jason turpin im building one 2 but I Dont have alot of viewers or money , but i have alot of videos . I just tought no one was interested on them , but i can upload them anytime
Long live the 7m. I have an 88 gte I’ve been wanting to build, but the lack of knowledgeable techs on the area and lack thereof info regarding these older engines makes it difficult. Share any info you can!!
If I remember right a couple guy's from Supraforums were over 800hp on stock 7m internals. I've owned a few Supras over the years. all 7mgte but all I've did was simple bolt ons and I was blown away at how well they respond to mods
Hey MRC, I'm going to get into my 7mgte in the near future, any chance you have a build sheet? I'd like to make improvements where I can, so I'm interested in the "custom insert" for the oil pressure relief valve and the oil tube that you used (I looked at driftmotion and couldn't find it). In general though it would be cool to see all of the pieces you opted to install. One last thing, you say that these engines are known to blow their head gaskets - which is obviously a true statement - but once you go to a metal head gasket, new head studs, and most importantly torque the head down properly it should be just as reliable as a Toyota engine. Thanks for giving the 7 a go!
Im running the exact same spring in my oil pump...and i bread people trying to bash me on forums...lol. I currently was building my 7mgte until i found some cracks in the block...l liked your video and subscribed..can't Wait till the next upload...good luck
If I may make a suggestion, don't use that Driftmotion oil pickup tube for two reasons. One It's not rated for oil submersion and could eventually get brittle and rupture. Two with the upgraded oil pump your using the block side fitting doesn't hold enough threads and you run the risk of the fitting coming out under pressure. The part I do recommend however is this one. www.driftmotion.com/AZ-Performance-7M-Oil-Pump-Pipe-p/dm629.htm It is a little more expensive but. Very worth the extra money. IJ on supramania does a fantastic job of outlining the issues. I'm not a 7m guru, but I have been through 3 of them and I'm currently working on my 1st 1jz swap. Good luck with your build and so far I like your videos.
Aaron updated it from a rubber braided hose which was the reason those cases you described occurred, to a pressed crimped teflon hose, therefore those ones his currently using are fine
The new ones are made differently, I've had it on my 7m for 2 years now. Also alittle tid bit the picture used on the dm sight for the hose is my motor lol
@@EditsWithBlur If you guys know Aaron personally, I am disappointed that the photos on Driftmotion.com will not enlarge. Too damn many websites neglect the fact that buyers are visual. Show us something more than an icon sized photo of your product. Not all of us are master mechanics. I buy the parts, my mechanic does the work on my 89 7mgte
Great video I am in the process of putting a 7mgte in to a 2wd Toyota pickup. I like the information on the things to fix to increase reliability. Keep up the good work mate.
Will do. Same to you, keep us updated. I am very interested to see your success with a motor that has a some what bad reputation, But built properly should be a real fun time.
Don't forget to plug the hole that goes from the exhaust nr. 6 cylinder port to the back of the head into the EGR cooler. Since I bet you want to eliminate the EGR system. And that causes head gasket failures on the nr.6 cylinder due to the extra heat stress from the EGR cooler.
I have a 7mgte with oil squirters, pistons bore 40 over, arp head studs hks headhasket,264bc cams I chimmed the oilpump but I made a wide oil pan holds 8qts oil.did the zulu mod on head ,550rc injectors and lexus maf, on e85 just orderd a t61 turbo hopin to make 500hp .And be reliable
zero reason to keep using the airflow meter as any standalone will support MAP. Stock ECU is complete garbage on the 7M when it comes to going for more power
@@robgmechanic7509 its possible yes but modern standalone ECUs are just miles ahead of piggybacks, they have so many more features than just fuel and ignition control
I hope everything works out for you, I swapping out a N/A 7M for a 1JZGTE next month, I'm not a big 7M fan for obvious reasons, but I love my 89 Supra, she is near flawless when you exclude my bad 7M.
I also am coming from the dsm platform my 2g makes 400+ wheel and I jist sold my 1g drag car to fund the mk3. Unfortunately my fresh built (5k mile) 7m has rod knock and so I'll be building a 1j or 2jz for the supra
What brand pistons did you use? I have my 7m torn apart right now and all the cast brands look super cheap and scary, makes me want to put wisecos in but I don't want to spend that money.
I spun a rod bearing after 30 minutes due to the oil mods shooting too much oil from the oil squirters and overwhelming the rings. Engine is torn apart and I'm putting Wisecos in this go around, and deleting the squirters.
The block in my car had really bad pitted cylinders and they wouldn't bore out. Found another block with no main caps but mine didn't match. Now I'm using an na block and forged pistons so that makes me feel better that you're getting rid of the squirters.
The most economical choices you will ever make, is to replace stock cast pistons to forged ones, along with better rods and headgasket.Don´t go using stock parts. Studs will make you rebore with a dummyhead. The cylinders will be square shaped and your rings will leak.
