Toyota 7M-GTE: Everything You Need to Know
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ธ.ค. 2020
- Toyota introduced the M engine family all the way back in 1965. It went over many changes over the years, but the most well-known version is the 7M-GTE. Every engine in the Toyota M series family is a straight-6 engine with overhead cams, although many of the earlier engines were single-overhead-cam, and they all use a cast-iron block with a cast-aluminum cylinder head. By today's standards, those features aren't particularly special but back then the M series family was relatively advanced.
Because the 7M-GTE is part of the M-Series family, it uses a cast-iron block with a cast-aluminum cylinder head. Because this was designed as a performance application, Toyota used a dual-overhead-cam head to maximize airflow and power potential. What makes the GTE version of the engine interesting, is the fast that it's turbocharged with a CT26 turbo that outputs around 6psi of boost. This is completely different than the 7M-GE with is naturally aspirated. If you're familiar with Toyota's typical naming scheme, this shouldn't come as much of a surprise.
Clip Appearances:
RBS14K Media - • 1990 Toyota Supra Turb...
KaikWorks - • Rod Knocking 7MGTE Tea...
John Bui - • 1987 Toyota Supra Turb...
MrBigzee - • mk3 supra fully built ...
MRC Tuned - • MRC Tuned Project '89 ...
TIRESIDE - • Nic's MK3 Supra : 500 ...
Nick Slone - • 7mgte Supra: Light Str...
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Hey can you make channel playlists
Hey, there's a mistake in the description! In the second paragraph it says "fast" when it is meant to be "fact"
Can u please maybe make a vid on the bmw m54 engine family plz there is no video about them on TH-cam 😒
Great video summary 7M-GTE! Know for a fact that BHG is an issue. Suggestions on how to assess a machine shop for decking ability on these? Definitely not a DIY project. Also can you discuss what's so great about ARP studs vs bolts. Is this just the latest buzzword/fad or is there a real benefit to just increasing torque or using better bolts? And third, can you talk about shimming the oil pump and why?
And lastly, for normal people, the stock engine is more fun than should be legal. Plenty of power IMHO to put a huge smile on your face.
With todays knowledge, steel headgasket and shimmed oilpump fixes both major problems, now youre golden.
-proud 600whp 7mgte owner
I mean you can say that about a hell of a lot of old engines
No you can't
@@TerrenceLP my so far 20.000km 600whp 7m can
@@MistRVertexZ still stock internals? Just rebuilt my 7m with all the supporting mods
Do you know if I can use a 7m gte with w58 transmission?
After having built one of the highest reliable horsepower 7m’s out there. There are far more problems then described in this video. Yea the head gasket was under torqued from the factory. But also the aluminum head the was made of a soft material and if heated past a certain temperature, the head would into jello causing to head bolts to come loose because they would just keeping sinking into the head. Which would lead to blown head gaskets. The solution that was used by forum members to resolve this issue was to add over sized head washers to prevent the head bolts from sinking. Factory oil pressure was an issue. The oil pump needed to be shimmed. Aside from the oil pump needing shimming, the factory oil cooler ran a pressure relieve valve that restricted flow, it needed to be converted for better oil pressure and flow. The factory oil filter sandwich plate also restricted good oil flow and also needed to be upgraded. The 7m is also prone to easily getting coolant leaks and oil leaks and exhaust leaks. The factory valve cover bolts need to be replaced with after market bolts in order for them to stay torqued properly. The factory exhaust head studs would strip causing exhaust leaks since the head was too soft so the bolts would need to be replaced and retapped with over sized studs. The coolant tube that runs around the head could easily leak because of the rubber cap that plugs the back for a right hand drive heater hose. The factory intercooler plumbing is prone to heat soak since it runs over the turbo. The CPS was an issue, you could not get a steady reading and made the car harder to tune especially at hp numbers higher than 500hp. Though not a problem, 7m ran batch fire ignition and fuel injection. And would need to be converted to sequential ignition and injection. This alone made the 7m inferior to the 1jz and 2jz platform. 1jz and 2jz used newer electronic technology and were far better base platforms. They just had far less issue that needed to be addressed from the factory to run reliably with higher horsepower.
