2015 - 2020 Ford F150 Alpine 5 Channel Amp and Sub Install
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Parts linked in the description below!
****For an updated version of this video with the factory radio, click here:
• 2015 - 2020 Ford F150 ...
For an updated version of this video with an aftermarket radio, click here: • 2015 - 2020 Ford F150 ...
Watch a full tutorial as a 2016 Ford F150 XLT (non-ampified) will have brand new Alpine 5 Channel Amp, Bass Knob PDX-V9, AudioControl LC7i and Pioneer 10" subwoofer installed. This vehicle has the factory Ford SYNC non-amplified system which will be retained.
This video applies to Ford F150 models for years 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, and 2020. This video also includes factory radio removal, wiring, installation, and testing.
To see the front door speaker install on this Ford, click here:
• 2015 - 2020 Ford F150 ...
For the Alpine 5 channel amp unboxing, click here:
• Alpine 5 Channel Amp a...
For the Stinger Amplifier wiring kit unboxing, click here:
• Stinger 4 Gauge Amplif...
Door Speaker / Stereo wiring diagram:
FRONT LEFT+ = WHITE
FRONT LEFT- = WHITE / BROWN
FRONT RIGHT+ = WHITE / PURPLE
FRONT RIGHT- = WHITE / ORANGE
REAR LEFT+ = WHITE / GREEN
REAR LEFT- = BROWN / YELLOW
REAR RIGHT+ = BROWN / WHITE
REAR RIGHT- = BROWN / BLUE
If you have any questions, leave a comment below! Be sure to like and subscribe!
If you want a pre-built harness by us, click here:
www.provobeast...
Parts Used (Amazon Associate Paid Links):
*Alpine 5 Channel Amp PDX-V9: amzn.to/2STHhvI
*AudioControl LC7i 6 Channel Line out converter: amzn.to/3zRQXXY
*Stinger 4 Gauge Amp Wiring Kit SK4641: amzn.to/3j9A99c
*100ft 4-conductor Speaker Wire
---Recommended 2 orders of Metra MC918-20 Speed wire: amzn.to/3xK4PSk
*Pioneer 10" Loaded Subwoofer Enclosure TS-SWX2502 (Discontinued)
---Recommended Sub enclosure: amzn.to/3qkIiJn
*As an alternative to cutting into the factory harness, we suggest using a T Harness AX-DSP-FD2.
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
Thanks for taking the time to do this. Talked to several shops around town and none made me feel confident letting them tear into my truck. Just completed the same install ... did it all myself using your video... saved a ton of money. Loving my upgraded stereo!
Glad to help. Subscribe!
Great video.. thanks for posting it.
Do you know about how many ft of wire you used total?
Maybe I missed it but what did you run your remote turn on wire to? From the truck.
15:50
How would you wire the head unit if you plan on upgrading the speaker wire to a 18 gauge wire. Or would this setup be sufficient? I bought a Rockford r400-4D and I want to use it to power all 4 door speakers, which I plan on upgrading to some better coaxials. Got any recommendations on speakers too? I listen to a wide variety of music however I'm really lacking mid bass due to the two 10 inch subs I have now. So the two 10's are connected to a jl audio mono block amp. I imagine I would have to rewire it as well to incorporate it into the lc7i that I also bought? I'm just a little confused on wiring up the head unit unless I should just follow your setup in the video. Let me know if you could offer some help! Thanks!
You could probably run your wiring very similarily to the video as the factory gauge wire generally can sustain up to 100 watts rms max per channel. Essentially, if you were to run your own speaker wire, the install would be the same, except to where you would run your speaker wire output from the amp and to the doors specifically, not back to the radio harness like in the video. You will still need an LC7i unless your RF can take a high level speaker input.
So I could just use 9 wire like you did behind the speaker harness? Except I only use one 9 wire for the signal to the speaker level inputs of the lc7i. Then I would hook up RCAs from output of lc7i to amp input. Then from my amps I add new speaker wires leading to the door speakers. Thanks for the reply, and I'm sorry if these are dumb questions but I just want to make sure I get it right before I tear up the inside of my truck lol.
