitter?
I'm getting back in to trains. N scale DCC Coffee Table size to start. Mini helix foam bed/base. Any train starter kits that can be recorded? Thanks. Nice presentation
Mike, a quick Kato turnout question: For example, if I have two left hand N scale Unitrack turnouts (#6, 20202) forming a crossover between two parallel tracks, would it be necessary or in any way advantageous to use insulated joiners between the two turnouts on the diverging route where they form the crossover?Or can I connect them as is and just feed from the single side as you suggested?Thanks!Frank
+dexterdog62 You can do it either way as they are power routed but if the inner and outer tracks are on DC and opposite directions and both are thrown you would get a short. I always make it a habit of insulating the turnouts on the away side and re-feeding beyond. Thanks , Mike
Mike, I am building a Kato HO layout, but, none the less, I enjoy your videos. I believe that the Kato N turnouts, as well as the Kato HO #6 turnouts are all non power routing turnouts. The Kato HO #4 turnouts that I am using are power routing, but can I prevent DCC problems with the track power if I always add a Terminal Unijoiner before and after each turnout?
N Scale #6 is power routed. Regardless of what you do DCC should function. As I had stated I always recommend feed into the single side of the turnout and insulate all 4 rails leaving and re-feed the section beyond. Mike
This is a slight apple and orange comparison. The wire joiners are good for people with permanent set ups. The small section feeder tracks are for people who are setting up on things like dining room tables where drilling holes is not really an option. Each has its use.
It applies to any 2 rail track, from T gauge to G gauge. If you are using 3-rail track (This applies to Märklin HO, Atlas/Gargraves/Scaletrax/Fastrac/Tubular 3-rail O, and any standard gauge), this does not apply
Hi Mike, I s there anyway to keep the kato proprietary white connector plugs ( track feeds and switches)without cutting them off and still use dcc with a track bus for the layout?
I'm brand new to N scale and will be installing KATO Unitrack for DCC eventually as I built a new N scale layout. Procedures were explained OK, but it would have been much more helpful so SHOW on a layout as you're installing the track, as well as EXPLAIN how it's done.
Hi Mike, How do you connect the kato terminal joiners to the bus wire under the layout ? Do you cut off-the white kato plugs and use Suit case connectors or other ideas thst you might have. Thank-you,George
Very good vid.I also insulated all outgoing tracks of the switches and it worked fine.Exception is the double crossover who needs feeders on all 4 joints.The terminal joiners are highly recommended.But i still wonder why the Kato US switches are different to the versions here in Europe.My switches have metalplates on the bottom and no possibility to change the power routing.
@@N-Scale So, just to clarify, is it YES, I SHOULD power all 4 sections of my double crossover on my Kato double Unitrack? I presume you are agreeing with the questioner.
Mike A person could use a Drop of Super Glue like Locktite Professional Zap a Drop up under the plug where it set's up against the Feeder Track then it wont come out.. Just a suggestion but using the feeders is excellent too..
Mike ,I e heard that Kato engines do not like anything over 12 volts abd thsy one should use a Kato pier pack or Sunil ISE to make sure yiu do it burn out those motors is gif true? George
Mike, I am using# 6 turnouts for a passing siding. I used 15 degrees 19 inch radius curves for the passing track but the spacing is still too wide next to the main line. Could you tell me which radius curve I need to get the spacing between the main and the siding more prototypically correct. Thanks
Mike Fifer I'm no good at geometry either. Didn't need it to be exactly to specs, just wanted it a little closer. I'm not a rivet counter. Just like to have fun with the hobby. Thanks for your reply Mike.
Good evening from the UK! Thanks for this video, its been really informative. I have a few questions I'd like to ask you. 1) By putting insulators on all the points, this must surely create a dead spot on the point with no power supply (for the direction the point is not set to) - Does this not cause you problems if running a locomotive across it in a different direction and the point incorrectly set for the running of that loco? 2) How would you insulate a KATO 20-230 Double track crossing and KATO 20210. Thank you! -Andrew
1) By putting insulators on all the points, this must surely create a dead spot on the point with no power supply (for the direction the point is not set to) - Does this not cause you problems if running a locomotive across it in a different direction and the point incorrectly set for the running of that loco? No The frog changes polarity with the switch and I mention I RE_FEED te track beyond the turnouts (if possible) . A yard ladder or other connected turnouts would not need insulation. 2) How would you insulate a KATO 20-230 Double track crossing and KATO 20210. They already are insulated in the center and only require power to the main side.