@@smackout
No it doesn’t. My 1JZ TT has factory sequential.
my bad. i was thinking ignition. lol yes the ecu has individual drivers for injection. i even thought ur response was about the turbo setup not injection lol. all g comment will be removed.
My 7m is at 1000whp. I still run the original 1987 oil pump just to prove a point. I did however shim the pump and check the tolerances. Video is pretty good I do however disagree the horsepower capability.
nigga stop the cap😭
@@joeyhardin2453 Wym, you can make over 1000hp on a 7mgte with nothing done to the bottom end but pistons and rods. Plus after you shim the oil pump the oil pressure sits at around 80psi at idle
Wtf does shim even mean I’m clueless also how do you check for tolerances without like a industrial lathe machine thing?
@@tony_5156 with feeler guaves my friend.
Hi Kwake I’m about to rebuild my 7MGTE , the oil input shaft retention bracket is pretty primitive..any ideas? I have heard Technico racing have a needle roller bearing. …
I've had a taken apart 7mgte in my garage for years. Trying to gain the knowledge and courage to put it back together. One day it'll run.
I've had an MA70 as my daily for the last 4 years now with an unmodified 7M-GTE in it. I was fortunate enough to have a customer in my previous job who had been a Toyota master technician for some 30-odd years, and I had a lot of opportunities to pick his brain about this engine.
And these are the things I subsequently learned:
- The head gasket issue is more common on the non-turbo models as the non-turbos run at a naturally higher compression, although it is still something which you will find on a turbo model.
- The issue was caused in-part by the torque settings on the head bolts, but what also compounded the problem was that a large number of head bolts were manufactured just a teeeeeeeny bit too long, you wouldn't notice it by eye, even when the bolts are fully torqued up, but because they were that bit too long, they bottomed out on the block and left an almost microscopic gap which over time led to a blow.
If you have had a head gasket done, and it's been done to the specification of the technical manual update, you have a very strong engine which is capable of around 450bhp on the stock internals.
You have to drive them sensibly and remember you're dealing with a 30+ year old car, don't go flooring it from cold and let it run at idle for a couple of minutes before you turn it off if you've been on boost a lot.
You don't have to wrap them in cotton wool as such, but you just have to be sensible with them and they'll treat you good!
Also just to note, all our Turbo models in the UK came with an LSD as standard, so if you are looking for an LSD for your example, you'll probably find one from a breaker over here more easilly than you might elsewhere.
My 1989 non turbo had a lsd from the factory. Maybe it was an option.
@mikeadams42 my 89 turbo has a lsd as well. Could be
Thank you for the facts by the way. I heard about the bolts actually being a tiny bit too long before. But hell yeah
I have had a 7mgte in 1 of my cars for years, only bought the 7m because at the time that was all I could afford..... after about 3 head gaskets latter built a full engine.
Still have her now and still turns heads, on 14psi makes 480 rwhp and on 21psi makes 586 rwhp on pump gas. I love the old 7mgte
Amen brother
Hi what turbo you use i am busy with the same engine i am looking for 500 whp not more will the stock internals handel that power please let me know shalom
@@elshaddaimotors1031 Hi mate, I'm running a Garrett gtw 3485, awesome turbo kicks like a mule when comes on boost but only comes on at about 4500rpm, was using a turbonetics t66 before which was more street able and still made 475rwhp
Hi thanks will the stock internals be good for the power
shalom
@@elshaddaimotors1031 yeah I would definitely throw a mls cometic head gasket and arp head studs, and deck the head while your there,
Then rods should be ok I had a set of factory rods shot peened and polished and where fine for the power your after, but factory pistons I reckon would be ok as long as everything supporting them are good, as in good fuel supply and tune, but if it was me I would chuck a set of forged piston in there for good measure
Watching this a decade after my 7M blew it's head gaskets.