Nope you nailed it!
Thanks!
LoL why does your component's cost more than the amplifier powering them?
Good question for the owner who decided to have them installed.
Parts linked in the description!
Also, for an updated version of this video, click here: th-cam.com/video/-_GPd8Y7yGw/w-d-xo.html
Wow talk about watching the video a day late!!! Nice work. I just had to go by research, but nailed it on the first try. No noise, and started up first try. I'm using the "auto sense" feature and so far so good. I'm running all new 16 guage kicker speaker wire to kicker ks speakers, powered by a jl audio 400/4 amp. Subs will come later, that's why I added the lc7i even though my amp can convert speaker level inputs. I will say this, this install is not for the faint of heart. It's not complicated once you understand it, but the amount of work to re-wire speakers into factory boots will take a good 8 hours, and a lot of cussing and beer. You have to drill through connectors and run wire through boots if you want a clean look that doesn't look modified. Once the speaker wire is ran, only then can you "start" the install. Expect a mess of wires. Expect a full weekend to complete the job right. Of course that's only with new speaker wire. If you just ran two 9 wires/speedwire with power and ground, expect a full day from start to finish with everything buttoned back up and tuned. I decided to do everything now, in case I wanna go crazy later. I still think it's a good idea because I'm running 75 watts rms to each speaker now.
"If I'm not following along you dont blame me it's all good" BAHAHAHA. I always listen to background stereo tech jargon as relaxation white noise. Lol
T-harness dude
is the LC7 necessary for those of us without the sony factory sound system? or can we use an LC2 or something similar?
You need a Rockford DSR1
A T-Harness and two sets of speedwire would make this a lot easier.
One wasn't available on the market at the time of filming of this video, (2014).
Where do you run the 7th 3.5 speaker on the dash to?
its very informative i just wish you made this video 6 months ago when i was installing it would've helped a bunch! good job man
Awesome job i did same think in my local car stereo shop in NY they fuck up everything i re did my self all staff
Mike Angels. what shop?
Anyway I can hook up just wires to run subs in my 2016 ? And what wires colours are for the
Remote wire
12v power wire
Ground ?
red 12+, black-ground, blue remote turn on typically
IMO .... IF you're going to put THIS MUCH effort into an install ..... run the speaker wires DIRECTLY to the SPEAKERS ... NOT to the wires in the dash ....
Amazing and well detailed video. Keep up the good work!
i had to watch this twice just to follow the wire connection.....very nice
I'm curious if you have ever ran into noise issues due to the ecoboost Lariat trim and above. I've been thinking about upgrading my sound system in a 2015 F150 3.5 Ecoboost Lariat, but am hesitant based on what I've been reading about Ford's "Fake Engine Noise". They say the "Fake Engine Noise", when activated, will cause interference with the amplifier, producing loud obnoxious sound from the speakers. Since you have several F150 amp/speaker installs (which are amazing with great detail!) I figured you would have come across this issue. It looks like Ford can disable through IDS and is the only way out of the problem on non-Sony version radios. With the Sony radio type, it looks like two wires feeding into the stock amp can be removed from the plug to fix this. I have the non-Sony type. Thanks for the great video and hope to hear your thoughts.
We've gotten to the point where your vehicle's stereo isn't just the sound box anymore. It's an integrated module that plays a key part in a lot of your vehicle's functions. When I had the stereo on my 08 expedition done, I replaced everything, including the stereo itself, as the technology in that truck was a little more basic as far as the stereo. My 2020 F150 is a bit of a different situation. All things considered, a line convertor, in my opinion, would be the best option for an aftermarket stereo install. Obviously, I'm taking price into consideration. I would much rather keep the factory entertainment module and simply tap into the speaker outputs and run them into a line convertor. I think the way this guy went about this installation is probably the best way to go for anyone who's looking to upgrade their sound system in a newer vehicle, but doesn't want to drain their bank account to do so.