Hi Mike, I will be going to DCC within a month or two and I will start with a Digitrax Zephyr. My question is, after I run my buss wire around the track what do I do with the end of the wires? Do I just leave them hanging there, or do I reconnect them to the power source to make a continuous loop? Also, the yard turnouts scare me, say you have 4 turnouts in a row, do you leave the straight track un-insulated and only insulate the turnout track, I'm confused? Anyway, thanks again for another instructional video, you are helping me allot. Fred
Fred Cordini Fred , You can make a loop or you can dead end the bus. Either way is fine. When doing a yard ladder the power is normally fed to the first turnout and the it (in turn) feeds the rest of them in that ladder. I still normally insulate the curve the yard lead it's self is on and re-feed that track. Thanks , Mike
N Scale How To Channel Thanks for your help, Mike. Still a little confused on the yard, but I think I got it. Maybe, if you have the time, one of your schematic drawings would help. Thanks again, Fred
N Scale How To Channel Thank you so much Mike. I will draw out my idea and email it to you at the FHS address if that's okay. I appreciate your help. Fred
Hi Mike, very good videos. Love watching them and learning a lot. I have one question which I cannot find an answer to anywhere on the web. I'm going to set up my Kato Unitrack for DC to start off with. I bought a Backmann EZ Command. So, when I go to DCC I want to use my Kato Switch Controllers that I will have been using on DC(I'm not a genius when it comes to wiring). Do I need to do anything special to use these switches for dcc? I can't find an answer to this anywhere. Thanks
Thanks Mike, You don't know how relieved I am to hear this. I'll keep reading on this and try and learn some basic wiring. Thanks again Mike, you're a lot of help.
@@N-Scale thanks Mike you could do a whole video for guys like me on hooking up 24 -818 feeders-with solder or suit case connectors to the bus. As I my brain is like mush snd it comes to electrical issues. I wish lived close to your layout/ store as a visit is worth a 1000 words .
Hi Mike, great video but I'm having a problem with the N scale Kato double crossover on dcc. Whenever a train changes track it shorts out my controller. How do I wire the crossover to make it work? Thanks.
So I just want to make sure for I am putting together a layout, when adding another turnout to another turnout. I don’t have add insulators but add feeder wires for power and my dcc trains will run fine without the insulators?
Mike thinking of going to kato! I have NCE PH PRO-R Not sure how would do signals on kato without Katos signals ! Was thinking IR what would you suggest? Will prob use digitrax ds64 for the turnout control can I run signals thru that also that will turn when the switch is thrown like with a tortoise?
I have a question on the turnouts, what if I want to use the turnout controllers that kato offers, would I be able to hook them up to my turnouts, put all the controllers together then wire them to the dcc pack I'm using?
Just re watching your video and this question popped into my little pea brain. You run a buss wire the attach feeders, how do you do that, cut off the Kato plug or are there matching plugs coming off your buss line?
Hi Mike, an informative video on KATO Unitrack turnouts and to consistently feed track power to the entrance of the turnout and insulating track feeds to the output sections. While I use KATO HO Unitrack, issues are similar but its turnouts are the reverse. In your video you show a KATO #6 N Turnout, which is power-routed and has a powered metal frog. The KATO HO #4 turnout is of the identical design. Alternatively, the KATO N #4 and KATO HO #6 turnouts have a dead frog with selectable power/non-power routing. Hence the KATO HO #6 are DCC-Friendly as would be the KATO N #4 Mistakes do happen but in my HO layout, if a loco enters a #4 HO turnout which isn't switched properly, there is short and the DCC system is interrupted. (A short would also occur in a DC system) So in your KATO N Scale layout, can you avoid these short circuits when entering an N #6 turnout from the wrong direction (that hasn't been switched properly)? Is there any solution really?
@@N-Scale this is my exact problem. New to Kato DCC N Scale. I used two #6s for a reverse loop (with AR1 installed) before knowing that they will short if not thrown to the correct direction. Means I cant just let the trains run unsupervised. Researching mods to the #6 but I haven't found anything that tells me what to do in an easy to understand way. I don't want to redesign for #4s (as its the "rural" section) but may have to unless someone posts a how-to video on this.
@@N-Scale Thank you very much for your reply. I was thinking the size of piece of plywood - but door size will work. What do you recommend reading for starting out, landscaping, and electrical??? I plan to go with Kato N scale track Again thank you very much.
@@N-Scale sorry I was trying to say. Can do you put insulated rail joiners and feeder after on a double crossoveEr switch too? As you described in your video as yiu did on other kato switches ?thank you.
@@NHseacoast NO , The Dbl Xing is insulated right down the middle if folks refer to the instructions, and calls for feeds to all four tracks into it. Thanks , Mike
Hello, I am new to this hobby but have quite a bit of N gauge unitrack and just running DC. Are the #6 turnouts electrofrog or insulfrog ? Are the #4 turnouts electrofrog or insulfrog ? Which is best for dcc elctro or insul, is there any difference in wiring ? If I want to still operate the points with DPDT switch how can I do this with DCC ? Thank you.
+Simon Worger The #6 are all power routing and the #4's are selectable. I would only recommend #6's as they are way more reliable. You can use either for DCC . I insulate all four rails leaving a turnout and re-feed the sections beyond. Please look here. www.fiferhobby.com/html/how_to_make_kato_turnout_contr.html Thanks , Mike
I did this and did a double turn out. I isolated the second turnout and powered It. It did work accept if the switch isn't on the correct side leading it out, the loco stops and buzzes(short?). Any ideas? I mean I know the switch should be on the correct side. But If I for example forget not sure I want that happening to much. Or do I just live with it and not forget? hahaha
I am sorry but this discription makes no sense to me. I do not understand. Sounds like you have a feeder backwards somewhere. You will need to check ALL feeders. Mike
Hello there, what would be the procedure for tomix fine track is it the same? I will be using tomix fine track on my layout And also how about dcc chipping trains by Tomix, GreenMax, Bandai (Btrain shorty)
I'm just wondering... when given the choice of (N scale) track: Atlas (or MicroEngineering) Why would one choose the Kato track? I see at least one issue with this stuff... The grey plastic "ballast" it is fastened to would amplify the noise of rail to wheels.. Using Flex track and cork below dampens the track noise immensely.
