Kato have some good stuff, but for me, I am EXTREMELY prototypical, hence the turntable must have a typical well depth beneath the bridge. I also like loco sound on all the time. My bridge is powered and I use a reversing switch when I have rotated my loco 180 degrees. I do like the Kato short buffer/bumper dead-end sections. Might model my own using that design.
You're welcome and good luck with yours. You can install a reverser according to a a guy that left that comment on this vid. I checked his vids out and finally understand how he did it. I'm gonna wait on doing that cause I'm having a blast worh mine without the reverser. Thanks for commenting 🙂
I hear ya there! Just get a little at the time. At least it fits all together well. Thanks for commenting. I hope I answered some questions about the turntable running on DCC.
I do plan to paint and weather at some point. Ground cover and all after if figure out 1 or 2 more industries and layout options 🤔. I will probably sink the turntable and roundhouses down into the layout so it will be flush or build up around it. I'm glad this vid helped the thinking around the turntable system using DCC. It can be done differently, but this was the simplest working solution for me 👍👌🙌
Interesting set up it does take the fun out of Idling Engine on the Turntable but if this setup is suitable for your Engines that's all that counts, if its ok to share i hooked up the Table with the DC Green plug to my NCE AR10 which by way provides full Auto Reversing & Circuit Protection i then isolated the parking Tracks so an Engine or several Engines can being idling no matter what track the table is attached is set too, the NCE Auto Reverser being it's a solid state device works exceptionally fast along with it's Circuit Protection kills shorts in there Tracks allowing the Engine to remain running as turns on the Table.. But again if the Setup works thats Awesome & the Engine sheds look pretty cool as Well.. Allen D RDA N Scale
Man, that is great information! That's the detailed info I could not find a video about (I searched far and wide) so I'm glad to have this under this vid. I wished I had it in the video, LOL. That would not be hard at all to add to try it out. Questions: 1. So you have never had any missed shorts with it set up your way? 2. Your parking tracks are isolated, but what about the incoming rails from the main layout?
Hey Nitro haven't caught your name Sir in your Video's so we'll just go with Nitro for 😊 now.. Before buying the Turntable & my first set up Nitro I was looking towards using MRC's Auto Reverser i had seen a video from Streamlined Backshops using the AD520 i like its simplicity & it was a cheaper than that of the NCE but finding one was a bit of a challenge.. MRC Flourished in the earlier years & was still going up about 2020 or 21 but things have slowed down for them.. So i focused on the NCE this company has a good reputation an there products are US made so I Got the AR10 but before I installed the AR10 i called ED NCE chief products specialist I asked ED about hooking the AR10 to my Turntable he said Allen is your setup the same as we talked before I said yes sir he said ok you pointed out you have a Terminal Block hooked just downstream of Powercab & I replied i do he said take a set of wires a mini buss line & connect to the Track side of the AR10 then connect the Wire that comes from the Turntable controller to the Loop side of the AR10 the Turntable is then powered by DCC it is Circuit Protected & the Reverser built in it is Solid State so it works better than the Competition he said that includes Digitrax so called Auto Reverser there's a Video on Roy Smiths channel Nitro that shows how smooth AR10 works in a difficult Area on his Layout.. Sorry I stretch this out Nitro but as for isolating the Turntable I did at the Tracks leading into the Turntable I was seeing a short & I believe it was from the Siding tracks after I isolated the Turntable from the those tracks the short went away the AR10 has been giving me Green lights all the Way the parking Tracks that run under the Engine shop & out past it & the third Siding track are all isolated & are paired together & are running off a short Buss wire that I hooked up to my NCE CP6 I will eventually switch over to NCE'S EB1 so there hooked up to a better Circuit Breaker but we're waiting for our hobby shop to get some more in but everything with Turntable is working tip top so far we're also waiting patiently on few pieces of Track a Second Double Crossover so we can remove all the #4 turnouts for good my No.4 Double Track that's hooked to my 2 #6 turnout is giving me headaches when I roll a Kato Engine on the Short stub there's no lighting up from my CP6 which basically uses car bulbs as circuit breaker but when I roll a Atlas or other Make of Engine the light blinks or brightens up Quick so I tried some settings on the Double 4 as pointed out by Kato but as I talked to Mike Fifer uncle Mike I call him he said I might have one of the early Double 4's that Kato miss printed the correct way to set the Track up for DCC so that could I replaced it with my Double 6 Crossover no more shorts i can't wait to replace this last #4 Again Nitro I'm sorry for stretching out a short Answer you was asking on how I isolate my Turntable but I wanted to pass on what I learned & maybe a bit more.. thanks for Reading my long reply.. Take Care my Friend you need any help I'll try as much as I can to help ya & I started a new Group on Facebook its called Kato N Scale Turntable.. I set the Group up for Modlers seeking a place to go for help on building a spot aka Benchwork for the Turntable, hooking it up DC or DCC & setting up tracks & buildings that will work with the Turntable check it out Sir Allen D
