Dude you rock, I just replaced the strut and my sterring was messed up. I thought I had did something wrong. When i checked this joint, it was clearly the problem. All fixed. Thanks for the video
Just for the record so others don't make my mistake... Audi does NOT sell these individual u-joints, they sell the whole intermediate steering shaft assembly for about $400 at the dealership. I did some research to find just the u-joint and bought one off ebay that was "supposed to fit". Well, it was too small. After pulling this intermediate shaft assembly out, I was able to get a better look and see that these u-joints aren't meant to be changed as they have small protective caps & notches pressed in on the ends to prevent removal. After some cutting, drilling, pressing I was still able to remove the u-joint and then realized the one I purchased was too small. At that point after a few hours of work I said f-it, and just bought the full shaft assembly from a dealership because I didn't have time to search & find & wait for another u-joint to arrive and cross my fingers it would fit since there's no specs I could find anywhere for the actual size. So unless you know the actual size u-joint needed and have a press for removing & installing, save yourself the time and just buy the full assembly. FYI I did see that places like AutoZone & O'Reilly sell an aftermarket shaft assembly for about $300. But for an extra $100 you can get the real OEM assembly and know if fits so that's the route I went with. I hope this helps others as the video is very deceiving. At least tell everyone the exact size or part number u-joint you're using in case people want to try and replace it themselves.
Did the new shaft offer significantly lighter steering when turning lock to lock while stationary? I know German cars usually have a bit heavier steering but I’m curious if the shaft assembly is what determines how light or heavy the turning of the steering will be.
@@EJR20 if I remember correctly, when my shaft went bad it was very hard to turn in either 1 or both directions. It was almost like not having power steering. It seemed like when it went bad, it was bad very quickly in a matter of a couple days. I didn’t notice it slowly getting worse over weeks and months, if that makes sense. Once replaced, it was back to normal and super easy to turn. I’ve never noticed my Audi being “harder” to turn than my other cars.
I have S4 and same problem will do the same and let's see hope it works but some people said it's the pump problem thanks anyway mate 👍 very well explained
I'm sorry I don't have access to my parts program right now. I would say call your local dealer and order it from them, In the meantime try spraying it with a penetrating oil and see if it improves
use two bungy's one around the brake pedal, and the other around the steering wheel and then hook them together, it doest matter if your steering wheel moves from left to right a little, do your repair and take them off when your done.
Hello, i drive an Audi q5 2015 and i have the same problem. The steering wheel started to feel stiff when it got cold (winter), i don’t know if it’s a coincidence or not. Anyways, yesterday i went to the gas station and fueled up the car, after turning the car on to leave the gas station, the steering wheel felt absolutely normal, 0 stiffness, it felt brand new. However, the next day the problem came back, what is the reason behind this?
That is kind of strange that it would come and go like that, I would remove the steering shaft at the lower u joint and check for stiffness in the joint before doing anything else
I would have to check, if you are unsure if this is the problem you are experiencing removing the pinch bolt at the bottom of the shaft and messing with the u joint will give you the answer
Hi there. I have an s3 8p and the car was standing for two years. Now I have it running again. Car starts but the steering doesn't turn at all. How do I fix it. It has a orange steering light
I have a 2013 Audi a4 and the steering dosent bind but when i turn the steering wheel all the way to one side it throw codes and also turns on the yellow warning then the do not drive red then there’s times that the steering is fine and wont turn on any lights at all i already disconnected the module board connected to the bottom of the steering rack and found one of the connectors had corrosion and cleaned it the best i could with what i had and nothing happen but if the car sits for a day or two the steering is back to normal and ideas what it could be???