Howey Brooks I assume you to mean to throw them? I used a 16 VAC charging transformer I got at a garage sale and the Kato DC converter before I went to the Digitrax DS64's. Thanks , Mike
Hi Mike. Very new to model railroading but I am well into my planning. So far I'm definitely going N scale and am looking at the Kato Unitrack particularly after seeing your series of videos and others. Another definite I have gone with is DCC and after watching this video I just had a question when it comes to DCC wiring when it comes to multiple turnouts for example in a shunting yard situation. In otherwords you had a set of unitrack turnouts linked together making up a yard. I'm specifically asking about the positions for the feeder wire joiners as supplied by Kato. I hope this makes sense.
+Ratel Mike In the case of feeders to a yard ladder you only need to feed the single track side of the first turnout then the direction that turnout is thrown dictates the direction of power. Once you get to a point where you have track leaving any of those turnouts I would insulate there and re-feed the track beyond. Thanks , Mike
Very simple and informative. This video is by far the easiest to follow for wiring a DCC layout!
Thanks , Mike
By FAR the best Kato wiring video I've found yet!
Thank you for clearing up a lot of things for me.
Just making the jump to Kato Unitrack and hope to make the jump to DCC this Christmas/early next year
Thanks Keegan , Mike
Mike, this is the first time I have seen one of your videos. As a newcomer to n guage, yours was by far the best I have seen. It was clean, not wordy and easy to understand. Some of the other videos had me totally confused. Thanks!!
Thanks , There are exceptions (such as Yard Ladders) but this is the easiest way to get the message across.
Mike
I may have to order a few of those powered jointer cables. I have one of those little feeder track pieces like you show on my workbench loop but as you stated it requires a similar length section on the opposite side. Not a huge deal in this case but it you're needing to have very specific track routing and lengths it may become a problem.
So True !!
Mike, you were correct about isolating the turnouts, I have Kato HO scale, I ran all my track like any other and yes I experienced the dreaded turnout short. I then proceeded to take your advice and install track isolators. Thanks for the good advice.
Glad to help Don.
Mike
Mike as you know my N scale layouts have always been DC. each one of my blocks are long enough for a 18 car passenger train + 4 E unit Consist of loco's. That's at least 9 ft. I've never had any problem there either and some blocks are still even longer. Your right on the money with this Mike. Very informative video that should help a lot of people out.
sdyoung Thanks Steve , it has always worked for us as well.
Mike
Great advice! Never gets old! Thanks
George
Thanks George. Mike
@@N-Scale Is there a switch on Kato switches for power routing?
@@NHseacoast Not on the #6's and I do not use #4's
Another great how to Mike, another tip for your viewers, you can also solder feeders directly to the bottom of the rails through the 1/8 3/16th notches right after the unijoner molded part of the track.
Peter CPRail8748 Thanks Peter, There are many ways to attach feeders if you Google it up.
Thanks Peter, Mike
Very informative for someone building a N-scale layout with Kato track and running DCC. Thank you.
Mike, I'm amazed every time I see one of your videos how I fully understand what you're saying. That's amazing for me because I just got back into model railroading and most of what some other people are talking about just doesn't make any sense to me. I'm so happy that I have you to go to if I have a problem. God bless you!
Thanks Mark , I guess it comes from my simple mind !!
LOL
@@N-Scale Mike I'm almost accumulated enough stuff to start on my layout. I'm taking your advice and I'm taking my time. Looking at your videos over and over again so
that all this stuff starts to sink in so I will know what I'm doing once I start. I want to gather as much knowledge as I can. I know I'm going to make some mistakes, but I
don't want to make so many that I get discouraged. I want it to be fun. So this way I won't say to myself...what did I get myself into. Anyway, I'm enjoying your videos a lot.
@@markgershman1563 I hope I help.
Mike
Hi Mike a great how too. I finally have my shed empty, now the task of insulating and lining it for the build. Oh yes and I have changed the shed I am using to a slightly larger one of 28x11, so it should keep me going until I get carried out in that dreaded wooden box. I loved your video as usual, just keep em coming.
Colin Mansell Thanks Collin , glad you are getting into the new shed.
Hope you are well.
Mike
Mike I thought you did a great job. I never thought of turnouts and feeders like this. Great video
Mike, I use the feeder track sections. To assure against the plug coming out, I fix it in place with a piece of electrical tape. As for distance or placement, I put a power lead before all turnouts on the mainline.
As long as you have the KATO EMBLEM on the feeder track facing out, as on the UNITRACK Instructions with feeder track, your wiring will have no problems.
If poss drill a hole big enough under the feeder track were you can put your finger through to push it back in if it comes lose or cable clip it close to the feeder under the base board to keep it secure great vid keep up the good work
Would really like to see a slow, detailed, closeup overview of your layout. Have done some t trax layouts for shows but now I’m doing my first long term home layout. Loved what little I saw in the background of your dcc unitrack video. Looking for great ideas.
