I bought a 94 F150 and had the window get stuck. Went to fix it like this video shows - turns out the previous owner had already done the fix (dimples were drilled out) using nuts to replace the broken plastic. Turns out one of the nuts had shifted and jammed the gear. Replaced the nuts with J.B. weld and it worked like a charm. Thanks for this video!
Funny how that works cuz I said the same thing about that ridiculous Chevy 2500 I used to own. I loved that engine and that smooth transmission but man I hated everything else about that truck! I'd fix one thing and 5 others would break. Then I'd get them fixed and something else would go. Never had that trouble with my Ford trucks.
Dunno man, I have a 74 Mercury Comet (profile pic) that never put me down out on the road. I had a few component failures over the years but I always made it home as long as I had a 1/4 inch, flat, long screwdriver, kept it under the seat for the duration of owing that car. Always made it to my driveway, might have to replace a part to get *out* of my driveway but I *always* made it home. I even used that flathead to put an alternator belt on it one time, mine broke, I had my old belt in the trunk (always kept the old belt as a spare for just such occasion) and I managed to put a belt on it with only a flathead screwdriver. Plenty of busted, bleeding knuckles and it squealed like mad but I made it home... Power steering line busted, I used a pencil, a fuel hose clamp and that trusty flathead to plug the line so I could make it home without burning up the pump. The power steering belt also ran the water pump so I couldn't just pull the belt. I've since removed the entire power steering assembly and changed the belt routing.
Greetings from along the 45th parallel 1995 F-150, driver door window repair. Did all that drilling etc. Only dropped one bolt. Retrieved with a magnet and God's help. Opened the motor assy etc. and cleaned everything. I used a jeweler's screwdriver and a fine-point gasket pic to remove the keeper on the shaft. On the reinstall, I dabbed the socket with superglue gel, set in the stud, let it set for five then installed the studs easy peazy. By the time I got to number three, almost didn't need any glue. For the control repair, I mixed up some epoxy and glued two small hex nuts into each cavity. The window goes down and up! I am thankful to you and your ideas for repair. Thank you. BTW, I like the looks of your ride!
Thank you Ford for providing the dimples to drill out to a final hole size of 1/2”. WAY easier then disassembling the entire window assembly. (I guess this was done in anticipation of “planned obsolescence” part failure). At 9:20 what has broken was a plastic spacer between the plastic gear (that fits the worm gear on the motor) and the metal sprocket that rolls up the window. This part is nor any longer available from Ford. Ya can't afford it if it were. (Seems I asked years ago and the repair was hundreds but NA now)... My F250 has had both motors replaced by someone prior to me repairing them both again today. 11:27 LOL I used JB Weld too and it works well. Dry's over night (24hr) and fixed both windows for $10. (Don't use JB Weld Quick. Use the 24 hr formula). 13:50 Snap-ring holds the gear down. One of my windows didn't have one, the other did. Still works, but should put it on to maybe save another trip of getting this all apart again. BTW, if you remove the speaker you will have better access for reinstalling the motor. To make sure the sprocket is in place properly. Don't totally tighten down the screws until you tap the up/down button to see if it works. One of mine was riding on top of the device it fits in and snapped down into place. Then I finished tightening down the screws. My biggest hassle was getting the door knob through the hole / fighting it with the door cover when reinstalling it. *Note: When putting the screws back installing the motor, put a dash of grease on the heads of the nuts which kinda glues them to the socket to keep from dropping them into the bottom of the door. Old mechanics trick learned years ago...
Thank you for your service! I searched for this type diagnosis and related repair this morning and within 1 hr after your video my window was working perfectly. My tabs where broken, I welded them with the soldering iron and while I was at it I remelted the plastic rivets in attempt to tighten everything up and I'll be dam, it worked like a charm! Thanks again! 1995 F-150 2wd extended cab xlt
Thanks your video. It helped me fix mine without having to buy a new motor. I pulled mine apart and found the plastic pieces were destroyed like yours were but mine was packed with grease. We cleared out all the broken plastic and the motor would still not run. So we took the motor apart and reseated the brushes inside and it started working. So we put in the nuts like you did and now my window on the passenger side works for the first time in over 10 years. I got this truck from my dad after he passed away and needed to replace the weather stripping but before I could do that I had to fix the window in order to get that done.
The plastic bushings inside the gear are suppose to be a saftey mechanism, so if you get something stuck in the window the bushings are to break apart before the window itself.
Id like to thank you for your video my wife has the 1995 in the brightest sapphire color i had to fix her window motor inside door handle broke off and door pins. Made for a fun day.