Wasn’t able to get any codes when i check yes light was on but i did have the codes from the first scan stored 00457, u111100, 01309, 00384, 03041, u14000, p045600 this where the codes
So i have audi a5 tfsi quoatro 2.0L 2010 coupe i have a stif stering im driving like that over a year now i have changed stering pump first time it didi t work at all second time i bought difrent one little bit more expensive it worked for about one month already lost a lot of money then i bought a second hand stering rack still nothing changed i love the car but stering is very hard especialy when parking when i start my car in the morning stering whell works fine for about 1 minute then it become stiff again when i drive in higway its not to bad but when i need to park the car its very difucult any ideas what should i do is it posible the stering wheel sensor coould be responsible for it or something i lost any hope now and it cost me a lot but do want to fixe the sterring wheel back to normal and on high rews sterimg whell works
I drove through a puddle maybe a foot deep of water, and 10 minutes after I got the warning light and my steering system just fried. Went to the dealer to repair it they said it cost $4 to $5,000. Even though the vehicle says Quattro it's a problem because the rack is electronic and it fries it when it goes through water
I actually don't think I've seen that before. I've seen a lot of audis and vw with electric steering racks to through high water too, weirdness. That's a lot of money
@@EuropeanAutoRepair I have the 2015 QQ5 with a 3.0 engine, The rock burnt out with the 1st deep water I took it in. When I say deep was over 6" between 6" to under 1'
Ever come across the steering to be perfect but red power steering light won’t clear from dash have fault code C10AC07 much help would be appreciated thanks
Twice a year (at tire change time) I’ll spray that that lower U-joint with a penetrating lubricant to avoid this issue as I was also experience some steering resistance. 2014 A4
If the problem is the same as what I described in this video you have to replace the steering shaft that connects the steering column to the steering rack. The problem is the u joint on the steering shaft has failed
How can it be a high book time ? dealer level flat rate mechanic here looks to be .3 hr diagnostic with about 1 hour tops replacement and that is giving a twice the estimate of what GM would pay GM would give you .3 hours total time about what they pay to do an oil change so 1.3 hours total would be a massive improvement over GM pricing (take note gm pricing is designed to fuck over the dealer mechanic all of the engineering they do each year is to make trim panels impossible to remove without breaking retaining clips that they now mold into the panels so you gotta buy a $800 door panel to fix a window regulator. They want owners to break things left and right if they attempt to fix their own cars. Been that way for 30 years.
I feel your pain man, that job has a high book time and the the next pays nothing and takes all day, the people that come up with this stuff are messed up
Dude you rock, I just replaced the strut and my sterring was messed up. I thought I had did something wrong. When i checked this joint, it was clearly the problem. All fixed. Thanks for the video
So happy it helped!
Nice! What did you do @MrJThomps22 ? How did you fix the joint? Tks!
Just for the record so others don't make my mistake... Audi does NOT sell these individual u-joints, they sell the whole intermediate steering shaft assembly for about $400 at the dealership. I did some research to find just the u-joint and bought one off ebay that was "supposed to fit". Well, it was too small. After pulling this intermediate shaft assembly out, I was able to get a better look and see that these u-joints aren't meant to be changed as they have small protective caps & notches pressed in on the ends to prevent removal. After some cutting, drilling, pressing I was still able to remove the u-joint and then realized the one I purchased was too small. At that point after a few hours of work I said f-it, and just bought the full shaft assembly from a dealership because I didn't have time to search & find & wait for another u-joint to arrive and cross my fingers it would fit since there's no specs I could find anywhere for the actual size. So unless you know the actual size u-joint needed and have a press for removing & installing, save yourself the time and just buy the full assembly. FYI I did see that places like AutoZone & O'Reilly sell an aftermarket shaft assembly for about $300. But for an extra $100 you can get the real OEM assembly and know if fits so that's the route I went with. I hope this helps others as the video is very deceiving. At least tell everyone the exact size or part number u-joint you're using in case people want to try and replace it themselves.
Did the new shaft offer significantly lighter steering when turning lock to lock while stationary? I know German cars usually have a bit heavier steering but I’m curious if the shaft assembly is what determines how light or heavy the turning of the steering will be.
@@EJR20 if I remember correctly, when my shaft went bad it was very hard to turn in either 1 or both directions. It was almost like not having power steering. It seemed like when it went bad, it was bad very quickly in a matter of a couple days. I didn’t notice it slowly getting worse over weeks and months, if that makes sense. Once replaced, it was back to normal and super easy to turn. I’ve never noticed my Audi being “harder” to turn than my other cars.
