I've been porting heads for 2 decades, and I've been slowly refining my technique ...I just got in a set of various length Arbors & I have a few rolls of Sandpaper in grits 60 to 120 in stages. I would like to know how you put together your Sandpaper with the Arbor ...I've always used the Porting kits with the pre-rolled drums ...but they're so expensive, and you end up not being able to use most of the sandpaper. Thanks for these great uploads! I'm actually in the middle of working on a D16 head this week.
I use a blank drill bit (get the ones that hasn’t been machined for the blades) cut a slit on the tip about 1/2 inch deep and that anchors the 80-120 grit and I just cut a 1in wide 6in long strip and roll it at the end of the shaft where the slit is and just hold it down with 1/2 masking tape at the base of it to secure it… This lets me buy meters of 80grit and 120grit I can just cut accordingly
I been watching your tutorials and just got done cleaning up my Z6 head…I preemptively cleaned up the combustion chamber to soften the edges, no having seen it in any of your other videos and was worried I was going to mess things up. I ended up doing a high polish on the exhaust side mainly for aesthetics due to my OCD and then I ended up doing a full valve lapping to ensure a good seal on the valves… I still haven’t assembled the engine but I wanted to send some pics or video to get your opinion on the job I’ve done this far, is there an email or link I could send the pics/video too? I’m also in the member area as well BTW…
Yes sir it’s why I realized this video has to show a lot more on the chamber stuff and you worded it correct “to soften the edges” both my IG and FB shop page I frequently check we can extend conversation and share pics there easier
Do you leave the valve guides in the D16 head because they're really shallow and don't protrude much into the bowls? What shape carbide burr do you use when shaping the head? Are switching out burrs for certain areas?
on this one the oem guides stayed cuz it was within spec and plus as u mentioned specifically on the z6/p08 they don’t protrude as much… the carbide I use is just the tree shaped carbide the cone shaped sanding rolls help a lot too
Sir ask ko lang. Nagpapalit ako ng water pump and pina-adjust ko na rin yung tensioner. (p2j 20 cam lobes and tuned na rin) Ang problema ngayon hindi ramdam yung vtec at ang pangit ng idle Bago ko pinapalitan ok naman possible kaya na mali yung timing? Thanks po, More power.
That’s not how you port heads… u can keep it almost the same but over port on the bowl and throat and it will still be over ported But almost same mm entry and exhaust
I don’t know, I don’t look at it that way ,,. U measure the cross sectional area of the port entry and u can tell if it’s already ok or need to be bigger Most of the time on our Hondas the cross sectional area is already okay na… unless u rev to 10k rpm
Example 30mm intake valve with 89% throat that’s 26.7mm Add 1mm to that throat and it’s 27.7mm That’s already 92.3% ! “Sungaw na” throat is somewhere before the valve seat fyi
What do you mean? Power wise? this does over 150whp on pump gas on a street car with a muffler… if you saw the earlier (older design) on turbo it already goes way over 500whp without reaching 2bar
@@SRDmotorsports i have a standard d16z9 which had a revision 30k km ago, so it's like new. Only thing i do have at the moment is an k&n airfilter. If I would let a company port the head would it make any sense? I am planning to do the entire exhaust, maybe replace both manifolds. Also not sure if the ecu needs to be chipped for this all to work properly.. sorry for all the questions but thanks for taking the time for your viewers, you are amazing 🏆
I think for now u can jump to a k&n filter only and try to get a rechipped ecu for tuning this way when u do the exhaust u can see improvements real good before going for the head porting Because this head also needs a good intake an exhaust and tuning on the rechipped ecu so that can be done first that’s a better step
Sharing some notes from Darin for discussion, not the hard and fast rule but a general guideline: 86% = Excellent average power and throttle response. 87% = Adds a little more top end power. 88% = Best over all power band! 89% = (Critical Max) Only use for 550" lift or higher camshaft 90% = You're in trouble, unless your max lift is .600 or higher. 91% = Loss of low end TQ and throttle response. 91.5% = Significant power loss throughout the power band!
Engine Build Key Details in Making Good Power is here
th-cam.com/video/t0tPN9mbcIU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=sHFvAv6KBpysQhNb
This video is really helping with my university project, thanks!!
@@fazesalv8707 good luck on the project
@@SRDmotorsports thanks man 👍
yup
Great video great work perfect tutorial couldn't be any better
Oh thank you my friend :) glad u found this one good 😎
Man that head came out beautiful bro, love watching the process of this, its gonna make some healthy gains
Oh yes for sure! 😎
I've been porting heads for 2 decades, and I've been slowly refining my technique ...I just got in a set of various length Arbors & I have a few rolls of Sandpaper in grits 60 to 120 in stages. I would like to know how you put together your Sandpaper with the Arbor ...I've always used the Porting kits with the pre-rolled drums ...but they're so expensive, and you end up not being able to use most of the sandpaper. Thanks for these great uploads! I'm actually in the middle of working on a D16 head this week.