Wow, thank you! I purchased a driver-side motor and low and behold both my rear windows stopped working. I found your video and used the nuts to fix it. Bam, just like that it worked. Thank you!
Just performed this repair...the nylon cylinders were available at O'Reilly's auto parts in a plastic clamshell hanging in with the emergency repair parts. They were $8.99 for 3 and needed to be modified by sanding one side of each cylinder flat until they fit.
You are a good man! Thank you SO much for making this vid! Without it, would have had to take to a $hop 'cause I would've had no idea how to fix my window. Even though there's only 58K miles on my '93 (yea, really), that plastic inside the motor had crumbled. Your hex nut idea worked. I dropped that bottom screw twice, so I stuck it to my nutdriver with a tiny bit of Elmers. The man of the house is impressed that Ms Fixit has done it again, lol.
My '94 Bronco developed this exact issue about a week after I got it. This video covered everything I needed to know to fix the problem, and my window is functional for the first time in like six months!
Thank you for this video! Took the motor out which ran fine! Took it apart, clean out all that plastic junk, replaced it with 3 small nuts and put it back together! Works like a new one! Free!
1/2 bit and 18v drill to drill the dimples - easy. 1/4 inch hex nuts to fill the three slots where the plastic had crumbled. Its easiest to set the gear halfway on the mount then slip the 1/4 hex nuts into the slots - easy. I used two small nails to separate and remove the slip ring (do this inside an old amazon box to if you are worried about loosing the ring) - easy I did break one of the weather stripping clips because I wasn't gentle in removing the door panel over the door lock. After that, I slowed down....didn't loose a screw in the bottom of the door!
Just did this job early in the week with the help of your video the hardest and most time consuming part was fishing out one of the motor screws that fell inside and neatly hid behind some of the curved sheet metal. It looked just like yours when I opened it up but I used a repair kit from Amazon to replace wore out parts odd that AC Delco makes it but for around $15 you get everything you need for replacement for one door. Here is the listing if anyone is interested............ ACDelco 11P2 Professional Front Power Window Motor Pinion Gear Kit with Cover Plate and Grease Thanks for the video it was a big help!
I love this truck design! I plan to get a white one just like this one but to live in. Put a top over the bed. Add some lights, curtains, dark tinted windows. It's my dream vehicle basically.
Awesome. Both my drivers side and passenger windows do that on my 1990. It got to the point that i had to pull the trim panel off and leave to get the window up. In a truck that doesn't have working ac, there was no way i was going to drive with the windows up during the middle of summer in kansas.
Thanks Fox...My 95 xlt passenger side motor had same crumbled yellow crud. Works great now. You werent kidding bout how small snap ring is! Got ring off by carefully using 2 of my more pointy drill bits one in each hole and rocking it back n forth 90 degrees to shaft . May need to bend them tighter after reinstall them into their groove. I assume they are there to keep gear from walking off shaft over time? Thanks again!
Hey so I have a 1992 Ford F-150 4x4 that needed extensive work we I’d say are about half way and I have finally gotten to the window motor on the right side I pulled the fuse driver side stopped working so I believe it’s the motor because I hear clicking from the switch like it’s supplying power but you helped me find the holes that needed to drill so thanks. Also a tip from my dad (I’m 17) believe it or not “Just pick up a tool and do it”
Good job do it yourselfer I enjoy working on my old Ford truck too I got a 1994 f250 super duty nice place you have there too wish I had a place like yours keep up the good work
YOU KNOW IN THIS POLITICAL SEASON WITH ALL OF US GOING CRAZY! YOU ARE WHAT WE ALL NEED TO SEE JUST A AMERICAN GETTING DONE WHATS NEED TO BE DONE! THANK YOU FOR REMINDING ME WHO WE REALLY ARE!
Glad ya got it fix man, I just swapped my old panels for some out of a 92 along with a better bench seat, mines coming along rather nice, keep up the good work, more from The Rat Shack coming soon ✌✌✌🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Worked for me, I was a dumbass trying to pull out the front piece lol. And for me the metal cover on the motor was crimped on two edges and didn't come off so easy I had to uncrimp them. I didn't have pliers for the snap ring I used my volt meter and used the ground and positive needles to spread it lol. Hope my experience helps further his video!
I have a 1992 Ford F150 that my father bought brand new so I am the second owner. I like this truck, especially the 4.9L 6, but this was not Ford's finest hour. It has a lot of design flaws but it is 29 years old and still going.