Haha yeah done a few a decade back
SAME THAT HAPPENED TO ME
I love all three engine platforms. Currently swapping from a 7MGTE to a 2JZ GTE in my Supra. One thing that I do believe is better about the 7mGTE compared to the 2JZ or the 1JZ is the sound. There's nothing else out there that sounds like a 7mGTE. Great video and earned a liking and subscribe from me!
Good video and lots of great info on the 7M. However, there's a fair bit more to the rod knock issue other than '7M weaker then 1/2JZ'. This will take some explanation.
The most common head gasket failures on this engine happened between oil and water passages which mixed the oil and coolant; this gave you the dreaded 'milkshake'. Unfortunately, when this happens the coolant content in the compromised oil starts eating away at the rod(and probably main) bearings, which eventually results in rod knock. Additionally the stock oiling system on the 7M leaves much to be desired; the stock pump doesn't provide much pressure at idle/low RPM and the stock sump hardline to the block is poorly bent and kinked in multiple places.
This sounds like an extreme fix for a BHG on these cars but if the engine has seen milkshake it is a really good idea to replace the rod and main bearings at the very least. Driftmotion(a very good A70 Supra aftermarket supplier) sells modified oil pumps and high-flow sump hardlines that fix the oiling issue. Additionally if you are going in for a BHG you absolutely need to get the head decked at the very least. If you want to run a metal head gasket instead of stock, the block(and the lower timing cover that the head gasket also sits on) must also be decked; even though they are cast iron they can and do warp slightly. The 7M I'm building came out of a '91 with low miles and full dealer service history(owner went 2J); upon tearing it down I noticed the HG was just starting to go and the block was warped slightly beyond spec. For a metal head gasket to seal it is absolutely critical that the sealing surface is just about perfect.
Other than that, ARP hardware and the proper torque should make for a great engine. As far as why I prefer the 7M? I like the torque, I love the sound, and the M block has a direct lineage to the original 2000GT for that historical angle. There are rumors that the M block was actually developed from earlier Toyota I6 engines, possibly even back to the Chevy Stovebolt 6 that they copied for their first passenger cars. I haven't really been able to confirm this, though it does make for an interesting story and there are vestiges of a cam in block passage inside the engine block itself(the same channel the oil pump uses; additionally there's a fuel hardline bolted in where a mechanical fuel pump would go on a carb'd car). All in all, one of my favorite engines.
Righteous 😎
Beautifully said
A recent video about a 7m....nice!
Never had head gasket problems, own 1989 Supra Turbo and owned it for 4 years. Metal head gasket and ARP head studs are a must when making more power or for very high mileage.
They sound better then the jz
Ideal engine for "cruising" with 280hp?
I had a Supra store upgraded turbo , gm’s fully 3 inch stainless down pipe to a full 3 inch stage pipe with Lexus injectors and a maf translator, build r154 “dog box” with a soild hub 4 puck clutch and a modded turbo xs rfl bov that car was legendary in Philly around 06/07
I mean compared to the 2jz in my opinion they should the same and compared to the 1jz the 1jz sounds better
Yes they do they sound deeper.
@@caperformance_motorsports hey man did u have a talon ?
7m-gte sounds better than any jz motor to me
My KA24 is louder than my 2jz ... both have full 3.5 inch exhaust from the turbo back.
Great video, thanks dude 🤘
Can you make a video on the VW 2.0T’s. Such as the EA113 or EA888. I love these videos man keep it up!!!
Respect bro nice video!!!