I use a blank drill bit (get the ones that hasn’t been machined for the blades)
cut a slit on the tip about 1/2 inch deep and that anchors the 80-120 grit and I just cut a 1in wide 6in long strip and roll it at the end of the shaft where the slit is and just hold it down with 1/2 masking tape at the base of it to secure it…
This lets me buy meters of 80grit and 120grit I can just cut accordingly
@@SRDmotorsports Thanks for your response! I will take your advice when I get my tool up and running!
No problem man glad to be of help 🎩
A+ bowl work 👍🏾
Maaaaaan def know I could trust those sharp eyes 😎 heck out of everyone it was only you that noticed the “oil retention” on the hone finish hehehe
Which head flows best overall for turbocharging? Is the VTEC head worth swapping in or are the Y heads good enough with the right amount of work done?
most heads will work good and fine
I been watching your tutorials and just got done cleaning up my Z6 head…I preemptively cleaned up the combustion chamber to soften the edges, no having seen it in any of your other videos and was worried I was going to mess things up. I ended up doing a high polish on the exhaust side mainly for aesthetics due to my OCD and then I ended up doing a full valve lapping to ensure a good seal on the valves… I still haven’t assembled the engine but I wanted to send some pics or video to get your opinion on the job I’ve done this far, is there an email or link I could send the pics/video too?
I’m also in the member area as well BTW…
Yes sir it’s why I realized this video has to show a lot more on the chamber stuff and you worded it correct “to soften the edges”
both my IG and FB shop page I frequently check we can extend conversation and share pics there easier
Do you leave the valve guides in the D16 head because they're really shallow and don't protrude much into the bowls?
What shape carbide burr do you use when shaping the head? Are switching out burrs for certain areas?
on this one the oem guides stayed cuz it was within spec and plus as u mentioned specifically on the z6/p08 they don’t protrude as much…
the carbide I use is just the tree shaped carbide
the cone shaped sanding rolls help a lot too
Sir ask ko lang.
Nagpapalit ako ng water pump and pina-adjust ko na rin yung tensioner.
(p2j 20 cam lobes and tuned na rin)
Ang problema ngayon hindi ramdam yung vtec at ang pangit ng idle
Bago ko pinapalitan ok naman
possible kaya na mali yung timing?
Thanks po, More power.
Yes un lang possible reason kase aalisin belt to install water pump
at 13:20 you grit the intake bowl at 120 grit for the last inch, why?
makes it look cleaner
@@SRDmotorsports does it effect performance at all?
yes
@@SRDmotorsports how does it? doesn’t smoother port = less atomisation of the fuel and more turbulence creating carbon build up on the vavles?
it’s a fuel injected car so no need for carburetor approach
You can go rougher if you want that’s no problem
how many in Mm adjustment port in exhaust and intake..
That’s not how you port heads… u can keep it almost the same but over port on the bowl and throat and it will still be over ported
But almost same mm entry and exhaust
@@SRDmotorsports it is advisable for 0.5mm valve troat and less 1mm porting for exhaust and intake ?
I don’t know, I don’t look at it that way ,,. U measure the cross sectional area of the port entry and u can tell if it’s already ok or need to be bigger
Most of the time on our Hondas the cross sectional area is already okay na…
unless u rev to 10k rpm
Example 30mm intake valve with 89% throat that’s 26.7mm
Add 1mm to that throat and it’s 27.7mm
That’s already 92.3% ! “Sungaw na”
throat is somewhere before the valve seat fyi
how much would this deliver on a d16z9?
What do you mean? Power wise?
this does over 150whp on pump gas on a street car with a muffler…
if you saw the earlier (older design) on turbo it already goes way over 500whp without reaching 2bar
@@SRDmotorsports i have a standard d16z9 which had a revision 30k km ago, so it's like new. Only thing i do have at the moment is an k&n airfilter. If I would let a company port the head would it make any sense? I am planning to do the entire exhaust, maybe replace both manifolds. Also not sure if the ecu needs to be chipped for this all to work properly.. sorry for all the questions but thanks for taking the time for your viewers, you are amazing 🏆
I think for now u can jump to a k&n filter only and try to get a rechipped ecu for tuning this way when u do the exhaust u can see improvements real good before going for the head porting
Because this head also needs a good intake an exhaust and tuning on the rechipped ecu so that can be done first that’s a better step
Curious what your throat percentage is, if y’all don’t mind sharing…
Usually it’s
For street application : 88-89%
All out race application : 90-91%
but
I’ve done quite a few street stuff with 91% throat, granted it had a ported skunk2 intake
and cam, worked quite good
Sharing some notes from Darin for discussion, not the hard and fast rule but a general guideline:
86% = Excellent average power and throttle response.
87% = Adds a little more top end power.
88% = Best over all power band!
89% = (Critical Max) Only use for 550" lift or higher camshaft
90% = You're in trouble, unless your max lift is .600 or higher.
91% = Loss of low end TQ and throttle response.
91.5% = Significant power loss throughout the power band!
@@findtherightbeat good stuff right there 😎