Thanks
Steve
Thanks Steve take a look here. The layout has been torn out but I am building a new one.
www.fiferhobby.com/the-albuquerque-carnuel-tijeras-rr-actrr/
Hiya Mike, Great video, I'm new to model N-Gauge and model railways, I've just ordered my very first Kato Unitrack starter set. Bostin video, I'll be watching some others too.
+Gary Morris Thanks Gary , I hope you have fun. Did you order from us?
Mike
Really helpful for the turnouts. Thanks!
Would you show when you have two turnouts in a row? Thanks
When making a yard ladder or such, do not put insulators towards the next turnout ( only on the diverging route ) That way the first turnout feeds all the others.
Mike
@@N-ScaleThanks a lot Mike, that's really helpful for beginners like me
Hi Mike. I'm thinking of moving on from OO gauge DC and getting into n gauge and DCC and found your video regarding points extremely interesting. Other experts talk about "cutting wires....adding wires....switches to change frog polarity..." etc.
So, just to double check, are you saying that all we need to do is provide isolators on all four 'downstream' rails and the job is done? Best wishes, Alan
On Kato or any power routed turnouts Yes (for the most part).
Thank you. It's such a nice change to find someone who really knows what he's talking about.
Gotta love kato track. I have it in ho. I have feeders every 5ft or more too and no worries. Same with my marklin ho
Thanks for the helpful tips on alternate ways to wire track using joiner wire connectors and bus.
Thanks so much Stew, Mike
Do you have a link to a video that shows a detail of your track setup? Do you have drawings of your plans? One of your 2018 videos showed you starting over with a lot of elevated track.
Hi Mike! Thanks for posting so many helpful videos. I'm starting to wire my layout and regarding the turnouts (Kato #6) why do you insulate the four rails leaving the turnout? My layout is not big so I have only one booster.
It is simply the easiest way to explain to anyone how to wire a layout. There can be exceptions though.
Mike
The thought behind Kato track and the concept behind all Kato stuff is in Japan houses are much small than in North America. There just is not the room for making dedicated layouts. The kits go on the floor and after playing is done it all gets picked back up. Its not intended for permanent mounting.
The original idea is true but you are mistaken on the ability to make permanent layouts.
Thanks , Mike
Thank you so much. Every site or video alway said insulate turnouts none showed which part of the track to insulate
Thanks James , Mike
This video is awesome as I’m going to kato unitrack for my layout and saw this and your video on turnouts this helped
Thanks so much William , Mike
A great video Mike!I never thought of adding insulated rail joiners abs powefeeds yo Kato . I like to callit “ Kate-O” . Thanks uyiu should gdde a link to yuyrvhovby store abs the railroad joiners snd Rhode those rail joiner pier feeds, thanks and subscribed, George
Thanks George, Mike
I am trying to learn basic wiring beyond a simple oval. There is suggested plan whis a loop and a run around involving two #6 switches, a left and a right. I get a short when switching on to the run around track. I just watched the above video. I believe the problem comes from the switches going in the opposite direction which is what the diagram says. I have no experience yet with more than one feeder or the proper use of insulators. Can you help me understand these better?
You are correct. Simply put insulators on ALL 4 TRACKS leaving the turnout and re-feed beyond that.
And another question Mike: How would you wire the Kato 20-210 Double Crossover Point (Scissor Points)? Would you isolate each track at one end of the point?
They are ALREADY isolated right down the center.
Thanks , Mike
Brilliant, many thanks Mike.
Thank you very much. Just what I needed!
Thanks Thomas !!
This is such a great explanation - thank you ! You leave no detail out.
Thank You, I try to do my best.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
Mike, great video…I have a question though and that is: how to you handle a Crossover Switch for feeders and insulation?
All the Pre-Made Kato crossovers are insulated in the center so they only need to be fed INTO the turnout from the single track side !
I purchased the Bachmann N Scale Roaring Rails DCC Train Set and after a couple of years I decided to change back to DC powered track. Now using Kato with having 4 multi track layout with three crossovers. I also installed separate push button toggle switch, to power on/off to each track, so I can wait for a train to pass before crossing over with another train. I'm only using one Kato DC controller which powers the whole layout, running 4 DC trains with it and having alot of fun too :0) ... My Question: would it be easy to change that Roaring Rail GP40 DCC engine back to DC ? how would one change that specific DCC engine back to DC as it runs way too slow on a DC powered track, even when its the only train on the layout ... Thank you
It likely can be but I am totally unfamiliar with Bachmann's products.
Could you recommend a way to disassemble kato switch connectors to avoid having to drill a 1/2 inch hole into the foundation? I want to avoid too large a hole when threading the black/red wires underneath the foundation board. Thanks
Yes sir , I cut the wire about 3 inches back from the plug, put the wire through and twist and tape the wires back together.
Thanks , Mike
thank you...
No Problem at all.
Mike
You SUCCEED, Mike - hands down !
Thanks so much for the support.
Mike
Mike: I am following your "rule" of insulating the wye ends of Kato turnouts, but I'm getting confused when I have multiple turnouts in succession, as when I'm building my yard off my main line. It seems like I'll have some dead spots if I insulate all wye ends. Do you address this in any of your other videos? If I could attach a photo or diagram here, I could show you my situation. Jim
On any switches attached to other switches you would not use the insulators.