Great video.
Thanks for sharing.
You had me going until you started to cut factory wires. I personally don't like that. I normally run new wires and get new factory plugs to match factory or any other radio I'm using. This way if I ever decide to sale or put it back to stock I can. Otherwise a great video with lots of details. Thanks again.
Your leaving out a major detail on going through firewall. There's something your not showing. I can shove a wire in 1 1/2 inches and that's it.
Just a reminder all aluminum bodied ford truck need a dedicated ground to the battery. The factory grounds are not rated beyond the factory amp load
this is a horrible install. do yourself a favor, go watch 5star car stereo. don't cut factory harness when they make t harness. speed wire so much neater. and the aluminum body ford should have a ground run to battery, not just a body ground
How does the LOC work with 3 sets of RCA's on the output but only 2 channels on the input. I dont get how the 3rd channel has an output?
Don’t want to sound dumb but why don’t you just wire the ground cable from the battery directly to the amp?
So I'm assuming the center speaker will not be amplified and will continue to be powered by the stereo?
Do you have any videos installing an amplifier with the t harness? Thanks dude
Can I ask u. Where. The. +. Of. The speaker. Has. To. Be. Conectes. On. Top or bottom. ???
Do you know if this install will work with the 4inch non touch screen sync head unit?
Did you use morel speakers on front and rear.. thanks for loading the video it's a really detailed
Would you say the 4 wire conductor wire is better than using stingers speedwire?
This 4 conductor wire was a heaver gauge wire the speakers the customer decided to use. the Speedwire is great for speakers between 30-75 watts. Any more power, you will want to run a heavier gauge.
Hey PB love the vids, I notice you bust your but to reply to as many comments and question as possible ...kudos. I read through the comments to but I may have missed it. Like a dummy, I'm quickly realizing that it's a pain in the butt to run new speaker wire through the factory door boot. I'm using the same amp as in the vid. I'm thinking about switching gears and using the factory wire to get to the door, any concerns of the factory wire guage being to small for the amperage used? Thanks in advance
Usually factory wiring is fine if you are running around 100 watts max. Any more and you will need to run new wire. Thanks man!
Why did you hack up the harness instead of using a t-harness?
I definitely missed a stock opportunity here. The day before you bought all this wire I should have bought shares in speaker wire.
See the updated version of this video linked here in the comments or the description.
What color are the wires for ground and 12 ignition
I need your help :( I used the amp high level input feature instead of a high to low converter. And my passenger front component statics . Even when there no audio and when I turned off my truck stays on for couple seconds .
Sometime the static goes away
IM TRYING TO UPGRADE MY FACTORY SPEAKERS WITH A SMALL AMP USING MY FACTORY RADIO. IS THIS POSSIBLE?
CAN ANYONE HELP ANSWER THIS?
THANKS
Yes, and there is also an updated version of this video (linked in description)
Did you NEED the lc7i for this install?
Awesome video man!! I’m picking up a new to me ‘18 F150 tomorrow and have been into car audio a long time. This was a huge help!! Thanks
Make sure to run a ground all the way to the battery
You don’t need a remote in that’s why it has a gto when you connect the inputs from your hu to the lc7i it generates a remote out to the amp
We ran a remote because every time you would open the door, a signal is generated through the factory radio, kicking on the amplifier if we used the signal sense on the LC7. We ran our own remote turn on wire to gain more control on when the amplifier turns on and off.
Where did you tap to get a remote signal. I'm having the same issues of the amp turning on when you open the doors. Thx!!!
See 17:14
Provo Beast Audio Installation Thank you. The only setting you did was turn off the GTO correct? How was that ground location?
It was good, we didn't have any issue with a ground loop or anything.
Was there any programming required via FORScan for this install?