I have S4 and same problem will do the same and let's see hope it works but some people said it's the pump problem thanks anyway mate 👍 very well explained
I lubricate them with rust check two times a year, and I ovoid this costly repair, but great video .....
Hello Nick, did you just lubricate the U-joint..If so what did you use to lubricate?
@@AtOneInChrist I use the RED spray can from “rust check” I works really good.
@@nicolasboukas6491 Oh thanks 😊 The dealership just gave me an estimate of $2500 to replace the rack..
Dude! You should make a video.
@@AtOneInChrist sorry I didn’t know how to reply, use rust check rattle can, once a year , and it will never jam.
Thanks 🙏🏾 for this video had the same problem with my q5 easy fix mechanic was trying to change $2400 🤦🏿♂️
Dang, no problem man, happy it helped you out
I'm going through this now too and was quoted about the same... What did you end up paying?
Do you have the part number for the new part? I have this issue and it's textbook based on your description.
I'm sorry I don't have access to my parts program right now. I would say call your local dealer and order it from them, In the meantime try spraying it with a penetrating oil and see if it improves
Thank you for sharing. Very appreciated for your time. Have a great day.
hi would you please tell me how you luck the steering well before you start the job ?
If you remove the key with the car in park the column will lock itself. Give it a little wiggle to check
use two bungy's one around the brake pedal, and the other around the steering wheel and then hook them together, it doest matter if your steering wheel moves from left to right a little, do your repair and take them off when your done.
Would this problem cause play in the steering?
Usually not but if the u joint was bad enough it could
I have some play in steering ,did you solve it ? I think i need to replace that joint
Hello, i drive an Audi q5 2015 and i have the same problem. The steering wheel started to feel stiff when it got cold (winter), i don’t know if it’s a coincidence or not. Anyways, yesterday i went to the gas station and fueled up the car, after turning the car on to leave the gas station, the steering wheel felt absolutely normal, 0 stiffness, it felt brand new. However, the next day the problem came back, what is the reason behind this?
That is kind of strange that it would come and go like that, I would remove the steering shaft at the lower u joint and check for stiffness in the joint before doing anything else
My cars doing this too did you figure out what it was?
? Did you solve the problem and how?
Does this also apply to audi a5? Mines just started ramdomly going really stiff then loose again. I have dynamic steering also.
Likely you have the same thing going on
@EuropeanAutoRepair will the a4 one fit the a5? I can't find one for an a5
@JR19k I’m not sure about that off hand
Does changing the rack solves the problem?
Nope! The problem is the lower u joint on the intermediate shaft.
What is the year
Would this make the power steering pump to whine ?
Nope, is the fluid level low?
Hey does this apply to 2017 audi a4 as well?
I would have to check, if you are unsure if this is the problem you are experiencing removing the pinch bolt at the bottom of the shaft and messing with the u joint will give you the answer
Hi there. I have an s3 8p and the car was standing for two years. Now I have it running again. Car starts but the steering doesn't turn at all. How do I fix it. It has a orange steering light
I would scan it first and see what you have for faults
How long can you drive with the car if it has this problem. Can it do some major damage if it's not fixef
I’ve never seen them fail in a such a way where it actually separated, just they get very stiff and steering becomes difficult
What tool is that you used and bolt size ?
10mm triple square 3/8 drive bit
I have a 2013 Audi a4 and the steering dosent bind but when i turn the steering wheel all the way to one side it throw codes and also turns on the yellow warning then the do not drive red then there’s times that the steering is fine and wont turn on any lights at all i already disconnected the module board connected to the bottom of the steering rack and found one of the connectors had corrosion and cleaned it the best i could with what i had and nothing happen but if the car sits for a day or two the steering is back to normal and ideas what it could be???