Thank you again for the great info, is there anyway we can get your bearing clearance and ring end gap. Getting ready to do machine work with new parts. Thank you for your time.
Thank you sir for your information and time. I am only shooting for 300-350hp with full RELIABILITY from lightening, balancing and blue printing in a vehicle weighing 2300-2500lbs. Any tips and info you have for fixing Achilles heels on the 7m is much appreciated. Thank you again for you response. Can't wait to see more on Your build. Keep the good info coming.
One more question for you. Where can I acquire the machined aluminum insert for the oil pump to properly raise the oil pressure, as for I would like to do it correctly. Just curious if that is an off the shelf part or a custom part that you had made. Thanks again
How essential is piston cooling/squirters for a street engine? I can see why it would not be for 1/4 mile engine build. I am currently planning to do a full build on a GE. Should I get a GTE instead?
I would build a GTE if you can, the oil squirters really help on cooling especially during boost. Also the gte come with lower compression stock pistons and if I’m not mistaken only the gte has factory forged rods.
I ended up removing the oil squirters due to the poor design of the factory squirters. I am now running forged pistons, which do NOT need squirters. Oil piston squirters are more useful on larger diameter pistons than the 7M. Both engines have the same rods, the GE is without the squirters and has a higher compression ratio compared to the GTE, which is fine if you plan to run an ethanol blend fuel.
Btw, I am now running a GE late model crankshaft and Eagle rods/Wiseco pistons with no squirters after a rod bearing failure due to lack of lubrication. Be careful when using cast pistons that have oil ring gas ports as the squirters will create huge oil consumption problems and in my case dropped the oil level enough to run the sump dry.
Also what kind of hp are you trying to achieve? There’s a decent amount of people in the 7M community that run 700-800hp on a stock bottom end of the GTE
Salve, purtroppo non capisco molto bene inglese ma vorrei farti un paio di domande: che turbina hai usato e come posso migliorare la mia toyota? La vorrei portare a 400cv di potenza. Grazie.
Hey man...just wondering how the car is doing...my motor came bk from the machine shop and i asked them to keep the bearing clearances to factory specs and the engine builder opened the clearances up alil and told me the same ( to run 20w50 )...was wondering how yours was holding up...Cause I'm stressed out thinking it's gonna sling a bearing easy.....hope all is well
I have a question on that oil pump spring. Could you do a video or like show a picture somewhere else of how it's put on? I plan to drop my oil pan on my Supra so I wanna do that stuff on it. At the time I just slapped on a new oil pump and called it good but never really knew the concept of "shimming" the oil pump but now I'm hearing this thing about the spring and now I'm interested.
@@TheMrFlyBoy18 typically an aftermarket piston will be for a certain bore size, but the machine shop will need the pistons to properly size the bores. Every piston needs a certain amount of "piston to wall clearance", and this measurement depends on the type of piston used. Forged pistons "grow" more with heat than a cast or hyper piston do, thus requiring more clearance.
The oil issues in my opinion CAN be remedied fully, but it does take some money to do so. The factory system of bleeding excess pressure through the cooler and into the sump, is in my opinion a very poor design. As the factory relief spring fatigues, system pressure drops as a result. As power levels increase, a rise in oil pressure is needed on the 7M to keep the bearings happy. The best option is to delete the factory oil filter housing and replace it with a thermostatic oil cooler unit. This will allow the oil to flow through the cooler when temperature allows the thermostat to open, but doesn't dump it back into the sump. As far as the oil pressure relief valve on the pump itself, just shimming the spring is a bad idea as it leads to coil bind in the spring. Sadly the machined option to add a 2nd spring hasn't been available for some years. I would love to take over this job but I need someone to donate a good pump to me for development. As far as the cylinder head, the alloy used seems to anneal easier than modern heads. The head isn't very rigid when compared with newer units. It can still work, but you need to start with a head that hasn't been overheated. You can send the head in to get it treated and increase its hardnss, but this is something I don't have experience with.
@@mrctuned2844 thank you so much for the advice man! Ive taken on a beater 87 turbo as a project with the r154. I recently had the engine overheat from a hg failure. Ive always planned to rebuild the bottom end with aftermarket internals and im hoping to pull it soon. Im not interested in building the 7m because its cheap per say but more to prove it can be a capable engine. My other question is about the crank. Mine is the earlier 7mgte with the 6m crank. Is there really much reason for me to swap to the 7m
@@TheTankGeo You are welcome! I will be starting to upload videos on modifying the 7M in the next few weeks, just waiting on some better sound equipment for better recording audio. In short, the older 6M crank will be fine for lower hp, lower max RPM setups. With elevated RPM and torque applied to the 6M crank, you'll most likely start to see some whipping and flexing of the crankshaft due to the offset bobweights. The later 7M crank much more closely resembles the 2JZ crank and most later turbo import crankshafts. Some people open up clearances on the mains when using a flexible crank, but this allows the crank to move further away from the centerline and this is detrimental to the balance of the rotating assembly. I can't give you an exact number for hp or RPM that you can push the 6M crank to, but if you plan to lean on the motor a bit, I'd look for a 7M crank.