Mike
Great video but I'm still stumped. I'm creating a triple loop with turnouts in the center and all loops connected at some point. How do I insulate AND power turnouts that are hooked directly together (for yard layout and outer loop connecting to middle loop)??
You DO NOT need to insulate connected turnouts.
Mike
@@N-Scale Thanks so much. Enjoy your videos. I will keep watching and digging for more info so I hopefully don't blow something up
@@NitroStarGT You will be fine .
Mike
Very informative. Can that Kato item you showed at 8:18 be daisy chained? The reason I ask is because I have two crossover tracks for an inner and outer oval. If I understand correctly each side of the crossover needs power originating from some point on that specific side. Thank you.
Yes they can.
Mike
Mike, You're getting better and better narrating these videos. Next stop: Hollywood?
I don't understand what you mean by insulating the turn out tracks because while the black joiners are insulated, the rails would connect and possibly cause issues. Do you have a way to provent the track making a connection with say paint on insulation on the ends of the track? Or, can you get a short plastic rail as an insert?
Not sure why you do not understand , THE BLACK JOINERS DO INSULATE.
Very good video answered a lot of my questions
I am building my first N scale layout using the unitrack. One of my ?s is, on wiring single cross over from Kato double track, , . your video shows a possible need for gap at the far end of a single switch, Are there any special attentions for the single crossover with gaping. .Also, cross over on a double track the switches came with one b/r feeder wire but the switch has two locations for switch control. I am guessing it doesn't matter where it is plugged in. My thoughts are once it is to switch one side the other needs to follow too and so they will both switch at one time.
There are no insulators used on it and yes it is a single connection.
Thanks , Mike
If you're using the three-way splitter for the feeders, is there a way to temporarily separate the individual feeder joiner wires from the plug so they can get through the benchwork first before connecting to the splitter?
The only way is to cut and re-splice the wire or simply make a big enough hole and then cover it with masking tape.
Mike
I'm getting back in to trains. N scale DCC Coffee Table size to start. Mini helix foam bed/base. Any train starter kits that can be recorded? Thanks. Nice presentation
Thanks , I am not sure what you are doing exactly and or what you are asking. You can call us at 575-527-9293.
Thanks , Mike
hi Mike another great video full of info.. thanks for sharing.. vinny
bnsf6951 Thanks Vinny, Mike
Mike, a quick Kato turnout question: For example, if I have two left hand N scale Unitrack turnouts (#6, 20202) forming a crossover between two parallel tracks, would it be necessary or in any way advantageous to use insulated joiners between the two turnouts on the diverging route where they form the crossover?Or can I connect them as is and just feed from the single side as you suggested?Thanks!Frank
+dexterdog62 You can do it either way as they are power routed but if the inner and outer tracks are on DC and opposite directions and both are thrown you would get a short. I always make it a habit of insulating the turnouts on the away side and re-feeding beyond.
Thanks , Mike
Mike, I am building a Kato HO layout, but, none the less, I enjoy your videos. I believe that the Kato N turnouts, as well as the Kato HO #6 turnouts are all non power routing turnouts. The Kato HO #4 turnouts that I am using are power routing, but can I prevent DCC problems with the track power if I always add a Terminal Unijoiner before and after each turnout?
N Scale #6 is power routed.
Regardless of what you do DCC should function. As I had stated I always recommend feed into the single side of the turnout and insulate all 4 rails leaving and re-feed the section beyond.
Mike
This is a slight apple and orange comparison. The wire joiners are good for people with permanent set ups. The small section feeder tracks are for people who are setting up on things like dining room tables where drilling holes is not really an option. Each has its use.
We all understand that but this video is geared to home layouts that are permanent.
Thanks , Mike
Do you have a video of your club? I would love to see 10k feet of unitrack on a layout!
We do .
th-cam.com/channels/hVTR7HEkTuEHWlYw2fhpcw.html
Thanks, I’ll be sure to check that out.
Once again Mike very well done and informative. Just about to do that now.
Glen Williams Thanks Glen, Good to hear from you. I assume you are well?
Thanks , Mike
Yes all is well thanks Mike. Hope the same for you Robin, & Gavin
Glen Williams Thanks Glenn , we are also well.
We may come to the show in November.
Mike
May I assume that the same basic principles apply to HO scale?
Good tips.
It applies to any 2 rail track, from T gauge to G gauge. If you are using 3-rail track (This applies to Märklin HO, Atlas/Gargraves/Scaletrax/Fastrac/Tubular 3-rail O, and any standard gauge), this does not apply
@@Trainmaster909 Thanks for the kind reply.
The Shade Tree Fix-it Man I know I’m 5 years late on the answer, but it’s just in case someone else had the same question.
Hi Sir, how to connect 2 turnouts that form a crossing track between two parallel tracks. Thank you.
What do you use to attach the track to the base? Some sort of adhesive?
If I need to stick it down I use Hot Glue but I normally do not glue track down.
Mike
Hi Mike,
I s there anyway to keep the kato proprietary white connector plugs ( track feeds and switches)without cutting them off and still use dcc with a track bus for the layout?