This is more great info on all the trackage and contacting knowledgeable people for resolves to issues 👌👍🙌👏💪. I don't mind at all for the long post 😊. I'll go to your turntable vids and comment some more to give you some support too bud! I've been watching them. Good stuff! I have a DCC Specialties PSXX1 circuit breaker which appears to be awesome cause it gets used frequently 😅. I bet NCE told you to hook the AR10 up to a direct bus line from your power block so there would be the least amount of "noise", for the lack of a better term, so the AR10 would "reverse" before the EB1 would "break the circuit"?? That would make sense to me. I wonder if this same method would work well with my PSXX1? I bought this instead of the EB1 due to it being very programmable in several parameters. Although I use it stock due to having no booster on my layout yet. It came set up for normal starter DCC system power (1 to 2 amps) I believe. You can tell I'm just wondering how in the world does the reverser do its thing before the circuit breaker senses a short. I think this PSXX1 is very fast so I might have to program delay in it if it trips before the AR10 reverses. I hope I'm explaining that correctly 😂. Thanks for all the information.
Is the turntable assembly and track the same elevation as std. Kato Unitrack? Are any shims or risers needed. It kind of looks like the turntable sits higher then unitrack?
It is supposed to be countersunk 5 or 7mm or either build up the surrounding landscape to the turntable height. Thanks for noticing and asking that question
Hi me friend, how have you been? Great video. I have the same kato turntable and when I installed it I had no problems. Time passed and I installed a booster and that's when some problems began. The turntable bridge is energized, however, when the locomotives enter it, they lose contact with the central station (they do nothing). I have checked the cables and everything, and there are no voltage problems. The turntable was left in the booster area. Digitrax central and booster use (DB150 and 100 respectively) Could you help me??? Thank you so much.
I would unhook the booster and go back the way you had it. Then change one thing at a tine until the problem reoccur again. Then you will figure out what is causing the issue.
Watch the video and rewind a little bit at the time, and I think I explain how to hook it up the way it works for me. It's really running leads to all the tracks the same as the other track with the only exception being straight across the incoming track and the track directly on the opposite side of the turntable. You reverse the leads. But if you have tracks exiting to other parts of the track, then this would require a reverser, I would imagine.
It small for me too bud! I still would rather have done HO but I wanted more track and I'm hard headed LOL. Kato is some good stuff. Thanks for the good comment 👍
@@David-yo5re yes I know Kato makes some HO scale stuff, but not the offerings are far and few between, primarily Amtrak stuff, at least in the US. Maybe overseas their offerings are much wider.
Excellent instructions! Im glad I watched this before trying it.
Glad it might help ya. Come back and ask anything if ya get snagged up 👍
Awesome, Kato track and accessories are the best for N scale. Can't wait for you to scenic this layout.
Thanks for commenting.
Such a informative video so real looking
Thanks a lot 😊
That's really cool. Lots of action just in one area. Bet all that wasn't cheap to build. Job well done and explained.
Not cheap but it works good when ya get it together. I did buy it in stages LOL
I love your videos. I am getting ready to set up N scale and I purchased Unitrack sets and city tramway sets.
Sounds exciting. Take your time and run trains often to discover issues as you build parts if the track
Very nice and informative video. Thank you for your time helping many model railroaders.
Well thank you very much for such a nice comment. 👍
Thank you, very good infromation
Glad it helps
Just what I needed to know. 😊👍
Glad it helped ya bud
Great instructions
Thanks so much 🙌
Kato have some good stuff, but for me, I am EXTREMELY prototypical, hence the turntable must have a typical well depth beneath the bridge. I also like loco sound on all the time. My bridge is powered and I use a reversing switch when I have rotated my loco 180 degrees. I do like the Kato short buffer/bumper dead-end sections. Might model my own using that design.