Hey I was wondering on what spark plugs you are running. I’m considering going a brisk multi spark but unsure as there isn’t much on them, I’d rather not risk my motor on some overly priced plugs that could potentially fail and melt my motor.
I will be doing a rebuild soon. Question, why did you go with the BC single valve springs over stock? Are the OEM springs a weak link in the head? Also on the ring gap, how much did you increase it by? Do you prefer a certain manuf. of pistons, bearing, gaskets, etc. over another? Thanks
Hi Robert, I went with the upgraded springs just in case I ever wanted to go with aftermarket cams, I wouldn't have to change springs then. I also wanted the added buffer due to higher than stock rev limit, and added boost pressure, which effectively reduces intake valve seat pressure. For my ring gaps I used Wiseco specs. I usually run Wiseco pistons, Manley rods, and ACL bearings, however there are many good options out there. If you would like a more detailed build sheet of this engine, email me at mrctuned@gmail.com
@@mrctuned2844 Hey buddy I'm subbing to your channel... I've always being interested in building a 7M and you just gave me motivation... I'll be emailing you for Spec- sheet, hope I'm not over stepping dude
I picked up eagle h beams and Weisco forged pistons for under $1500, add some arp main studs and head studs with good rings and these motors can handle a 1000 hp why cheap out?
It wasn't about "cheaping out", it was about not putting an extra $1,500 into an engine that has very limited aftermarket support. The bottom end can handle a lot, but I found that finding a cylinder head in good enough condition to withstand that much power was not feasible.
@@mrctuned2844 the 7mgte cylinder head can handle the power. A port/polish with valve springs and retainers/cams will support 1000hp no problem. Add a ffim and it’s basically a beast
@@TorontoSupraMan I know the cylinder head can handle the power, I had that exact setup on my 7M. The problem is, you can't make that power on a head thats been annealed, warped, and/or decked. I found out the hard way the head has to be as virgin as possible to handle big power, and finding a good condition head turned out to be much more trouble than just going with a better engine. So thats why I'm doing it. I'm still wanting to create a series on modifying the 7M and good engine modification practices. Just struggle to find the time as I don't have any employees and am very busy. I do appreciate your input!
After receiving tons of email and comments asking about the shim, I tried to find a link for everyone but it seems the guy making them isn't selling them any more
@@mrctuned2844 oh ok. I’ll just use shims and monitor situations with a regular oil pressure gauge. If the pressure is to high I’ll have to reduce shim size
@Manuqtix.Manuqtix that should work. The reason I liked the unit I installed is the shims will prevent the valve from opening fully, so depending on oil viscosity cold oil pressure can get very high. The billet spacer still allowed full valve movement with additional pressure. I've thought about trying to design a new one, just not sure I'd sell enough to make it worth the investment. My brothers own a machine shop.
So i know the shell is an 89 but is the block also that year? If so can you count the casting support ribs inside the block, I'm curious if it's one with additional supports also do you know if it's running 6m crank or a true 7m crank can you also share the head casting # when it comes to that episode
I apologize Matthew, but the engine is now in the car. I havent been able to keep up with videos because I lost the equipment I was using (breakup). Im trying everything I can to get one up tomorrow. It is a true 7M crank, and I dont believe the casting ribs changed throughout the production run on the 7M that went into the Supra.
For someone who doesn’t have a lot of experience with building motors would you suggest building my 7m or buying a 2j and building that? What it be a more reliable and cheaper option for my goal of 600-700 horsepower? I already have a 7mgte engine and I would like to keep it but I’d rather have reliable power with a budget.
That's a great common question Jackson. Answering this all depends on some of your mechanical abilities. Swapping in a 2JZ isn't a simple bolt in affair, and more than likely there will be a fair bit of wiring. You will also have to move some components around or, depending on the model of 2JZ you purchase, may need to buy different parts to make it fit such as the oil pan. Now, if you are able to do these things yourself, the 2JZ is definitely the way to go. The trouble to get it in the car will be worth it as it is a much better designed engine, more reliable, makes more power with less modifications, and more responsive.
Okay, I have taken 3 years of engine performance, wiring, and body repair classes at my high school. I’ve never swapped a different motor into a chassis that it didn’t have out of the factory. I’m thinking since it’s a fairly common swap in the mark3’s there will be enough content on forums for me to do the swap. I just didn’t want to start building the 7m and put $10,000 into the motor and trans and it not meet my expectations. Or would a 1jz be a better option?
Jackson Smith look into 2jz na-t on 7m electrics. A friend of mine has a junk yard 2jzge running on 7m electronics and a 7m standalone making 600hp. He's all in under 5k. That's everything. And hes making 600hp. That's not to say It will Last long term at that power level but a 2jzge can be had for around $700. So if it does go he can just grab another and swap his parts over.
mike stone When the block is sent to the machine shop, you need to also bring the front timing cover. The machinist needs to bolt the cover to the block and deck the block with the cover attatched. If you don't, the cover will sit higher than the block and the head gasket won't seal.