Yes, This can also be done with a Kato extension cable but at some point you will need so connect to the bus line
I'm brand new to N scale and will be installing KATO Unitrack for DCC eventually as I built a new N scale layout. Procedures were explained OK, but it would have been much more helpful so SHOW on a layout as you're installing the track, as well as EXPLAIN how it's done.
That would be OK but I am far beyond that application and it is not that hard to do.
Thanks for commenting and watching.
Mike
Hi Mike,
How do you connect the kato terminal joiners to the bus wire under the layout ? Do you cut off-the white kato plugs and use Suit case connectors or other ideas thst you might have. Thank-you,George
I cut it off and solder.
Mike
@@N-Scale thanks Mike! Do you have a video on your bus wire set up?
@@NHseacoast I do not. A bus line is too simple.
Very good vid.I also insulated all outgoing tracks of the switches and it worked fine.Exception is the double crossover who needs feeders on all 4 joints.The terminal joiners are highly recommended.But i still wonder why the Kato US switches are different to the versions here in Europe.My switches have metalplates on the bottom and no possibility to change the power routing.
Carsten Alwes Our #6's are that way too. The #4's are completely different.
Mike
@@N-Scale So, just to clarify, is it YES, I SHOULD power all 4 sections of my double crossover on my Kato double Unitrack? I presume you are agreeing with the questioner.
@@jbjb2158 Yes you need to power all 4 legs.
Mike A person could use a Drop of Super Glue like Locktite Professional Zap a Drop up under the plug where it set's up against the Feeder Track then it wont come out.. Just a suggestion but using the feeders is excellent too..
+brakeman 3985 Yes you could or some use silicone.
Mike
I prefer using the rail joiner as feeder wires...no glueing, more secure and easier for maintenance.
This was very helpful, thank you!
Glad to help Scott.
Mike
Mike ,I e heard that Kato engines do not like anything over 12 volts abd thsy one should use a Kato pier pack or Sunil ISE to make sure yiu do it burn out those motors is gif true? George
False, Mike But no one runs them that fast , I Hope
so.... if my entire n scale layout is 10"x31 1/2" yes that's INCHES, ...... how far apart should my connections be?
Mike, I am using# 6 turnouts for a passing siding. I used 15 degrees 19 inch radius curves for the passing track but the spacing is still too wide next to the main line. Could you tell me which radius curve I need to get the spacing between the main and the siding more prototypically correct. Thanks
Nope , I am not good at geometry. I cut my own pieces.
Thanks , Mike
Mike Fifer I'm no good at geometry either. Didn't need it to be exactly to specs, just wanted it a little closer. I'm not a rivet counter. Just like to have fun with the hobby. Thanks for your reply Mike.
Take you radius and make several cuts in the road bed with a razor saw and just bend it in a little more.
Thanks , Mike
Good evening from the UK! Thanks for this video, its been really informative. I have a few questions I'd like to ask you. 1) By putting insulators on all the points, this must surely create a dead spot on the point with no power supply (for the direction the point is not set to) - Does this not cause you problems if running a locomotive across it in a different direction and the point incorrectly set for the running of that loco? 2) How would you insulate a KATO 20-230 Double track crossing and KATO 20210. Thank you! -Andrew
1) By putting insulators on all the points, this must surely create a dead spot on the point with no power supply (for the direction the point is not set to) - Does this not cause you problems if running a locomotive across it in a different direction and the point incorrectly set for the running of that loco?
No The frog changes polarity with the switch and I mention I RE_FEED te track beyond the turnouts (if possible) . A yard ladder or other connected turnouts would not need insulation.
2) How would you insulate a KATO 20-230 Double track crossing and KATO 20210.
They already are insulated in the center and only require power to the main side.
How do you Connect Kato To a Tech II Controller?
super informative for a new n scale guy like me!
Thanks so much Roland !!
Hi Mike, I will be going to DCC within a month or two and I will start with a Digitrax Zephyr. My question is, after I run my buss wire around the track what do I do with the end of the wires? Do I just leave them hanging there, or do I reconnect them to the power source to make a continuous loop? Also, the yard turnouts scare me, say you have 4 turnouts in a row, do you leave the straight track un-insulated and only insulate the turnout track, I'm confused? Anyway, thanks again for another instructional video, you are helping me allot. Fred
Fred Cordini Fred , You can make a loop or you can dead end the bus. Either way is fine. When doing a yard ladder the power is normally fed to the first turnout and the it (in turn) feeds the rest of them in that ladder. I still normally insulate the curve the yard lead it's self is on and re-feed that track.
Thanks , Mike
N Scale How To Channel Thanks for your help, Mike. Still a little confused on the yard, but I think I got it. Maybe, if you have the time, one of your schematic drawings would help. Thanks again, Fred
Fred Cordini I would need YOUR schematic.
Thanks , Mike
N Scale How To Channel Thank you so much Mike. I will draw out my idea and email it to you at the FHS address if that's okay. I appreciate your help. Fred
Fred Cordini That works for me Fred.