Just an FYI if anybody's looking for the actual part(s) doing an Amazon search. These fit my 1995 F-350: Plugs only: DORMAN 74410 Window Regulator Gear Plug, Pack of 3 Gear and plugs kit: Dorman 747-409 Power Window Motor Gear for Select Models --New subscriber
If clicking... Can you help it up and down with your hands?...'these trucks aren't bed lol.. May bed to last be lubed up.. where the window slides up and down, the window mechanism stuff.. Might be just full of gunk
This is a clutch mechanism. The balls compress and let the rack and pinion turn, if the window hits an object. If the plastic clutch balls are replaced with steel or JB weld, the window motor could strip the helical teeth underneath and/or pinch someone's neck to the point of suffocation. This is safety stuff. Be careful , you'll shoot your eye out.....
Been meaning to fix that darn window for a long time. I never use it by myself, but seems whenever someone else gets it ends up being rolled down for whatever reason LOL! Yeah, 3000 subs... onward and upward! (I hope)...
@@TheFoxShop 16,800K Subscribers as of 12/13/2019 Way to go!!!! Thank you so much for working on OBS Ford F-150 Trucks. I have learned a lot from your video's. I haven't put much to use yet do to lack of work area and some confidence issues. At least I can keep a laptop next to me as I attempt to do some work on my '93 F-150.
If you want a permanent fix you could probably use roller bearings, but I think the factory ones are for safety incase someone gets a body part in the way of the window going up.
Really liked the video, but this seems to be the procedure for the front window. I have a 4 door and it's my driver's side rear window that's having the problem. I got everything down to drilling holes in the dimples, but there are no dimples in the door panels in the rear. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
i got a mystery for yall. i just did this fix, got inside the gearbox and to my dismay there were already nuts in place of the plastic rollers. so somebody beat me to it, BUT, i drilled the holes to get the motor out. how did the previous person get the window motor out??
I have a 1994 F150 XLT 4x4 with 225k miles and my window won’t go up?? Just watching your video to see if I can fix it? Maybe I can do it with the help of your video! Thanks, we will see!?
DYTCH72 you can also put ball bearings or small hex nuts in the slots to hold the metal gear so that it will spin when the motor is turned on it works I did mine today and the plastic gears were shredded like in this video but now my window is functioning great
@@alex_king3271 i dono it worked for me and mine didnt even move at all but now it works great still works today cheap and easy fix other then taking the window motor out
Thank you so much for this awesome vid... you just saved me $50.. mine was doing the exact same thing.. I used JB Stick to fix it... a lot easier and quicker setup time... thanks again!
ive got a 1996 f150 the passenger window does nothing. through either switch no noise at all drivers side window works fine. the passenger switch is a little sticky and doesnt seem right. ive replaced switches on a 94 i had. what are the odds its just a switch if theres no noise not even the little clicking when you try and engage the switch
Having this same issue with my son't Mercury Mountaineer...... Will be doing this surgery later today, it appears. Thanks for takin' the time to share!..........Update........ Ugh....... Mine looks nothing like that....... It's got wire cable wrapped around a bobbin looking thing..... Fuckin' engineers!!!!
Thank You, for your information. I'm new to car fixing stuff. Does the snap ring have to come off to get the gunk and gear out? Also how do I get it off? I'm going to try keeping the unit in a gallon zip lock so it does not go flying. Also what kind of grease should I place inside with the replacement plastic things?
They rivet the window motor in, so you have to drill those out and replace them with screws with nuts on them. You can buy the rollers that go inside of that window motor to fix it but that doesn't always fix it.
Window lift repair kit on Amazon for about 21 bucks. Replacement motor is about 45. PS the kit I bought didn't come with the c-clip so try not to lose that thing, cuz that's a trip to Home Depot and that takes more time than the window lift motor cost.
Had issues trying to view the video earlier today but I was able to watch it just now. Very interesting to know it's that easy to fix the motor like that. I wish my truck had power windows. I do have a question for you though, I had to have door keys made for my truck and the keys that were made work great in the drivers side door but both keys get stuck in the passenger door and you have to jiggle the key like crazy to get it out. I've sprayed lock de-icer in the key hole as well as wd40 and the keys still stick. Any suggestions on why the lock cylinder is doing that?
The original keys were lost and the new keys were made when I bought the truck. So I don't know if the original keys were the same way when locking/unlocking the passenger door.
hard to tell... the originals may have been like that too, or the ones you had made...might be one of the teeth needs ground down a tad or something but if it works fine elsewhere..I dunno, Will probably get better over time as the keys start to wear down a little
The door keys are different than the ignition keys. From what I was told they made the door keys by removing the lock cylinder on the drivers door. The 2 keys that were cut work great in the drivers door but stuck in the passenger door. As I mentioned I've used wd40 and nothing's helped.