My son and I are building a 89 mke like yours any recommendations for piston ring brands and main ring and cam rings... are build is nothing crazy just a bit more than standard build..if that makes any sens
@@jorgecarrillo3812 Absolutely, Total Seal makes the best rings in the world in most peoples opinion. As far as main and cam "rings" I'm not sure I understand what you mean. If you meant bearings, the camshaft doesn't contain replaceable bearings. Main and rod bearings can be King, ACL, or Clevite.
I also disagree with the decision to not run an oil cooler with the amount of power your trying to build on a stock bottom end , if I can recommend it go with a mishimoto thermostatic sandwich plate that will restrict oil to the cooler until it reaches the desired temp
I've been wanting to build a diy plug and play ms3 for my 89 plus. Don't know all that much about building on other than what's available on diyautotune. I would love to pick your brain sometime
PackMane1419 if you mean the diy bob for the oem harness forget it. I bought it along with the ms3x for my 7m and it's a joke just build a full harness
Better off building a harness from scratch, as the harness is over 25 years old and you would be relying on old wiring. Message me anytime and I'll respond ASAP. I'll be doing a video at some point about wiring harnesses.
@@mrctuned2844 can you tell me the name of the company that has the oil pump spring...i already have one in mine...but i cant seem to find any of my paper work on it...and I'm looking to buy another
good job dude i wrote that first commit befer i watched video after hearing 2j lol but allthat work n sat no lasty long oh forged ross pistons would have helped possibly so why not n please do not say the 680.usd is to much fer a 7m i may have did at your age please no 2j :}
![ละลาย (LALALYE) - DAOU PITTAYA ต้าห์อู๋ พิทยา [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wo6r9TgausI/mqdefault.jpg)
Finally someone building a 7M thank you
jason turpin im building one 2 but I Dont have alot of viewers or money , but i have alot of videos . I just tought no one was interested on them , but i can upload them anytime
:p ive had one for years but yea interest is low ..
@@Camera.Car_
Love to see your vids
Long live the 7m. I have an 88 gte I’ve been wanting to build, but the lack of knowledgeable techs on the area and lack thereof info regarding these older engines makes it difficult. Share any info you can!!
@@Camera.Car_ yes pls
If I remember right a couple guy's from Supraforums were over 800hp on stock 7m internals. I've owned a few Supras over the years. all 7mgte but all I've did was simple bolt ons and I was blown away at how well they respond to mods
Excellent video, 7M is under rated and great to see someone building the stock bottom end to its true potential
As an owner of an 89 suup, i really appreciate you making this video and I look forward to see how this project comes out. Good luck!! 👍
Thank you very much!
That is really AWESOME.i really like it to see supra engine built on.
Hey MRC, I'm going to get into my 7mgte in the near future, any chance you have a build sheet? I'd like to make improvements where I can, so I'm interested in the "custom insert" for the oil pressure relief valve and the oil tube that you used (I looked at driftmotion and couldn't find it). In general though it would be cool to see all of the pieces you opted to install. One last thing, you say that these engines are known to blow their head gaskets - which is obviously a true statement - but once you go to a metal head gasket, new head studs, and most importantly torque the head down properly it should be just as reliable as a Toyota engine. Thanks for giving the 7 a go!
a new head gasket and ARP head bolts. if you want over 500hp I would replace the main bearings but other then that it's a bolt on monster
Just found your channel! Awesome to follow someone how's giving the 7m atleast a chance. Im currently building a forged 7m :) keep up the work!
Thanks very much Tommy!
Thank you for explaining why shimming the oil pump is bad. I always wondered...
Im running the exact same spring in my oil pump...and i bread people trying to bash me on forums...lol. I currently was building my 7mgte until i found some cracks in the block...l liked your video and subscribed..can't Wait till the next upload...good luck
Can someone link me to this upgraded oil pump relief spring?
If I may make a suggestion, don't use that Driftmotion oil pickup tube for two reasons. One It's not rated for oil submersion and could eventually get brittle and rupture. Two with the upgraded oil pump your using the block side fitting doesn't hold enough threads and you run the risk of the fitting coming out under pressure. The part I do recommend however is this one.
www.driftmotion.com/AZ-Performance-7M-Oil-Pump-Pipe-p/dm629.htm
It is a little more expensive but. Very worth the extra money. IJ on supramania does a fantastic job of outlining the issues.
I'm not a 7m guru, but I have been through 3 of them and I'm currently working on my 1st 1jz swap. Good luck with your build and so far I like your videos.