Great video and if you'd be able to I'd like to see you do one about the 5mge and adding a turbo with it
Best to slap on the 7mgte turbo components on it and tune and call it a day
I'd love to see a vid on the 1G-GE/GZE
Why it was shit
@@supradrift1000 its literally 2 1jz fused together. It aint shit
I have one
I have one, its not that great
DUDE. As an avid 7M fan and builder, you hit the nail on the head. Can't fault these facts! Good shit
I wanna buy a 7M soon, what can i do to make the engine safer, so it doesnt blow up? Which parts do you recommend to change/upgrade? And what do i need to care mostly when buyin one? ✌🏽
@@99Akhi Hey man.
So are you planning on buying a 7m for a conversion? And do you plan on building/rebuilding it?
@@SaucyTuRkLeBiRd i am planning to buy one
@@SaucyTuRkLeBiRd so what do i have to look for, to avoid gettin scammed
@@99Akhi If you arent rebuilding it best bet would be to
1. Get the owner to do a comp test and send you pictures inside the cam covers to make sure its clean. Ask when the headgasket was last done. If it already has ARP headstuds and they are torqued to 90ftibs with a metal headgasket or the same with composite gasket, then you're good to go and refer to part 4, otherwise keep reading.
2. Once you have the motor, remove the head and get it machined. The roughness average (RA) NEEDS to be fine and the head surface should have a mirror finish. Inform the machine shop of this. Also get them to do a hardness test. Also check and clean your deck surface at this time
3. If not decking the block (must remove pistons etc) then I would recommend going with either a factory headgasket or AJUSA composite gasket with ARP headstuds (studs not bolts) torqued to 90ftibs. Clean the deck surface as best you can and check for straightness. Some people get away with a MLS without machining the block and timing cover but its a little risky. Composite gasket done properly can still make 450hp ish reliably.
4.You're gonna want to replace all the seals too while the engine is out, and AJUSA have a full engine seal kit for this including headgasket. Follow the instructions on the Cygnus TSRM for this and use High temp oil resistant silicine on the parts where a cork gasket is supplied.
5. While the engine is out, shim the oil pump (google "7m oil pump shim" - I think the general consensus is 5mm) or buy a Driftmotion upgraded oil pump. At this time also replace the stock oil hardpipe with an Arizona performance 7m hardpipe which flows so much better.
6. Also while the engine is out replace the timing belt and the timing belt tensioner.
Hopefully this will keep it reliable for you.
aye thats my supra at 1:50! Thanks for the feature man! Just found this video and am a proud owner of a 7m for almost 8 years now without a single problem 🤙
Hey great video. By chance would you know the measurement for the block top to bottom and the measurement of the head valve cover surface to bottom? I can't find this info anywhere, my engine head had been rebuilt and cut 2 times and it has to get done again. Thanks
Very informative video but I take exception to your comment on the CT-26 Turbo. I'm an original owner of an '87T with a little over 200k miles and I have nearly 37 years of experience. My former mechanic, who raced Supras, purposely took his CT-26 to 25-lbs before it gave out. I personally ran 18-lbs for almost 2 years without a problem before backing off to around 12-lbs just to go for more longevity over ego.
Have you done a video on the North American iron block M52B28 yet? It would make a cool video considering that it had forged crank and rods factory and apparently potential for 600+ horsepower with a stock bottom end
I had a non turbo stock 7mge with a straight through muffler. It sounded like an exotic supercar. By far my best sounding car I ever had. It was also the slowest car I ever owned. That car was a tank!
I had an 87 supra with the 7m-ge and it was awesome. Wasn't as fast as anything else, but coolness factor was off the scale and the power was good
Hey you made easily the best point, if you can't get a 1 or 2jz the get the 7m. Easy as that
Great video, I just wish you would have given the upgraded torque spec for the head studs. I think it was 72lbs or 78lbs, I just wanted confirmation.
I see someone say about shimming the oil pump.. what does that do, to improve the engine?
