End Bound Single Bowline (EBSB Bowline) How-to [ENG]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ม.ค. 2025
- The End Bound Single Bowline (EBSB) is a great knot to tie your rope to your harness for lead climbing applications, its both stable and secure.
Step by step:
Pass rope through both attachement points of your harness.
Pull about an arms length of rope (120cm / 48in)
Make a bight of rope on the standing end. Make sure the part that goes to your harness is on top.
Now grab your working end and lets use the rabbit analogy to construct our bowline: The rabit comes out of his hole...
Its a great time to cinch the knot tight to your harness
The rabbit goes around the tree...
And back into his hole... This creates a normal single bowline, which we now have to make stable and secure...
Now grab the working end and go around the standing end again...
And into the nipping loop once again...
We now proceed to go parallel to the nipping loop
And we exit following the standing end making sure we're passing both the collar and the binding turn. This secures the tail of the rope
Now proceed to tighten everything and verify that:
The nipping loop strangles 3 strands of rope.
The tail exits through both collar and binding turn.
We have a figure of 8 form with 2 mouth shapes.
www.paci.com.au...
igkt.net/sm/
Nice to see this knot getting some publicity at last. Comparing it to the Fo8 re-thread, it's as secure, doesn't jam and, I'd argue, is easier to tie once you've learned it. The best tie-in I've come across in the 50-odd years I've been climbing and instructing. The Fo8 R/T just happens to be the entrenched orthodoxy...
Correct
the main downside is it's harder to visually check
@@gr.4380 Only if it's new to you. The same is true of any knot.
Thank you for sharing your video...one of the better presentations found on the internet :)
Just advising that the Analysis of Bowlines paper has been updated - now VER 2.9a
At 3:42 into your video - you are forming a 'nipping loop'. The loop you are forming has 'Z' chirality (ie it is right-handed 'nipping loop').
At 4:16, you now have the base structure - it is properly called a "Simple Bowline" (ie #1010 Simple Bowline).
At 4:26, you are taking a 'binding turn' back though the 'nipping loop' - not the standing end. This creates 3 rope diameters inside the 'nipping loop'.
At 5:14, you now have an 'inherently secure' Bowline. Leave at least 200mm tail (after dressing/cinching is completed).
The EBSB Bowline belongs to a special class of knots that are 'inherently secure'.
Inherently secure knots do not require any form of backup stopper knot to lock down the structure.They are particularly resistant to:
Slack shaking
Cyclic loading
Flogging
Slow pull to the knots MBS yield point (ie pull-it-till-it breaks).
Inherently secure knots are suitable for use in life critical applications.
Some commentators like to use the tired and often parroted argument that some of these newer inherently secure 'Bowlines' should not be used because; "...your climbing partner can't check and verify the knot... blah blah blah..."
An immediate reply is to think about the following points:
Rope solo climbers...who checks them?
Professional Guides working one-on-one private instruction with their 'client'... the Guide can't ask the total novice 'client'; .. "Could you please check my tie-in knot!" That would be a meaningless gesture.
Merely because a person doesn't know a particular knot, doesn't make that knot - or the climber - 'unsafe'. I have climbed with people who don't know how to tie a #1047 F8 knot - so they looked at it but didn't understand it. Does this mean I can't use a #1047 F8 in that instance?
Training and practice is key - you need to learn how to tie your knots with precision. What matters is the person who ties the knot must be 100% confident and exercise due diligence in making sure the selected knot is accurately dressed and cinched with sufficient tail protruding from the knot core. It is irrelevant if an another climber who is present remarks; "Heh, I've never seen that knot...it is therefore unsafe and I forbid you to use it!"
Or... "Heh, I've never seen that type of camming device before...it is therefore unsafe and I forbid you to use it!"
Or... "Heh, I've never seen that type of harness before... it is therefore unsafe and I forbid you to use it!"...and so on...
If a knot requires a 'backup stopper knot', by definition, it is NOT inherently secure.
The link to the webpage where this pdf document can be found is here: www.paci.com.au/knots.php (at #2 in the table).
hey, whenever I try to find the document, it says I need a password. do you have a link to the paper?
I, too, am a fan of chemistry. One of the few
Thanks for the thorough reply
Excellent demonstration, thank you!
This is my favorite Bowline followed very closely by the Lee-Zep, especially since the Zeppelin is my favorite bend.
Is your favorite band Led Zeppelin then?
@@shoqed funny! 😂
Once you start tying those zeppelins you get obsessed.
Nice nice
Nice video!
Nice video. Pro Climbing
do you need to tie a back up / safety knot on top of this? like you would for other bowline knots? thanks~
No, that's the whole point
What are the benefits of this knot instead of using the regular 8?
It can take a lot of falls but you can still take it off without struggling unlike the figure 8 which can tighten up really bad and if you combine it with being lowered already pump you can look to spend long minutes struggling to get it out
Also it’s a one phase tie in. You thread the rope through your harness and tie in, unlike the 8 where you need the bitter end free to tie a precursor knot before you go through your harness. The snap bowline takes seconds and the follow through a few seconds more. I could tie 3 EBSBs in the time it takes to tie one figure 8 rt
"Take it your like, good hombre"
Beware of that "paper". It's not really from any association or agency. It's just one guy's ideas on knots with almost no appropriate testing.
Still better than the simple bowline with a barrel knot end that adam ondra uses. at the end of the day climbing is about risk management and problem solving on an individual basis
Mark Gommer's paper includes an extensive analysis of the internal structure of bowlines. It's very thorough and valuable.
What a strange and ill conceived comment.
I also note that this poorly conceived comment originates from an anonymous source who chooses to hide?
@@markgommers4858 You're the bowline king, thanks for your work! I really hope you're right because I'm putting my faith in your EBSB, but still backing it up with a stopper knot for good measure ;)
@@markgommers4858 probably that dweeb who tied a bowline with a gigantic tie-in loop, didnt dress it, and ring loaded it over a smooth steel tube to show how bad bowline is 😂