No
Do u have a video on where the gains are set on the amp and where they are set on the LC7? I have your exact set up just want to know how yours is set up.
Nope, sorry, and we set our gains with an SMD-DD1. This was an install years ago.
Is there an LC7 with equalizer for this trucks? I have a STX 2018.
Your looking for a lcq-1
No need to do all that removal of the stereo along the door jam you can acces the wires you need
You should see the updated version of this video..
From we're did u get the remote signal
bailed when he cut the factory harness... a T Harness is very cheap...
One wasn't available on the market at the time of filming of this video, (2014).
My Lc7 is on the way. I was planning on just pulling the ford speaker wires from the doors and wiring them straight to the Lc7 for both signal and remote turn on and then back to the new speakers from the amp. I noticed in the comments that this would turn on the amp for a sec every time I opened my doors? Don't like that idea so much. Wouldn't adding a remote turn on wire from the fuse box eliminate that problem and keep me from having to mess with the stock head unit like you did? that looked like a serious pain! Would I lose my door chimes if I hooked in after the head unit?
Yep, pros and cons of both. We originally installed this with the LC7's sensory setting and every time the speakers played any audio, it triggered it to turn on. We decided to forgo that method and run a hard line to the fuse box. Try both, its worth a shot. Find what best works for you.
If you wired in a simple switch before you tapped the fuse you could manually control the amp from within the car without the open doors turning it on
Who is this guy?And where is he located? I'm getting the exact truck.just a yr newer. I need mine done.
Best install video ever. thanks brother. I wish you were close by would def bring my truck to you..
lol this was horrible
Last question, did the customer ever mention that the auto start/stop stopped working after the install, or was that already expected? I'm done with my install! Thank you again. I'll have to post a link to my blog once it's up. Most credit going to you. If there's anyway I can promote you or return the favor let me know. God bless.
Eric Sunwoo, did you find any answers about auto start/stop? does that feature affect the sub power?
Ryan Salazar Never received a definitive answer. Though, the auto start/stop started working after driving the truck a while and functions properly now. Not sure why it wasn't working for a little bit there. As far as the sub power being affected. I haven't had any issues. My sub hits hard, but then again I have a little JL 6" micro sub. It hits as hard as it can. Not anything like my 12" in my corolla, but good enough for what I'm looking for.
Thanks for the update.
Eric did you have a hissing sound or even worse the sound of your engine thru the speakers!? If so, how did you fixed it. I fallowed exactly the video.... Heck, even the same Amp, wires and Lc7i.
Seijiro Ikeda yes! I did have the hissing, I ended up taking the truck into a car audio store to get the amps and lc7i tuned. I installed everything, but didn't want to try and tune the sound myself. The tuning was about $60 at my local car audio store. They fixed the excess noise.
Why didnt you just tap into line level on the sub harness behind the rear seats?
Because this truck wasn't equipped with a factory sub.
You stole south main auto music ass.
Great idea for the remote turn on wire. Some idiot audio shop hooked my amp’s remote turn on wire to the ignition circuit. Damn near crashed my truck when the fuse for the ignition circuit (and other electronics) blew out while I was on the highway, truck winded down to a sudden halt and I had just enough momentum to coast off to the side while other cars behind me were whooshed by wondering what the hell I am doing
Thanks for the awsome video...one thing i am wondering is what did you do withthe tweeter wires? and in your descrption you don't talk about their color?
Tweeter lines run in parallel with the front mids. So the same colors. Since we ran the crossovers in the rear, we just ran our own speaker wires to our own tweeters.
Thanks for the reply, in the front at the head unit what did you connect your white 16/4 wire to? which colors?
Did anyone else have a issue with static once it’s all plugged in ? Yes I scraped the paint off the frame for my ground, I’m thinking it’s my input wires they are 18gauge but the insulation doesn’t look as thick as my output wires which I ordered on Amazon, someone also told me that the lc71 needs to be as far as possible from the amps so it won’t pick up the static, any help would be appreciated.