Mike
Hi Mike, very good videos. Love watching them and learning a lot. I have one question which I cannot find an answer to anywhere on the web. I'm going to set up my Kato Unitrack for DC to start off with. I bought a Backmann EZ Command. So, when I go to DCC I want to use my Kato Switch Controllers that I will have been using on DC(I'm not a genius when it comes to wiring). Do I need to do anything special to use these switches for dcc? I can't find an answer to this anywhere. Thanks
+Walter Deville No, no modifications needed. and you can still work them as you did with DC. Only the actual track will be DCC.
Thanks , Mike
Thanks Mike, You don't know how relieved I am to hear this. I'll keep reading on this and try and learn some basic wiring. Thanks again Mike, you're a lot of help.
+Walter Deville Your welcome Walt, Mike
Hi Mike , is there another method to connect he track feeders to bus as I'm not comfortable with soldering. Thanks.
Yes, I suppose you could use the suitcase conectors but I prefer soldering.
Mike
@@N-Scale thanks Mike you could do a whole video for guys like me on hooking up 24 -818 feeders-with solder or suit case connectors to the bus. As I my brain is like mush snd it comes to electrical issues. I wish lived close to your layout/ store as a visit is worth a 1000 words .
@@NHseacoast No because I do not and will not use them.
th-cam.com/video/nuqpQ875tEw/w-d-xo.html
Hi Mike, great video but I'm having a problem with the N scale Kato double crossover on dcc. Whenever a train changes track it shorts out my controller. How do I wire the crossover to make it work? Thanks.
You have a reversed wire or complete loop. ALL wiring polarity NEEDS TO BE THE SAME.
Mike
@@N-Scale Thanks for the fast reply Mike, I just checked the wiring and you are correct. I just changed a wire and now all is working. Thanks so much!
@@Nemesisrooster Good for you !!!
So I just want to make sure for I am putting together a layout, when adding another turnout to another turnout. I don’t have add insulators but add feeder wires for power and my dcc trains will run fine without the insulators?
I assume Kato turnouts , but yes.
Mike
Correct. I’m putting together a layout with Kato unitrack
Mike thinking of going to kato! I have NCE PH PRO-R Not sure how would do signals on kato without Katos signals ! Was thinking IR what would you suggest? Will prob use digitrax ds64 for the turnout control can I run signals thru that also that will turn when the switch is thrown like with a tortoise?
Kato signals DO NOT work with DCC.
Mike
Hi Mike, great video. Are you isolating the turnouts for easier detection of faults or is there another reason?
GandZscale It is indeed the easier detection of faults and I never trust a turnouts points or internal parts to transmit power forward.
Thanks , Mike
Hi I have a kato switch that lost its snap. Can it be fixed to function or do u need to replace it? Thanks, enjoyed your video's
It needs to be replaced.
Thanks , Mike
Very informative.
Thanks Glenn
Thankyou Mike....my wife is an expert in digital ❤💥🩵🧩♾️💍♾️ thankyou bubbie 💙🔥🔥❤️ Robbie
I have a question on the turnouts, what if I want to use the turnout controllers that kato offers, would I be able to hook them up to my turnouts, put all the controllers together then wire them to the dcc pack I'm using?
You would need a separate power supply for the Kato controllers
Thanks Mike as usual y I u did a good job of explaining how to. ..
Thanks Jack , Mike
Just re watching your video and this question popped into my little pea brain. You run a buss wire the attach feeders, how do you do that, cut off the Kato plug or are there matching plugs coming off your buss line?
+Mike Corwin Yes , Cut off the plug.
Thanks , Mike
+Mike Fifer thanx
Hi Mike, an informative video on KATO Unitrack turnouts and to consistently feed track power to the entrance of the turnout and insulating track feeds to the output sections. While I use KATO HO Unitrack, issues are similar but its turnouts are the reverse. In your video you show a KATO #6 N Turnout, which is power-routed and has a powered metal frog. The KATO HO #4 turnout is of the identical design. Alternatively, the KATO N #4 and KATO HO #6 turnouts have a dead frog with selectable power/non-power routing. Hence the KATO HO #6 are DCC-Friendly as would be the KATO N #4 Mistakes do happen but in my HO layout, if a loco enters a #4 HO turnout which isn't switched properly, there is short and the DCC system is interrupted. (A short would also occur in a DC system) So in your KATO N Scale layout, can you avoid these short circuits when entering an N #6 turnout from the wrong direction (that hasn't been switched properly)? Is there any solution really?
Nope , You need to be sure the turnout is thrown.
Mike
@@N-Scale this is my exact problem. New to Kato DCC N Scale. I used two #6s for a reverse loop (with AR1 installed) before knowing that they will short if not thrown to the correct direction. Means I cant just let the trains run unsupervised. Researching mods to the #6 but I haven't found anything that tells me what to do in an easy to understand way. I don't want to redesign for #4s (as its the "rural" section) but may have to unless someone posts a how-to video on this.
What is a typical size of layout for a beginner to N scale Kato layout that you would recommend?
It is dependant on the space you have but most start with a layout the size of a household door
@@N-Scale Thank you very much for your reply. I was thinking the size of piece of plywood - but door size will work. What do you recommend reading for starting out, landscaping, and electrical??? I plan to go with Kato N scale track Again thank you very much.
@@windowmsk Not sure where to tell you to start there , likely Google.