I have an 88 turbo since 90. Blown head gasket at 62,000. Replaced it with a GReddy 1.4mm Metal Head Gasket, Head and Values reground (values re-shimmed), ARP studs@75lbs. Profec II Electronic Turbo Boost Controller @13.5psi, HKS Super Mega Flow Air Intake, TurboXS BOV, Down Pipe, Runs great and just hit 110,000miles. Great engine!
hello can u maybe make a vid about the bmw m54 engine family? No one else has a video on them tbh😶😐
I avoided the 7M by going for a Supra GA70 with the 1G-GTE engine. I'm open to hearing anything about inherent issues this one has. Any head gasket gonna blow anytime soon?
I'm looking into buying a 1989 Toyota Cressida. What are some reliable places I can shop for replacing old engine parts if needed?
Hay bro
I know it doesn't relate to this video...
But, can you make a comparison video about these engines?
LS vs HEMI vs COYOTE
Thanks a lot❤
If you are planning on spending a lot and doing a complete rebuild than yes. In my case I have the NA so I am looking at a V8 option to get some more modern levels of power and keeping it NA.
Yo I used to have a cressida with 7mge. Sold it though. Somewhat miss it, although not having to do headgasket is a win i suppose
You got it in a South African only Cressida?
Torque wise I like the 7m better than the 2jz I’ve had a 7mgte on my MK3 Supra and I loved the torque
nice brother now if I may ask can I fit 7M_GTE engine to my old Toyota Cressida 1988 Twin cum over head, straight six rear wheel Drive or i will have to change even the computer box
I had a 92 facelift model ... approx 600hp (never dyno'd ... had 5 boost settings , methinol injection , full engine rebuilt , port polish , forged piston , launch control etc ... had a bigger turbo but got offered a deal for it i sorta was mad to not take ... it was a fun sleeper, metal head gasgets and studded down a must ... made many v8 drivers cry .... had 4litre quad cam soarors , 2.5 twin turbos .. 430 lexus coupes ... now got a gs 08 460 lexus 140km ... beaut car but will update to 5litre later model end yr .. but the 7mgte was one fun engine i got built up .. think with computer cost me $50 k .... thats 5boost settings .. metal gasgets full internal work , external wastegate , meth injection , launch control ... twim skin kevlar clutch ... loved that car ... woman made me sell it for towards home ... so make sure still have a nice driver now aint got toys ...
Think put differantblade in turbo .. then ripped it out put a bigger one ... then got a massive garrett for it .. would been well over 600hp with that .. was set up for whatever turbo i wanted ...
Can you do a video on the Ford 335 series V8s?
i own a 1989 Supra with 7mgte since 2 years and my oil pump diveshaft broke 3 times but exclude this i love my engine and it has a deeper sound course of long stroke
deeper sound than a 1 or 2jz *
I feel like a decent bit of this information is outdated and you got it from old forums from the late 90's and early 2000's. That said the 7m is plenty capable. The stock block capability is definitely more than 4-500 hp as long as the mhg and oil pump issues are resolved this engines can reliably do 5-800 hp on the stock block as long as its tuned right and has proper supporting mods just like any jz. And the gt3076r is what everyone used 15 years ago, real supra owners know that you only run borg warner s300 series turbos or at least a precision 60 series. With all the support in the aftermarket , trigger systems and better tuning options like ecumaster emu or even the det3 piggieback 7m is a win in my book. Sounds better than any jz , more unique, and you can literally build a 1000 hp 7mgte for pretty much the cost of a bpu setup 1 or 2j swap. its a no brainer
All folks who cannot afford a JZ say this..
@@oggarage6298 who needs a jz when I can make more power for less. And I've owned p plenty of multiple generations of supra and 7m's,1, and 2j's and still stand by this.
had a mk3 turbo about 20 years ago in the UK.. had head gasket issues and then bottom end issues due to oil starvation..
Car was not really designed as an all out sports car so some things were not thought about I guess.. I always thought the oil issue and bottom end problems were mainly because there was no baffle in the sump hard acceleration or steep hills the oil would push right back in the sump... So when I had the issue I ended up welding my own baffle into the sump to get around the issues.