Aaron updated it from a rubber braided hose which was the reason those cases you described occurred, to a pressed crimped teflon hose, therefore those ones his currently using are fine
The new ones are made differently, I've had it on my 7m for 2 years now. Also alittle tid bit the picture used on the dm sight for the hose is my motor lol
@@EditsWithBlur If you guys know Aaron personally, I am disappointed that the photos on Driftmotion.com will not enlarge. Too damn many websites neglect the fact that buyers are visual. Show us something more than an icon sized photo of your product. Not all of us are master mechanics. I buy the parts, my mechanic does the work on my 89 7mgte
Awesome video! Very insightful and the block looks really nice. Good for inspiration!
Great video I am in the process of putting a 7mgte in to a 2wd Toyota pickup. I like the information on the things to fix to increase reliability. Keep up the good work mate.
Thanks Matthew, keep us updated!
Will do. Same to you, keep us updated. I am very interested to see your success with a motor that has a some what bad reputation, But built properly should be a real fun time.
Missed the series.... Glad to be back😁😁😁😁😁😁😁💪💪💪
Opening music is killer.
I'm doing pretty much the exact same build but with Wiseco pistons. Things will get interesting... Thx for the tips!
Nice video! I am aiming for ~350hp in the short term for my build. But this is great! Just subbed
Man someone doing this motor justice just as I was about to shun it 😂
giving the 7m some love , new sub for sure
Great video, lots of real information.
First episode subscribed already..cheers love the series even though it's just beginning...😁😁
Thanks Chris, appreciate it!
Very informative enjoyed this video as im building my 7m...great job
Aprreciate it James, thanks!
Don't forget to plug the hole that goes from the exhaust nr. 6 cylinder port to the back of the head into the EGR cooler. Since I bet you want to eliminate the EGR system. And that causes head gasket failures on the nr.6 cylinder due to the extra heat stress from the EGR cooler.
I hhave an EGR delete plate, not too concerned with the heat issue as I'll be running E85 and EGT's are much lower than gasoline.
I have a 7mgte with oil squirters, pistons bore 40 over, arp head studs hks headhasket,264bc cams I chimmed the oilpump but I made a wide oil pan holds 8qts oil.did the zulu mod on head ,550rc injectors and lexus maf, on e85 just orderd a t61 turbo hopin to make 500hp .And be reliable
zero reason to keep using the airflow meter as any standalone will support MAP. Stock ECU is complete garbage on the 7M when it comes to going for more power
@@lockjawjak I just bought a afc neo they said I can get 500-600 with it ?
@@robgmechanic7509 its possible yes but modern standalone ECUs are just miles ahead of piggybacks, they have so many more features than just fuel and ignition control
Wanting a mk3 so ive been binge watching everything 7M
I hope everything works out for you, I swapping out a N/A 7M for a 1JZGTE next month, I'm not a big 7M fan for obvious reasons, but I love my 89 Supra, she is near flawless when you exclude my bad 7M.
I also am coming from the dsm platform my 2g makes 400+ wheel and I jist sold my 1g drag car to fund the mk3. Unfortunately my fresh built (5k mile) 7m has rod knock and so I'll be building a 1j or 2jz for the supra
Great video thanks mate ...I bought the shimmed daisan pump from drift motion...I might rethink just going with a shimmed pump...
Awesome build!!!! Would you have the steps to replace my came gear tower seals!!!
Great channel. Subscribed
Thank you sir, very much appreciated!
What brand pistons did you use? I have my 7m torn apart right now and all the cast brands look super cheap and scary, makes me want to put wisecos in but I don't want to spend that money.
I spun a rod bearing after 30 minutes due to the oil mods shooting too much oil from the oil squirters and overwhelming the rings. Engine is torn apart and I'm putting Wisecos in this go around, and deleting the squirters.
The block in my car had really bad pitted cylinders and they wouldn't bore out. Found another block with no main caps but mine didn't match. Now I'm using an na block and forged pistons so that makes me feel better that you're getting rid of the squirters.
Don't the squirters help cool the Pistons keep it lubed?
Im wondering if theres a way to fix the piston oiling system problem.
You had your block redecked, so was my 7mgte
The most economical choices you will ever make, is to replace stock cast pistons to forged ones, along with better rods and headgasket.Don´t go using stock parts. Studs will make you rebore with a dummyhead. The cylinders will be square shaped and your rings will leak.
Thank you again for the great info, is there anyway we can get your bearing clearance and ring end gap. Getting ready to do machine work with new parts. Thank you for your time.
Bearing clearances are .003", ring gaps are Wiseco recommended for moderate boost.
Thank you sir for your information and time. I am only shooting for 300-350hp with full RELIABILITY from lightening, balancing and blue printing in a vehicle weighing 2300-2500lbs. Any tips and info you have for fixing Achilles heels on the 7m is much appreciated. Thank you again for you response. Can't wait to see more on Your build. Keep the good info coming.
One more question for you. Where can I acquire the machined aluminum insert for the oil pump to properly raise the oil pressure, as for I would like to do it correctly. Just curious if that is an off the shelf part or a custom part that you had made. Thanks again
How essential is piston cooling/squirters for a street engine? I can see why it would not be for 1/4 mile engine build. I am currently planning to do a full build on a GE. Should I get a GTE instead?