Kyle Krause Where did you go to get your keys made? My locks work on both doors but I haven't had keys to lock the doors from the outside since I've bought the truck
Not quite sure why you went about it that way. Those plastic buttons are dirt cheap, I picked up a box of 100 on Amazon for less than $8. Probably about the same price as you spent attempting to use JB weld. Simple repair, I've done literally hundreds over my career.
hey there would be able to know why my front tires a facing inwards like there bent real bad the top tire sticks in to the top fender well. why do think is that
Not 100% sure... possibly worn out bushings or something or may just need a front end alignment. Best bet would be to take it to a reputable alignment shop and have them do an alignment They will let you know if anything else is worn out.
What did you drill out the door with? My largest metal drill bit is 3/8 inch, which is too small for the nut driver to fit, and the hole doesn't line up exactly with the motor bolts. Need a bigger hole, but don't know what to use. Suggestions anyone?
Just measured the head on my 10mm but driver, seems to bed right at 3/8"... I'm not sure what size bit I used, seems 1/2" should work... Guessing that's what I used or you could go even larger, not gonna hurt anything.
Just a FYI that is the same time period when evil garage doors and all automatic windows had to incorporate a life saving saftey break so you couldn't strangle your kid "accidentally" in a window. This is designed to break under pressure and "save lives".
The "fillers" are BREAK aways IF your kid stuffs his head in the window as you close the window you dont kill em..... some guys have used nuts in the void space the nubs are available as is the white gear .... Its common now that they are 20 plus ... Its easy Using a small flat screwdriver you can get under the snap ring but hold it with plyers
I bought a 94 F150 and had the window get stuck. Went to fix it like this video shows - turns out the previous owner had already done the fix (dimples were drilled out) using nuts to replace the broken plastic. Turns out one of the nuts had shifted and jammed the gear. Replaced the nuts with J.B. weld and it worked like a charm. Thanks for this video!
I'll be damned. I pulled it off. Fixing something on a Ford for free is almost like a faith healing. Much obliged, friend.
Funny how that works cuz I said the same thing about that ridiculous Chevy 2500 I used to own. I loved that engine and that smooth transmission but man I hated everything else about that truck! I'd fix one thing and 5 others would break. Then I'd get them fixed and something else would go. Never had that trouble with my Ford trucks.
Dunno man, I have a 74 Mercury Comet (profile pic) that never put me down out on the road. I had a few component failures over the years but I always made it home as long as I had a 1/4 inch, flat, long screwdriver, kept it under the seat for the duration of owing that car.
Always made it to my driveway, might have to replace a part to get *out* of my driveway but I *always* made it home.
I even used that flathead to put an alternator belt on it one time, mine broke, I had my old belt in the trunk (always kept the old belt as a spare for just such occasion) and I managed to put a belt on it with only a flathead screwdriver. Plenty of busted, bleeding knuckles and it squealed like mad but I made it home...
Power steering line busted, I used a pencil, a fuel hose clamp and that trusty flathead to plug the line so I could make it home without burning up the pump. The power steering belt also ran the water pump so I couldn't just pull the belt. I've since removed the entire power steering assembly and changed the belt routing.
@@glenwaldrop8166 pm
Greetings from along the 45th parallel
1995 F-150, driver door window repair. Did all that drilling etc. Only dropped one bolt. Retrieved with a magnet and God's help. Opened the motor assy etc. and cleaned everything. I used a jeweler's screwdriver and a fine-point gasket pic to remove the keeper on the shaft. On the reinstall, I dabbed the socket with superglue gel, set in the stud, let it set for five then installed the studs easy peazy. By the time I got to number three, almost didn't need any glue. For the control repair, I mixed up some epoxy and glued two small hex nuts into each cavity. The window goes down and up! I am thankful to you and your ideas for repair. Thank you. BTW, I like the looks of your ride!
Thank you Ford for providing the dimples to drill out to a final hole size of 1/2”. WAY easier then disassembling the entire window assembly. (I guess this was done in anticipation of “planned obsolescence” part failure).
At 9:20 what has broken was a plastic spacer between the plastic gear (that fits the worm gear on the motor) and the metal sprocket that rolls up the window. This part is nor any longer available from Ford. Ya can't afford it if it were. (Seems I asked years ago and the repair was hundreds but NA now)... My F250 has had both motors replaced by someone prior to me repairing them both again today. 11:27 LOL I used JB Weld too and it works well. Dry's over night (24hr) and fixed both windows for $10. (Don't use JB Weld Quick. Use the 24 hr formula). 13:50 Snap-ring holds the gear down. One of my windows didn't have one, the other did. Still works, but should put it on to maybe save another trip of getting this all apart again. BTW, if you remove the speaker you will have better access for reinstalling the motor. To make sure the sprocket is in place properly. Don't totally tighten down the screws until you tap the up/down button to see if it works. One of mine was riding on top of the device it fits in and snapped down into place. Then I finished tightening down the screws. My biggest hassle was getting the door knob through the hole / fighting it with the door cover when reinstalling it.