Thanks for all the good comments. Yea the reverser letting g the sound work all the time is a great addition
Very good video. Thank you
Thanks, and I hope it was enough to help.
New sub here, I have the turntable. Thanks for sharing how you set yours up. It will help me out a lot.
You're welcome and good luck with yours. You can install a reverser according to a a guy that left that comment on this vid. I checked his vids out and finally understand how he did it. I'm gonna wait on doing that cause I'm having a blast worh mine without the reverser. Thanks for commenting 🙂
@@NitroStarGT I’d rather not deal with a reverser. Your way is much easier for me. Thanks again. Be blessed 😇.
I feel same and Thanks... I am so blessed 🙌
Thank you, Thank you for this. I Have been waiting for you to do this video. Great info on how to. Now I just need to buy one.lol
I hear ya there! Just get a little at the time. At least it fits all together well. Thanks for commenting. I hope I answered some questions about the turntable running on DCC.
Thank you for doing this. turned on a few lightbulbs for me. Are you planning on painting and weathering.
I do plan to paint and weather at some point. Ground cover and all after if figure out 1 or 2 more industries and layout options 🤔. I will probably sink the turntable and roundhouses down into the layout so it will be flush or build up around it. I'm glad this vid helped the thinking around the turntable system using DCC. It can be done differently, but this was the simplest working solution for me 👍👌🙌
Interesting set up it does take the fun out of Idling Engine on the Turntable but if this setup is suitable for your Engines that's all that counts, if its ok to share i hooked up the Table with the DC Green plug to my NCE AR10 which by way provides full Auto Reversing & Circuit Protection i then isolated the parking Tracks so an Engine or several Engines can being idling no matter what track the table is attached is set too, the NCE Auto Reverser being it's a solid state device works exceptionally fast along with it's Circuit Protection kills shorts in there Tracks allowing the Engine to remain running as turns on the Table..
But again if the Setup works thats Awesome & the Engine sheds look pretty cool as Well..
Allen D RDA N Scale
Man, that is great information! That's the detailed info I could not find a video about (I searched far and wide) so I'm glad to have this under this vid. I wished I had it in the video, LOL. That would not be hard at all to add to try it out.
Questions:
1. So you have never had any missed shorts with it set up your way?
2. Your parking tracks are isolated, but what about the incoming rails from the main layout?
Hey Nitro haven't caught your name Sir in your Video's so we'll just go with Nitro for 😊 now..
Before buying the Turntable & my first set up Nitro I was looking towards using MRC's Auto Reverser i had seen a video from Streamlined Backshops using the AD520 i like its simplicity & it was a cheaper than that of the NCE but finding one was a bit of a challenge.. MRC Flourished in the earlier years & was still going up about 2020 or 21 but things have slowed down for them.. So i focused on the NCE this company has a good reputation an there products are US made so I Got the AR10 but before I installed the AR10 i called ED NCE chief products specialist I asked ED about hooking the AR10 to my Turntable he said Allen is your setup the same as we talked before I said yes sir he said ok you pointed out you have a Terminal Block hooked just downstream of Powercab & I replied i do he said take a set of wires a mini buss line & connect to the Track side of the AR10 then connect the Wire that comes from the Turntable controller to the Loop side of the AR10 the Turntable is then powered by DCC it is Circuit Protected & the Reverser built in it is Solid State so it works better than the Competition he said that includes Digitrax so called Auto Reverser there's a Video on Roy Smiths channel Nitro that shows how smooth AR10 works in a difficult Area on his Layout..
Sorry I stretch this out Nitro but as for isolating the Turntable I did at the Tracks leading into the Turntable I was seeing a short & I believe it was from the Siding tracks after I isolated the Turntable from the those tracks the short went away the AR10 has been giving me Green lights all the Way the parking Tracks that run under the Engine shop & out past it & the third Siding track are all isolated & are paired together & are running off a short Buss wire that I hooked up to my NCE CP6 I will eventually switch over to NCE'S EB1 so there hooked up to a better Circuit Breaker but we're waiting for our hobby shop to get some more in but everything with Turntable is working tip top so far we're also waiting patiently on few pieces of Track a Second Double Crossover so we can remove all the #4 turnouts for good my No.4 Double Track that's hooked to my 2 #6 turnout is giving me headaches when I roll a Kato Engine on the Short stub there's no lighting up from my CP6 which basically uses car bulbs as circuit breaker but when I roll a Atlas or other Make of Engine the light blinks or brightens up Quick so I tried some settings on the Double 4 as pointed out by Kato but as I talked to Mike Fifer uncle Mike I call him he said I might have one of the early Double 4's that Kato miss printed the correct way to set the Track up for DCC so that could I replaced it with my Double 6 Crossover no more shorts i can't wait to replace this last #4
Again Nitro I'm sorry for stretching out a short Answer you was asking on how I isolate my Turntable but I wanted to pass on what I learned & maybe a bit more.. thanks for Reading my long reply..