I wish you were local. I just bought a 2018 XLT Crew cab with the sync3 system and nav. I also have a couple of older but barely used fosgate amps. One is 1500 watts that used to power 2 -12" W6's and an 800 watt that did all the rest in a yukon extended I had. I want to get an under the back seat custom box to run those W6's again or a custom box and a couple of 12's or 3 to 4- 10's angled or however they would fit. Then use the 800 watt to do some real mids and front doors and tweeters with a sync3 conversion or whatever you call it. But maybe just maybe somehow or some way use my just as barely used 10 band with sub out kenwood high end EQ. If I couldnt use it I understand. But maybe an app that can run an eq. Or how is that done? I really want this in my new truck badly.
Thank you for this! Own a 2016 FX4 SCrew that I'm planning my build on. This video was a huge help and I'm sure will save me several hours of trial and error.
So glad to help!
macleod1592 i
this is a horrible install. do yourself a favor, go watch 5star car stereo. don't cut factory harness when they make t harness. speed wire so much neater. and the aluminum body ford should have a ground run to battery, not just a body ground
Went to a shop for door speaker and a sub install, but the quote was 900 plus tax. I declined since I felt like that's way too much. Was I wrong to assume that?
If you're running a dsp? Do you need to use a lc7? Can you get full signal from just the front doors or do you need the rear door as well?
Provo Beast Audio Installation any issues with grounding the amp on the back wall since most of the new trucks are aluminum body? See video around 4:12..... Would it be better to ground back to the battery or another location?
Hi, so where the speaker output (wires) are is at the bottom unit where the CD player is ? Not the top unit, where the touch screen is?
Yep at the main radio harness, not at the screen
@@ProvoBeastAudio Thanks s lot for your help! I could figure it out because the color chart mention white/orange, white/green,etc but in my truck all the WHITES are YELLOW now! 🤦🏻♂️But I think I got it from here! Just need to run the cable from amp and reconnect!👍🏼
Thanks for the wiring diagram. Used it to setup my own speakers. Didn't work at first and I couldn't figure out why, then I realized that I tapped the speakers wrong. I have the output/input wiring mixed. I'm amplifying zero signal lol. FML. Thanks for the vid though! This is a good tool for anyone running a 4" or 8" Ford F-150 stereo regardless of whether it's the 6 or 7 speaker system (as long as it's not the Sony system, in which case... good luck with that crap!).
This video helped me tremendously when I installed my setup in Legend. Thank you. I’m a new subscriber. Thumbs up.
After my amp install my door chimes seat belt chime and backup sensors are very loud. I know PAC makes a adapter but only for the Sony factory system. The only thing I can do is turn my gains down, then the system is to quiet... any suggestions?
Is there any way to amp the 5th center speaker with that amp? Wouldnt it be better to disconnect the 5th speaker if you weren't planning to amp it cause everytime you crank it up that distortion would be pretty obvious and make the whole system sound worse.
Hey man, i have a 2016 3.5 ecoboost f150 and my wire colors are not the same as you have listed and the harness at the rear of the stereo is different aswell. Do you know anything about this or have anyonfo that can help?
So you ran new speaker wire into the doors also? If so, why even connect the output wires from your loop back for those behind the head unit?
Even tried connecting highinput connection dedicated to the factory OEM. ground to the battery terminal ..its only when I close all the doors, if I keep open any of the door it's work properly..
With the lc2 speaker and power connecters, how do you get the wires to stay in place ? No matter how tight i try to screw them they seem to not stay secure and move while driving. Is there a trick to those connections?
I installed a loc and 2 amps in a 2016 f150, bluetooth music works fine but my bluetooth calls only come through the center channel. Any idea what the issue is or how I can fix it?