*Note: When putting the screws back installing the motor, put a dash of grease on the heads of the nuts which kinda glues them to the socket to keep from dropping them into the bottom of the door. Old mechanics trick learned years ago...
Thank you. I am ordering a motor today. I would never have figured out to drill some holes had I not seen your video.
Thank you for your service! I searched for this type diagnosis and related repair this morning and within 1 hr after your video my window was working perfectly. My tabs where broken, I welded them with the soldering iron and while I was at it I remelted the plastic rivets in attempt to tighten everything up and I'll be dam, it worked like a charm! Thanks again! 1995 F-150 2wd extended cab xlt
These ‘90’s Fords are such good trucks. I miss my ‘94 so much. Had a 5.8 in it and 375K on the original drive train. Wasn’t even tired.
Got a red ‘95 5.8 just hit 100k today. Hope to make it up to your mileage!!
Thanks your video. It helped me fix mine without having to buy a new motor. I pulled mine apart and found the plastic pieces were destroyed like yours were but mine was packed with grease. We cleared out all the broken plastic and the motor would still not run. So we took the motor apart and reseated the brushes inside and it started working. So we put in the nuts like you did and now my window on the passenger side works for the first time in over 10 years. I got this truck from my dad after he passed away and needed to replace the weather stripping but before I could do that I had to fix the window in order to get that done.
Thank you sir! I bought a new motor. Took me 45 minutes to replace my window motor (1994 F150 XLT), the video is much appreciated.
The plastic bushings inside the gear are suppose to be a saftey mechanism, so if you get something stuck in the window the bushings are to break apart before the window itself.
Id like to thank you for your video my wife has the 1995 in the brightest sapphire color i had to fix her window motor inside door handle broke off and door pins. Made for a fun day.
Wow, thank you! I purchased a driver-side motor and low and behold both my rear windows stopped working. I found your video and used the nuts to fix it. Bam, just like that it worked. Thank you!
Just performed this repair...the nylon cylinders were available at O'Reilly's auto parts in a plastic clamshell hanging in with the emergency repair parts. They were $8.99 for 3 and needed to be modified by sanding one side of each cylinder flat until they fit.
You are a good man! Thank you SO much for making this vid! Without it, would have had to take to a $hop 'cause I would've had no idea how to fix my window. Even though there's only 58K miles on my '93 (yea, really), that plastic inside the motor had crumbled. Your hex nut idea worked. I dropped that bottom screw twice, so I stuck it to my nutdriver with a tiny bit of Elmers. The man of the house is impressed that Ms Fixit has done it again, lol.
replacement gear and bushing set is available from jeff's bronco graveyard
This video really helped, it's the only one that answered my question, why both my windows motors work with help but not by itself.
My '94 Bronco developed this exact issue about a week after I got it. This video covered everything I needed to know to fix the problem, and my window is functional for the first time in like six months!
Glad it helped ya out!!
Thank you for this video! Took the motor out which ran fine! Took it apart, clean out all that plastic junk, replaced it with 3 small nuts and put it back together! Works like a new one! Free!
tom wagaman what size did you use?
Used 3 oddballs! You will see what fits in there when you take it apart.
1/2 bit and 18v drill to drill the dimples - easy.
1/4 inch hex nuts to fill the three slots where the plastic had crumbled. Its easiest to set the gear halfway on the mount then slip the 1/4 hex nuts into the slots - easy.
I used two small nails to separate and remove the slip ring (do this inside an old amazon box to if you are worried about loosing the ring) - easy
I did break one of the weather stripping clips because I wasn't gentle in removing the door panel over the door lock. After that, I slowed down....didn't loose a screw in the bottom of the door!
Just did this job early in the week with the help of your video the hardest and most time consuming part was fishing out one of the motor screws that fell inside and neatly hid behind some of the curved sheet metal. It looked just like yours when I opened it up but I used a repair kit from Amazon to replace wore out parts odd that AC Delco makes it but for around $15 you get everything you need for replacement for one door. Here is the listing if anyone is interested............
ACDelco 11P2 Professional Front Power Window Motor Pinion Gear Kit with Cover Plate and Grease
Thanks for the video it was a big help!