Thanks , Mike
DO YOU PUT THE PLUS SIDE OF THE WIRE ON THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE OF THE TRACK
It doesn't mater as long as they are all the same.
Mike
Mike would you do the insulated rail joiners onn thr ends on a kato double crossover switch? Or just #4 and #6?
Thanks,
Grorge
I am sorry but the spelling needs to be corrected as I do not know what you are asking.
Mike
@@N-Scale sorry I was trying to say. Can do you put insulated rail joiners and feeder after on a double crossoveEr switch too? As you described in your video as yiu did on other kato switches ?thank you.
@@NHseacoast NO , The Dbl Xing is insulated right down the middle if folks refer to the instructions, and calls for feeds to all four tracks into it.
Thanks , Mike
Ever use the 45 degree turnout, 20241?
Nope. Too small for my layout !!
Can you use rerailer track as a feeder in between the turnouts that's isolated
Yes.
Mike
Merry Christmas Mike from the Philippines
Merry Christmas to you as well.
Hello, I am new to this hobby but have quite a bit of N gauge unitrack and just running DC. Are the #6 turnouts electrofrog or insulfrog ? Are the #4 turnouts electrofrog or insulfrog ? Which is best for dcc elctro or insul, is there any difference in wiring ? If I want to still operate the points with DPDT switch how can I do this with DCC ? Thank you.
+Simon Worger The #6 are all power routing and the #4's are selectable. I would only recommend #6's as they are way more reliable. You can use either for DCC . I insulate all four rails leaving a turnout and re-feed the sections beyond. Please look here.
www.fiferhobby.com/html/how_to_make_kato_turnout_contr.html
Thanks , Mike
+Mike Fifer Thank you. How are you controlling the Kato points now with DCC, with the CAB ? Can I still use toggle switches ?
+Simon Worger I am using Digitrax DS64 stationary decoders and the throttle to throw them but you can certainly use the toggle switches instead.
Mike
Do you insulate all your switches Mike like for instance I have 14 switches do I need to insulate all 14
I do but you may not need to. You will have to research and think out the layout to be wired.
Mike
@@N-Scale thank you sir
@@seanpacificrailroad3700 Thanks Sean, Mike
And if I use dc locos on dcc track setups, will the loco still run?
What about the opposite, dcc on dc track?
RED OPPS dc on dcc is a no go. Dcc on dc works alright usually since most modern decoders are dual mode.
I FOUND IT! TY so very much! :)
Is there a certain dcc converter to plug in for KATO N scale track?
There is no plug to directly plug into the Bachmann but you can certainly cut a Kato cord and make something.
Thanks , Mike
I did this and did a double turn out. I isolated the second turnout and powered It. It did work accept if the switch isn't on the correct side leading it out, the loco stops and buzzes(short?). Any ideas? I mean I know the switch should be on the correct side. But If I for example forget not sure I want that happening to much. Or do I just live with it and not forget? hahaha
I am sorry but this discription makes no sense to me. I do not understand. Sounds like you have a feeder backwards somewhere. You will need to check ALL feeders.
Mike
Hello there, what would be the procedure for tomix fine track is it the same? I will be using tomix fine track on my layout
And also how about dcc chipping trains by Tomix, GreenMax, Bandai (Btrain shorty)
The Tomix Track works just like the Kato. I have no idea on the DCC on those locomotive brands.
Thanks , Mike
hello mike, if i put a decoder on my locomotives, can i still run it on dc rails? thank you-pong ignacio
You can but it will not run well.
Mike
Does this work with HO scale?
I would guess so.
Mike
I'm just wondering... when given the choice of (N scale) track: Atlas (or MicroEngineering) Why would one choose the Kato track? I see at least one issue with this stuff... The grey plastic "ballast" it is fastened to would amplify the noise of rail to wheels.. Using Flex track and cork below dampens the track noise immensely.
It is used because it is super easy and reliable. There is no sound magnification.
Mike
Wisdom! Thanks Mike!!
can the three-way splitter be daisy chained?
Yes
How do you power your unitrack turnouts.
Howey Brooks I assume you to mean to throw them? I used a 16 VAC charging transformer I got at a garage sale and the Kato DC converter before I went to the Digitrax DS64's.
Thanks , Mike
Hi Mike. Very new to model railroading but I am well into my planning. So far I'm definitely going N scale and am looking at the Kato Unitrack particularly after seeing your series of videos and others. Another definite I have gone with is DCC and after watching this video I just had a question when it comes to DCC wiring when it comes to multiple turnouts for example in a shunting yard situation. In otherwords you had a set of unitrack turnouts linked together making up a yard. I'm specifically asking about the positions for the feeder wire joiners as supplied by Kato. I hope this makes sense.
+Ratel Mike In the case of feeders to a yard ladder you only need to feed the single track side of the first turnout then the direction that turnout is thrown dictates the direction of power. Once you get to a point where you have track leaving any of those turnouts I would insulate there and re-feed the track beyond.
Thanks , Mike
Yes hello my name is Evelyn is there any way to go wireless with your Kato Switching track like a remote or software
Yes you can go wireless with any of the wireless DCC systems.
Thanks , Mike
@@N-Scale I know some ladies into the hobby...Perhaps you could find another word to use so much, besides, "guys" ;)
Thank you for this video.
Glad to help !!