I would build a GTE if you can, the oil squirters really help on cooling especially during boost. Also the gte come with lower compression stock pistons and if I’m not mistaken only the gte has factory forged rods.
I ended up removing the oil squirters due to the poor design of the factory squirters. I am now running forged pistons, which do NOT need squirters. Oil piston squirters are more useful on larger diameter pistons than the 7M. Both engines have the same rods, the GE is without the squirters and has a higher compression ratio compared to the GTE, which is fine if you plan to run an ethanol blend fuel.
Btw, I am now running a GE late model crankshaft and Eagle rods/Wiseco pistons with no squirters after a rod bearing failure due to lack of lubrication. Be careful when using cast pistons that have oil ring gas ports as the squirters will create huge oil consumption problems and in my case dropped the oil level enough to run the sump dry.
Also what kind of hp are you trying to achieve? There’s a decent amount of people in the 7M community that run 700-800hp on a stock bottom end of the GTE
@@dynahack505 Now that I'm running forged internals, I would like to be able to hit 4 digits with a new turbo, or close to it
Thanks Man
Salve, purtroppo non capisco molto bene inglese ma vorrei farti un paio di domande: che turbina hai usato e come posso migliorare la mia toyota? La vorrei portare a 400cv di potenza. Grazie.
Ohh men that picture on the thumbnail almost got me I though it was A60.
Hey man...just wondering how the car is doing...my motor came bk from the machine shop and i asked them to keep the bearing clearances to factory specs and the engine builder opened the clearances up alil and told me the same ( to run 20w50 )...was wondering how yours was holding up...Cause I'm stressed out thinking it's gonna sling a bearing easy.....hope all is well
I have a question on that oil pump spring. Could you do a video or like show a picture somewhere else of how it's put on? I plan to drop my oil pan on my Supra so I wanna do that stuff on it. At the time I just slapped on a new oil pump and called it good but never really knew the concept of "shimming" the oil pump but now I'm hearing this thing about the spring and now I'm interested.
I apologize but the engine is in the car now. Go to Ebay and do a search, the modification is on there for 20 bucks.
will the chim on oil pump be ok long as i custom make my oil pan wide for more oil
Did you purchase or make the machined aluminum insert? Where could I find one ?
Can you explain what i should do to a 7MGTE to make it atleast reliable and perhaps get to 500hp overtime?
Did you do the yolo mod on the cylinder head ?
I need help with my 7m Gte car has been standing for Three year now
Does bore mean the circle area where the piston slides up and down from?
Technically that's called the cylinder, but we refer to the measurement of the cylinder as the "bore" or "bore size".
@@mrctuned2844 thank you. I learned something new. So would the piston also match the bore size as well?
@@TheMrFlyBoy18 typically an aftermarket piston will be for a certain bore size, but the machine shop will need the pistons to properly size the bores. Every piston needs a certain amount of "piston to wall clearance", and this measurement depends on the type of piston used. Forged pistons "grow" more with heat than a cast or hyper piston do, thus requiring more clearance.
@@mrctuned2844 thank you for the knowledge 🙏🏾 its gonna help me when I build my ej257 on my hawkeye
Hey id just like to ask what issues cant be remedied on the 7m? I thought the head and oil system issues could be fully remedied
The oil issues in my opinion CAN be remedied fully, but it does take some money to do so. The factory system of bleeding excess pressure through the cooler and into the sump, is in my opinion a very poor design. As the factory relief spring fatigues, system pressure drops as a result. As power levels increase, a rise in oil pressure is needed on the 7M to keep the bearings happy. The best option is to delete the factory oil filter housing and replace it with a thermostatic oil cooler unit. This will allow the oil to flow through the cooler when temperature allows the thermostat to open, but doesn't dump it back into the sump. As far as the oil pressure relief valve on the pump itself, just shimming the spring is a bad idea as it leads to coil bind in the spring. Sadly the machined option to add a 2nd spring hasn't been available for some years. I would love to take over this job but I need someone to donate a good pump to me for development. As far as the cylinder head, the alloy used seems to anneal easier than modern heads. The head isn't very rigid when compared with newer units. It can still work, but you need to start with a head that hasn't been overheated. You can send the head in to get it treated and increase its hardnss, but this is something I don't have experience with.