Just bought my first f150 of this platform and both windows are DOA. Going to look into this! Great video!
Thanks Fox, I have a 95 F150 and this is exactly what it is doing. Hello from Alabama
Three cut offs of high temp hot melt glue stick work great. The big 7/16 inch size cut 7/16 inch long.
Exactly what I needed to know to tackle what looked like an impossible task! Thank you!
I love this truck design! I plan to get a white one just like this one but to live in. Put a top over the bed. Add some lights, curtains, dark tinted windows. It's my dream vehicle basically.
Awesome video. Just fixed one of mine. Same issue. Used your fix!! Plan to fix the other side tomorrow!! I have a 94 302 2wd.
Keep the vids coming!!
+John Trew glad you got it fixed! Pretty simple right? More vid coming...
Awesome. Both my drivers side and passenger windows do that on my 1990. It got to the point that i had to pull the trim panel off and leave to get the window up. In a truck that doesn't have working ac, there was no way i was going to drive with the windows up during the middle of summer in kansas.
Well there ya go! Easy fix, good as new!
I didn’t know about the dimples! that’s going to help a lot, thanks for the great tip.
When you put the motor on tape the screw to the nut driver so it dosen't fall down in side of the door.
I just did the rear window and driver side window on a 1995 Ford Bronco I use 3 11mm ball bearings
Thank you for taking the time to make a video! Shop envy lol
Thanks Fox...My 95 xlt passenger side motor had same crumbled yellow crud. Works great now. You werent kidding bout how small snap ring is! Got ring off by carefully using 2 of my more pointy drill bits one in each hole and rocking it back n forth 90 degrees to shaft . May need to bend them tighter after reinstall them into their groove. I assume they are there to keep gear from walking off shaft over time? Thanks again!
Hey so I have a 1992 Ford F-150 4x4 that needed extensive work we I’d say are about half way and I have finally gotten to the window motor on the right side I pulled the fuse driver side stopped working so I believe it’s the motor because I hear clicking from the switch like it’s supplying power but you helped me find the holes that needed to drill so thanks. Also a tip from my dad (I’m 17) believe it or not “Just pick up a tool and do it”
You are awesome! Removed my window motor and it was the exact same problem!
Green F 150 looks awesome, I am currently restoring a 93' 2WD, XL, 4.9...........My Dad's old truck
That's awesome. I bought a 94 XLT 2WD 4.9 and I'm loving it.
@@MichaelDavis-hz8vd just bought mine in December 1994 f150 XLT long bed with a ladder rack. and the 4.9L 105k miles, she just getting started.
I fixed mine with three rusty nuts.
Alexa, play “As good as I once was”
Good job do it yourselfer I enjoy working on my old Ford truck too I got a 1994 f250 super duty nice place you have there too wish I had a place like yours keep up the good work
YOU KNOW IN THIS POLITICAL SEASON WITH ALL OF US GOING CRAZY! YOU ARE WHAT WE ALL NEED TO SEE JUST A AMERICAN GETTING DONE WHATS NEED TO BE DONE! THANK YOU FOR REMINDING ME WHO WE REALLY ARE!
I believe the plastic was there instead of steel as a safety issue. The plastic will break before whatever is in the path of the window going up.
Thanks I was struggling for around a half hour before I saw this video
Glad ya got it fix man, I just swapped my old panels for some out of a 92 along with a better bench seat, mines coming along rather nice, keep up the good work, more from The Rat Shack coming soon ✌✌✌🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks!
that green ford is a beauty for sure.
Worked for me, I was a dumbass trying to pull out the front piece lol. And for me the metal cover on the motor was crimped on two edges and didn't come off so easy I had to uncrimp them. I didn't have pliers for the snap ring I used my volt meter and used the ground and positive needles to spread it lol. Hope my experience helps further his video!
I have a 1992 Ford F150 that my father bought brand new so I am the second owner. I like this truck, especially the 4.9L 6, but this was not Ford's finest hour. It has a lot of design flaws but it is 29 years old and still going.
Design flaws? Not like the me ones... but what's wrong?
Glad I found this need to fix my drivers side on my 92!!
Both of those trucks are beautiful
Nice fix, but leave it to Ford to be different. Having to drill holes in the inside of the door is Crazy!
Just an FYI if anybody's looking for the actual part(s) doing an Amazon search. These fit my 1995 F-350:
Plugs only: DORMAN 74410 Window Regulator Gear Plug, Pack of 3
Gear and plugs kit: Dorman 747-409 Power Window Motor Gear for Select Models
--New subscriber
Love your green and white truck
Thankya!