Have you scanned for faults yet? That sounds like a bit of a unusual problem
@@EuropeanAutoRepairI have but it’s been some time when I have time to get to the car ill scan and send the codes
@braulioepaez1862 let me know
Wasn’t able to get any codes when i check yes light was on but i did have the codes from the first scan stored 00457, u111100, 01309, 00384, 03041, u14000, p045600 this where the codes
??
So i have audi a5 tfsi quoatro 2.0L 2010 coupe i have a stif stering im driving like that over a year now i have changed stering pump first time it didi t work at all second time i bought difrent one little bit more expensive it worked for about one month already lost a lot of money then i bought a second hand stering rack still nothing changed i love the car but stering is very hard especialy when parking when i start my car in the morning stering whell works fine for about 1 minute then it become stiff again when i drive in higway its not to bad but when i need to park the car its very difucult any ideas what should i do is it posible the stering wheel sensor coould be responsible for it or something i lost any hope now and it cost me a lot but do want to fixe the sterring wheel back to normal and on high rews sterimg whell works
So you have already checked the ujoint on the steering shaft closest to the steering rack and it was free in both directions?
Thank you for this !
I drove through a puddle maybe a foot deep of water, and 10 minutes after I got the warning light and my steering system just fried. Went to the dealer to repair it they said it cost $4 to $5,000. Even though the vehicle says Quattro it's a problem because the rack is electronic and it fries it when it goes through water
I actually don't think I've seen that before. I've seen a lot of audis and vw with electric steering racks to through high water too, weirdness. That's a lot of money
@@EuropeanAutoRepair I have the 2015 QQ5 with a 3.0 engine, The rock burnt out with the 1st deep water I took it in. When I say deep was over 6" between 6" to under 1'
@@lvboats Having the same issue after going through a puddle. Audi told me there is no way to prevent this issue if one went through a puddle. mad!
@@wallybank9792 I wouldn't tell you how I got it finally fixed, My insurance company covered it thank God..... All I paid is a $500 deductible....
FYI use the barring grease works better then the WD 40
How much is the job ?
A couple hours labor at the most, not sure on parts pricing
Ever come across the steering to be perfect but red power steering light won’t clear from dash have fault code C10AC07 much help would be appreciated thanks
Might be a software update related to that fault. I'll check with your local dealer
@@EuropeanAutoRepair thanks that would be great !!
Twice a year (at tire change time) I’ll spray that that lower U-joint with a penetrating lubricant to avoid this issue as I was also experience some steering resistance. 2014 A4
Good call
Could i know what lubricant ?
@@robertorivera5019 I use silicone lube spray
Hello Im from Poland, please write me in the comment how to fix it, because I don't know English so well to understand what you say. Thanks greetings
If the problem is the same as what I described in this video you have to replace the steering shaft that connects the steering column to the steering rack. The problem is the u joint on the steering shaft has failed
@@EuropeanAutoRepair Thank you, nice day :)
My J500 on the rack went. Replaced it but my steering wheel turn in either direction. Any clues why?
It wont turn in either direction
Does it have no basic settings, coding faults?
Awesome thank you.
Thank you!
Can you fix this by just spraying wd40 on it?
Penetrating oil may temporarily improve the steering feel, will not resolve the issue
How can it be a high book time ? dealer level flat rate mechanic here looks to be .3 hr diagnostic with about 1 hour tops replacement and that is giving a twice the estimate of what GM would pay GM would give you .3 hours total time about what they pay to do an oil change so 1.3 hours total would be a massive improvement over GM pricing (take note gm pricing is designed to fuck over the dealer mechanic all of the engineering they do each year is to make trim panels impossible to remove without breaking retaining clips that they now mold into the panels so you gotta buy a $800 door panel to fix a window regulator. They want owners to break things left and right if they attempt to fix their own cars. Been that way for 30 years.
I feel your pain man, that job has a high book time and the the next pays nothing and takes all day, the people that come up with this stuff are messed up
Do what you didn't do it so we can see...
How much do you think a mechanic will charge me for doing this?
I’m guessing 300-500$ labor