@@mrctuned2844 thank you so much for the advice man! Ive taken on a beater 87 turbo as a project with the r154. I recently had the engine overheat from a hg failure. Ive always planned to rebuild the bottom end with aftermarket internals and im hoping to pull it soon. Im not interested in building the 7m because its cheap per say but more to prove it can be a capable engine. My other question is about the crank. Mine is the earlier 7mgte with the 6m crank. Is there really much reason for me to swap to the 7m
7m crank on the late model engines*
@@TheTankGeo You are welcome! I will be starting to upload videos on modifying the 7M in the next few weeks, just waiting on some better sound equipment for better recording audio. In short, the older 6M crank will be fine for lower hp, lower max RPM setups. With elevated RPM and torque applied to the 6M crank, you'll most likely start to see some whipping and flexing of the crankshaft due to the offset bobweights. The later 7M crank much more closely resembles the 2JZ crank and most later turbo import crankshafts. Some people open up clearances on the mains when using a flexible crank, but this allows the crank to move further away from the centerline and this is detrimental to the balance of the rotating assembly. I can't give you an exact number for hp or RPM that you can push the 6M crank to, but if you plan to lean on the motor a bit, I'd look for a 7M crank.
@@mrctuned2844 thanks again man. Ive got a couple of suspension upgrades inbound soon. Are you deleting anything from the engine bay on this build?
Hey I was wondering on what spark plugs you are running. I’m considering going a brisk multi spark but unsure as there isn’t much on them, I’d rather not risk my motor on some overly priced plugs that could potentially fail and melt my motor.
Just the factory plugs but one step colder does great.
I will be doing a rebuild soon. Question, why did you go with the BC single valve springs over stock? Are the OEM springs a weak link in the head? Also on the ring gap, how much did you increase it by? Do you prefer a certain manuf. of pistons, bearing, gaskets, etc. over another?
Thanks
Hi Robert, I went with the upgraded springs just in case I ever wanted to go with aftermarket cams, I wouldn't have to change springs then. I also wanted the added buffer due to higher than stock rev limit, and added boost pressure, which effectively reduces intake valve seat pressure. For my ring gaps I used Wiseco specs. I usually run Wiseco pistons, Manley rods, and ACL bearings, however there are many good options out there. If you would like a more detailed build sheet of this engine, email me at mrctuned@gmail.com
@@mrctuned2844 Hey buddy I'm subbing to your channel... I've always being interested in building a 7M and you just gave me motivation... I'll be emailing you for Spec- sheet, hope I'm not over stepping dude
@@hajileserpud9539 Not a problem, feel free to send me a message!
I picked up eagle h beams and Weisco forged pistons for under $1500, add some arp main studs and head studs with good rings and these motors can handle a 1000 hp why cheap out?
It wasn't about "cheaping out", it was about not putting an extra $1,500 into an engine that has very limited aftermarket support. The bottom end can handle a lot, but I found that finding a cylinder head in good enough condition to withstand that much power was not feasible.
@@mrctuned2844 the 7mgte cylinder head can handle the power. A port/polish with valve springs and retainers/cams will support 1000hp no problem. Add a ffim and it’s basically a beast
@@TorontoSupraMan I know the cylinder head can handle the power, I had that exact setup on my 7M. The problem is, you can't make that power on a head thats been annealed, warped, and/or decked. I found out the hard way the head has to be as virgin as possible to handle big power, and finding a good condition head turned out to be much more trouble than just going with a better engine. So thats why I'm doing it. I'm still wanting to create a series on modifying the 7M and good engine modification practices. Just struggle to find the time as I don't have any employees and am very busy. I do appreciate your input!
Where can we get the oil pump extra spring that you mentioned? My 7M isnt shimmed yet, so I figured Id do it right and do what youre doing.
After receiving tons of email and comments asking about the shim, I tried to find a link for everyone but it seems the guy making them isn't selling them any more
@@mrctuned2844 Okay, thank you anyways! We need some updates on the car and how its doing. :)
@@mosertech3134 I definitely need to do that. The car is running and driving now
@@mrctuned2844 Sweet man, hopefully my mx83 will be running in less than 2 months
9:57
This oil pump insert thing?
What is it exactly, how does it look like?
It looks like a billet aluminum stepped spacer but they don't make it anymore
@@mrctuned2844 oh ok. I’ll just use shims and monitor situations with a regular oil pressure gauge.
If the pressure is to high I’ll have to reduce shim size
@Manuqtix.Manuqtix that should work. The reason I liked the unit I installed is the shims will prevent the valve from opening fully, so depending on oil viscosity cold oil pressure can get very high. The billet spacer still allowed full valve movement with additional pressure. I've thought about trying to design a new one, just not sure I'd sell enough to make it worth the investment. My brothers own a machine shop.
with how fast it hit 600 in its current form 1000 isn't too far off or so should i say
So i know the shell is an 89 but is the block also that year? If so can you count the casting support ribs inside the block, I'm curious if it's one with additional supports also do you know if it's running 6m crank or a true 7m crank can you also share the head casting # when it comes to that episode
I apologize Matthew, but the engine is now in the car. I havent been able to keep up with videos because I lost the equipment I was using (breakup). Im trying everything I can to get one up tomorrow. It is a true 7M crank, and I dont believe the casting ribs changed throughout the production run on the 7M that went into the Supra.
Are you in the UK?
What is your accent? American/Aussie?