Good info, I’m having window issues on the right side. Maybe this is my problem also, I’m hoping anyway. Thanks for the video!
If clicking... Can you help it up and down with your hands?...'these trucks aren't bed lol.. May bed to last be lubed up.. where the window slides up and down, the window mechanism stuff.. Might be just full of gunk
This is a clutch mechanism. The balls compress and let the rack and pinion turn, if the window hits an object.
If the plastic clutch balls are replaced with steel or JB weld, the window motor could strip the helical teeth underneath and/or pinch someone's neck to the point of suffocation. This is safety stuff. Be careful , you'll shoot your eye out.....
Nice fix Jon! Congrats on 3000 subs!!
Been meaning to fix that darn window for a long time. I never use it by myself, but seems whenever someone else gets it ends up being rolled down for whatever reason LOL! Yeah, 3000 subs... onward and upward! (I hope)...
@@TheFoxShop 16,800K Subscribers as of 12/13/2019 Way to go!!!! Thank you so much for working on OBS Ford F-150 Trucks. I have learned a lot from your video's. I haven't put much to use yet do to lack of work area and some confidence issues. At least I can keep a laptop next to me as I attempt to do some work on my '93 F-150.
I know this is a year old, but the plastic rollers to fix the gearbox are less than $2.00 at the parts house (for all three).
got a link Gary?
👍🏻 I should have my 92 f150 window running up again tomorrow
If you want a permanent fix you could probably use roller bearings, but I think the factory ones are for safety incase someone gets a body part in the way of the window going up.
You can buy replacement ball bearings to put in there if you want. Those things r notorious for breaking I have replaced several of those motors
Exactly what was wrong with mine. Thanks a lot!
Absolutely great video, Thank you!
Love ur green truck much more
Really liked the video, but this seems to be the procedure for the front window. I have a 4 door and it's my driver's side rear window that's having the problem. I got everything down to drilling holes in the dimples, but there are no dimples in the door panels in the rear. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I've never done it on a four door...gotta get the motor out somehow.. Sorry I'm not much help..
i got a mystery for yall. i just did this fix, got inside the gearbox and to my dismay there were already nuts in place of the plastic rollers. so somebody beat me to it, BUT, i drilled the holes to get the motor out. how did the previous person get the window motor out??
Could have installed new rivets when they put it back.
Nice job well done better than factory in my opinion!
Not sure why they did it like they did...but...it also lasted almost 23 years, so cant complain too much I guess. LOL
The Fox Shop true
Thanks for the instruction. Worked great and free!
You’re the man, thanks for making this video
I have a 1994 F150 XLT 4x4 with 225k miles and my window won’t go up?? Just watching your video to see if I can fix it? Maybe I can do it with the help of your video! Thanks, we will see!?
DYTCH72 you can also put ball bearings or small hex nuts in the slots to hold the metal gear so that it will spin when the motor is turned on it works I did mine today and the plastic gears were shredded like in this video but now my window is functioning great
@@lauroestrada2410 mine wont go down even after this
@@alex_king3271 i dono it worked for me and mine didnt even move at all but now it works great still works today cheap and easy fix other then taking the window motor out
Thank you so much for this awesome vid... you just saved me $50.. mine was doing the exact same thing.. I used JB Stick to fix it... a lot easier and quicker setup time... thanks again!
I've got 2 of those window motors to deal with and the. All doors and tailgate won't open so I'm gonna have to get creative.
ive got a 1996 f150 the passenger window does nothing. through either switch no noise at all drivers side window works fine. the passenger switch is a little sticky and doesnt seem right. ive replaced switches on a 94 i had. what are the odds its just a switch if theres no noise not even the little clicking when you try and engage the switch
Having this same issue with my son't Mercury Mountaineer...... Will be doing this surgery later today, it appears. Thanks for takin' the time to share!..........Update........ Ugh....... Mine looks nothing like that....... It's got wire cable wrapped around a bobbin looking thing..... Fuckin' engineers!!!!
Thank You, for your information. I'm new to car fixing stuff. Does the snap ring have to come off to get the gunk and gear out? Also how do I get it off? I'm going to try keeping the unit in a gallon zip lock so it does not go flying. Also what kind of grease should I place inside with the replacement plastic things?
Snap ring pliers.. if going to grease..like with the nuts I did..don't think I used any..but something real light weight
@@TheFoxShop Thank You. I just bought some pliers today. I'll try tomorrow.
Thanks for the video! Just what I needed. what size were those nuts you used?
think they were 7/16.
They rivet the window motor in, so you have to drill those out and replace them with screws with nuts on them. You can buy the rollers that go inside of that window motor to fix it but that doesn't always fix it.