Never really kept the car long enough then to know if it helped but reading here seems there was other oil pressure issues as well.
But yeah mk3 super is a stunning car still one of my favourites..
and the 7mge is a beast as well.. less turbo head gasket issues lol
Ive got an 84 p-type with 229k miles on its original 5mge, and I am going to pull it out to preserve it. Trying to decide between a 7m gte, a 1jz gte, or a 1 or 3uz fe
Reliable 500whp w/ stock internals if done right from a motor that came out in the late 80’s. 7m is of the best motors out there still to this day. Change my mind.
1jz is also great and 1g
Banger vid
Nice info...I have a 1987 Totota Cressida with 1G-E 2.0 six cylinder...2 valves per cylinder...this engine is smooth and extremely reliable stock as long as you service it regularly...Seeing that good condition MK II Cressidas are becoming extremely hard to find...and mine is still in good condition...I really need to get an engine, to be kept stock, to give a bid more zip...the IG-E engine is extremely lazy...so next thought of upgrade for more power will be looking to replace the donkey 1G-E engine with a 7m-GE 3.0 24 valve DOHC engine...
Can you make a video about the VR30DDTT?
Yes I can 😊
@@Dustrunnersauto thanks👍
@@Dustrunnersauto VG30 please.
The MK3 is just so much more stylish than the MK4 though.
The 7M-GTE is a great motor and really overlooked as a big power motor. The 2JZ is a great motor and its tried and true to get power. Lets look at some facts though. Who is going to swap or transplant an un-rebuilt motor into their rides? Not very many, im willing to say maybe 5%. If you pay attention to detail on rebuilding these engines, there is no reason why couldnt aim for 750 to 800 hp.
With that said, for a high screamer and for all out top speed, 2JZ until the cows come home. For a street car and daily driver with big HP i would go with the 7M-GTE. Reason for that is simple. That long stroke to big bore lends itself extremely well to supercharging.
A guy down the street from me has both a 98 Supra with a 2JZ and he has a 92 Supra with the 7M. He uses both for Autocross. On longer courses with a lot of straights he use the 98, but in shorter parking lot courses he uses the 92.
Both engines are fantastic but they each have their shortcomings. Needless to say, he takes his wife out on the town in the 92 and prefers to drive it everyday. Build it to solve the weaknesses, and youll have a great engine either way.
7M sounds better than both the JZ’s
That longer stroke gives them a very distinct sound. Every fault that plagued this engine from the factory has been addressed and fixed by the aftermarket and there are plenty of big power 7M guys around. They just don’t swing their dicks like the JZ guys do.
Can you please mention again the name and source of the oil pump insert (additional spring?) alternative to shim? Thanks.
You can buy a full upgraded oil pump for 7m at driftmotion you will also need an upgraded feed tube for the lager supply of oil Also on drift motion
The problem with the Supras (and probably other cars) that had this engine was that Toyota spec'd an underpowered cooling system for the car. This resulted in overheating and then head gasket popping. I had 2 Supras, and had friends with Supras, and they all had overheating problems.
That's also because the last 2 cylinders is where the EGR gasses got passed into, which made a ridiculously high heat differential across the head, an EGR delete will solve this problem
Heh have you heard of the 4.5 v6 powerstroke id like to see a vid on it
Junkyard where?? I have to get parts from other states 😩
My 7m blew up in the taco bell drive thru. Then while i was pushing my cressida into a parking spot, someone payed for my crunchwrap supreme. Moral of the story, your 7m will blow up, but then u get free tacos 👍
the 7m-gte was never designed to be a turbocharged engine. toyota basically lowered the compression and slapped the ct-26 on it. the JZ engines were designed from the ground up to be boosted. the rod knock issue has been debated to death for yrs and the consensuses is that the 4-7psi of oil pressure at idle along with leaking head gaskets that diluted the oil caused the rod bearings to fail. it's also important to note that yamaha designed the cylinder head on both the m series and jz engines. another fatal flaw of the 7m is that the fire rings are basically touching each other which would cause HG failures... it's still a great engine and I believe I still hold the stock exhaust manifold power record of 543whp set back in 2001. :)
They swap them into hiluxes here in Australia
The only advantage I have heard of is cost (which you covered) and I have read the 7m block has 5% more nickel in the block giving it a slight advantage in block strength. Not sure of the credibility of this fact I have not confirmed with Toyota.