I have a 2013 f150 with the sony system. Right now im planning on keeping the factory subwoofer. What if anything do i need to do different to add an amp to run the after market door speakers and tweeters while keeping the factory sub. Dont really want to remove the center console to get to the factory sony amp. If this makes sense. If i can do just like you did in this video how did you do the subwoofer wire from the factory wires. Do i have to mess with the factory amp or can i wire up the aftermarket speakers like you did behind the radio. Also i have aftermarket tweeters. Will i need a crossover to run to these or can i tap into the factory wires and not have these hooked to the amp.
Does it make a hugh difference that the factory speaker wires are so much smaller than the wires you are putting in?
It's ford everest 2017 name changed in india as endeavour.. It's comes with sync3 infotainment.. if any of the doors opened infotainment turns on...
That is a ratty install...
In regards to the remote wire tapped into the inverter fuse; to turn the system on, the key needs to be in the ignition correct? This wouldn’t work with the key out of the ignition and turning the radio on with pressing the power button on volume knob would it?
Did the pioneer 10 sub fit behind the back seat? Could you still fold up without a problem?
Why not grab the signal from behind the rear seat? PAC makes a plug and play adapter for the harness back there.
I found it at the end sorry
Good video... so what's powering your center channel? Just factory head unit?
Factory radio powering the center channel, i kept that intact.
Provo Beast Audio Installation how did u get signal for the sub? for channel 3
I just took a jumper speaker wire about 3" long on the line out converter and connected channel 2 and 3 together.
Can you get the fake v8 sound disable? I have a system already but these guy have. I idea how to fix that
I offer a complete harness that will do this install with no wire cutting and includes all wiring for your lc7i or dsp .
how much?
Did you mount the amp directly to vehicle with screws or did you make some kind of mount for it.
Did you hook up the mid/front door speakers to the crossover in the rear also through the factory speaker wire?
Can I tap into the rear speaker wires at the rear door instead of behind the head unit to just add my amp for a sub only? Any reason why I should not do that?
I may have missed it but what do you use for the remote in on the lc7?
Quick question... I wanted to I stall a 5 channel Amp to run my doors and a sub as well but do not want to use the line converter.. If the Amp I am using has high level inputs can I wire it directly from the radio outputs like you did and not use a line lever converter??? I'm pretty sure I can but just wanted to double check.. Thanks
did it had a stock amplifier
No, it did not have the factory Sony system.
I hate fuses circuit breaker fuses are better if it trips you just reset it you don't got to go buy a new fuse
Hey dud nice video but ?? Where is the factory amp for the speakers
usually behind the rear seats on the floor, or within the center console.
Sorry if I missed it but where did you mount your bass knob? Having a hard time deciding on a location for it.
I have 2 questions. Did the factory chimes get amplified and are now super loud? Also did you end up having to use Accubass on that lc7i or is the HU clean enough to not have roll off?
Hi, What leg of fuse did you wrap the wire? Our store doesnt have the micro tap circuit so I have to wrap it. I just dont know if any leg will matter. Your reply would be really helpful. Thank you
What do you mean by a wire wrap?
I got it now. I followed your step hought the same equipments but im getting a static noise even my stereo is off any advise? Thank you
Check your grounds, ensure you have good quality RCA cables.
Grounds are solid. Same place you put removed the paint. I bought new Patch RCA but still same. I have static noise and Thump/Pop sound when I open the door. Any suggestion? Thank you!
It could be the quality of your components, or line out converter.
Mine doesn't have a CD player...time to go fishing for speaking connectors 🤦♂️
i didnt think it would be a good idea to ground it to the aluminum body?
Wich wire are the power coming from you turn the switch?
Shouldn’t Ran The Remote Wire To The Radio Fuse
Did not sound any better than stalk.🤔🤔🤔🤔😠😠😠
Bet this sounds much better over stock with the extra power!
I have a 2011 Raptor with the sony sub so I will be looking back at this video and order up a 5ch amp for my truck..
thanks for posting
Did you end up building a sub box behind the rear seats? I’d like to do that but wasn’t sure if they would sound good back there. Thanks for the video.