Thank you for the video! I had the same problem.
Window lift repair kit on Amazon for about 21 bucks. Replacement motor is about 45. PS the kit I bought didn't come with the c-clip so try not to lose that thing, cuz that's a trip to Home Depot and that takes more time than the window lift motor cost.
It worked! U the man!!
I love this body style
Had issues trying to view the video earlier today but I was able to watch it just now. Very interesting to know it's that easy to fix the motor like that. I wish my truck had power windows. I do have a question for you though, I had to have door keys made for my truck and the keys that were made work great in the drivers side door but both keys get stuck in the passenger door and you have to jiggle the key like crazy to get it out. I've sprayed lock de-icer in the key hole as well as wd40 and the keys still stick. Any suggestions on why the lock cylinder is doing that?
The original keys were lost and the new keys were made when I bought the truck. So I don't know if the original keys were the same way when locking/unlocking the passenger door.
hard to tell... the originals may have been like that too, or the ones you had made...might be one of the teeth needs ground down a tad or something but if it works fine elsewhere..I dunno, Will probably get better over time as the keys start to wear down a little
Kyle Krause How did you get keys made for your truck? and are the keys for the locks in the door the same for the key in the ignition or different?
The door keys are different than the ignition keys. From what I was told they made the door keys by removing the lock cylinder on the drivers door. The 2 keys that were cut work great in the drivers door but stuck in the passenger door. As I mentioned I've used wd40 and nothing's helped.
Kyle Krause Where did you go to get your keys made? My locks work on both doors but I haven't had keys to lock the doors from the outside since I've bought the truck
Most people use the speaker hole for extra access. As Ford does.
Oh, by the way,, I used 3 - 5\16" hex nuts which I ground to a machine fit
Not quite sure why you went about it that way. Those plastic buttons are dirt cheap, I picked up a box of 100 on Amazon for less than $8. Probably about the same price as you spent attempting to use JB weld. Simple repair, I've done literally hundreds over my career.
@thefoxshop I was able to do this but my window only goes up and not down now. Any ideas?
I have had a time with the dome light, it is on the same fuse as the speed odometer sensor.
very annoying- i just pop the fuse while working
hey there would be able to know why my front tires a facing inwards like there bent real bad the top tire sticks in to the top fender well. why do think is that
Not 100% sure... possibly worn out bushings or something or may just need a front end alignment. Best bet would be to take it to a reputable alignment shop and have them do an alignment They will let you know if anything else is worn out.
thanks man you were a big help
Very helpful, thank you
Nice channel! Subbed!
It probably won't work on my 1986 f-150 but I'll keep it in mind
It will be almost exactly the same. Way back to at least 1980.
What did you drill out the door with? My largest metal drill bit is 3/8 inch, which is too small for the nut driver to fit, and the hole doesn't line up exactly with the motor bolts. Need a bigger hole, but don't know what to use. Suggestions anyone?
I don't remember, but I'll try to get back to you when I get in from the field tonight
@@TheFoxShop Thanks!
Just measured the head on my 10mm but driver, seems to bed right at 3/8"... I'm not sure what size bit I used, seems 1/2" should work... Guessing that's what I used or you could go even larger, not gonna hurt anything.
@@TheFoxShop Just ordered a 1/2" bit from Amazon. That's as big as my drill chuck will take. Cross your fingers!
Amazon takes so long anymore it seems..could borrow one or maybe hardware store? I think should work for ya though! 👍👍👌
Just a FYI that is the same time period when evil garage doors and all automatic windows had to incorporate a life saving saftey break so you couldn't strangle your kid "accidentally" in a window. This is designed to break under pressure and "save lives".
The "fillers" are BREAK aways IF your kid stuffs his head in the window as you close the window you dont kill em..... some guys have used nuts in the void space the nubs are available as is the white gear .... Its common now that they are 20 plus ... Its easy Using a small flat screwdriver you can get under the snap ring but hold it with plyers
what if you just clean that yellow stuff out n re use it do yall think it will work fine or no?
Can't reuse or when it's all crumbled up
Good job ✌🏻👍😀
Thank you so much for that video!
What size nut do you recommend I use?
Thanks this video Help me a lot
Very helpful
What's the size of the replacement screws ?
They changed something . I changed several in a 92". 99 has 2006 thousand miles still on the original window motors.
thanks bro!
👍👍👌
That's an old trick we use to do in the used car biz.
It works longer than the vehicle you put it in... LOL
Anyone know the motorcraft part number for the lower radiator hose for a 96 f150 w/ 5.0