Take Care my Friend you need any help I'll try as much as I can to help ya & I started a new Group on Facebook its called Kato N Scale Turntable.. I set the Group up for Modlers seeking a place to go for help on building a spot aka Benchwork for the Turntable, hooking it up DC or DCC & setting up tracks & buildings that will work with the Turntable check it out Sir
Allen D
This is more great info on all the trackage and contacting knowledgeable people for resolves to issues 👌👍🙌👏💪. I don't mind at all for the long post 😊. I'll go to your turntable vids and comment some more to give you some support too bud! I've been watching them. Good stuff!
I have a DCC Specialties PSXX1 circuit breaker which appears to be awesome cause it gets used frequently 😅. I bet NCE told you to hook the AR10 up to a direct bus line from your power block so there would be the least amount of "noise", for the lack of a better term, so the AR10 would "reverse" before the EB1 would "break the circuit"?? That would make sense to me. I wonder if this same method would work well with my PSXX1? I bought this instead of the EB1 due to it being very programmable in several parameters. Although I use it stock due to having no booster on my layout yet. It came set up for normal starter DCC system power (1 to 2 amps) I believe. You can tell I'm just wondering how in the world does the reverser do its thing before the circuit breaker senses a short. I think this PSXX1 is very fast so I might have to program delay in it if it trips before the AR10 reverses. I hope I'm explaining that correctly 😂. Thanks for all the information.
Is the turntable assembly and track the same elevation as std. Kato Unitrack? Are any shims or risers needed. It kind of looks like the turntable sits higher then unitrack?
It is supposed to be countersunk 5 or 7mm or either build up the surrounding landscape to the turntable height. Thanks for noticing and asking that question
I say old chap, your American accent is a little different to my British one. ;-) Thumbs Up.
😳 Bahahahahaha 😂👍👏
Hi me friend, how have you been? Great video. I have the same kato turntable and when I installed it I had no problems. Time passed and I installed a booster and that's when some problems began. The turntable bridge is energized, however, when the locomotives enter it, they lose contact with the central station (they do nothing). I have checked the cables and everything, and there are no voltage problems. The turntable was left in the booster area. Digitrax central and booster use (DB150 and 100 respectively) Could you help me??? Thank you so much.
Could you share a diagram of how you connected it? Thank you so much...
I would unhook the booster and go back the way you had it. Then change one thing at a tine until the problem reoccur again. Then you will figure out what is causing the issue.
Watch the video and rewind a little bit at the time, and I think I explain how to hook it up the way it works for me. It's really running leads to all the tracks the same as the other track with the only exception being straight across the incoming track and the track directly on the opposite side of the turntable. You reverse the leads. But if you have tracks exiting to other parts of the track, then this would require a reverser, I would imagine.
I do the same setup on my layout only for my switches.
Yes, that is the same method eh. Thanks for commenting 🙂
@@NitroStarGT you’re welcome.
N scale is just too dang small for my tastes (and by tastes I mean my old eyes), but dangit if Kato doesn't make some fantastic products.
It small for me too bud! I still would rather have done HO but I wanted more track and I'm hard headed LOL. Kato is some good stuff. Thanks for the good comment 👍
KATO Makes track and accessories for HO scale also. Although, I haven't seen anything about a turntable in HO.
@@David-yo5re yes I know Kato makes some HO scale stuff, but not the offerings are far and few between, primarily Amtrak stuff, at least in the US. Maybe overseas their offerings are much wider.
Well thank ya much. Scenery is gonna be something 😢
Those Kato turntables are kind of expensive, $233.00 on Amazon
That's actually an awesome price. Mine was 300. Plus, all of the extention tracks, feeders, and round houses