I'm actually from North Dakota, and use this accent on my videos. Not sire if I should continue this trend or not...
hey can you link the link you used instead of shims, as well as size of your an lines
They don't sell the pump upgrade anymore unfortunately. The AN size for the oil pump is a -8
For someone who doesn’t have a lot of experience with building motors would you suggest building my 7m or buying a 2j and building that? What it be a more reliable and cheaper option for my goal of 600-700 horsepower? I already have a 7mgte engine and I would like to keep it but I’d rather have reliable power with a budget.
That's a great common question Jackson. Answering this all depends on some of your mechanical abilities. Swapping in a 2JZ isn't a simple bolt in affair, and more than likely there will be a fair bit of wiring. You will also have to move some components around or, depending on the model of 2JZ you purchase, may need to buy different parts to make it fit such as the oil pan. Now, if you are able to do these things yourself, the 2JZ is definitely the way to go. The trouble to get it in the car will be worth it as it is a much better designed engine, more reliable, makes more power with less modifications, and more responsive.
Okay, I have taken 3 years of engine performance, wiring, and body repair classes at my high school. I’ve never swapped a different motor into a chassis that it didn’t have out of the factory. I’m thinking since it’s a fairly common swap in the mark3’s there will be enough content on forums for me to do the swap. I just didn’t want to start building the 7m and put $10,000 into the motor and trans and it not meet my expectations. Or would a 1jz be a better option?
Jackson Smith look into 2jz na-t on 7m electrics. A friend of mine has a junk yard 2jzge running on 7m electronics and a 7m standalone making 600hp. He's all in under 5k. That's everything. And hes making 600hp. That's not to say It will Last long term at that power level but a 2jzge can be had for around $700. So if it does go he can just grab another and swap his parts over.
Super subscribed.
Thanks Daniel, appreciate it very much!
600 horsepower ain’t bad I’d like to hear how that shit sounds 😂
Can you explain the timing cover machining?
mike stone When the block is sent to the machine shop, you need to also bring the front timing cover. The machinist needs to bolt the cover to the block and deck the block with the cover attatched. If you don't, the cover will sit higher than the block and the head gasket won't seal.
I owned two 7mgte's and they are so good until they quit.
If youd like I can send you some pics of my forward facing intake manifold for inspiration
Appreciate it JDM Viking, but I finished the intake last weekend. been trying to get a video up but I had to use all different equipment for filming.
JDM Viking could you send me some pictures of your forward facing intake manifold? Greatly appreciate
subscribed
Thank you sir! It is much appreciated!
Do you sell the part for the oil pump
Unfortunately no, and it hadn't been available for some time now
Do you sell that part
@@jorgecarrillo3812 No I do not.
My son and I are building a 89 mke like yours any recommendations for piston ring brands and main ring and cam rings... are build is nothing crazy just a bit more than standard build..if that makes any sens
@@jorgecarrillo3812 Absolutely, Total Seal makes the best rings in the world in most peoples opinion. As far as main and cam "rings" I'm not sure I understand what you mean. If you meant bearings, the camshaft doesn't contain replaceable bearings. Main and rod bearings can be King, ACL, or Clevite.
I also disagree with the decision to not run an oil cooler with the amount of power your trying to build on a stock bottom end , if I can recommend it go with a mishimoto thermostatic sandwich plate that will restrict oil to the cooler until it reaches the desired temp
I have decided to run one now, going with a B&M super cooler.
скидывай по больше видосов. очень уж редкий мотор
;) 7M eh? Let me know if you need some help .. ive built a few
God i wish i knew what i was doing
I've been wanting to build a diy plug and play ms3 for my 89 plus. Don't know all that much about building on other than what's available on diyautotune. I would love to pick your brain sometime
PackMane1419 if you mean the diy bob for the oem harness forget it. I bought it along with the ms3x for my 7m and it's a joke just build a full harness
Better off building a harness from scratch, as the harness is over 25 years old and you would be relying on old wiring. Message me anytime and I'll respond ASAP. I'll be doing a video at some point about wiring harnesses.
молодец
IDK why you would tear it all the way down , do all that and not even drop in forged pistons or rods.
For 600 horsepower I wouldn’t even mind not having 1000 horses it’s overrated but personally it’s a great number to fit this motor 😂
Someone’s a little gassy 13:35 😂
That was my girlfriend filming.... lol
@@mrctuned2844 can you tell me the name of the company that has the oil pump spring...i already have one in mine...but i cant seem to find any of my paper work on it...and I'm looking to buy another
why is this channel dead?
Just been too busy to make any more, but planning to make one in the next couple weeks.
MRC Tuned can’t wait! I have an old 89 Supra turbo and is on about the same path your building your too
the sky is the limit so why not send a rod to the moon for good measure haha im playing im playing
good job dude i wrote that first commit befer i watched video after hearing 2j lol but allthat work n sat no lasty long oh forged ross pistons would have helped possibly so why not n please do not say the 680.usd is to much fer a 7m i may have did at your age please no 2j :}