Should cover the 1FZ-FE, the last and biggest inline six Toyota has ever made, and had been known to be pushed over 2000hp.
Hey I swapped a 7mgte into a 240 volvo wagon.the only concern is oil pressure it does not pass 25 psi.
Just chuck the stock oil pump for a new drift motion one.
The 7M-GTE is underrated
torque monster
My engine is you thumbnail. BTW haha
What did you do to it?
Where the hell did you get your valve covers
@@Conker999 I have videos on that
@@drostapena7029 AZ Performance, was a short run of them made. They are billet, I believe only 20 sets where made in 2006/2007
@@DanaAnthonyHoeft oof
Yeah, I’ve known the 7mgte and ge for a while lmao
I thought that in 92 the last year of the mk3 they put the first gen of the j series engine a 1jgte twin turbo. Then in 93 they started producing the 2jgte.
I don't know where to start with the corrections. The "1J" is a diesel.
I have driven a cressida and its quite fast for it's weight
They can get up and go
As an owner of two built 7mgte cars here are my thoughts. A 7m is better than a 1j which doesnt make torque and is prone to spinning rod bearings. I have reliably ran a 7mgte at 18 psi making 425 wheel on a dyno for about 4 years before I upgraded. Dollar for dollar a 7m will crush a 1j.
Hell yes! 7MGTE's are amazing, as long as you're not afraid to get your hands dirty. Kind of a blessing in disguise ;)
7MGTE is a good engine minus the weak point being the gasket but that can be fixed with ARPs Bolts and the Metal Head Gasket other then that its 3.0 TQ motor. I will say though once you go with the 1JZGTE and the 2JZGTE the RPM of the engine the twin Turbo design does produce a fairly amount of good TQ and has the potential of HIGH HIGH HP numbers once they are properly set and built that the 7MGTE tailers off
I think the 7m have potential
Just got a 85 toyota pickup with a 7m gt swap and its super fast. 22r can suck it
I'm looking for a 1jz gte vvti for sale. After watching this, if any of you jz guy is looking to downgrade, i would be happy to buy your jz off of you.
In the far future I would like to 7m swap a 240 and make it pro 1 spec
Might we have some fax on the 1FZ-FE
2 flaws: 1. Head gasket needs torque to 100lbs 2. eliminate banjo bolt oil line to pump other then that good to go for 600hp reliable bottom end engine after other tasteful power upgrades
My 7M is 1500hp with Stock crank and stock block
very underrated engines and not very popular and i hope it stays that way ..
I read 9.1:1 ratio on the 7m-ge
440hp at the wheels. mild mods. Rebuilt hi flow ct26. Lost my licence twice.....
My pops built a 7m gte 500+hp almosts 600 and where building another one
It’s a undeniable truth that the 7M will always be flawed.
Just get a 2J in the MK3 for long term reliability.
7m sounds like sr20 or rb26 engine 😊
do a video on the 1.5jz please
I can make that happen
The g also stands for a performance cylinderhead that is designed by yamaha
“G” stands for performance-oriented dual overhead cam setup ...
@@ACommenterOnTH-cam are there toyota engines with the G in the name that arent yamaha co working related?
@@monoracer_ afaik .. the 2jz head was the ONLY part of the engine that was designed by Yamaha but built by Toyota.
Not sure about the 1jz or the 7m series. I only know this because the 2JZ haters tried to find anything wrong with the 2JZ and they found out that the head was designed by Yamaha.
@@ACommenterOnTH-cam lol i found this a positive thing, not something to hate on
It’s not the worst engine ever
In fact I would recommend the 7MGTE/5mge over the 1jz/2jz if you don’t have the 2jz money or don’t like the 2jz vibes
two things you would understand if you actually owned one and wrenched on it number one it was a hell of an engine ahead of its time but was never built for high pressure turbo charging and number two rod knock is a issue with lack of oil due to g-forces If you start drifting an old 7M without any kind of oil pump work, she'll come knocking quick
I have 601whp and stock rods head and cams on my 7mgte . And I have own it ten years. It's have never failed. I must say 7mgte it's ver very realible and strong.
Out of the box the 1j, and 2j are superior to the 7mgte. ARP the top and bottom end, machine the bottom end to tight tolerances, shim the oil pump, and remove the stock oil filter Mont and relocate it. I wad able to get 150 psi oil pressure on cold starts, and 20 psi st idle. 5500rpms I achieved 85psi.
If you get rod nock resize, or replace rods, and stop being cheap with repairs. Use a metal head gasket and up the compression on the pistons with a 67mm turbo, and make big reliable power. I've done this,and can prove it by SUPRA Forums.
The 1988 Supra Turbo-A was the factory's attempt at a faster Supra with 265 hp. It really wasn't a standout performer because these cars weigh 3,600 pounds and to get down to a nimble 10 hp per pound weight you would need 360 hp. I consider my 1987 Turbo Supra a sport tourer with comforts. If I make an aggressive move on the road the wannabe racers always make an appearance. I just want to get there in one piece, not first.
2jz-GE are quite easy to find in Europe...just buy a Battered GS300 and pull out the Drive train and ECU....2JZ-GTE are not easy to find Outside Japan.. but common in Japan bcos a lot of JDM Toyota models use them..Chaser..MKII..Aristo..Crown..have a 1jz/2jz GTE pushing them
I have a 2jz and I miss my 7m. The torque is night and day difference. I’d take a 450hp 7m over a 500 hp 2jz any day. Much faster spool as well.
It's cheaper especially if your car is wired for it already (cressida supra). 1j has the best sound especially in a jzx100 vvti edition
Look after a Toyota and it will look after your grandkids 😂
Need to deck the block with timing cover
Thank you. Glad someone said this.
Deck the halls as well
mais alguém coletando informações pro supra do diego higa? kkkkkkkkkkkkkkk
I’ve owned all Toyota supras but not the BMW one. Like he said the 7m laid the ground work and takes good knowledge to build the motor right. The 2jz is obviously better but everything part cost a lot. And everyone wants to race everywhere u go , kind of annoying. 7 mgte is old school w a lot of character and u can make the engine look beautiful just like a 2jz.
lol saw your article comparing the 2 and you said multiple times the 7mgte is a 2.5l yet it is a 3litre and I am supposed to listen to you and you have the basics wrong!! Do some research
Honestly, like 300-325 horsepower in these cars would be plenty. They weigh 3400-3600 lbs. Thats nothing to scoff at. Yeah sure you'll have cars like scat packs and camaro ss's and mustang gts that will beat you in a straight line but depending on your wheel, tire, and suspension set up you will always have them in the corners.
In a busy city, 300 hp is more than enough. What are you going to do with 500+ hp in traffic ??
You guys act like 500 hp is alot of horsepower. Its a 3600 pound car it needs 500 hp to even get into the 10's in the quarter miles 450-500 whp is perfect in these cars for a chill street car. For a basic crusier with bpu mods or if youre not replacing the headgasket and worried about it maybe sure but with a upgraded ct26 or even bw s360 it can easily make 450 whp and be chill but also still whoop up on most the cars on the street outside the supercars and new stuff like hellcats and ctsv's and rs3's
I own the engine 7m-gte by Japan Promodet.